If you ever remove the drain plug first and then realize you cannot get the fill plug out to replace the oil, there is an easy fix: flip the car upside down and fill it.
I'm the same lol I just did my transfer case and rear diff oil change yesterday. But man it's tight to get a mini bottle up there with a tube. I had to finish the 1,6 litre fill with a 60ml syringe 💉 lol
I live in Michigan, and all my vehicles have been purchased used. The only undercarriage I've seen is a rusty, corroded one. That things looks amazing!
Western US vehicles look much nicer underneath, because they aren't in the "salt belt" where winter roads are smothered in salt. sand is usually used on roads out west, unless freezing temperatures absolutely need it. Even then, we don't use as much, and only as necessary. Think TX, NM, AZ, UT, NV, and CA. These states will usually have little to no rust, even decades later. (I have a CA/NV only Silverado, and a former Ohio life (now CA/NV) Suburban (both '97). I've seen the difference. The CA truck is effortless to unbolt parts, meanwhile the OH Suburban needs a good heavy pre-soak of penetrating oil, such as PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or similar, and care, to take parts off. Sometimes, new hardware is needed to replace the rusty stuff.)
That's the cleanest 24 year old truck frame I have ever seen. The underside of my 22 year old Dodge hasn't looked that good for the last 15 years. Thanks for sharing.
Western US vehicles look much nicer underneath, because they aren't in the "salt belt" where winter roads are smothered in salt. sand is usually used on roads out west, unless freezing temperatures absolutely need it. Even then, we don't use as much, and only as necessary. Think TX, NM, AZ, UT, NV, and CA. These states will usually have little to no rust, even decades later. (I have a CA/NV only Silverado, and a former Ohio life (now CA/NV) Suburban (both '97). I've seen the difference. The CA truck is effortless to unbolt parts, meanwhile the OH Suburban needs a good heavy pre-soak of penetrating oil, such as PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or similar, and care, to take parts off. Sometimes, new hardware is needed to replace the rusty stuff.) Both, 1Road and I are in different parts of CA. It is not uncommon to see any vehicle that clean, underneath, unless it came from a "back east" state.
Short, to the point, a little humour, good camera work, and an impossibly clean(!) undercarriage to allow for a nice view of what's actually going on underneath.
The color of the fluid is not an indication of quality. I'm a transmission and driveline tech for Chevy, GM coats the internal components of the transmission and transfer cases with an anti-rust coating to protect it from rust while they sit on the shelf waiting to get put into units and it changes the color of the fluid. It can be a dark red or even brown and still function as intended. I always tell people around 80k is a good time to change it, but not because the fluid is dark, its more because the fluid gets thin, and pumps are less efficient with thinner fluid.
i have a question, Mr. tech guy. My 98 k1500 got a transmission fluid change about 5 years ago(maybe 20k miles ago) , but i don't know what fluid they used and its been getting pretty low. Would we assume that they used Dexron VI, and i could add any dexron VI? And i see synthetic as an option, is there non-synthetic dexron VI? Is is possible something other than dexron VI was used and would not be compatible with me adding synthetic dexron VI? i've just been wondering about what i should add to top it off. I hate the idea of transmission problems lol
@@daftnord4957 depends where you went. Some small shops with use “all purpose” atf that’s supposed to work with every model trans. Which is not true for newer cars. If it’s getting low there is a leak, the fluid doesn’t evaporate lol. You can add dex 6, as long as it is dex 6 not dex merc, or any aftermarket “use in any trans” junk.
1 Road I’ve got my dads old 04 avalanche from Florida ( I actually did the nimovat to bistein Job a few weeks before you posted) It pains me every time I drove it in the snow and salt.
A good video Jimmy, straight to the point, not a whole lot of meandering. But something you should always, do, when you take something off like the skid plate, take a few minutes to clean it well and hit it with a coat of spray paint to prevent rust. This little bit of maintenance will give you a lot more life.
Goldplug makes some very nice magnetic drain plugs for nearly every application. Even if they don't have a vehicle specific plug, if you know the thread pitch, depth and diameter of bolt you can find one. They are very strong magnets and are probably better to be installed before initial break in to capture any shavings.
All modern car companies call their transfer case fluid "lifetime". Always do at least every 50k! Lifetime just means it will wear out and break if you wait too long! Don't fall for it...do it and sooner!!
Knowing factory fluids like I do, this should have been changed the day the original buyer bought it. When I purchased my 2019 Ranger, within the first 2 days I had the motor oil, both diffs, transfer case, antifreeze, brake fluid all switched.
Just replaced my transfer case fluid on my Nissan Xterra for the first time. Vehicle is 18 years old with 220k miles on it. I use the 4WD maybe two or three times per year. Old fluid was NASTY black and the magnet had an inch of fine metal debris stuck to it. Also, capacity was 2.5 quarts but I only got 1 quart out of there ( rear seal leak) Entire job only took maybe 30 minutes and the fluid isn't expensive. I'm not sure why I've been too lazy to do it until now.
@@1RoadGarage it's been a while since I did it. I think a slight gray, not as bad as I thought. My other truck with about the same miles had a little more gray color.
Great content I have a truck that needs this. One side note I imagine you took it off the jackstands prior to adding that final quart so the level will be right. If you didn't at least you are AWARE that either less or more fluid went in than if level. Hopefully more.
I am surprised the drain plug wasn't magnetized. The fluid really didn't look that bad. Probably just driven short distances or the previous owner changed it.
@@dyoel182 - Ever smell 140w gear oil? That's the worst oil smell I ever had experienced. It was bad enough that the smell stays in your nose for a short time after you finished smelling it.
Hey Jimmy my grandpa accidentally added a quart of 5w30 engine oil into his 06 ford ranger 4x4 transmission fluid and the truck ran fine for awhile, now it won't run anymore, when you put it in drive the engine revs but no movement. Any ideas how to fix it
realistically your transfercase fluid while dirty still had a lot of film strenght. Transfer cases typically spin way slow and have less mechanical wear than differentials and transmissions. You probably could easily get away with 100k on transfercase fluid and not have that much mechanical wear to the gears. Rear truck differentials on the other hard will definitely start showing wear after 30k-50k. Now is that wear relevant to the destruction of the diff - that depends on engineering.
I have a question....if moving my automatic SUV gears from park to drive makes a bit of a 'clunk', could that be a sign that the transfer case fluid should be changed?
That’s strange that in just a few years GM changed to the Blue Smurf fluid for the transfer cases my 01 Yukon had the wrong stuff in it when I purchased it fortunately I changed it as soon as I purchased it to the Delco blue stuff been working great ever since 40000 + miles
Always loosen the drain plug first. The gears in the t case always move when the vehicle is moving even if it’s in 2wd. This way like the vid said you don’t fry the case due to no fluid.
.info is easy obtainable...80-90gear oil.run synthetic its worth the few extra bucks...I change mine out every 35-40,000 miles..cheap insurance if u plan on keeping it for a long time...(04 crew 170,000 going strong)
As far as I know, applying thread lock to oily threads is a total waste of time, some thread locks have tolerance to a small amount of oil contamination, but it’s not not much.
That struck me kind of odd. The rear differential uses gear oil, yet the transfer case uses transmission fluid. Any reason why it's not using gear oil?
Not really that odd, although not as common anymore as it used to be. Just like some cars use power steering fluid for the power steering where-as other vehicles use ATF in the power steering.
If it is calling for transmission fluid, there must be clutches in there. I have heard that some can just take gear oil. The spec of which I would look into more closely to make sure it does not need some sort of additive (some already have it in them). My mother has a 2017 Nissan Rogue Sport and I am looking into what to use when I do that first change some day. It is not uncommon for people to drain black nasty horrible smelling oil from those and differentials even with fairly low mileage. I have never drained a differential before but some people say that the oil smells terrible after being in there so long. When it is new it is not the most pleasant scent either.
That's actually true. l just got done draining and refilling the rear differential of 2 of my cars today, both of them take GL-5 75W-90. The new gear oil in the bottle stinks but no big deal, you just are aware that it's not a pleasant smell.... BUT... the old fluid l drained out... that was stench was on a whole different level... it's the type of smell that just a slight wiff of it at you instincts tell you to not breath it on a borderline panic instinctual panic level. The few wiffs l go while l was under the car caused me to get up and walk far enough away to get some fresh air because it even made me light headed, so it's a bit more than just an unpleasant smell. That being said, the old fluid actually looked surprisingly good, as if it were brand new actually and even the viscosity was still perfect. That fluid had 73,000 miles on it. l replaced it with SuperTech Full Synthetic GL-5 (made by Castrol) which is also what the transfer case calls for. My manual trans takes GL-4 gear oil. The only thing in that particular vehicle of mine that calls for ATF is the power steering
Yeah you are right, it's better to let case drain and completely stop dripping first, then use a dry cloth to wipe down the hole threads really well, and then get a clean cloth, wet a small area of the cloth with pure isopropyl alcohol and also wipe the plug with the same alcohol, then apply the sealant/gasket maker to the threads, then insert and tighten the plug. One thing to keep in mind is that for diffs and t-cases that take gear oil it's better to use RTV-gasket maker which is specifically made to resist breakdown from gear oil and heat.
This can be a sign of a Seal failure between the transmission and Transfer case, i've heard about it before when the seal fails it can cause fluid from the trans it leak into the transfer case leading to fluid to come out when you pull the fill plug, 1A auto also mentions this in one of the videos they put up, cant remember which one though, goodluck.
Some people prefer to use teflon tape. For diff plugs and t-case plugs l use RTV sealant/gasket maker but that's because both my diff and t-case take GL-5 gear oil and the RTV-Sealant/gasket maker is specifically designed to be resistant to gear oil. For the engine oil drain plug l've never bothered using any sealer, just the crush washer which l replace every 3 to 4 oil changes and never had any leaks. Perhaps that owner was using the teflon tape due to a slow leak from the drain plug.
Thins out as it gets old which can stress the pump, reduce cooling, which can then deplete additives in fluid and result to acidic conditions which can then damage metal components of T-case and seals.
Damn, I have a 2007 Lincoln Navigator 4x4 with 144,000 miles on it and these last 2 videos are making me cringe knowing I have to change my differential fluid and transfer case fluid.
If you ever remove the drain plug first and then realize you cannot get the fill plug out to replace the oil, there is an easy fix: flip the car upside down and fill it.
Hahaha
😂🤣😂🤣 exactly my thoughts!
Lmaoo you got me
Dad, is that you?
This is the way...😂
Jimmy is the type of guy that goes around the house looking to fix things that aren't broken. Lol
I love that.
Haha, you know it!! Really it's all an excuse to buy more tools... 🤣
I'm the same lol I just did my transfer case and rear diff oil change yesterday. But man it's tight to get a mini bottle up there with a tube. I had to finish the 1,6 litre fill with a 60ml syringe 💉 lol
im just amazed by how clean everything is on a vehicle that old
I live in Michigan, and all my vehicles have been purchased used. The only undercarriage I've seen is a rusty, corroded one. That things looks amazing!
Western US vehicles look much nicer underneath, because they aren't in the "salt belt" where winter roads are smothered in salt. sand is usually used on roads out west, unless freezing temperatures absolutely need it. Even then, we don't use as much, and only as necessary. Think TX, NM, AZ, UT, NV, and CA. These states will usually have little to no rust, even decades later. (I have a CA/NV only Silverado, and a former Ohio life (now CA/NV) Suburban (both '97). I've seen the difference. The CA truck is effortless to unbolt parts, meanwhile the OH Suburban needs a good heavy pre-soak of penetrating oil, such as PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or similar, and care, to take parts off. Sometimes, new hardware is needed to replace the rusty stuff.)
That's the cleanest 24 year old truck frame I have ever seen. The underside of my 22 year old Dodge hasn't looked that good for the last 15 years. Thanks for sharing.
Western US vehicles look much nicer underneath, because they aren't in the "salt belt" where winter roads are smothered in salt. sand is usually used on roads out west, unless freezing temperatures absolutely need it. Even then, we don't use as much, and only as necessary. Think TX, NM, AZ, UT, NV, and CA. These states will usually have little to no rust, even decades later. (I have a CA/NV only Silverado, and a former Ohio life (now CA/NV) Suburban (both '97). I've seen the difference. The CA truck is effortless to unbolt parts, meanwhile the OH Suburban needs a good heavy pre-soak of penetrating oil, such as PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or similar, and care, to take parts off. Sometimes, new hardware is needed to replace the rusty stuff.)
Both, 1Road and I are in different parts of CA. It is not uncommon to see any vehicle that clean, underneath, unless it came from a "back east" state.
Good job Jimmy. Finally a video that is straight to the point with not too much extra blabber.
Hey, I've got a few like that... 😉
Short, to the point, a little humour, good camera work, and an impossibly clean(!) undercarriage to allow for a nice view of what's actually going on underneath.
The color of the fluid is not an indication of quality. I'm a transmission and driveline tech for Chevy, GM coats the internal components of the transmission and transfer cases with an anti-rust coating to protect it from rust while they sit on the shelf waiting to get put into units and it changes the color of the fluid. It can be a dark red or even brown and still function as intended.
I always tell people around 80k is a good time to change it, but not because the fluid is dark, its more because the fluid gets thin, and pumps are less efficient with thinner fluid.
@Furqan pretty sure you will be fine.
i have a question, Mr. tech guy. My 98 k1500 got a transmission fluid change about 5 years ago(maybe 20k miles ago) , but i don't know what fluid they used and its been getting pretty low. Would we assume that they used Dexron VI, and i could add any dexron VI? And i see synthetic as an option, is there non-synthetic dexron VI? Is is possible something other than dexron VI was used and would not be compatible with me adding synthetic dexron VI? i've just been wondering about what i should add to top it off. I hate the idea of transmission problems lol
@@daftnord4957 depends where you went. Some small shops with use “all purpose” atf that’s supposed to work with every model trans. Which is not true for newer cars. If it’s getting low there is a leak, the fluid doesn’t evaporate lol. You can add dex 6, as long as it is dex 6 not dex merc, or any aftermarket “use in any trans” junk.
I am envious of how clean cars are in your area. All of the 95 suburban are rusted and gone here in Wisconsin.
Man, I know. I watch a few TH-camrs from your neck of the woods and their trucks are rotted out. I don't know if I could handle that...
1 Road I’ve got my dads old 04 avalanche from Florida ( I actually did the nimovat to bistein Job a few weeks before you posted) It pains me every time I drove it in the snow and salt.
Wow , my here in California was built in Wisconsin I think
A good video Jimmy, straight to the point, not a whole lot of meandering.
But something you should always, do, when you take something off like the skid plate, take a few minutes to clean it well and hit it with a coat of spray paint to prevent rust.
This little bit of maintenance will give you a lot more life.
They're heavy gauge aluminum... Rust is not an issue.
@@jreyman The skid plates on the OBS suburbans are not aluminium, they are steel. I know, I own one.
I just had my 4wd service done on my 5 year old Ram 1500 @ 55k mile. Transfer case and all diff fluids changed.
That's a good truck in good shape!! That's a good T case also.
The newer trucks have a magna T case.
Goldplug makes some very nice magnetic drain plugs for nearly every application. Even if they don't have a vehicle specific plug, if you know the thread pitch, depth and diameter of bolt you can find one. They are very strong magnets and are probably better to be installed before initial break in to capture any shavings.
The craziest thing is how spotless the underside of this vehicle is. In the Midwest this thing would have been a rust bucket a decade ago.
Jimmy the GM guide . good job man 👍
All modern car companies call their transfer case fluid "lifetime". Always do at least every 50k! Lifetime just means it will wear out and break if you wait too long! Don't fall for it...do it and sooner!!
Learning a lot from your vids just got a 99 yukon I guarantee il be using your vids in the future.
Thank you Jimmy. Your video's are awesome and I enjoy watching them. Bill
Jimmy your video is of much help and good advice. Gracias !
I have a wrangler yj
This helped me alot
Thank you all the way from saudi arabia
Awesome. Companies do make transfer case funnels though. However, I like your ingenuity with the hose.
Or you could use those siphon pump gadgets
Great video. Short, sweet, to the point. Doing this job on my '99 Tahoe Z71 today for a trip this weekend. Thanks!!
Great information bro !!!!!! Really appreciate it Jimmy !!!!
Knowing factory fluids like I do, this should have been changed the day the original buyer bought it.
When I purchased my 2019 Ranger, within the first 2 days I had the motor oil, both diffs, transfer case, antifreeze, brake fluid all switched.
Doing this also along with both diff. Using your videos as a guide. Thank u Jimmy
I always pour some new in to flush a little more of the old out.
Sure, or just do this job a couple months later.
Good video, much better than the windshield wipers video.
Thank you for teaching us I'm going change fluid for my 95 gmc cierra. God bless you
MaxLife is a GREAT transmission fluid!
That truck is so clean
Thank you for stressing the over tighten
Just replaced my transfer case fluid on my Nissan Xterra for the first time. Vehicle is 18 years old with 220k miles on it. I use the 4WD maybe two or three times per year. Old fluid was NASTY black and the magnet had an inch of fine metal debris stuck to it. Also, capacity was 2.5 quarts but I only got 1 quart out of there ( rear seal leak) Entire job only took maybe 30 minutes and the fluid isn't expensive. I'm not sure why I've been too lazy to do it until now.
I have already changed all of the drive train fluids in my 14 Silverado around 70,000 miles.. but I also off road a lot.
Just curious, what did your front diff fluid look like coming out? Color?
@@1RoadGarage it's been a while since I did it. I think a slight gray, not as bad as I thought. My other truck with about the same miles had a little more gray color.
Great one! I dont have a transfer case but any info is good info!
Great content I have a truck that needs this. One side note I imagine you took it off the jackstands prior to adding that final quart so the level will be right. If you didn't at least you are AWARE that either less or more fluid went in than if level. Hopefully more.
what engine is that starting in your into? sound like a ford V8, sounds good either way!
*I bought my 2010 Ford Explorer 4X4 V8 XLT used and one of the first things I did was changed my differential fluid and transfer case fluid.*
Ive never changed min. Ive got a 1994 chevy Silverado. Thinking about it now.
I am surprised the drain plug wasn't magnetized. The fluid really didn't look that bad. Probably just driven short distances or the previous owner changed it.
Where did you get the nylon washers? Can you attach a link? I asked GM and for 1 they are wanting about $30.
Your amazing man saving me money
I just did on my yukon slt 4 doors but was full synthetic what you think
Solid tips & cautions...thorough too. Now you got me wondering about mine...oh why did I click? But thanks!
that was awesome thanks for the info
I've got a cast iron transfer case on a 1987, chevy surburban
I need to do that on my 4wd Pilot. I last done so at close to 90k miles.
Great job thanks
I've done replaced fluid in the rear axle. Pretty much the same way but boy it really smells!!
Yep. ATF stinks but gear oil is even worse.
@@dyoel182 - Ever smell 140w gear oil? That's the worst oil smell I ever had experienced. It was bad enough that the smell stays in your nose for a short time after you finished smelling it.
Gear oil stinks...old gear oil is rank.....
Nice video Jim! :) always a pleasure when you upload
Thank you thank you!!
Does the trans fluid run through the transfer case? I thought it was separate.
That fluid is older than me and I turned 22 😂
Good video!
No motorkote in transfer case?
What about taking off the transfer case cover??? How much oil is left over after draining it?
Damn, that Suburban of your is showroom clean under it. You can eat off that transfer case.
nice video very helpful.!
I love your videos man, Nice Job keep going 🤙🤙🤙🤙
Waiting the next one
Thank you! Next one will be out Sunday morning (hopefully).
Why do the 2x4 pieces I use always break when try putting the on my jack when raising the car?
Nice one Jim!
Thank you!!
Good video amigo.
Do you have an email address to inquire about copyright for educational purposes?
Thanks!
Hey Jimmy my grandpa accidentally added a quart of 5w30 engine oil into his 06 ford ranger 4x4 transmission fluid and the truck ran fine for awhile, now it won't run anymore, when you put it in drive the engine revs but no movement. Any ideas how to fix it
What make and model of vehicle?
@@JA-rn5qv 2006 ford ranger
realistically your transfercase fluid while dirty still had a lot of film strenght. Transfer cases typically spin way slow and have less mechanical wear than differentials and transmissions. You probably could easily get away with 100k on transfercase fluid and not have that much mechanical wear to the gears. Rear truck differentials on the other hard will definitely start showing wear after 30k-50k. Now is that wear relevant to the destruction of the diff - that depends on engineering.
I have a question....if moving my automatic SUV gears from park to drive makes a bit of a 'clunk', could that be a sign that the transfer case fluid should be changed?
Transmission
awesome. thanks
Good video
That’s strange that in just a few years GM changed to the Blue Smurf fluid for the transfer cases my 01 Yukon had the wrong stuff in it when I purchased it fortunately I changed it as soon as I purchased it to the Delco blue stuff been working great ever since 40000 + miles
This was so helpful
Thank you sir
Appriciate
😍👌
Thank you!
Do I have to replace my fill plug or can I use it again
In my case, the fill plug and washer looked perfectly fine to use again. 👍
Always loosen the drain plug first. The gears in the t case always move when the vehicle is moving even if it’s in 2wd. This way like the vid said you don’t fry the case due to no fluid.
Wtf are you talking about
Was curious, do you know what fluid the front end would take on a 95 suburban
.info is easy obtainable...80-90gear oil.run synthetic its worth the few extra bucks...I change mine out every
35-40,000 miles..cheap insurance if u plan on keeping it for a long time...(04 crew 170,000 going strong)
@@j.cooper2246 thanks brother
Thanks man
Thank you!!
Nice work 🔧 ⚙️ 🔩
As far as I know, applying thread lock to oily threads is a total waste of time, some thread locks have tolerance to a small amount of oil contamination, but it’s not not much.
That struck me kind of odd. The rear differential uses gear oil, yet the transfer case uses transmission fluid. Any reason why it's not using gear oil?
Not really that odd, although not as common anymore as it used to be. Just like some cars use power steering fluid for the power steering where-as other vehicles use ATF in the power steering.
Nice work jimmy. Haha skid marks.
Haha, wasn't sure if that'd be funny but left it in anyway. Thanks!!
Good vid
If it is calling for transmission fluid, there must be clutches in there. I have heard that some can just take gear oil. The spec of which I would look into more closely to make sure it does not need some sort of additive (some already have it in them). My mother has a 2017 Nissan Rogue Sport and I am looking into what to use when I do that first change some day. It is not uncommon for people to drain black nasty horrible smelling oil from those and differentials even with fairly low mileage. I have never drained a differential before but some people say that the oil smells terrible after being in there so long. When it is new it is not the most pleasant scent either.
That's actually true. l just got done draining and refilling the rear differential of 2 of my cars today, both of them take GL-5 75W-90. The new gear oil in the bottle stinks but no big deal, you just are aware that it's not a pleasant smell.... BUT... the old fluid l drained out... that was stench was on a whole different level... it's the type of smell that just a slight wiff of it at you instincts tell you to not breath it on a borderline panic instinctual panic level. The few wiffs l go while l was under the car caused me to get up and walk far enough away to get some fresh air because it even made me light headed, so it's a bit more than just an unpleasant smell. That being said, the old fluid actually looked surprisingly good, as if it were brand new actually and even the viscosity was still perfect. That fluid had 73,000 miles on it. l replaced it with SuperTech Full Synthetic GL-5 (made by Castrol) which is also what the transfer case calls for. My manual trans takes GL-4 gear oil. The only thing in that particular vehicle of mine that calls for ATF is the power steering
This guy looks like the Roy petty from ozark the show
Oh hey Jimmy 👊🏻
Change is good
Thanks. 👍🇺🇸👍🇺🇸
no chance i would stick that bottle in with that red cap on it... no need and what if it gets stuck!!!
That should be good for 💯 K Miles now. Lol
me, just a question ;) you put thread locker, but the threads in the hole are coated with oil. Isn't it going to negate the thread locker?
Yeah you are right, it's better to let case drain and completely stop dripping first, then use a dry cloth to wipe down the hole threads really well, and then get a clean cloth, wet a small area of the cloth with pure isopropyl alcohol and also wipe the plug with the same alcohol, then apply the sealant/gasket maker to the threads, then insert and tighten the plug. One thing to keep in mind is that for diffs and t-cases that take gear oil it's better to use RTV-gasket maker which is specifically made to resist breakdown from gear oil and heat.
What does a transfer case do
u look like the cop from ozark.
Did you use the blue lock tight on the 2 plugs?
It looked red to me, but I am color blind
lf the diff/t-case calls for gear lube then its better to use rtv sealant/gasket maker.
Good job brother so you sold ur 03 huh just tell us already
I took out the fill plug and got about 2 quarts of oil out. I then took out the drain plug and got 2 more. What's going on?
This can be a sign of a Seal failure between the transmission and Transfer case, i've heard about it before when the seal fails it can cause fluid from the trans it leak into the transfer case leading to fluid to come out when you pull the fill plug, 1A auto also mentions this in one of the videos they put up, cant remember which one though, goodluck.
Generally plugs are around 10 ft lbs
RCMOTO not true more like 25 to 30 ft lbs.
Actually 15-25
LOL get the wife in some more videos ! Lucky man and by the content she is a lucky lady. cute fam.
Can you do mine I’m coming over buddy! Lol
your drain plug was missing the magnet
You forgot to say that only apply for 4x4 .
Some idiot who changed the oil on my 05 Buick century used some sort of white tape on the drain plug for the engine oil . Don't no why tho
Some people prefer to use teflon tape. For diff plugs and t-case plugs l use RTV sealant/gasket maker but that's because both my diff and t-case take GL-5 gear oil and the RTV-Sealant/gasket maker is specifically designed to be resistant to gear oil. For the engine oil drain plug l've never bothered using any sealer, just the crush washer which l replace every 3 to 4 oil changes and never had any leaks. Perhaps that owner was using the teflon tape due to a slow leak from the drain plug.
And hope the last idiot who replaced the fluid didn’t use super lock tight on the drain bolt LOL
rtv sealant works well for that.
That's the same transfer case as my tj wrangler.
Sooo.. what happens if you dont change it?
Thins out as it gets old which can stress the pump, reduce cooling, which can then deplete additives in fluid and result to acidic conditions which can then damage metal components of T-case and seals.
Damn, I have a 2007 Lincoln Navigator 4x4 with 144,000 miles on it and these last 2 videos are making me cringe knowing I have to change my differential fluid and transfer case fluid.
Haha! Don't cringe, if they're anything like mine, it's fairly easy to do.