I just replaced all ball joints on my 2WD this weekend. If you’re considering it save yourself the headaches I had and get TOYOTA parts from a dealer. I purchased all Delphi parts and the uppers needed about 1/2” of metal shaved off of the mounting area to get them to fit in the control arm. The lowers were fine at least. You will also need new tie rod ends since you cannot reuse any kind of ball joint! I also recommend anyone doing this to get new Timken bearings, races, hub seals, and grease. OEM is Timken and it takes only an extra 30 minutes to get the hub off, clean it up, pound out the races with a steel punch, seat new ones with a $20 bearing press kit, pack em with grease and put it back on the spindle. Also don’t bother trying to get new hubs unless you get them directly from Toyota. Any aftermarket hub that says it fits a first gen 2WD is wrong. Make sure you have a new metal outer hub seal/cap. The previous owner didn’t have it installed on one side and the bearing failed catastrophically. A 2-1/2” PVC coupler worked great to hammer on the new outer cap. Also if your brake rotors are looking a little rough, replace them when you do the bearings. The rotors have to be replaced with the hub off the spindle so might as well knock that out too. Also unrelated but I changed out the clutch hydraulics and soft hose on mine with 180K on it. Chocolate pudding came out of the bottom of the master cylinder. New AISIN (Toyota OEM) cylinders are on amazon for $80. If you have high mileage it’s a good idea to replace these so you’re not stranded with a dead clutch pedal. It was a pretty easy job, just tedious to get the soft hose body clips off.
It’s definitely a fairly easy job with some simple tools! Just give yourself a full day to mess around and make sure you have all you need before you start. Good luck!
Great video, and nice camera angles! I have a 2004 PreRunner with 140k miles (original owner), so I'm due for this service. I feel much better about tackling this after watching your video. I wondered about that squarish boot covering the ball joint (noticed it last night when checking it out). I just bought a '98 4Runner (already had the LBJs replaced 👍), and it doesn't have that boot, so it must have been added in the last couple of years on the 1st Gen Tacomas. Thanks!
I think it will be easier if you put the new ball joint on the wheel hub with the 4 bolts on first(doesn't have to be tighten yet), then you can install the castle nut on the ball joint at the lower control arm, you don't have to move the wheel hub around trying to line up 1 of the 4 bolts.
I just did this on my 2WD and it was a nightmare lining up the sleeves to the holes on the knuckle with the ball joint in place. On the other side I attached the ball joint assembly to the knuckle then mounted the ball joint stud to the control arm. MUCH easier.
Just saw this on the Toyota forums I'm thinking of attempting it myself i never done something like this but i feel like it would cost me less getting done at a shop. Thank You!
If you have the tools and time, it’s fairly straightforward. That is unless your truck is an East coast rig or has a fair amount of rust. Can quickly turn into a nightmare at that point lol.
@pnwxplore I have an east coast '96. It's not too bad on the rust, but, do you think I need to pre game the job with a little PB Blaster? I really don't want to run into trouble.
Great video, really well shot and explained. I have a 98 Toyota Prado I imported from Japan 6 years ago with the same LBJ concerns. I check them every few months and there’s zero play - but with all the horror stories/photos you see online, it’s tempting to swap them out with new ones just because! Anyhow, really enjoying your channel! 🍻
Thank you! It’s cheap insurance to pop them out and out new ones in. By the time they have play, that’s really too late. Glad you are enjoying the content!
Thanks brotha! Installed mine in a couple hours! (Used the hammer method for popping out the tie rod ends and ball joints) luckily only took a few good hammer swings for each one. This video is the best out there so far 🙌🏼
Your tutorials make maintenance and upgrades seem very feasible. You've inspired me to start working on my truck myself more! Especially since I just gave the mechanic a bunch of money to replace the lower and upper control arms, but they didn't bother with the lower ball joints. I didn't even realize they needed to be replaced ever 100k miles. Might have to do this before the projector retrofit...
Yup, easy job. The only flawed part about these joints is their orientation. The ball joints should be inverted so that way if it fails your whole lower A arm doesn’t separate immediately
Fantastic Video!! Your is the most detailed with the best angles to see everything. Thank You So So Much!! One question, would it be wise to chang the upper ball joint at the same time? Everything is up, open, & apart anyway?
Thank you! I would say any time you can afford to replace more things while you are already in and doing some of the work, the better. It’s like replacing a water pump while doing a timing belt, already in there, might as well take care of it.
Great in detail video, I've an '03 Tacoma TRD Offroad with 406,000 miles. I'll be replacing LBJ's in this next week. Thanks What is the name of the Topper on the back of your tacoma ? Does it lift straight up or V shape ? Very interesting !!
Thanks man! The camper is home built (I have videos on my channel here of it). It’s a wedge style pop up camper. @Ripcord on Instagram has the build sheet and plans for it for a 2nd Gen Tacoma, I modified the dimensions to fit the 1st Gen and my needs.
Awesome tutorial, am going to replace my tie rod and ball joints. Did you first check if your rims had any loose play. That’s also a good check to indicate if your tie rods needs replacement. Thanks again..
Great video. Super thorough and great lighting/camera angles. Any reason you didn't do the tie rod ends at the same time? or were they changed more recently? Same question on the upper ball joints? Do they have a longer interval before changing? Thanks!
Few reasons I didn’t change them, the largest being time until a trip I had planned. Changing the tie rods requires an alignment and I didn’t have time for that. I will however be doing all those here soon as I am upgrading some stuff
@@pnwxplore Gotcha. I'm a big fan of self-alignment using measuring tapes or boards or one of the cheap tools you can buy I've had great success. For something like tie rod ends that only effects toe it's pretty easy to get it into spec yourself just fyi.
@@pnwxplore thank you for this as well. Im a beginner DIY mech, and i did do the tie rods and the sway bar bushings? and my alignment is hella off. thanks for the video it was easy to follow.
The Ball Joint separator tool I think would have worked if you had removed the castle nut and given the tool access directly to the top of the ball joint post.
@dcppcp Yeah, when the OP was trying to "fit" the separator I was YELLING at my COMPUTER SCREEN... LOL 😅😂🤣... that you need to remove the whole castle nut. EXTREMELY well made video though and very HIGH props to the OP. Me personally, I would use Blue Loctite instead of the Red Loctite. Blue will also handle, well enough, any vibrational looseness to said bolt and/or nut, whichever applies. In either case, if using Red, DO NOT drown the damn bolt with Red Loctite!!! I'm not saying the OP did it here, which is very good. What I'm getting at is that I saw a different video and the guy just GOOPED on the Red Loctite... I mean A LOT OF IT!!! I was like HOLY SH** DUDE???!!! You only need a little bit. The same goes for "EZ Break" (a.k.a. anti seize) on lug nut bolts, for example. For anyone reading this, if you put on too much anti seize on lug bolts, you will actually "over torque" the lug nut and very likely snap the lug bolt and/or WEAKEN the hell outta of it due to over-shearing stress on the bolt!!! Annnnnnyways, VERY WELL MADE VIDEO!!! 😉👍
Did you have to get a front end alignment afterwards? I need to assess my inner tie rods and I think the only way is to disconnect the outer tie rod but that shouldn't mess up the alignment right.
You don’t need one as you aren’t changing anything. If you change anything on the torrid such as unscrewing it yes, but pupping it off the lower ball joint and reinstalling it to do the LBJ doesn’t mess with alignment
I’m no impact expert and never had one before. With that said, it’s been great. No issues and I use it to change the wheels in the winter on the wife’s car and back again in the spring. Good to have on hand
@@pnwxplore Cool, thanks. I have some other Ryobi tools so already have the batteries which is why I ask. I have a corded impact but would be nice to have the cordless. Thanks for the video, I found it super helpful.
Hi, I was wondering where you got the 37ft/lbs from for the 4 bolts. It looks like the Toyota specifies 59ft/lb for those four bolts in the FSM. However, from my research, it looks like 37ft/lbs might be correct.
@@pnwxplore Did the bolts ever move on you? I suspect that you actually did it right where most people did it wrong by following the FSM. Actually, if you want to get technical, Lowrangeoffroad actually did it wrong where as you did it right. The bolts that they took off I believe calls for 37ft/lbs but they ended up putting on different bolts that calls for 59ft/lbs. You took off the bolts and replaced with bolts that calls for 37ft/lbs so that should be right. See article below. www.mighty90s.com/forums/discussion/89/the-different-lbj-bolts-and-why-its-important-prado-90-series
I noticed in the 4 small bolts I took out 2 are longer and 2 shorter.. I believe the longer ones go in the front holes but can anyone confirm before I go slapping this thing back together?
I still think it would be better to spend the money and buy a ball joint remover tool. Then pounding on the metal it’s gotta be changing the shape of the hole 🕳️. I know it’s been done for years like this but I think there has to be a better way.
You have to torch the bolt heads for red thread locker. Blue thread locker may work. You have to check the temp rating. The blue is for vibration and not for high heat applications. I would use Blue myself.
Essentially everyone who is familiar with 1st Gen tacomas and 4 runners that use the same LBJ style. The design of these was flawed and that’s why they need to be inspected or replaced more often as the failure mode is much worse than other generations of Toyota trucks
Yea go oem i did em all cheap aftermarket and they blew in less than a month and now ive been too lazy to put the oem for months lol do have a 2 inch lift on 33” though but honestly it isnt worth redoing the whole job in a couple months
I just replaced all ball joints on my 2WD this weekend. If you’re considering it save yourself the headaches I had and get TOYOTA parts from a dealer. I purchased all Delphi parts and the uppers needed about 1/2” of metal shaved off of the mounting area to get them to fit in the control arm. The lowers were fine at least. You will also need new tie rod ends since you cannot reuse any kind of ball joint!
I also recommend anyone doing this to get new Timken bearings, races, hub seals, and grease. OEM is Timken and it takes only an extra 30 minutes to get the hub off, clean it up, pound out the races with a steel punch, seat new ones with a $20 bearing press kit, pack em with grease and put it back on the spindle. Also don’t bother trying to get new hubs unless you get them directly from Toyota. Any aftermarket hub that says it fits a first gen 2WD is wrong. Make sure you have a new metal outer hub seal/cap. The previous owner didn’t have it installed on one side and the bearing failed catastrophically. A 2-1/2” PVC coupler worked great to hammer on the new outer cap.
Also if your brake rotors are looking a little rough, replace them when you do the bearings. The rotors have to be replaced with the hub off the spindle so might as well knock that out too.
Also unrelated but I changed out the clutch hydraulics and soft hose on mine with 180K on it. Chocolate pudding came out of the bottom of the master cylinder. New AISIN (Toyota OEM) cylinders are on amazon for $80. If you have high mileage it’s a good idea to replace these so you’re not stranded with a dead clutch pedal. It was a pretty easy job, just tedious to get the soft hose body clips off.
Bookmarking this! Just got an estimate to replace the lowers on my '98. It was over $900! No thanks. I appreciate this video.
It’s definitely a fairly easy job with some simple tools! Just give yourself a full day to mess around and make sure you have all you need before you start. Good luck!
@@pnwxplore Thanks again. Where did you put your jack stand? Looks like just a few inches inside where you put the jack?
Yeah just as near to the Jack as possible on the frame
It can be even more than 900$ now... 1500$?
@efil4kizum did you do yours yet?
Great video, and nice camera angles! I have a 2004 PreRunner with 140k miles (original owner), so I'm due for this service. I feel much better about tackling this after watching your video. I wondered about that squarish boot covering the ball joint (noticed it last night when checking it out). I just bought a '98 4Runner (already had the LBJs replaced 👍), and it doesn't have that boot, so it must have been added in the last couple of years on the 1st Gen Tacomas. Thanks!
Great job on this how to video. The chaptering is a really nice reference to run through the step-by-step.
Thank you for great how to video. Ran through your video several times. Better than others. You made it easy!
Thanks man! Glad it was helpful!
I think it will be easier if you put the new ball joint on the wheel hub with the 4 bolts on first(doesn't have to be tighten yet), then you can install the castle nut on the ball joint at the lower control arm, you don't have to move the wheel hub around trying to line up 1 of the 4 bolts.
They actually have little sleeves that stick out from the two back bolts if you put those in first it lines up the 4 bolts really easy.
I just did this on my 2WD and it was a nightmare lining up the sleeves to the holes on the knuckle with the ball joint in place. On the other side I attached the ball joint assembly to the knuckle then mounted the ball joint stud to the control arm. MUCH easier.
Awesome job! Very clearly done and appreciate the lbs. ft. Per torque as well as the red thread lock.
Glad it was helpful!
Just saw this on the Toyota forums I'm thinking of attempting it myself i never done something like this but i feel like it would cost me less getting done at a shop. Thank You!
If you have the tools and time, it’s fairly straightforward. That is unless your truck is an East coast rig or has a fair amount of rust. Can quickly turn into a nightmare at that point lol.
Many pro shops this is a 1000$ task and many do Not use OEM parts if not a YOTA dealershop
@pnwxplore I have an east coast '96. It's not too bad on the rust, but, do you think I need to pre game the job with a little PB Blaster? I really don't want to run into trouble.
@@WookieLove1 PBblaster if you can take the smell lol.. or try some KROIL product? i use NUTz-Lube from Canada to loosen tight nuts
This video answered all my questions! Thanks for posting this! I was scared to give this a try, now I’m confident
Awesome! Glad I could help!
Great video, really well shot and explained. I have a 98 Toyota Prado I imported from Japan 6 years ago with the same LBJ concerns. I check them every few months and there’s zero play - but with all the horror stories/photos you see online, it’s tempting to swap them out with new ones just because! Anyhow, really enjoying your channel! 🍻
Thank you! It’s cheap insurance to pop them out and out new ones in. By the time they have play, that’s really too late. Glad you are enjoying the content!
Excellent video. You are a Gr8 teacher. Have to change mine on my 01 Taco. You have encourage me to do it myself😁
It’s super easy, you got it!
Today I finished driver side owing to your instruction. Thank you.
That’s awesome! Glad it was helpful.
@@pnwxplore I wish you could show me how to do the upper one.
Brooo thanks for this. Super helpful! Watched countless of videos on lbj but yours was the best!
Thanks man! Glad you found it helpful!
Thanks brotha! Installed mine in a couple hours! (Used the hammer method for popping out the tie rod ends and ball joints) luckily only took a few good hammer swings for each one. This video is the best out there so far 🙌🏼
Awesome man, glad this was helpful! Thanks for the kind words.
Awesome write up and camera angles. Thanks man!
Welcome!
well, ill say this, when they stop manufacturing new lower ball joints for our rigs i guess im just going to have to solid axle swap. great video!
Great video and to the point. Your video really makes self installation easier. Thanks!
Woo! Glad I could help.
Your tutorials make maintenance and upgrades seem very feasible. You've inspired me to start working on my truck myself more! Especially since I just gave the mechanic a bunch of money to replace the lower and upper control arms, but they didn't bother with the lower ball joints. I didn't even realize they needed to be replaced ever 100k miles. Might have to do this before the projector retrofit...
Glad I can be helpful! This is a pretty easy task if you have the tools! Def get them LBJs replaced if you are over 100k miles and doing off roading.
@@pnwxplore do you have a recommendation for where you order OEM parts?
I ordered mine from toyotapartsdeal.com
Perfect tutorial thank you just swapped mine
Great communication. Exactly what I needed.
Awesome! Glad you found it helpful.
Very simple job. Toyota engineering seems quite good.
Yup, easy job. The only flawed part about these joints is their orientation. The ball joints should be inverted so that way if it fails your whole lower A arm doesn’t separate immediately
Thanks for the info it will definitely help me when I do mine
Happy to help!
Dude 😎 I thought it was hard ! Hahah you are awesome 👏 I will go ahead and do it 😄
Fantastic Video!! Your is the most detailed with the best angles to see everything. Thank You So So Much!! One question, would it be wise to chang the upper ball joint at the same time? Everything is up, open, & apart anyway?
Thank you! I would say any time you can afford to replace more things while you are already in and doing some of the work, the better. It’s like replacing a water pump while doing a timing belt, already in there, might as well take care of it.
Great video! Gonns give it a shot on my 99 once I get the time before I install my lift
You did a fantastic job with this video. Thank you!
Thank you!
Thank you for this boost of confidence.
No problem man!
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing.
Good work man! 2002 tundra with 220k and still on originals... changing asap
Dang! Yeah get them buddies changed!
Torque spec is 37 lbs is for 90119-10933 black bolts. All the others are 59 ft lbs.
Great in detail video, I've an '03 Tacoma TRD Offroad with 406,000 miles. I'll be replacing LBJ's in this next week. Thanks What is the name of the Topper on the back of your tacoma ? Does it lift straight up or V shape ? Very interesting !!
Thanks man!
The camper is home built (I have videos on my channel here of it). It’s a wedge style pop up camper. @Ripcord on Instagram has the build sheet and plans for it for a 2nd Gen Tacoma, I modified the dimensions to fit the 1st Gen and my needs.
Can you provide the part number or link of the arm puller you used? Also, any reason you couldn’t use that to separate the toe rod joint as well?
perfect tutorial. thank you brotha
I have 4inch spacers in my suspension, so it took 2 friends & I with a 2x4 piece of wood to pull the hub low enough to get that castle nut on lol
Oof! Yeah that would certainly add to the challenge. I only had a 2” lift
Great instructions. Thanks!
Awesome tutorial, am going to replace my tie rod and ball joints.
Did you first check if your rims had any loose play. That’s also a good check to indicate if your tie rods needs replacement.
Thanks again..
No play on my stuff
Great video. Super thorough and great lighting/camera angles.
Any reason you didn't do the tie rod ends at the same time? or were they changed more recently?
Same question on the upper ball joints? Do they have a longer interval before changing?
Thanks!
Few reasons I didn’t change them, the largest being time until a trip I had planned. Changing the tie rods requires an alignment and I didn’t have time for that. I will however be doing all those here soon as I am upgrading some stuff
@@pnwxplore Gotcha. I'm a big fan of self-alignment using measuring tapes or boards or one of the cheap tools you can buy I've had great success. For something like tie rod ends that only effects toe it's pretty easy to get it into spec yourself just fyi.
@@pnwxplore thank you for this as well. Im a beginner DIY mech, and i did do the tie rods and the sway bar bushings? and my alignment is hella off. thanks for the video it was easy to follow.
The Ball Joint separator tool I think would have worked if you had removed the castle nut and given the tool access directly to the top of the ball joint post.
Didn’t think of that!
@dcppcp Yeah, when the OP was trying to "fit" the separator I was YELLING at my COMPUTER SCREEN... LOL 😅😂🤣... that you need to remove the whole castle nut.
EXTREMELY well made video though and very HIGH props to the OP.
Me personally, I would use Blue Loctite instead of the Red Loctite. Blue will also handle, well enough, any vibrational looseness to said bolt and/or nut, whichever applies. In either case, if using Red, DO NOT drown the damn bolt with Red Loctite!!! I'm not saying the OP did it here, which is very good. What I'm getting at is that I saw a different video and the guy just GOOPED on the Red Loctite... I mean A LOT OF IT!!! I was like HOLY SH** DUDE???!!! You only need a little bit. The same goes for "EZ Break" (a.k.a. anti seize) on lug nut bolts, for example. For anyone reading this, if you put on too much anti seize on lug bolts, you will actually "over torque" the lug nut and very likely snap the lug bolt and/or WEAKEN the hell outta of it due to over-shearing stress on the bolt!!!
Annnnnnyways, VERY WELL MADE VIDEO!!! 😉👍
Wouldn’t the pitman arm puller have worked here also?
This helped a lot thanks
thank you for sharing.
So legit. Thank you🙏
Welcome!
Did you have to get a front end alignment afterwards? I need to assess my inner tie rods and I think the only way is to disconnect the outer tie rod but that shouldn't mess up the alignment right.
You don’t need one as you aren’t changing anything. If you change anything on the torrid such as unscrewing it yes, but pupping it off the lower ball joint and reinstalling it to do the LBJ doesn’t mess with alignment
That’s the part number for the Oem parts of link please and thank you
what did he torque the mounting bolts to on the lower ball joint bracket 103 as well? i didnt hear him say it
Great video 👍
Thanks!
Nice Ryobi
Great job.
You video was awesome. But is the process the same for a 2000 tacoma your video says 2001 to 2004 just wondering if anything changed.
I’m sorry, I am not sure
My tue rid is from top to bottom castle nut on bottom ? Urs is on top ? I have a 03 Tacoma 2.4
How do you like that Ryobi impact? Any issues with it?
I’m no impact expert and never had one before. With that said, it’s been great. No issues and I use it to change the wheels in the winter on the wife’s car and back again in the spring. Good to have on hand
@@pnwxplore Cool, thanks. I have some other Ryobi tools so already have the batteries which is why I ask. I have a corded impact but would be nice to have the cordless.
Thanks for the video, I found it super helpful.
@@nickd1978 if you already have Ryobi, then def pick it up. Mine is the 3 spd. Glad the video was helpful!
Nice tdub!
Will you ever share the model number of the Ryobi impact wrench pleaseeeeeeee
My 04 is at 70k you think I should replace them I do take it hunting and haul firewood ,it does not have any play while pushing wheel for checking
If you do lots of bumpy, off-road style driving you should replaced them every 50k with Toyota parts never aftermarket parts.
what bumper is that?
What bolts do you buy for the 4
Hi, I was wondering where you got the 37ft/lbs from for the 4 bolts. It looks like the Toyota specifies 59ft/lb for those four bolts in the FSM. However, from my research, it looks like 37ft/lbs might be correct.
I didn’t have an FSM but Low Range Offroad has a video with the torque specs and that’s what I followed
@@pnwxplore Did the bolts ever move on you? I suspect that you actually did it right where most people did it wrong by following the FSM.
Actually, if you want to get technical, Lowrangeoffroad actually did it wrong where as you did it right. The bolts that they took off I believe calls for 37ft/lbs but they ended up putting on different bolts that calls for 59ft/lbs.
You took off the bolts and replaced with bolts that calls for 37ft/lbs so that should be right. See article below.
www.mighty90s.com/forums/discussion/89/the-different-lbj-bolts-and-why-its-important-prado-90-series
I haven’t had anything move that I am aware of. But I should check. My Haynes manual states 43ft-lbs lol
@@pnwxplore lol sounds like they are trying to split the difference.
Looking at that article, my parts numbers line up with needing 40ft lbs. the bolts I ordered are 90119-10933
Having trouble getting the tie rod off how long did it take you?
Only a few minutes. Came off pretty easy
Are you of the opinion to replace the dust covers on the 04 Tacoma lower ball joint?
Only if they are torn or look super worn.
The dealer is saying don't worry about the dust cover??@@pnwxplore
covers were in great shape when the truck went in for B. joint replacement
The tools you use to pop the ball joint out who makes it where did you buy and what size is it
Pitman arm puller from harbor freight
Where did you get the pitman arm puller from?
Harbor freight
@@pnwxplore awesome! Thanks so much man
No prob!
Is it possible to replace the lower control arm without replacing the Lower Ball joints ?
Yes
Can i have part numbers for bolts?
Where did you buy LBJs?
Is this the same process for a 98?
Will this work on a 96 tacoma ?
@bootboy710 did you do your 96?
Where u get those oem rims? What year tacoma
They are 3rd gen Tacoma wheels. They actually came on the truck when I bought it
Is it the same for the base model?
Yeah should be. There is no difference in the suspension
I noticed in the 4 small bolts I took out 2 are longer and 2 shorter.. I believe the longer ones go in the front holes but can anyone confirm before I go slapping this thing back together?
Did you get an answer?
I still think it would be better to spend the money and buy a ball joint remover tool.
Then pounding on the metal it’s gotta be changing the shape of the hole 🕳️.
I know it’s been done for years like this but I think there has to be a better way.
Hitting it with a hammer is fine. If the hammer was enough to damage it, what do you think 100k+ miles of driving would do to it?
Part number please?
Isn't Red loctite permanent?
No, just more difficult to break loose
You have to torch the bolt heads for red thread locker. Blue thread locker may work. You have to check the temp rating. The blue is for vibration and not for high heat applications. I would use Blue myself.
My friend to much bla bla bla. Straight to the point.
who says every 100k miles? not everyone needs to do that so soon!? unless you are using afterMarket LBJs?
Essentially everyone who is familiar with 1st Gen tacomas and 4 runners that use the same LBJ style. The design of these was flawed and that’s why they need to be inspected or replaced more often as the failure mode is much worse than other generations of Toyota trucks
@@pnwxplore Not trying to be a smart Alec but if they have a design flaw why would you want to replace them with oem ball joint?
What if you can't afford OEM lol
You get what you pay for. Sankei 555 and are other decent brands, but overall life is likely going to be shorter
Yea go oem i did em all cheap aftermarket and they blew in less than a month and now ive been too lazy to put the oem for months lol do have a 2 inch lift on 33” though but honestly it isnt worth redoing the whole job in a couple months
Hope i don’t mess it up lol
What 😱do you let your wife in the garage to. lol
Just kidding. Happy wife happy life.
I have no faith in myself to do this job
37lbs
Red not removable use Blue
When your ryobi impact stalls taking lug nuts off lol
When you make a douchey comment on someone’s video to make yourself feel better
Can you provide the part number or link of the arm puller you used? Also, any reason you couldn’t use that to separate the toe rod joint as well?