A few points. Generally, on bare metal, the first coat of primer is an etch primer. Then you apply the 2K primer. On the bottom, you could have gone with a rubberized stone chip paint. Not quit as thick and difficult as a bedliner type coating. Then, when you spray, at the ends I noticed you were fanning off. That is when you have the spray gun essentially travel in an arc. The issue with that is that you get a coat that is thin at the sides, and thicker in the middle. Keep your gun the same distance at each end of your pass and it will give you a more even coat. Enjoying your progress! It makes me miss my ‘72 Corolla.
@@sansberlin Epoxy primer is fine if you ask me. I know there is somewhat a tug-of-war between epoxy and etch primer, but epoxy has worked well for me. Considering the conditions in Finland, which is between ice and thaw with road salt added to the mix, I would say epoxy sticks on there well. Stone chip is a good call, and you can paint and clear over that to get a nice finish too, but regardless I skipped it on my door sills, will have to see how the paint holds up.
@@---xd4wm Interesting, I figured thats a possibility but I sprayed epoxy on acid treated regardless, I guess I was in luck. I do sand the acid treated areas before paint anyhow.
I'd say you are doing a great job. When it comes to bedliner, those thick, goopy substances seem to be all a sure fire way to hidden rust and more problems. Fluid film seems to be one of the bigger brands in North America, and the application is very easy and it shouldn't hide anything beneath it. Of course, the protection is mostly from rusting and not from impacts from stones or gravel, but that could be a simple and quite inexpensive way to add a little extra rust protection, if you think it is necessary. Since it is not really a coating, but a film, it is recommended to be reapplied every year or at least every couple of years, but it is something you could easily do yourself. Similar products are also available from different brands like Liquid Moly, Dinitrol (not sure if available internationally), Würth etc.
Great to see your progress on this, it's fun watching you learn as you go. If you keep on going the way you have begun, it's going to be a beautiful car when you're finished. Regarding the undercoat, I've not seen other restorers clear coat the underside of the car, but the results look fantastic.
Really appreciate it man. I had a lot of trouble finding videos on this. There were plenty on how to add a thick bedliner, but none on just painting the underside, I maybe saw one person do clearcoat. The idea was to add another barrier to road wear.
Very good work ! Just as an information, dont add a rubberized undercoat. Use a thin film of fluidfilm ASR as base and spray a Wax based coating like Dinitrol High Performance Wax over it. Your car wont ever rust. For the cavities you can also use Fluidfilm ASR with the adapter nozzle to spray 360°. You really need to get material in, dont be cheap on the application.
I just found your channel when looking for information about preserving the underside of a classic. I'm restoring a 1980 Saab 96 (one of the very last ever made!!). All your vids will keep me busy for a while! I love the 'car roller' and I need to dig into that myself. My car was welded by a guy I knew, but sadly he passed away. The car stayed untouched for years. I was granted /given this car by his brother. (Makes me humble). No welding, only preserving and rebuilding.
Hope you’re having a nice start to 2024 Joel! I know you only just started rebuilding this but man do I wanna see how the rest of it went on. Notifications on and wishing you the best
Given that your car survived for 50 years with substandard rust prevention, I wish you the long life to see the efficacy of YOUR hard handiwork 50 years (and more) hence! Aloha!
@@sansberlinthe point is that even with your concerns that you didn't do a perfect job, it is better than factory and that lasted this long. Don't fret over it
Hey bro how you doing? I'm from Pakistan and I'm also in search for a corolla. Unfortunately we got 4 door rather than 2 doors, but they look the same I really like your videos and I'm inspired from Hopefully if i got my hands on one, I'm definitely gonna be in touch with you Keep making these videos bro 🎉
Great work! makes me want to do that to my Celica! Glad that you are willing to wok thru issues. I think its common to run into issues when we are doing something for the first time.
In trucking, I know a lot of old owner operators hit their frame rails with 3 cans of WD-40 before the winter, with the salt on the roads. I know it's a different thing here in Vancouver, but it's still probably a viable option on a car. Those guys don't have rust issues with their trucks.
since youre rebuilding the interior id suggest you add a layer of dynamat sound insulation and they also sell some other foam that does like thermal insulation like put it EVERYWHERE yes it will add weight but the interior will fell like a luxury car, im talking roof, doors, trunk, anywhere there's bare metal make sure to insulate it, also if you do add it get the roller tool to make installation easier, cant wait to see more from this.
Right now there's already carpet in the car...but there was a small fire in the last episode. I think you're right, maybe I should take out the carpet and headliner to insulate everything. I want that luxury resto feel. Cheers man
@@sansberlin have a scar on my palm from a wrench slipping doing the valves on my 72 Carolla that was yellow (dad helped me buy it was owned by a little old lady in Victoria B.C. It had a large yellow stain in the white headliner from years of sitting in it and and smoking
Absolutely love your channel man, just stumbled upon it today randomly and binge watched all of your videos, it's crazy to me that you don't have hundreds of thousands of subscribes but everything in due time!
@@sansberlin Completely understandable, looking forwards to the next episode! This has definitely motivated me finally get some more work done on my daily as well ('91 W124), thanks!
Man I love what you're doing, it's both relaxing and inspiring to watch. But please use earpro when you're spraying stuff with the air hose. I have tinnitus now and all I can say is I'd rather have dealt with the momentary hassle than deal with this permanent discomfort that is only going to get worse over time. I don't think the spray gun needs earpro since it's not nearly as loud or high pitched, but straight air does need it.
Not gonna lie, I'm just some random that had this video show up in my feed, and i wish i had known you were doing something like this beforehand so i could give you some advice. With deoxidine, (rust converter/phosphoric acid) you need to apply it with a scotch-brite pad and rub/key it into the surface of the metal and really deeply into the left over rusty pits. The reason you use a scotch pad is the acid will not penetrate into "deep" rust by itself, it will only convert that very top layer. You ideally need to remove as much rust as practically possible with a wire wheel first and use the acid as the final solution for the small bits you either missed or cannot get to. From there you immediately wipe it off with a damp wet rag before it dries, which you semi frequently rinse out in a bucket of water. It seems counter intuitive at first but the wet rag actually dilutes the excessive acid and helps spread it out on the panel. If you've done it correctly, your panel will have this almost tacky looking clear coat effect, that is silver/blue in colour. This is a fine layer of acid that is converting and temporarily protecting the panel. If you leave straight acid to dry, it will form thick white layers that will not come off very easily. It will clog and ruin sandpaper quickly and you will consume a lot of denatured alcohol and rags. Ask me how i know. When you are ready to progress, simply use a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water in a spray bottle, spray the panel down and then wipe off the acid with some clean rags until all the acid is removed (the panel will go a slight orange/rainbow color when bare and the rags will go black/grey). Do a final pass again with prep-sol and rags + a tack rag + air gun to remove any lint. I know the water seems counterintuitive but it dilutes and removes the remaining acid and the alcohol binds with the water and allows it to evaporate off the surface with little to no trace. From here you should be mixing up and getting ready to apply a 2k epoxy metal sealer. Unfortunately you've experienced exactly what happens when you do not remove the acid. The paint "fries up" absolutely everywhere because it is reacting with the primer (similar to paint stripper). This is also why you either completely avoid or very carefully use phosphoric etch primers over existing repairs like 1k primer and bog because it WILL react with stuff. Most people do not acid etch primers these days, at all, unless they are trying to stick primer to a hard to stick to substrate, like aluminum and galvanized steel. Even then we have modern epoxy primers that do a better job. I suggest before going any further, you look up these two TH-cam channels. "the gunman", hes an Aussie fella that has shared countless hours of real world advice in all aspects of painting and gun setup. The other is "Astill Design" who is another Aussie custom car builder, who has been doing this work since the dawn of time. He has recently filmed a series of videos that cover surface prep, what products to use (with 1v1 interviews with PPG), where to use them, how to use them, how to apply bog, how to apply poly filler, as well as tips on gun size. I will admit that Astill is what i would consider high end in terms of what sand paper and what tools he has access too but the fundamentals are all there. Both of these guys are an absolute wealth of information which should come in VERY handy on your build. ill finish off by saying that im not trying to beat you down in any way, if anything its exciting to see people getting out there and having a go at this stuff. I just think, if you can avoid making unnecessary mistakes (like what i have in the past), you'll be much better for it. Good Luck :)} Edit: oh and avoid 1k products as much as possible. They are for hobbyist, quick spot repair and quick fix industrial stuff for farmers. The primers are not water proof and they will react with basically anything (thinners, prepsol, metho, sometimes even 2k paint) and they are NOT UV stable. Basically the only 1k product i would use now days is epoxy primer for stuff i dont really care about or doesnt see the sun (engine bay for example) and 1k seam sealer. Everything else is trash.
Hello. I love that car. Hey, question, do you know what will you do for suspension? I am building a te27 trueno and installing a F22c engine on it and I would like to get some ideas for the suspension. Thank you
I’m actually not too sure at this point, but I need to start doing some research. I want a smooth ride, not too stiff. I was hoping to find some Bilstein inserts for the front shocks, and b6 shocks for the back, and just clean up the leaf springs. What have you researched so far, I’m curious?
Happy Spring to you as well! Yes, it hasn’t been derailed, just a lot of life events. Bought house, renovations, moving in, changing jobs, architectural registration. It’s a busy time but nearing the end of it. Looking forward to getting back to the project 👌🏻
I have been watching this video series since the beginning, and now I just realized that I am not subscribed? Or was I and TH-cam unsubscribed me? Either way I'm going to ring the bell.
I just watched all the Corolla restoration videos. I'm waiting for the next one, when will it come out? I laughed a lot at your soldering, but I appreciate your resilience.
I know how much time this must take not only for the repair, but for editing a ton of footage into an engaging video. Thanks for sharing all this with us, and I will continue to look forward to every new video
Ya not everyone understands this would be alot faster if i didnt record it haha. But mostly just personal everyday stuff, life takes time. New episode today.
lots of effort but as a everyday car painter I would do things a bit different , while still possible, light sand it , buy some oversprayable stone chip guard, and spray it over with 2k black paint (wet and shiny) definetly will look better and be more protected ;)
Loving the restoration so far! A part of me cant help but think how cool an electric conversion for this chassis would be but the petrolhead wont allow it
only problem I noticed is that 2k high build primer usually doesn't seal out moisture, and not sure what paint you used. I would have sprayed a 2 part epoxy 2-3 coats and potentially top coat on that, but only necessary if the epoxy will come into contact with UV rays.
Ya its all going to be under the car so im not too worried. I put as many coats down as possible. I just went to the automotive section of KMS and told them to give me an autobody paint for undercarriage and they shook it up for me. We'll see what happens.
Have you had any problems thinning it way down? The spec on the can said I could only thin it to a ratio of .5 of what I used, so I was afraid to add more?
If I was gonna do your car, I would do it just the same way you did it. Clean, Prime, Paint. But afterwards, I would douse everything in "fluid film". It's this thick nasty oily stuff that soaks into everything and displaces moisture. Its not for show cars but its great for daily drivers.
Please upload already, been waiting for this more than the final series of Game of Thrones
Hella low bar but slow is smooth and smooth is good lmao. Let him cook as the youth say.
@@possibly8180 Today's the day, back to it.
You could’ve used a spray grip for the spray can. It’ll save your fingers from hurting.
Great job as always. Keep it up.
Thanks as always man
my first thought
A few points. Generally, on bare metal, the first coat of primer is an etch primer. Then you apply the 2K primer. On the bottom, you could have gone with a rubberized stone chip paint. Not quit as thick and difficult as a bedliner type coating. Then, when you spray, at the ends I noticed you were fanning off. That is when you have the spray gun essentially travel in an arc. The issue with that is that you get a coat that is thin at the sides, and thicker in the middle. Keep your gun the same distance at each end of your pass and it will give you a more even coat.
Enjoying your progress! It makes me miss my ‘72 Corolla.
Hopefully that rust converter containing the acid did some etching, as I did think about it. Thanks for all the tips man, i'll remember it!
@@sansberlin Epoxy primer is fine if you ask me. I know there is somewhat a tug-of-war between epoxy and etch primer, but epoxy has worked well for me. Considering the conditions in Finland, which is between ice and thaw with road salt added to the mix, I would say epoxy sticks on there well.
Stone chip is a good call, and you can paint and clear over that to get a nice finish too, but regardless I skipped it on my door sills, will have to see how the paint holds up.
Etch primer stays in the 70s. We now have 2k epoxy sealer
@@janeblogs324 I've seen both used. But I guess epoxy is the better option since it’ll stick to just about anything.
@@---xd4wm Interesting, I figured thats a possibility but I sprayed epoxy on acid treated regardless, I guess I was in luck. I do sand the acid treated areas before paint anyhow.
we need another episode 😅 this build is way too cool
Electrician just put in the oven plug for powder coating the parts, time to get to work!
Give us a dateeeeeee, I'm so excited for the next video
@@MerBowe for real
Really keen to see the rest of this man. Been loving watching so far !
More more more, just had a watch through of the whole series again
seconded. this is the most interesting build on yt right now, imo
Thanks guys, new episode, and back on schedule today
The dedication you're suwoing this car is incredible, Joel. I can't wait to see her up and rolling.
Really appreciate it man, I'm excited to get it back down on the ground
@@sansberlin I can imagine so. I wish there were more of those old corollas still around to fix up.
You listen to awesome music! lol I loved hearing El Paso in the background
Thanks man, variety is the spice of life, i've got the Spotify linked
いやあ素晴らしい！愛がありますね！！レストア逐一チェックしていきますので頑張って下さい！
ありがとう、頑張ります！
I'd say you are doing a great job. When it comes to bedliner, those thick, goopy substances seem to be all a sure fire way to hidden rust and more problems. Fluid film seems to be one of the bigger brands in North America, and the application is very easy and it shouldn't hide anything beneath it. Of course, the protection is mostly from rusting and not from impacts from stones or gravel, but that could be a simple and quite inexpensive way to add a little extra rust protection, if you think it is necessary. Since it is not really a coating, but a film, it is recommended to be reapplied every year or at least every couple of years, but it is something you could easily do yourself. Similar products are also available from different brands like Liquid Moly, Dinitrol (not sure if available internationally), Würth etc.
Could something like this be applied even after i've painted? extra layer of protection? New episode today
Great to see your progress on this, it's fun watching you learn as you go. If you keep on going the way you have begun, it's going to be a beautiful car when you're finished. Regarding the undercoat, I've not seen other restorers clear coat the underside of the car, but the results look fantastic.
Really appreciate it man. I had a lot of trouble finding videos on this. There were plenty on how to add a thick bedliner, but none on just painting the underside, I maybe saw one person do clearcoat. The idea was to add another barrier to road wear.
Very good work ! Just as an information, dont add a rubberized undercoat. Use a thin film of fluidfilm ASR as base and spray a Wax based coating like Dinitrol High Performance Wax over it. Your car wont ever rust. For the cavities you can also use Fluidfilm ASR with the adapter nozzle to spray 360°. You really need to get material in, dont be cheap on the application.
I found this channel just yesterday and already watched all your videos. Big fan!
Thanks man! More to come
I just found your channel when looking for information about preserving the underside of a classic. I'm restoring a 1980 Saab 96 (one of the very last ever made!!). All your vids will keep me busy for a while! I love the 'car roller' and I need to dig into that myself. My car was welded by a guy I knew, but sadly he passed away. The car stayed untouched for years. I was granted /given this car by his brother. (Makes me humble). No welding, only preserving and rebuilding.
Uncle brad has the most glorious mullet I've ever seen in my life
Uncle Brad has a lot of tricks up his sleeve
can't wait to see you shift gears on that beauty
Same, but also slightly scared to get it running properly, a whole different set of skills to learn
Excited for the next episode! Love finding new channels with amazing video series
It takes a truly humble person to show their learning curve!!👌💪
came out great for DIY! What's wrong with the bedliner (raptor liner) for underneath the car??
I used a fence sprayer for my undercarriage with no thinner, worked a treat and looked factory
Hope you’re having a nice start to 2024 Joel! I know you only just started rebuilding this but man do I wanna see how the rest of it went on. Notifications on and wishing you the best
Thanks man, its been a great start to the year and there are plans to expand the channel and continue this restoration! Wont be long, but stay tuned.
Always love, saying people giving new things a crack not very often. You get people like you keep up the good work man love the content mate
Thanks man appreciate it. Its all about inspiring people to give anything a try and learn new skills.
I've almost binged thorugh all the videos alread lol, great content man, productions, and personality!
Given that your car survived for 50 years with substandard rust prevention, I wish you the long life to see the efficacy of YOUR hard handiwork 50 years (and more) hence! Aloha!
Thats exactly the mentality, its lasted 50 years to get to me, need it to last another 50!
@@sansberlinthe point is that even with your concerns that you didn't do a perfect job, it is better than factory and that lasted this long. Don't fret over it
Hey bro how you doing?
I'm from Pakistan and I'm also in search for a corolla. Unfortunately we got 4 door rather than 2 doors, but they look the same
I really like your videos and I'm inspired from
Hopefully if i got my hands on one, I'm definitely gonna be in touch with you
Keep making these videos bro 🎉
Looks great man, the progress you made so far is awesome. I can't wait to see this thing drive
Thanks man, cant wait for it to be on the road too
Great work! makes me want to do that to my Celica! Glad that you are willing to wok thru issues. I think its common to run into issues when we are doing something for the first time.
please keep uploading
I hope you'll consider doing spray on Thermal and Sound insulation on the interion, the difference it makes is amazing.
That sounds like a good idea, and perhaps more efficient than a stick on acoustic sheet?
whats the brand name?
dope series man, cant wait for the next one
Thanks man, life's been busy, hopefully will be back at it in November
love seeing this come together!
Slowly but surely, thanks man!
Very well done,Joel!
Thank you!
Awaiting for next episode.. but no hurry.. I know it’s hard for someone who is a weekend warrior.. 😊❤
Thanks man, it’ll actually be out next week, just editing now
great progress so far! it's always exciting getting a new coat of paint down
Thank you! Having it finally painted and sitting in the garage is a big relief in itself, not the exposed metal to worry about. Onto the parts
Pleaaaaaaaaaase we need an upload of the series half year of waiting is killing me, greetings from Chile!
Wednesday!
@@sansberlin I'm going to belive 🙌🏻 Thanks for answer 💪🏻
Would be nice to see the next episode . I hope you know you're making history dude
Haha thanks man, busy end of the year, will be starting on powder coating come January
man i love your workshop
Thanks man, slowly coming together
In trucking, I know a lot of old owner operators hit their frame rails with 3 cans of WD-40 before the winter, with the salt on the roads. I know it's a different thing here in Vancouver, but it's still probably a viable option on a car. Those guys don't have rust issues with their trucks.
Props to the 2 Patrons!
Small but mighty! Thanks man
since youre rebuilding the interior id suggest you add a layer of dynamat sound insulation and they also sell some other foam that does like thermal insulation like put it EVERYWHERE yes it will add weight but the interior will fell like a luxury car, im talking roof, doors, trunk, anywhere there's bare metal make sure to insulate it, also if you do add it get the roller tool to make installation easier, cant wait to see more from this.
Right now there's already carpet in the car...but there was a small fire in the last episode. I think you're right, maybe I should take out the carpet and headliner to insulate everything. I want that luxury resto feel. Cheers man
it won't work, the majority of the noise comes through the thin glass and tire noise
Super happy i found your channel, im doing something simillar and itès cool to see how you are doing everything
Really enjoying watching you work
Thanks man
@@sansberlin have a scar on my palm from a wrench slipping doing the valves on my 72 Carolla that was yellow (dad helped me buy it was owned by a little old lady in Victoria B.C. It had a large yellow stain in the white headliner from years of sitting in it and and smoking
Absolutely love your channel man, just stumbled upon it today randomly and binge watched all of your videos, it's crazy to me that you don't have hundreds of thousands of subscribes but everything in due time!
Thanks man, appreciate it. Hopefully one day the subs will come, but for now I just want to get the car driving again!
@@sansberlin Completely understandable, looking forwards to the next episode! This has definitely motivated me finally get some more work done on my daily as well ('91 W124), thanks!
Patrons bit had me in tears lmao
Man I love what you're doing, it's both relaxing and inspiring to watch. But please use earpro when you're spraying stuff with the air hose. I have tinnitus now and all I can say is I'd rather have dealt with the momentary hassle than deal with this permanent discomfort that is only going to get worse over time. I don't think the spray gun needs earpro since it's not nearly as loud or high pitched, but straight air does need it.
When I blow out the air trap in the back its so loud! will do, thanks for looking out
please its been four months, I need more videos
. I hope youre still working on it and didnt lose interest.
Had a very busy few months, moving, renovations, exams. There will be a video for February 👌🏻
Nice job man . I would like to do this too when i get the money to purchase the project car . keep up the great work
Such a cool series. Looking forward to the next episode!
Woop woop, Corolla time!
Ye buddy
what a fantastic project
Not gonna lie, I'm just some random that had this video show up in my feed, and i wish i had known you were doing something like this beforehand so i could give you some advice.
With deoxidine, (rust converter/phosphoric acid) you need to apply it with a scotch-brite pad and rub/key it into the surface of the metal and really deeply into the left over rusty pits. The reason you use a scotch pad is the acid will not penetrate into "deep" rust by itself, it will only convert that very top layer. You ideally need to remove as much rust as practically possible with a wire wheel first and use the acid as the final solution for the small bits you either missed or cannot get to.
From there you immediately wipe it off with a damp wet rag before it dries, which you semi frequently rinse out in a bucket of water. It seems counter intuitive at first but the wet rag actually dilutes the excessive acid and helps spread it out on the panel. If you've done it correctly, your panel will have this almost tacky looking clear coat effect, that is silver/blue in colour. This is a fine layer of acid that is converting and temporarily protecting the panel.
If you leave straight acid to dry, it will form thick white layers that will not come off very easily. It will clog and ruin sandpaper quickly and you will consume a lot of denatured alcohol and rags. Ask me how i know.
When you are ready to progress, simply use a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water in a spray bottle, spray the panel down and then wipe off the acid with some clean rags until all the acid is removed (the panel will go a slight orange/rainbow color when bare and the rags will go black/grey). Do a final pass again with prep-sol and rags + a tack rag + air gun to remove any lint.
I know the water seems counterintuitive but it dilutes and removes the remaining acid and the alcohol binds with the water and allows it to evaporate off the surface with little to no trace.
From here you should be mixing up and getting ready to apply a 2k epoxy metal sealer.
Unfortunately you've experienced exactly what happens when you do not remove the acid. The paint "fries up" absolutely everywhere because it is reacting with the primer (similar to paint stripper). This is also why you either completely avoid or very carefully use phosphoric etch primers over existing repairs like 1k primer and bog because it WILL react with stuff.
Most people do not acid etch primers these days, at all, unless they are trying to stick primer to a hard to stick to substrate, like aluminum and galvanized steel. Even then we have modern epoxy primers that do a better job.
I suggest before going any further, you look up these two TH-cam channels. "the gunman", hes an Aussie fella that has shared countless hours of real world advice in all aspects of painting and gun setup. The other is "Astill Design" who is another Aussie custom car builder, who has been doing this work since the dawn of time. He has recently filmed a series of videos that cover surface prep, what products to use (with 1v1 interviews with PPG), where to use them, how to use them, how to apply bog, how to apply poly filler, as well as tips on gun size. I will admit that Astill is what i would consider high end in terms of what sand paper and what tools he has access too but the fundamentals are all there.
Both of these guys are an absolute wealth of information which should come in VERY handy on your build.
ill finish off by saying that im not trying to beat you down in any way, if anything its exciting to see people getting out there and having a go at this stuff. I just think, if you can avoid making unnecessary mistakes (like what i have in the past), you'll be much better for it. Good Luck :)}
Edit: oh and avoid 1k products as much as possible. They are for hobbyist, quick spot repair and quick fix industrial stuff for farmers. The primers are not water proof and they will react with basically anything (thinners, prepsol, metho, sometimes even 2k paint) and they are NOT UV stable. Basically the only 1k product i would use now days is epoxy primer for stuff i dont really care about or doesnt see the sun (engine bay for example) and 1k seam sealer. Everything else is trash.
Hello. I love that car. Hey, question, do you know what will you do for suspension? I am building a te27 trueno and installing a F22c engine on it and I would like to get some ideas for the suspension. Thank you
I’m actually not too sure at this point, but I need to start doing some research. I want a smooth ride, not too stiff. I was hoping to find some Bilstein inserts for the front shocks, and b6 shocks for the back, and just clean up the leaf springs. What have you researched so far, I’m curious?
thank you for the feedback...
good job!! looks pretty good despite the wet spots crusting off. do thinner coats and mist more. also dig your playlist
patiently waiting for the next episode 😀🙂😅😂🥲😢😭😳😰😠😶🌫️
Great job man! To me, that paint job looks absolutely mint and id be ecstatic if the undercarriage of any of my cars looked like that.
Thanks man, we'll see how long it lasts!
You're going to blow up dude. amazed you havent already
one of your best videos so far love the editing
Thanks babe.
Awesome job. I really respect your perseverance of doing everything the correct way, even if it's more work. So glad I subscribed!
Thanks man really appreciate it!
The playlist is 🔥🔥🔥
can't wait to see the next one
The numbers on the side of the mixing cups are so you only need to use one to mix everything
Love these videos, i think the corolla is prem id love to have one, cant wat to see it once youre finished.
Appreciate it man, still a ways to go, but it'll be a good ride
Happy spring time, Joel. Might we be seeing some new content soon? Hoping nothing untoward has derailed your channel.
Happy Spring to you as well! Yes, it hasn’t been derailed, just a lot of life events. Bought house, renovations, moving in, changing jobs, architectural registration. It’s a busy time but nearing the end of it. Looking forward to getting back to the project 👌🏻
I have been watching this video series since the beginning, and now I just realized that I am not subscribed? Or was I and TH-cam unsubscribed me? Either way I'm going to ring the bell.
Waiting for next episode!!
Just tying up a renovation, and right back to the restoration. Very soon!
God! this playlist gave my Saturday morning feels sweet! is amazing to see the Corolla getting some love great job buddy, I love your energy.
I just watched all the Corolla restoration videos. I'm waiting for the next one, when will it come out? I laughed a lot at your soldering, but I appreciate your resilience.
Thanks man, electrician just put in the oven plug for powder coating, time to get back to work!
Cool car
good stuff. it's going gangbusters. the undercarriage doesn't need to look pretty and fluid film is much better rust prevention than bedliner
Thanks man, finally looking pretty. Ya I think this'll be decent protection for now
Great work man!
Appreciate it!
It looks great dude. 🎉
Keep ‘em coming 🎉
They make handle tops you can put on spray paint cans (you know, for next time)
should have taken the time to track one down, was on a time crunch
I feel that. Super satisfying transformation either way! @@sansberlin
Finally! 😍 Looking good! 💯💯
Nice.
Respect from Kenya
Thanks from Canada
I know how much time this must take not only for the repair, but for editing a ton of footage into an engaging video. Thanks for sharing all this with us, and I will continue to look forward to every new video
Ya not everyone understands this would be alot faster if i didnt record it haha. But mostly just personal everyday stuff, life takes time. New episode today.
Great work. Thanks for the video
Anytime, thanks man
Wheres the next episode!!!
I had some important stuff to do!!! Definitely an episode for February
amazing work!
I love your variety of music that you have playing in the background. I wonder if you could share your playlists?
yea, give us them sick tunes
Hey man, i've got the Spotify playlist in the video description, cheers
@@sansberlin This is amazing, thanks. I always love finding new music to listen to.
Love your videos, keep up the good work
Appreciate it
Awesome job 👏 👍🏿 🙌 👌🏼
Dude life has stopped were waiting
Wednesday!
And the great words of the great football player Suuuuuuuiiiiiiiii
Would love to see this in the Aldergrove car show someday
Could be fun, not far away
those thick rubber coats that people put on the underside of trucks rot them real fast if you live anywhere that uses salt on roads .
So i've heard, incredible people still use them
lots of effort but as a everyday car painter I would do things a bit different , while still possible,
light sand it , buy some oversprayable stone chip guard, and spray it over with 2k black paint (wet and shiny) definetly will look better and be more protected ;)
Joel u r a máster … love D chálenge u took .. super
With every video they get better :)
Aww man, right in the feels, appreciate it.
she'll never rust!
We'll see!
i need that rotisserie for my 240sx whenever i do the underbody
Loving the restoration so far! A part of me cant help but think how cool an electric conversion for this chassis would be but the petrolhead wont allow it
I like it the playlist of bolsa nova.😍
nice..more updates please
only problem I noticed is that 2k high build primer usually doesn't seal out moisture, and not sure what paint you used. I would have sprayed a 2 part epoxy 2-3 coats and potentially top coat on that, but only necessary if the epoxy will come into contact with UV rays.
Ya its all going to be under the car so im not too worried. I put as many coats down as possible. I just went to the automotive section of KMS and told them to give me an autobody paint for undercarriage and they shook it up for me. We'll see what happens.
clearcoat is always a pain. its a different monster altogether. I normally thin clearcoats up to 90% thinner
Have you had any problems thinning it way down? The spec on the can said I could only thin it to a ratio of .5 of what I used, so I was afraid to add more?
you should have to lower the pressure. you're putting to much air and that's why your clear disappears and nothing lays on the surface@@sansberlin
What camera and setup do you use for your videos?
Just an Iphone and a tripod
your video quality is amazing . you deserve millions of subs and likes. give it time , stay the same
lots of love man, thanks
Will you be doing power steering, and if so, which one?
I didn’t think about it, but maybe I should, easy switch?
Its supposed to be a bit complicated but you already have the car fully disassembled so it can't be too difficult now. @@sansberlin
Dude like the video should be called learning how to paint
If I was gonna do your car, I would do it just the same way you did it. Clean, Prime, Paint. But afterwards, I would douse everything in "fluid film". It's this thick nasty oily stuff that soaks into everything and displaces moisture. Its not for show cars but its great for daily drivers.
Hmmm I’ll look into it 👌🏻