Finally, after watching so many videos that imply how to use these products, you have explained and shown exactly how to clean potentiometers et. al. on any electronic component. I was looking for a video that would show me exactly how to do this. Now I can get my old multiband radios to work so much better. Your video is the standard for these products. Thank you.
This video is exactly what I needed to watch. CRC is what I buy and is usually the only brand offered at the general retail level where I live. I knew that it's application was blast and clean only which it does well at but also knew it had no lubricative properties which is the back half of the cleaning/maintenance procedure. Learrning here of these of these 2 previously unknown products, Deoxit D5 and F5 with its conductive lubricants, fills in that missing gap. As always in many cases, I am not researching a particular subject, I merely happen across it but has information about something I knew I had some ignorance gaps with but knew I needed to know more about. I thank you for sharing your knowledge and the time you took to compile it. I stopped the video at 18:39 to pen this so I need to watch the rest of your video presentation, then, ......................................off to Amazon I go to order some Deoxit D5/F5. Just so You know, I hit the Subscribe button already.
Another great video. I cleaned and lubricated all the strips on a Jupiter 8 a while back and can now see that it's something I'll have to eventually consider a least partially doing again someday. And here I thought I was done with that fix forever (wishful thinking). Glad to know i used the right fluids for the right things. I guess the guys at the shop gave me correct info.
Something I've done with the sealed pots at 28:00 is carefully drill a small hole on the front and back to spay contact cleaner. You have to saturate the entire volume so the other hole acts as a drain. Then I push air through it at low pressure and seal it up with a small piece of Kapton tape. This is risky but in the world of vintage equipment most of the time there are no replacement parts. Many people also desire to keep as many original parts as possible for aesthetics. I have do this method with the trigger switch on my Bosch drill once a year. I love the drill but the OEM charges 50% of the drill price for a part that will just fail in another year.
Thank you so very much!! I’m a retired aerospace engineer with a long term appreciation of Macintosh gear. I ordered Deoxit D5 and F5 and am looking forward to correcting noisey potentiometers on my C39 preamp and MC7270.
Really excellent video . I have been using Motomaster Electrical contact cleaner for a decade with good results. It dries faster than D5 - but not too fast. I'm almost out so I'm going to order some actual Deoxit. One thing I found an alternative use of contact cleaner (in general) was to remove stickers from paper. It is the most effective NON STAINING method I have ever come across. I found out it was the Heptane that is found inside these contact cleaners .. that appears to be a key ingredient of Electical cleaners outside of acetone, alcohol and minearl spirits. So I'm going to order just heptane for the stickers..but it could be more expensive than buying the contact cleaner...and maybe less convenient. I have to remove 50 year old stickers off of various types of paper because I sell rare vintage LP records - and many times you find price stickers on the labels of the 45 singles..and that's probabliy the most tenuous to remove. Who else went through trying to remove stubborn stickers with lighter fluid or that orange 'gunk' remover.. both useless in so many situations. Sometimes lighter fluid would dry the glue to a concrete and make it harder to remove LOL Cool to know Heptane comes from Jack Pine.. so another family of solvents from Pine.. cool . THANKS AGAIN FOR THE EDUCATIONAL VIDEO.
Nice video, thanks for posting. Now for my opinions. Deoxit D100 followed by Gold is my "gold standard" for contacts. It seems to reduce recurring issues. I do not use D series on pots because I have heard from individuals who have had the carbon track destroyed by it. Whether it was a weak track to start with and would have failed anyway or an incompatibility with D5 we will never know. But why take the chance? F series only for pots is my rule. Also with the exception of QD I avoid the used of sprays wherever humanly possible because they spray. Everywhere that you don't want them to. There is very rarely a spot that I can't get to with D100 in the needle tip bottle, or a tiny drop on the end of a screwdriver or dental pick. If I must spray I pack the paper towel around the target BEFORE I spray. Whatever you do, don't let the stuff get on your front panel. It may clean up OK, but it could also damage or discolor a painted surface.
I tried some other ways people say on YT and the ol baking soda , salt and vinegar solution didn't work on for RUST on my USB connector charging cable . What did work is toliet bowl cleaning liquid . If you read the label some of them says removes rust . I tried it once letting it sit for a minute . On the outside removed much of it . Had to use again letting it sit on INSIDE of USB connection for several minutes . Rinsed it off then dried sparingly with heat gun . Now works . USB cable is how my Craftsman rechargeable headlamp charges . verry handy
Inflation... The best deal is currently 36.94 on Amazon for two pack. 1-D5 and 1-F5. Thank you for this info. I am about to tackle cleaning a Mackie 16 x 4 mixer that sat in a dusty environment and is almost mute. I would have bathed it with the CRC product had I not learned about the importance of re-lubricating the pots and sliders.
Deoxit saved a decades old C= computer CRT color monitor that was arcing out at the high voltage cap due to dust dirt and grime over years of use and storage. No more arcing and the picture is perfect.
I work on guitars and amps and use the crc to clean then go behind with the Deoxit F5 as well. At first I was a little weary of using the crc but I have seen no issues with it attacking the carbon or plastics so I still do. Heck it is only $4 for that huge can at the autoparts stores. Mineral spirits which is in deoxit is also a lubricant. You could probably clean pots with just mineral spirits with an eye dropper and save tons.
The F5 doesn't have the same chemicals as D5. It doesn't have the specific chemical that reversed oxidisation. It's great for flushing but won't take away the oxidisation like D5 will.
@@TheMatthooks the F5 is a cleaning and lubrication solvent, which works great on old gunked up vintage pots and sliders. It leaves behind a contact lubricating film. If you need it to work on extreme oxidation I guess you could use the other stuff. I use the crc that is probably harsher and evaporates all away for the heavy lifting then go behind with a small spray of F5 to lube and create a better conductive path that will last for a long time. most of the time the F5 on its own works great too its expensive so I use it sparingly.
In my profession I lubricate locks and I like to squeeze the plastic hose tip with needle nose pliers to collapse it to be more oval and thinner to enter tighter spots (like key holes). Thanks for the overview!
I learned about contact cleaner when I was in the Army electronics. In the 70’s I found LPS Contact Cleaner at the Offshore Technology Conference. The sales rep demonstrated how to get grease stains out of your clothes. He put some grease on his coat sleeve. Then he put a handkerchief inside his coat sleeve. Then he blew ths grease through the sleeve into the handkerchiefs using LPS Contact Cleaner. Maybe you should try contact cleaner to remove the Deoxit stains. Once they set in with the laundy, it may be impossible. Contact cleaner formulation has changed over the years and it used to be similar to the dry cleaning agent, carbon tetra chloride which is not available anymore. I don’t have any old audio stuff to worry about. My audio equipment is remote controlled. I don’t like to clean my electronics with an oil because it can attract dust and dirt. I picked your video to learn about Deoxit’s corrsion elimination properties. Good to know not to use it where oil is not wanted.
Thank you so much for your concise explanation of these cleaners, lubricants, pots and potentiometers. I could now decide which product to use and where to use them!
Very good tutorial on cleaners and lubricants. I wish there was a guy like you in my hood. I like old electronics and try to maintain them. I now have some better information. I replaced an old Soundcraftsmen equalizer with a newer version because the old one was popping when switched on, possibly frying my right channel on my amp. The newer version is no where as good. I had to replace my amp with a used one as well because they no longer make them with the jacks for the equalizer. I am not happy with it either. Thanks again for your expertise. Hector
What a great video! I should have learned this stuff long ago. I use these cleaners all the time but i didn't know when to use and when not to use for the right job. Thank you!
I to had the same problem. I now wear an apron when I work in the shop. I will report the incidence of damaged clothing has decreased dramatically. Take care, God bless
FWIW im sure you kow this but for others in most modern recording studios the faders are optical encoders, the entire audio path is digital. Even the analog stages in high end gear use digitally controlled VCAs with digital controls. I have one 20yo MOTU 8 channel mic pre that uses pots for gain to keep the cost down but pretty much all the other recording gear i use (MOTU, Audient, Expert Sleepers) has no analog controls (the Expert Sleepers DACs dont have controls, or a display, at all lmao). Even my old Onkyo amp has just one rotary encoder and a bunch of switches. The cheap Holts electronic cleaner i have lists >30% Naptha and >60% isopropanol in its warnings, so basically the solvent used in deoxit. I havent looked up the CRC Quick Dry. Ventilate well, everyone. FWIW from what i can gather the most effective method to clean open potentiometers like faders without disassembly is to start with a 'no residue' electronic cleaner like naptha or iPA (or chrolothane if youre game) to wash, work the control to free stuff, follow with compressed air to flow debris and solvent free, and then fader lubricant (Either the Dow-Corning Penny and Giles recommend or whatever your manufacturer recommends if you can find some, or the ubiquitous deoxit F series). I've been a tech for a long time, gotta clean my own out of production penny and giles motorfaders and i have never in my life been so stressed cleaning a contact lmao.
Great job! I have an old tube radio, 50's record player, and metal detector that need Deoxit big time. After seeing your video I now have a lot better idea what I need to do. Thanks
Can’t thank you enough! Very helpful. This is the first video of yours that I have seen. I’ve subscribed. My one bit of advice for future videos would be to have a little desk type lamp turned on, particularly when showing small parts. But again very thankful for explaining so thoroughly. I’ve got an old Fisher model RS-1080 and the volume and tape monitor switches are giving me trouble so hopefully I can fix this myself.
I HAVE A INTAGE JONSON 123A CB RADIO . I BOUGHT THIS NEW IN 1975 . IT HAD BEEN IN STORAGE FOR 41 YEAR5. I TRIED WITH SO MUCH FORCE UNABLE TO LOOSEN IT. I BOUGHT A CAN OF DEOXIT D5 REMOVED THE OUTER CASE FROM THE RADIO ANS SPRAYED THE SWITCH CONTACTS WITHA SMALL AMOUNT OF CLEANER. TO MY SURPRISE IT WORKED "GREAT". THE CLEANER REMOVED T6HE GUMMED UP MESS AND THE RADIO WOPRKS GREAT.
My Skullcandy earbuds stopped charging properly, so I cleaned the charging terminals on the charger and the earbuds themselves with Deoxit D5.Worked beautifully
Looking up Stabilant 22 brought me to your video. Cleaning and enhancing contacts on a old 88 BMW 750il car on the fuse panels and corroded computer connectors. Now I'm glad I found this vid. Hated the fast dry contact cleaners at brick and mortar stores. Needed a slow drying solution and a cheaper contact enhancer like the deoxit contact maintenance kit. Stabilant is too expensive. Thank you sir.
Nice to see you back.. I'd love to use Deoxit D5, but it's around £30.00 over here in the UK.. For £12 (total), I get a separate cleaner and lubricator . Perhaps when we are free to do a trade deal with the U.S.A , it will reduce the price of Deoxit over here ?
you are really smart! I like all the names of the parts you're throwing at us. I guess the hard part is knowing where to spray. I wonder if that D5 would be good in key turning deals...like a door or even a vehicle ignition... thanks for your video!
Thank you for the informative video. I recently purchased a 1973 Kenwood KR-7200. It has cracking, unclear sound after switching or turning volume up/down. I’m ordering Deoxit now and will try cleaning it this weekend.
If you want to get rid of the stains, turn it inside out, then put a towel under the back side. Spray from the "inside" to push the stain back out the way it came in. Use your CRC spray, and spray the area to wet it, and then scratch the cloth with a fingernail, etc. to break up the deoxit accumulation. Blot it with a paper towel, let it dry, and then wash it normally. It's also a home run to be washing those shirts inside out anyway. The logos last longer. The CRC spray is similar to what they used as a dry cleaning chemical years ago. I use it when I get grease on my clothes. Post back if it helps!
I have an electric motor that's inside a old Sony TC-630 reel to reel that's a little loud. (I actually took it apart and saw oil holes on the motor.) Would that lubricant spray be sufficient or would you recommend something else?
Thanks for informative video. Someone made a video concerned that Caig had changed the spray container from a separate straw to a permanent folding top with straw attached and no control over amount coming out of the straw. Now in 2024 is this a problem?
The problem with the Deoxit D5(red) is that it eats away at the carbon in the contacts, but the Deoxit F5(green) will not damage the carbon contacts. They do not warn you of this anywhere in their labeling.
Hi! Nice video, thank you! As you mentioned toward the end, some potentiometers have carbon strips inside them. In that case, probably FaderLube should be used on them, correct? Is there a way to tell what to expect inside the potentiometer without disassembling it (to decide whether to use D5 vs FaderLube)? For example, line or mic level pots on Pioneer RT-707, in case you are familiar with the machine: would I use D5 or FaderLube in that case? Thank you!
Thank you Sir for your informative video. I have used QD CRC electrical cleaner as a novice in the past but not the D5's. With your video I'm able to understand the different use of them. The reason I came across your video is because I've been wondering how to thoroughly clean some kitchen appliances that roaches have used to nest and do their business. Like to clean and get rid of the smells also. thank you as it's not just an informative video but the way that you explain the details with normal speed and tempo becomes easy to understand. A lot of video has a lot of sensationalism and sometimes you can't understand their speech. JCT:) #Drumx
Original Deoxit I used in the 90’s was originally formulated for the space shuttle, is no longer made in the percentage that it used to be. It is a cut down version of the original. The original Deoxit would molecularly bind to the metal. I don’t know if this stuff is the same.
Here’s a thought. In archeology, it’s well known that gold can sit for thousands of years in pretty nasty conditions, like damp gritty soil, and retain its original lustre. Dirt doesn’t even stick to it. It doesn’t really oxidize per se. So it seems to me that there should be fewer and different requirements for cleaning gold contacts than for cleaning and protecting other materials. I stand to be corrected of course.
@@wizzkid333 good guess, but even with current, oxidation is negligible. I'm guessing the reason for a separate product, is that gold can be Too good a conductor. If components conduct more than 50 volts, and (I think) more than 100 Mega amps, electricity can arc and melt the gold plating off. It's also soft and easy to scratch and rub off. Actually, I'm not sure what 100amplifiers is getting at, since DeOxy and others make separate gold cleaning products, so I'm not sure what point he's trying to make with "archeology", etc.
Gold plating is porous. Sometimes there is a nickel underplating which is hard and hopefully has a different pore structure to minimize pore alignments and prevent copper difusion. Also gold contact plating likely has a small percentage of other metals for mechanical reasons. I don't know what too good of a conductor would be? Gold plated solid copper buss bar connected together with gold plated bolts pass ridiculous currents in magnetizing fixtures.
Thank you, very insightful, I have the stuff, but never sure which one to use for what. I have a couple cleaning and service projects to do soon, this video has been very helpful. Thanx again.
WD40 works great on scratchy pots... Back in the 80's we had this stuff called AMP compound from Amphenol that worked miracles on corrosion but it made you sick from the smell and we stopped using it, don't know what was in it but it had a flowery smell that would turn your stomach. (It was also very expensive) One of the techs tried WD40 and while it wasn't quite as good as the AMP stuff, it worked very well.
Electronic cleaners are basically TWO TYPES: Evaporative and Lubricating. D5 and CRC are EVAPORTIVE, Faderlube, the Maxpro you show are LUBRICATING. Same with WD40. NOW, you want to use the EVAPORATIVE type for most switches and places you dont want to attract dirt later. A function switch for AM/FM (or band switch in a radio) if you use a lubricating cleaner, it will kill the shortwave or FM. Deoxit used to always be evaporative but in the last 20 years the maker Caig decided to put the name on just about everything they make. You can get the same products for much less money from other makers. WD40 actually works fine for most rotational pots.
What about the boards them selves? I saw at 24:17 the board was really dirty/gunky, Do we need to clean these or just blow the dust off? Thankyou, great video
Great informative video! Very much appreciated. Your presentation was spot on! I enjoyed spending a few minutes with you and learning in the process. I have an old mixer to clean up and I'm sure you will have increased my potential for success exponentially! Thanks!
OK, you kind of answered my question right at the end. I was thinking of using an isopropyl alcohol spray or CRC QD Cleaner first because they're relatively cheap and would be used as a first "flush" of a pot or open contact. Then I can understand why you would use DeOxit D5 to add a little different cleaning chemical and a lubricant. But, why wouldn't you use the Max Pro lube? Is that only for electrical connections that "snap" together rather than potentiometers?
Wish I would’ve seen this earlier, I used the 5 on a fader for a Roland 2480CD Mixer and it’s permanently stuck. I used the F5 after but the damage was done 😩
I stumbled onto your video. Thank you as it is very informative. I purchased Deoxit D5 because the plug between my door jam and door has multiple small round pins that have a greenish tint to them. I sprayed the product and reseated the plug multiple times to get it clean on several occasions but the greenish tint (corrosion) is still there and it’s affecting (I think) my door locks. Do you have any suggestions on a product that will remove this greenish tint off of the pins of the plug? Thank you for a great video.
Thank you so much for the 30 minute video. I would love to hear from you in what are your recommendations for cleaning video game consoles and pc components like the motherboard and GPU if they are really dirty. You cracked me up with the shirt story. Thank you so much.
The stains on your shirt look like oil or grease stains probably from the residual lube in the Deoxit. I got out similar stains out from my tee shirts even after drying them. I used oil eater and it took them right out. Oil Eater will cause some slight fading. You will probably have to buy a gallon from Tractor Supply or Amazon but for oil it works amazing.
That little opening at the top is a stop for the pot so that it doesn't keep turning, that area is where the "feel" grease is located. Not really a good place to use Deoxit as it will dissolve all that grease so the pot will not "feel" (it will become too easy to turn) the same any longer because all the grease was removed. It should be sprayed on the wiper/track side which is where the pot solder contacts are. The hole there is much larger and will actually clean the pot.
Just be careful not to get the lube spray in the string for a dial. You don't want the string slipping on the driving shaft. Better to lube those pulleys with a pecision tip or spray some into a small container then use a toothpick to get some on the shaft.
Hello! Thanks for the videos! Can you tell me if I need the D5 or F5 for these two problems (on Mackie Onyx-i mixers): 1) Noisy pots and 2) Noisy/Bad contact switches. The pots have very little noise but the switches (mute, mostly) sometimes keep one side of the pan mute. Thanks!!!
amazon picked up a large can Deoxit red can D5 I have 5 Receivers and 2 older ones are having volume problems I have one receiver with static coming for speakers I have replaced all speaker wire still have static I will open it and clean Thanks its nice to know what to use and how !
If you ever update this video, can you talk about the Deoxit mechanical/electrical grease (L260DNp). I've cleaned a few pots and seemed to lose some of the viscous or "silky" feel to the unit. Was wondering if this grease would be useful to restore some of the feel of the pot? And, where would you pit it....on the wipers or just the shaft?
I’d try D-Limonene on the stains. If that doesn’t get them nothing will 😄 I usually just use a cheapo cleaner which contains it like some kind of goo remover. The key is making sure it actually has D-Limonene in it.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you have to be careful about using DeOxit F5 instead of D5 for potentiometers because they have a carbon track. I've read you can damage pots using D5.
It’s a corrective maintenance, better than nothing, also, you need to let the product to “cure” let the solvent to evaporate, it will work better after 24 hours you applied!! Personal experience!! 😊
Craig Hollabaugh Overspray, bad for high Z circuits, yes. I have been working on older Keithley electrometers (100’s of Gohm Z) which use the Teflon isolated, silver plated switches and spring contacts. One needs to be very careful and selective about where one applies deoxit after the contacts are clean. I have been using 1 and 2mm makeup brushes to selectively apply the product.
@@materialsguy2002 Silver or rhodium plated contacts? I'd expect the latter given the zero corrosion or abrasion from use of rhodium. Silver is as soft as poo - tissue paper will easily scratch it and sure oxidises quickly.
Hello. I have a nice working, lightly used Sansui AU-555a amplifier that has crackling noise issues when I use the Volume, Balance and Mode function knobs. I would like to clean those pots and switches myself. Should I use the Deoxit5 and then a small squirt of the Max Pro lube? From your video that sounds about right to me. I've never had the cover case off but had those three parts cleaned by a professional many years ago. Thanks. A.
Thank you for a great explanation! I was using CRC, I THINK it was number 2000 for years, for audio gear. (Dark blue can) If you spray it on your fingertips it dried in about one second and left ZERO residue. IOW, it was more for fine electronics like you are talking about instead of 480 Volt breaker switches. LOL! I am wondering what would be best for inside an older computer? Probably the Deoxit gold? If the wrong cleaner is used in one of those, it will turn into a brick! Have a great week!
Is the Deoxit 5 the best thing to use to clean the input jacks on the back of the receiver? They are green and corroded and would like to get them polished and shiny. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing all the info and knowledge, very useful. In a separate note you don’t happen to have a bass shaft for a Pioneer SX-1250? Mine got broken. Thanks in advance
That blue pot near the end: I saw people cleaning pots with deoxit just thru the axle - it enters the pot between the axle and the guide. Don't know if it will work on the blue one.
I assume this will this work on the gain knob on my mtx powered subwoofer. When ever the bass gets heavy i notice the volume seems to fluctuate. Same for when i adjust the knob. It is scratchy.
Wow... Too much information is not enough! The details of the whole dirty pot issue is DEEP. Here in Australia, one can of this Deoxit spray costs around 55 dollars. New CTS pots are 15. SO, if you love to have perfection and you are skilled enough to use a soldering iron, then go this way. If you don't own the soldering gear, then Deoxit is cool. If you are a service tech, then Deoxit is fast and easy, but you would know replacement is needed in some cases where spray is ineffective.
SILIMEX SILIJET E PLUS In Mexico it is used to replace Caig Deoxit D5 Here it comes to us exaggeratedly expensive, triple the price in the United States. Thank you for taking the time to make this video learned a lot
Finally, after watching so many videos that imply how to use these products, you have explained and shown exactly how to clean potentiometers et. al. on any electronic component. I was looking for a video that would show me exactly how to do this. Now I can get my old multiband radios to work so much better. Your video is the standard for these products. Thank you.
When my local Radio Shack was going out of business, they were blowing out D5 for $5 a can, and Gold for $7 a can. I loaded up.
That's some very helpful information
You and me both. I cleaned them out. Ended up with 3 cans of D5 and 2 cans of Gold.
I miss Radio Shack. They always seemed to have everything I was looking for at the time.
RIP: Radio Shack
Now that's sound investing .
I’m jealous. I have to pay $45 for a single can and I need it for a Christmas present so I can’t wait for a reasonable price 😭
Excellent Deoxit guide. Everyone sprays it, few take the time to explain it. Good Job.
This video is exactly what I needed to watch. CRC is what I buy and is usually the only brand offered at the general retail level where I live. I knew that it's application was blast and clean only which it does well at but also knew it had no lubricative properties which is the back half of the cleaning/maintenance procedure. Learrning here of these of these 2 previously unknown products, Deoxit D5 and F5 with its conductive lubricants, fills in that missing gap. As always in many cases, I am not researching a particular subject, I merely happen across it but has information about something I knew I had some ignorance gaps with but knew I needed to know more about. I thank you for sharing your knowledge and the time you took to compile it. I stopped the video at 18:39 to pen this so I need to watch the rest of your video presentation, then, ......................................off to Amazon I go to order some Deoxit D5/F5. Just so You know, I hit the Subscribe button already.
Another great video. I cleaned and lubricated all the strips on a Jupiter 8 a while back and can now see that it's something I'll have to eventually consider a least partially doing again someday. And here I thought I was done with that fix forever (wishful thinking). Glad to know i used the right fluids for the right things. I guess the guys at the shop gave me correct info.
Something I've done with the sealed pots at 28:00 is carefully drill a small hole on the front and back to spay contact cleaner. You have to saturate the entire volume so the other hole acts as a drain. Then I push air through it at low pressure and seal it up with a small piece of Kapton tape. This is risky but in the world of vintage equipment most of the time there are no replacement parts. Many people also desire to keep as many original parts as possible for aesthetics.
I have do this method with the trigger switch on my Bosch drill once a year. I love the drill but the OEM charges 50% of the drill price for a part that will just fail in another year.
As a first time D5 user on a 50 year old Akia reel-to-reel, I found this video very helpful. Glad I found it. Thanks!
Really helpful - thanks for de-mystifying the Deoxit line plus other products - I'm sure I not the only one who was confused.
Hi, what an exceptional video!!! Clearly explained and no "Fluff" fillers. Thank you for taking time to share this info sir!
Thank you so very much!!
I’m a retired aerospace engineer with a long term appreciation of Macintosh gear. I ordered Deoxit D5 and F5 and am looking forward to correcting noisey potentiometers on my C39 preamp and MC7270.
Really excellent video . I have been using Motomaster Electrical contact cleaner for a decade with good results. It dries faster than D5 - but not too fast. I'm almost out so I'm going to order some actual Deoxit. One thing I found an alternative use of contact cleaner (in general) was to remove stickers from paper. It is the most effective NON STAINING method I have ever come across. I found out it was the Heptane that is found inside these contact cleaners .. that appears to be a key ingredient of Electical cleaners outside of acetone, alcohol and minearl spirits. So I'm going to order just heptane for the stickers..but it could be more expensive than buying the contact cleaner...and maybe less convenient. I have to remove 50 year old stickers off of various types of paper because I sell rare vintage LP records - and many times you find price stickers on the labels of the 45 singles..and that's probabliy the most tenuous to remove. Who else went through trying to remove stubborn stickers with lighter fluid or that orange 'gunk' remover.. both useless in so many situations. Sometimes lighter fluid would dry the glue to a concrete and make it harder to remove LOL Cool to know Heptane comes from Jack Pine.. so another family of solvents from Pine.. cool . THANKS AGAIN FOR THE EDUCATIONAL VIDEO.
Perhaps the most informative video I've ever seen on TH-cam. Well done!
"Hopefully you learned something today" ? Learning all you need in 30 minutes is what WAS needed....nice video...
Nice video, thanks for posting. Now for my opinions. Deoxit D100 followed by Gold is my "gold standard" for contacts. It seems to reduce recurring issues. I do not use D series on pots because I have heard from individuals who have had the carbon track destroyed by it. Whether it was a weak track to start with and would have failed anyway or an incompatibility with D5 we will never know. But why take the chance? F series only for pots is my rule. Also with the exception of QD I avoid the used of sprays wherever humanly possible because they spray. Everywhere that you don't want them to. There is very rarely a spot that I can't get to with D100 in the needle tip bottle, or a tiny drop on the end of a screwdriver or dental pick. If I must spray I pack the paper towel around the target BEFORE I spray. Whatever you do, don't let the stuff get on your front panel. It may clean up OK, but it could also damage or discolor a painted surface.
I tried some other ways people say on YT and the ol baking soda , salt and vinegar solution didn't work on for RUST on my USB connector charging cable . What did work is toliet bowl cleaning liquid . If you read the label some of them says removes rust . I tried it once letting it sit for a minute . On the outside removed much of it . Had to use again letting it sit on INSIDE of USB connection for several minutes . Rinsed it off then dried sparingly with heat gun . Now works . USB cable is how my Craftsman rechargeable headlamp charges . verry handy
Inflation... The best deal is currently 36.94 on Amazon for two pack. 1-D5 and 1-F5.
Thank you for this info. I am about to tackle cleaning a Mackie 16 x 4 mixer that sat in a dusty environment and is almost mute. I would have bathed it with the CRC product had I not learned about the importance of re-lubricating the pots and sliders.
Deoxit saved a decades old C= computer CRT color monitor that was arcing out at the high voltage cap due to dust dirt and grime over years of use and storage. No more arcing and the picture is perfect.
I work on guitars and amps and use the crc to clean then go behind with the Deoxit F5 as well. At first I was a little weary of using the crc but I have seen no issues with it attacking the carbon or plastics so I still do. Heck it is only $4 for that huge can at the autoparts stores. Mineral spirits which is in deoxit is also a lubricant. You could probably clean pots with just mineral spirits with an eye dropper and save tons.
The F5 doesn't have the same chemicals as D5. It doesn't have the specific chemical that reversed oxidisation. It's great for flushing but won't take away the oxidisation like D5 will.
@@TheMatthooks the F5 is a cleaning and lubrication solvent, which works great on old gunked up vintage pots and sliders. It leaves behind a contact lubricating film. If you need it to work on extreme oxidation I guess you could use the other stuff. I use the crc that is probably harsher and evaporates all away for the heavy lifting then go behind with a small spray of F5 to lube and create a better conductive path that will last for a long time. most of the time the F5 on its own works great too its expensive so I use it sparingly.
In my profession I lubricate locks and I like to squeeze the plastic hose tip with needle nose pliers to collapse it to be more oval and thinner to enter tighter spots (like key holes). Thanks for the overview!
I learned about contact cleaner when I was in the Army electronics. In the 70’s I found LPS Contact Cleaner at the Offshore Technology Conference. The sales rep demonstrated how to get grease stains out of your clothes. He put some grease on his coat sleeve. Then he put a handkerchief inside his coat sleeve. Then he blew ths grease through the sleeve into the handkerchiefs using LPS Contact Cleaner. Maybe you should try contact cleaner to remove the Deoxit stains. Once they set in with the laundy, it may be impossible. Contact cleaner formulation has changed over the years and it used to be similar to the dry cleaning agent, carbon tetra chloride which is not available anymore.
I don’t have any old audio stuff to worry about. My audio equipment is remote controlled. I don’t like to clean my electronics with an oil because it can attract dust and dirt. I picked your video to learn about Deoxit’s corrsion elimination properties. Good to know not to use it where oil is not wanted.
Thank you so much for your concise explanation of these cleaners, lubricants, pots and potentiometers. I could now decide which product to use and where to use them!
Thanks for the straightforward breakdown - much appreciated!
Very good tutorial on cleaners and lubricants. I wish there was a guy like you in my hood. I like old electronics and try to maintain them. I now have some better information. I replaced an old Soundcraftsmen equalizer with a newer version because the old one was popping when switched on, possibly frying my right channel on my amp. The newer version is no where as good. I had to replace my amp with a used one as well because they no longer make them with the jacks for the equalizer. I am not happy with it either. Thanks again for your expertise. Hector
Thank you for taking the time to explain the different types and the adequate use of these cleaners. Very informative en well done.
What a great video! I should have learned this stuff long ago. I use these cleaners all the time but i didn't know when to use and when not to use for the right job. Thank you!
I to had the same problem. I now wear an apron when I work in the shop. I will report the incidence of damaged clothing has decreased dramatically. Take care, God bless
FWIW im sure you kow this but for others in most modern recording studios the faders are optical encoders, the entire audio path is digital. Even the analog stages in high end gear use digitally controlled VCAs with digital controls.
I have one 20yo MOTU 8 channel mic pre that uses pots for gain to keep the cost down but pretty much all the other recording gear i use (MOTU, Audient, Expert Sleepers) has no analog controls (the Expert Sleepers DACs dont have controls, or a display, at all lmao). Even my old Onkyo amp has just one rotary encoder and a bunch of switches.
The cheap Holts electronic cleaner i have lists >30% Naptha and >60% isopropanol in its warnings, so basically the solvent used in deoxit. I havent looked up the CRC Quick Dry.
Ventilate well, everyone.
FWIW from what i can gather the most effective method to clean open potentiometers like faders without disassembly is to start with a 'no residue' electronic cleaner like naptha or iPA (or chrolothane if youre game) to wash, work the control to free stuff, follow with compressed air to flow debris and solvent free, and then fader lubricant (Either the Dow-Corning Penny and Giles recommend or whatever your manufacturer recommends if you can find some, or the ubiquitous deoxit F series).
I've been a tech for a long time, gotta clean my own out of production penny and giles motorfaders and i have never in my life been so stressed cleaning a contact lmao.
Great job! I have an old tube radio, 50's record player, and metal detector that need Deoxit big time. After seeing your video I now have a lot better idea what I need to do. Thanks
Can’t thank you enough! Very helpful. This is the first video of yours that I have seen. I’ve subscribed. My one bit of advice for future videos would be to have a little desk type lamp turned on, particularly when showing small parts. But again very thankful for explaining so thoroughly. I’ve got an old Fisher model RS-1080 and the volume and tape monitor switches are giving me trouble so hopefully I can fix this myself.
Great video! Now I know what to use on specific parts of my electronic equipment.
I HAVE A INTAGE JONSON 123A CB RADIO . I BOUGHT THIS NEW IN 1975 . IT HAD BEEN IN STORAGE FOR 41 YEAR5. I TRIED WITH SO MUCH FORCE UNABLE TO LOOSEN IT. I BOUGHT A CAN OF DEOXIT D5 REMOVED THE OUTER CASE FROM THE RADIO ANS SPRAYED THE SWITCH CONTACTS WITHA SMALL AMOUNT OF CLEANER. TO MY SURPRISE IT WORKED "GREAT". THE CLEANER REMOVED T6HE GUMMED UP MESS AND THE RADIO WOPRKS GREAT.
My Skullcandy earbuds stopped charging properly, so I cleaned the charging terminals on the charger and the earbuds themselves with Deoxit D5.Worked beautifully
Great tutorial and glad I found you! A friend of mine has a very old (40yrs) Nutone Intercom with a radio and this I believe is what it needs.
Looking up Stabilant 22 brought me to your video. Cleaning and enhancing contacts on a old 88 BMW 750il car on the fuse panels and corroded computer connectors. Now I'm glad I found this vid. Hated the fast dry contact cleaners at brick and mortar stores. Needed a slow drying solution and a cheaper contact enhancer like the deoxit contact maintenance kit. Stabilant is too expensive. Thank you sir.
Nice to see you back.. I'd love to use Deoxit D5, but it's around £30.00 over here in the UK.. For £12 (total), I get a separate cleaner and lubricator . Perhaps when we are free to do a trade deal with the U.S.A , it will reduce the price of Deoxit over here ?
you are really smart! I like all the names of the parts you're throwing at us. I guess the hard part is knowing where to spray. I wonder if that D5 would be good in key turning deals...like a door or even a vehicle ignition... thanks for your video!
Thank you for the informative video. I recently purchased a 1973 Kenwood KR-7200. It has cracking, unclear sound after switching or turning volume up/down. I’m ordering Deoxit now and will try cleaning it this weekend.
Never used Deoxit before (or even heard about it), so that was very helpful. Thank you.
If you want to get rid of the stains, turn it inside out, then put a towel under the back side. Spray from the "inside" to push the stain back out the way it came in.
Use your CRC spray, and spray the area to wet it, and then scratch the cloth with a fingernail, etc. to break up the deoxit accumulation.
Blot it with a paper towel, let it dry, and then wash it normally.
It's also a home run to be washing those shirts inside out anyway. The logos last longer.
The CRC spray is similar to what they used as a dry cleaning chemical years ago. I use it when I get grease on my clothes.
Post back if it helps!
Right on target about how confusing all the different products are. Thank you so much for this clarification.
New subscriber. I love the level of technical detail in this video!!! Thanks!
I have an electric motor that's inside a old Sony TC-630 reel to reel that's a little loud. (I actually took it apart and saw oil holes on the motor.) Would that lubricant spray be sufficient or would you recommend something else?
Thanks man , you educated me big time ! I only knew what Deoxit did not how to use it .But i do now . Thanks .
TREMENDOUSLY INFORMATIVE!!!! I watched the whole thing and learned a ton!! Many thanks from Canada!
Thank you for taking the time to put this together. I found it most helpful. :)
Thank-you, Soo helpfull. There are many products to choose from, Deoxit is the go to product among many of my tech friends.
Thanks for informative video. Someone made a video concerned that Caig had changed the spray container from a separate straw to a permanent folding top with straw attached and no control over amount coming out of the straw. Now in 2024 is this a problem?
The problem with the Deoxit D5(red) is that it eats away at the carbon in the contacts, but the Deoxit F5(green) will not damage the carbon contacts. They do not warn you of this anywhere in their labeling.
I think the video should be revised to discuss this issue because it is of vital importance!
Great video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have several amps that need cleaning, and this is a big help!
Soooooo informative, who knows how many devices you saved from misconduct
Hi! Nice video, thank you! As you mentioned toward the end, some potentiometers have carbon strips inside them. In that case, probably FaderLube should be used on them, correct? Is there a way to tell what to expect inside the potentiometer without disassembling it (to decide whether to use D5 vs FaderLube)? For example, line or mic level pots on Pioneer RT-707, in case you are familiar with the machine: would I use D5 or FaderLube in that case? Thank you!
Thank you Sir for your informative video. I have used QD CRC electrical cleaner as a novice in the past but not the D5's. With your video I'm able to understand the different use of them. The reason I came across your video is because I've been wondering how to thoroughly clean some kitchen appliances that roaches have used to nest and do their business. Like to clean and get rid of the smells also. thank you as it's not just an informative video but the way that you explain the details with normal speed and tempo becomes easy to understand. A lot of video has a lot of sensationalism and sometimes you can't understand their speech. JCT:)
#Drumx
Great video, man!! Thank you so much for this break down! **THUMBS UP**
Original Deoxit I used in the 90’s was originally formulated for the space shuttle, is no longer made in the percentage that it used to be. It is a cut down version of the original. The original Deoxit would molecularly bind to the metal. I don’t know if this stuff is the same.
Here’s a thought. In archeology, it’s well known that gold can sit for thousands of years in pretty nasty conditions, like damp gritty soil, and retain its original lustre. Dirt doesn’t even stick to it. It doesn’t really oxidize per se. So it seems to me that there should be fewer and different requirements for cleaning gold contacts than for cleaning and protecting other materials. I stand to be corrected of course.
i think the oxidation on gold contacts are caused by the electrical current so i read somewhere. anyone confirm?
@@wizzkid333 good guess, but even with current, oxidation is negligible. I'm guessing the reason for a separate product, is that gold can be Too good a conductor. If components conduct more than 50 volts, and (I think) more than 100 Mega amps, electricity can arc and melt the gold plating off. It's also soft and easy to scratch and rub off. Actually, I'm not sure what 100amplifiers is getting at, since DeOxy and others make separate gold cleaning products, so I'm not sure what point he's trying to make with "archeology", etc.
Gold plating is porous. Sometimes there is a nickel underplating which is hard and hopefully has a different pore structure to minimize pore alignments and prevent copper difusion. Also gold contact plating likely has a small percentage of other metals for mechanical reasons. I don't know what too good of a conductor would be? Gold plated solid copper buss bar connected together with gold plated bolts pass ridiculous currents in magnetizing fixtures.
Thank you, very insightful, I have the stuff, but never sure which one to use for what. I have a couple cleaning and service projects to do soon, this video has been very helpful. Thanx again.
WD40 works great on scratchy pots... Back in the 80's we had this stuff called AMP compound from Amphenol that worked miracles on corrosion but it made you sick from the smell and we stopped using it, don't know what was in it but it had a flowery smell that would turn your stomach. (It was also very expensive) One of the techs tried WD40 and while it wasn't quite as good as the AMP stuff, it worked very well.
Bought some CRC for my speed wheel on my PL-5 record player worked good. No more random speed changes.
Amazingly comprehensive and helpful. Thank you so much for this!
Electronic cleaners are basically TWO TYPES: Evaporative and Lubricating. D5 and CRC are EVAPORTIVE, Faderlube, the Maxpro you show are LUBRICATING. Same with WD40. NOW, you want to use the EVAPORATIVE type for most switches and places you dont want to attract dirt later. A function switch for AM/FM (or band switch in a radio) if you use a lubricating cleaner, it will kill the shortwave or FM. Deoxit used to always be evaporative but in the last 20 years the maker Caig decided to put the name on just about everything they make. You can get the same products for much less money from other makers. WD40 actually works fine for most rotational pots.
Thank you. A lot of the old cleaners are no longer available.
I've used CRC on pot switches and seemed to be good. But, I didn't know they had lubricant in them. So, I'll be going with Dioxit in the future.
Hope you are well man! Remember ,, you must walk everyday!!
What about the boards them selves? I saw at 24:17 the board was really dirty/gunky, Do we need to clean these or just blow the dust off? Thankyou, great video
Great informative video! Very much appreciated. Your presentation was spot on! I enjoyed spending a few minutes with you and learning in the process. I have an old mixer to clean up and I'm sure you will have increased my potential for success exponentially! Thanks!
OK, you kind of answered my question right at the end. I was thinking of using an isopropyl alcohol spray or CRC QD Cleaner first because they're relatively cheap and would be used as a first "flush" of a pot or open contact. Then I can understand why you would use DeOxit D5 to add a little different cleaning chemical and a lubricant. But, why wouldn't you use the Max Pro lube? Is that only for electrical connections that "snap" together rather than potentiometers?
Wish I would’ve seen this earlier, I used the 5 on a fader for a Roland 2480CD Mixer and it’s permanently stuck. I used the F5 after but the damage was done 😩
I stumbled onto your video. Thank you as it is very informative. I purchased Deoxit D5 because the plug between my door jam and door has multiple small round pins that have a greenish tint to them. I sprayed the product and reseated the plug multiple times to get it clean on several occasions but the greenish tint (corrosion) is still there and it’s affecting (I think) my door locks. Do you have any suggestions on a product that will remove this greenish tint off of the pins of the plug? Thank you for a great video.
Thank you so much for the 30 minute video. I would love to hear from you in what are your recommendations for cleaning video game consoles and pc components like the motherboard and GPU if they are really dirty. You cracked me up with the shirt story. Thank you so much.
The stains on your shirt look like oil or grease stains probably from the residual lube in the Deoxit. I got out similar stains out from my tee shirts even after drying them. I used oil eater and it took them right out. Oil Eater will cause some slight fading. You will probably have to buy a gallon from Tractor Supply or Amazon but for oil it works amazing.
That little opening at the top is a stop for the pot so that it doesn't keep turning, that area is where the "feel" grease is located. Not really a good place to use Deoxit as it will dissolve all that grease so the pot will not "feel" (it will become too easy to turn) the same any longer because all the grease was removed. It should be sprayed on the wiper/track side which is where the pot solder contacts are. The hole there is much larger and will actually clean the pot.
The fader is essentially a linear potentiometer.
Great, Thanks. I'm restoring my TASCAM 246 and your info is a great help!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video learned a lot electrician getting into Electronics much appreciate the knowledge
CRC QD Contact Cleaner and use Deoxit Fader F5 afterward seems the best way to go?
Just be careful not to get the lube spray in the string for a dial. You don't want the string slipping on the driving shaft. Better to lube those pulleys with a pecision tip or spray some into a small container then use a toothpick to get some on the shaft.
What product do you use for cleaning filthy circuit boards
Hello! Thanks for the videos! Can you tell me if I need the D5 or F5 for these two problems (on Mackie Onyx-i mixers): 1) Noisy pots and 2) Noisy/Bad contact switches. The pots have very little noise but the switches (mute, mostly) sometimes keep one side of the pan mute. Thanks!!!
amazon picked up a large can Deoxit red can D5 I have 5 Receivers and 2 older ones are having volume problems I have one receiver with static coming for speakers I have replaced all speaker wire still have static I will open it and clean Thanks its nice to know what to use and how !
Thanks! At long last Deoxit Demystified indeed!
Fantastic video thank you. It answered all the questions I had.
Fantastic!! Thank you very much for this thorough tutorial.
I also have *D100L* in Red & Blue. Great for contacts on wafer switches.
If you ever update this video, can you talk about the Deoxit mechanical/electrical grease (L260DNp). I've cleaned a few pots and seemed to lose some of the viscous or "silky" feel to the unit. Was wondering if this grease would be useful to restore some of the feel of the pot? And, where would you pit it....on the wipers or just the shaft?
I’d try D-Limonene on the stains. If that doesn’t get them nothing will 😄 I usually just use a cheapo cleaner which contains it like some kind of goo remover. The key is making sure it actually has D-Limonene in it.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you have to be careful about using DeOxit F5 instead of D5 for potentiometers because they have a carbon track. I've read you can damage pots using D5.
I've also heard that D5 can damage carbon tracks.
It’s a corrective maintenance, better than nothing, also, you need to let the product to “cure” let the solvent to evaporate, it will work better after 24 hours you applied!! Personal experience!! 😊
Five years since this video came out and now 5 oz. of Deoxit D5 is $30. Crazy!!
Thank you, I learned a great deal of useful information, You are making my life easier.
Blueglow Electronics ? Why not drill a small hole on the side or at a angle on that blue potentiometer, so you can spray lube in there ?
Thanks for the video. I've been using the bottled deoxit with dental pick brushes to clean tube sockets. No overspray. Glad to hear from you.
Craig Hollabaugh Overspray, bad for high Z circuits, yes. I have been working on older Keithley electrometers (100’s of Gohm Z) which use the Teflon isolated, silver plated switches and spring contacts. One needs to be very careful and selective about where one applies deoxit after the contacts are clean. I have been using 1 and 2mm makeup brushes to selectively apply the product.
@@materialsguy2002 Silver or rhodium plated contacts? I'd expect the latter given the zero corrosion or abrasion from use of rhodium. Silver is as soft as poo - tissue paper will easily scratch it and sure oxidises quickly.
Hello. I have a nice working, lightly used Sansui AU-555a amplifier that has crackling noise issues when I use the Volume, Balance and Mode function knobs. I would like to clean those pots and switches myself. Should I use the Deoxit5 and then a small squirt of the Max Pro lube? From your video that sounds about right to me. I've never had the cover case off but had those three parts cleaned by a professional many years ago. Thanks. A.
Thank you for a great explanation! I was using CRC, I THINK it was number 2000 for years, for audio gear. (Dark blue can) If you spray it on your fingertips it dried in about one second and left ZERO residue. IOW, it was more for fine electronics like you are talking about instead of 480 Volt breaker switches. LOL! I am wondering what would be best for inside an older computer? Probably the Deoxit gold? If the wrong cleaner is used in one of those, it will turn into a brick! Have a great week!
Is the Deoxit 5 the best thing to use to clean the input jacks on the back of the receiver? They are green and corroded and would like to get them polished and shiny. Thanks.
A great video, very informative, thank you!
Thanks for sharing all the info and knowledge, very useful. In a separate note you don’t happen to have a bass shaft for a Pioneer SX-1250? Mine got broken. Thanks in advance
Once you spray the movment from smooth changes to rough or Not smooth on the volume slider. Why can it not retain to be smooth?
That blue pot near the end: I saw people cleaning pots with deoxit just thru the axle - it enters the pot between the axle and the guide. Don't know if it will work on the blue one.
I assume this will this work on the gain knob on my mtx powered subwoofer. When ever the bass gets heavy i notice the volume seems to fluctuate. Same for when i adjust the knob. It is scratchy.
Wow... Too much information is not enough! The details of the whole dirty pot issue is DEEP. Here in Australia, one can of this Deoxit spray costs around 55 dollars. New CTS pots are 15. SO, if you love to have perfection and you are skilled enough to use a soldering iron, then go this way.
If you don't own the soldering gear, then Deoxit is cool.
If you are a service tech, then Deoxit is fast and easy, but you would know replacement is needed in some cases where spray is ineffective.
SILIMEX SILIJET E PLUS In Mexico it is used to replace Caig Deoxit D5 Here it comes to us exaggeratedly expensive, triple the price in the United States.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video learned a lot
This is a product especially designed for faders and potentiometer, any other products will corrode the inside of the components!!