I use a weapon grade lubricant. It doesn't attract dirt/grime and remains a great lubricant under varying weather conditions. Chains last over 5k and don't have issues. Wax lubes here flake off and don't last long.
My local bike shop insisted that the "blue" wet lube was the best for my gravel bike...all it really did was require more frequent cleaning and it turned the Arizona dust into the grinding paste you speak of! I switched to immersive waxing and now my chain is shiny, quiet, shifts smoother, and easily lasts for 300+ kilometers!
live in Adelaide Australia. Simply go with a good wet lube all year round. BUT. I do multiple immersive solvent bath washes (kero in a jar and shake) finished with an ethanol bath to strip all remaining oils from the chain, then let dry in the sun. Do this first while doing a general service on the bike, so by the time you finish the chain is dry. On the kitchen bench, drip on my lube of choice, rub through several time then wipe down the chain with a clean rag until no more residue (oil) gets left on the rag. Doing this has resulted in chains that last exceptionally well and tend to keep a clean chain for 500-800kms with a service life near 1,000kms before the next bike service.
I've been on the Silca Wax for a while now and couldn't be happier for my dry climate. One way to make it faster is to have two waxed chains for your bike but I just top up with the drip-on wax and give it a fresh dunk in the melted wax every 1000km or so. I recall Josh recommending this procedure on the Marginal Gains Podcast and it's worked well for me. However, the best part, the best part, the best part, is how clean the waxed chain is. Especially for a bike that's stored indoors or is on the trainer a lot of the time. In the latter case, it's especially nice because my white cat doesn't end up with black streaks down her back anymore.
I'm actually very happy with the Super Secret Chain Coating. I did a full imersion over night in that, and top it up every now and then. Chain always clean, and no streching of the chain since 3k kilometers. BUT there is one major problem: All the Silca wax products haven't been available in Germany since months! They are stronger in advertising than in production, it seems ..
I've just started waxing my chain after burning through a chain in 1500km over the winter. Every week I degreased the chain and applied fresh lube. Using just regular 'dinner' candles from the hardware store I've gone 2000km and I've got zero wear. I spend less time cleaning and more time riding. Now it's just a weekly drop in the hot wax bucket and good to go for another week. Cassette and chain rings stay clean and I've not found a need to do any cleaning. Now to find a way to get that silca secrete wax where I live to see if it's even better.
Been using Silca hot wax for about 9 months now on my race bike which I’ve done about 5000 miles on including on the turbo. Got 2 chains which I rotate and haven’t registered any wear yet. The best thing for me is how clean it is. I can work on my bike with light coloured clothes with no worry about stains. It takes about 2 mins of actual work to rewax the chain as you just carry on with other tasks while heating the wax and then waiting for it to cool. Personally I think it’s actually less effort than a lubed chain as I have NEVER had to clean my drive train since waxing! Granted I have another bike I use in the winter and when it’s wet but it’s so much easier than using degreaser trying to clean an oily chain.
I'm a "waxer". I have one chain on bike and four waxed chains ready to use. When the wax is off I take a prepared chain. When I take the last chain I clean and rewax the used ones.
2:40 I have never known paraffin wax to be water soluble. In fact, a quick search on the inter web will confirm that paraffin wax is not water soluble. Therefore, wet environments should have no ill effect on a properly waxed chain. Cleaning a waxed chain with boiling water from a kettle may release some wax, but you really need a warm/hot non-polar solvent to really release the wax.
The boys got this confused, it's not water soluble, but will melt off in boiling water. In a long wet ride it will wear off, but won't dissolve as they implied, you are correct.
I've long wondered why they say wax comes off on the wet. Jam and jelly jars are sealed in paraffin and don't dissolve. Candles are paraffin and won't dissolve in water. I would think oil lube would get washed off easier.
TBH my Silica hot waxed chain got me through 3/4 of the Dirty (and pretty wet) Riever this weekend. Topped it up with a drip wax (Weldtite) for the remainder. Maybe not optimal but good to go. Will wash and redo it today. Simple, no mess. Even workable for multi day events really as all you need to clean the thing is hot water.
I saw a video on yt which had a great tip for ultrasonic cleaners which I feel is relevant. They recommended having you cleaning (or waxing) solutions in plastic vessels which you then place you dirty bits in. Submerging the container with dirty bits and cleaning solution in ultrasonic cleaner tub which just needs plain water to conduct the the vibrations. Less mess and more use out of your cleaning solutions.
I find immersion waxing quite easy once I had the stuff I need, and I'm a mechanical anti-talent. My chains now last an incredibly long time. Also I like the Silca version best. Each application lasts longer than the other ones I've tried. I do tend to avoid riding in the rain.
I'm using on my MTB and road bike since a good year Squirt Wax and I'm very satisfied about this. I'm also applying it to my girlfriend her gravel bike which she also uses to commute to work. I'm considering later on this year to invest in the tools for immersive waxing. I'm never going back to dirty oil based lubricants for my chain!
@@kart182- He doesn't say that. But the questioner was wondering why there'd been a sudden change of sponsor. The implication is that the previous sponsor's product had been found wanting in some way. In other words, last week's wonder-product has become this week's garbage because the new sponsor's stuff is sooooo much better. Allegedly. Sponsorship and endorsements are a minefield; one week you're praising something, the next week you've signed a contract that actually FORBIDS you from even mentioning it.
Tipp: Use Wippermann-Connex chains. With the special chain link you don’t even have to use a tool to take the chain off. It makes cleaning much easier.
I have a question about this link: does it ever unlink/disconnect itself on any occasion? Shifts under heavy load during hard efforts/rough roads, bumps etc?
@@simonRt I’ve never experienced a connex chain link unlink while riding BUT can only be placed one direction. If placed upside down your chain will skip in the rear or make a horrible knocking sound .. Something I have personally experienced.
@@simonRt I have absolutely no problem with the link on a shimano chain. You have to use the right size. Use a 11x link on a 11x chain, otherwise you will have problems as described before.
I started waxing with Silca and it’s a blast. I have alternate chains for speed. My drive train is so quiet now, and it is uncanny how clean it is, even after dust and mud.
Most of the time I'm opting for Squirt drip vax and I'm very satisfied with it, it also lasts surprisingly long and it's reasonably cheap here (thanks to a generous supplier it's not uncommon to get a small bottle, which is enough for maybe ten lubrications, for free in a starting pack at local races). For winter riding and most bad weather CX/MTB races I use some wet lube provided by my team's sponsor (it's not one to recommend though…). I'm, however, now considering getting a nice new "good weather only" road bike and for that I'd be tempted to try the hot wax method.
Question: Only 200-300km out of a waxed chain? Does that mean that I have to get my chain off the bike and throw it into the wax pot at least once a week? (and ideally use a new quick link any time). That seems a lot of faff to me.
@@chrisridesbicycles yes but if you have three chains and each one lasts a week, you wax once a fortnight. I've been doing it a year now: never going back
Using a drip wax as a top up can make the chain last for closer to 1000km before it needs a re-immersion- the idea is to use the drip every 200-300km and after about 3-4 applications, then it's time again for a hot melt. But I'm no expert- I got that from Adam at Zero Friction Cycling and Josh at Silca (during his lockdown podcast series).
@@chrisridesbicycles you can use drip on wax if you really don’t have the time. Just that it might be that much more inefficient and more wear to the chain. Still better than oil tho
2 things you need to talk about. 1) you can make your own wax. Food grade paraffin and ptfe powder. No need for the Sponsor brand. 2) besides wet weather issues. I heard many anecdotal comments that wax doesn’t shift well causing a lag. I can’t comment myself.
I've been using waxed chains for about a year now (Shimano Dura Ace for road/gravel and XT for MTB), I have not experience any degradation in shifting performance, but the drivetrain is almost silent. Also, a decent portion of the video talked about how terrible using PTFE is for the environment. Hence if you want to use paraffin wax, by all means, but don't use PTFE.
No Quick Link for Campy. I have tried waxing my chain with the Secret Chain. Only got about 350km before the chain started to make noises. Took about 1 1/2 hours because I had to first clean my chain 3x through an ultrasonic cleaner. Not worth the effort. I have also used the Silca Super Secret Sauce hain lube for a season and found that after every ride my chain wiping cloth would be black. It attracts dirt. Also, you cannot reapply this lube unless your chain is perfectly clean otherwise it just drips off. About 300km. Instead, I have found that the Squirt Long Lasting Chain Lube (wax) lasts longer and can be reapplied onto an existing chain. it's also half the price. I clean my drivetrain after about 400-500km. I get approximately 10,000km per chain. (Record). Even then, it is only slightly stretched. (measured with a digital caliper).
I tried immersing Waxing and drip on Waxing. They give a clean result and other than that they don’t work as well. Wet lubricants are far better last longer and the chains sound quite and feels smooth. With wax it comes off in the 1st few rotations and if you go through a wet patch 😊 or sandy one the chain is exposed. I ended up with rust spots after a shower so back to l lube .. just a bit goes a long way😊
Will just stick with wet lube. I wipe off the chain with dry cloth, and reapply. My 105 chains are now at over 4000km. Checked it with the chain ruler the other day, still good.
I've been using Rock N Roll gold. It is almost dry, and the chain lasts longer than with any other lube I've tried. For my Riv semi mountain bike, I currently use LPS3, which is basically spray on wax. I don't like immersion wax. Besides the hassle, it doesn't last that long, IME.
I used to use Rock N Roll gold, too, but for my conditions where I ride, I've found it much easier to go with the wax. The mechanics at my LBS used to comment on how clean my drivetrain was when I used Rock N Roll gold (was cleaner to the touch on the chain, chainring, cassette, and jockey wheels compared to bikes lubed with other products like Squirt, Wolftooth, T9, etc..). Now with the wax it's even cleaner. Even if the chain only lasts as long as it did with RnR Gold (which was over 3000 miles), I will still be happy with the wax because it takes less frequent maintenance than the RnR used to as far as cleaning the chain and reapplying lube. I've got almost 1000 miles with an initial submersion, one drip reapplication, and just recently another resubmersion in the wax. The chain is quiet and smooth and doesn't show any wear yet. If I ever go back to another lube, though, it'll probably be RnR gold. No complaints about it!
@@jonathonbakker4442 I haven't tried wax submersion in ages, but as I recall it lasted about 1500 miles. This was when I was young and raced -- only about a month at the time. Too much hassle to do every month. Maybe now that there are more specialized products I should give it another try. Also, I don't ride _anywhere_ close to that much these days.🤣 I should also mention I was a bike mechanic when I was in high school and college, and it was easier for me to pop off my chain at work, put it in the solvent tank, reinstall and relube. That's about 2 minutes work overall, not counting a bit of soak time.
@@gregmuon Yeah, there's a time cost for sure, and the convenience factor of working in a shop is through the roof. I definitely don't have that! :-) I dip two chains at once and that saves some stove time, but it's a trade-off. In the end, if you're happy with what you're using, and it suits you, leave well enough alone. Happy riding!
I've been using Silca hot wax with its Super Secret drip wax between hot wax emersion treatments and can't overstate how pleased I've been with the results. I do one thing before follow-up hot wax treatments. I put 99% rubbing alcohol in a jar, drop my waxed chain in, shake vigorously and then remove the chain. This removes most of the debris that has collected on the chain and prevents that debris from getting mixed in with my hot wax solution. Takes essentially no time and keeps that precious Silca Hot Wax as clean as the day I bought it. ❤️
@@gcntech Hello GCN FOLKS!!! I really don't think so. By every metric that I would rate a chain lube, waxing is at the top for me. Just not having to deal with the "Black Lube Stains of Death" from dirty chains is enough reason for me! 🤣🤣🤣 Like many, I mitigate the time it takes to wax chains by doing several at once as waxing three chains takes, for all practical purposes, the same time as one. I don't live in Great Britain so it doesn't rain every day here 🙄. If I do ride in the rain, I've not really had any issues. But I do rewax with Silca Super Secret chain lube at the end of any wet weather riding-once the chain has thoroughly dried. Eazy Peezy. P.S. I know I sound like a paid advertisement for Silca products. But I am just a very satisfied customer and am happy to see they are now one of your sponsors. 👏👏👏
I use wd 40 but its for bikes specifically chain lube from Canadian Tire and it says on it All Conditions or dry or wet seems to be perfectly fine not a lot of dirt attracted.
Erm, immersion wax (MSW for example) is not water soluble, you can clean off wax with boiling water because it melts the wax, not because it dissolves it. Rain will tint wash it off. It will only last a few hundred (ZFC recommends 300) km as the wax is forced off the pins when under load and although it moves back it is gradually depleted and dirt does work it’s way in eventually. One fresh coat of MSW happily lasted all the dirty reiver for me this year and the chain was still happily running smooth, not needing any top up. Immersion waxing automatically;y removes all the dirt each time you do it (sometHing you can be less sure of with drip on lubricants. And finally, and this may come as a shock for you Olly :). Have more than one chain. Then you can just put a freshly waxed chain, and re wax multiple ones when you have time 🤷♂️
Bought last week these Silca wax resin and drip lube from sigma sports and also the wax heater mylee from amazon. Going to change my chainring and chain next week. Great video GCN💯👍
I just did the same a couple of weeks ago..! All of these waxing videos keep popping up on my feed and I decided to try it out... I couldn't be happier with my experience thus far! I haven't ridden outside yet (crappy weather where I am), so my experience is still limited to the trainer (which has been immaculate-- why did I wait so long??). But I have a fully hot melt chain on my road bike just waiting for a nice day to blast it out!
Ollie I greatly appreciate this video and your perfect timing, I’ve been on the fence about waxing the chain on my bike for the lack of knowledge of how long the wax would it last on the chain and the fear of if it would attract more dirt than the regular lube I live in California and although I don’t necessarily ride my bike when it rains or ride on wet conditions some of the roads I ride on are pretty dusty and that’s has always been my concern I’ve seen the Silca Brand and that’s what I was considering to begin with and you just pretty much solidified my decision Thank you for being able to answer and clarify my question and fear’s with this video, thank you again
@@timyaiser I remember when it first came out back in the early/mid 90’s. It was revolutionary stuff. Before this you had basic wet lubes and old retro guys that waxed chains. Now it’s the young generation waxing chains and old retro guys dripping stuff on their chains. 🤷🏼♂️😂
Immersive Wax does seem like a big PITA but once you get your head around it it's the easiest thing ever and it actually saves you time. The 15-30 mins for re-waxing a chain is 15-30 mins NOT spent using harsh chemicals to clean black crap off of The chain, chainring(s), cassette, jockey wheels, frame, clothing etc. And most of that time is just waiting for things to heat up/cool down. Run 2 chains in rotation and you cut that time in half. Even the first clean of a new chain does not have to be time consuming if you get the chains in advance of needing them. You can just go through the stages of degreasing over a few days or longer, each stage taking literally 2 mins of your actual time, as long as they are fully submerged in the solvent, or the IPA/Meth's (in a sealed container to prevent evaporation) they are 100% protected from corrosion. I've literally left chains in the final solvent (white spirit) wash/soak for WEEKS while I wait for my old chains to hit 0.5%. I highly recommend people thinking of waxing check out Zero Friction Cycling's website and YT channel. Adam has got chain waxing down to a fine and efficient art, and totally demystifies the whole process.
I'm a real fan of hot wax for chains, but I have to take issue with a couple of things Ollie says. In my experience, a hot-dip chain wax lasts for ages. I have a hub-geared bike, and I don't need to do anything to the drivechain from one month to the next (riding about 800-1000 km/month). If it looks grubby I wipe it down with a paste of beeswax and turpentine, which leaves a thin coat on the outside and stops rust. I re-do the molten wax treatment maybe every 3 months. Also, I'm surprised to hear a chemistry PhD say that wax is soluble in water. It's not, and in my experience doesn't wash off in the rain.
Someone in another comment section wrote that the chain doesnt have to be cleaned. The hot wax bath will solute all the factory grease. What are your thoughts on that. I mean it would make the process much more easy!
Ollie, you mentioned that both hot wax and drip on wax aren't as good for wet rides. Does that mean that they could also come off when washing the bike? If so, do you have recommendations on bike washing to prevent problems for chain wax?
Wax doesn't really prevent corrosion, after washing bike you should dry the chain, especially if using wax. You might already do this, but this means that after a ride in the rain you should also dry it and even still rust can form after a couple of hours in limited amounts
I prefer dry lube most of the time but I've had problems with dry lube chains seizing after prolonged storage (like over winter). So if a bike is used infrequently or stored for a while, wet lube it first.
I've started doing proper waxing last year and I will never go back to any drip-on lubes. And the process itself is pretty easy when you get used to it. I am using basic paraffin with no additives and I also rewax about every 300km
Why not reach out to your local club and ride buddies, often the local cycling community is a great source of knowledge. A waxed chain should be a great option but the riders in your area will be able to tell you a little more.
Dry lubes are essentially wet lubes that have a quick drying carrier (or very little of it), so the explanation Ollie gave covers it... he just didn't specify. Zero Friction Cycling goes in depth into this on their channel.
@@bateriayvr8988 i thought dry lube is for dry, dusty conditions. But thanks, i think gcn recomennded muc-off dry lube in the past, so I'm using that. But i will probably try something else in the future.
I have a question about this link: does it ever unlink/disconnect itself on any occasion? Shifts under heavy load during hard efforts, rough roads, bumps etc?
Ollie, you're a bright cookie. You may be correct so 'trust but verify' apply. How would you measure any gains and prove efficiency savings? What is the precision statement on the test in perfect or controlled conditions? Forgive me asking this, but this is advertising a product. A hot immersive wax can have any number of additives applied, up to and including paraffinic oils found in Motor Oil, I suspect home brews may be more effective and substantially cheaper.
If due to a particularly long rainy ride on your waxed chain, you decide to add some wet lube to get you through the ride / race, it seems that you would have to do a thorough cleaning of the chain (ie not just boiling water) before applying wax lube again. Do you agree?
What’s the best environmentally friendly lube, a lube which doesn’t constantly drip nasty compounds, metals, oils etc into the environment. Can I oil my chain with vegetable oil or can particularly middle class people oil their chains with extra virgin olive oil.
@@gcntech Actually some yes some not really. i have one fast e bike (assistance to 45km/h) which i put as soon as they put salt on the swiss street back into the garage. My mountainbike i used all year long (but after 14.5years its now over with the bike, parts damaged which you can get including 2 bearing of the suspention. My cheap race bike i used all year, except when snowy or icy conditions because of the grip(just used the mtb as replacement) But im also commuting all around the year with the bicycle except a really few amount of days.
I've been following advice to wipe the chain with isopropyl alcohol after a ride. I then wipe the chain with some GT85. This has been working well. The chain is degreased and dry lubed (Muc-off ceramic) every 2-300 miles. Seems to work well for mostly dry road rides. For off-road though I am inclined to use wet lube, as I had lots of problems with the chain doubling up on shifting recently. I suspecy mud (couldn't see the frame for it!) was the issue. Waxing seems like a lot of effort unless looking for marginal gains.
You use wet lube for off road? Why? Even with dry conditions you have a lot of dust sticking to it and consequently you need to clean your components more frequently. Surely waxing a chain seems time consuming, but I'll try to do it now with 3 chains simultaneously and together with some liquid wax it should last me a while until repeating the whole process. On the other side I'll save money and time, because I dont need all those drivetrain cleaning utensils anymore.
What do you guys think would be best for a very high humidity environment? Rain is hit-or-miss outside of monsoon season, but humidity is a 100% guarantee.
I presume that, when topping up a hot waxed chain, if you want to use a wet lube rather than a drip wax, you should clean the chain thoroughly. I.e. you shouldn’t top up a waxed chain with wet lube?
Tour magazine Germany have tested this to be ~2w less efficient than the SILCA hot wax and 1w less efficient than Super Secret while ptfe is also a toxic 'forever' chemical that is quickly being banned in many countries. Ceramicspeed and Rex also beat paraffin with ptfe and also do not contain toxic chemicals.
I use the Silca hot wax and really rate it. However, I’ve got an ultra gravel race coming up and was planning to top up with the drip on wax every 200km, but now wondering if I should top up with the synergetic wet lube. What would be best?
I recommend Bananaslip/Tru-Tungsten All weather premium to top up, it's about the cheapest of the "hot melt friendly" drip wax lubes, and it gets to work pretty much right away where some of the others need time to soak into the chain, if you top up before you need it you wont have a problem, followed the route of All Points North last year and I did pretty much what you are suggesting with that stuff, took a fresh chain with me, never used it, and the chain on the bike (also new) showed no wear whatsoever after the ride, and it rained non stop one day for about 4 hours.
Ollie, given you’ve done the rift Iceland would you recommend wax or a wet lube for that event. Given all the water crossings I’m wondering if wet lube is the way to go
Two questions: 1. for a drip on wax would it be ok to dry the chain with a hair dryer? It might help with penetration by causing a bit of expansion due to heat and would cause quicker evaporation. Or would it cause deterioration off the lube? 2. Is a so called dry lube ok to use in places where it hardly ever rains? In California we get no rain from June-September.
Mmmmh. So, according to SRAM I need to change the PowerLink if I remove the chain to wax it. That’s 3 EUR. Wax it 6 times and that’s already the price of a new chain. On cost alone, I’ll go for the drip on lube…
Alright, questions! - For a 2x25km commute, is waxing still worth the effort? It would mean waxing every week, and seeing how forgetful I am and it's a commuting bike...ehhhh... - Living in Belgium, juuuuust a hair dryer than the UK, I was wondering if it's a good idea to start with a waxed chain and top up with wet lube when it rains? Be fair, most commuters don't need their rain gear all thàt much, but for the times of that nasty whipping rain combined with a strong headwind I could use a little extra efficiency ( because my frail legs aren't cutting it ). - General lubing question: do you only lube the chain? If I degrease the drivetrain with the ultrasonic cleaner, I also dip in the cassette, derailer with the little wheels; they need lubing to, no? Good show, keep it up :)
1) No, but it's debatable. 2) No. 3) Only lube the chain. That is the only thing with links that need to bend and the only thing to cause friction. Don't degrease the pulley wheels! Good ones have bearings, and you definitely don't want to degrease those.
I've only recently started hot waxing, so maybe this is coming from a lack of experience. But it seems like going down this route will lead to me burning through a ton of quick links. I'll start using KMCs instead of the Shimano/Sram single use, but even still I'm wondering if the overall cost is going to be much different
There are multi-use quick links. So I would suggest you use those. The best solution is Connex Quick Links which can be used over and over and over and require absolutely no tools to disassemble and reassemble.
I've used some "non-reusable" quick links close to 10x. I've never had an issue and will continue doing it. I've broken 5 chains in over 300,000 miles of riding and I've never broken a quicklink of any kind. It's always been a random plate
@@veganpotterthevegan You are right. Usually you can get away with reusing non-reuseable quick links. But I have to ask, "Why?" Quick links that are rated by the manufacturer as reusable are usually the same price. I just bought some Shimano quick links for my Ultegra chain and the reusable ones were the same price as the non-reusable. It was the same situation for other brands that sold both types. Of course, by all means, you do you. But for such an inexpensive bike component, I don't see any logical reason to take the risk, no matter how small.
@Mr. Luigi the why is because I'm using the links that come with the chain so no extra expense is there. I do have some quicklinks on my bike for an emergency though...a 12sp for me and a used 11 and 10 sp links if I wind up helping someone on a ride.
I want to switch to drip wax, and need a new chain too. Should i strip the factory grease off the new chain first (maybe with mineral spirits?) then apply the drip wax?
Definitely. If you don't remove the factory grease first, wax lube will mix with it and turn to a sticky black paste that will get caked over everything.
Let us know what sort of chain lube you use 👇
A spray that says it's suitable to lubricate chains on the label
Remains of old candles 🕯 because its cheap or free.
Enigma ultimate chain wax…. Never looked back…
I use a weapon grade lubricant. It doesn't attract dirt/grime and remains a great lubricant under varying weather conditions. Chains last over 5k and don't have issues. Wax lubes here flake off and don't last long.
I would replace the chain on a pitstop and throw away the old chain away
My local bike shop insisted that the "blue" wet lube was the best for my gravel bike...all it really did was require more frequent cleaning and it turned the Arizona dust into the grinding paste you speak of! I switched to immersive waxing and now my chain is shiny, quiet, shifts smoother, and easily lasts for 300+ kilometers!
have you told this to your local bike shop
Wax submersion is my jam. The process is therapeutic when you become comfortable doing it.
We feel you there! We love those detailed mechanical jobs.
live in Adelaide Australia. Simply go with a good wet lube all year round. BUT. I do multiple immersive solvent bath washes (kero in a jar and shake) finished with an ethanol bath to strip all remaining oils from the chain, then let dry in the sun. Do this first while doing a general service on the bike, so by the time you finish the chain is dry.
On the kitchen bench, drip on my lube of choice, rub through several time then wipe down the chain with a clean rag until no more residue (oil) gets left on the rag.
Doing this has resulted in chains that last exceptionally well and tend to keep a clean chain for 500-800kms with a service life near 1,000kms before the next bike service.
I've been on the Silca Wax for a while now and couldn't be happier for my dry climate. One way to make it faster is to have two waxed chains for your bike but I just top up with the drip-on wax and give it a fresh dunk in the melted wax every 1000km or so. I recall Josh recommending this procedure on the Marginal Gains Podcast and it's worked well for me.
However, the best part, the best part, the best part, is how clean the waxed chain is. Especially for a bike that's stored indoors or is on the trainer a lot of the time. In the latter case, it's especially nice because my white cat doesn't end up with black streaks down her back anymore.
Re: white cat vs black stripe- haha that's awesome! 😆
Hahahah poor cat 😂 Waxed chain is good for the family 🙌
GCN = Global CAT Network.
It's official now.
I don't make the rules... 🤷🏻
I'm actually very happy with the Super Secret Chain Coating. I did a full imersion over night in that, and top it up every now and then. Chain always clean, and no streching of the chain since 3k kilometers.
BUT there is one major problem: All the Silca wax products haven't been available in Germany since months! They are stronger in advertising than in production, it seems ..
I've just started waxing my chain after burning through a chain in 1500km over the winter. Every week I degreased the chain and applied fresh lube. Using just regular 'dinner' candles from the hardware store I've gone 2000km and I've got zero wear. I spend less time cleaning and more time riding. Now it's just a weekly drop in the hot wax bucket and good to go for another week. Cassette and chain rings stay clean and I've not found a need to do any cleaning. Now to find a way to get that silca secrete wax where I live to see if it's even better.
What kind of chain link do you use?
@@soda1264 kmc 11spd
Been using Silca hot wax for about 9 months now on my race bike which I’ve done about 5000 miles on including on the turbo. Got 2 chains which I rotate and haven’t registered any wear yet. The best thing for me is how clean it is. I can work on my bike with light coloured clothes with no worry about stains. It takes about 2 mins of actual work to rewax the chain as you just carry on with other tasks while heating the wax and then waiting for it to cool. Personally I think it’s actually less effort than a lubed chain as I have NEVER had to clean my drive train since waxing! Granted I have another bike I use in the winter and when it’s wet but it’s so much easier than using degreaser trying to clean an oily chain.
Whoop whoop!!! Waxing is the way to go 🙌
I'm a "waxer". I have one chain on bike and four waxed chains ready to use. When the wax is off I take a prepared chain. When I take the last chain I clean and rewax the used ones.
2:40 I have never known paraffin wax to be water soluble. In fact, a quick search on the inter web will confirm that paraffin wax is not water soluble. Therefore, wet environments should have no ill effect on a properly waxed chain. Cleaning a waxed chain with boiling water from a kettle may release some wax, but you really need a warm/hot non-polar solvent to really release the wax.
The boys got this confused, it's not water soluble, but will melt off in boiling water. In a long wet ride it will wear off, but won't dissolve as they implied, you are correct.
just you can read in the bottle "water-proof". When has been wax water soluble??!! Why you are the only person that noticed that??!!
@@jonjo_irure specifically I was referring to his reference to waxing. Check it out. Back up a little. 2:30
I've long wondered why they say wax comes off on the wet. Jam and jelly jars are sealed in paraffin and don't dissolve. Candles are paraffin and won't dissolve in water. I would think oil lube would get washed off easier.
@@HamRadio200 yes, I know, I agree with you. That's why I said that the bottle says it's wateerproof
TBH my Silica hot waxed chain got me through 3/4 of the Dirty (and pretty wet) Riever this weekend. Topped it up with a drip wax (Weldtite) for the remainder. Maybe not optimal but good to go. Will wash and redo it today. Simple, no mess. Even workable for multi day events really as all you need to clean the thing is hot water.
Dirty Riever looked brutal this year 😬 Great job!!! Cool to hear that a waxed chain got you through 🙌
@@gcntech squirted the mech clean a couple of times like. Dread to think what it would've been like with oil... 😱
I saw a video on yt which had a great tip for ultrasonic cleaners which I feel is relevant.
They recommended having you cleaning (or waxing) solutions in plastic vessels which you then place you dirty bits in.
Submerging the container with dirty bits and cleaning solution in ultrasonic cleaner tub which just needs plain water to conduct the the vibrations.
Less mess and more use out of your cleaning solutions.
'Tis the way to go.
I find immersion waxing quite easy once I had the stuff I need, and I'm a mechanical anti-talent. My chains now last an incredibly long time. Also I like the Silca version best. Each application lasts longer than the other ones I've tried. I do tend to avoid riding in the rain.
That is great to hear! It's simple enough if you have the time and space, do you think you'll ever go back to normal lube? 👀
@@gcntech no going back. It's so much better than other lubricants.
@@stuartdryer1352 Agree. So, so much easier than cleaning + lubing. Never going back, and I live in Seattle.
I'm using on my MTB and road bike since a good year Squirt Wax and I'm very satisfied about this. I'm also applying it to my girlfriend her gravel bike which she also uses to commute to work. I'm considering later on this year to invest in the tools for immersive waxing. I'm never going back to dirty oil based lubricants for my chain!
I am a big fan of the Squirt long-lasting Wax. It works very well and can easily be reapplied.
Did you not used to be sponsered by muc-off? They went from besr ro wost over night?
Where in the vid does he say muc off is the worst, or even not good?
@@kart182 they really are some of the worst on the market. Multiple outlets have proven that
This guy works for muck
I’ve tried a lot of different chain lubes and Muc-Off is by far the worst of them.
@@kart182- He doesn't say that. But the questioner was wondering why there'd been a sudden change of sponsor. The implication is that the previous sponsor's product had been found wanting in some way. In other words, last week's wonder-product has become this week's garbage because the new sponsor's stuff is sooooo much better. Allegedly.
Sponsorship and endorsements are a minefield; one week you're praising something, the next week you've signed a contract that actually FORBIDS you from even mentioning it.
Ollie is the new Mister Miyagi ... "Wax on, wax off"
He'll love this 😂
Tipp: Use Wippermann-Connex chains. With the special chain link you don’t even have to use a tool to take the chain off. It makes cleaning much easier.
You can use that link on other chains. Their chains are disappointingly slow but one slow link won't do much harm.
I have a question about this link: does it ever unlink/disconnect itself on any occasion? Shifts under heavy load during hard efforts/rough roads, bumps etc?
@@simonRt I’ve never experienced a connex chain link unlink while riding BUT can only be placed one direction. If placed upside down your chain will skip in the rear or make a horrible knocking sound .. Something I have personally experienced.
@@simonRt I have absolutely no problem with the link on a shimano chain. You have to use the right size. Use a 11x link on a 11x chain, otherwise you will have problems as described before.
I started waxing with Silca and it’s a blast. I have alternate chains for speed. My drive train is so quiet now, and it is uncanny how clean it is, even after dust and mud.
Most of the time I'm opting for Squirt drip vax and I'm very satisfied with it, it also lasts surprisingly long and it's reasonably cheap here (thanks to a generous supplier it's not uncommon to get a small bottle, which is enough for maybe ten lubrications, for free in a starting pack at local races). For winter riding and most bad weather CX/MTB races I use some wet lube provided by my team's sponsor (it's not one to recommend though…). I'm, however, now considering getting a nice new "good weather only" road bike and for that I'd be tempted to try the hot wax method.
Question: Only 200-300km out of a waxed chain? Does that mean that I have to get my chain off the bike and throw it into the wax pot at least once a week? (and ideally use a new quick link any time). That seems a lot of faff to me.
I use reusable KMC links and use three chains in rotation.
@@peterwillson1355 But you still dipp them into the wax pot every 200-300k each?
@@chrisridesbicycles yes but if you have three chains and each one lasts a week, you wax once a fortnight. I've been doing it a year now: never going back
Using a drip wax as a top up can make the chain last for closer to 1000km before it needs a re-immersion- the idea is to use the drip every 200-300km and after about 3-4 applications, then it's time again for a hot melt.
But I'm no expert- I got that from Adam at Zero Friction Cycling and Josh at Silca (during his lockdown podcast series).
@@chrisridesbicycles you can use drip on wax if you really don’t have the time. Just that it might be that much more inefficient and more wear to the chain. Still better than oil tho
Has Ollie been taking tuft lessons from Tadej Pogacar?
Ollie would claim that Tadej copied him 👀
@@gcntech 😅
2 things you need to talk about.
1) you can make your own wax. Food grade paraffin and ptfe powder. No need for the Sponsor brand.
2) besides wet weather issues. I heard many anecdotal comments that wax doesn’t shift well causing a lag. I can’t comment myself.
I've been using waxed chains for about a year now (Shimano Dura Ace for road/gravel and XT for MTB), I have not experience any degradation in shifting performance, but the drivetrain is almost silent. Also, a decent portion of the video talked about how terrible using PTFE is for the environment. Hence if you want to use paraffin wax, by all means, but don't use PTFE.
GCN JAPANもこれくらい有益な情報を流して欲しい。
Agree
No Quick Link for Campy. I have tried waxing my chain with the Secret Chain. Only got about 350km before the chain started to make noises. Took about 1 1/2 hours because I had to first clean my chain 3x through an ultrasonic cleaner. Not worth the effort. I have also used the Silca Super Secret Sauce hain lube for a season and found that after every ride my chain wiping cloth would be black. It attracts dirt. Also, you cannot reapply this lube unless your chain is perfectly clean otherwise it just drips off. About 300km. Instead, I have found that the Squirt Long Lasting Chain Lube (wax) lasts longer and can be reapplied onto an existing chain. it's also half the price. I clean my drivetrain after about 400-500km. I get approximately 10,000km per chain. (Record). Even then, it is only slightly stretched. (measured with a digital caliper).
I tried immersing Waxing and drip on Waxing. They give a clean result and other than that they don’t work as well. Wet lubricants are far better last longer and the chains sound quite and feels smooth. With wax it comes off in the 1st few rotations and if you go through a wet patch 😊 or sandy one the chain is exposed. I ended up with rust spots after a shower so back to l lube .. just a bit goes a long way😊
Will just stick with wet lube. I wipe off the chain with dry cloth, and reapply. My 105 chains are now at over 4000km. Checked it with the chain ruler the other day, still good.
I've been using Rock N Roll gold. It is almost dry, and the chain lasts longer than with any other lube I've tried. For my Riv semi mountain bike, I currently use LPS3, which is basically spray on wax. I don't like immersion wax. Besides the hassle, it doesn't last that long, IME.
I used to use Rock N Roll gold, too, but for my conditions where I ride, I've found it much easier to go with the wax. The mechanics at my LBS used to comment on how clean my drivetrain was when I used Rock N Roll gold (was cleaner to the touch on the chain, chainring, cassette, and jockey wheels compared to bikes lubed with other products like Squirt, Wolftooth, T9, etc..). Now with the wax it's even cleaner. Even if the chain only lasts as long as it did with RnR Gold (which was over 3000 miles), I will still be happy with the wax because it takes less frequent maintenance than the RnR used to as far as cleaning the chain and reapplying lube. I've got almost 1000 miles with an initial submersion, one drip reapplication, and just recently another resubmersion in the wax. The chain is quiet and smooth and doesn't show any wear yet. If I ever go back to another lube, though, it'll probably be RnR gold. No complaints about it!
@@jonathonbakker4442 I haven't tried wax submersion in ages, but as I recall it lasted about 1500 miles. This was when I was young and raced -- only about a month at the time. Too much hassle to do every month. Maybe now that there are more specialized products I should give it another try. Also, I don't ride _anywhere_ close to that much these days.🤣 I should also mention I was a bike mechanic when I was in high school and college, and it was easier for me to pop off my chain at work, put it in the solvent tank, reinstall and relube. That's about 2 minutes work overall, not counting a bit of soak time.
@@gregmuon Yeah, there's a time cost for sure, and the convenience factor of working in a shop is through the roof. I definitely don't have that! :-) I dip two chains at once and that saves some stove time, but it's a trade-off. In the end, if you're happy with what you're using, and it suits you, leave well enough alone. Happy riding!
I've been using Silca hot wax with its Super Secret drip wax between hot wax emersion treatments and can't overstate how pleased I've been with the results. I do one thing before follow-up hot wax treatments. I put 99% rubbing alcohol in a jar, drop my waxed chain in, shake vigorously and then remove the chain. This removes most of the debris that has collected on the chain and prevents that debris from getting mixed in with my hot wax solution. Takes essentially no time and keeps that precious Silca Hot Wax as clean as the day I bought it. ❤️
We love to hear it!!! 🙌 Do you think you would ever go back to an oil based lube?
@@gcntech Hello GCN FOLKS!!! I really don't think so. By every metric that I would rate a chain lube, waxing is at the top for me. Just not having to deal with the "Black Lube Stains of Death" from dirty chains is enough reason for me! 🤣🤣🤣 Like many, I mitigate the time it takes to wax chains by doing several at once as waxing three chains takes, for all practical purposes, the same time as one. I don't live in Great Britain so it doesn't rain every day here 🙄. If I do ride in the rain, I've not really had any issues. But I do rewax with Silca Super Secret chain lube at the end of any wet weather riding-once the chain has thoroughly dried. Eazy Peezy. P.S. I know I sound like a paid advertisement for Silca products. But I am just a very satisfied customer and am happy to see they are now one of your sponsors. 👏👏👏
I use wd 40 but its for bikes specifically chain lube from Canadian Tire and it says on it All Conditions or dry or wet seems to be perfectly fine not a lot of dirt attracted.
Muc off dry lube when it's dry or riding indoors, Muc off wet lube in winter or when it's wet :)
Erm, immersion wax (MSW for example) is not water soluble, you can clean off wax with boiling water because it melts the wax, not because it dissolves it. Rain will tint wash it off. It will only last a few hundred (ZFC recommends 300) km as the wax is forced off the pins when under load and although it moves back it is gradually depleted and dirt does work it’s way in eventually. One fresh coat of MSW happily lasted all the dirty reiver for me this year and the chain was still happily running smooth, not needing any top up. Immersion waxing automatically;y removes all the dirt each time you do it (sometHing you can be less sure of with drip on lubricants. And finally, and this may come as a shock for you Olly :). Have more than one chain. Then you can just put a freshly waxed chain, and re wax multiple ones when you have time 🤷♂️
Bought last week these Silca wax resin and drip lube from sigma sports and also the wax heater mylee from amazon. Going to change my chainring and chain next week. Great video GCN💯👍
I just did the same a couple of weeks ago..! All of these waxing videos keep popping up on my feed and I decided to try it out... I couldn't be happier with my experience thus far! I haven't ridden outside yet (crappy weather where I am), so my experience is still limited to the trainer (which has been immaculate-- why did I wait so long??). But I have a fully hot melt chain on my road bike just waiting for a nice day to blast it out!
Glad we could help! Let us know how it goes 🙌
Ollie I greatly appreciate this video and your perfect timing, I’ve been on the fence about waxing the chain on my bike for the lack of knowledge of how long the wax would it last on the chain and the fear of if it would attract more dirt than the regular lube
I live in California and although I don’t necessarily ride my bike when it rains or ride on wet conditions some of the roads I ride on are pretty dusty and that’s has always been my concern
I’ve seen the Silca Brand and that’s what I was considering to begin with and you just pretty much solidified my decision
Thank you for being able to answer and clarify my question and fear’s with this video, thank you again
White Lightning clean ride because we don’t ride in the rain in the desert. And it’s worked for me the last 25+ years. And it’s affordable.
I’ve been buying this at Walmart for 10 years.
@@timyaiser I remember when it first came out back in the early/mid 90’s. It was revolutionary stuff. Before this you had basic wet lubes and old retro guys that waxed chains. Now it’s the young generation waxing chains and old retro guys dripping stuff on their chains. 🤷🏼♂️😂
@@ShowMeThePony
Yup! My local bike shop carries it too, so you know it’s good stuff.
Immersive Wax does seem like a big PITA but once you get your head around it it's the easiest thing ever and it actually saves you time.
The 15-30 mins for re-waxing a chain is 15-30 mins NOT spent using harsh chemicals to clean black crap off of The chain, chainring(s), cassette, jockey wheels, frame, clothing etc. And most of that time is just waiting for things to heat up/cool down. Run 2 chains in rotation and you cut that time in half.
Even the first clean of a new chain does not have to be time consuming if you get the chains in advance of needing them. You can just go through the stages of degreasing over a few days or longer, each stage taking literally 2 mins of your actual time, as long as they are fully submerged in the solvent, or the IPA/Meth's (in a sealed container to prevent evaporation) they are 100% protected from corrosion. I've literally left chains in the final solvent (white spirit) wash/soak for WEEKS while I wait for my old chains to hit 0.5%.
I highly recommend people thinking of waxing check out Zero Friction Cycling's website and YT channel. Adam has got chain waxing down to a fine and efficient art, and totally demystifies the whole process.
I'm a real fan of hot wax for chains, but I have to take issue with a couple of things Ollie says. In my experience, a hot-dip chain wax lasts for ages. I have a hub-geared bike, and I don't need to do anything to the drivechain from one month to the next (riding about 800-1000 km/month). If it looks grubby I wipe it down with a paste of beeswax and turpentine, which leaves a thin coat on the outside and stops rust. I re-do the molten wax treatment maybe every 3 months. Also, I'm surprised to hear a chemistry PhD say that wax is soluble in water. It's not, and in my experience doesn't wash off in the rain.
I bought Squirt because I heard it was one the best from a few people, all it does is gunk up my jockey wheels ☹️
Having full length mudguards also helps to keep the dirt from the chain.
We've got a lot of love for the full length mudguard 🙌
No bias at all!
Has anyone noticed that GCN replies mainly to those who mention that they too use Silca?
Someone in another comment section wrote that the chain doesnt have to be cleaned. The hot wax bath will solute all the factory grease. What are your thoughts on that. I mean it would make the process much more easy!
From Muc-off the best to Silca the best 🤣🤣🤣
Ollie, you mentioned that both hot wax and drip on wax aren't as good for wet rides. Does that mean that they could also come off when washing the bike? If so, do you have recommendations on bike washing to prevent problems for chain wax?
Wax doesn't really prevent corrosion, after washing bike you should dry the chain, especially if using wax. You might already do this, but this means that after a ride in the rain you should also dry it and even still rust can form after a couple of hours in limited amounts
I prefer dry lube most of the time but I've had problems with dry lube chains seizing after prolonged storage (like over winter). So if a bike is used infrequently or stored for a while, wet lube it first.
I'm wondering if I should try my bees' wax. If I accidently over wax the chain, I just got myself a golden one 🤜🤛
Nice
I've started doing proper waxing last year and I will never go back to any drip-on lubes. And the process itself is pretty easy when you get used to it. I am using basic paraffin with no additives and I also rewax about every 300km
Recently started using Silca Synergetic… amazing stuff chain stays cleaner and my drive chain is the quietest it’s ever been. Can’t hear a thing.
Beautiful! Nothing better than a perfectly clean silent drive 👌
The Silca wax system (immersion + drip) is the real winner here.
funny that.....
What would be a good lube for living in Phoenix, Arizona? Yes it’s dry but it’s also incredibly hot. Would the heat effect a waxed chain?
Why not reach out to your local club and ride buddies, often the local cycling community is a great source of knowledge. A waxed chain should be a great option but the riders in your area will be able to tell you a little more.
Thanks for this--you answered a bunch of questions I had.
That's what we like to hear 🙌
the drip on wax bottle says water-proof... and when has been wax water soluble?
There are water-soluble waxes but paraffin wax certainly is not.
@@BixbyConsequence But a water based lube wouldn't rust the chain before drying? I don't undertand
Love you too Oli
9:19 "....just have the lube on the inside of the chain..." - editor: "Hold my b-roll" 😂
What about dry lube?
Dry lubes are essentially wet lubes that have a quick drying carrier (or very little of it), so the explanation Ollie gave covers it... he just didn't specify. Zero Friction Cycling goes in depth into this on their channel.
@@bateriayvr8988 i thought dry lube is for dry, dusty conditions. But thanks, i think gcn recomennded muc-off dry lube in the past, so I'm using that. But i will probably try something else in the future.
@@erikfarkas7868 Muc-off dry lubes are some of the very worst lubes on the market. I wrongly used them for tens of thousands of miles.
I have been using Gulf wax for almost 2 years. I have 4 chains to rotate and also using the tool less wipperman chain link. So far so good.
Nice work!! 🙌
I have a question about this link: does it ever unlink/disconnect itself on any occasion? Shifts under heavy load during hard efforts, rough roads, bumps etc?
I've tried a few different drip waxes, and I stick to the one that can easily survive 300 km of gravel without needing to be reapplied.
Which one do you use?
@@DieSchnitzel007 I use Smoove.
Ollie, you're a bright cookie. You may be correct so 'trust but verify' apply. How would you measure any gains and prove efficiency savings? What is the precision statement on the test in perfect or controlled conditions? Forgive me asking this, but this is advertising a product. A hot immersive wax can have any number of additives applied, up to and including paraffinic oils found in Motor Oil, I suspect home brews may be more effective and substantially cheaper.
If due to a particularly long rainy ride on your waxed chain, you decide to add some wet lube to get you through the ride / race, it seems that you would have to do a thorough cleaning of the chain (ie not just boiling water) before applying wax lube again. Do you agree?
What’s the best environmentally friendly lube, a lube which doesn’t constantly drip nasty compounds, metals, oils etc into the environment. Can I oil my chain with vegetable oil or can particularly middle class people oil their chains with extra virgin olive oil.
Really useful and informative. Aside from the different lines two other things stuck with me - cross chain (great tip) and your Pog hair tuft 😂
Love you too Dr Bridgewood! Outbound is coming!
Thats why i dont use wax in winter but in summer is normaly use it.
Do you have separate bikes for winter and summer? 👀
@@gcntech Actually some yes some not really. i have one fast e bike (assistance to 45km/h) which i put as soon as they put salt on the swiss street back into the garage.
My mountainbike i used all year long (but after 14.5years its now over with the bike, parts damaged which you can get including 2 bearing of the suspention. My cheap race bike i used all year, except when snowy or icy conditions because of the grip(just used the mtb as replacement)
But im also commuting all around the year with the bicycle except a really few amount of days.
Currently on drip on wax. I don’t really ride outdoors in the rain.
White Lightning Clean Ride. There is no substitute.
Thanks for the detailed video, Ollie.
Awesome Explanation Olie
Most of us mix immersive waxing and add the drip on, then you can run 1000 miles between immersion treatments
Would you ever go back to a wet lube? 👀
What if you put the drip on lube into a Tupperware and dip it in there?
Just seal it up at the end so it stays fresh?
Which one is better for the snow? It means dry air, and lots of mud/salt...
I've been following advice to wipe the chain with isopropyl alcohol after a ride. I then wipe the chain with some GT85. This has been working well. The chain is degreased and dry lubed (Muc-off ceramic) every 2-300 miles. Seems to work well for mostly dry road rides. For off-road though I am inclined to use wet lube, as I had lots of problems with the chain doubling up on shifting recently. I suspecy mud (couldn't see the frame for it!) was the issue. Waxing seems like a lot of effort unless looking for marginal gains.
You use wet lube for off road? Why? Even with dry conditions you have a lot of dust sticking to it and consequently you need to clean your components more frequently. Surely waxing a chain seems time consuming, but I'll try to do it now with 3 chains simultaneously and together with some liquid wax it should last me a while until repeating the whole process. On the other side I'll save money and time, because I dont need all those drivetrain cleaning utensils anymore.
I thought cycling was all about effort 😂😂
@@Xarx42 Maybe I'll give it a go 🙂
BRUNOX all-weather lube is the best. Doesn't wash-out during rain.
on my good old steel bikes, 3in1 has NEVER failed me.
How do you lube pivot points , high low adjusters etc. without contaminating wax.
So want to wax but besides not having the time, I don’t have all that equipment!
grin every time he says "lube"
Nice Silca advert!
What do you guys think would be best for a very high humidity environment? Rain is hit-or-miss outside of monsoon season, but humidity is a 100% guarantee.
I use Finish Line Dry Lube with good results (to me). Where does that fall in the lube-wax spectrum?
It's just a dry lube. I'm using it as well but I am looking for a replacement since the telfon used in it is super harmful to the environment 😒
Ollie rocking the Tadeg hair flip
Most of the products that your side recommended are very expensive :-( I am using Chepark and Wend they are very good🙂
I presume that, when topping up a hot waxed chain, if you want to use a wet lube rather than a drip wax, you should clean the chain thoroughly. I.e. you shouldn’t top up a waxed chain with wet lube?
I'm going to have nightmares about that little strand of hairs sticking up! Maybe some chain lube on there to tame it?
I use quality paraffin wax and mix in fine PTFE powder. Must less expensive than name brands and just as effective.
PTFE is terrible for the planet and not as good as modern additives in terms of drag
Tour magazine Germany have tested this to be ~2w less efficient than the SILCA hot wax and 1w less efficient than Super Secret while ptfe is also a toxic 'forever' chemical that is quickly being banned in many countries. Ceramicspeed and Rex also beat paraffin with ptfe and also do not contain toxic chemicals.
I use the Silca hot wax and really rate it. However, I’ve got an ultra gravel race coming up and was planning to top up with the drip on wax every 200km, but now wondering if I should top up with the synergetic wet lube. What would be best?
I recommend Bananaslip/Tru-Tungsten All weather premium to top up, it's about the cheapest of the "hot melt friendly" drip wax lubes, and it gets to work pretty much right away where some of the others need time to soak into the chain, if you top up before you need it you wont have a problem, followed the route of All Points North last year and I did pretty much what you are suggesting with that stuff, took a fresh chain with me, never used it, and the chain on the bike (also new) showed no wear whatsoever after the ride, and it rained non stop one day for about 4 hours.
@@chris1275cc thanks! I will look into that.
Ollie, given you’ve done the rift Iceland would you recommend wax or a wet lube for that event. Given all the water crossings I’m wondering if wet lube is the way to go
Where i live, in the summer when it's dry, my local bike shop recommends a dry lube because it doesn't attract dirt. I use Muc-Off's dry lube.
Two questions: 1. for a drip on wax would it be ok to dry the chain with a hair dryer? It might help with penetration by causing a bit of expansion due to heat and would cause quicker evaporation. Or would it cause deterioration off the lube? 2. Is a so called dry lube ok to use in places where it hardly ever rains? In California we get no rain from June-September.
I heat my drip wax slightly before applying it, makes it more viscous and dries slightly faster
With that hair tuff I'm thinking Oli going for the Pogacar look for his next marginal gain?
Nice to see Ollie's hair-tuft tribute to Pogacar.
Mmmmh. So, according to SRAM I need to change the PowerLink if I remove the chain to wax it. That’s 3 EUR. Wax it 6 times and that’s already the price of a new chain. On cost alone, I’ll go for the drip on lube…
Replace your SRAM PowerLink with a reusable master link from Wipperman or KMC.
I've reused powerlinks close to 10x without issue on many chains
What is the light/soft music in the background.....sounds like my phone alarm!
Alright, questions!
- For a 2x25km commute, is waxing still worth the effort? It would mean waxing every week, and seeing how forgetful I am and it's a commuting bike...ehhhh...
- Living in Belgium, juuuuust a hair dryer than the UK, I was wondering if it's a good idea to start with a waxed chain and top up with wet lube when it rains? Be fair, most commuters don't need their rain gear all thàt much, but for the times of that nasty whipping rain combined with a strong headwind I could use a little extra efficiency ( because my frail legs aren't cutting it ).
- General lubing question: do you only lube the chain? If I degrease the drivetrain with the ultrasonic cleaner, I also dip in the cassette, derailer with the little wheels; they need lubing to, no?
Good show, keep it up :)
1) No, but it's debatable.
2) No.
3) Only lube the chain. That is the only thing with links that need to bend and the only thing to cause friction. Don't degrease the pulley wheels! Good ones have bearings, and you definitely don't want to degrease those.
@@JanTrenson Alright, thanks!
My pulley wheels have bushings, alas. Plain old 12yo Deore's. So oof ^^.
Ok, but what about urban commuters?
Weldtite all weather with teflon. Best all round oil you can get, cheap too.
Juice Lubes - Viking juice chain lube. All conditions. Does the job well for me quick and easy and much cheaper than some other Sponsored options.
05:10 I thought it was always the case to drip on from the after the cassette, not before? Any reason for this?
I've only recently started hot waxing, so maybe this is coming from a lack of experience. But it seems like going down this route will lead to me burning through a ton of quick links. I'll start using KMCs instead of the Shimano/Sram single use, but even still I'm wondering if the overall cost is going to be much different
There are multi-use quick links. So I would suggest you use those. The best solution is Connex Quick Links which can be used over and over and over and require absolutely no tools to disassemble and reassemble.
I've used some "non-reusable" quick links close to 10x. I've never had an issue and will continue doing it. I've broken 5 chains in over 300,000 miles of riding and I've never broken a quicklink of any kind. It's always been a random plate
I use the YBN 11 speed quick links, which are reusable.
@@veganpotterthevegan You are right. Usually you can get away with reusing non-reuseable quick links. But I have to ask, "Why?" Quick links that are rated by the manufacturer as reusable are usually the same price. I just bought some Shimano quick links for my Ultegra chain and the reusable ones were the same price as the non-reusable. It was the same situation for other brands that sold both types. Of course, by all means, you do you. But for such an inexpensive bike component, I don't see any logical reason to take the risk, no matter how small.
@Mr. Luigi the why is because I'm using the links that come with the chain so no extra expense is there. I do have some quicklinks on my bike for an emergency though...a 12sp for me and a used 11 and 10 sp links if I wind up helping someone on a ride.
No mention of 3 in 1 oil?
How about drylube?
I want to switch to drip wax, and need a new chain too. Should i strip the factory grease off the new chain first (maybe with mineral spirits?) then apply the drip wax?
Definitely. If you don't remove the factory grease first, wax lube will mix with it and turn to a sticky black paste that will get caked over everything.
No & you shouldn't use wax either.
Is right lube going to work on left hand drive?