Thank you for sharing knowledge, but don't shake solder joints before they set, that's how you get cold cold joints. Hopefully I can give back some tips to help you and others doing this repair. 1. The commenter below saying use a solder sucker is correct. You heat the joint with your iron and the sucker just pulls all the liquid solder out.. so there is no need for the drilling steps. 2. Don't shake solder joints "to get the solder to pernitrate the joint" use a dab of flux paste. Lots of people think using rosin core solder is the same but it isn't as good. Personally I use both. Putting a tiny touch of the flux on the board and on the leg of the component ensures the moment liquid solder touches the metal, it will be pulled into all treated surfaces. Whenever you solder anything you should Flux the parts pit it in place heat the part with the iron add the solder to the point where the iron is touching the part move the solder away move the iron away wait at least 2 seconds and watch the liquid solidify / don't move anything until the joint is solid or you risk a cold solder joint. If anyone isn't sure what that is, just look it up on youtube, they are one of the leading causes of circuit failure Thanks again for your video, I'm going through this with my hot tub right now and your vides were helpful :)
I jumped my heater to the 220v pump1 speed1 wire ..am i doing thing bad? Since the pump1 start every hour on my tub it will heat at the same time... the relay you show in the preview video doesnt have 220v output so i think that relay is fried too.. so i cannot jump it to there
I ordered the relays from Allied electronics for $3.06 each...but if you would rather pay this "Spa Guy" $34.99 plus shipping it's up to you. Also you should not use his "kit" which has uninsulated QC female connectors....you can get the insulated female QC connectors from Allied electronics also. These will have yellow insulation such as 3M FDI10-250Q. Also use 10 AWG wire for your jumpers. Not 12 or 14 AWG which are not rated high enough for the amps they will carry.
These are the most interesting of your videos for me. Would love to see more about the circuit boards.
More coming soon..
Thank you for sharing knowledge, but don't shake solder joints before they set, that's how you get cold cold joints. Hopefully I can give back some tips to help you and others doing this repair.
1. The commenter below saying use a solder sucker is correct. You heat the joint with your iron and the sucker just pulls all the liquid solder out.. so there is no need for the drilling steps.
2. Don't shake solder joints "to get the solder to pernitrate the joint" use a dab of flux paste. Lots of people think using rosin core solder is the same but it isn't as good. Personally I use both. Putting a tiny touch of the flux on the board and on the leg of the component ensures the moment liquid solder touches the metal, it will be pulled into all treated surfaces.
Whenever you solder anything you should
Flux the parts
pit it in place
heat the part with the iron
add the solder to the point where the iron is touching the part
move the solder away
move the iron away
wait at least 2 seconds and watch the liquid solidify / don't move anything until the joint is solid or you risk a cold solder joint.
If anyone isn't sure what that is, just look it up on youtube, they are one of the leading causes of circuit failure
Thanks again for your video, I'm going through this with my hot tub right now and your vides were helpful :)
a solder sucker would pull that solder out quick if you are just trying to clear it for the new relay to go into the holes. definitely check it out.
I have exactly the situation right now. How much would it be to do this repair?
I jumped my heater to the 220v pump1 speed1 wire ..am i doing thing bad? Since the pump1 start every hour on my tub it will heat at the same time... the relay you show in the preview video doesnt have 220v output so i think that relay is fried too.. so i cannot jump it to there
Got a part number for the relay?
I ordered the relays from Allied electronics for $3.06 each...but if you would rather pay this "Spa Guy" $34.99 plus shipping it's up to you.
Also you should not use his "kit" which has uninsulated QC female connectors....you can get the insulated female QC connectors from Allied electronics also. These will have yellow insulation such as 3M FDI10-250Q.
Also use 10 AWG wire for your jumpers. Not 12 or 14 AWG which are not rated high enough for the amps they will carry.