Do you have any idea why the radiator hose started leaking after installation? We didnt even touch that hose, as far as I remember. We adjusted the clamp, and it seems like it's okay. But the fan is absolutely going crazy. Is that normal?
Is there a rubber part to connect the metal pipe onto the turbo aswell.. nice job and it sounds like it's got blow off valves now aswell.. is that the standard noise after fitting the kit? Cheers
Do the intakes receive cold air from the factory air ducts in the front of the vehicle? Im not sure if I saw a connection to the ducts on the heat shields.
I would never make any modification to the car as it is well balanced the way it is, so does not need anything extra. Think about why major car manufacturers do not fit that sort of air filter or piping on their cars and never will. The boy racer market is one that provides new victims every year as it never dries up. People that can not afford the car they want will pay thousands ofr bolt-on bits that do NOTHING for performance, they make matters worse in most cases or just cause damage. For 20 years I tested every kind of air filter on the market on petrol and diesel engines with carbs, fuel injection and turbos. NOT ONE bolt on air filter made the slightest bit of increased performance. What they did was caused damage and a loss of performance on a rolling road and created much more noise. You can hear the air being restricted - manufacturers lie to cover this restriction noise and say it is "induction roar" to try and claim it is somehow making power. It isn't, it is air being stopped. Foam filters were rubbish, they degraded in no time, even when covered in oil they would sag and degrade. Cotton between wire mesh and the ones covere din oil were just as bad. The oil would come off them in turbo cars and end up over MAF filters, one of them cost me £200 during a test when oil from a K&N broke it. The company refused to honour their guarantee so I can not trust them or recommend any of their products. The problem with small air filters is that they have a small surface area some 11 times smaller than the correct paper one. That means holes have to be more than 11 times bigger than in the paper one to even pass the same amount of air - that is when it doesn't get filtered as the holes are far too big. You are allowing unfiltered air in to the engine and it doesn't meet the standards the engine required. With some you might as well just completely remove the filter. With small filters, they block much faster and performance drops completely - but you can be further scammed in to buying cleaning kits and oil ! A paper filter can pass as much FILTERED air as required by engines at FULL RPM continuously even when 80% blocked. They are much better. So called indiction kits are useless as they suck hot air from around the engine and lower performance. Cold air feeds are a joke, the filter doesn't know to draw air from a pipe and not 360degrees around it, so they make no difference and are for show. If you want to buy useless products that do nothing for power or torque, go ahead, I guarantee they will be in the bin after a few months and the original paper filter back on. Cars are designed in a particular way for a reason. The only difference you could make to original intakes and air filter housing is to maybe add some heat shielding, but effects are minimal. Don't confuse NOISE with POWER, the same way as you should not confuse SMOKE with POWER on diesels, it usually means something is broken or some idiot is pumping excess diesel in during the exhaust cycle for show.
Just remove the bov recurculating tube frim the intake and bov, block off the intake side with a chair bottom. I have friends with turbo k5s and we did it
My local Kia dealer advised that Cai's are fine, only if you mess with the car's ECU will you default the warranty. So I will get Cai's at some stage as well as rams.
Very nice set up! I love how clean this is! Will definitely be buying this for my Stinger but I want to upgrade the turbos as well.
That turbo whistle is beautiful
I have truly enjoyed watching this, would never have the guts to do it myself though. Thanks for uploading!
We got it bro👍🏽! Lol .. I feel the same with my 22 G70. I gotta watch all the stinger vids.
Great video...I picked up the K and N because of you thanks!!!!
I have this setup, as far as removing ,cleaning and re-installing do you only have to remove the filter part only it's very tight clearance?
Do you have any idea why the radiator hose started leaking after installation? We didnt even touch that hose, as far as I remember. We adjusted the clamp, and it seems like it's okay. But the fan is absolutely going crazy.
Is that normal?
Unless you have a tune and exhaust , I wouldn’t expect any real HP gains, but the sound alone is worth it IMO. You can hear them turbos more.
Is there a rubber part to connect the metal pipe onto the turbo aswell.. nice job and it sounds like it's got blow off valves now aswell.. is that the standard noise after fitting the kit?
Cheers
Nice stroll through the bottom of mt Kembla at the end I see. 🤙🏻
Did you need a tune after applying this intake?
And do you know how much torque you’ve gained?
I dont know if that can really be considered a real “CAI”
Lol.
Very cool video. Thanks for sharing.
Do the intakes receive cold air from the factory air ducts in the front of the vehicle? Im not sure if I saw a connection to the ducts on the heat shields.
they do
I would never make any modification to the car as it is well balanced the way it is, so does not need anything extra.
Think about why major car manufacturers do not fit that sort of air filter or piping on their cars and never will.
The boy racer market is one that provides new victims every year as it never dries up. People that can not afford the car they want will pay thousands ofr bolt-on bits that do NOTHING for performance, they make matters worse in most cases or just cause damage.
For 20 years I tested every kind of air filter on the market on petrol and diesel engines with carbs, fuel injection and turbos. NOT ONE bolt on air filter made the slightest bit of increased performance. What they did was caused damage and a loss of performance on a rolling road and created much more noise. You can hear the air being restricted - manufacturers lie to cover this restriction noise and say it is "induction roar" to try and claim it is somehow making power. It isn't, it is air being stopped.
Foam filters were rubbish, they degraded in no time, even when covered in oil they would sag and degrade.
Cotton between wire mesh and the ones covere din oil were just as bad. The oil would come off them in turbo cars and end up over MAF filters, one of them cost me £200 during a test when oil from a K&N broke it. The company refused to honour their guarantee so I can not trust them or recommend any of their products.
The problem with small air filters is that they have a small surface area some 11 times smaller than the correct paper one.
That means holes have to be more than 11 times bigger than in the paper one to even pass the same amount of air - that is when it doesn't get filtered as the holes are far too big. You are allowing unfiltered air in to the engine and it doesn't meet the standards the engine required. With some you might as well just completely remove the filter.
With small filters, they block much faster and performance drops completely - but you can be further scammed in to buying cleaning kits and oil ! A paper filter can pass as much FILTERED air as required by engines at FULL RPM continuously even when 80% blocked. They are much better.
So called indiction kits are useless as they suck hot air from around the engine and lower performance. Cold air feeds are a joke, the filter doesn't know to draw air from a pipe and not 360degrees around it, so they make no difference and are for show.
If you want to buy useless products that do nothing for power or torque, go ahead, I guarantee they will be in the bin after a few months and the original paper filter back on. Cars are designed in a particular way for a reason. The only difference you could make to original intakes and air filter housing is to maybe add some heat shielding, but effects are minimal.
Don't confuse NOISE with POWER, the same way as you should not confuse SMOKE with POWER on diesels, it usually means something is broken or some idiot is pumping excess diesel in during the exhaust cycle for show.
The intake hose on the driver side had to be cut when I did it
Do you mean the bov hose? Your supposed to swap the hoses in this install per the instructions for a perfect fit.
Same
Do you have to disconnect the battery??????👍🏻
NO
what could we buy now in 2021? it was ban and out of stock on K&N website,do you have something plan B?
Is a tune needed for the intake?
how do you get that rubber seal around the heat shields
Just pushes on - little bit of a pain but not to hard. It has a slit on it and you just gotta work it around the shield
What’s the exhaust on this stinger ?
factory
Good
Does it makes this pppssshhh sound when your driving like accelerating and decelerating as well?
When you back off from heavy throttle, you get that wastegate sound. The K&N intake makes the sound much more obvious than the standard setup.
Just remove the bov recurculating tube frim the intake and bov, block off the intake side with a chair bottom. I have friends with turbo k5s and we did it
Brandon Raner what does closing that do?
does exhaust and intake upgrades to the stinger affect your warranty
Victor Smolica it shouldn't, but that depends on your dealer.
My local Kia dealer advised that Cai's are fine, only if you mess with the car's ECU will you default the warranty. So I will get Cai's at some stage as well as rams.
They should have an opening in the front, to let some fresh air come in from the grill.
They do! Car also has a giant front mount intercooler which... Draws air into the front of the car lol
Any HP gains ?
They say about 9hp gain... Probably more for sound than performance.
@@horseome1 I'll take the 9 HP too lol
@@Twittavelli Never Hurts ;-)
without a tune all those manufacture claims are b.s.
@@eeshunique Wrong... Computer adjust for fuel air mixture on it's own..
the computer shows any engine error when you put in this intake? Or you have to reprograme it?
No need to reprogram it. The computer adjusts automatically. Best result after about an hour of driving.
I would think that you should always reprogram after a mood like that.
What exhaust?
Bastuck Exhaust is a good choice 😉
th-cam.com/video/9eAA7P5JRc4/w-d-xo.html
Fucking love it
Exhaust Sport/Race (Complete with downpipe or after downpipe)
th-cam.com/video/9eAA7P5JRc4/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/IHhzPm00xjY/w-d-xo.html
This car bulshit