Thanks for a great repair video. You saved me about $5,000. Mercedes wanted to sell me an entire fuel injection pump. They told me that the copper crush gaskets and o-rings were only available for the European models. It took a bit of outage on my part for them to sell me the parts after I pointed out that the European and American injector pumps had the same serial number. Reluctantly, they sold me the o-rings and crush gaskets for the high price of $30.00. So, I fixed the problem for $30 instead of $5,000. Thanks to your video.
Thank you brother! I have been able to refurbish my entire fuel system and this was the last part of the job. I appreciate your detailed explanations and friendly attitude!
Great video, thanks. I just did the job today on my Ssangyong Musso (Mercedes 5 cylinder 602 engine) and it all went well. A few comments: 1. I noticed you had the intake manifold removed. I didn't want to replace the gasket so I tried without removing the manifold, and it was all fine. I needed a universal joint link to use my torque wrench but everything else was easy enough to do under the manifold. 2. On two cylinders I found that the copper washer came out with the valve body. This happened on the first cylinder I did, and I spent some time trying to remove what I thought was the washer. Fortunately I don't think I did any damage but I was glad when I finally found the washer. 3. Before I did the job I was having trouble with my engine not only leaking fuel (vegetable oil in my case!) but air getting into the fuel line whenever I stopped the engine for more than about 10 minutes, which meant lots of cranking every time I started the engine. I could see bubbles of air rising to the fuel filter through the injection pump return line. I had thought that the air must be entering via leaks in the fuel lines, but apparently it was through the injection valves because that problem now seems to be solved too!
Hi there. I am about to do this job on 3 ssangyong Musso cars which we run on waste vegetable oil and diesel blended. I am trying to find the specifications for the o-rings and copper washers. Did you use buna/nitrile o-rings for the vegetable oil?
@@NaughtyGoatFarm I just ordered the parts from my local Mercedes dealer. Mercedes are great like that - no fuss and the parts are pretty cheap. No leaks after almost 3 years.
Nice video, and I agree with you 100% that cleanliness is a priority when working on this part of the injection pump. The correct description of the part that contains the rubber sealing o-ring is delivery valve holder and not delivery valve like you said. The copper sealing washer is seating on top of the delivery valve as shown on your video and nothing to worry about also when you accidentally move or even remove the whole delivery valve when renewing copper sealing washer.The fuel delivery adjustment is made by altering the position of plunger inside the barrel and no mechanical adjustment can be made on the delivery valve. With everything back together the way it was before and with the new delivery valve copper sealing washer and delivery valve holder sealing o-ring plus the correct tightening torque of the delivery valve holder you can confidently say that its a job well done. Thank you so much for making this very informative video and all the best in the future.
I can honesty say that if it not for this video my car would now be in the scrap yard.#6 hardline cracked. Looked pretty simple until I touched the CVC plumbing and it crumbled . First I tried it without removing the manifold. Don't even try. Finally got the Mani off and replaced the hardline. All the CVC plumbing is connected via black silicon. Did not know I could run engine without manifold. Spent months reaching under and realigning the hardline. It was the delivery valves. Did it this weekend. Without this video I was ready to pull the trigger on a Toyota Lexus ct200h. The market is not good for buying at present and I wanted to fix my Mercedes. Thank you very much. I would like to post links to where I got the parts. They are not affiliate links. I saw a lot of people asking where to buy the supplies. Thanks again Chemical-Resistant Viton® Fluoroelastomer O-Ring, 2 mm Wide, 15 mm ID www.mcmaster.com/9263K299 for delivery valve Bosch Fuel Injector Seal; Copper Washer At Injector Nozzle Holder; 9x13mm P/N: 0049974540. From AutohauseAz Socket from Amazon Pt number B07XJ2DQWN under $10
Understanding that this video is 8 years old, thank you for the awesome information! I am about to perform this job on my 1993 300D 2.5 Turbo (OM602) and this video was critical to my success. The first part of the job is to purchase the O-rings, crush washers, and new gaskets for the intake, then remove the intake and numerous miscellaneous parts; the second part is to carefully perform this job; lastly, reassemble the intake and miscellaneous parts, paying close attention to whether or not the intake needs a proper cleaning prior to full reassembly. Also inspect the EGR valve and intake butterfly for build-up.
Great video. Just a few comments....I just replaced these on a 93 300D 124.602. It’s an easy job. You don’t need to pull the manifold. Use a 1/2 Universal Joint with an extension to get under the metal fuel lines....BE VERY careful to keep it clean, as he said. As you pull the delivery injector, be VERY careful. Spin it and lift it straight off of the spring. I used medical surgical tools....o-ring it and torque to specs. When you re-attach the main delivery line, be very careful....use your hand and move the line to the injector...Do not crank down on it with 14mm. Great video! And spot on!
Hello Sir, i really love Your Teaching Video about changing the seals of the injektor pump valve... Tomorrow i have to Do this work on my own... Aß im Not a Mechanik, thanks a 1000 times for showing the right way of doing IT
Thank you su much Sir!!!... I glad to saw your fantastic video because I have two Mercedes Diesel engines with this system Inyection Pump that need to repair and change this things!!... Best regards for you and all your people from Santiago of Chile, South America!... God bles you!!
Awesome thank you this helped me a lot as I had to do this procedure on my 2.9 - 5 cylinder engine. However, what helped me with the starting difficulty, I injected some diesel into the system with a syringe and a short pipe into the outlet pipe of the fuel filter that goes into the pump. A few squirts at the time and one can see the air bubbles coming out until the pipe is full. Ensure that the new fuel filter is full, fasten it and crank the engine. It took me 4 attempts and the engine started on the 5th attempt. I hope that this can help someone as well.
Thank you so much. I just replaced all 5 on my 1995 w202 c250d na. Bought the socket and the 2mm viton o rings and copper washers. Job took me about 90 mins. Very surgical procedure.
Thanks for the reply. I've tried to retightened it but no luck. The culprit was that the start of the pipe which has a ball shaped end at the diesel pump had a very fine crack on it thus had to replace that entire pipe. Welding the crack Is not guaranteed. Just thought I share my adventure with you and all your subscribers. Thanks again. Cheers!
Great videos you make, very good information. I chainged these seals om my 1993 om603 3,5L and i removed the valves you said not to touch. The engine will run again. But we had to crank it for like 20 min. :P
Be careful when removing the copper washer, the barrel the delivery valve sits on and if it lifts up and turns a mm it will jam itself and push the alignment pin when you torque the DV holders down. It happened to me but I was able to free up the barrel and push the pin back to normal
This is a great video ! Wish I had watched it before doing this same job last Sunday on my 1991 300d 2.5 turbo. I know to leave everything below the copper washers alone however accidents happen. On the last valve, for the No 1 cylinder, the copper washer dropped between the barrell and the housing and i had to fish it out. The barrel got turned a little sideways during this. It appeared fine and I put it all back together. The engine runs fine however now there is an issue with the shut off rail - Vaccume is fine. On turning the engine off, the shut off lever seems to travel down beyond the original stop, and will not come back up unless manually lifted. Once lifted the engine will start fine. When manually moving the stop lever it feels like it is dragging past something at the bottom of the travel. I feel it has to do with the moved barrel in the delivery valve because there were no other issues prior to doing this work. Any suggestions you have would be appreciated. Thanks BCB
Wanted to follow up on the question I asked previously. Others on the thread suggested the fuel shut off valve was to blame - and it was. I have an old spare injection pump under my bench I use for exploring and figuring out injection issues. I used a Mighty Vac and tested the spare shut off valve and it held vacuum just fine. Tested the one in the care and it leaked down in seconds. Ordered a new shut off valve and installed it today. Now starting and stopping as it should. Thanks for the suggestions.
Very good video, thanks for sharing this helpfull video with us. Yesterday I've seen that 2 of the 5 lines have fuel leaks so I'll have to change the rings too(OM605911). The pump make a metallic sound I hope this leak repair will fix the problem. thank you very much
I will copy what you have done to the book am not a complete dummy lol I done bits of car work in the past if I brake it car cost me 150 so not botherd I will try my best I ordered the seals just got to get a torque wrench and I will have a blast thank you 👍👍
This is a great video. I just did this to my W123 and made a video to. Your video is so much nicer and the camera work is better too. I actually linked to your video and your channel from my video because your video is so good. Thanks.
Hi, very nice, clear and well explained video. Hats off! My question to you now is where exactly was the diesel leaking from in your car? My reason asking is that I just noticed my car was vibrating and found out that diesel is leaking out from one of the five delivery fuel line leading to the injector. The diesel leak is coming out from the delivery line nut where the pipe line starts. To my analysis, it seems like that I need to replace that particular old pipe assy injector line with a new one, am I correct? Or changing the o-ring and copper washer will do the trick? I need help!
Very nice Video thanks for sharing . I have a 1991 300D 2.5 turbo that won’t stay running. Could the delivery valves cause the motor not to run? I drive it about 300miles then it just shut off on me. There was a puddle of diesel under the car when I got home from work . Thanks.
Hi. As the others, this video is very nice and very helpful! Thank you very much for the nice job you do and for sharing your knowledge! I have a question: Can you give me some details about the special socket and eventually where I can find it? Thank you very much! Armand
I got the o rings from McMaster and they were 10 in a pack and they are Viton. The crush washers came from AutohauseAz. Got the socket from Amazon . Bosch Fuel Injector Seal; Copper Washer At Injector Nozzle Holder; 9x13mm P/N: 0049974540 Resistant Viton® Fluoroelastomer O-Ring, 2 mm Wide, 15 mm ID www.mcmaster.com/9263K299 for delivery valve
hello sir, what kind of tool do you use to lift the copper gasket and what liquids do you add in the valve bodies with the small bottles? can you put the link in description for the tool? thank you for your return
Gutes Video. Danke dafür. Was passiert eigentlich wenn man die unter dem Kupferring befindlichen "Kolben auch zum reinigen rausholt und wieder einsetzt oder gar vertauscht zB. 2 mit 4 Zylinder?
Salut. Tanks you. Malheureusement j'ai fais bouger le porte joint de cuivre. Je tourne sur 4 bougies et ça fuit. Je n'avais pas regardé votre vidéo avant. Comment puis-je procéder pour améliorer ? Tanks you.
Good day very clear instructions can you help me have to exchange old diesel pump with new one not sure how. Is there a video that will explain the timing adjustments on the pump?
can u do this without taking the intake manifold off on a 93 300d? looks like you can but do those high pressure lines move enough to get the wrench in?
It is and here's the link. Good luck. Did it this weekend. Great feeling. www.amazon.com/dp/B07XJ2DQWN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_RMCG54VVFTG1BMGXX176?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Dear sir thanks for your video. May you able to tell me what is the black 3 connector on your fuel ignition pump and do you know if it's possible to short it because i put a New pump without the captor and i haven't got any more the turbo . Thanks for your answer and sorry for my english but i' m french
Hello and thanks for posting this useful video! I was wondering if you'd be able to answer a question for me. I have a 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo in which this job was done before I purchased it. I drove the car home 3 hours and when I got home, I noticed diesel fuel seeping a bit from the bottom of the injection pump. The top area areound the delivery v alves is completely dry. Do you have any idea what might be the issue?
There is a guy offering the kit for like $60. He has a video. If you want to do it without the kit check the comment above yours where I posted where to get parts. Get the socket from Amazon for under $10
hi again I just done 2 delivery valves the two front ones was leaking all gone smooth car is running fine none of the bits from inside the pump came out although they moved alot with little effort? so I just relalined them without pulling out can you leave the old copper washer in to save time or dose it need to be replaced? I got one more to do now but I need to take the inlet manifold off i am thinking of egr delete would you recommend this or not thank you for you time and help 👍👍👍👌🤘🤘
I suspect that the copper washers are actually the "primary" seal and as a single use item they get crushed to exactly fit the first time they are used to contain the *very* high pressure and then the rubber 'O' rings are a secondary barrier to leakage. Sorry, but I fear that without replacing the copper washers the 'O' rings will fail again sooner rather than latter...
Question: Because of fuel leakage yesterday i had to change copper ring and the rubber seal for all five injections and the engine is kinda not running smoothly like it was before, it has this strange rattling noise. I was wondering how long it will take for the engine to be back to normal?
Hello. Thank you very much for this video. I made the same operation on my 250D. Everything is ok except that a clicking noise appeared during idle just after this operation that I made 2 days ago. The clicking noise seems to be the tappets clicking noise while I didn't touch anything except the valves seals. Do you know if this noise is normal? Do you know where from this noise can come from? Is this noise will disappear alone? Thank you! Armand
![เปิดบ้าน โคตรสวย ป๋องกพล รู้จักตั้งนาน เพิ่งรู้ว่ารวย!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tmgCF_2HfYI/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for a great repair video. You saved me about $5,000. Mercedes wanted to sell me an entire fuel injection pump. They told me that the copper crush gaskets and o-rings were only available for the European models. It took a bit of outage on my part for them to sell me the parts after I pointed out that the European and American injector pumps had the same serial number. Reluctantly, they sold me the o-rings and crush gaskets for the high price of $30.00. So, I fixed the problem for $30 instead of $5,000. Thanks to your video.
the price is now 50 usd, or at least it is where i live
Thank you brother! I have been able to refurbish my entire fuel system and this was the last part of the job. I appreciate your detailed explanations and friendly attitude!
Great video, thanks. I just did the job today on my Ssangyong Musso (Mercedes 5 cylinder 602 engine) and it all went well. A few comments:
1. I noticed you had the intake manifold removed. I didn't want to replace the gasket so I tried without removing the manifold, and it was all fine. I needed a universal joint link to use my torque wrench but everything else was easy enough to do under the manifold.
2. On two cylinders I found that the copper washer came out with the valve body. This happened on the first cylinder I did, and I spent some time trying to remove what I thought was the washer. Fortunately I don't think I did any damage but I was glad when I finally found the washer.
3. Before I did the job I was having trouble with my engine not only leaking fuel (vegetable oil in my case!) but air getting into the fuel line whenever I stopped the engine for more than about 10 minutes, which meant lots of cranking every time I started the engine. I could see bubbles of air rising to the fuel filter through the injection pump return line. I had thought that the air must be entering via leaks in the fuel lines, but apparently it was through the injection valves because that problem now seems to be solved too!
Hi there. I am about to do this job on 3 ssangyong Musso cars which we run on waste vegetable oil and diesel blended. I am trying to find the specifications for the o-rings and copper washers. Did you use buna/nitrile o-rings for the vegetable oil?
@@NaughtyGoatFarm I just ordered the parts from my local Mercedes dealer. Mercedes are great like that - no fuss and the parts are pretty cheap. No leaks after almost 3 years.
Can you tell me spline socket size he said 32 point I don’t understand.thank you
Nice video, and I agree with you 100% that cleanliness is a priority when working on this part of the injection pump. The correct description of the part that contains the rubber sealing o-ring is delivery valve holder and not delivery valve like you said. The copper sealing washer is seating on top of the delivery valve as shown on your video and nothing to worry about also when you accidentally move or even remove the whole delivery valve when renewing copper sealing washer.The fuel delivery adjustment is made by altering the position of plunger inside the barrel and no mechanical adjustment can be made on the delivery valve. With everything back together the way it was before and with the new delivery valve copper sealing washer and delivery valve holder sealing o-ring plus the correct tightening torque of the delivery valve holder you can confidently say that its a job well done. Thank you so much for making this very informative video and all the best in the future.
I can honesty say that if it not for this video my car would now be in the scrap yard.#6 hardline cracked. Looked pretty simple until I touched the CVC plumbing and it crumbled . First I tried it without removing the manifold. Don't even try. Finally got the Mani off and replaced the hardline. All the CVC plumbing is connected via black silicon. Did not know I could run engine without manifold. Spent months reaching under and realigning the hardline. It was the delivery valves. Did it this weekend. Without this video I was ready to pull the trigger on a Toyota Lexus ct200h. The market is not good for buying at present and I wanted to fix my Mercedes. Thank you very much.
I would like to post links to where I got the parts. They are not affiliate links. I saw a lot of people asking where to buy the supplies. Thanks again
Chemical-Resistant Viton® Fluoroelastomer O-Ring, 2 mm Wide, 15 mm ID
www.mcmaster.com/9263K299 for delivery valve
Bosch Fuel Injector Seal; Copper Washer At Injector Nozzle Holder; 9x13mm
P/N: 0049974540. From AutohauseAz
Socket from Amazon Pt number B07XJ2DQWN under $10
My daughter and I just did this thanks to you help!!! She thinks you are a kind man and we are thankful!
This is how all how to videos should be. Very good/clear explanations. Thank you!
you are welcome
Understanding that this video is 8 years old, thank you for the awesome information! I am about to perform this job on my 1993 300D 2.5 Turbo (OM602) and this video was critical to my success.
The first part of the job is to purchase the O-rings, crush washers, and new gaskets for the intake, then remove the intake and numerous miscellaneous parts; the second part is to carefully perform this job; lastly, reassemble the intake and miscellaneous parts, paying close attention to whether or not the intake needs a proper cleaning prior to full reassembly. Also inspect the EGR valve and intake butterfly for build-up.
Great video. Just a few comments....I just replaced these on a 93 300D 124.602. It’s an easy job. You don’t need to pull the manifold. Use a 1/2 Universal Joint with an extension to get under the metal fuel lines....BE VERY careful to keep it clean, as he said. As you pull the delivery injector, be VERY careful. Spin it and lift it straight off of the spring. I used medical surgical tools....o-ring it and torque to specs. When you re-attach the main delivery line, be very careful....use your hand and move the line to the injector...Do not crank down on it with 14mm.
Great video! And spot on!
I know this video is about 3-4 years old but thank you very kindly for posting it... Such a big help for me!
Hello Sir, i really love Your Teaching Video about changing the seals of the injektor pump valve... Tomorrow i have to Do this work on my own... Aß im Not a Mechanik, thanks a 1000 times for showing the right way of doing IT
Thank you su much Sir!!!... I glad to saw your fantastic video because I have two Mercedes Diesel engines with this system Inyection Pump that need to repair and change this things!!... Best regards for you and all your people from Santiago of Chile, South America!... God bles you!!
This video is in detail and well presented. Letting us know what we should 'Not' do is Great!
Thanks man, just done yesterday for my 2.5 and drove today 300km , loads savings on fuel not a drop leaked everything is dry now , thanks
Very Very Good..
I never stop learning..!!
Something so simple if not done right can cost you thousands of dollars..
Hi there DieselM - and thanks for the video; step by step, accurate and with important warnings. Thumbs up 🙂
Thank you DIESEL MERCEDES
Thanks to your video, I replaced on my om603 engine w140
Awesome thank you this helped me a lot as I had to do this procedure on my 2.9 - 5 cylinder engine. However, what helped me with the starting difficulty, I injected some diesel into the system with a syringe and a short pipe into the outlet pipe of the fuel filter that goes into the pump. A few squirts at the time and one can see the air bubbles coming out until the pipe is full. Ensure that the new fuel filter is full, fasten it and crank the engine. It took me 4 attempts and the engine started on the 5th attempt. I hope that this can help someone as well.
Thank you so much. I just replaced all 5 on my 1995 w202 c250d na. Bought the socket and the 2mm viton o rings and copper washers. Job took me about 90 mins. Very surgical procedure.
Hi, how did you ask for the socket? I want buy but I don´t kow how ask for it, thanks since mexico
@@carlosantoniosantamariadia7559 get it on Pelican parts for $70 or aliexpress for $7… delivery valve 32 point socket
I did the job today. This guide was of great help. Thanks
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! This was a wonderful, clear, complete instruction that helped me with my beloved 1989 5-speed 190d.
A God among mortals. Thank you so much for the video
Followed your instructions. They were invaluable in replacing o rings and copper discs
thank you for the video and thank you for speaking English in it.
Your English is good.
An Englishman
Thanks....
Thanks for the reply. I've tried to retightened it but no luck. The culprit was that the start of the pipe which has a ball shaped end at the diesel pump had a very fine crack on it thus had to replace that entire pipe. Welding the crack Is not guaranteed. Just thought I share my adventure with you and all your subscribers. Thanks again. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing...
I enjoy watching this video. Thanks for the details.
+Cindy Holden you are welcome...
Great videos you make, very good information. I chainged these seals om my 1993 om603 3,5L and i removed the valves you said not to touch. The engine will run again. But we had to crank it for like 20 min. :P
Torgeir Brandal Yes..that is why i did one, run engine, second, run engine….saving battery and starter….thanks for sharing...
Well done, I've subscribed. This model Mercedes is quite rare, and not often seen for sale. Keep up the nice work with your videos.
Thanks...
Yes - my 300GD had the same problem in 2024. Good information!
Great video! I think your wisdom will be useful with the drip of my pump. Lot of thanks!
Merci pour cette précieuse vidéo, c'est super clean
Thank You, for your time❤
With love for Romania
Need a mechanic like you in South Africa!
Be careful when removing the copper washer, the barrel the delivery valve sits on and if it lifts up and turns a mm it will jam itself and push the alignment pin when you torque the DV holders down. It happened to me but I was able to free up the barrel and push the pin back to normal
How did you repair it?? Please tell regards
Excellent video. You are helping me understand my new to me 1992 300D 2.5 turbo.
Świetna robota. Bardzo mi pomogłeś przyjacielu 👍
THANK YOU! I am about to preform this to my 86 300SDL
Thank you for the great info. I need to do this job on my USA spec 1991 300D 2.5T
This is a great video ! Wish I had watched it before doing this same job last Sunday on my 1991 300d 2.5 turbo. I know to leave everything below the copper washers alone however accidents happen. On the last valve, for the No 1 cylinder, the copper washer dropped between the barrell and the housing and i had to fish it out. The barrel got turned a little sideways during this. It appeared fine and I put it all back together. The engine runs fine however now there is an issue with the shut off rail - Vaccume is fine. On turning the engine off, the shut off lever seems to travel down beyond the original stop, and will not come back up unless manually lifted. Once lifted the engine will start fine.
When manually moving the stop lever it feels like it is dragging past something at the bottom of the travel. I feel it has to do with the moved barrel in the delivery valve because there were no other issues prior to doing this work. Any suggestions you have would be appreciated. Thanks BCB
I don't know…never went so far..sorry.
Wanted to follow up on the question I asked previously. Others on the thread suggested the fuel shut off valve was to blame - and it was. I have an old spare injection pump under my bench I use for exploring and figuring out injection issues. I used a Mighty Vac and tested the spare shut off valve and it held vacuum just fine. Tested the one in the care and it leaked down in seconds. Ordered a new shut off valve and installed it today. Now starting and stopping as it should. Thanks for the suggestions.
Thanks for sharing !
Very good video, thanks for sharing this helpfull video with us. Yesterday I've seen that 2 of the 5 lines have fuel leaks so I'll have to change the rings too(OM605911). The pump make a metallic sound I hope this leak repair will fix the problem. thank you very much
Excellent video, thanks for making this.
Very concise
I will copy what you have done to the book am not a complete dummy lol I done bits of car work in the past if I brake it car cost me 150 so not botherd I will try my best I ordered the seals just got to get a torque wrench and I will have a blast thank you 👍👍
you are welcome....
ez job with the socket
This is a great video. I just did this to my W123 and made a video to. Your video is so much nicer and the camera work is better too. I actually linked to your video and your channel from my video because your video is so good. Thanks.
Hi, very nice, clear and well explained video. Hats off! My question to you now is where exactly was the diesel leaking from in your car?
My reason asking is that I just noticed my car was vibrating and found out that diesel is leaking out from one of the five delivery fuel line leading to the injector. The diesel leak is coming out from the delivery line nut where the pipe line starts. To my analysis, it seems like that I need to replace that particular old pipe assy injector line with a new one, am I correct? Or changing the o-ring and copper washer will do the trick? I need help!
might be retightened..or replaced ? Good Luck.
This was a quality video!
Quoc Nguyen Thank you...
Very nice Video thanks for sharing .
I have a 1991 300D 2.5 turbo that won’t stay running.
Could the delivery valves cause the motor not to run? I drive it about 300miles then it just shut off on me.
There was a puddle of diesel under the car when I got home from work .
Thanks.
thanks for taking the time to make this!
Se podrá traducir al español. Gracias muy bueno todo. Saludo desde Uruguay
This is a very good video! Thanks a lot for it ! Can you please tell the size of the orings and the cupper rings?
Very well done video! Thanks for anything on the old 190's
you are welcome….
Great video 👍🏼👍🏼
So bad you didn’t show how much fuel it was leaking before replacing the parts was done
Thanks so much, the job will be much easier now
Hi. As the others, this video is very nice and very helpful! Thank you very much for the nice job you do and for sharing your knowledge!
I have a question: Can you give me some details about the special socket and eventually where I can find it?
Thank you very much!
Armand
I found it on Amazon for less than $10.
Thank you for your videos, they are very helpful!
Great video! does anyone have the metric measurements on those o-rings? I would like to get some nitrile ones..
I am also looking for the same thing. Dimensions of o-rings and the copper washers anyone?
@@NaughtyGoatFarm Hi, seems we are looking for the same parts, anyone has the parts code?
I just did this job. Thank you so much for this video.
Great work. Very well explianed.
Thank you very much. Very nice video!!
thank you for the video very helpfull, could you please tell me the oem part number for the rubber seals and the copper seal rings, thank you
+Corrado i don't have this info….it came from PELICANPARTS…….
I got the o rings from McMaster and they were 10 in a pack and they are Viton. The crush washers came from AutohauseAz. Got the socket from Amazon . Bosch Fuel Injector Seal; Copper Washer At Injector Nozzle Holder; 9x13mm
P/N: 0049974540
Resistant Viton® Fluoroelastomer O-Ring, 2 mm Wide, 15 mm ID
www.mcmaster.com/9263K299 for delivery valve
Thank you so much for your help friend!!!!!!
Thanks a lot for this video ,it very helpful for me as I'm going to replace some seals in similar pump
you are welcome….
You are my Hero. God bless you.
Helo brother how are you what is the name of the tool that socket I need one and where can I get it
very good master
Hi. Nice video...just a question:where can i find those joints (copper and rubber)? Thanks
What is the fix if you remove parts below the copper washer? My mechanic did it and the car runs kind of rough now. Thanks for the help
hello sir, what kind of tool do you use to lift the copper gasket and what liquids do you add in the valve bodies with the small bottles? can you put the link in description for the tool? thank you for your return
Great lesson!
Gutes Video. Danke dafür. Was passiert eigentlich wenn man die unter dem Kupferring befindlichen "Kolben auch zum reinigen rausholt und wieder einsetzt oder gar vertauscht zB. 2 mit 4 Zylinder?
Hi there. How much tighten/torque for the T30 torx please 🙄 thanks
What is the part number for the seals and the washers?
thank you for this video I can't get any mechanics to do this job they say it's specialist 🤔
yeah, in this case, you better know what you are doing...or don't touch it !
Salut. Tanks you. Malheureusement j'ai fais bouger le porte joint de cuivre. Je tourne sur 4 bougies et ça fuit.
Je n'avais pas regardé votre vidéo avant.
Comment puis-je procéder pour améliorer ?
Tanks you.
Good day very clear instructions can you help me have to exchange old diesel pump with new one not sure how. Is there a video that will explain the timing adjustments on the pump?
very good video hello can you tell me the name of that given or drink and what is its extent, thanks, greetings from Chile
can u do this without taking the intake manifold off on a 93 300d? looks like you can but do those high pressure lines move enough to get the wrench in?
Excellent video, very clearly explained
Thanks for this videos, but I'd like know, where can I get a key(a socket pack) for a holder ? Is it available on Amazon ?
It is and here's the link. Good luck. Did it this weekend. Great feeling. www.amazon.com/dp/B07XJ2DQWN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_RMCG54VVFTG1BMGXX176?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@capedoryus Thanks alot
What happens if you lift the middle part slightly?
Great video! Thank you so much for the instruction!!
Thanks for a great video
Dear sir thanks for your video. May you able to tell me what is the black 3 connector on your fuel ignition pump and do you know if it's possible to short it because i put a New pump without the captor and i haven't got any more the turbo . Thanks for your answer and sorry for my english but i' m french
كم مقاس الحبه ياليت احد يرد
Parts numbers and socket size?
What will happen when you lift more than just the copper ring?
Hello and thanks for posting this useful video! I was wondering if you'd be able to answer a question for me. I have a 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo in which this job was done before I purchased it. I drove the car home 3 hours and when I got home, I noticed diesel fuel seeping a bit from the bottom of the injection pump. The top area areound the delivery v alves is completely dry. Do you have any idea what might be the issue?
You are very good at repair on benz did you work for them at one time sir
Could u advise parts number for copper and rubber seal please..
Thanks You men
Good job. I fixt my MB 190 👍
Hi .what is the diameter of the rubber o ring outside and inside diameter ? Thank you
Where did you get the copper gaskets, I'm from Norway but live in Spain and they don't have Mercedes in Spain
Please do not lie... I also live in Spain, and they is a dealership every 60kms.
Great video... do you have the part # for the rebuild kit that has the o-rings and brass washer part? Or a place where I can order it
There is a guy offering the kit for like $60. He has a video. If you want to do it without the kit check the comment above yours where I posted where to get parts. Get the socket from Amazon for under $10
Thanks for the details and I enjoy watching. . . . . .
you are welcome...
Wow man!!, good video lesson!) I've subscribed on your channel, thank you.
you are welcome….
good lesson for me sir, Thanks
hi again I just done 2 delivery valves the two front ones was leaking all gone smooth car is running fine none of the bits from inside the pump came out although they moved alot with little effort? so I just relalined them without pulling out can you leave the old copper washer in to save time or dose it need to be replaced? I got one more to do now but I need to take the inlet manifold off i am thinking of egr delete would you recommend this or not thank you for you time and help 👍👍👍👌🤘🤘
I suspect that the copper washers are actually the "primary" seal and as a single use item they get crushed to exactly fit the first time they are used to contain the *very* high pressure and then the rubber 'O' rings are a secondary barrier to leakage. Sorry, but I fear that without replacing the copper washers the 'O' rings will fail again sooner rather than latter...
Question:
Because of fuel leakage yesterday i had to change copper ring and the rubber seal for all five injections and the engine is kinda not running smoothly like it was before, it has this strange rattling noise. I was wondering how long it will take for the engine to be back to normal?
+Gjonny B normally it should take max 10 miles…good luck.
Hello. Thank you very much for this video.
I made the same operation on my 250D. Everything is ok except that a clicking noise appeared during idle just after this operation that I made 2 days ago.
The clicking noise seems to be the tappets clicking noise while I didn't touch anything except the valves seals.
Do you know if this noise is normal?
Do you know where from this noise can come from?
Is this noise will disappear alone?
Thank you!
Armand
what if you have taken the valves out and one dosnt work we have cyinder 6 not spraying desiel ??? can you help please
Hice lo mismo pero saque la válvulas porque estaban pegadas. Cómo las vuelvol a calibrar?
I am very curious what can go wrong, if you mess with the valves underneath the copper seals. Please give me some idea. Thank you.
Hi I'm from Chile I need to repair my injection pump where I can get the key given to touch it and release it. Gracias.
Hi you can get it on eBay 33 points soket.