Any plans on doing a part 2 of this test? Prices have gone up across the board, some even doubled. It also seems that some have changed their formulation (AutoZone being the most obvious), so this may change the results for 2023 and going forward. Very good data here, been buying the SuperTech for a while now but curious if it's still the best value
Not at the moment. What I've found out since this video is a lot of these formulations are hindered by VOC regulations. The cleaners with a higher VOC % tend to clean better. Most of these manufacturers have their hands tied by each individual state's VOC regulations. The ingredients that clean well and meet low VOC requirements are not cheap. Most of these manufacturers are using the cheapest ingredients they can to meet regulations and keep costs down. Cleaning power becomes an afterthought. Nobody is going to buy a $20 can of brake cleaner.
@@RepairGeek I mean, there's definitely the general population that would ignore it but then there's also going to be people out of touch with prices who want the best and assume the high premium makes it better. Don't tell me you don't know products that are 10x more expensive and are as good the those generic models.
I just did a 4 corner brake job. Used supertech. Zero issues. I've never gone for expensive stuff when it comes to brake cleaner. I also keep a can in my watch shop. I blast nasty pocket watches or small clocks with it instead of wasting my expensive watch cleaning solutions ($50 a gallon.)
Nice video. It’s worth mentioning that chlorinated brake clean is MUCH more likely to attack plastics, paint, gloves, and even some kinds of hoses. It’s also harder on the environment, more risky to get it on your skin, and more harmful if you inhale the mist or vapors as it evaporates. The trade off is it cleans more aggressively and, as you noted, stays around longer which can further help it clean in some circumstances (or be annoying if you have to wait for it to dry). Generally nearly everyone is better off with non-chlorinated. I also use Supertech and have no complaints. Just like a jug of most any name brand oil costs around 50% more at your local auto parts store than at Walmart, so does brake clean.
Chlorinated brake cleaners will give off a super toxic nerve gas when heated enough. Too many people have been permanently and significantly injured or died by this version.
Great video! I loved how it was clear, concise, and to the point. If you wanted to tighten up the human error part of the testing, you could do a correction factor on the time vs dirt removed. Say you went over the 5 second mark, and you had 5.5 seconds of spray time. Thats 10% more time, meaning in a perfect world, you removed 10% more dirt.You could take the amount of dirt removed, divide it by 1.10 and it'll tell you how much dirt was removed at the 5 second mark. That isn't going to give you the exact same result as if you had used like a timed solenoid or something, but it would be a lot closer to a perfect comparison.
Great info! People wouldn’t think that brake clean would be identical to the other. But this proves otherwise! Project Farm levels of interesting! Also, love the David Frieburger General Mayhem T-Shirt!
A number of these are made by CRC, I did switch to Walmart's brand sometime ago as it worked well and not that it mattered but it looked exactly the same as CRC. I figured I would compare the look a likes and I was happy with SuperTech in this instance. I never use this type of product as a washer but rather sparingly; as needed. If I had to take a guess, 85% of this type of product used is wasted. As always an excellent review.
Here's a thought... Will the nozzle from one of the other cans fit onto the CRC Pro series to reduce the flow rate and increase the spray time? If so would to become a better value proposition?
I personally want it to evaporate rather quickly. I'm usually using it to find and confirm active hydraulic leaks and if it's not evaporating than the lingering fluid catches the light and makes you think you see a leak when there is not one. However, if im using it to remove glue left behind after removing a decal, I'd want it to linger and work a little more to break down the glue. So if we were to buy it by the case than it would have to be a best of both worlds kind of thing. Don't think I could talk the boss into getting 2 different types I also fond that some brake cleaners leave a residue sort of thing that isn't super important, but can be annoying depending on how you are using it
Zep big orange is also a great degreaser. We have switched over to chemsafe products at work now. I believe theirs is big orange slice. The stuff lingers and hasn't messed up any delicate items yet that I've found. I'll usually use that first and agitate it with a brush then soak it again to wash everything off. Follow it up with fast solve or something similar. Although the prices of the products I mentioned will probably scare most people away.
Good idea for testing, and nice execution. Cost per second can reward a poor nozzle spray. Especially if you need to spray longer for the same job. Nozzle spray is harder to evaluate because either extreme is undesirable. Cost per some effectiveness measure (e.g. "dirt" removal) is another way to evaluate them and makes more sense to me, and take the spray output as s separate consideration
Best to use the Non-Chlorinated brake cleaner . As I have read many mechanics of the past have suffered lung ailments from years of using Chlorinated brake cleaner . Whatever one to use , I think to use a N-95 disposable mask at least for using any of them . And if a mechanic using them regularly the N-95 mask or some type of respirator . And safety glasses or even a face shield as it becomes a mist .
I stopped using chlorinated cleaner. I think it leaves chlorine residue on the metal. I found out the hard way after welding metal afterwards, and was nearly overcome by fumes from it. At first I blamed something in the welding gas I was using (75/25) but I determined it was from using chlorinated brake cleaner on the metal first.
I skipped threw to Super Tech part, I just got done using up what I had and deciding if I should buy more or try different brand. I'm dont know what your spraying but I was cleaning gear pats and cleaning out drain pans that had used heavy weight gear oil in them, 411, that gear oil is hard to clean out. I just thought there might be something that dissolves gear oil better, IMO gear oil cleaning test is a real world test............
Did you notice durring the testing if some of them leave residue after cleaning or they all left clean surface? Also did you maybe tried them on some corbon deposits, it would be quite interesting to see that since a lot of people are using brake cleaner for carbon deposit removal. Great video!
S&S automotive group makes the best brake clean hands down. You have to have access to a distributor in order to get it though. You might be able to order it by the case from your local shop if they are willing to order it for you. Supertech WAS good until about 3 months ago. The price has doubled and the formula has changed.
This is a great video! I'd be interested in a head-to-head of the SuperTech vs. the chlorinated CRC, and this time maybe start the spray in the middle of the plate to avoid any performance loss from bad aim ;). It would also be interesting to see a comparison of all the various CRC variants. (I'd try it, but my garage is messy enough... ;) )
My understanding is CRC makes many different non-chlorinated variants because they adjust the formula to be the strongest it can be within the laws of individual states. Those formulas then are sold to market in that state. This would make it quite difficult for Repair Geek to gather up all the different formulas for testing. Hope that helps
Watched a few of your videos, Im bout done with a maxjax install which I re-engineered the entire installation process , good info btw...85 fox coupe build getting ready to start and 55 yrs old so a lift was def needed lol. keep it up , great content Bud!!! Bring that new edge down to Virginia sometime
I know you used time to try and rank for cost and quantity of brake cleaner but it might have been easier /more accurate to just weigh the can before and after.
other than welding and using green non chlorinated, what is the point of red chlorinated cans? do they smell less, less harmful to skin, something easier on rubber and plastics?
Is non-choronated brake cleaner safe on cured RTV? When I asked Permatex and Threebond about using brake cleaner on their RTV products, they said it wasn't safe.
How about a comparison video on (The Best Carburetor/Choke Cleaners)? Test various brands available at Walmart, Autozone, Oreillys, Napa And Advance Auto Parts. See which one works the best, the fastest, and for the price best bang.
What’s usually in a non-chlorinated brake cleaner? I picked one up recently in Australia and it’s hexane/heptane based. Are US brake cleaners similar petroleum products?
propellant will prob always be a lil more/les in every can also. ive had cans lose " boost" lol after a few uses but overall CRC "red" can always unless the advance wearever is on sale!!
Absolutely love brake clean. Can’t we we figure a way to make it last more than 1 or 2 applications? We can put people in space. Take your undercoating gun and load it with lacquer thinner. I am going to try it.
I used to use the super tech a lot, but I feel like they changed their formula. The last cans I bought I was not impressed with and went back to the carquest wearever I was previously using
I find the chlorinated works best on most grease and oil, however, my boilers oil burner nozzle used to get dirty and stop working, CRC Non-chlorinared worked best cleaning the burnt oil residue off, the service tech forgot his cleaner one day, gave him my green can, he said it worked better than the stuff they had which was specifically made to clean oil burners.
You didn't test the 3M it used to be on sale at Napa 2 for $5 but that's 2 years ago. I'll grab the Walmart brake clean when they have it it's all much more expensive now but the 3M had a huge strong stream and was far superior to the Walmart or any other brand. I wouldn't pay $9 a can for it though.
Good video, but I'm having a Déjà vu.... Did you previously do a video on brake clean, or is this an update? LOL, I follow so many car repair channels, it's all sometimes a blur!
Depending on what your degreasing, paint thinner is cheap. Using a cheap disposable paint brush, and holding the part over a 5 quart plastic painters pail while you brush, that's 98% of the grime off of what you're working on. Now that you're part is clean, use the brake clean to remove the paint thinner residue. It doesn't matter how messy the paint thinner gets in the bucket, you can just keep using it.
Great idea, I keep buying crc's and whatever's on sale. I've never tried Walmart's brand or AutoZone. Thanks for bringing this up, some of us go through quite a bit of that stuff. 👍
Without at least a few cycles of high heat and cooling down periods being applied to the test piece, this test doesn't demonstrate the actual conditions that we encounter. You could sray water and get similar results on your test piece.
Any plans on doing a part 2 of this test? Prices have gone up across the board, some even doubled. It also seems that some have changed their formulation (AutoZone being the most obvious), so this may change the results for 2023 and going forward. Very good data here, been buying the SuperTech for a while now but curious if it's still the best value
Not at the moment. What I've found out since this video is a lot of these formulations are hindered by VOC regulations. The cleaners with a higher VOC % tend to clean better. Most of these manufacturers have their hands tied by each individual state's VOC regulations. The ingredients that clean well and meet low VOC requirements are not cheap. Most of these manufacturers are using the cheapest ingredients they can to meet regulations and keep costs down. Cleaning power becomes an afterthought. Nobody is going to buy a $20 can of brake cleaner.
@@RepairGeekpeople actually will 🥸
People SAY that they will buy a $20 can, until they see that $20 can sitting next to one for $3.50
@@RepairGeek I mean, there's definitely the general population that would ignore it but then there's also going to be people out of touch with prices who want the best and assume the high premium makes it better. Don't tell me you don't know products that are 10x more expensive and are as good the those generic models.
Great stuff man, Project farm would be proud!
I was looking for project farms review of this and came across Ed this one good review!
I just did a 4 corner brake job. Used supertech. Zero issues. I've never gone for expensive stuff when it comes to brake cleaner. I also keep a can in my watch shop. I blast nasty pocket watches or small clocks with it instead of wasting my expensive watch cleaning solutions ($50 a gallon.)
I buy the supertech because I assumed this stuff was more or less the same anyway, so good to see it's actually a solid decision.
Nice video. It’s worth mentioning that chlorinated brake clean is MUCH more likely to attack plastics, paint, gloves, and even some kinds of hoses. It’s also harder on the environment, more risky to get it on your skin, and more harmful if you inhale the mist or vapors as it evaporates. The trade off is it cleans more aggressively and, as you noted, stays around longer which can further help it clean in some circumstances (or be annoying if you have to wait for it to dry). Generally nearly everyone is better off with non-chlorinated. I also use Supertech and have no complaints. Just like a jug of most any name brand oil costs around 50% more at your local auto parts store than at Walmart, so does brake clean.
Chlorinated brake cleaners will give off a super toxic nerve gas when heated enough. Too many people have been permanently and significantly injured or died by this version.
Great video! I loved how it was clear, concise, and to the point.
If you wanted to tighten up the human error part of the testing, you could do a correction factor on the time vs dirt removed. Say you went over the 5 second mark, and you had 5.5 seconds of spray time. Thats 10% more time, meaning in a perfect world, you removed 10% more dirt.You could take the amount of dirt removed, divide it by 1.10 and it'll tell you how much dirt was removed at the 5 second mark.
That isn't going to give you the exact same result as if you had used like a timed solenoid or something, but it would be a lot closer to a perfect comparison.
Great info! People wouldn’t think that brake clean would be identical to the other. But this proves otherwise! Project Farm levels of interesting!
Also, love the David Frieburger General Mayhem T-Shirt!
A number of these are made by CRC, I did switch to Walmart's brand sometime ago as it worked well and not that it mattered but it looked exactly the same as CRC. I figured I would compare the look a likes and I was happy with SuperTech in this instance. I never use this type of product as a washer but rather sparingly; as needed. If I had to take a guess, 85% of this type of product used is wasted. As always an excellent review.
If you want to stretch more value out of it you can spray some on a microfiber and then use that to wipe down surfaces. It's very effective
@@JPearlLapis Exactly, doesn't evaporate as quickly and gets the job done.
Here's a thought... Will the nozzle from one of the other cans fit onto the CRC Pro series to reduce the flow rate and increase the spray time? If so would to become a better value proposition?
Yes the other nozzle does fit the big bottle.
wow! I can def appreciate the time and effort that went into providing this free information for us... thank you!!
I personally want it to evaporate rather quickly. I'm usually using it to find and confirm active hydraulic leaks and if it's not evaporating than the lingering fluid catches the light and makes you think you see a leak when there is not one. However, if im using it to remove glue left behind after removing a decal, I'd want it to linger and work a little more to break down the glue. So if we were to buy it by the case than it would have to be a best of both worlds kind of thing. Don't think I could talk the boss into getting 2 different types
I also fond that some brake cleaners leave a residue sort of thing that isn't super important, but can be annoying depending on how you are using it
Excellent. One small detail missing is whether the product leaves a residue behind which can be annoying if you're trying to prep for paint.
All products leave some sort of residue- even acetone. You'll want to scuff it off if you plan on painting👍
Zep big orange is also a great degreaser. We have switched over to chemsafe products at work now. I believe theirs is big orange slice. The stuff lingers and hasn't messed up any delicate items yet that I've found. I'll usually use that first and agitate it with a brush then soak it again to wash everything off. Follow it up with fast solve or something similar. Although the prices of the products I mentioned will probably scare most people away.
Good idea for testing, and nice execution. Cost per second can reward a poor nozzle spray. Especially if you need to spray longer for the same job. Nozzle spray is harder to evaluate because either extreme is undesirable.
Cost per some effectiveness measure (e.g. "dirt" removal) is another way to evaluate them and makes more sense to me, and take the spray output as s separate consideration
Great video, always informative and I like your honesty.
crazy that is so cheap in usa. in norway i cant find any brake cleaner under 15$. big bottle with crc pro brakeclean is about 40$
Best to use the Non-Chlorinated brake cleaner . As I have read many mechanics of the past have suffered lung ailments from years of using Chlorinated brake cleaner . Whatever one to use , I think to use a N-95 disposable mask at least for using any of them . And if a mechanic using them regularly the N-95 mask or some type of respirator . And safety glasses or even a face shield as it becomes a mist .
N95s don't filter out vapors/fumes/gases, only particles so you'd need a gas and vapor respirator
@@themikeroberts ok
I stopped using chlorinated cleaner. I think it leaves chlorine residue on the metal. I found out the hard way after welding metal afterwards, and was nearly overcome by fumes from it. At first I blamed something in the welding gas I was using (75/25) but I determined it was from using chlorinated brake cleaner on the metal first.
i appreciate this review. thank you for the efforts.
Reupload? Could swear I've seen this video before from you....great info regardless....thanks
Yes it is a re-upload. Just doing a little experiment with the algorithm.
Excellent unbiased review! Super great bar graph analysis, thanks for posting!
I skipped threw to Super Tech part, I just got done using up what I had and deciding if I should buy more or try different brand. I'm dont know what your spraying but I was cleaning gear pats and cleaning out drain pans that had used heavy weight gear oil in them, 411, that gear oil is hard to clean out. I just thought there might be something that dissolves gear oil better, IMO gear oil cleaning test is a real world test............
Excellent video, not an easy test- I loved the Eric O reference! thanks
Awesome job and great video! I also enjoyed the reference!!!
Did you notice durring the testing if some of them leave residue after cleaning or they all left clean surface? Also did you maybe tried them on some corbon deposits, it would be quite interesting to see that since a lot of people are using brake cleaner for carbon deposit removal. Great video!
S&S automotive group makes the best brake clean hands down. You have to have access to a distributor in order to get it though. You might be able to order it by the case from your local shop if they are willing to order it for you.
Supertech WAS good until about 3 months ago. The price has doubled and the formula has changed.
This is a great video! I'd be interested in a head-to-head of the SuperTech vs. the chlorinated CRC, and this time maybe start the spray in the middle of the plate to avoid any performance loss from bad aim ;). It would also be interesting to see a comparison of all the various CRC variants. (I'd try it, but my garage is messy enough... ;) )
I don’t think there’s any competition between chlorinated vs non. The chlorinated stuff works a lot better.
My understanding is CRC makes many different non-chlorinated variants because they adjust the formula to be the strongest it can be within the laws of individual states. Those formulas then are sold to market in that state. This would make it quite difficult for Repair Geek to gather up all the different formulas for testing. Hope that helps
Watched a few of your videos, Im bout done with a maxjax install which I re-engineered the entire installation process , good info btw...85 fox coupe build getting ready to start and 55 yrs old so a lift was def needed lol. keep it up , great content Bud!!! Bring that new edge down to Virginia sometime
I have more new edge content coming this summer.
@@RepairGeek bout ready to get this 85 coupe on the lift and mini tub , start a new build lol..434" all aluminum windsor going in
Best Brake cleaner video out there. well done
You should try Kleen Flo 313 brake cleaner it’s my favourite, it’s great at cleaning grease and stuff but it’s really good at cleaning off adhesives
Unfortunately my wal marts haven't stocked supertech brake cleaner for a couple of months now..... ugh. Autozone will have to do.
I know you used time to try and rank for cost and quantity of brake cleaner but it might have been easier /more accurate to just weigh the can before and after.
Nice video, got a chuckle from your reference to Ray.
other than welding and using green non chlorinated, what is the point of red chlorinated cans? do they smell less, less harmful to skin, something easier on rubber and plastics?
They clean better but are also excellent for causing cancer.
Thanks for doing this test and saving us some cash while spending some of yours.
Is non-choronated brake cleaner safe on cured RTV? When I asked Permatex and Threebond about using brake cleaner on their RTV products, they said it wasn't safe.
Unfortunately, the Super Tech product has increased in price to $3.28 for the 14 oz. spray can.
Yep, Super Tech is not $1.99 anymore.......$3.28 is correct.
Should have weighed the cans after the spray test and divided by time sprayed to get volume and be qualitative with the data
Super Tech is $2.97 a can in south east PA. Was a dollar cheaper a year ago
Same over here in Central California
Macs and crc red. With the cosby sause of course
How about a comparison video on (The Best Carburetor/Choke Cleaners)? Test various brands available at Walmart, Autozone, Oreillys, Napa And Advance Auto Parts.
See which one works the best, the fastest, and for the price best bang.
They need to sponsor you because I’m buying it when I need break cleaner
Hey, which one?
Nice job ! Please keep up the good work !
9:46 Not a sponsor!
great job...just because it has the big name doesn't mean it does a big job....thanks for proving this
It's crazy how in just one short year since you made this video the prices of these brake cleaners went up by as much as 50%.
Hi, I have quickly question! Which brake cleaner spray will be okay for safe clean plastic and rubber??? Please tell me which done test before?
How about the brake clean that shops use with a pump spray, or what is it that they really use
Wait...didn't you do this already? I swore I saw it a few weeks ago? Did YT take it down for some bull reason?
I'm running an experiment with the algorithm.
@@RepairGeek Ahhhhh ok
What’s usually in a non-chlorinated brake cleaner? I picked one up recently in Australia and it’s hexane/heptane based. Are US brake cleaners similar petroleum products?
This is super-useful - thanks!!
Try Amsoil, also sucks you couldn’t get Oreillys it’s really good also and 2.98 a can
Great show!!!
You forgot to add the used blinker fluid.
I joke, but keep up the awesome vids!
I watched a video on batteries, Walmart one that test as well....
My choice was always crc green then I used the 3M and never going back!
If I use autozone brake cleaner do I need to wipe everything down after??
Price went up on the super tech= $2.99 a can in ct.
I Liked the Berryman Brake Cleaner. The Spray is completely Different, no other Cleaner I have used was like it...
First Ayd is the best I've used. Heard 3M rocks too
Havre you tried the Napa Mac 4800? It works much better than the 4810.
propellant will prob always be a lil more/les in every can also. ive had cans lose "
boost" lol after a few uses but overall CRC "red" can always unless the advance wearever is on sale!!
I haven't even watched the vid, but after 30 years in auto repair my money in on the walmart brand.The cheapest, but most effective
Wow, definitely lived up to the channel name with even charts and stuff! Lol
Thanks. I enjoyed the details.
Thank you for the video. Strangely interesting. 😂
Chlorinated brake cleaner is a severe health hazard in many different ways. Do not use it!
Instead of wasting them into the oil collection tank, shoulda sprayed it into a clean container. It's still pretty useful non aerosol
Awesome, thanks for doing this.
What if I don’t want to take my wheels off?
Walmart brand is the way to go. 👍
I buy the cheapest one and is the Az one ;) So true about paying high doesnt mean good. WOw Walmart eh? Let me try it
Good experiment for each product. We'll done
Absolutely love brake clean. Can’t we we figure a way to make it last more than 1 or 2 applications? We can put people in space. Take your undercoating gun and load it with lacquer thinner. I am going to try it.
That would probably make a great flame thrower haha.
I used to use the super tech a lot, but I feel like they changed their formula. The last cans I bought I was not impressed with and went back to the carquest wearever I was previously using
Eric O will definitely appreciate that reference
@@pl5624 I think he just likes to huff the brake clean mist lol
Eric O is the Yoda of brake jobs.
Great video. Can you use the CRC cleaners on bike disc breaks?
This video is so weird to me. In my area (Dallas, Tx), CRC is 6.99 a can and Lucas is like 4
Imagine your shop brag is having the biggest can of brake cleaner lol
Great information.
CRC red can works great
that original Brakleen isn't probably too good for you but great video
You need to measure volume of product sprayed instead of spray time. Nozzle size will change everything. Seems pretty obvious.
The weight is printed on the side of the can.
Right on good job
Wuerth brake cleaner is well performanced and with nice price
Yes dude
Whats the diference between chlorinated and non chlorinated
I find the chlorinated works best on most grease and oil, however, my boilers oil burner nozzle used to get dirty and stop working, CRC Non-chlorinared worked best cleaning the burnt oil residue off, the service tech forgot his cleaner one day, gave him my green can, he said it worked better than the stuff they had which was specifically made to clean oil burners.
Great video
What kind of honky tonk prices are those dang way cheaper than most of California.
You didn't test the 3M it used to be on sale at Napa 2 for $5 but that's 2 years ago.
I'll grab the Walmart brake clean when they have it it's all much more expensive now but the 3M had a huge strong stream and was far superior to the Walmart or any other brand.
I wouldn't pay $9 a can for it though.
3m is discontinued at this point I believe.
I always swear by CRC. Its the best weather chlorinated or non chlorinated.
What is better chlorinated or non ?
Chlorinated.
Never use chlorinated prior to welding or any high temp operations. Produces nerve gas and you can die.
Good video, but I'm having a Déjà vu.... Did you previously do a video on brake clean, or is this an update? LOL, I follow so many car repair channels, it's all sometimes a blur!
This is a re-upload. Just running an experiment with the algorithm.
Nice awesome info
CRC never has enough air.
I see Jim Carrey moved on to working on cars. Good on ya!
I use brake cleaner but the quicker we get away from using any of it the better. Can't tell me no one can figure out a better safer alternative.
Depending on what your degreasing, paint thinner is cheap. Using a cheap disposable paint brush, and holding the part over a 5 quart plastic painters pail while you brush, that's 98% of the grime off of what you're working on.
Now that you're part is clean, use the brake clean to remove the paint thinner residue.
It doesn't matter how messy the paint thinner gets in the bucket, you can just keep using it.
Great idea, I keep buying crc's and whatever's on sale. I've never tried Walmart's brand or AutoZone.
Thanks for bringing this up, some of us go through quite a bit of that stuff. 👍
Supertech is now just under $3/can
Add heat to the dirt plate and try it again.
Rainman Ray ..... shinny
that crc nonflammable is the worst
You needed to bake the test piece to be more like engine parts
Without at least a few cycles of high heat and cooling down periods being applied to the test piece, this test doesn't demonstrate the actual conditions that we encounter. You could sray water and get similar results on your test piece.