1. On any tubing put a hose clamp around the tubing to make nice straight cuts and leave it on while you clean up burrs on the cut. 2. You can weld a full bead or just put spot welds around the end of steel tubing to keep the hose from slipping off. 3. On aluminum tubing you can roll your own bead with a wire crimping tool. I use Channel Lock 909. 4. Maximum Motorsports has K-member lowering kits to lower the engine. I think you have the choice of either 1/4" and 1/2" kits. Love the videos and I hope this helps.
Even simpler, I have scuffed the pipe near the end with a course grinding wheel and made a lip with epoxy putty. Given the size of that tube and the boost, you may need that lip.
EricTheCarGuy Also, to get clearance for the aluminum tube over the hot side of the turbo; once you have it all plumbed the way you want. Put a dimple on the underside of the tube (the side you want to hide) to give it some space between the aluminum tube and the heat sleeve for the turbo. It won't restrict flow. That's what I would do personally.
Ericthecarguy you can use wore cripes pliers to make the bead around the end of the pipe, it works like a dream. It's the easiest and cheapest and most effective method of doing it
Hey Eric, I hope you received my thank you message! Thanks for everything you do. One of the top automotive repair channels on youtuve without a doubt. Very much appreciate all your work and help. Thanks Eric.
Great Video Eric - it just to show how much time, thought and effort involved in building a custom ride. Unless you have done custom work yourself before you'll never know or appreciate trial and error that goes into building a custom. Sure, TV shows make it easy while packaging into allotted 46 minute run time ( the other 16 minutes are used by mindless commercials), but almost never show countless re-do's or scuffed knuckles that result in a build. Eric - keep doing your thing!!! You have plenty of patience which some of us are in dire need of.
Hey Eric, neat mechanic/fabricator trick here = Go to your local big-box store and pick up a large wire crimper and grind off the end, all but the crimping part. Now you have a hand held bead maker!
Enjoy watching the process very much, Eric! My suggestion for hood fit: build an inverted hood scoop with the opening facing the cabin, tapering down toward the front.
Hey Eric, just a friendly suggestion -- you might want to consider dropping the audio level by a few dB during scenes when you're using loud tools like grinders. It can be a pretty big jump in gain going from scenes where you're talking to the tool getting fired up, especially for those of us who listen with headphones. Love how this project is coming along, seems to be as much of a nice break from repair videos for us as it is for you!
It's not a jump in gain at all. All audio is set to -3db when I edit. It's just a harsh sound and seems louder. That said, I actually do this intentionally. Beethoven used to do this in his symphonies to wake up people in the audience that might be sleeping. Since my videos tend to run on the long side, I see this as a similar approach. Thanks for your input.
I felt I had to turn my volume down and Wright a comment. because it was so harsh I get the wake people up but I was watching in the same room as a sleeping baby. and if she wakes up I most likely can't finish the video.
Greetings Eric, thanks for these detailed series. In fact, thank you for all your videos, they area great. I suggest that when you finish the build, make a one hour long version of the complete build for the lazy one to watch. I bet it will be very entertaining and popular!
Eric, I've always loved how detailed your videos are. Keep up the good work. I think you got a little blinded by the fact that it was a ready made kit. I think you'll be way happier with the end result by totally reworking the intercooler piping. The turbo is positioned so nicely to go straight down into the intercooler and you have a ton of room to work with on the other side of the engine to get back up to the carb. Good luck, I can't wait for the next video.
thats why i still like oldschool builds. in the old days you just had to fit the engine, fuel lines and axhaust. now with the turbo and intercooler you see more pipes than engine block in the engine bay
It seems like lowering the engine would be the best option. 1. It fixes the hood clearance problem 2. It gives you a bit more clearance between the exhaust and the intake piping 3. It'll make the intake piping square with the carburetor hat, making the whole build look a lot cleaner
For the piping where you gonna cut. You can grab a scribe and gonna put a x pattern around the outer part where the hose with clamp so it can get an extra bit of bite.
A few suggestions: Invest in a bead roller, the end result is superior to crimping or welding. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive unit as does Eastwood, Jegs, Summit and numerous others. If using more often Vibrant makes an excellent bead roller. If wanting to keep the cost down, contact a HVAC sheet metal shop, many will roll beads on your tubes for a reasonable price. Have a machine shop mill approximately 0.500 inch off of the bottom of the carb hat and recreate the sealing O-ring recess to allow hood clearance. Or use spacers on the K-member unless that adversely affects the vehicle attitude, suspension and alignment geometry. I suspect you are going to reroute the charge air piping to feed the carb hat from the drivers side (reverse the flow through the intercooler) for a cleaner, cooler installation.
Eric put some rubber protection around the lip of that hole you cut so vibration and engine movement won't cause the sheet metal to cut through the aluminum tube
maybe i missed something but is there a reason why the charge from the turbo has to enter the right side of the inter cooler looking from the front of the car because if you swapped it so the charge goes from the turbo down and forward, to the left side of the intercooler across to the right, back into the engine bay and up to the hat
i was thinking the same thing but he was just using what he had available at the time "for testing purposes only" lol when he does change it i hope he does it that way
Eric, it won't look as pretty but I would insulate that final charge pipe as well. Because that downpipe even with the wrapping will transfer tons of heat into your final charge air. That cooler air benefits a carb setup much more than an injected. Also all of those trimmed up pipes should have a bead rolled on them because they are known to blow off even at lower boost levels. I wish you the best and have been watching for years, good luck.
You really need a belt/disc sander...I know a grinder will work, but a belt/disk sander combo will benefit you so much. I never realized how much I needed one until I got one.
Harbor Freight Special...have one...not great, but would do what you need to do for cheap. If you burn it up, it's only $60...or go all out and get one of those big boys from Powermatic. :) LOL. Great content!
Eric, You must know someone that has or works at a sheet metal shop. They could put the beads on the ends of the pipe with, of all things, a bead roller. Much easier and neater than welds on the pipe. Keep up the great work,
hey eric, a tip ive learned with radiators and inter coolers and such to prevent damage, tape some card board over the fins to keep them from getting bent in case it gets bumped..
lower the engine as much as possible, lower center of gravity. p.s. don't forget to check your drive shaft angles!. HOWEVER if that is not possible, lower the carb emove spacer if any\ machine an amount off the manifold carb mount. OR.. get a cowl induction hood or hood scoop! always looks cool! agree on rerouting the hot and cold side of the intercooler seems that would be a much simpler way to go. (more room too) great video, thanks for reminding me that I still have 8% of my build left to do and the 1st 2 % only took 7 months to complete. 90% was done in about 14 months. good luck and look forward to the burnouts.
A note on the heat transfer through your intercooler piping, while keeping the pipe away from heat is obviously good, keep in mind that since your running a carb, the air passing through the fuel spray actually cools the charge as well, so not a huge deal. You could always wrap the pipe or have it ceramic coated too.
For the hood issue I would do a very subtle hood scoop that's the same color to help with the clearance. Just a tiny one that blends and looks almost stock.
Coming nicely man. Older vid, probably already did something by now, but. For that hole you chopped in the side for cold air, ~ Get an old RCA cable, cut to length for around the hole, now make a slit all the way down it, pull the copper out. Bam, you have a rubber grommet. Use some sealant. Save on vibration and wear for AL tube.
2:56 Quite a pun there, Eric :D btw, great stuff, I love these random coverage type of videos, the car is looking great, cant wait for a final footage :D
A shorter intake manifold would probably help, not sure if you want to change that though. Also if it's touching, the engine will rock side to side and a bit up and down over speed bumps, if it's a bad bump it may make a small dent in the hood. Also it'll scrape as you dump the clutch and rock the engine to the side as it loads. So, an air gap is ideal. 1/"2 is probably plenty. Another options is a lower profile top hat, pretty sure there's a shiny one that fits. :) Love the videos, been following since like 2 years.
You could slit some rubber fuel line down it's length and put it in around the hole in your inner fender so it acts like a giant grommet for your charge pipe.
Like most of these projects, you will know exactly how it should be done as soon as you are finished. By the way, the folks at a local radiator shop might be able to roll those beads onto the end of the turbo pipes where you clamp on the rubber connectors.
This video makes you have more respect for pipe fitters of which I am. It's kinda funny watching him tear his hair out. This is what I do every day minus the inspectors and engineers
Eric try hood risers to to space your hinges from the hood might give you some clearance as well as air ventilation to keep it a little cooler under the hood
Try cutting a wedge out of the fitting on top of the carb. It'll be a bit of a jig saw puzzle to fit the pieces to minimize turbulence, but it would be MUCH more simple than some of the other possibilities you mentioned in this episode. (Just a thought) Good luck!
Welcome to poor planning and execution. NOT welcome to project cars. Eric has total freedom with the build yet does the 'final' fitting without even properly cleaning the engine bay, then routes the charge pipes from the passenger side into the drivers then back across to the passenger side right next the turbine housing. Eric's 'parts fitting' dealership thinking makes him a real beginner at this, so he should stop pretending to be some sort of project car authority. Sorry if the truth hurts.
I'm sure someone beat me to it, but if I were you, I would swap your hot and cold side on the intercooler and clock your carb cover towards the driver side. That will keep the heat away from your cold charge air, and even better, it'll shorten your charged air route so you have less delay, and more throttle response.
Love your videos Eric! Keep up the good work! PS: my experience with those tubes is that you can't expect that those will still in place "forever" without the groves on the sides.. you can wrench down those clamps as tight as you can but sooner or later those tubes will came off
I honestly doubt it. I'm not running crazy boost, 9psi tops. Also, you'd be surprised at how well the scuffing of the tube helped. Thanks for your comment.
JDM secret; spray inside of hoses and outside of pipe with hairspray before clamping them together. When it dries, they are stuck together. Good for around 24 psi of boost. JD
if you fab up a small spacer setup between the crossmember and the body it will lower the engine and create that small amount of hood clearance you need without messing with the motor mounts. the negative side is that it will give you a body lift in the front so to speak in the amount of spacing that you choose to go with. but with your lowering springs and the fact that you may only need a less than an inch of spacing to achieve the clearance the stance might still be acceptable and everything else like the turbo piping, wiring, and steering shaft should still fit just fine.
I actually ended up getting a set of spacers from Maximum Motorsports that did the trick. I also installed coil overs in the front so ride height isn't an issue. Thanks for the suggestion!
thanks for the videos! really enjoying the video series of the fairmont build. can't wait to see the "end result". obviously there is no end to project cars until the wallet is tapped out, but it'll be awesome to see you with the car up and you enjoying the fruits of your labor. Keep up the great work!
Eric if you're worried about heat transfer for the induction with that pipe maybe you should go with a plastic unit or some sort of phenolic resin to resist the heat better.
To add, I would have routed the turbo outlet to the passenger side of the intercooler, then rotate the hat and routed the intercooler piping to the driver side of the intercooler.
For lowering the engine, you can put/weld spacers between the chassis and the K member, then adjust the coilovers to adjust ride height. ( don't remember if you have coilovers)
Cut a hole in the hood where it is touching the carb tube (If you don't mind altering the stock hood). Then make a cool looking fabrication on the hood.
To make the hood clear the carb hat, you could cut the hood on both sides at the body line, and scab in sheet metal to make the middle section just a little taller. Do it at an angle so that the front of the hood is the same, just a little taller in the back center. Should retain the sleeper look well, as long as it isn't made too tall.
Eric why not just run the turbo into the passenger side of the intercooler and run the cold side out the driver's side and rout it that way? You're traversing the engine bay twice. Plus your tube that runs into the carb hat is right next to the screaming hot turbine, and no matter what it will negate at least some of the intercooler's efficiency.
Though some people scoff at blowing through a carburetor, the latent heat of vaporization actually makes it so that the fuel that enters the intake is far cooler than if done through a fuel injected system. David Freiburger of Hot Rod had a nice article on this phenomenon when he discussed his Bonneville Camaro setup. A lot of times the intercooler is less effective than the actual aerosolization of the fuel itself
All of which is completely irrelevant for a street car with enormous radiant heat induced under bonnet temps and endlessly variable engine load. Very different to a wide open throttle salt-flat vehicle or any race car where the sheer volume of 'fogged' fuel is able to absorb heat. Will not be the case in a street car with so much more variability, far less WOT situations and far less movement to rid the engine bay of radiant heat.
Thanks for the reply! You'll still see a cooling effect of having the gas go through the intake rather than on a direct port setup. Yes, you wouldn't want to push all that much uncooled boost through a street setup. But I've actually had my butterflys be cool to the touch even after running awhile
EricTheCarGuy for the hood use a hood spacer as the bug guys are using. Simply put a alloy block that moves the mounting point to the hood higher up. That will also help suck out the engine bay heat...
Hey Eric love your videos i look forward to seeing your videos every friday night it the best end to my week i could ask for. Have you thought about swapping the hot and cold sides so that the cold side is on the drivers side that way you have heaps more room to work with and you dont have to try and fit it past the turbo.
Matthew Walley my thought also.... it really looks a bit ugly having those pipes crossing like that... difficult to make, not efficient, and ugly... change it eric, it will be a lot nicer and worth the effort
Totally Legit Gaming [TLEG] Fair enough. I just got a lot of comments just like yours in previous videos. That's why I dropped in the new intro, to address those comments. In fact, I believe I said exactly what you suggested in the beginning of the video. I also gave credit to all those that suggested I do it that way. Thanks for your comments.
I enjoyed watching the vid Eric. Maybe a different/ lower profile carb hat, or a low profile hood scoop of some kind to address the hood clearance issue. Great video though, keep up the great work Brother.
PLEASE GET THIS TO THE TOP. You should really completely rethink your whole piping design. it's unorthodox and if you have your hot side on the passenger and cold side on the driver it would be cleaner and there would be less piping making it more efficient. Also you can use wire crimpers to put that raised bump on the intercooler piping for the clamps/couplers to sit on. it'll be tougher with the stainless but it's especially easy with the aluminum. you're going to need those raised spots or your ic piping is going to pop off repeatedly. Only looking out, trying to save a headache or two down the road
To put a lip around the edge you just need a rounded bit of metal a vice to hold it in and a rubber hammer or a block of wood and a regular hammer. You mount the anvil in the vice place the tube over the anvil and rest it about fifteen millimetres from the edge and hit the tube with the Hammer above the anvil. You hit it just hard enough to force a dent to protrude but not so hard that it is more than a little bump you work around the tube until you have a slight lip then go around again a little harder and keep going round til the lip is high enough to be useful. Fifteen millimetres is just over half an inch.
This might sound a little rigged, but you can take a rubber boot meant for a vent pipe on the roof of a house and use it on that hole you made for the charge pipe>carb. If you take your time it makes for a very tidy install.
if u want a lip on the pipe like the one u cut off. the one you said u dident have the tool for. run a bead all the way around with your mig welder. just make it a lil cold so you dont accendtly burn through or distort the smooth ness on the inside. then grind to desired shape and smoothness. works well!
Eric, i know you said it already but that is too much piping, instead of running that long pipe across the front from the turbo outlet to the intercooler just run a pipe from the turbo to the right side of the intercooler.. that way from the left side of the intercooler is a shorter piping to the carb hat.
Not exactly, you said you plan on re-routing, but didn't specify. You can route tons of ways, just saying re-routing while still going through the process of opening the hole wider on the fender makes it seem like you are committed to cold air coming out of that side.
qballtvp how about a small power bulge as the flatter carb hat didn't work on the dyno, and with the sporty wheels and intercooler on display a small bump on the hood would go unnoticed
I use a baby grinder and a metal cutting disk to cut stainless. Same sort of thing as the die grinder with the cut off wheel but bigger and more control. I usually get a nice straight cut
You could trim a CM or 2 off of the carb mating surface of the intake elbow, and that would lower it down some without sacrificing much. You could also go old school racer and pop up the back of the hood like the old street race guys. Also helps with engine bay temps.
Modify the section of the hood fouling with the carburetor intake to include an artificial air snorkel that sits around 30-35 mm above the top surface of the hood(you see that on some diesel SUVs as an intercooler feed). That should give you enough clearance to get going as far as the hood is concerned. It will look good as well.
Cool , that will have your motor looking good. Like you mentioned in the video having your tubing routed to suit a carb and hat set up is better than what you had in the EFI kit. Even if you go to EFI you could just use a 4 barrel style intake with injectors in the runners and keep your tube routing the same. Oh and the hood clearance solution mentioned by others about putting spacers on your K- member might work but you could also mill an inch out of the top of the hat and TIG weld a flat alloy plate on top of the hat. Or another more radical Idea is to take your manifold to a machine shop and have them mill down the mating face for the carb , or you could make a fully custom sheet metal manifold but that's getting extreme. Anyway good luck mate. Enjoying the videos and can't wait to see the Fairmont boosting its way down the road !
Remove the washers on the mounts to lower the engine, mill the upper part of the intake manifold and lastly put the washers from the mounts and install them on the hood hinge to raise it (like many people do with imports); that way you may get enough clearance beetween the carb and the hood, good luck
37:13 That's what we call "putting it on the shelf" for later. Sometimes if you put something on the shelf and then come back to it, your subconscious will have worked it out for you.
get a 76 to 78 cobra mustang scoop, they mount opening toward windshield to hide hole if need be or have some material removed from intake where carb mounts
If this were my project, I think I'd cut out the bit of hood hitting that part mounted to the carb... then try to find or form a piece of sheet steel which I'd weld to the hood, creating the necessary clearance without altering how the hood is mounted. Heck, one of my previous cars (1985 Dodge Shelby Charger) had a bit of a hump in the hood direct from the factory.
1. On any tubing put a hose clamp around the tubing to make nice straight cuts and leave it on while you clean up burrs on the cut.
2. You can weld a full bead or just put spot welds around the end of steel tubing to keep the hose from slipping off.
3. On aluminum tubing you can roll your own bead with a wire crimping tool. I use Channel Lock 909.
4. Maximum Motorsports has K-member lowering kits to lower the engine. I think you have the choice of either 1/4" and 1/2" kits.
Love the videos and I hope this helps.
Thanks for the tips on the tubing. MM does have K member spacer kits. I got one, 1/2", and it worked perfect.
Even simpler, I have scuffed the pipe near the end with a course grinding wheel and made a lip with epoxy putty. Given the size of that tube and the boost, you may need that lip.
EricTheCarGuy Also, to get clearance for the aluminum tube over the hot side of the turbo; once you have it all plumbed the way you want. Put a dimple on the underside of the tube (the side you want to hide) to give it some space between the aluminum tube and the heat sleeve for the turbo. It won't restrict flow. That's what I would do personally.
Ericthecarguy you can use wore cripes pliers to make the bead around the end of the pipe, it works like a dream. It's the easiest and cheapest and most effective method of doing it
wire crimper*
I appreciate you including the stuff that doesn't work out. It's a better representation of what a project is really like.
38 minutes of being comfy. Life is good.
I don't know what I'm going to do when this build is finished, I really enjoy seeing it come together through your eyes, well camera man brian's eyes.
We are not "smarter than you" hindsight is 20/20.Thanks Eric!
Hey Eric, I hope you received my thank you message! Thanks for everything you do. One of the top automotive repair channels on youtuve without a doubt. Very much appreciate all your work and help.
Thanks Eric.
Great Video Eric - it just to show how much time, thought and effort involved in building a custom ride. Unless you have done custom work yourself before you'll never know or appreciate trial and error that goes into building a custom. Sure, TV shows make it easy while packaging into allotted 46 minute run time ( the other 16 minutes are used by mindless commercials), but almost never show countless re-do's or scuffed knuckles that result in a build.
Eric - keep doing your thing!!! You have plenty of patience which some of us are in
dire need of.
Hey Eric, neat mechanic/fabricator trick here = Go to your local big-box store and pick up a large wire crimper and grind off the end, all but the crimping part. Now you have a hand held bead maker!
Great idea! Thanks!
Learned that one on a boosted lawn mower!
.... The parents weren't too happy when they found out why their mower didn't work anymore....
Enjoy watching the process very much, Eric! My suggestion for hood fit: build an inverted hood scoop with the opening facing the cabin, tapering down toward the front.
To help keep the intercooler tubes from blowing off run a weld around the pipe. It'll do the same thing as the bead that was originally on there.
Hey Eric, just a friendly suggestion -- you might want to consider dropping the audio level by a few dB during scenes when you're using loud tools like grinders. It can be a pretty big jump in gain going from scenes where you're talking to the tool getting fired up, especially for those of us who listen with headphones.
Love how this project is coming along, seems to be as much of a nice break from repair videos for us as it is for you!
It's not a jump in gain at all. All audio is set to -3db when I edit. It's just a harsh sound and seems louder. That said, I actually do this intentionally. Beethoven used to do this in his symphonies to wake up people in the audience that might be sleeping. Since my videos tend to run on the long side, I see this as a similar approach. Thanks for your input.
it actually wakes me up -,-
Just listen to it on a slightly lower volume.
I felt I had to turn my volume down and Wright a comment. because it was so harsh I get the wake people up but I was watching in the same room as a sleeping baby. and if she wakes up I most likely can't finish the video.
Greetings Eric,
thanks for these detailed series. In fact, thank you for all your videos, they area great. I suggest that when you finish the build, make a one hour long version of the complete build for the lazy one to watch. I bet it will be very entertaining and popular!
Eric, I've always loved how detailed your videos are. Keep up the good work. I think you got a little blinded by the fact that it was a ready made kit. I think you'll be way happier with the end result by totally reworking the intercooler piping. The turbo is positioned so nicely to go straight down into the intercooler and you have a ton of room to work with on the other side of the engine to get back up to the carb. Good luck, I can't wait for the next video.
Everyone does silly things at times. Differences is your showing us all of yours. Still pretty talented to me mate. Keep it up. :)
Gotta love the turbo v8! Must go like a dream..
thats why i still like oldschool builds. in the old days you just had to fit the engine, fuel lines and axhaust. now with the turbo and intercooler you see more pipes than engine block in the engine bay
It seems like lowering the engine would be the best option.
1. It fixes the hood clearance problem
2. It gives you a bit more clearance between the exhaust and the intake piping
3. It'll make the intake piping square with the carburetor hat, making the whole build look a lot cleaner
I installed a set of spacers under the K member and it worked great. www.ericthecarguy.com/blog/1981-march-2017-newsletter
John Perry or just lose the carburetor and go fuel injection
For the piping where you gonna cut. You can grab a scribe and gonna put a x pattern around the outer part where the hose with clamp so it can get an extra bit of bite.
A few suggestions:
Invest in a bead roller, the end result is superior to crimping or welding. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive unit as does Eastwood, Jegs, Summit and numerous others.
If using more often Vibrant makes an excellent bead roller.
If wanting to keep the cost down, contact a HVAC sheet metal shop, many will roll beads on your tubes for a reasonable price.
Have a machine shop mill approximately 0.500 inch off of the bottom of the carb hat and recreate the sealing O-ring recess to allow hood clearance.
Or use spacers on the K-member unless that adversely affects the vehicle attitude, suspension and alignment geometry.
I suspect you are going to reroute the charge air piping to feed the carb hat from the drivers side (reverse the flow through the intercooler) for a cleaner, cooler installation.
Thank you for watching the video? Thank you for making the video!!!
Eric put some rubber protection around the lip of that hole you cut so vibration and engine movement won't cause the sheet metal to cut through the aluminum tube
Hunter RedBlood Trim seal works well.
I plan to! In fact, I came up with a really cool solution for that this week using a piece of fuel line.
maybe i missed something but is there a reason why the charge from the turbo has to enter the right side of the inter cooler looking from the front of the car because if you swapped it so the charge goes from the turbo down and forward, to the left side of the intercooler across to the right, back into the engine bay and up to the hat
ADRIAAN1007 first 30 seconds of the video...
I covered that in the beginning of the video.
Oil filter/feed lines may be in the way.A/C too.Go inside the drivers fender?
i was thinking the same thing but he was just using what he had available at the time "for testing purposes only" lol
when he does change it i hope he does it that way
Hi Ecric am not a mechanic but I enjoy watching your videos.
Really excited to see this through to the end!!!!!
Eric, it won't look as pretty but I would insulate that final charge pipe as well. Because that downpipe even with the wrapping will transfer tons of heat into your final charge air. That cooler air benefits a carb setup much more than an injected. Also all of those trimmed up pipes should have a bead rolled on them because they are known to blow off even at lower boost levels. I wish you the best and have been watching for years, good luck.
You really need a belt/disc sander...I know a grinder will work, but a belt/disk sander combo will benefit you so much. I never realized how much I needed one until I got one.
I have to agree with that. I have been doing a lot of that type of work lately and a belt sander would be awesome.
Harbor Freight Special...have one...not great, but would do what you need to do for cheap. If you burn it up, it's only $60...or go all out and get one of those big boys from Powermatic. :) LOL. Great content!
Eric,
You must know someone that has or works at a sheet metal shop. They could put the beads on the ends of the pipe with, of all things, a bead roller. Much easier and neater than welds on the pipe.
Keep up the great work,
We should be watching you run this thing down the quarter mile but we're still test fitting! YAWN
hey eric, a tip ive learned with radiators and inter coolers and such to prevent damage, tape some card board over the fins to keep them from getting bent in case it gets bumped..
"Still got a fair amount of work to do"I see what you did there
Where the heater hose is close to the fuel line, insulate the hose so it doesn't heat the fuel. I learned that the hard way.
lower the engine as much as possible, lower center of gravity. p.s. don't forget to check your drive shaft angles!. HOWEVER if that is not possible, lower the carb
emove spacer if any\ machine an amount off the manifold carb mount. OR.. get a cowl induction hood or hood scoop! always looks cool! agree on rerouting the hot and cold side of the intercooler seems that would be a much simpler way to go. (more room too) great video, thanks for reminding me that I still have 8% of my build left to do and the 1st 2 % only took 7 months to complete. 90% was done in about 14 months. good luck and look forward to the burnouts.
"I have a fair amount of work to do." Eric and his puns. ;D
great editing on this one. Your video's keep getting better.
Wooo buddy u got ur work cut out ... keep truckin tho I can't wait to see the first startup and test drive.🏎
I like your pun at 2:56 "there's still a fairmont of work to do"
A note on the heat transfer through your intercooler piping, while keeping the pipe away from heat is obviously good, keep in mind that since your running a carb, the air passing through the fuel spray actually cools the charge as well, so not a huge deal. You could always wrap the pipe or have it ceramic coated too.
Thanks for your input, but like I said at the beginning of the video, I plan to change the cold side routing.
Right, i recall that. My point was maybe you dont even need to change it, at least i wouldnt worry about heat transfer that much
For the hood issue I would do a very subtle hood scoop that's the same color to help with the clearance. Just a tiny one that blends and looks almost stock.
your like to dislike is like the best on TH-cam! love the videos man they've helped me more then once!
2:59 "still have a Fairmont of work to do" lol i crack myself up
at the beginning of the video looks like Eric is using Jedi mind tricks lol
Coming nicely man. Older vid, probably already did something by now, but. For that hole you chopped in the side for cold air, ~ Get an old RCA cable, cut to length for around the hole, now make a slit all the way down it, pull the copper out. Bam, you have a rubber grommet. Use some sealant. Save on vibration and wear for AL tube.
Use some washers on the back hood mounts to space it up. Old racetrack trick to clearancing under hood stuff and bonus venting
Hey cool, you delivered :) Wish you a great deal of success with your build!
2:56 Quite a pun there, Eric :D btw, great stuff, I love these random coverage type of videos, the car is looking great, cant wait for a final footage :D
A shorter intake manifold would probably help, not sure if you want to change that though.
Also if it's touching, the engine will rock side to side and a bit up and down over speed bumps, if it's a bad bump it may make a small dent in the hood.
Also it'll scrape as you dump the clutch and rock the engine to the side as it loads. So, an air gap is ideal. 1/"2 is probably plenty.
Another options is a lower profile top hat, pretty sure there's a shiny one that fits. :)
Love the videos, been following since like 2 years.
Getting very exciting now! can't wait to see it complete. then hopefully........................ a new project car lol thanx
Dude! You're famous! Nearly a million subscribers and I just watched a Mighty Car Mods episode of unicorn circuit and they mentioned you!
Glad to see you haven't gone bazzurk
You could slit some rubber fuel line down it's length and put it in around the hole in your inner fender so it acts like a giant grommet for your charge pipe.
Make the hole in the hood buddy and make it look legit! This will only make the whole thing look more like "signature series."
Hood scoop Eric, that is really cool ;)
There's a trick with vice grips I believe to put a nice lip onto pipes, comes out pretty good.
Like most of these projects, you will know exactly how it should be done as soon as you are finished. By the way, the folks at a local radiator shop might be able to roll those beads onto the end of the turbo pipes where you clamp on the rubber connectors.
This video makes you have more respect for pipe fitters of which I am. It's kinda funny watching him tear his hair out. This is what I do every day minus the inspectors and engineers
Eric try hood risers to to space your hinges from the hood might give you some clearance as well as air ventilation to keep it a little cooler under the hood
Try cutting a wedge out of the fitting on top of the carb. It'll be a bit of a jig saw puzzle to fit the pieces to minimize turbulence, but it would be MUCH more simple than some of the other possibilities you mentioned in this episode. (Just a thought) Good luck!
This is the kind of shit you don't see in the shiny TV shows. Can't wait till you fire the monster up.
Man this is draaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaagging on and on and on and on.... Sheesh.
Well its a long process.... custom car, engine, transmission, differential, battery replacement, fabrication..... it all takes time and money.
Welcome to project cars.
looking good take your time a get it right eric
Welcome to poor planning and execution. NOT welcome to project cars. Eric has total freedom with the build yet does the 'final' fitting without even properly cleaning the engine bay, then routes the charge pipes from the passenger side into the drivers then back across to the passenger side right next the turbine housing. Eric's 'parts fitting' dealership thinking makes him a real beginner at this, so he should stop pretending to be some sort of project car authority. Sorry if the truth hurts.
William Crowell lol. Apparently you woke up on the wrong side of the bed today.
I'm sure someone beat me to it, but if I were you, I would swap your hot and cold side on the intercooler and clock your carb cover towards the driver side. That will keep the heat away from your cold charge air, and even better, it'll shorten your charged air route so you have less delay, and more throttle response.
lol, you said that at the end of the video.
Love your videos Eric! Keep up the good work! PS: my experience with those tubes is that you can't expect that those will still in place "forever" without the groves on the sides.. you can wrench down those clamps as tight as you can but sooner or later those tubes will came off
I honestly doubt it. I'm not running crazy boost, 9psi tops. Also, you'd be surprised at how well the scuffing of the tube helped. Thanks for your comment.
To get that lip on the tube just is a wire crimp part on wire cutters. It'll take awhile but you'll get that lip
JDM secret; spray inside of hoses and outside of pipe with hairspray before clamping them together. When it dries, they are stuck together. Good for around 24 psi of boost.
JD
charge pipe right on the exhaust side of turbo is making me feel funny lol
If you had it handy Eric, a chop saw would have been perfect to cut that tubing straight with. But deep down you knew that already :P
if you fab up a small spacer setup between the crossmember and the body it will lower the engine and create that small amount of hood clearance you need without messing with the motor mounts. the negative side is that it will give you a body lift in the front so to speak in the amount of spacing that you choose to go with. but with your lowering springs and the fact that you may only need a less than an inch of spacing to achieve the clearance the stance might still be acceptable and everything else like the turbo piping, wiring, and steering shaft should still fit just fine.
I actually ended up getting a set of spacers from Maximum Motorsports that did the trick. I also installed coil overs in the front so ride height isn't an issue. Thanks for the suggestion!
thanks for the videos! really enjoying the video series of the fairmont build. can't wait to see the "end result". obviously there is no end to project cars until the wallet is tapped out, but it'll be awesome to see you with the car up and you enjoying the fruits of your labor. Keep up the great work!
Eric you can take a pair of vice grips and take a washer on one side and use those to crimp a bead on the aluminum piping
Interesting.
Eric if you're worried about heat transfer for the induction with that pipe maybe you should go with a plastic unit or some sort of phenolic resin to resist the heat better.
for the intercooler tube flares, you can tig a new bead on there instead of having it flared
To add, I would have routed the turbo outlet to the passenger side of the intercooler, then rotate the hat and routed the intercooler piping to the driver side of the intercooler.
to add again, you can get stainless steel pipe sections from muffler shops
For lowering the engine, you can put/weld spacers between the chassis and the K member, then adjust the coilovers to adjust ride height. ( don't remember if you have coilovers)
2:57 "I still got a fair amount of work to do" fair amount, fairmont... Ba dum tsss!
Glad to see you using pipe dope instead of teflon tape.
Glad you published this video
Cut a hole in the hood where it is touching the carb tube (If you don't mind altering the stock hood). Then make a cool looking fabrication on the hood.
To make the hood clear the carb hat, you could cut the hood on both sides at the body line, and scab in sheet metal to make the middle section just a little taller. Do it at an angle so that the front of the hood is the same, just a little taller in the back center. Should retain the sleeper look well, as long as it isn't made too tall.
Eric why not just run the turbo into the passenger side of the intercooler and run the cold side out the driver's side and rout it that way? You're traversing the engine bay twice. Plus your tube that runs into the carb hat is right next to the screaming hot turbine, and no matter what it will negate at least some of the intercooler's efficiency.
Love these vids! Keep it up Eric!
Though some people scoff at blowing through a carburetor, the latent heat of vaporization actually makes it so that the fuel that enters the intake is far cooler than if done through a fuel injected system.
David Freiburger of Hot Rod had a nice article on this phenomenon when he discussed his Bonneville Camaro setup. A lot of times the intercooler is less effective than the actual aerosolization of the fuel itself
All of which is completely irrelevant for a street car with enormous radiant heat induced under bonnet temps and endlessly variable engine load. Very different to a wide open throttle salt-flat vehicle or any race car where the sheer volume of 'fogged' fuel is able to absorb heat. Will not be the case in a street car with so much more variability, far less WOT situations and far less movement to rid the engine bay of radiant heat.
Thanks for the reply! You'll still see a cooling effect of having the gas go through the intake rather than on a direct port setup. Yes, you wouldn't want to push all that much uncooled boost through a street setup. But I've actually had my butterflys be cool to the touch even after running awhile
EricTheCarGuy for the hood use a hood spacer as the bug guys are using.
Simply put a alloy block that moves the mounting point to the hood higher up.
That will also help suck out the engine bay heat...
Hey Eric love your videos i look forward to seeing your videos every friday night it the best end to my week i could ask for.
Have you thought about swapping the hot and cold sides so that the cold side is on the drivers side that way you have heaps more room to work with and you dont have to try and fit it past the turbo.
This was my thought as well. Hotside and coldside both competing for space doesn't seem efficient.
Matthew Walley my thought also.... it really looks a bit ugly having those pipes crossing like that... difficult to make, not efficient, and ugly... change it eric, it will be a lot nicer and worth the effort
Did you watch the beginning of the video? ;)
EricTheCarGuy Yes. But since we do not know what your future plans are, we are still offering suggestions (and discussing).
Totally Legit Gaming [TLEG] Fair enough. I just got a lot of comments just like yours in previous videos. That's why I dropped in the new intro, to address those comments. In fact, I believe I said exactly what you suggested in the beginning of the video. I also gave credit to all those that suggested I do it that way. Thanks for your comments.
I enjoyed watching the vid Eric. Maybe a different/ lower profile carb hat, or a low profile hood scoop of some kind to address the hood clearance issue. Great video though, keep up the great work Brother.
PLEASE GET THIS TO THE TOP. You should really completely rethink your whole piping design. it's unorthodox and if you have your hot side on the passenger and cold side on the driver it would be cleaner and there would be less piping making it more efficient. Also you can use wire crimpers to put that raised bump on the intercooler piping for the clamps/couplers to sit on. it'll be tougher with the stainless but it's especially easy with the aluminum. you're going to need those raised spots or your ic piping is going to pop off repeatedly. Only looking out, trying to save a headache or two down the road
THAT'S HOW YOU CLOSE A HOOD PARKER! 35:10
hahahaha yup screw vehicle virgins honestly
To put a lip around the edge you just need a rounded bit of metal a vice to hold it in and a rubber hammer or a block of wood and a regular hammer. You mount the anvil in the vice place the tube over the anvil and rest it about fifteen millimetres from the edge and hit the tube with the Hammer above the anvil. You hit it just hard enough to force a dent to protrude but not so hard that it is more than a little bump you work around the tube until you have a slight lip then go around again a little harder and keep going round til the lip is high enough to be useful.
Fifteen millimetres is just over half an inch.
This might sound a little rigged, but you can take a rubber boot meant for a vent pipe on the roof of a house and use it on that hole you made for the charge pipe>carb. If you take your time it makes for a very tidy install.
if u want a lip on the pipe like the one u cut off. the one you said u dident have the tool for. run a bead all the way around with your mig welder. just make it a lil cold so you dont accendtly burn through or distort the smooth ness on the inside. then grind to desired shape and smoothness. works well!
When cutting silicone, fix a clamp around the silicone and rest the side of the blade to it to get a perfect cut
Great tip, thanks!
Eric, i know you said it already but that is too much piping, instead of running that long pipe across the front from the turbo outlet to the intercooler just run a pipe from the turbo to the right side of the intercooler.. that way from the left side of the intercooler is a shorter piping to the carb hat.
You're right, I did say that already. ;)
Not exactly, you said you plan on re-routing, but didn't specify. You can route tons of ways, just saying re-routing while still going through the process of opening the hole wider on the fender makes it seem like you are committed to cold air coming out of that side.
EricTheCarGuy how about putting a scoop in the hood Tht might clear the air cleaner
That would also destroy the "sleeper" aspect...
qballtvp how about a small power bulge as the flatter carb hat didn't work on the dyno, and with the sporty wheels and intercooler on display a small bump on the hood would go unnoticed
you can use wire cripes to make those bumps on the end of the pipe to hold the clamps
I use a baby grinder and a metal cutting disk to cut stainless. Same sort of thing as the die grinder with the cut off wheel but bigger and more control. I usually get a nice straight cut
You could trim a CM or 2 off of the carb mating surface of the intake elbow, and that would lower it down some without sacrificing much.
You could also go old school racer and pop up the back of the hood like the old street race guys. Also helps with engine bay temps.
You need a Turbo Yoda.
love the workflow psychology. also, i'm interested to see if you lift up the cooler, or how you cover it up.
Modify the section of the hood fouling with the carburetor intake to include an artificial air snorkel that sits around 30-35 mm above the top surface of the hood(you see that on some diesel SUVs as an intercooler feed). That should give you enough clearance to get going as far as the hood is concerned. It will look good as well.
Eric just go to your nearest exhaust shop and they can fab up some pretty stainless tube for you in no time , its what they do every day.
Great suggestion. I actually found this place that seems to work pretty good. www.siliconeintakes.com
Cool , that will have your motor looking good. Like you mentioned in the video having your tubing routed to suit a carb and hat set up is better than what you had in the EFI kit. Even if you go to EFI you could just use a 4 barrel style intake with injectors in the runners and keep your tube routing the same. Oh and the hood clearance solution mentioned by others about putting spacers on your K- member might work but you could also mill an inch out of the top of the hat and TIG weld a flat alloy plate on top of the hat. Or another more radical Idea is to take your manifold to a machine shop and have them mill down the mating face for the carb , or you could make a fully custom sheet metal manifold but that's getting extreme. Anyway good luck mate. Enjoying the videos and can't wait to see the Fairmont boosting its way down the road !
Remove the washers on the mounts to lower the engine, mill the upper part of the intake manifold and lastly put the washers from the mounts and install them on the hood hinge to raise it (like many people do with imports); that way you may get enough clearance beetween the carb and the hood, good luck
37:13 That's what we call "putting it on the shelf" for later. Sometimes if you put something on the shelf and then come back to it, your subconscious will have worked it out for you.
get a 76 to 78 cobra mustang scoop, they mount opening toward windshield to hide hole if need be or have some material removed from intake where carb mounts
Thanks for the suggestion. I solved it by dropping the K member. www.ericthecarguy.com/blog/1981-march-2017-newsletter
sounded like I was at the dentist office when running that cutting wheel
If this were my project, I think I'd cut out the bit of hood hitting that part mounted to the carb... then try to find or form a piece of sheet steel which I'd weld to the hood, creating the necessary clearance without altering how the hood is mounted. Heck, one of my previous cars (1985 Dodge Shelby Charger) had a bit of a hump in the hood direct from the factory.
A length of heater hose slit makes a nice grommet for fender hole, cushion pipe rattle and wear. Insulation wrap cold pipe, too? Leftover Oliver hose?