Between Eric here, Eric O and Eric the car guy, if you name your kid Eric they will grow up to be Awesome Auto Technicians. That's just science right there. Awesome work again!
Hey use an Infrared Camera to find parasitic draw... You can see what fuse and or module has a load on it from the temperature difference... its pretty fun and very fast to find the suspected circuit..
Nicely done my friend finding a parasitic draw in a Ford is so difficult because of the modules waking up all the time. You showed incredible patience waiting for everything to go back asleep thank you awesome video
Thank you for the video. If you don't feel like voltage drop testing the fuses while searching the draw you may want to pull fuse by fuse but not put them back in until you pulled all of them. That way you'll avoid waking up components and you don't have to wait for them to power down.
As Murphy dictates, you start removing fuses at one end, but Murphy makes it that you should have started at the opposite end. I feel for you Eric. It must have been a real pain... An excellent fault find and diagnosis... WELL DONE!!! 10/10
When I was dealing with the same problem, I just had made leads long enough to take multimeter in the car with me. So I didn't need to have a helper. Additional leads voltage drop was irrelevant.
@@fredsalter1915 internal short but the op has the idea of a true solution. I actually did this on a GPS system. I installed a relay that was triggered by the ignition switch, usually these modules have direct power and another power circuit powers them on internally. A short would cause amp draw like this, very typical with radios too because they have direct current and ground.
And if you see 19:36 the dark spot on the right of the DVD has like 2 small purple lights. Which I think are the Infrared LEDs to read the remote controls input. Indicating it was on
30 yrs ago, a VW convertible had a parasitic drain on the battery. I was by myself, so I made long leads, hooked up a volt meter, battery was draining .01 volts per minute. I followed the exact same process. Battery started at 13.31 volts. I pulled every fuse, no change. Battery was down to 11.55 volts. I pulled a non-fused, grey wire. Voltage jumped to 12.55 volts. I checked to see what did not work. I did not have a wiring schematic. All things worked. Business colleague later told me that the light that came on to indicate a gear shift was required no longer worked. (it was a stick shift). Business colleague had brought his daughters vehicle to a number of electrical shops in Jacksonville, Fl. He asked me to check as a favor.
Great detective work, very educational and entertaining. The heat and humidity in cramped spaces must have been unbearable but you overcame it and kept moving forward. You are doing a good job!
I'm glad you said something about letting Fords time out for about 40 mins to an hr. Service data says this, and covers all vehicles from about '00 to about '11. It has been my experience that the smart junction fuse box battery saver relay sticks, and will cause about a 400mA draw. Sometimes it's just the relay, other times the magic box. If so, the box must be programmed to make the remote key fob work, even with the same P/N. Glad you found the issue!
Eric, Excellent job is finding the parasitic drain. You did a fantastic job in explaining the step by step method of finding the problem even a novice would understand.
Thanks for making this video. It was the same issue draining my battery. There must be an internal issue with these overhead dvd players. Important thing to know is that fuse 21 is the instrument cluster. At first I thought this was my issue. This circuit takes 40 minutes to go to sleep. If you pull the fuse leave it out and test the other fuses. If you put it back in you will have to wait another 40 minutes for it to go to sleep again.
Extremely useful video. You provide an incredible service to your viewers. Now I know why my back hurts so damn bad as I have contorted myself in very much the same way trying to repair our family vehicles. Thanks again. Great job. Thanks for reminding viewers about "waking up' modules and how to avoid doing so.
Incredible troubleshooting! Sir you need to stop apologizing, there is no need, because you do great work, and fantastic info and knowledge to the rest of us. Keep it up if you enjoy it 🤩
I feel for you with the extreme heat, cramped and uncomfortable quarters, all while trying to do the work. My back's always sore after working under a dash, or around the kick panel areas.
This case was hard for Eric being hot, upside down. Great video! Keep them coming, I am learning a lot. If I am not mistaken, the IR emitters for the wireless headset were illuminated.
Back in the day, information and technical training was scarce and at a premium price, the videos have helped me a ton as I'm still active in auto repair, just not in dealer setting, nevertheless great full for all the folks sharing, but one question I hv do videos interfere with techs and there ability to make billable hours, or as it appears not much of an effect, based on how busy u still are
You are no doubt very gifted . however in this test with the fuss"s do the same test but DON'T put the fuss's back in leave them out until you find the problem . by reinserting the fuss you wake up modules deny it power until you find the problem . i hope i helped cheers !
After watching this I am so happy to know it’s not just me. 😂 The batteries in the voltmeter died, the position you had to work in sucked, it was hot, etc. That’s about how it always goes for me.
Great video Eric. I was going to suggest trip the door latch/actuators so the vehicle “thinks” the doors are closed, but you did it before the end of the video. Always fun to record in one hand and remove DVD from ceiling with the other hand. Thanks for the video. They are always educational!
Fantastic as always Eric! Try looking for voltage ACROSS fuses, so you don't need to disturb them! (I'm out of commission for a short while. No vids until I get my computer data recovery)
typical voltage drop 5mv per amp across 15A fuse . Measuring parasitic currents this way can be done, but you need a voltmeter with 50 microvolt or better resolution .
Great video! I was following your wiring on Mitchel. Maybe you should have started with the door latches on all 4 doors closed but the doors open. That way you have access to the inside of your vehicle. Also make sure that it's the supply wire to the fuse box that's taking the amps and not any other line.
one tip after you found the correct fuse hook the meter to the fuse box where that fuse was that way if you wake up any modules you want have to wait for them to power down as meter hooked to the battery cable
@@lordjaashin the same ones Eric struggled with here, before starting I would prep all the doors by setting up the latches to have the door open but not have the interior lights on. Many times this meant setting up the trunk or rear hatch in the same way so that I had full access to the interior and didn't have to reset my sleep timer by opening a door. Also when possible I would test by measuring voltage drop across a fuse to see if a circuit was active rather than unplug and reinstall fuses which would wake up modules and cause me to take more time on a diag than necessary. Another thing that really helped was taking multiple pictures of the fuse box before I touched anything so that I could at least get it back to it's original starting point. Although they don't always show up with everything in the right place at least it wouldn't be my fault something was in the wrong slot. I had to implement these changes after a couple diags took me hours that they shouldn't have. Also Uni-t has a handheld amp clamp (UT210E) that is awesome for finding even very small amounts of current flow and it's like $50 using that I didn't have times where my connection to the battery would get disturbed and reset the sleep timers and I didn't take the risk of popping fuses inside my meter since some of those are not the easily found or easy to replace kind.
@@lordjaashin I truly don't think you'll be disappointed it's a really good tool and it has more applications than just parasitic draw diags I've used it many times for charging system diagnosis as well. Good luck with it
@@jwilkers1 I keep seeing the comment to test across the fuse. Is this either side of the fuse or from the fuse to ground. Sorry for the extremely uneducated question. Just trying to understand. Thanks
My 04 navigator is doing the same thing. I’m going to pull the 4 fuse and check since I can hear the dvd player making noises sparatically. Wish me luck.
Quick tip: close the door latch with a pocket screw driver to simulate the door being closed and you have full access to the interior with out having door ajar.
I’m more amazed by seeing a Navigator that still runs. They are definitely an embarrassment to Ford. Please invest in some long leads or make your own. Makes the job easier, especially when you are alone.
Great job Eric , I wonder how you go about charging for this type of job ? , looks like from start to finish its at least 4 hr ......here in Canada auto shops charge up to 100$ per hour , thats about 500 BUCKS !!! with taxes , fees , shop supply's etc.
Before you start, you should open all doors and latch them with a screwdriver, so you have access to everything. If you don't have a normal 'dumb' jump pack, you can park your own vehicle close and run jumper cables. Disconnecting that dead battery was a good move. When car is asleep, just measure millivolts across all the fuses and only pull the one that shows the highest millivolts value. If you pull them all one by one, for sure some modules will wake up on you. I really don't get why you set yourself up to having to climb through a window on a hot day. it was quite hilarious.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Between Eric here, Eric O and Eric the car guy, if you name your kid Eric they will grow up to be Awesome Auto Technicians. That's just science right there. Awesome work again!
Almost there lol
@@ErikTheVikingMechanic 🤣
I felt your pain upside down in that car. I always open doors and latch them at the start . Once you established the cause it was easiest fix ever. 👍
Hey use an Infrared Camera to find parasitic draw... You can see what fuse and or module has a load on it from the temperature difference... its pretty fun and very fast to find the suspected circuit..
after 48 years of strugling with electrical i purchased a flir tg167 first time i used it i found a glowing alt. i am sold. you rock my brother
I want to appreciate you and Oz mechanic. Thank you all for what you have done for me.
Nicely done my friend finding a parasitic draw in a Ford is so difficult because of the modules waking up all the time. You showed incredible patience waiting for everything to go back asleep thank you awesome video
Thank you for the video. If you don't feel like voltage drop testing the fuses while searching the draw you may want to pull fuse by fuse but not put them back in until you pulled all of them. That way you'll avoid waking up components and you don't have to wait for them to power down.
Its amazing to watch you disconnect wiring with one hand and still make the video with your other hand.
As Murphy dictates, you start removing fuses at one end, but Murphy makes it that you should have started at the opposite end. I feel for you Eric. It must have been a real pain... An excellent fault find and diagnosis... WELL DONE!!! 10/10
When I was dealing with the same problem, I just had made leads long enough to take multimeter in the car with me. So I didn't need to have a helper. Additional leads voltage drop was irrelevant.
If the DVD unit is still operational, perhaps you can install an on-off toggle switch on the housing to disconnect the power when not in use.
Maybe a firmware update woulda fixed the DVD player. It seems like it was not going to sleep when the car was turned off.
@@fredsalter1915 internal short but the op has the idea of a true solution. I actually did this on a GPS system. I installed a relay that was triggered by the ignition switch, usually these modules have direct power and another power circuit powers them on internally. A short would cause amp draw like this, very typical with radios too because they have direct current and ground.
And if you see 19:36 the dark spot on the right of the DVD has like 2 small purple lights. Which I think are the Infrared LEDs to read the remote controls input. Indicating it was on
30 yrs ago, a VW convertible had a parasitic drain on the battery. I was by myself, so I made long leads, hooked up a volt meter, battery was draining .01 volts per minute. I followed the exact same process. Battery started at 13.31 volts. I pulled every fuse, no change. Battery was down to 11.55 volts. I pulled a non-fused, grey wire. Voltage jumped to 12.55 volts. I checked to see what did not work. I did not have a wiring schematic. All things worked. Business colleague later told me that the light that came on to indicate a gear shift was required no longer worked. (it was a stick shift). Business colleague had brought his daughters vehicle to a number of electrical shops in Jacksonville, Fl. He asked me to check as a favor.
Great detective work, very educational and entertaining. The heat and humidity in cramped spaces must have been unbearable but you overcame it and kept moving forward. You are doing a good job!
I'm glad you said something about letting Fords time out for about 40 mins to an hr. Service data says this, and covers all vehicles from about '00 to about '11. It has been my experience that the smart junction fuse box battery saver relay sticks, and will cause about a 400mA draw. Sometimes it's just the relay, other times the magic box. If so, the box must be programmed to make the remote key fob work, even with the same P/N. Glad you found the issue!
Ive been watching these vids for about two weeks now, u have earned my subscription.
Eric, Excellent job is finding the parasitic drain. You did a fantastic job in explaining the step by step method of finding the problem even a novice would understand.
Thanks for making this video. It was the same issue draining my battery. There must be an internal issue with these overhead dvd players. Important thing to know is that fuse 21 is the instrument cluster. At first I thought this was my issue. This circuit takes 40 minutes to go to sleep. If you pull the fuse leave it out and test the other fuses. If you put it back in you will have to wait another 40 minutes for it to go to sleep again.
You did it right, good diagnosis! It's those 45 minute waits that are tough, and Ford's Smart Junction Box can be real joy to work on.
Extremely useful video. You provide an incredible service to your viewers. Now I know why my back hurts so damn bad as I have contorted myself in very much the same way trying to repair our family vehicles. Thanks again. Great job. Thanks for reminding viewers about "waking up' modules and how to avoid doing so.
Incredible troubleshooting!
Sir you need to stop apologizing, there is no need, because you do great work, and fantastic info and knowledge to the rest of us. Keep it up if you enjoy it 🤩
Stay true and kind to yourself. Thank you for recording!
On a truck that old I’d wire that DVD player to a key on source and call it done. Great job ,excellent job on the diagnostics as always!
I have a 2005 LN and it just started doing this after a battery change. I don't have a DVD player in the Base model.
Thanks for this!
Man really great video. My kids mom having issue with her battery draining every two days. I told her she need to drive the truck.
I feel for you with the extreme heat, cramped and uncomfortable quarters, all while trying to do the work.
My back's always sore after working under a dash, or around the kick panel areas.
great video and the moral of the story is it's always the last fuse...👍
So many gadgets, so many problems... Luxury comes at the cost of dependability. Excellent video. The thumbnail photo is fucking hilarious.
This case was hard for Eric being hot, upside down.
Great video! Keep them coming, I am learning a lot.
If I am not mistaken, the IR emitters for the wireless headset were illuminated.
Great video as usual Eric! Thanks man! I just did a draw on a 2006 z71. It was factory fog lights !
Like your approach to isolating the problem.
Back in the day, information and technical training was scarce and at a premium price, the videos have helped me a ton as I'm still active in auto repair, just not in dealer setting, nevertheless great full for all the folks sharing, but one question I hv do videos interfere with techs and there ability to make billable hours, or as it appears not much of an effect, based on how busy u still are
From UAE watching, You did well man... I like the way u patiently sorted things out. Nice one
Open circuit it, I do it all the time. Nice Ammeter guys
Exactly because of this video i did my drain check on my Vw mk4 👍🏻
You are no doubt very gifted . however in this test with the fuss"s do the same test but DON'T put the fuss's back in leave them out until you find the problem . by reinserting the fuss you wake up modules deny it power until you find the problem . i hope i helped cheers !
A semi easy one, and good fault finding technique... Well done.
Muy interesante nunca pensé q ese sería el problema nunca me a pasado gracias por tu tiempo para enseñar .
After watching this I am so happy to know it’s not just me. 😂 The batteries in the voltmeter died, the position you had to work in sucked, it was hot, etc. That’s about how it always goes for me.
Eric keep up your good work you help alot of people .
Bad ass dude! bad ass way of diagnosing the problem
Learned something new today. I really like your train of thinking....
You need an amp hound. You can just touch the top of the fuse without pulling the fuses to see the amp draw.
Great video Eric. I was going to suggest trip the door latch/actuators so the vehicle “thinks” the doors are closed, but you did it before the end of the video. Always fun to record in one hand and remove DVD from ceiling with the other hand. Thanks for the video. They are always educational!
Fantastic as always Eric!
Try looking for voltage ACROSS fuses, so you don't need to disturb them!
(I'm out of commission for a short while. No vids until I get my computer data recovery)
Yep... there is a table out there for reference
typical voltage drop 5mv per amp across 15A fuse . Measuring parasitic currents this way can be done, but you need a voltmeter with 50 microvolt or better resolution .
This just goes to show how technology is coming and going faster and faster.
Great job
Remember less is better. They want us to buy all this extra crap with causing more problems later. I miss the 80's/90's
Great video! I was following your wiring on Mitchel. Maybe you should have started with the door latches on all 4 doors closed but the doors open. That way you have access to the inside of your vehicle. Also make sure that it's the supply wire to the fuse box that's taking the amps and not any other line.
one tip after you found the correct fuse hook the meter to the fuse box where that fuse was that way if you wake up any modules you want have to wait for them to power down as meter hooked to the battery cable
Eric dropping the F-bomb. It's about time! LOL! Fantastic vid, sir. Shoulda opened all doors originally.
Great video bro,my Navi is doing the same thing most likely is the same problem...👍👍👍👍
Nice find Eric. Go get something cold to drink and cool off. Stay safe and well Artie the heat is bad up here in New York also. 👍
Great work Eric. I would recommend that you get a nice garage to take it to and get an air conditioner for it so you can work in comfort 😉
great video! I like the methodical checking of the problems :)
Very nice video. It's very educational. Following you from Saudi Arabia. Thanks
So much fun watching you brother!
Appreciate the effort you make to bring us great videos. Awesome.
Awesome work. i never would have thought that to be an issue
This is why I always say, the less features a car has the better.
I went through a few difficult parasitic draw diags before I changed my procedure to speed things up and make it more streamlined.
so what procedures did you changed?
@@lordjaashin the same ones Eric struggled with here, before starting I would prep all the doors by setting up the latches to have the door open but not have the interior lights on. Many times this meant setting up the trunk or rear hatch in the same way so that I had full access to the interior and didn't have to reset my sleep timer by opening a door. Also when possible I would test by measuring voltage drop across a fuse to see if a circuit was active rather than unplug and reinstall fuses which would wake up modules and cause me to take more time on a diag than necessary. Another thing that really helped was taking multiple pictures of the fuse box before I touched anything so that I could at least get it back to it's original starting point. Although they don't always show up with everything in the right place at least it wouldn't be my fault something was in the wrong slot. I had to implement these changes after a couple diags took me hours that they shouldn't have. Also Uni-t has a handheld amp clamp (UT210E) that is awesome for finding even very small amounts of current flow and it's like $50 using that I didn't have times where my connection to the battery would get disturbed and reset the sleep timers and I didn't take the risk of popping fuses inside my meter since some of those are not the easily found or easy to replace kind.
@@jwilkers1 you have given very good pointers. I'll try to buy that amp clamp you mentioned.
@@lordjaashin I truly don't think you'll be disappointed it's a really good tool and it has more applications than just parasitic draw diags I've used it many times for charging system diagnosis as well. Good luck with it
@@jwilkers1 I keep seeing the comment to test across the fuse. Is this either side of the fuse or from the fuse to ground. Sorry for the extremely uneducated question. Just trying to understand. Thanks
21:30 You are so cute when you explained the family situation haha kids grown !!!
Experience diagnosis amigo nice video. Pwro. Tengo una preguta es normal kw puedes kitar y poner fusi Keno se tiene ke medir con voltmeter
My 04 navigator is doing the same thing. I’m going to pull the 4 fuse and check since I can hear the dvd player making noises sparatically. Wish me luck.
You are the man! I'm only about half as good at this than you are
My new favorite channel🔥
Great diagnostic. 👍
Quick tip: close the door latch with a pocket screw driver to simulate the door being closed and you have full access to the interior with out having door ajar.
These are such awesome vids, i learn so much! thanks buddy
No need to replace battery terminal, just use a post shim. Got a video on my channel of how that works.
Great job Eric and Great video thanks for sharing.
Hey man thank you for this video !!! Appreciate your time and effort
Awesome Explanation, fantastic
Good idea to tape to the door buttons down or trip every latch first even on boot and bonnet, yeah yeah, I’m an Aussie, ok hood and trunk.
What ever you got paid for that diagnosis, it wasnt enough. Certainly earned your money on that one.
It is very important to place your foot on the brake, “after you have already braked”.
You're a genius. Thank you for this video
Very impressive work.
Awesome job guy's, thanks for the training!
Great tutorial. I need one of them labscopes.
You the best from Richard in the UK love the Chanel
Nice troubleshooting 👏👏
Awesome video - always learning from you. Thank you.
Great videos as always...
fantastic job Eric
Eric O, latches the door locks with the doors open. Easier than climbing through the window 😂
Great detailed video, thank you.
Great diagnostic video.
I’m more amazed by seeing a Navigator that still runs. They are definitely an embarrassment to Ford.
Please invest in some long leads or make your own. Makes the job easier, especially when you are alone.
Love the energy your channel rocks keep it up
Great job Eric , I wonder how you go about charging for this type of job ? , looks like from start to finish its at least 4 hr ......here in Canada auto shops charge up to 100$ per hour , thats about 500 BUCKS !!! with taxes , fees , shop supply's etc.
Another great video! Keep up the good work!
Outstanding job Eric bro
wow working in that heat.thanks
Great video Brotha‼️‼️👏👏👏👏
You always do good work bro! Keep it up
Great troubleshooting!!!!
Thank you. Very entertaining
Love your trouble shooting skills man.
Nice video as always Eric 👍👍
Had a friend called Eric He was a good mechanic
Before you start, you should open all doors and latch them with a screwdriver, so you have access to everything. If you don't have a normal 'dumb' jump pack, you can park your own vehicle close and run jumper cables. Disconnecting that dead battery was a good move. When car is asleep, just measure millivolts across all the fuses and only pull the one that shows the highest millivolts value. If you pull them all one by one, for sure some modules will wake up on you.
I really don't get why you set yourself up to having to climb through a window on a hot day. it was quite hilarious.
Good job