We had a few mess ups on this video. The valve springs you should use in this build would be 65lbs from go power sports. Also do not oil the bearings before placing them into the rod as this can make you spin a bearing. Thanks for watching!
This is an excellent how to video. Forget the kids, it makes me want to build something me....hahaha. Can't wait to see this monster in action! How about little red kart 2.0 ? Too much motor? This motor with a Duster 94C/90D set up would be scary fast. I think 3.5:1 ~ .78 overdrive. With a 5:1 final drive you could still get 60mph top end and have stump pulling hole shots too.
If you took the rotating assembly to a machine shop that does balancing and have the crank flywheel rod and piston balanced you could get more rpm out of them without disintegrating and a trick to keep valves from floating is go to a hardware store find a spring that would be just a bit more than the tappet in closed position use a washer against the block to prevent spring wear on the block this trick will get you more rpm before you reach valve train limit.
great video, I have a small tip when you put the valve keepers in the valve spring retainer, if you put a small dab of grease inside the keeper it helps stick them to the valve holding them in place until you get the other one in and gives you time to make sure they are in the right spot before you back out the spring compressor. I hope it helps keep up the great work!
Amazing vid,kids these days dont know how good they have it.............I'm not that old but we had to figure this stuff out on our own when I was doing it.
I liked this build. What I would like to see is someone take the time to do a progressive build on a 420 cc predator. First Dyno a bone stock engine. Record power at all rpms and length of time to reach full speed etc. Then as you make performance changes re-dyno the engine at every change recording the same categories as the first Dyno. That way we could see which improvements would give us more bang for the buck. I know it would be a tedious job and time consuming. I am sure many of your viewer's would be interested in knowing the same thing as me. I realize you are probably strapped for time, though.
we used a neat trick to remove and install bearings in aluminium carters we used an electric stoveplate and layed the carter up on it with the bearings down and heated it up until a spit finger sizles on the carter get youre gloves and take the carter of the plate and drop it slam it down from a foot or so on the table , that should drop the old bearings out when there out turn the carter over while its still hot and drop the new bearings in the still expanded aluminium holes works great and doesnt hurt the bearings or the carter , just need to be careful theres no plastic stuff in the to heat up part like the ignition or oilpump gear allso after remounting the valvespring keepers , tap the valves a few times with a hammer , if the keepers arent seated they come up and you can reseat them , if you not do this the engen might drop a valve instead
Never put oil on the rod before installing the bearings. This can reduce oil clearance on the crank journal. Rod should be wiped clean bearing installed and then assembly lube put on bearing on the side that goes towards the crank journal
I would do the crank / flywheel lapping and the web removal before I assembled anything and after I did those I would flush and lube everything thoroughly before assembling anything. Also, I've assembled many, many engines and I've never put oil on a rod before I installed the bearings. Makes no sense to have something between the rod and the bearing. It will throw your rod bearing clearances off.
Never in a million years would I have imagined the time, effort, and money that could be invested in one of these little engines..... Not my flavor, but dang impressive.
I will probably never get to do this kind of tear down and build, but I still watched the whole video. Great job. Your video should be required watching before posting a "how to" video. Very clear, concise and interesting. Now where did my ex-girlfriend hide that Predator motor I had in the workshop.
Crap Mr. Beard! The least you could have done is let us listen to it run lol. Nice build there RB. Very informative and professional. I like working with ANY motor but the small ones always peaks my interest. I ran a 44mm MickyRooney (Mikuni) years ago on my 1948 H-D Panhead..nice carb! I am now looking at a circa 1964 Briggs 5 h.p. from a Simplicity Snowblower that was my Grandad's back in '64 lol. It started to get tired about 20 yrs ago so my bro and I kind of refreshed it. New valves,a set of rings,light hone and a breakerless ignition. It runs well,just needs something to be bolted up to! That chasis on the '64 Simplicity is made out of pure steel and ways a friggin ton! Keep up the good work man!!
That cutaway clip at 14:10 got me. Sub'd and everything. Amazing detail and info red beard. You are a TH-cam hero for me and my little brother. We've been binge watching for a few hours.
Great detailed video. Was a little unsure about using valve lapping paste that close to a crank seal. However changing a crank seal looks a hell of a lot easier than changing the starter motor.
+Red Beard's Garage i saw a comment response where you said you would make a " Mikuni carburetor tuning" video.. has that not happened yet? or was I late to that party haha..Thanx
Finally figured out the Patreon site! Took forever( probably cause I'm old). Left a comment today on yesterday's live stream video, but I did get to see most of it last nite. Packing to move so didn't get to see it all.
NEVER lubricate the backside of bearing shells or rod. Always only apply assembly lube to outer (crankshaft contact) side of shell type bearings. If you dont have a clean oil free rod to bearing contact the shell may shift. Causing a spun bearing. Atleast thats how it works with car engines.
looking good my man. love to see you hook up with a motorbike dyno shop and do some in depth videos on carb tuning/timing etc. as I'm sure it could greatly help a lot of your subscribers. Just a thought!
+Red Beard's Garage oh I forget sometimes you are living in a relatively small town! maybe if you can't find a dyno some tuning with a home made O2 sensor can be just as productive and gives an awesome understanding of what's happening with your fuel/air adjustments!
Very informational !! But when breaking a engine in you need to use a straight weight non detergent oil like napa non detergent 30 . If you run a multi viscosity oil they all have a tone of detergent and it don’t matter how much zink you put in there with a high detergent oil the zink won’t stick to anything except the detergent molecules . Also you don’t use assembly lube on the rockers or push rod cups? Just wondering
Looks so good! I wish I could afford to build an engine like that. Can't wait to hear it rip! FYI those auto lite plugs only last for a few hours of run time. I have gone through about 5 of them on my predator.
Beautifully presented video! ave has an interesting video on removing bearings such as the balance shaft bearing with greasy rags and a hammer, the procedure has saved me a couple times. Keep up the great content.
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We had a few mess ups on this video. The valve springs you should use in this build would be 65lbs from go power sports. Also do not oil the bearings before placing them into the rod as this can make you spin a bearing. Thanks for watching!
Oh, you caught that. Sorry, I had already posted before reading the posts.
Oh yeah I am posting as I watch. Do not oil the bearings if you are using plastigage. It will give a false reading.
In most areas you can use cam lube or high temp bearing grease for initial breakin lube.
This is an excellent how to video. Forget the kids, it makes me want to build something me....hahaha. Can't wait to see this monster in action! How about little red kart 2.0 ? Too much motor? This motor with a Duster 94C/90D set up would be scary fast. I think 3.5:1 ~ .78 overdrive. With a 5:1 final drive you could still get 60mph top end and have stump pulling hole shots too.
Red Beard's Garage what torque converter can you use on this or honda gx390 ?
All you haters knock it off this guy saves us all a lot of money and time . Thanks Redbeard your a star!
If you took the rotating assembly to a machine shop that does balancing and have the crank flywheel rod and piston balanced you could get more rpm out of them without disintegrating and a trick to keep valves from floating is go to a hardware store find a spring that would be just a bit more than the tappet in closed position use a washer against the block to prevent spring wear on the block this trick will get you more rpm before you reach valve train limit.
I have watched this video so many times and I can never get sick of it
Well thanks man
me to
Rather watch this then Powerblock Episodes. Very detailed and very well put together video.
Thank you brother
Dude I have never seen such a well put together video, The manufacture couldnt have done better A-Plus my friend!!
Thank you for watching sir
That has got to be the BEST video I have seen on this subject!!!! VERY WELL DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks man more to come
Your the best builder I’ve seen on youtube
Well I appreciate that man
I could watch this video over and over and never get tired of it
Red is the Man. Best Videos around closeup and in HD. I learned everything from these Videos. Awesome
Thank you sir
great video, I have a small tip when you put the valve keepers in the valve spring retainer, if you put a small dab of grease inside the keeper it helps stick them to the valve holding them in place until you get the other one in and gives you time to make sure they are in the right spot before you back out the spring compressor. I hope it helps keep up the great work!
Youre doing a great job! Taking you time and oiling everything up instead of bashing that thing together like many others do.
Thumbs up!
That's one beautiful engine! I love the splatter effect on that cover!
Thanks man
Amazing vid,kids these days dont know how good they have it.............I'm not that old but we had to figure this stuff out on our own when I was doing it.
Very few would share what they knew to gain horsepower...
I'm totally blown away , Top shelf build all the way through and a nice attention to detail start to finish................Okie.
+OKIE CHOPPER thank you brother
Dude that cover with the sight glass is freaking sick!!
+ttali211 thanks man
YOur Tutorials are absolutely EPIC!
That blower housing looks awesome with the paint splatters.
i didnt know there was so much development you could put into this engine wow
That is a great video i watch it a thousand times!!!!
Thanks for always watching man
I liked this build. What I would like to see is someone take the time to do a progressive build on a 420 cc predator. First Dyno a bone stock engine. Record power at all rpms and length of time to reach full speed etc. Then as you make performance changes re-dyno the engine at every change recording the same categories as the first Dyno. That way we could see which improvements would give us more bang for the buck. I know it would be a tedious job and time consuming. I am sure many of your viewer's would be interested in knowing the same thing as me. I realize you are probably strapped for time, though.
we used a neat trick to remove and install bearings in aluminium carters
we used an electric stoveplate and layed the carter up on it with the bearings down and heated it up until a spit finger sizles on the carter
get youre gloves and take the carter of the plate and drop it slam it down from a foot or so on the table , that should drop the old bearings out
when there out turn the carter over while its still hot and drop the new bearings in the still expanded aluminium holes
works great and doesnt hurt the bearings or the carter , just need to be careful theres no plastic stuff in the to heat up part like the ignition or oilpump gear
allso after remounting the valvespring keepers , tap the valves a few times with a hammer , if the keepers arent seated they come up and you can reseat them , if you not do this the engen might drop a valve instead
Excellent job dude. Very professional.
Hey bro! Just a tip, do not oil the rod before you place the bearings, you don't want them to spin
Your step by step vids are bar none the best on the tube thanks man
Never put oil on the rod before installing the bearings. This can reduce oil clearance on the crank journal. Rod should be wiped clean bearing installed and then assembly lube put on bearing on the side that goes towards the crank journal
Was just about to post somewhat same comment 👍
Yup Dont do that
I would do the crank / flywheel lapping and the web removal before I assembled anything and after I did those I would flush and lube everything thoroughly before assembling anything.
Also, I've assembled many, many engines and I've never put oil on a rod before I installed the bearings. Makes no sense to have something between the rod and the bearing. It will throw your rod bearing clearances off.
Best looking 420 I've seen
Thanks man
Best how to video I've seen yet! Very good. Thank you sir!!
ooooo look at all the shiny race parts !!!!
As always, bad ass vid and very detailed RBG, thanx again man.
Thanks for supporting us man
valve lash checking has always been a favorite for me
Love the shroud
Great job and description of the job being performed. Thank you.
Never in a million years would I have imagined the time, effort, and money that could be invested in one of these little engines..... Not my flavor, but dang impressive.
These motors are extremely easy to take apart and put back together.
IMPORTANT! wen placing the side cover insert the bolts and do the first few turns by hand to prevent crossthreading!
This thing is sweet! Can't wait until it's on something!
nice... great lookin 420... now can't wait to see it on the kart
You make this look easy peasy
FYI, when checking bearing clearance with Plastigauge the surfaces should be clean and dry also no oil should be used under the bearings. Thanks
On the part of the video where I was explaining that I was actually seating the bearings fully not checking clearance
I will probably never get to do this kind of tear down and build, but I still watched the whole video. Great job. Your video should be required watching before posting a "how to" video. Very clear, concise and interesting. Now where did my ex-girlfriend hide that Predator motor I had in the workshop.
I probably won’t have one of these for a while but man this is cool
I seen u on the ARC live stream glad to see u getting serious with your performance builds keep it up
Dude that engine is soo clean it looks like it belongs in a really clean car 👍😎
Awesome build
This video was so good to learn the OHV engine.
this is the video iv'e seen on your channel and omg the content is such high quality and bloody love your videos.
Fricking sick splatter paint man
+Zachary Fromm thanks man
Crap Mr. Beard! The least you could have done is let us listen to it run lol. Nice build there RB. Very informative and professional. I like working with ANY motor but the small ones always peaks my interest. I ran a 44mm MickyRooney (Mikuni) years ago on my 1948 H-D Panhead..nice carb! I am now looking at a circa 1964 Briggs 5 h.p. from a Simplicity Snowblower that was my Grandad's back in '64 lol. It started to get tired about 20 yrs ago so my bro and I kind of refreshed it. New valves,a set of rings,light hone and a breakerless ignition. It runs well,just needs something to be bolted up to! That chasis on the '64 Simplicity is made out of pure steel and ways a friggin ton! Keep up the good work man!!
What a great how to video man! Very detailed excellent job!!
That cutaway clip at 14:10 got me. Sub'd and everything. Amazing detail and info red beard. You are a TH-cam hero for me and my little brother. We've been binge watching for a few hours.
Thanks for sticking around man. Lots coming so stay tuned
Should try knife edging the crank and porting and polishing the head, deck it then run the motor on alcohol. U will get a lot more power
Im sure we will do that in the future but this was just to do the stage 2 build on the engine
That motor looks nice
Thanks man
That's freaking awesome
cool work brother
Great Video! keep it UP!
Well done young man. Cheers 🍻 from England
Thank you sir
Cool video, very thorough explanations of everything.
Great work from Australia
Im 1st time in your channel...big thumbs up 4u sir..i'll subcribe
Turned out nice.
Great detailed video. Was a little unsure about using valve lapping paste that close to a crank seal. However changing a crank seal looks a hell of a lot easier than changing the starter motor.
Dude thanks for making this video
You need to do a video on your splatter paint technique. Both of the engine covers you have done look good.
Yes sir will do one very soon
that cut up side cover is brilliant. Im gonna copy you.
IT'S A BEAUT!!!
those are torque to yield rod bolts. once you torque them to spec once you cannot reuse them.
Very nice!!! Are you going to make video on how you did the little window on the blower cover
Yeah the next time I do one I will film it
very nice video! I love the little window you added so you can see the flywheel! I always hated how those beautiful flywheels just got covered up.
+MacroMachines that's exactly what I was thinking when putting the stock side cover on. That's why I did it. Lol.
+Red Beard's Garage i saw a comment response where you said you would make a " Mikuni carburetor tuning" video.. has that not happened yet? or was I late to that party haha..Thanx
1:20 how come you took the clip off but then cut the line?
HOT SHOT 1500 lmao I noticed that too
It was stuck on like a mofo
HOT SHOT 1500
1:50 after removing the charcoal canister he forgot to state to smash it with a hammer and burn it with fire.
Wasting fuel line
+NICK NEBULABOSS it was seazed on there. And yeah Nick I wanted 1/2" sue me
Valvoline ZR1 10w30 high zinc has zinc already in it i use it in every small engine rebuild to re work the cams in and so on
Nice looking lawn mower engine!
Its not a lawn mower engine jerk........... Its a tiller engine lol
Thx for video you saved me some money
Amazing my friends
It's very nice.
GREAT VIDEO
Thanks
Finally figured out the Patreon site! Took forever( probably cause I'm old). Left a comment today on yesterday's live stream video, but I did get to see most of it last nite. Packing to move so didn't get to see it all.
Well man thanks for watching and supporting us
Night*
NEVER lubricate the backside of bearing shells or rod. Always only apply assembly lube to outer (crankshaft contact) side of shell type bearings. If you dont have a clean oil free rod to bearing contact the shell may shift. Causing a spun bearing. Atleast thats how it works with car engines.
Yeah I shouldn't have it was just a moment where I wasn't thinking. Thank for the heads up though
looking good my man. love to see you hook up with a motorbike dyno shop and do some in depth videos on carb tuning/timing etc. as I'm sure it could greatly help a lot of your subscribers. Just a thought!
+Jarrad Powell I will see if I can find one close to me
+Red Beard's Garage oh I forget sometimes you are living in a relatively small town! maybe if you can't find a dyno some tuning with a home made O2 sensor can be just as productive and gives an awesome understanding of what's happening with your fuel/air adjustments!
"I always use 4 gallons of red loctite on my bolts to block the governor hole as well as the oil sensor hole"
I should have just filled the block with it as well. I think i was looking at the camera when i was doing that and just over did it lol
Red Beard's Garage Love the sense of humour Red!!! Great video BTW dawg 👌🏻💯🇨🇦
Wishin' a Merry Christmas to you & everyone reading this!🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄
Anthony Shelton I'm crying😂😂😂
Aircraft spec is 1 little dot
He wouldn’t use that much if he had to pay for it 😉
VERY well done video!
I like this channel, good man is red
Great Video with great information
You want to adjust the valves when the engine is cold only. This is because the clearances tighten up when the engine is warm.
I wish we could hear them run when he's done building them
Great job
Awesome, build...!!!😎
use assembly grease to put your keepers in. put a dab on the inside of the keeper, then install. should make installation easier.
WOW what a quality video. i watched the whole thing
Thank you man. The engine is somewhere over 20hp. More mods to come
thank you man for answering me i'll be here for the next vid that's for sure
Very informational !! But when breaking a engine in you need to use a straight weight non detergent oil like napa non detergent 30 . If you run a multi viscosity oil they all have a tone of detergent and it don’t matter how much zink you put in there with a high detergent oil the zink won’t stick to anything except the detergent molecules . Also you don’t use assembly lube on the rockers or push rod cups? Just wondering
Looks so good! I wish I could afford to build an engine like that. Can't wait to hear it rip! FYI those auto lite plugs only last for a few hours of run time. I have gone through about 5 of them on my predator.
Ngk is what you want
Fried Chicken where can you find them?
If you are young cut some extra yards in the neighborhood. Save and get you one
I would think you have to adjust your mixture. Any spark plug other than those chinese cheapos should not foul that quickly, or at all really.
Once again great video!!
Count find the link for the billet bolt covers in your bio. Please let me know where I can find
Best build vid to date! Jody at ARC would be proud.
+Doug Smith thanks man.
Beautifully presented video! ave has an interesting video on removing bearings such as the balance shaft bearing with greasy rags and a hammer, the procedure has saved me a couple times. Keep up the great content.
I tried that method on this engine with no luck so I used my welder
Can't wait to see the drive video before I drop another $1000 into the motor 😎
Awesome thanks for the great video!
start it up!!!!
nice new clean motor. i'm jealous.