I've never taken the time to follow the path on these......this is great! Perfect video. Thank you! I saved a lady from buying an entire board earlier today.
Well well well..I am so grateful my friend I have a 6100 failsafe with a 5.5kw my boards identical..This fixed my issue using the jumpers..Its -3c Ive been trying to figure it out for 3 days I also replaced my old 8yr element it was still functioning but I replaced it anyway it did its test fire and to my shear enjoyment the legs went hot 242v..You Rock!! Thank You!
Thank you so much for posting this video. I would not have been able to diagnose my issue without this. It turned out my relay went bad, the same one that had the cold solder joint in this video. It would click like it was closing, but was not actually closing the load circuit. This saved me from blowing $600 for a whole new board. The Spa Guy is the best hot tub repair and troubleshooting resource in the country!
Thanks a million for your videos!! This was exactly my problem. I bought a solid used spa that needed this and a few other minor repairs and now I’m “tightened-up” and headed to the tub! :) I’ll be ordering a new cover from you next and I’m a customer of yours for life!
Spa guy is the BEST!!!!! very few people will answer the phone and help, you pointed me in right direction fixed heating relay not activating, on balboa board thanks !!!! He knows hot tubs
I wish you were here... Ive got a similar issue on a 2006 Artesian Captiva 52. FLO code and went thru all the norm checks and I believe its a relay on the board. No heat and recirculating pump runs for a cycle and stops. Winter is here and wondering if jumpers would fix the issue safely
So what happens if I don’t have 208-230 on the bottom relay outgoing? Bad temp sensor or bad relay? Does have voltage on top relay and jumper to the bottom.
Thanks for the info but it’s very hard to see what and where you connected the black jumper wires to on the k2 and k3 relays and the board itself also this repair doesn’t work if your relays are also bad which unfortunately is what I believe is my problem after I repaired the bad solder on K2 and added the jumper wires. So hopefully after k2 replacement I will be back in business I don’t quite understand how my tub is even remotely warm with k2 keeping the heating circuit open!!
A friend called me with a problem. His spa was overfilled, he got in and displaced a bunch of water over the sides with pump and heater running. Twenty minutes later his spa turned off and wouldn't work again. He called an electrician and the guy disconnected the wiring at the board and at the breaker. Today I reconnected wiring correctly at the Balboa breaker, and at the board. Switched the breaker and it tripped immediately. I disconnected neutral at the board, and reset the breaker, and found 120V at the neutral terminal. All fuses were above 2ohms when checked. All input is greatly appreciated
I don't have a tab on the red relay to check, and I do have 120 from the white and the open terminal on the bottom relay,, but as you no power from that terminal to the element, can I run a jumper from that relay to the element lead?
Thanks for your video, same issue here with a vs board, i did a cold solder but only got 11 volts could it be that i mist my solder or i got other issues
Hey man! I did the jumpers on mine. I don’t have a volt meter just a multi meter. Any suggestions. I still Not getting any heat out of my heating element. We replaced with a new element and verified continuity. Any thought?!
On mine, the jumper wire between K2 and K3 relays was completely burned. I checked both relays with a 9 volt battery across the coil terminals and continutity on the power terminals. Good thing I did. Coils for both relays activated (clicked) but only K2 showed continuity when 9 volt was applied to the coil. That means K3 relay is blown. Always check the relays because the power contacts inside may also be blown.
i came across your video as i have an identical problem which will require the relay to be desoldered and new soldered, i was intrigued with the possibility of having a short cut you mentioned by adding jumpers. replayed your video several times paused it to review your explanation of how to, the problem i couldnt comprehend was that adding the jumpers the way you did was just tracing the solder joints with jumpers but still having to go thru the damaged relay which of course having the cold solder joint problem there the last jumper you added from the damaged relay to the open pin next to the heater brass jumper has no power hence impossible to heat. By no means am i trying to reprove you but can you explain how your repair caused it to work?
I see you've circumvented the relays on the right. Is there a way to circumvent the relay on the left. I've replaced this relay but it still does not work. The back of the board is burned and I suspect there was more damage than just that relay? Thanks
My VS 100 has a Balboa spa PN 56296-02 board ! I have no power to my heater. The heater checked out ok. Approx. 14ohms. I took out the board and didnt see any burned marks or obvious problems. How can I check the relays? They are soldered into the board and no jumper connections like you have.
I'm getting the exact same voltage as you everywhere, with no cold solder joint... any idea why is this?? When testing the electrodes with the board connected, I'm not getting any power but the relays are drawing the right amount of amps. It's a brand new VS500z board from Balboa.
I have a Balboa VS system in a Cayanna Valley Spa. I mistaken thought I had turned off the breaker when draining the water. I have since refilled the spa, but the spa no longer heats. All lights are on and water is flowing, the heating light comes on, but the temp remains unchanged. I looked inside the box and everything looks good, including breakers and surge protectors. Any suggestions?
Hello friend, question on VS pack and expansion relay board for pump 2. Does the "ext relay" j60 need to be programed to run pump 2? Setup is 220v. I added twin 5hp pumps. I added the expansion board so I don't blow the main fuse. The pumps drew to much current. Pump 2 does come on. But un controllable. Almost like it is a 24 hr cir pump. It will come on when pump 1 is in low mode. Do I have to assign pump 2 to ext relay in test mode? This is an older 2007 leisure bay celebrity. With a VS pack and a old 4 button lcd screen. Ty
HI again, I have got my balboa circuit board back from the repairers. It warms only to 29 degrees even if I have it set for 38 degrees. All relays have been changed. When I lowered the heat to 26, I see the temp light goes off. And I hear a small click. Then I put it back to 38 and get a small click. The heat light then flashes and then is steady after 90secs. but it is not going over 29 ? The fuses look fine, but the big main one is not glass, so would need to check that one. I checked the AC current on the element, with it all powered up, And it read nothing. is this strange or what? The element is warmish to touch not hot to burn yourself. I need to switch it off now to check, the ohms. just checked the ohms, around 18,9-19? What does this mean if it is not around 11 or 12? I don't know where the problem is, any ideas?
Worked like a charm! Thanks so much. Vkv502 54380-02 vkv502R1a circuit board. I was reading 0 across the heating element and once jumper added 240v. Boom!
I was wondering if you could help me repair my hot tub mother board or give me advice. I already replaced the heater sensors and that is not the issue and the heater works but it does not stop at the set temperature, it keeps heating until it reaches 110 degrees where the emergency overheat relay shuts the heater down but it then gives me an error message and I have to hit any of the buttons on the readout to reset. It is the relay that opens up when it reaches the temperature and breaks the circuit. They don't make my motherboard anymore so I am left trying to fix it. Any ideas on how to trace the relay that is not working? Everything else is ok except for the lights which stopped working after I messed around last fall so I think I may have a loose connection with them as they worked fine before I started trying to find the source of the heater issues. I have a CS9000 which has 5 pumps so it is a complicated motherboard. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Clay
The second relay is the turn on relay if it is not closing it could be that the system is not calling for heat meaning the temp is not set to call for heat or you are in mode that will not call for heat except for certain conditions. Like if you have it in the Economy mode it will only call for heat during the filter cycle and if you have it in sleep mode with will not call for heat at all. The relay could simply be bad but that is not the norm..
Hi, thank you for the excellent video. I have the exact same issue in my 2010 Grand Cayman. The jumper wire was over heated, I do not have 240v to the element. I will be trying this repair. Thanks again, excellent video.
What if the heat light isn't coming on I've turned heat up it was flashing earlier had 240 on the element but now no light and 120 on each leg of element to ground
Man. Thank you SO much for sharing. Had the issue, and your video did the trick. I’m using an 18-gauge wire for the jumper with some ¼” clips. The wire is heating slightly. Do you think I should have a heavier wire? Thanks again!
Is there a way to contact you with a picture? I have a board that blew a relay. There’s also a very small component that also looks damaged. I’m trying to identify it so I can replace it. Looks like a resistor or a diode just to the left of the heater relay. With my phone camera I can see that it says what I believe is sj 68a and the symbol resembles one I found on google called vishay
Great video I now have an understanding of how it heats mt tub is saying heater too hot?? Both m7 sensors appear good and flow is good, could it be a relay sticking ? or? MXBO501X PN 56549-01
Great video the best out there, really explained how my system worked. In Colorado so freezing is a big risk so trying to fix myself, I thought I had the same problem but slightly different - No panel errors, circulation pump running, Heating element tests good, heating light is on, relay on the left closed, on the right first relay closed, second open. Video helped me find that my second relay is open, heat light is on but the relay is open so can't jump that relay or as I understand the heat will not shut off. Any ideas what can cause that or other testing I can do? Can I replace the relay, I assume that is not an option so something is telling that relay to stay open or it failed? But if it is system telling it to open then seems like the light would be off or there would be an error message. Thanks for any suggestions!
Sorry to bother you on a Sunday. Great video; My problem appears to be at the very first relay because I never have 205V anywhere beyond the first tab on that relay (even with the heater light on). Is it possible that the fuse located immediately above that tab (just above where the original jumper is shown on your video)? If not, can I fix the problem with a different jumper?
My 3 way terminal block length 1 1/2 x 1/2 has burned out any ideas where I can find a used replacement? And do you know why it burned out in the first place deanr6761@yahoo.com
Do you know what error codes these mean: 100, 114, 28, and 120?? I have a Master Spa Legend series, 2005 model. We just had a brand new circuit board put in less than 6 months ago. But my husband was flipping breakers on and off trying to figure out which breaker was a hall light and it was after that I noticed the next day the breaker was tripped and not on. I have called Master Spa and somehow they have no idea what those 4 codes mean. It is extremely frustrating. and their local dealer guys who came could not help either. I turned the power off and did a complete scrub down of the filters and got any debris out, put back in, and it still isn't heating. Pumps and lights work fine. It is just very odd that those codes come up and I can't find literally anything anywhere on the net of someone else posting those same error codes and Master Spa not knowing what they mean either. :/
Mine just keeps saying 18.88 I replaced the element it kept blowing breaker and burned the board Replaced sensors in the balboa Ran through everything let it do its process worked for a day now just says 18.88 and the top buttons won’t function but it turns on and is stuck in 18.88 cal spa
You give a Lotta great information but you can’t see anything because your hands are blocking everything you’re talking about. I wish I could see what you were talking about putting the testers on what areas. The second really mine doesn’t have a spike coming out like yours does
Something tells me you wouldn't even be happy with a a brand new BullFrog Spa. This man is an angel that got his wings clipped and sent to Earth to help us humans with our hot tubs as a punishment. He probably got in trouble with the Creator for repoing prayers for new hot tubs! Always in my prayers Spa Guy!
I've never taken the time to follow the path on these......this is great! Perfect video. Thank you! I saved a lady from buying an entire board earlier today.
Did you ever find out what was the issue? Please reply I'm having the same issue
@@shaneb8453 need more info, its been awhile since video comment. whats going on with the hot tub?
Well well well..I am so grateful my friend I have a 6100 failsafe with a 5.5kw my boards identical..This fixed my issue using the jumpers..Its -3c Ive been trying to figure it out for 3 days I also replaced my old 8yr element it was still functioning but I replaced it anyway it did its test fire and to my shear enjoyment the legs went hot 242v..You Rock!! Thank You!
Thank you so much for posting this video. I would not have been able to diagnose my issue without this. It turned out my relay went bad, the same one that had the cold solder joint in this video. It would click like it was closing, but was not actually closing the load circuit. This saved me from blowing $600 for a whole new board.
The Spa Guy is the best hot tub repair and troubleshooting resource in the country!
Ok wow you just saved me $600 bud. Firm handshakes thank you so much.
Thanks a million for your videos!! This was exactly my problem. I bought a solid used spa that needed this and a few other minor repairs and now I’m “tightened-up” and headed to the tub! :)
I’ll be ordering a new cover from you next and I’m a customer of yours for life!
Wow good stuff! Man knows hot tubs! ty sir for sharing!
Spa guy is the BEST!!!!! very few people will answer the phone and help, you pointed me in right direction fixed heating relay not activating, on balboa board thanks !!!! He knows hot tubs
Learned something today - Billy you are the Guru
So I had given up on my Tub in Minnesota and came across this video... Worked excellent and I'm so happy to have my Hot Tub back!
Thanks
I wish you were here... Ive got a similar issue on a 2006 Artesian Captiva 52. FLO code and went thru all the norm checks and I believe its a relay on the board. No heat and recirculating pump runs for a cycle and stops. Winter is here and wondering if jumpers would fix the issue safely
thank you videos still helping the DIY people
So what happens if I don’t have 208-230 on the bottom relay outgoing? Bad temp sensor or bad relay? Does have voltage on top relay and jumper to the bottom.
You rock!!! Great video. One little jumper saved me $1000. I was back soaking up the heat by diner time. Thank you!!
Awesome..
Thanks for the info but it’s very hard to see what and where you connected the black jumper wires to on the k2 and k3 relays and the board itself also this repair doesn’t work if your relays are also bad which unfortunately is what I believe is my problem after I repaired the bad solder on K2 and added the jumper wires. So hopefully after k2 replacement I will be back in business I don’t quite understand how my tub is even remotely warm with k2 keeping the heating circuit open!!
I suspect that's 12 gauge wire for the jumpers, like the other jumpers on the board? Thanks so much for this amazing video. Sooooo useful.
A friend called me with a problem. His spa was overfilled, he got in and displaced a bunch of water over the sides with pump and heater running. Twenty minutes later his spa turned off and wouldn't work again. He called an electrician and the guy disconnected the wiring at the board and at the breaker. Today I reconnected wiring correctly at the Balboa breaker, and at the board. Switched the breaker and it tripped immediately.
I disconnected neutral at the board, and reset the breaker, and found 120V at the neutral terminal.
All fuses were above 2ohms when checked.
All input is greatly appreciated
I don't have a tab on the red relay to check, and I do have 120 from the white and the open terminal on the bottom relay,, but as you no power from that terminal to the element, can I run a jumper from that relay to the element lead?
Thanks for your video, same issue here with a vs board, i did a cold solder but only got 11 volts could it be that i mist my solder or i got other issues
Hey man! I did the jumpers on mine. I don’t have a volt meter just a multi meter. Any suggestions. I still
Not getting any heat out of my heating element. We replaced with a new element and verified continuity. Any thought?!
On mine, the jumper wire between K2 and K3 relays was completely burned. I checked both relays with a 9 volt battery across the coil terminals and continutity on the power terminals. Good thing I did. Coils for both relays activated (clicked) but only K2 showed continuity when 9 volt was applied to the coil. That means K3 relay is blown. Always check the relays because the power contacts inside may also be blown.
i came across your video as i have an identical problem which will require the relay to be desoldered and new soldered, i was intrigued with the possibility of having a short cut you mentioned by adding jumpers. replayed your video several times paused it to review your explanation of how to, the problem i couldnt comprehend was that adding the jumpers the way you did was just tracing the solder joints with jumpers but still having to go thru the damaged relay which of course having the cold solder joint problem there the last jumper you added from the damaged relay to the open pin next to the heater brass jumper has no power hence impossible to heat. By no means am i trying to reprove you but can you explain how your repair caused it to work?
I see you've circumvented the relays on the right. Is there a way to circumvent the relay on the left. I've replaced this relay but it still does not work. The back of the board is burned and I suspect there was more damage than just that relay? Thanks
Is there any downside to bypassing that bottom relay to get power to the heater element?
Yes the heater will not stop heating.. That is the turn on relay..
My VS 100 has a Balboa spa PN 56296-02 board ! I have no power to my heater. The heater checked out ok. Approx. 14ohms. I took out the board and didnt see any burned marks or obvious problems. How can I check the relays? They are soldered into the board and no jumper connections like you have.
Exactly the problem I had. Great diagnostic and repair video. Thank you!
I'm getting the exact same voltage as you everywhere, with no cold solder joint... any idea why is this?? When testing the electrodes with the board connected, I'm not getting any power but the relays are drawing the right amount of amps. It's a brand new VS500z board from Balboa.
Can I do this jumping around cables with my motherboard?
My is Balboa model VS300FL4
I have a Balboa VS system in a Cayanna Valley Spa. I mistaken thought I had turned off the breaker when draining the water. I have since refilled the spa, but the spa no longer heats. All lights are on and water is flowing, the heating light comes on, but the temp remains unchanged. I looked inside the box and everything looks good, including breakers and surge protectors. Any suggestions?
Glad I found this video. i have the same issue with mine. I have the same heater so now I got to figure out if its the element or the board.
Hello friend, question on VS pack and expansion relay board for pump 2. Does the "ext relay" j60 need to be programed to run pump 2?
Setup is 220v. I added twin 5hp pumps. I added the expansion board so I don't blow the main fuse. The pumps drew to much current.
Pump 2 does come on. But un controllable. Almost like it is a 24 hr cir pump.
It will come on when pump 1 is in low mode.
Do I have to assign pump 2 to ext relay in test mode?
This is an older 2007 leisure bay celebrity. With a VS pack and a old 4 button lcd screen.
Ty
Excellent video but need to do this to mine ,just would like to be clear on the jumper wire installation thanks
I have a 5n5 code ,could that be the sensors?
HI again, I have got my balboa circuit board back from the repairers. It warms only to 29 degrees even if I have it set for 38 degrees. All relays have been changed. When I lowered the heat to 26, I see the temp light goes off. And I hear a small click. Then I put it back to 38 and get a small click. The heat light then flashes and then is steady after 90secs. but it is not going over 29 ? The fuses look fine, but the big main one is not glass, so would need to check that one. I checked the AC current on the element, with it all powered up, And it read nothing. is this strange or what? The element is warmish to touch not hot to burn yourself. I need to switch it off now to check, the ohms. just checked the ohms, around 18,9-19? What does this mean if it is not around 11 or 12? I don't know where the problem is, any ideas?
What if I don’t have the connection above the element lug
i jumped the right heater gold part to the jumper you did on the first right relay pin and it work.. with a 14ga wire soldered in place
Just to be clear can you show detail of the connections for bypass please,thank you ,roger
Worked like a charm! Thanks so much. Vkv502 54380-02 vkv502R1a circuit board. I was reading 0 across the heating element and once jumper added 240v. Boom!
omg i fixed it by jumping the relay to the heater out
thanks a lot spa guy LUV YOU
I was wondering if you could help me repair my hot tub mother board or give me advice. I already replaced the heater sensors and that is not the issue and the heater works but it does not stop at the set temperature, it keeps heating until it reaches 110 degrees where the emergency overheat relay shuts the heater down but it then gives me an error message and I have to hit any of the buttons on the readout to reset.
It is the relay that opens up when it reaches the temperature and breaks the circuit. They don't make my motherboard anymore so I am left trying to fix it. Any ideas on how to trace the relay that is not working? Everything else is ok except for the lights which stopped working after I messed around last fall so I think I may have a loose connection with them as they worked fine before I started trying to find the source of the heater issues. I have a CS9000 which has 5 pumps so it is a complicated motherboard. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Clay
I have almost the same problem, but for me, the second relay has no output voltage. It's like the relay isn't closing... Any ideas?
The second relay is the turn on relay if it is not closing it could be that the system is not calling for heat meaning the temp is not set to call for heat or you are in mode that will not call for heat except for certain conditions. Like if you have it in the Economy mode it will only call for heat during the filter cycle and if you have it in sleep mode with will not call for heat at all. The relay could simply be bad but that is not the norm..
Hi, thank you for the excellent video. I have the exact same issue in my 2010 Grand Cayman. The jumper wire was over heated, I do not have 240v to the element. I will be trying this repair. Thanks again, excellent video.
Hi I have a balboa BP 1500 revolution how can I bypass on my system
You can't on that system..
What if the heat light isn't coming on I've turned heat up it was flashing earlier had 240 on the element but now no light and 120 on each leg of element to ground
Man. Thank you SO much for sharing. Had the issue, and your video did the trick. I’m using an 18-gauge wire for the jumper with some ¼” clips. The wire is heating slightly. Do you think I should have a heavier wire? Thanks again!
is there a third place to hook up the right pin of the heater if the relay second tap is burned too?
Is there a way to contact you with a picture? I have a board that blew a relay. There’s also a very small component that also looks damaged. I’m trying to identify it so I can replace it. Looks like a resistor or a diode just to the left of the heater relay. With my phone camera I can see that it says what I believe is sj 68a and the symbol resembles one I found on google called vishay
Great video I now have an understanding of how it heats mt tub is saying heater too hot?? Both m7 sensors appear good and flow is good, could it be a relay sticking ? or? MXBO501X PN 56549-01
Yes they can get stuck closed..
Great explanation!
Thank you!
The yellow box you touch is burned. What's the name or do I have to buy all pc board
dude i cannot thank you enough for that video ! your the guy WOW
really really apreciated wowwww
Using the jumper fixed the problem for 2 days, then quit heating. I not longer have any voltage at right tab bottom relay. Now what? Thanks!
Great video, but what if the tub doesn't even call for heat?
That is a whole other set of diagnosis..
How do you Sync Sensor after replacing heater? I keep getting the message and my heater not working.
It is Automatic.. You probably have a bad M7 sensor..
Great video the best out there, really explained how my system worked. In Colorado so freezing is a big risk so trying to fix myself, I thought I had the same problem but slightly different - No panel errors, circulation pump running, Heating element tests good, heating light is on, relay on the left closed, on the right first relay closed, second open. Video helped me find that my second relay is open, heat light is on but the relay is open so can't jump that relay or as I understand the heat will not shut off. Any ideas what can cause that or other testing I can do? Can I replace the relay, I assume that is not an option so something is telling that relay to stay open or it failed? But if it is system telling it to open then seems like the light would be off or there would be an error message. Thanks for any suggestions!
Did you ever get an answer? My relay is stuck open too. What triggers it?
@@dougspirit hey me too same problem exactly
@@andrewbeaverson1166 I replaced the relay. All good now.
Sorry to bother you on a Sunday. Great video; My problem appears to be at the very first relay because I never have 205V anywhere beyond the first tab on that relay (even with the heater light on). Is it possible that the fuse located immediately above that tab (just above where the original jumper is shown on your video)? If not, can I fix the problem with a different jumper?
Then you have a cold solder joint there.. There are no fuses on the heater circuit..
The yellow box you touch is burned. What's the name or do I have to buy all pc board
My 3 way terminal block length 1 1/2 x 1/2 has burned out any ideas where I can find a used replacement? And do you know why it burned out in the first place deanr6761@yahoo.com
Thank you so much for this video which helped us know how to fix our problem
Have you ever been shock working on hot tubs? And can it kill you if you do get shocked?
Error code OHS on a coleman 400 series (2005). the water heater was replaced as well as the sensors. Any other ideas?
moove your temp sensors connections at the board, it fixed my OHS
Do you know what error codes these mean: 100, 114, 28, and 120?? I have a Master Spa Legend series, 2005 model. We just had a brand new circuit board put in less than 6 months ago. But my husband was flipping breakers on and off trying to figure out which breaker was a hall light and it was after that I noticed the next day the breaker was tripped and not on. I have called Master Spa and somehow they have no idea what those 4 codes mean. It is extremely frustrating. and their local dealer guys who came could not help either. I turned the power off and did a complete scrub down of the filters and got any debris out, put back in, and it still isn't heating. Pumps and lights work fine. It is just very odd that those codes come up and I can't find literally anything anywhere on the net of someone else posting those same error codes and Master Spa not knowing what they mean either. :/
Thanks for the great video!! I have the exact issue going on with my Strong Spa. What gauge wire are you using for your jumpers?
Is that 2.5MMsq?
Cannot say Thank You enough!!! Fixed!
Mine just keeps saying 18.88
I replaced the element it kept blowing breaker and burned the board
Replaced sensors in the balboa
Ran through everything let it do its process worked for a day now just says 18.88 and the top buttons won’t function but it turns on and is stuck in 18.88 cal spa
If I send you my circuitboard, could you fix it?
Possibly email me pictures of the board and issue.. billy@thespaguyinc.com
@@spaguyhowto7417
Yes, I will
Do you have a contact that I could call and ask you you question
Great, thank you.
Great info, Thank you so much!! I will be looking to get my parts and supply's from you. well worth it just for the info!
thank you great info.
good info,
I have 240 from electrod
to electron
electrod to electrod
Wish they kept those open relays. Now have to replace the whole board because a POS $12 relay broke
You give a Lotta great information but you can’t see anything because your hands are blocking everything you’re talking about. I wish I could see what you were talking about putting the testers on what areas. The second really mine doesn’t have a spike coming out like yours does
*Does the job*
Damn I mostly see your hand so I’ve got assume I know what I’m looking at
Something tells me you wouldn't even be happy with a a brand new BullFrog Spa. This man is an angel that got his wings clipped and sent to Earth to help us humans with our hot tubs as a punishment. He probably got in trouble with the Creator for repoing prayers for new hot tubs! Always in my prayers Spa Guy!