Flashforge Adventurer 3 fails and how to fix them
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มี.ค. 2020
- The Flashforge Adventurer 3 is an amazing and well known 3d printer. So more than a few eyebrows were raised when makerbot announced their new "sketch" classroom, and it came with some familiar looking hardware. Is makerbot becoming a licensed flashforge reseller, or is there more to this?
Flashforge Adventure 3: amzn.to/3apTSKv
Monoprice Voxel: amzn.to/3dCjplt
Be sure to print this adapter: www.thingiverse.com/thing:369...
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Oh, I forgot to explain that gag I did at the beginning: www.3dpprofessor.com/2020/03/28/is-makerbot-stealing-from-flashforge/
"The Makerbot Sketch includes a “Particulate Filter”, which the Adventure 3 does not have."
Ah - nice - the model I bought last week actually has dont just that what you did there - they added a small magnetic air filter that one can just put over the ventilation fan of the Flashforge instrument. Luckily that did not double the price.
Got my flashforge adventurer 3 for Christmas and I'm loving it. Its so easy to use😎👍
I was one of the people who bought the wooden ff creator dual, because it was cheaper at the time, so its interesting to watch this. Planning to update it big time!
I got mine 3 days ago and just saved me lots of pla and 10 hour printing time for external reel I was printing adaptor is awesome!
I recently replaced the print surface with PEI (Gizmo Dorks brand to be specific) and I absolutely love it! Everything sticks perfectly without any glue and prints pop right off once it's cooled. It's a bit pricey compared to BuildTak but it's totally worth it. I've never used a better build surface.
I kind of want to upgrade but at the same time the buildtak sticker is *relatively* effective, affordable, and durable. It has been zero maintenance other than a quick isopropyl alcohol wipedown. Sometimes I have to raise temps a bit to get something to stick without a raft, but if I have any complaint it's that when something sticks TOO well, I may have to reheat the plate and possibly even pop it in the freezer briefly. When it needs replacement, it's peel and stick.
With that being said, if someone makes a peel and stick precut PEI for the Adventurer 3 build plate (or a precut build plate with one pre-applied) I'd still consider it.
I use PEI, too. I do not want anything other. I have 2 Build plates with PEI and so i only have to swap the plates and can imediatelly print again. The printer is worth the price. Not everything is perfect but i can print most things i want. Normaly i use PETG.
Great video, very informative. Thank you, looking forward to more.
I've had my Adventurer 3 for less than a month and I'm already over 200 hours! I focus on functional parts from ABS more than models or doodads with PLA, so I appreciate the closed design. I have a custom printed rear exhaust adapter that mates perfectly between the rear exhaust vent on the Adventurer 3 and a standard 4" flex hose (like a clothes dryer uses). I vent the machine outside using a blower motor. I can't believe that open printer designs are so popular, printing ABS smells like cutting into a plastic pipe with an angle grinder (yuck!). The PLA is much less stinky, but I doubt that breathing it is good for you so it gets vented outside as well.
I love my little Adventurer 3. It was my first 3D printer and so easy to get set up with and printing. My first print took me ages to figure out how to get the raft off the print bed but since then I've had no issues. Other than the occasional knocking from the feeder which I get sorted out this machine has been solid. Loved it so much I got a Creator Pro 2 but was surprised that the newer, more expensive machine doesn't have the features that makes the Adventurer 3 so easy to use like wifi and ethernet.
how did you fix feeder knocking???
@@stevesuave1874 this issue is almost always due to the nozzle being too close to the build plate. The problem is that these printers do the level process when the nozzle and build plate is cold. When you then want to print something the nozzle and bed will expand slightly which makes the nozzle too close to the bed, so there is not enough space for the filament to come out, this caused the extruder to click and knock as it is trying to push filament but it is not coming out the nozzle at the correct speed. This will often then create filament to back up in the nozzle and create a clog.
@@stuartpollock84 did you fix it with releveling?
I love this video. I wish I had watched when my new FlashForge arrived in the mail not long ago. :)
Mine randomly goes haywire and smashes what I'm making. It will move to a spot it shouldn't, and just go DOWN.
Interesting. Have you contacted FlashForge support? They're fantastic.
Thanks for keeping the content going.
I am new to 3D printing and recently bought the Adventurer 3 lite printer. At first things were running very well with no issues for a week until a got a notification on the screen asking for an update which l did. However, ever since the update all my prints that once printed in the center of the bed and ran smoothly have been causing the printer the jam itself. The bed slides all the way to the front door and the printer attempts to print on the center back edges of the bed causing the bed to jam against the door and the extruder to crash against the edges. I have tried everything like factory resetting, moving my models around the Flashprint 5, changing the starting point numbers in the slicer but nothing has worked so far. Do you know how to print on the center of the bed and why its been acting this way to fix it?
I am having a trouble getting the bed level/first layer adhering on my Flashforge A3. Can I use glue stick on PLA? Any other suggestions? Do you know of a way to reset the leveling settings to factory specs? I do love this printer!
Yes you can! In fact they now send gluestick out with most of their 3D printers.
Hi 3D Printing Professor, I have a Adventurer 3 aswell but Inhave a problem with it. When I print the extruder is making a clinking sound. It looks like it is skipping steps or something. Do younhave any idea to fix that ? If have try'd everything but without success. Regards, Michael
So, if it's infrequent, that might simply be the sound of the retraction. If it's happening too often and the print is coming out crunchy or stringy, you might want to try turning up the temperature 10C, and confirming that you're using the right temperature for the filament.
With the issue of the z axis there are backend replacement for those screws and it fixes the z issue
I actually had a major flaw with mine so after fixing it after it was clogged I noticed the fan was too high I so I need to go use another 3-D printer that of my friends to print out a new bottom for it and now it works just fine so you might want to check the level of your fan it should be like just meeting the nozzle mine was above its
Can you share the link for the spool adapter? Thanks!
Thanks. Added to the description. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3692572
I remember when CNET gave a non-functional Markerbot printer at a convention "best in show."
I just got one a few days ago haven’t fully watch the video I will probably come and edit my comment but I recognize a clicking noise where it won’t push the filament going to figure that out but besides that it’s super easy I do have a question where can I get the adapter for different spools?
Added the filament adaptor to the description.
I musta got lucky! It was a warehouse special too! Runs GREAT! Makes a slight groaning sound sometimes, not sure if its nozzle drag but only does it once in a while. Otherwise, solid machine.
I got mine for super cheap ( I got the pro too) I also heard the groans and run into the other room where my PC and the printer is to find it's fine :)
I have the adventurer 3 pro, I bought it new about 5 months ago, and have only used it 3 or 4 times. I have noticed that no matter what I try to print, part of the print lifts away from the build plate on the left side (as you are looking at the front), I have reached out to flashforge for assistance but have yet to hear back. Any idea as to what may be happening?
On the left side? Have you updated to the latest firmware and run the 9 point leveling procedure? You should be able to move the left side down just a little so that it stick better.
I like to do a test print of 9 printabloks at the 9 different leveling points, and watch the first print. I stop it a few layers up because it helps to be able to remove prints if there's a bit more meat on there. But when I make note of which points need to be adjusted up or down, then I rerun the leveling procedure and repeat.
Good luck!
Captain, thankyou for the vulcan knowledge. Monoprice should at the very least, make sure at point of sale that they inform any and all customers of that solution that you brought to our species attention, due to quality of life itself.
I am new to 3d printing and digging it but there isn't a lot of videos (Other than quick reviews) about this so I will ask this here. What settings should I be using for ABS and PLA? The defaults work for small easy prints.
In my experience the PLA defaults are fine for big prints, too. But ABS doesn't like big prints at all. The enclosure helps, but it doesn't solve all the problems with a material that was literally engineered to shrink.
Hi! I have an issue with my AD3, I always use a Raft and I use FlashPrint, but it if I use Cura even with a raft, it doesn’t stick to the platform and it drags the filament everywhere. Can I put hairspray to the sticker or what else can I do? I had made the calibration several times using the A4 paper. Thanks for the help!!
I don't know. I've never used cura. And I don't use a raft. If you properly calibrate your bed you shouldn't need it.
What does Cura do that Flashprint doesn't?
So i've recently gotten my hands on one of these machines and i've come across an issue you didnt seem to make a point on and i can't seem to find it anywhere.. about halfway into a print ill run into a sort of snag.. litterally. The nozzle will get caught on the print and either knock it clean off the print. Or start zipping around at breakneck speeds, ive tried calibrating the height about 3 times, ive tried turning upp and down the temperature. I cannot find a solution. Any help at all would be great
Wow. First of all, take that one to Flashforge support.
First troubleshooting step is to reproduce it under various conditions. Is it any 3D print file you try to print? Does it happen at a specific height, so shorter prints will succeed? Maybe there's a problem with the USB stick? Try a different one and see if that fixes it.
Good luck.
Do you have any experience with the Dremel DigiLab 3d20 printer? I'm thinking about getting one and can't find a good review on YT. Thanks for your time.
I do not. I've reached out to Dremel, but they haven't responded.
@@3dpprofessor Hopefully they respond soon.
I have the adventurer 3 pro and it's working like a dream so far. Haven't had any issues yet! It has a glass -non-removable base. It also comes with a second extruder that supports higher heat.
Hi I have Flash Forge Adventurer 3 and it's having a problem that maybe you can help. The first layer beings good then it beings to drift to the left. I was told to tighten the z belt and even check the stepper motor but still doing the same thing. could you please help me?
Maybe you need to apply some of the PTFE lube to the rods.
I would also say to contact flashforge support.
We have a 3D printer at our library. The nozzle part is going all the way over to the right instead of stopping in the center to print and jamming against the side of the unit, making a terrible noise like it is trying to feed the filament. Any ideas? Thanks!
Like I said in my email, the print head going to the right at the start of a print is completely normal. There's a sensor to the right and that's how it finds where the head is. The print bed shops also move back abs the head should also move up and down and then go into position.
As for the feeding noise, that's not normal. Does it do that whole moving the head around like it's printing?
When you loaded the filament, did you see it coming out of the nozzle at that time?
What material are you using?
I am having the same problem as the writer above. Yes, the print head does tgo all the way to the right, bu8t nit sticks there and the noise it makes sounds like gears grinding and the head just sits there.
I am the only owner of a 3D printer in this town and there are literally NO repair people that can be found anywhere near here. Have you found an answer to this problem yet? If not, I can send a video if that will help you diagnose the problem. @@3dpprofessor
I've had the opposite problem, I have the adventurer 3 pro with the nonremovable, self levelling plate, and I just can't remove prints from it. All that seems to really work is just using the preheat setting to heat up the print and scraping it off slowly. It's next to impossible to remove a print any other way. This is really inconvenient because I often find myself bending, warping, or damaging thinner, flatter prints. Do you have any advice? I've also had issues with not being able to remove supports for the life of me, and additionally some (tree type) supports will just up and break at the base, turning my print into spaghetti. Is there any common denominator between all of these problems?
My advice for the sticking is to put a little gluestick on the build plate. It acts as an interface layer, sticking to the print, but releasing it when you're done. YOu only need to apply it once in a long while.
As for supports, my advice is only print things that don't require supports. I recommend printablok!
But, yeah, supports suck. You can play with settings so that they have a larger gap between them at the part or are made thinner so they break away. But then the support part looks garbage. Break away supports are a bandaid solution, IMHO.
Hi! I also have the pro and I had this problem and I changed one thing and it fixed it.
The problem was that I was calibrating the print head too tight to the bed. I did the calibration with a piece of paper. Putting the paper in, adjusting the print height until it JUSSSST barely held down the paper.
It was hard work to scrape off my models.
But then I read that if I went ONE TINY AMOUNT up from that, so I could juuuust barely MOVE the paper, and calibrated there.
So I did that, and now everything stays solid on the bed while printing, but then pops off easily with a scraper.
This explains why i cant put my usb in. Also do you know how i can go about using the whole build plate rather than just the center? I'm using flashprint MP rather than cura because i cant change my file to a .g on it. I go to change my dimensions but when i change one it auto updates the other ones i cant manually change just one. Any advice?
I recommend using flashforge flashprint.
I would assume that Makerbot is not producing these machines themselves but rather use the factory lines of Flashforge and just replace the covers with Makerbot branded ones. I see that with Bresser (a German company which is selling their machines in Germany ALDIs for the next two weeks for 400 EUR) - if you look at their handbook you will see that they refer to the Flashforge Cloud as the Cloud plattform - thus very likely simply a rebranded Flashforge Adventurer 3 ... similarly to the Flashforge Dreamer which was sold as Dremel Idea Builder back in 2016.
Can you share PLA / ABS settings ? I`ve tweaked but not perfect yet
Honestly, i jsut use flashprint defaults.
I have the cooling fan at the setting "Turn while printing Raft Top", (this becuse is better for bed adhesion, I also set the bed temperature to 60), fan starts right there but suddenly it shuts down during the whole printing, and it turns again just when the printing ended, what can I do?
Best thing to do is contact support.
Does the print work otherwise? It's just the fan not behaving as you expect it should?
did replacing the nozzle solve the stepper motor skipping issue? I was going to try replacing the feed gear with a 42 tooth brass one based on another video that I saw. but if the nozzle replacement fixes it I will skip that fix and go right to buying the nozzle.
If your nozzle is deformed or permanently clogged, replacing the nozzle does fix the stepper motor skipping issue. It's an easy way to start.
How do you remove the nozzle???
Im convinced we have different models of the same printer. I got the flashforge from their official site, and ive never had any issue with the print not sticking, or issues with the usb or heat creep. The only issue ive had is only from a specific filament that wasn't extruding properly. Other than that my experience has been flawless
I think he had the settings wrong. When I had mine set to automatic between camera and USB 50/50 it wouldn't read the USB so I changed the settings manually to USB and I have no issue. I had issues in the beginning not getting anything to stick but I turned up the bed temperature to I think 62 C? And it works fine. I run the nozzle at 206 c
Your settings are for PLA?? I’ve been having this issue too and I did calibration several times and nothing fix this issue of not sticking. The other issue I have is that the nozzle extrudes material before the first layer of the print and drags it with it. Any advice?? Thanks!!
@@TheMariela0503 I have that happen with almost all my prints. The best solution is having the print do that thing where it does a line near the print base, or a raft where the piece will end up fusing into it. Something else I sometimes do is just grab the little piece of plastic and slowly pull it out the extruder until it hits the build plate
@@brandonmatuschka4841 Thanks a lot!! I’m gonna heat up the bed temperature to 60 instead of 50. And I’m gonna keep printing with a raft or a brim. Do these printers can use a Skirt and a raft at the same time??
@@TheMariela0503 I've never used a skirt but I always print with the raft unless I need the bottom of a print to be perfectly smooth, then I just use the brim
I am brand new to 3d printers and just got a flashforge 3 lite from a local school. They said it was broken and were throwing it away. I turned it on and and the screen is frozen with a loading pop-up on it. Any suggestions.
Contact flashforge support. That's what the school should have done, but their loss is your gain. I'm sure for a few replacement parts you can have an awesome machine.
I recently got my adventure 3 lite and tested a few prints with the filament it came with. I'm guessing it was PLA. Well I bought some polymaker ABS and switched to the 0.4 265 nozzle and I can't print anything at all. I can't figure it out it comes out and just winds up. Doesn't stick at all either
Have you contacted Flashforge support?
Hi, Just subscribed! I’m fairly new to 3D’s but have the same unit and have designed several models thus far. I’m slicing with a Flash Print. I’m having a problem printing the bottom wall layers of a large rectangular box. The layers sag and end up looking sloppy. Once the walls are about a 1/4” high, they print much better. Is this a slicer setting or bed temperature issue? Any help is appreciated!
How do wall that are against the build plate sag?
@@3dpprofessor Hi, Maybe sag is the wrong term. I’m referring to the vertical walls, not the “floor” of the box that sits directly on the build plate. Is there anyway I can send you a picture?
@@ruralsteep my discord is linked in the description. I have a #troubleshooting channel where lots of awesome people are waiting to help you out.
Http://discord.3dpprofessor.com
Thanks but the link isn’t working. It’s saying the link is invalid or expired.
Odd. It's working for me. Try this one: discord.com/invite/rpwXqE5
I always pictured Makerbot more as the Walking Dead than Weekend at Bernie's. 😀
I have a voxel that i've had all sorts of issues with, but now i know about the nozzle thing and the z problem...However my biggest issue is the touch screens lack of response and "loose"? feeling like it could be pushed in at some point...It's almost like flashforge said yeah we will rebadge the rejects from qc.
I purchased the Voxel and hacked the adventurer firmware on it now have 9point bed level and a bunch of new options and using polar cloud to print wireless haven't had a problem with it yet. Point bought it to print my voron parts and my ratrig vcast parts then it's probably going back but I'm starting to like it and might keep it.
I need help, i wanted to 3d print a plane and the wings won't print straight and the filament will melt instead of sticking so the wings will look like they were chewed up by a dog
Interesting. Probably best to jump on my discord so you can post pictures. That would help the most. And others in my community can help. discord.gg/rpwXqE5
Mine works great. Just can’t figure out the usb problem. You said take an old formatted Fat USB and upload new firmware to make the printer able to read newer USBs? Where can I find this original Fat USB?! I can’t seem to find one anywhere. Can you send a link or something please? Thank you!
That's only with the old Monoprice Voxel re-brand. If you have an official Flashforge, they've got it updated, and if you can connect it to wifi it will stay updated.
Have you got a Voxel?
Can you run this in an uninsulated garage, or must it operate at room temperature?
They won't work in arctic conditions, but the enclosure keeps them working in slightly more adverse conditions than most open frame 3D printers.
A fair number of people reported a problem with the Adventure 3 when using non-Flashforge brand filament - clicking coming from the feed mechanism and a failure to feed reliably. Any idea about what was done to fix this? It may have only been some machines that had the problem (like the USB issue or the thermal runaway issue).
That was heat creep problem I was talking about. The new nozzles fix that.
I can testify no it has not
my heated bed quit working is there a fuse or somethign that controls it? Checked the ribbon its still connected.
Maybe. Have you contacted FlashForge support? They're great.
@@3dpprofessor I figured it out. The ribbon cable keeps coming out...lol.
The DRM nozzle same as the Gtech Giant Arm D200. The Giantarm was awful with PLA! Also isn't the board an Arduino Mega 2560 if I remember correctly. I had a CTC Clone way back in 2014 and used to flash Makerbot Firmware to make it a bloody good machine lol
Please help! I have printed many time successfully but now i start to get this issue frequently - I keep getting this error in flashforge: something went wrong during sending printing file. The suggestions online do not seem to work, please help.
First of all, did you contact Flashforge support? Secondly, did you update to the latest version of flashprint and did you update your firmware? The new firmware and the new software need to be updated together.
I clean my plate with a quick spray of iso and a wipe with a paper towel between prints - and I NEVER have adhesion problems. I honestly cringe at the idea of mucking up a plate with glue-stick ..... what a mess! Using proper print speeds and plate temperatures makes adhesion a non-issue on this machine anyway.
Also - file systems are not hardware dependant. You can format any storage medium to FAT / exFAT/ NTFS etc and back again with little-to-no effort. You do not require "old hardware".
I just got one myself and noticed issues at times with ABS. Can you go over the settings you have for PLA and ABS?
I've had mine for a month and it has started to only print at first layer height for the whole print. I have no idea why. It tries to do the whole print, not stopping at only first layer, but the Z axis doesn't want to keep climbing up as needed. It isn't broken or locked in place as the z axis moves fine while not printing.
Have you contacted flashforge support? They're excellent.
Anyone know how to fix a really sticky surface of the printer and it won’t let me take the supports off my builds any suggestions?
Turns out, the best thing you can do for a surface that won't release is to add a sticking agent like a thin layer of glue stick or hairspray. It's not just good for stick, but release.
Good luck.
I recently did the firmware update for my adventurer 3 and now there is a HUGE layer shift after the first couple layers. Support has been no help in getting it back to the older firmware version. HELP PLEASE!
Huge layer shift on the first couple of layers means it prints a few layers and then shifts? In the X or in the Y?
And I assume you did run the 9 point bed level calibration?
And have you tried different STLs?
@@3dpprofessor Yes, huge shift after calibration but seems to only be on the Y. I have tried 7 different files that worked before I did a firmware update. I've tried to reset to factory settings and it doesn't take the firmware update off. I've troubleshooted with the information from the company (16GB drive formatted to FAT32 with the older firmware version) and it doesn't work.
@@3dpprofessor Also, I attempted 3 prints with the same file and noticed the shift happened in 3 different spots each time. Sometimes it would finish a layer and shift and sometimes mid layer but never the same spot.
@@3dpprofessor Did you ever get it fixed, I have the same issue?
All I saw to fix mine was to replace the nozzle and I don't know if that will do it my printer is going to slow and the bed is unlevel since I had a clog when I ran out of filament in a spool
Make sure you're on the latest firmware so you can compensate for the unlevel bed.
Removing the nozzle (while hot) can help you clear out the clog since it will pull the filament in the tube out.
Good luck.
when i put usb in it says file format error when trying to print something?
Did you upgrade flashforge to 5, but not upgrade the firmware on your printer?
Also, have you contacted flashforge support?
Can I direct the nozzle to make a stronger prototype? It stops laying bead, making weak spots, printing segments, instead of continuous lay.
Not sure what you mean here.
Are you just wanting to increase the flowrate so that it puts out more plastic? If so, yeah, you can do that.
Like printing a pair of glasses, by printing the middle first, then one loop, then the other loop.@@3dpprofessor
@@Skptic1958 that's an interesting proposition.
I don't know of any slicer that gives users that sort of control.
I used the FFA3 for two years until it failed. Despite my best efforts, I can't seem to fix it. The layer shift that happens makes it impossible use. I've ordered the new MK4 Prusa instead. I too had issues regarding bed adhesion.
2 years is not a bad run for $400 3D printer.
I was having similar layer shifts on one of my printers. On the Y-Axis. Tried looking at the Y which involved literally tearing the thing to it's bones so I could see the problem... and it stopped happening. Put it back together and its' been running fine ever since. Weird and furstrating.
6:12 which neck of plastic do you mean? That white thingy in the middle?
Yes.
Does this printer have auto-leveling?
No. The bed is fixed, and you have to level it with the menu, but it now has 9 point leveling, so even if your bed is off from the factory, which it usually isn't, it works pretty good.
My printer will not let me print multiple parts on the bed. I make sure the parts are not outside the print window. Can you help?
Mine does it fine. In fact I'm printing multiple parts on my A3 right now. So... can not reproduce? Need more details.
Maybe if you jump on my discord where you can upload screenshots or project files so I can try it out with whatever you're trying to do.
can you show how to fiz the stream file not sending
Have you contacted FlashForge support?
Also, have you updated both the slicer and the firmware?
For a year, we've had the Adventurer 3 working great. All of a sudden, we've had a blank, unresponsive touch screen. Without the touchscreen, we cannot use it. Any suggestions with this? I've tried to use a USB to import a new version of firmware, but maybe we need just the FAT usb? Let me know your thoughts. We tried to send it for repairs. The tech replaced the motherboard. He was able to turn it on successfully at his shop, but as soon as we brought it home, blank screen!
Have you contacted flashforge support?
Yes, and we were informed to replace the motherboard, and we did
@@fuzereformed6340 And that didn't fix it? What did they suggest next?
I can say that I've never run into this problem in the years that I've been using a half a dozen of these machines, so I'm at a loss. But I hope they can help you.
My vent stopped working after I am trying to change the nozzle is that normal?
What vent?
Changing the nozzle is normal. They make it super easy to do.
Just "FAT" is probably FAT16. It's *not* tied to a flash disk hardware, it's just a filesystem, so if you don't have an old flash thumb, see if you can get anyone with the old stick create an image which you can then load into your new stick (google for: USB stick image software). Use the same software to create a backup first, so you can restore your thumb after the firmware update procedure.
Yup. Tried that. Didn't work. Don't know what it is about the old hardware, but it is the only thing that worked.
@@3dpprofessor When it doesn't work, it's usually specific settings of the FAT filesystem (Atari vs DOS, fat media type, sectors per cluster, etc.) or the partition table (CHS values, first partition start sector and its alignment, etc.), so formatting a new drive is not the same as imaging an old one. But if even that didn't work, then it is probably an USB protocol problem (many possibilities there) and you're right that only old hardware will work. :(
It now has 9 point mesh bed levelling
I recently got this machine and I was able to print 4 successful prints with 0 issues. I recently have been having major problems. 1 when I start a print it says “filament error” and stops the machine while there is nothing wrong with the filament or any type of clog as the print is coming out perfect. And 2 the printer will print smoothly for literally about half the build and then it will stop extruding. So as you can imagine I need help please!
Have you contacted FlashForge support?
Try removing your hot end and putting it back in. Maybe even clean the connections with. Swap and rubbing alcohol. Make sure its in all the way. When I first got this printer, I thought my nozzle was all the way in when it actually wasn't so it was causing a loose connection and every now and again my printer would stop and tell me there was an error.
Can't get my flash forge 3 to print without fails for anything larger than a highlighter cap.
How does it fail?
He says that it's hard for the print to stick to the build plate, even though I have one that won't let go without literally ripping the build plate apart.
Intersing. Yeah, I have to opposite problem. Then again, I really don't like my level being too close. I prefer a first layer that's just [chef's kiss] touching the build plate only as much as necessary.
keep having filament error... what can I do?
Usually the filametn error means the filament detector isn't sensing any filament. If there's filament in it, then that may mean the sensor is broken and your best bet is to turn off filament sensing in the menu. It means you lose the filament runout sensor, but at least you're printing again.
@@3dpprofessor Not sure with the latest update that feature is still in there I'll contact their support. I'll let you know. Thanks, Doc 🥕
Rather than “worth” - I think the better word is cost. It definitely costs 2x but unlikely worth 2x. I hope you get one and can do a head to head.
That's a difficult thing to qualify. Because it's more than just a box of parts. Its service. It's software. It's integration with your workflow. Not to mention the specific parts makes a big difference. For example, a CR10 and Tevo Tarantula have similar capabilities on paper, but I would not call their experience the same.
Flash forge is private labeling there adventure 3 for makerbot ..they also build the dremel fdm printers too
clean the print deck with IPA between each print and no need for the glue
I got the adventurer 3 and I must say that i love it. But i am having a problem where it makes the build plate move which ruins my builds, so if anybody knows any fixes hit me up :).
Sounds like you didn't clip it on properly. But if it is clipped and still slips, you need to make it more sticky. Putting hairspray on the back could help.
But with Flashforge, contact their support. They're great!
I just got my adventurer 3 and it has several issues. The test print was perfectly fine, but the software is weird. First, it refuses to connect to my wifi. I have tried several times typing in the password, restarted the machine, and it didn't work. Second, it refuses to read my USB sticks. I have tried several different formats of file (STL and OBJ) and they all failed to appear on the screen. Now I am genuinely confused and don't know how to import my file from elsewhere and print.
You have to convert .stl files to .g files for the USB drive issue. Just change the extension to .g
@@pizzatime6349 I can't export my file into .gx or .g format on my Fusion 360. Are there any other ways to convert the format?
Use the slicer. Flashprint. You might want to watch my 3dprinting 101 video series.
@@3dpprofessor I've figured it out already but thank you anyways!
Agree with it all but today switched it on and black screen. No song.
Oh no. Did you contact their support?
I don't know what I'm doing wrong, but al my prints fail.
Sometimes there is no filament coming out in the beginning. Sometimes it starts very hopeful and then al off a Sutton it's printing in mid air without any filament coming out. I'm at the point of giving up and find myself a different hobby. In the beginning everything looked very hopeful, but now it's only frustrating to keep on trying. Can anyone help me with possible changes?
Have you contacted flashforge support?
@@3dpprofessor no i didn't, first i wil trie to unscrew the wheels that feed the fillament to the nozzle. Maybe there is something wrong there.
how can I fix the error filament?
Have you contacted flashforge support and let them know you're having a problem?
@@3dpprofessor not yet if I disable the decetor of filament works I think is that :/
@@PaburoVIII I'm afraid that is likely to be the end point of this. I have a few where over just had to turn that feature off. Which is a shame.
@@3dpprofessor yeah do you known how to change that part I have seen in the store sell it but I dont have idea how to install it
@@PaburoVIII for that, FlashForge I'm pretty sure has a guide.
I pulled the 2 nozzles apart. If you want to see the differences let me know.
Very much. You can jump on my discord (link in description) or share those on Twitter and tag me.
@@3dpprofessor I messaged you on Facebook.
I'm facing the issue is when I'm on the printer Automatically Nozzle is heated & coming smoke & smell
I actually saw that on one and I don't remember how I fixed it. I don't remember if it was a firmware issue or a short in the hot end and I needed to replace the whole hot end assembly.
Contact Flashforge support and see what they tell you to do.
I dared try change my nozzle and ever since I switched back (yes changed settings back etc) and now nothing but headache.
Tried calibrating multiple times and every time there's another issue. When it works its great, but as soon as anything goes wrong
its at least a week of troubleshooting and failures.
Currently, after finally getting the nozzle working, it's scraping the plate (I've tried a big gap, little gap, seems irrelevant) even though it all sat well
through calibration.
Really wish I'd saved a little more n sprung for something with perhaps auto-calibration and the like...
It's so hard to find info that doesn't devolve into technical language with no explanations for the layman OR is something like that that simply goes on
about the product, company and doesn't really help fix anything.
Have you contacted Flashforge support? They're excellent.
@@3dpprofessor I did but perhaps I had gotten the wrong number off the wrong site- disconnected every time I tried
I could have my 3d printer unplugged for days & weeks but whenever I turn it on it’s always stuck on 300 degrees and never goes down.
Sounds like the nozzle is loose. If not, have you tried replacing it?
I have this same problem but instead of the nozzle, the build plate is stuck on 300°
My printer has the same problem, did you manage to solve it?
Hello, I see you know a lot about 3D printers and a lot about Flashforge Adventurer 3. Because of your videos I decided to buy exactly this 3D printer, but I`m facing an issue with it and using ABS filament. The printer starts to do knocking noise coming from the filament loading mechanism, it`s like the gears there are skipping filament. There is no tension to pull the filament. Can you advise me please? Thanks you in advance!
Sounds like you haven't got the temperature hot enough. If you sliced it with ABS settings, try turning up the temp another 10C.
@@3dpprofessor looks like FlashPrint profile for ABS is 230degrees which is not hot enough. Thank you, 240degrees solved my issue, now the next one is the printed model is not sticking properly to the bed. I’ve cleaned the bed with isopropyl alcohol and then I applied some dry glue as you mentioned in some of your videos. It sticks better, but still not perfect. I’ll try another glue. Thanks for your tips and help.
@@user-bh7bk2ok7d there is a repositionable spray on craft glue. Maybe give that a try.
Looks like a Ronco Showtime Rotisserie to me.
There we are! Makerbot is ripping off Ronco!
Can this print PC
I don't think so. It doesn't quite get hot enough.
Here in Jan 2023 . Thanks for USb drive tip. I will try a way to do what you say. Unfortunately don't think I have old FAT formatted USB though. Am I going to have to go on ebay looking for old SD drives and a USB adaptor I wonder. Looks liek I won't be printing today anyhow.
I just keep thinking - how the *hell* is this even a thing in 2023? having to update firmware by scratching round for ancient tec. Jjust to to make it produce anything simple is very first thing you have to do is to lookup all this. Why are 3d printers still nowhere near consumer items. Imagine you had to do this with TVs, microwaves you brought?
I love your videos here. The one thing that gives me huge pause is the idea of having to use glue all the time to make things stick. And yes, "Indian Giver" is racist. I'll explain later.
Does someone have the latest firmware ?
Search Google for "Voxel users: Here's how to upgraded to latest Adventurer3 firmware" and follow those instructions. There's a google drive archive of all the firmwares there.
@@3dpprofessor Thanks. I Got it updated and then forced it to update to the latest Adventurer 3 pro by editing the checks in the first few lines of .sh file. Now the camera and LAN connectivity are working again.
I have nothing but problems with mine. new out of the box and it wouldnt print properly. Replaced and have the same issue. They are junk.
Did you contact flashforge support?
@@3dpprofessor they were both brand new in box. I shouldnt have to trouble shoot a brand new item. Let alone 2 of them
@@staticman1263 yes, I agree with you. But did you contact support?
Shay kind of problems were you encountering.
@@3dpprofessor back in store. Again. Even they cant fix it.
@@staticman1263 You can buy these in a store? Where?
Problem with sticking? Well then you need to use 3dlac, that stuff sticks, and sticks hard!
I really enjoy your content but in this video you don't really transport well why you like this printer that much. Issues with the hotend (although fixed by now) and a bed that is hard to level does not sound like I wanted to get into this. Especially since those are problems for which other manufacturers already have easy solutions. Seems like there is something I am missing?
Greetings from locked down Germany.
True. But I did cover that in the video linked in the cards, and I didn't want to repeat myself. Though I probably should.
@@3dpprofessor Thanks, I'll check it out!
It's great until something breaks
What broke on yours? Were you able to get it fixed?
I find Flashforge support is excellent.
I cant use usb or print anything at all
Do you have a Voxel or Proper Flashforge Adventurer 3? Have you reached out to their suppor?
"... however"
Maker-bot stopped making their own printers, and so Flashforge made them for them.
So basically you just buy a Flashforge with a Makerbot logo.
They justify this because of their software and support.
My experience with Makerbot support, is that there support is limited to selling overpriced replacement parts.
And there software is cloud based, which is very dangerous because when makerbot is going to pull the plug out there shitty printers there is a high change the software will die with it.
@Danger Doag It is a trap. With lots of small fine print.
No no fixing. Spent 5 hours doing what I could have done on the creality slicer for an ender 3 in 5 minutes. Flash forge is garbage
Is it garbage, or are you just not use to it? I find with most new slicers that once I get used to it I'm as good with it as with anything else.
What were you trying to do that you couldn't do in Flashprint?
800 dollar then i buy a prusa mk3s
I absolutely would not recommend a kit you have to build and a bare marlin interface for a teacher who might not even be sure they want a 3d printer. A Prusa might be right for you, and Prusas are solid machines. But going forward 3d printers are going to need a lot more polish to reach a new audience as well ads the reliability of a Prusa. And Stratasys are also known for that level of engineering, but at a premium price.
@@3dpprofessor Prusa iis probably the best you can get, just wait a year or some months until all the bugs are ironed out of the mini.
It never sticks. So annoying
Did you run the bed calibration?
What does he actually want to convey.... Lol
never in my lifetime will i get another makerbot ! pile of shit 3500 for a machine and 200 per extruder robbing buggers. was flash forge not from the origional designers of makerbot when they all left and formed there own company
That's okay. Makerbot isn't selling to you any more.
Also 8:09
@@3dpprofessor not selling think u will find the public stoped purchaseing them due to the crap they were pushing out like the smart extruder pmsl nowt smart about it and needed changeing around every kg of filament at £200 a go was pathetic