Do not take this the wrong way fellas and fellettes! After reading all of the commentary on this Video I have reached a conclusion regarding all of you armchair mechanics / experts. You constantly question the veracity of the work being performed, you find fault with the way Ray completes each task, a lot of you seem to think you know better than the guy who was GM trained / certified / experienced. At the beginning of the video Ray stated the customer requested the oil pump and timing chain replacement! This may just be a routine maintainence item request based upon mileage or customer research. Regardless why question the fact the customer requested the parts, Ray's job is to repair and replace parts either through his experience / prior knowledge of performance issues with said parts / tech publications etc. Ray is a highly skilled technician and brings a wealth of knowledge logic and practical experience to the table. Rather than constantly questioning what he has / has not done why don't y'all shut up enjoy the videos and trust that Ray does his job correctly. If Ray makes a mistake he owns up and corrects the mistake that is the sign of not only an excellent mechanical technician but an honest technician. If this offends you or your sensibilities then get over it! My statement is not written to offend but to offer a level of clarity of purpose.
You are right. As an ASE certified technician I have never seen Ray do anything wrong. His work is both entertaining and professional. I thank him for sharing his work day with us.
@Number 6. I see something questionable in this clip. The use of U joint sockets with an impact. Swivel/ball joint sockets work better, less torque loss from the driver. 🤣
Absolutely correct. I'm sure the oil pump could be measured against specs, or the oil pressure simply could be tested, but here's the problem for a shop. You only do what is required to keep the vehicle running and if something else happens related to the repair you did, it affects your reputation and you might even be sued in court and have to take time off to appear. You might even lose the suit. Case in point, my former landlady's 2008 Lexus. The radiator sprung a leak. If it was my own car, I would just get a radiator, maybe even from the self-service wrecking yard and toss it in. Her bill for the radiator replacement was well over $1000. Why? Because the shop has to do everything. Flush the system. Change hoses and belts. Change the thermostat. Get a top-of-the line replacement radiator. For all I know, even change the heater core. And why does the shop have to change everything? Because in many cases, even if the customer is told there could be other problems in the future if only the offending part itself was changed, the customer will still complain and maybe bad mouth the shop all over the neighborhood. I wish she'd told me she had a problem. I could have just changed the radiator itself for her. It's a very easy job. No local shop was going to do it that way though. I don't blame them. On my own car, I can do work in stages. I did all the front seals and the water pump recently but didn't change the timing belt or the idler and tensioner at that time because the timing belt was aftermarket already. I can do that. A shop wouldn't.
@@anonymike8280 to add onto things you can do yourself, i slipped all 3 belts around my fan unit and tension each pivot point and serviced my ute/truck in less than an hour while every shop wanted to remove my fan and radiator and take a few hours, its not even a big engine its a tiny 2L 4cyl plenty of working room around it
When that bell type sound rings, it brings me back to the days when you would pull into a service station for gas at the "full service" pumps! There would be a black hose you run over and it would alert the attendant or mechanic in the service station to I'm out to the pumps and fill a vehicles gas tank, check the oil and clean the windows. Same ring, to the T. That was in the days when a gas station was also the auto repair location not a local store 🤣😎 Does anyone else remember the ding ding when pulling in to a gas station?
Again,,,, that’s the exact DING I heard sometime in my life! Many moons ago,,,,when we were kids,,, we would sneak around the corner of a gas station & “try” to drive the attendant crazy,,,, we would hide,,, step on the hose, then do it over & over,, till the “dummy” caught on & chased us away ! The good old days,,,, Never to return….. thanks !
@@fredwalker839 That's too funny. If I remember correct, I believe the hose was an old compressor hose that went to a diaphragm type pressure switch,. That would connect the voltage to a plunger then would hit the bell. I worked at Arco on Schaaf and Broadview in Cleveland, Ohio, back in the '80s. It had two mechanic bays, but I worked the night shift and that damn bell going off all the time, I had to look at how it worked :) - Now hearing that ding brings back good memories of the days gone by! Oh, did I mention the local kids that would wait until I got back in the office and then ride their bikes over and over? Ugh....good times :)
@@adotintheshark4848 Not ours at the Arco. It was activated by a regular compressor hose, capped at one end and connected to a box with the bell at the other end in the shop area. No compressor, as the ambient air in the line was enough of a puff to move the diaphragm that made contacts with the leaf switch and that completed the 120vac circuit, which was connected to a coil, or a relay I guess. That relay when energized, had a plunger that snapped and hit the inside of the bell case. The owner used these at all his stations and I opened the box to see how it worked as I was going to soften the loudness, although I never did as I liked my job....until me and several others were laid off because the owner made half his islands "Self-Service" - Does anyone remember when the full serve started migrating? I do know there were other types, including the types that connected to the compressor, just didn't see the inner workings of these other types like I did with ours.
Recently did an oil cooler repair on my own Audi A8 D2, one of the most dreaded repairs on that V8 engine - all by myself. Saved me over 1000$ in mechanic bills. Honestly seeing how relaxed and calm you handle these jobs, how you always find a solution has given me so much confidence to work on my own cars. Been subscribed for half a year now and I've become a loyal watcher of your content :)
@@TheFrenchPug Oh for sure, this repair took me a week. Shops have all the tools, I do not... But hey, I always consider tools I buy for these repairs "free", as in the money I've used for tools instead of mechanic bills have already paid themselves down! But then again, that's a bonus to me, working on cars is a hobby which happens to pay for itself when you get enough experience :)
@@Krisemann Definitely have all the tools at your disposal is a gift from God when you are doing any repair. But, better to take your time if you are a first go then to screw it up and have to do it over or take it in and have it done.
@@ronsloan7662 Well it's a pretty big job but I'm no pro, thankfully there were good guides online on how to do this. I'm a civil engineer, not a mechanic! Though, I do have experience from earlier. If you wanna be able to do bigger jobs I'd recommend starting out with owning and wrenching on a beater (I started out on a Volvo 850!), then when you get experienced enough you can start doing smaller and maybe bigger repairs on your daily driver. I always have at least 1 car in working order though (I own 3). Also, it is important to not give up. I was cursing and swearing, throwing wrenches into the ground and so on trying to get that oil cooler out, and in. Sometimes I would spend hours in the thinking box. It is indeed a whole process, like running a marathon, but when you make it to the end it feels so good. I even kept the old cracked plastic coolant pipe (yes, that is why I had to pull the whole oil cooler) as a souvenir, sitting on my desk right here. Nowadays I'm doing the window lifter on it, which is much easier, but I've spent the last week or so waiting for parts...
Nice to see a customer who actually wants to take great care in having his vehicle maintained well. Good on his. And you sure buzzed through all that quick. lol
18:03 : "Binding. Still binding." That made me grin, I started wondering if we will get any more LockPickingLawyer lingo, like perhaps "Click on one. Nice click on two. Nothing on three." Might be funny to have a meta crossover like that. 😄😄
Every time I’m tightening anything down, I say “click” when I have it tight. I changed my spark plugs and wires yesterday and I kept saying “click”. LOL 😂 🤣❤️
Good Tools are not a Warrenty for a good Work, but they are the best Indicator You can have. Congratulations for those, I think You're doing a great Job.
"Ding bolts are done." LMAO!!! Honestly Ray, I think your haters and hard critics are jealous. Many Repair and custom/workshop guys try to "over Professional" the next guy. You are knowledgeable, Professional, Helpful, Selfless, and above all Honest. You love your job only to help people along with their life. Never stop 'busting out the wobbly' Ray.
Can we just appreciate at 1:39 that the designers and engineers of the car were not completely messed up in their brains and had enough clearance for the oil to drain without splashing all over the crossmembers like it's usually happening?
Having another great morning while drinking my coffee watching Ray having himself a great day today playing with a Tahoe motor. Ray back in the day I changed the timing chain & gears on my 1970 Oldsmobile 88 with the 350 V-8, it was way easier than the one that you’re doing. Now the manufacturers have gotten completely Stupid
nah not really.. oil pump in different spot, chain rails added to take up slop so not floppin around in 50k like your olds & vvt is pretty simple. machined flanges actually seal up fairly well on the newer design too!
That damn front seal is the bane of my existence…. Pulled my 5.3 in my Tahoe because it was eating oil and had a AFM lifter failure. Rebuilt it, put all new parts in it. Was happy with the way it went together. Threw it back in, two weeks later had a slow weep from the front main . Better than the rear main I guess. It never dripped, it is just damp. I’ll be damned if I’m taking the front of the engine off again for that seal!
If that timing cover doesn’t have locating pins then the crank pulley should be installed before tightening the cover to get proper alignment on the crank seal
@@AdamantineAxe I think you might want to think about what will happen if the seal isn’t centered they do make a sleeve that you slip over the crankshaft to help center the seal when installing the cover
As someone who sells this stuff all day long, it’s nice to put video to pictures. I know a lot about LS motors, but I’ve never owned a car/truck that’s had one so I’ve never worked on one. I always wondered why the LS crank gear looked different from just a reg sbc crank gear. I didn’t know it actually drove the oil pump. I knew the oil pump was up front, but didn’t know how it all tied together. This video is a great resource!!
I've watched you do two oil pan videos now that really make me appreciate the ease of access on my 2002 Town and Country van. Both the oil pan and transmission pan are completely accessible w/out removing anything ahead of time.
Great videos, I'm a retired mechanic and before there was TH-cam and internet we had to visit coworkers, shops, dealers, and rely on word of mouth for tips, shortcuts, and some bad advice.😊 Like they say A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words. We also would use assembly lube, and load new oil filters, which is rarely done nowadays.
Ray, thank you for sharing your videos with us! Observing you do your work and the humor you inject into it is both entertaining and educational - gives me the confidence to tackle some of my own repairs. You also restore the faith I have in mechanics. Well done! Looking forward to more :)
I'm retired from wrenching for 50 years and I only do small jobs. I was working on my lawn tractor and found myself talking to it ! After completion of a job I found myself saying "very good". I need to stop this !
I've been maintaining our vehicles for years and as a Kid long ago, my Parents cars, starting at age 10. I recently had a 2013 FIAT Abarth and the Multiaire brick failed. Dealer wanted $2300 to fix it. Got a junkyard part with 14k miles on it and did the job myself. Unlike Sir Ray, I work very slowly. Not having to work against a clock. Even with over 50 years of wrenching on my cars and friends cars, I don't have the confidence that Ray has. I'm busy with work and home but love Ray's video's.. Thanks for posting them.
GM WCT here. No one has mentioned that there is a special tool required to align the timing cover on installation, it fits over the crank and fits over the two machined bosses on either side of the crank seal bore. Not using the tool may result in the crank seal being misaligned with the center line of the crankshaft, This is true with all LS engines.
You must be the happiest mechanic in the world, I like the way you bring your enthusiasm to work with you I'm sure you have days that nothing seems to be going your way but I truly haven't seen any really bad ones yet keep up the good work, a fellow Greasemonkey.🐒 mechanic retired.
Do you remember the old days ?? To change the oil pump on a chevy 283.. It was a breeze !!! This must be engine advancement. Sorry, Give me the 283's and 327's. Fantastic Video my friend. Jim
That crank pulley is supposed to be installed prior to tightening the front cover bolts. There is a good chance that the front seal will not be centered and cause a leak.
What I've always loved about his videos is that he has fun doing it and doesn't talk down to you if you know nothing about car engines. To me he's the Bob Ross of mechanics.
Bolt hitting pulley reminds me of the gas station dinger from a time long ago. Used to be triggered by an air hose that when driven over (or stepped on 😂) would signal the attendant that a customer had arrived and needed gas, check oil and tire pressure and finish off this a windshield wash. If paying with a credit card they would require your signature along with your license plate number. It was $.32 a gallon so that was at least a 2-3$ visit.
Hated those credit card slides... And at least once in awhile a cash pay would ring up $2.85 and give you $3 and tell you to keep the change! Of course, minimum wage was $1.60/ hr...
I know when I did my 99 Suburban's oil pan, I changed the pump in it, 230K miles, figured it deserved it, I did use a high volume pump for it since that engine does suffer from piston slap on cold starts, figured more oil being pumped threw the engine wouldn't hurt I use to idle at 15ish psi warm to idle at 40psi warm, plus it was easy on my truck.
I didn't see why the customer wanted a new oil pump but if he had an inside gauge and noticed it was a little low he might be disappointed with his high volume oil pump. High volume does not mean high pressure. The high volume pumps have a relatively low pressure dump valve, so pressure may even be lower than the old pump. Ask me how I know.
Over at Auto Zone. "Ray just called in." "WHAT? Oh no, did we get in that pallet of Brake Cleaner yet? You know his standing order is 4 cases every time he calls."
I'm totally amazed how much has changed since I worked on cars in my earlier days. It was much simpler before the engineers got involved. It was a simple procedure. You didn't have to take the motor apart ti change the oil pump.
I agree to a point! Speaking on GM thinking: the old oil pump was driven by the camshaft, with a gear pump, which turns 1/2 the speed of the crank! The new / now way is a “ vane” pump driven off crank speed ! Downside, Vane pumps cannot be “ abused “ like a gear pump! A little dirt, chews them up ! No $30.00 oil changes, toilet paper $1.00 oil filter equals,,, massive destruction! Have a great day !
I had a ‘70 Chrysler 440. It had the oil pump on the outside of the block. I always thought that was a great design. The distributor was on the front of the block at a hard angle so the shaft lined up to drive the oil pump.
"before the engineers got involved." Umm, buddy, engineers have ALWAYS been involved. It's more like when the bean counters took total control of design and production that there was no longer time to design cars to both run well and be serviced easily.
If you're wondering what I'm rabbiting on about, if you think about car parts, then as an example, the battery is unconnected from the radiator. Having no direct link with each other. In personal terms, strangers are unconnected people, whereas people who were once friends but are no longer, then they have become disconnected. Everything has a meaning Ray my man.
@26:40 It looks like the top sprocket is still off about one tooth to the right, but it could just be the camera angle. The (top) cam sprocket arrow was pointing to the left of the hole @23:06 and now it points to the center @27:10. I did not know if that one tooth would make a difference in final timings? Thanks for the videos Ray, I enjoy all of them!
don't feel the need to prime the new oil pump? I've had people put brand new, above the oil level style pumps and found them air bound, unable to lift the oil up out of the pan when dry. My fix is to feed pressurized oil into the system from above (usually at the oil sending unit port or similar) and rotate the engine backwards to draw oil into the pump from the outlet side. Then it works fine after that. I always fill the pump with oil in my hand before installing it.
Wow, someone is spending some money on this ride, I like it. Not sure how much a new water pump is, or how old that one is, but if I had it off anyway and it was old, I would have replaced it. Great video, thanks for the content.
@@jameshedrick605 , yeah, I’m the same way. It can get expensive though. Went in to get mud tires on a little 2000 Dakota quad cab 4x4 when I was working in Georgia back in 2017. Ended up replacing rear leaf springs, hangers, tie rod ends, shocks on front and rear, rubber bed mounts, axle shafts, transmission pan and service, rear diff service, basically everything under the truck, to the tune of about 6 or 8 grand. My dad still drives it around.
@@hiddenman99 sure it will. 2 to 1, Just as long as he sets the mark at the top or bottom of the cam gear and the crank gears mark is at the top. Simpler lining them up where the dots or marks are together.
@@chrisfeik1248 yes it will work as he did it . I’m just concerned that if someone following this video might get into trouble. Also as a factory trained tech I was always taught to put engine repairs back to spec. What if the cam shifts a bit and he misses the timing by a tooth or even two? It will still run then also but won’t have good performance and may cause early engine failure if operated that way for long. All that needed to be done was to turn the crankshaft another 360 degrees and the marks would have been aligned
@@hiddenman99 it will run as long as he doesn’t change the orientation of the gears but it is easier to place the timing marks together to ensure that the timing is correct. The way it was done makes it easier to get it a tooth off.
I am amazed at how you go about working on these newer cars. I think I would throw up by the nightmare lack of engineering. In the day, I could have my engine out and on the stand in an hour and a half flat. I give you kudos and wish you were here in California but I don't think you dumb enough to move here. Dale
Could just be a high mileage engine with some extra bearing clearance, that would drop pressure on a standard pump. He mentioned the replacement pump is a high volume style, possibly to extract as much mileage out of it as possible. I had a 1988 Caprice with a built LM1 350 in it ... when I rebuilt that engine, I used a high volume oil pump but elected to use the standard pressure relief spring to keep pressures normal. That engine came out at 360k miles (drove the piss out of that car), which I did just because I wanted a fresh engine. The hot idle oil pressure was 25psi on it, 40psi at 2000 RPM, all within tolerance ... hot as in Phoenix, AZ summer heat hot, yet when I broke the engine down, there was almost nothing left of the main and rod bearings - all worn into the copper and the crank was toast. That high volume pump I used made up for the extra clearance in the bearings, and I never knew their condition when running the engine.
It looks like what happened was the customer brought it back complaining of an oil leak to the place that installed it. Then in an attempt to fix it the mechanic just applied more torque.
I'm picking up all kinds of words from the channels I'm following. Click and gravity tend to work it's way into my brain from this channel. I think the worst/best comes from AvE though. Uncle B does have a very specialized and flexible vocabulary. And then there's Blondihacks who has a couple of earworms in the simple tapi tap tap and the for me unexplainable Yatzy whenever parting anything on the lathe.
The oil likely is leaking from the rear main seal housing. I have a customer that we have replaced every gasket on the damn thing.. I've used dye bore scopes mirrors and frustration to find it.
The owner of this vehicle seems to be the best kind. Takes care with regular oil changes (that oil is beautiful looking), the engine is clean (especially no Fifel action), if you recommend it being fixed, they defer to your professional judgment.
they dont take good care of the car interior. a previous video shows the inside being a total pile. The vehicle itself is in great shape but the back looks like a hoarders haven
Oh, I noticed some editing or redo for the camera. At 21:23 when you're lining up timing marks, the cam VVT phaser bolt is loose like you removed/loosened it before you lined up the marks. Then at 22:00 it's magically tightened up again and you loosen it up!
I thought it was common courtesy to have the interior of your car in "decent" shape before dropping it off at the shop.... Ray's videos have shown me that I am in the minority!!!
Just had my work van for a MOT or state inspection or what you wanna call it, yearly inspection. I didn't have time to clean it thoroughly but did at least clean out the front seat that I use as my office with laptop and papers and also tidying a bit on the floor
I thought it was interesting on the side, the pan, was leaking the bolts didn't want to come loose (too tight).. The side that wasn't leaking, bolts came out as expected.
I am amazed that pan wasn't cracked from the 250 or so foot pounds of torque the bolts had...I would have put a torque wrench on it and saw about what were over tightened to. We heard the soft clicks too:-) I just hope that p/s line the last guy tweaked pulling the pan doesn't become an issue when that area is buttoned back up. I love your content...variety is a great thing:-) Keep 'em coming Ray:-)
that timing cover needs to be aligned properly with an alignment tool around the crank and preferablya straightedge along the bottom of the block. otherwise could cause the crank seal to leak or even the oil pan gasket
Do not take this the wrong way fellas and fellettes!
After reading all of the commentary on this Video I have reached a conclusion regarding all of you armchair mechanics / experts.
You constantly question the veracity of the work being performed, you find fault with the way Ray completes each task, a lot of you seem to think you know better than the guy who was GM trained / certified / experienced.
At the beginning of the video Ray stated the customer requested the oil pump and timing chain replacement! This may just be a routine maintainence item request based upon mileage or customer research.
Regardless why question the fact the customer requested the parts, Ray's job is to repair and replace parts either through his experience / prior knowledge of performance issues with said parts / tech publications etc.
Ray is a highly skilled technician and brings a wealth of knowledge logic and practical experience to the table.
Rather than constantly questioning what he has / has not done why don't y'all shut up enjoy the videos and trust that Ray does his job correctly.
If Ray makes a mistake he owns up and corrects the mistake that is the sign of not only an excellent mechanical technician but an honest technician.
If this offends you or your sensibilities then get over it!
My statement is not written to offend but to offer a level of clarity of purpose.
Your comment deserves a zillion likes.
You are right. As an ASE certified technician I have never seen Ray do anything wrong. His work is both entertaining and professional. I thank him for sharing his work day with us.
@Number 6. I see something questionable in this clip.
The use of U joint sockets with an impact. Swivel/ball joint sockets work better, less torque loss from the driver. 🤣
Absolutely correct. I'm sure the oil pump could be measured against specs, or the oil pressure simply could be tested, but here's the problem for a shop. You only do what is required to keep the vehicle running and if something else happens related to the repair you did, it affects your reputation and you might even be sued in court and have to take time off to appear. You might even lose the suit.
Case in point, my former landlady's 2008 Lexus. The radiator sprung a leak. If it was my own car, I would just get a radiator, maybe even from the self-service wrecking yard and toss it in. Her bill for the radiator replacement was well over $1000.
Why? Because the shop has to do everything. Flush the system. Change hoses and belts. Change the thermostat. Get a top-of-the line replacement radiator. For all I know, even change the heater core.
And why does the shop have to change everything? Because in many cases, even if the customer is told there could be other problems in the future if only the offending part itself was changed, the customer will still complain and maybe bad mouth the shop all over the neighborhood. I wish she'd told me she had a problem. I could have just changed the radiator itself for her. It's a very easy job. No local shop was going to do it that way though. I don't blame them.
On my own car, I can do work in stages. I did all the front seals and the water pump recently but didn't change the timing belt or the idler and tensioner at that time because the timing belt was aftermarket already. I can do that. A shop wouldn't.
@@anonymike8280 to add onto things you can do yourself, i slipped all 3 belts around my fan unit and tension each pivot point and serviced my ute/truck in less than an hour while every shop wanted to remove my fan and radiator and take a few hours, its not even a big engine its a tiny 2L 4cyl plenty of working room around it
When that bell type sound rings, it brings me back to the days when you would pull into a service station for gas at the "full service" pumps! There would be a black hose you run over and it would alert the attendant or mechanic in the service station to I'm out to the pumps and fill a vehicles gas tank, check the oil and clean the windows. Same ring, to the T.
That was in the days when a gas station was also the auto repair location not a local store 🤣😎
Does anyone else remember the ding ding when pulling in to a gas station?
Yup. I thought the same thing.
Again,,,, that’s the exact DING I heard sometime in my life! Many moons ago,,,,when we were kids,,, we would sneak around the corner of a gas station & “try” to drive the attendant crazy,,,, we would hide,,, step on the hose, then do it over & over,, till the “dummy” caught on & chased us away ! The good old days,,,, Never to return….. thanks !
@@fredwalker839 That's too funny. If I remember correct, I believe the hose was an old compressor hose that went to a diaphragm type pressure switch,. That would connect the voltage to a plunger then would hit the bell. I worked at Arco on Schaaf and Broadview in Cleveland, Ohio, back in the '80s. It had two mechanic bays, but I worked the night shift and that damn bell going off all the time, I had to look at how it worked :) - Now hearing that ding brings back good memories of the days gone by! Oh, did I mention the local kids that would wait until I got back in the office and then ride their bikes over and over? Ugh....good times :)
that black cord was full of air that got squeezed when you ran over it, thus ringing the bell. It was powered by the air compressor.
@@adotintheshark4848 Not ours at the Arco. It was activated by a regular compressor hose, capped at one end and connected to a box with the bell at the other end in the shop area. No compressor, as the ambient air in the line was enough of a puff to move the diaphragm that made contacts with the leaf switch and that completed the 120vac circuit, which was connected to a coil, or a relay I guess. That relay when energized, had a plunger that snapped and hit the inside of the bell case. The owner used these at all his stations and I opened the box to see how it worked as I was going to soften the loudness, although I never did as I liked my job....until me and several others were laid off because the owner made half his islands "Self-Service" - Does anyone remember when the full serve started migrating? I do know there were other types, including the types that connected to the compressor, just didn't see the inner workings of these other types like I did with ours.
By the amount of torque on those oil pan bolts I believe a size 50 shirt and a size 2 hat was involved
😂😂👍
More look Ike a size 0 hat
Hey quit picking on us fluffy guys. Fluffy life's matter.
This comment wins the internet for today!! 🤪😂
r/rareinsults
Ok 12:46 before we got the doodley do’s. We still miss them. We still watch EVERY Rainman Ray TH-cam video. Great work and commentary Ray.
Recently did an oil cooler repair on my own Audi A8 D2, one of the most dreaded repairs on that V8 engine - all by myself. Saved me over 1000$ in mechanic bills. Honestly seeing how relaxed and calm you handle these jobs, how you always find a solution has given me so much confidence to work on my own cars. Been subscribed for half a year now and I've become a loyal watcher of your content :)
Nice job on doing your own Audi oil cooler! Ray certainly approaches his jobs like they're all pretty easy. When we know that is not the case.
@@TheFrenchPug Oh for sure, this repair took me a week. Shops have all the tools, I do not... But hey, I always consider tools I buy for these repairs "free", as in the money I've used for tools instead of mechanic bills have already paid themselves down! But then again, that's a bonus to me, working on cars is a hobby which happens to pay for itself when you get enough experience :)
That's a big job you undertook there. As always, you make it look easy when it really isn't. But isn't that what pro's do?
@@Krisemann Definitely have all the tools at your disposal is a gift from God when you are doing any repair. But, better to take your time if you are a first go then to screw it up and have to do it over or take it in and have it done.
@@ronsloan7662 Well it's a pretty big job but I'm no pro, thankfully there were good guides online on how to do this. I'm a civil engineer, not a mechanic! Though, I do have experience from earlier. If you wanna be able to do bigger jobs I'd recommend starting out with owning and wrenching on a beater (I started out on a Volvo 850!), then when you get experienced enough you can start doing smaller and maybe bigger repairs on your daily driver. I always have at least 1 car in working order though (I own 3).
Also, it is important to not give up. I was cursing and swearing, throwing wrenches into the ground and so on trying to get that oil cooler out, and in. Sometimes I would spend hours in the thinking box. It is indeed a whole process, like running a marathon, but when you make it to the end it feels so good. I even kept the old cracked plastic coolant pipe (yes, that is why I had to pull the whole oil cooler) as a souvenir, sitting on my desk right here. Nowadays I'm doing the window lifter on it, which is much easier, but I've spent the last week or so waiting for parts...
Nice to see a customer who actually wants to take great care in having his vehicle maintained well. Good on his.
And you sure buzzed through all that quick. lol
Cup of tea + Ray in the morning = no Monday blues
18:03 : "Binding. Still binding." That made me grin, I started wondering if we will get any more LockPickingLawyer lingo, like perhaps "Click on one. Nice click on two. Nothing on three." Might be funny to have a meta crossover like that. 😄😄
Glad i’m not the only one watching both…
@@renemartens5657 You mean that there people who DON'T?
LPL fans everywhere haha he even watches and comments on cleetus McFarlands vids
Good one
It might be funnier if LPL went "doo da do da doo" when the phone rang.
Had to work on my truck yesterday, when I was tightening a bolt, I said, “click”. When it was tight. Thanks Ray, that’s stuck in my widdle head now.
Oh every bolt i touch now! Lol My mother has a very similar phone ringer as the shop. Trying to not go "do loo do loo" haha
Every time I’m tightening anything down, I say “click” when I have it tight. I changed my spark plugs and wires yesterday and I kept saying “click”. LOL 😂 🤣❤️
I did it twice in a TH-cam video I shot yesterday. I'm corrupting even more people. :(
It’s torn down that far I think I would have approved a new water pump as well.
Belts, tensioner, thermostat, water pump. No reason not to unless they are pretty new.
Good Tools are not a Warrenty for a good Work, but they are the best Indicator You can have.
Congratulations for those, I think You're doing a great Job.
Ray, your work fascinates me, I could sit and watch it all day
I'm impressed with how energetically you attack your jobs.
I watch during my morning coffee everyday
As a automotive service writer, it is like heaven watching Ray.
@@onemansvideos2134 same.
Lot of work to remove pan customers don’t realise how much time these things take love your work man👍
"Ding bolts are done." LMAO!!! Honestly Ray, I think your haters and hard critics are jealous. Many Repair and custom/workshop guys try to "over Professional" the next guy. You are knowledgeable, Professional, Helpful, Selfless, and above all Honest. You love your job only to help people along with their life. Never stop 'busting out the wobbly' Ray.
Coming along swimmingly @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Can we just appreciate at 1:39 that the designers and engineers of the car were not completely messed up in their brains and had enough clearance for the oil to drain without splashing all over the crossmembers like it's usually happening?
its 2wd tho.. the 4x4 has very little space to work
Optional frame lubrication system for the N.E.
The alert sound when you grab a can of brake cleaner makes me unreasonably happy.
Who ever done oil pan bolts were way to tight and pushed out the sealer now leaks
Having another great morning while drinking my coffee watching Ray having himself a great day today playing with a Tahoe motor. Ray back in the day I changed the timing chain & gears on my 1970 Oldsmobile 88 with the 350 V-8, it was way easier than the one that you’re doing. Now the manufacturers have gotten completely Stupid
Honestly, this one looks like one of the easiest jobs he's had to do yet with the front timing chain replacement.
nah not really.. oil pump in different spot, chain rails added to take up slop so not floppin around in 50k like your olds & vvt is pretty simple. machined flanges actually seal up fairly well on the newer design too!
@@torkrench compared to an overhead cam engine... But actually the old buick v8s had this exact setup with the oil pump over the crank.
@@Bleachanna the old buick V6 and V8 engines had the oil pump in the timing cover , next to the crank , and they were driven by the distributor .
Part 2 Tune in Tomorrow. Same Ray time, Same Ray channel.
The clicks were very therapeutic on this video. Thanks Rainman.
You're going to need the NASA approved six 6 foot torque wrench so that you can torque the oil pan bolts back to 8,000 foot pounds
Lets hope you remember the bolts need tightening in rotation!
@Bowhunters , Knobs always add more torque when there sealing surface fails.
I always ding the water pump pully as many times as possible too. Why they always sound so good is beyond me, but its fun for me, so I do it
Me too ! Cool !
That damn front seal is the bane of my existence…. Pulled my 5.3 in my Tahoe because it was eating oil and had a AFM lifter failure. Rebuilt it, put all new parts in it. Was happy with the way it went together. Threw it back in, two weeks later had a slow weep from the front main . Better than the rear main I guess. It never dripped, it is just damp. I’ll be damned if I’m taking the front of the engine off again for that seal!
If that timing cover doesn’t have locating pins then the crank pulley should be installed before tightening the cover to get proper alignment on the crank seal
And the pump should be shimmed around the surface of the crank key at a minimum!!
How tf do you think the rubber seal lip is going to move the entire timing cover?
@@AdamantineAxe I think you might want to think about what will happen if the seal isn’t centered they do make a sleeve that you slip over the crankshaft to help center the seal when installing the cover
@@AdamantineAxe bro… go work on an LS, stop commenting
As someone who sells this stuff all day long, it’s nice to put video to pictures. I know a lot about LS motors, but I’ve never owned a car/truck that’s had one so I’ve never worked on one. I always wondered why the LS crank gear looked different from just a reg sbc crank gear. I didn’t know it actually drove the oil pump. I knew the oil pump was up front, but didn’t know how it all tied together. This video is a great resource!!
WHAT an involved PITA job, you have a ton more patience than I do
Truly amazing how many bolts and how you know how to put it all back together.
Just to thank you for being a true honest tech . again flush the haters.
I've watched you do two oil pan videos now that really make me appreciate the ease of access on my 2002 Town and Country van. Both the oil pan and transmission pan are completely accessible w/out removing anything ahead of time.
Better than a television show....rock on Ray.
Great videos, I'm a retired mechanic and before there was TH-cam and internet we had to visit coworkers, shops, dealers, and rely on word of mouth for tips, shortcuts, and some bad advice.😊 Like they say A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words. We also would use assembly lube, and load new oil filters, which is rarely done nowadays.
Ray, thank you for sharing your videos with us! Observing you do your work and the humor you inject into it is both entertaining and educational - gives me the confidence to tackle some of my own repairs. You also restore the faith I have in mechanics. Well done! Looking forward to more :)
I'm retired from wrenching for 50 years and I only do small jobs. I was working on my lawn tractor and found myself talking to it ! After completion of a job I found myself saying "very good". I need to stop this !
I've been maintaining our vehicles for years and as a Kid long ago, my Parents cars, starting at age 10. I recently had a 2013 FIAT Abarth and the Multiaire brick failed. Dealer wanted $2300 to fix it. Got a junkyard part with 14k miles on it and did the job myself. Unlike Sir Ray, I work very slowly. Not having to work against a clock. Even with over 50 years of wrenching on my cars and friends cars, I don't have the confidence that Ray has. I'm busy with work and home but love Ray's video's.. Thanks for posting them.
GM WCT here. No one has mentioned that there is a special tool required to align the timing cover on installation, it fits over the crank and fits over the two machined bosses on either side of the crank seal bore. Not using the tool may result in the crank seal being misaligned with the center line of the crankshaft, This is true with all LS engines.
Ray with my coffee is always a good way to start my day. 🙂
You must be the happiest mechanic in the world, I like the way you bring your enthusiasm to work with you I'm sure you have days that nothing seems to be going your way but I truly haven't seen any really bad ones yet keep up the good work, a fellow Greasemonkey.🐒 mechanic retired.
When I worked as a truck mechanic there were often those times when an extra arm and hand or two would have been very useful.
Good morning Ray!!
That was a slick move removing the drain plug with the electric wrench!!! Ray rocks!!! Heh heh YEAH!!!
Do you remember the old days ?? To change the oil pump on a chevy 283.. It was a breeze !!! This must be engine advancement. Sorry, Give me the 283's and 327's. Fantastic Video my friend. Jim
Every time you ding that idler it reminds me of the bell
Gas stations once had to alert attendants they had a gas customer.
Some say "Every time a pulley 'dings'.... Rainman gets a REEEEEEEEEEEEE!"
That crank pulley is supposed to be installed prior to tightening the front cover bolts. There is a good chance that the front seal will not be centered and cause a leak.
You know your stuff I've been watching you for years and I know you are a good mechanic engineer forget these aholes that write bad reviews
LMAO! I've worked at a GM dealership in BC Canada as a technician for over 20 years & this is the very first time I've seen a 2WD Tahoe!!!
Just happy to see you didn't have to employ any "mechanic's bandaids" made of paper towel and electrical tape today. Stellar job!
What I've always loved about his videos is that he has fun doing it and doesn't talk down to you if you know nothing about car engines. To me he's the Bob Ross of mechanics.
I always use impact swivels. They stay on better and don't wobble as much.
Bolt hitting pulley reminds me of the gas station dinger from a time long ago. Used to be triggered by an air hose that when driven over (or stepped on 😂) would signal the attendant that a customer had arrived and needed gas, check oil and tire pressure and finish off this a windshield wash. If paying with a credit card they would require your signature along with your license plate number. It was $.32 a gallon so that was at least a 2-3$ visit.
Good memory,,,,, That’s where I heard that Ding before,,, many moons ago !
As a kid I loved to jump on that hose thingy to hear the 'ding'. If it didn't 'ding' I jumped harder! 😊
Not only remember that but I was the one performing the services. Washed so many windshields that now I cringe when I have to clean mine! LOL!
@@MikeyDee25 So, YOU'RE the kid I used to have to chase away!!!
Hated those credit card slides... And at least once in awhile a cash pay would ring up $2.85 and give you $3 and tell you to keep the change!
Of course, minimum wage was $1.60/ hr...
I know when I did my 99 Suburban's oil pan, I changed the pump in it, 230K miles, figured it deserved it, I did use a high volume pump for it since that engine does suffer from piston slap on cold starts, figured more oil being pumped threw the engine wouldn't hurt I use to idle at 15ish psi warm to idle at 40psi warm, plus it was easy on my truck.
How the heck you keep track of all the bolts you remove baffles me! I wish I had access to a mechanic as good as you are where I live.
Those sump bolts had that apprentice torque on them. You know, the fresh fish who goes by manufacturer suggested pounding with the foot.
I didn't see why the customer wanted a new oil pump but if he had an inside gauge and noticed it was a little low he might be disappointed with his high volume oil pump. High volume does not mean high pressure. The high volume pumps have a relatively low pressure dump valve, so pressure may even be lower than the old pump. Ask me how I know.
Over at Auto Zone. "Ray just called in." "WHAT? Oh no, did we get in that pallet of Brake Cleaner yet? You know his standing order is 4 cases every time he calls."
Yeah the feeler gauge alignment on the oil pump. Not a major issue though, those 4 bolts can't really move all that much.
I'm totally amazed how much has changed since I worked on cars in my earlier days. It was much simpler before the engineers got involved. It was a simple procedure. You didn't have to take the motor apart ti change the oil pump.
True but back in the days cars were falling apart at 100k miles and got 4mpg lol
I agree to a point! Speaking on GM thinking: the old oil pump was driven by the camshaft, with a gear pump, which turns 1/2 the speed of the crank! The new / now way is a “ vane” pump driven off crank speed ! Downside, Vane pumps cannot be “ abused “ like a gear pump! A little dirt, chews them up ! No $30.00 oil changes, toilet paper $1.00 oil filter equals,,, massive destruction! Have a great day !
I had a ‘70 Chrysler 440. It had the oil pump on the outside of the block. I always thought that was a great design. The distributor was on the front of the block at a hard angle so the shaft lined up to drive the oil pump.
"before the engineers got involved." Umm, buddy, engineers have ALWAYS been involved. It's more like when the bean counters took total control of design and production that there was no longer time to design cars to both run well and be serviced easily.
@@fredwalker839 Some are vane type, some are gerotor type.
If you're wondering what I'm rabbiting on about, if you think about car parts, then as an example, the battery is unconnected from the radiator. Having no direct link with each other. In personal terms, strangers are unconnected people, whereas people who were once friends but are no longer, then they have become disconnected. Everything has a meaning Ray my man.
@26:40 It looks like the top sprocket is still off about one tooth to the right, but it could just be the camera angle. The (top) cam sprocket arrow was pointing to the left of the hole @23:06 and now it points to the center @27:10. I did not know if that one tooth would make a difference in final timings? Thanks for the videos Ray, I enjoy all of them!
A little oil on the new chain and tensioner wouldn't have gone amiss before closing the cover
I always rotate the engine 720° and recheck my timing marks. It's much more important to do this with DOHC. though.
don't feel the need to prime the new oil pump? I've had people put brand new, above the oil level style pumps and found them air bound, unable to lift the oil up out of the pan when dry. My fix is to feed pressurized oil into the system from above (usually at the oil sending unit port or similar) and rotate the engine backwards to draw oil into the pump from the outlet side. Then it works fine after that. I always fill the pump with oil in my hand before installing it.
fuel pump relay out, crank for several seconds.
That was a smooth move avoiding the Exxon Valdez when the oil exited the pan.
Wow, someone is spending some money on this ride, I like it. Not sure how much a new water pump is, or how old that one is, but if I had it off anyway and it was old, I would have replaced it. Great video, thanks for the content.
I will usually go ahead and replace it whenever i take it off to do anything
@@jameshedrick605 , yeah, I’m the same way. It can get expensive though. Went in to get mud tires on a little 2000 Dakota quad cab 4x4 when I was working in Georgia back in 2017. Ended up replacing rear leaf springs, hangers, tie rod ends, shocks on front and rear, rubber bed mounts, axle shafts, transmission pan and service, rear diff service, basically everything under the truck, to the tune of about 6 or 8 grand. My dad still drives it around.
Without looking it up to confirm, I believe the timing marks should be crank dot to the top and cam dot on the bottom.
This thing wont run in the position he put it.
@@hiddenman99 sure it will. 2 to 1, Just as long as he sets the mark at the top or bottom of the cam gear and the crank gears mark is at the top. Simpler lining them up where the dots or marks are together.
Put it back in the same orientation as you removed it, everything will be fine. I prefer have the marks next to each other, but everyone is different
@@chrisfeik1248 yes it will work as he did it . I’m just concerned that if someone following this video might get into trouble. Also as a factory trained tech I was always taught to put engine repairs back to spec. What if the cam shifts a bit and he misses the timing by a tooth or even two? It will still run then also but won’t have good performance and may cause early engine failure if operated that way for long. All that needed to be done was to turn the crankshaft another 360 degrees and the marks would have been aligned
@@hiddenman99 it will run as long as he doesn’t change the orientation of the gears but it is easier to place the timing marks together to ensure that the timing is correct. The way it was done makes it easier to get it a tooth off.
Changing the O ring on the oil pick up makes big difference on oil pressure… the inside of this engine seems really dirty
I am amazed at how you go about working on these newer cars. I think I would throw up by the nightmare lack of engineering. In the day, I could have my engine out and on the stand in an hour and a half flat. I give you kudos and wish you were here in California but I don't think you dumb enough to move here. Dale
Never seen oil pumps go bad accept when engine has started breaking down
Could just be a high mileage engine with some extra bearing clearance, that would drop pressure on a standard pump. He mentioned the replacement pump is a high volume style, possibly to extract as much mileage out of it as possible. I had a 1988 Caprice with a built LM1 350 in it ... when I rebuilt that engine, I used a high volume oil pump but elected to use the standard pressure relief spring to keep pressures normal. That engine came out at 360k miles (drove the piss out of that car), which I did just because I wanted a fresh engine. The hot idle oil pressure was 25psi on it, 40psi at 2000 RPM, all within tolerance ... hot as in Phoenix, AZ summer heat hot, yet when I broke the engine down, there was almost nothing left of the main and rod bearings - all worn into the copper and the crank was toast. That high volume pump I used made up for the extra clearance in the bearings, and I never knew their condition when running the engine.
@@silicon212 Would be nice if the numerous commentators who later questioned on this issue would have read your reply first.
On a very tight squeeze with your fingers to turn a bolt, Find a length of rubber hose to spin it in to catch the threads. 👍
I suspect the person who torqued down those oil pan bolts was the same dude who works at Palmetto State armory attaching barrel nuts.. 🧐
Haynes manual shows Ecotec 4 oil pump down in oil pan, but it's actually in the timing cover/crankshaft driven...
Brake clean sound effect was classic.
I think that you are awesome, I love learning from your videos
Good work Rainman
Always a pleasure Ray.. Keep it up! Learn so much. 👊👊
Every time you say "end of transmission", I expect a picture or clip of a tail housing or output shaft
Har de har & Boom boom !!
It looks like what happened was the customer brought it back complaining of an oil leak to the place that installed it. Then in an attempt to fix it the mechanic just applied more torque.
some people don't appreciate the work you do keep it up
Gravity is my favourite word since watching your videos. Great to watch and relax and learn.
I'm picking up all kinds of words from the channels I'm following. Click and gravity tend to work it's way into my brain from this channel. I think the worst/best comes from AvE though. Uncle B does have a very specialized and flexible vocabulary. And then there's Blondihacks who has a couple of earworms in the simple tapi tap tap and the for me unexplainable Yatzy whenever parting anything on the lathe.
0:00 I recently got moved to night shift temporarily and have no concept of morning or night right now.
Listening to you talk always reminds me of Kevin from KSR performance..
No wasted room in the engine compartment anymore!
vids always make me excited to get back to work!
Ray, you've convinced me to become a mechanic... how could you. 🤭
The oil likely is leaking from the rear main seal housing. I have a customer that we have replaced every gasket on the damn thing.. I've used dye bore scopes mirrors and frustration to find it.
I agree with ya brother,,,,, nobody wants a vehicle to make you look “ like a dummy!” Good luck! Hope you find it, “before” you lose this customer !
The owner of this vehicle seems to be the best kind. Takes care with regular oil changes (that oil is beautiful looking), the engine is clean (especially no Fifel action), if you recommend it being fixed, they defer to your professional judgment.
they dont take good care of the car interior. a previous video shows the inside being a total pile. The vehicle itself is in great shape but the back looks like a hoarders haven
Oh, I noticed some editing or redo for the camera. At 21:23 when you're lining up timing marks, the cam VVT phaser bolt is loose like you removed/loosened it before you lined up the marks. Then at 22:00 it's magically tightened up again and you loosen it up!
you doing a Wonderful job Ray .
Have a great day Ray
I hope u checked rear main seal & plate makes it look like leak is at rear of oil pan good luck
Nice job so far Ray, looking forward to part 2.
Methinks the previous installer of that oil pan used an impact and torqued it down to about 200ft lbs😲😲
God knows why it’s so therapeutic watching this… but it is. Been a few years since I did this in the army (UK Royal Engineers).
I thought it was common courtesy to have the interior of your car in "decent" shape before dropping it off at the shop.... Ray's videos have shown me that I am in the minority!!!
Just had my work van for a MOT or state inspection or what you wanna call it, yearly inspection. I didn't have time to clean it thoroughly but did at least clean out the front seat that I use as my office with laptop and papers and also tidying a bit on the floor
did we forget to tighten the timing guide Bolt on your left side? See a bunch of shiney threads
These engines have always been gravey to do timing and oil pumps on @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I thought it was interesting on the side, the pan, was leaking the bolts didn't want to come loose (too tight).. The side that wasn't leaking, bolts came out as expected.
I could watch you unscrewed stuff all day😅🎉
I am amazed that pan wasn't cracked from the 250 or so foot pounds of torque the bolts had...I would have put a torque wrench on it and saw about what were over tightened to. We heard the soft clicks too:-) I just hope that p/s line the last guy tweaked pulling the pan doesn't become an issue when that area is buttoned back up. I love your content...variety is a great thing:-) Keep 'em coming Ray:-)
that timing cover needs to be aligned properly with an alignment tool around the crank and preferablya straightedge along the bottom of the block. otherwise could cause the crank seal to leak or even the oil pan gasket
You can center it with the harmonic balancer at least.
Those mini pry bars come in handy