Successful run with carb cleaner and WD40 since late 80s here. Hoppe’s for the bore, of course. I completely remove the barreled action from the stock. Basically remove everything non-metal until all you’re dealing with is the actual firearm - long arm or handgun.
I use chemtool B12. I bought a marlin 22 once that looked like it had never been cleaned and was jamming a bunch so the owner was cussing like a sailor. After I removed its wood stock, the chemtool removed all the build up from its action as well as the barrel. Then I way over did it on spraying the gun oil because chemtool removes ALL traces of oils. After that I used compressed air to remove the access oil. This $25 gun drives tacks at 50 yards now and never jambs.
I use brake and parts cleaner in the barrels and actions and triggers, etc. I do everything in my power to not get anything on timber stocks, but it doesn’t seem to hurt the plastic stocks. Plastic is impervious to most petroleum based products. Good vid.
@Falkens Maze fair question. This stuff seems to dry off pretty quickly. I just have rags handy so I can wipe my hands regularly. I just be as careful as I can.
Man I really enjoyed this. For 40 years I have been using mineral spirits to clean carbon bore fouling out of my barrels very effectively. It's cheap and it works. For what some of these gun cleaners cost I wouldn't get anywhere near them with my wallet. And I want copper plating in my barrel! copper plating is desirable, its excessive copper that is not and mineral spirits has always been effective at keeping that down when used with a bronze brush. My boresvope and my groups both tell me that. All my firearms are in very good to excellent condition. Never harmed the stock or rubber seals. And mineral spirits is $8 a quart. Thanks for the really great video 👍👍👍👍
first, appreciated, second, i agree with you even thought this was more about what these things can do to stocks, not metal. anyway, yeah, i use all sorts of things myself... mobil 1 and 0000 steel wool for surface rust, even been known to use mercury (don't tell anyone) on leaded up bores. 😂🤣 some of the old school stuff works fine
Yes sir I am a pragmatist but I do love my experiments like you do 😁. There was a time when I was drinking the Kool-Aid about getting all the copper out of my Barrel and so I started mixing up aggressive nitric acid solutions because it would not react with my stainless steel barrel. Oh I definitely got ALL the copper out and caused quite a bit of toxic outgassing along the way! If anybody has any notions about doing this please please please do not try it! But anyways, I was not expecting to see that much of an impact on wooden stock finishes. I suspect you probably saved a few viewers stocks in the making of this video.
@@Jeff_Seely well, i won't claim to know a lot when it comes to copper fouling, honestly or really even fouling in general. what i can tell you just from experience, when shooting lead in precision matches anyway is that there is a threshold when it comes to minimum and maximum about of dirty bore. generally speaking, 22 anyway, i would want to shoot a match between 10 and 200 rounds down the bore before to get the best accuracy. that is of course using premium match ammo... with cheaper stuff, who freaking knows... not really consistent enough ammo to figure that out
Great video! I've always been super paranoid when it came to using any kind of "scrubber" spray on firearms so I would shell out the extra cash on specific "polymer safe" gun scrubbers. Most do great but my god stay far away from Birchwood Casey gun scrubber spray. 90% of the time I go the dedicated solvent / lubricant route but maybe 2-3 times a year I like to be a bit lazy and just blast out all my glock, sig and Walther lowers and AR uppers which are a nightmare to clean properly. Anyways I'll stop rambling on and on, great video!
if you like to ramble, then you are in the right place. agreed, now days it is easy to find good, appropriate and proper cleaning products. way back in the day, not so much and i think that is why we still see people talking about and using non specific products. don't get me wrong, i do still use weird stuff to clean and maintain in certain circumstances myself, but, i have also tested and verified they are not causing more harm than good. this is where it is nice to have some old parts like barrels, stocks, etc just sitting around... so you test things first.
I've been using carburetor cleaner on metal gun parts for about 40 years. Never had a problem. But only the metal. It will stain and damage wood and plastic.
If I was to get a milsurp covered in cosmoline, I might use something strong to get that off then use gun cleaners to get the automotive cleaner off (removed from the wood furniture). And if hunting in the rain I will use WD-40 (which I have in the car) to displace the water till I get home and can clean properly.
great vid i use WD-40 followed up with Break Clean on the actions BUT do not use on a Rugger 10-22 Stainless Steel it destroyed the finish on the receiver
@ Louis Lombardelli in my experience WD-40 is good enough for protecting exterior but I find that it leaves a residue/varnish if left on internal parts causing excess friction and attracting debris.
People out in Wyoming State, have been using carberator cleaner on gun patches for years; no problem. And by the Way....., Dont you think " Frank Hoppe" , creator of Hoppes's #9, had this figured out , a long time ago?? You don't need Lizard grease, or any other Super Hero X-Ray bore cleaner , to the Molecular level. Lets Get back to Tried and True basics that work, and quit making these Companies Rich.
well... you would agree that advancement in technologies happen right? and if so, then that means at some point what Hoppe figured out, while still potentially viable option, might be be optimal and certianly not for specfic situations. now, that said, mostly what i use now days is the stuff from Aegis Gun Care but I also used a variety of other things as well, including Hoppes. heck, i might be the only person in the country left using mercury to clean heavily leaded barrels 🤣😂
@CloverTac As I Live and Breathe, you just gave your second Old Daddy , more grey Hair. Get in that Haz Mat Suit and Pour away! Frank Hoppe would Propeller Turn in his Grave.
not sure i have ever heard of the rubbing alcohol thing.... i do use Mobil1 and 0000 steel wool for light surface rust removal though. thanks for sharing!
Ive been using throttle body cleaner for years. Safe on plastics and blasts the gunk from the crevices. For 3 bucks a can, works better and costs less than dedicated gun cleaners. I wouldnt use it on wood, but I dont have any wood. Gun powder comes right off. A rag and bottled cleaner isnt getting into the parts I want clean. Trigger groups etc.
You confident something like that could be used on polymer lowers? Stuff like glock, sig, m&p etc etc? I do alot of shooting and don't always have time to completely strip a pistol down so I'll substitute with a dedicated "polymer safe" gun scrubber but my god are those exspensive and I swear they go quicker than quick.... I'm primarily concerned about discoloration and advanced aging. Even with the "safe" stuff I'll quickly go behind it with a air compressor.
should be fine, but there is always a gamble. throttle body cleaner is very, very similar in chemical nature to the map sensor cleaner shown in this video.
Throttle cleaner is the best , it will take all the excess and all powder stuck in those corners of the slider and gun It comes out right away and keeps the pistol super clean. After make shure u lube it up . Bore cleaner for your barrel as always
Personally I would be careful about using brake cleaner on synthetic stocks, I've seen it absolutely destroy plastics too many times. Maybe it's the chlorine or cheap plastic that's the issue but I wouldn't roll the dice.
@@CloverTac Chemicals should have an SDS associated with them, that would tell you. We unwittingly played a prank on a guy at work when we dribbled some acetone next to his computer mouse on a lab bench and it actually bonded his mouse to the bench when it dried
yeah, a lot of good firearm specific stuff out there. i do especially use Mobil1 and 0000 steel wool for surface rust removal, but that is really about it for using auto stuff.
nope... if you are talking about laquer... not many wood stocks are sealed like that and even if they were, this stuff is still way too harsh, so be very careful if you do choose to use it
i see... yeah, you will find that most rifle stocks are not coated like that, oil is quite often used, many coats, sometimes as many as 100. some of your cheaper rifles (or used one where someone has done an amatuer refinish) may indeed have laquer or eurothane or whatever... and yeah, like i said, this stuff is pretty harh, made for automotive use, so my recommendation is to not use it at all to be honest. these cleaners have been recommended by firearm people for years and i thought it might be a good idea to show people in a video what can actually happen if you don't already know. those people to tout using this stuff, they probably take the barrel and action out of the stock first, but they never tell people that and new firearm owners may not know... then they ruin their firearm. that isn't a good day, we gotta try and take care of the new people, that are what keeps our community vibrant and fresh
Many years ago, when there were still cops walking a beat, I'd spend one day out of my work week working at the PD armory. Since I was a licenced dealer/trained gunsmith on the side, the Lt that ran the range/armory was glad to have the help. We had 1300 sworn officers at the time and many were complete idiots as far as firearms care! Weapons for repairs ran from genuine mechanical failure (less than 15%) to the most common of all, poor or no maintenance whatsoever! Cylinders frozen in place. Yokes "welded" in place with WD40 and goo! Bores plugged with WD40 and loads of lint and dirt. Hammers, triggers, and cylinder releases frozen in place with filth! These were cops that worked the street in patrol. Detectives were just as bad. I bet in a day I'd clean and restore a dozen S&W M13, M19, and M36 revolvers. Disgusting.. In regards to the use of brake cleaner, I'd use the non-chlorinated version. Pull the grips. Blast the frozen parts, often many times, and continue cleaning. It was effective. And the cans of WD40 that were at the range/armory? I lined 'em all up down range and shot every can with my M28! Told the Lt that I'd quit the armory detail if I ever saw another can of WD40!
wow, cool story, thanks for sharing. yeah, i think that certain non firearm related cleaners and stuff can have specific application every now and then but for the most part firearm cleaners and lubes have advanced to the point that there is really no need to deviate from them for regular cleaning and maintenance
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Successful run with carb cleaner and WD40 since late 80s here. Hoppe’s for the bore, of course. I completely remove the barreled action from the stock. Basically remove everything non-metal until all you’re dealing with is the actual firearm - long arm or handgun.
Most specialized products are nothing special. Usually they just cost way more. I would only clean the metal with them and it should be fine.
Slap “Gun” or “Boat/marine” on any label, and product gets marked up +100%.
Thx for the video!
I use chemtool B12. I bought a marlin 22 once that looked like it had never been cleaned and was jamming a bunch so the owner was cussing like a sailor. After I removed its wood stock, the chemtool removed all the build up from its action as well as the barrel. Then I way over did it on spraying the gun oil because chemtool removes ALL traces of oils. After that I used compressed air to remove the access oil. This $25 gun drives tacks at 50 yards now and never jambs.
Right on. Haven't even thought of the HEST
I use brake and parts cleaner in the barrels and actions and triggers, etc. I do everything in my power to not get anything on timber stocks, but it doesn’t seem to hurt the plastic stocks. Plastic is impervious to most petroleum based products. Good vid.
@Falkens Maze fair question. This stuff seems to dry off pretty quickly. I just have rags handy so I can wipe my hands regularly. I just be as careful as I can.
Cool helpful video, I have a Remington 740 woods master that I want to strip the wood furniture this will help
yeah, it looks like it, definitely something i am going to look into on the next wood stock restoration project, might save a lot of sanding
Man I really enjoyed this. For 40 years I have been using mineral spirits to clean carbon bore fouling out of my barrels very effectively. It's cheap and it works. For what some of these gun cleaners cost I wouldn't get anywhere near them with my wallet. And I want copper plating in my barrel! copper plating is desirable, its excessive copper that is not and mineral spirits has always been effective at keeping that down when used with a bronze brush. My boresvope and my groups both tell me that. All my firearms are in very good to excellent condition. Never harmed the stock or rubber seals. And mineral spirits is $8 a quart. Thanks for the really great video 👍👍👍👍
first, appreciated, second, i agree with you even thought this was more about what these things can do to stocks, not metal. anyway, yeah, i use all sorts of things myself... mobil 1 and 0000 steel wool for surface rust, even been known to use mercury (don't tell anyone) on leaded up bores. 😂🤣 some of the old school stuff works fine
Yes sir I am a pragmatist but I do love my experiments like you do 😁. There was a time when I was drinking the Kool-Aid about getting all the copper out of my Barrel and so I started mixing up aggressive nitric acid solutions because it would not react with my stainless steel barrel. Oh I definitely got ALL the copper out and caused quite a bit of toxic outgassing along the way! If anybody has any notions about doing this please please please do not try it! But anyways, I was not expecting to see that much of an impact on wooden stock finishes. I suspect you probably saved a few viewers stocks in the making of this video.
@@Jeff_Seely well, i won't claim to know a lot when it comes to copper fouling, honestly or really even fouling in general. what i can tell you just from experience, when shooting lead in precision matches anyway is that there is a threshold when it comes to minimum and maximum about of dirty bore. generally speaking, 22 anyway, i would want to shoot a match between 10 and 200 rounds down the bore before to get the best accuracy. that is of course using premium match ammo... with cheaper stuff, who freaking knows... not really consistent enough ammo to figure that out
I use carb cleaner on handguns and ar then I heavily oil them
Great video! I've always been super paranoid when it came to using any kind of "scrubber" spray on firearms so I would shell out the extra cash on specific "polymer safe" gun scrubbers. Most do great but my god stay far away from Birchwood Casey gun scrubber spray. 90% of the time I go the dedicated solvent / lubricant route but maybe 2-3 times a year I like to be a bit lazy and just blast out all my glock, sig and Walther lowers and AR uppers which are a nightmare to clean properly. Anyways I'll stop rambling on and on, great video!
if you like to ramble, then you are in the right place. agreed, now days it is easy to find good, appropriate and proper cleaning products. way back in the day, not so much and i think that is why we still see people talking about and using non specific products. don't get me wrong, i do still use weird stuff to clean and maintain in certain circumstances myself, but, i have also tested and verified they are not causing more harm than good. this is where it is nice to have some old parts like barrels, stocks, etc just sitting around... so you test things first.
Thank you i was curious about MAF sensor cleaner and a wood stock.
Interesting timing. I was just wondering about this very subject. I’ll stick with the gun specific cleaners to be safe.
yeah, me too unless i get into a pinch or something
I've been using carburetor cleaner on metal gun parts for about 40 years. Never had a problem. But only the metal. It will stain and damage wood and plastic.
Nice, now i know how to remove the finish and stain. Easy. I redo stocks and id try it once just to check it out. Experimentation .
that thought crossed my mind when this happened, yeah, easy way to strip and old finish for a restoration
If I was to get a milsurp covered in cosmoline, I might use something strong to get that off then use gun cleaners to get the automotive cleaner off (removed from the wood furniture). And if hunting in the rain I will use WD-40 (which I have in the car) to displace the water till I get home and can clean properly.
great vid i use WD-40 followed up with Break Clean on the actions BUT do not use on a Rugger 10-22 Stainless Steel it destroyed the finish on the receiver
good advice
@ Louis Lombardelli in my experience WD-40 is good enough for protecting exterior but I find that it leaves a residue/varnish if left on internal parts causing excess friction and attracting debris.
@@guaporeturns9472 you are correct
But I used wd-40 first to break up the carbon than break clean to remove it than standard cleaning process
@@louislombardelli1691 yes good plan , that works well , just don’t leave it to “cure" on the internals.
I think he used cleaners from Orilley just for the clover 🤔
honestly, never even considered that, just got an oreilly fairly close, but it is a nice touch
Good observation, I think your right!
Make a tray out of tin foil and cover the wooden stock in carb cleaner it gets rid of the oil cheap and easy putting it on plastic won't work.
Appreciate the info👍👍
Great info, thanks for sharing
People out in Wyoming State, have been using carberator cleaner on gun patches for years; no problem.
And by the Way....., Dont you think " Frank Hoppe" , creator of Hoppes's #9, had this figured out , a long time ago?? You don't need Lizard grease, or any other Super Hero X-Ray bore cleaner , to the Molecular level. Lets Get back to Tried and True basics that work, and quit making these Companies Rich.
well... you would agree that advancement in technologies happen right? and if so, then that means at some point what Hoppe figured out, while still potentially viable option, might be be optimal and certianly not for specfic situations. now, that said, mostly what i use now days is the stuff from Aegis Gun Care but I also used a variety of other things as well, including Hoppes. heck, i might be the only person in the country left using mercury to clean heavily leaded barrels 🤣😂
@CloverTac As I Live and Breathe, you just gave your second Old Daddy , more grey Hair. Get in that Haz Mat Suit and Pour away! Frank Hoppe would Propeller Turn in his Grave.
eh, all good.... whatever works right? long as you do things safely anyway.
I use rubbing alcohol down the barrel dry it then a good synthetic oil after that
not sure i have ever heard of the rubbing alcohol thing.... i do use Mobil1 and 0000 steel wool for light surface rust removal though. thanks for sharing!
Ive been using throttle body cleaner for years. Safe on plastics and blasts the gunk from the crevices. For 3 bucks a can, works better and costs less than dedicated gun cleaners. I wouldnt use it on wood, but I dont have any wood. Gun powder comes right off. A rag and bottled cleaner isnt getting into the parts I want clean. Trigger groups etc.
You confident something like that could be used on polymer lowers? Stuff like glock, sig, m&p etc etc? I do alot of shooting and don't always have time to completely strip a pistol down so I'll substitute with a dedicated "polymer safe" gun scrubber but my god are those exspensive and I swear they go quicker than quick.... I'm primarily concerned about discoloration and advanced aging. Even with the "safe" stuff I'll quickly go behind it with a air compressor.
should be fine, but there is always a gamble. throttle body cleaner is very, very similar in chemical nature to the map sensor cleaner shown in this video.
Man watching this was painful! I thought you were going to clean Firearmes no stocks!
oh well, can't please em all, no refunds on a few video, have a good one 😂🤣😂🤣
Throttle cleaner is the best , it will take all the excess and all powder stuck in those corners of the slider and gun
It comes out right away and keeps the pistol super clean. After make shure u lube it up . Bore cleaner for your barrel as always
good point, that stuff will absolutely dry out the metal and you don't wanna run a dry firearm
Bore cleaner will do the same thing to wood varnish.
@ wheeled and well armed never had a problem with Hoppes or any other powder solvent damaging my wood. Maybe you’re talking about something else?
@@guaporeturns9472 not a gun stock but a table top
I don't use anything that's not intended for firearms. I know lots of people who do though. To each their own of course, not my cup of tea though
Personally I would be careful about using brake cleaner on synthetic stocks, I've seen it absolutely destroy plastics too many times. Maybe it's the chlorine or cheap plastic that's the issue but I wouldn't roll the dice.
yeah, personally would not use any of this stuff because it is true, you never really know what all is in there.
I think it's brake cleaner that has acetone in it
yeah, they are not all created equal for sure... whether they are labeled that way or not
@@CloverTac Chemicals should have an SDS associated with them, that would tell you. We unwittingly played a prank on a guy at work when we dribbled some acetone next to his computer mouse on a lab bench and it actually bonded his mouse to the bench when it dried
If cleaning supplies get scarce enough?
yeah, a lot of good firearm specific stuff out there. i do especially use Mobil1 and 0000 steel wool for surface rust removal, but that is really about it for using auto stuff.
More like 10 bucks for a can that will do one pistol and poorly at that makes no scense , to me. Not the availability of it.
No wood no plastic no problem
Was that wood stock just finished without a protective layer?
nope... if you are talking about laquer... not many wood stocks are sealed like that and even if they were, this stuff is still way too harsh, so be very careful if you do choose to use it
@@CloverTac I'm not using it. I was just wondering
i see... yeah, you will find that most rifle stocks are not coated like that, oil is quite often used, many coats, sometimes as many as 100. some of your cheaper rifles (or used one where someone has done an amatuer refinish) may indeed have laquer or eurothane or whatever... and yeah, like i said, this stuff is pretty harh, made for automotive use, so my recommendation is to not use it at all to be honest. these cleaners have been recommended by firearm people for years and i thought it might be a good idea to show people in a video what can actually happen if you don't already know. those people to tout using this stuff, they probably take the barrel and action out of the stock first, but they never tell people that and new firearm owners may not know... then they ruin their firearm. that isn't a good day, we gotta try and take care of the new people, that are what keeps our community vibrant and fresh
@@CloverTac amen brother
I don't know about all this, but Ballistol works great to season cast iron pans.
I feel like throttle body cleaner will work
Many years ago, when there were still cops walking a beat, I'd spend one day out of my work week working at the PD armory. Since I was a licenced dealer/trained gunsmith on the side, the Lt that ran the range/armory was glad to have the help. We had 1300 sworn officers at the time and many were complete idiots as far as firearms care!
Weapons for repairs ran from genuine mechanical failure (less than 15%) to the most common of all, poor or no maintenance whatsoever!
Cylinders frozen in place. Yokes "welded" in place with WD40 and goo! Bores plugged with WD40 and loads of lint and dirt. Hammers, triggers, and cylinder releases frozen in place with filth! These were cops that worked the street in patrol. Detectives were just as bad. I bet in a day I'd clean and restore a dozen S&W M13, M19, and M36 revolvers. Disgusting.. In regards to the use of brake cleaner, I'd use the non-chlorinated version. Pull the grips. Blast the frozen parts, often many times, and continue cleaning. It was effective.
And the cans of WD40 that were at the range/armory? I lined 'em all up down range and shot every can with my M28! Told the Lt that I'd quit the armory detail if I ever saw another can of WD40!
wow, cool story, thanks for sharing. yeah, i think that certain non firearm related cleaners and stuff can have specific application every now and then but for the most part firearm cleaners and lubes have advanced to the point that there is really no need to deviate from them for regular cleaning and maintenance
Subbed!
you never were?
@@CloverTac I don’t know how I’ve gotten by this long without it! 🇺🇸🗽
👍👍
🤠🤝