E3D V6 Assembly : Prusa Mk3s Bear Upgrade

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2019
  • Key points -
    1) Nozzle and Heat break must be tightened against each other inside the block
    2) Gap between nozzle and block should be as less as possible. Maximum 0.2mm
    3) Make sure nozzle doesn't bottom out while inserting it in the block before it tightens against the heat break
    4) Always heat the hotend in order to remove or install any part in it.
    5) No part can be opened or removed while the hotend is in cold state.
    6) Always tight the nozzle while the hotend is at 280 degree celcius
    7) Do not use excessive force to tighten the nozzle. Otherwise it can break
    8) Always use collet clip in the collet in order to prevent ptfe from moving up and down
    9) Keep correct orientation of the aluminium block i.e. both the heater and thermistor screw should be accessible from the bottom.
    10) Properly tight the screws holding heater and thermistor while the hotend is hot at 280
    11) Always use shorter side of allen key to fully tight the screws.
    12) Be carefull not to strip head of the screws
    13) Always use thermal compound on the heatbreak
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ความคิดเห็น • 61

  • @knightsljx
    @knightsljx ปีที่แล้ว +1

    00:20 Components Introduction
    1:53 Install screws into Heat Block
    3:57 Install Nozzle
    4:42 Install Heat Break
    7:01 Hotend Cross Section
    9:17 Install Heat Sink
    10:37 Install Heater Cartridge
    13:21 Install Thermistor
    15:55 Heat Tightening the Nozzle
    20:33 Install Heat Sock
    21:45 Install PTFE

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  ปีที่แล้ว

      We really appreciate your support..thanks once again.

  • @jonybech
    @jonybech หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Thank you very much sir. Very well explained.

  • @einarofferdahl5863
    @einarofferdahl5863 3 ปีที่แล้ว +13

    One of the best videos I have watched in a long, long time. Thank you very much.

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thank you for your very kind words!

  • @gargladdy
    @gargladdy 3 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    Thank you for such a clear and easy to understand video! Seriously you did a great job of explaining everything (and that 3D printed slice was a great visual reference!)

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you for your inspiring words.

  • @K6TJO
    @K6TJO 2 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Congrats on producing a highly effective and educational demonstration. Love the ginormous nozzle model!!!

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks a lot for your appreciation

    • @techlabtmw9023
      @techlabtmw9023 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@3dprintronics Would you mind sharing STL files for the hotend model? I teach 3D printing to young adults at a large museum and this model would be perfect for explaining how a printer works!

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@techlabtmw9023 Hello please use the link below to get the stl files - www.prusaprinters.org/prints/489-e3d-v6-educational-hotend-section

    • @techlabtmw9023
      @techlabtmw9023 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@3dprintronics Thank you very much for the link!

  • @mykehdoom
    @mykehdoom 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you so much for this video.
    I never even thought of laying the hotend on something like wood and heating it up to tighten the nozzle.

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you for your kind words. This is the most basic troubleshooting step which in our opinion every 3d printer user must be aware of.

  • @knightsljx
    @knightsljx ปีที่แล้ว +1

    excellent video

  • @patrickyork2975
    @patrickyork2975 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I am about to replace my heat end for he first time and this will be very useful. Thank you!

  • @mrlogical07
    @mrlogical07 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    The cross section has the heater block upside down compared to how you said it should be.

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Block shown in PLASTIC MODEL is only for visual purpose. Actual position of block should be as shown in the METAL parts assembly. Thanks a lot

  • @iShootFast
    @iShootFast 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Best explanation I have seen. Great job.

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Rob ,thanks a lot for your appreciation.

  • @spudgossie
    @spudgossie 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Very good explanation. I learnt a lot

  • @Praecantetia
    @Praecantetia 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This was very informative and helpfull for correcting my assembly. Thanks a lot!

  • @halim1644
    @halim1644 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Super specific explaination. ... certified engineer you are.. VERY GOOD. India have many great engineer., SUBS .. make more quality content as this !

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks a lot for your appreciation.

  • @davoudtaghawi-nejad6780
    @davoudtaghawi-nejad6780 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is the best video on this topic.

  • @mufitozulug913
    @mufitozulug913 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    many Thanks for your information. It is very very helpfull.

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you for your kind words!

  • @calaverilandia
    @calaverilandia 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you buddy!

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Sir, thanks a lot for your appreciation

  • @emanprime3679
    @emanprime3679 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Aren't you supposed to put the thermal paste on the thermistor and heater cartridge?

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  ปีที่แล้ว

      It is not mandatory..i have seen mostly slice engineering guys providing boron nitride for the same purpose. You can use it there is no harm in it, but for most cases it also works without putting thermal paste on heater and thermistor.

  • @fpv_everyday
    @fpv_everyday 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you. Very helpfull

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Bela Andrei Szilagy Thank you for your kind words!

  • @OneMinuteChris
    @OneMinuteChris 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I replaced the hot end but now receiving a MINTEMP error

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Mintemp error can occur due to few reason, you can read more about it on prusa website - help.prusa3d.com/en/article/mintemp-and-mintemp-bed_2169

  • @michaelkorn2661
    @michaelkorn2661 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    STL for the big cross section of the E3Dv6?

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Michael Korn Hi this is available on thingiverse by the designer named flowalistik. Will try and search for the stl and update.

  • @salim.studio
    @salim.studio 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    do you know if the e3dv6 that come with prusa mk3s have the thermal paste in the heartbreak?

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      The heat sink compound will increase the efficiency of heat transfer between the heatbreak and the hotend heatsink. We need the break (the top portion) to be as cold as possible so that the filament is not soft in this portion. That is why this heatsink compound is applied and this is also as per E3D manual. I think the Prusa hotends with the kit come unassembled. It is advisable to assemble them as per the E3D guide or you can also use this video as a guide. We assemble and use many hot ends in this way and they have always worked perfectly for our customers.

    • @nathan118
      @nathan118 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I just took my prusa hotend apart yesterday, and yes, it had thermal paste applied.

  • @moreorlessme
    @moreorlessme 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have followed the steps but I am getting an ERR: MinTemp when I try to heat up the nozzle. I have tried two thermistors and I get the same error. Am I missing something? Do I need to reset the firmware in the printer or something?

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Mintemp error can occur due to many reasons. Here is a very good article on Prusa website - help.prusa3d.com/en/article/mintemp-and-mintemp-bed_2169#:~:text=MINTEMP%20%2D%20problem%20with%20the%20hotend%20temperature%20readout.&text=This%20error%20can%20be%20caused,break%20in%20the%20thermistor%20wire.

  • @MrJuuddss
    @MrJuuddss 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    i follow this video thoroughly and once i install the hot end to my extruder and insert the filament i continually get a jam and the extruder clicks constantly what am i doing wrong??

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello There can be many reasons leading to clogs in the hotend, if you can share some video or pics we might be able to help you out.

  • @cristianopersi7953
    @cristianopersi7953 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    What Silikon heater cover is that?

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It helps in maintaining a stable temperature of nozzle while the print cooling fan blows at full speed. It also keeps nozzle and block clean as the extruded plastic only sticks to the socks and can easily be cleaned. You can find more info on E3d website - e3d-online.com/products/v6-socks-pro-pack-of-3?_pos=4&_sid=f1df8dd2c&_ss=r

  • @mahmoudzaefi2958
    @mahmoudzaefi2958 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    thank you very much. it was perfect!
    thanks. what is the material of that last objects (little black object and blue clamp)? is that ABS?
    and could you give us the stl file of that to small object at the end of the video? i mean that blue and black small object.
    Thanks,

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Mahmoud thanks a lot for your kind words. Black color part is called as COLLET and Blue color part as COLLET CLIP. Both the parts shown in this video are injection moulded and made of ABS. You can use printed COLLET CLIP in abs, but printed collet might not work as it needs to be a bit flexible to go inside the hotend.

    • @mahmoudzaefi2958
      @mahmoudzaefi2958 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@3dprintronics There is a filament called PETG, which has a little flexibility. I think that material can be used as well.
      and do you have stl file for Collet and Collet Clip?
      I saw many videos, but they did not use "Collet and Collet Clip"in a fundamental and complete way.
      Thank you for your guidance.

    • @3dprintronics
      @3dprintronics  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@mahmoudzaefi2958 It is better to buy collet and collet clip from E3D. Printed collet might not work. Collet clip stl you can download from guides.bear-lab.com/Wiki/Bear_FAQ'. We do not have stl for collet. Thanks

  • @pepe6666
    @pepe6666 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    great video. good content. shame about the sound but this is a nice clear explanation of how it works and will help me a lot with maintenance.

  • @dimitriecioraneanu3041
    @dimitriecioraneanu3041 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    that english ... but all in all good video