How To Replace A Chevy 5.3 Timing Chain Without Removing The Oil Pan
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2024
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Part numbers used in video
-----------------
Felpro gasket kit: TCS45993
Cloyes Cam sprocket: CLO S894T
Cloyes Timing Chain Kit: CLO 9-4205SB
Melling Melling Oil Pump: MEL M365
Tools Used
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Harmonic Balancer Puller Kit: OEMTOOLS 25090
TEKTON 45-Degree Offset Box End Wrench Set: WBE24407
Pittsburgh 18 In. Telescoping Magnet: 37187
CHAPTERS
-----------------------
0:00 Intro
2:08 Removing engine cover & Intake
2:45 How to tell if you have VVT
3:23 Removing belt & Tensioner
4:32 Removing water neck & Thermostat
5:21 Removing water pump hoses
6:16 Removing electric fans
8:11 Removing AC belt
8:27 Removing the water pump
9:48 Disconnecting camshaft sensor wiring
11:18 Removing Harmonic balancer
11:53 Finding the correct harmonic balancer puller
12:57 Removing the harmonic balancer
14:12 Removing timing cover
16:22 Assessing the damage
18:03 How to take out the oil pickup tube bolt
23:06 Removing the oil pump
26:43 Finding more damage
28:32 Removing cam gear
29:57 Pulling off the crank sprocket
31:43 Installing new crank sprocket
32:28 Installing new tensioner & cam gear
33:59 Verifying timing marks
34:18 Torquing cam gear bolt
36:08 how to install the oil pump
37:16 How to start the oil pickup tube bolt
39:09 Installing timing cover seal & cam position sensor
39:48 Installing timing cover
40:14 Reconnecting camshaft sensor wiring
40:34 Installing Harmonic Balancer
43:15 Seeing if it runs - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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This is probably the most underrated LS repair video on TH-cam.
Thank you for the excellent videography during this repair. You have helped me tremendously in my repair! What started as a AFM delete turned into replacing the entire timing assembly as well. Dropping the pan was not an option at this time.
Thanks so much! Glad we could help!
Here is a little trick I used when I had to do this. With the rag still stuck down in the pan and in the top of the pickup tube to keep things from falling in. Use a Dremel or similar and turn the pickup tube bolt hole into a slot. You can then preinstall the bolt into the oil pump before you put it on. Then while holding the tube down slide bolt on the oil pump through the slot, you made on the tube. Seemed easier than trying to start that bolt in limited space.
I've got a 2007 Chevy Tahoe and this video is a lifesaver. Thanks so much for putting the time and effort into filming all the tricky parts.
Thanks glad it helped!
That puller that you tossed aside will work it's what I use put the jaws all the way in on the balancer with the jaws facing the crankshaft! I use a 1/2" inch drive ratchet and the balancer bolt all the way in then back in off about 4 turns then break it free and you can change to a 3/8s ratchet with ease after putting it an 3/8s 6 inch extension save yourself 50 bucks and waiting for the puller to arrive and It takes very few minutes and few patience !!! Remove the pump gears that will give you more play with removing and installing the oil pump and after reinstalling the pump gears you should center the gears there's a video that shows how to do that also prime the pump gears with engine build grease or just good old Vaseline installing the if you're clamp is not weld in place there's a tab welded on the pickup tube take a Dremel tool cut the tab just enough to rotate the clamp and put the bolt into the other bolt hole that you can get to easily if the clamp is welded to the tube you can buy a modified clamp and use the other hole that's easy to get to made by improved racing 24 bucks hope this information helps you and others!
Amazing video! You're a lifesaver. Great lighting and good camera angles.
- 2007 Silverado with the same issue. Tensioner disintegrated, and jumped time. No codes were being thrown at all. Died while driving down the freeway on cruise control. No start, had fuel at the rail, spark was present, checked all the fuses & relays, tried replacing the crankshaft sensor, and fuel injector pulse was present. Ordered timing kit from RockAuto, and opened everything up to verify that it did indeed jump time. I made it to 300,000 miles, so I guess it was time.
I have a 2007 Chevy 6.0 and same thing happened that you mentioned but I have no compression at all. Did you have compression after all this happened? Or did it return after new install of parts
Great video! My `07 Suburban threw a P0016 code and after eliminating the cam and crank sensors as the problem, I knew it had to be the timing chain. I followed your video step by step and purchased the same OEM puller and even the magnet from Harbor Freight. While everything else was pretty straight forward, the oil pump and pick-up tube bolt were very tricky like you said. Putting the bolt back in was more difficult, in my opinion. It turns out the timing chain tensioner failed and the plastic guide got caught up in the chain and it jumped a tooth. All back together now and running good! Thanks for the help!
Did you have compression after your engine quit running? I have a 2007 Chevy 6.0 vortec same thing happened only I don’t have any compression
Yu😂 gave me hope 🙏🔥
One of the best replacement videos I've seen good job
This is the best video I found so far. Very informative on figuring out what to do with what ya got.
Thanks a bunch for showing me
Great video, I'm about to to change the change the chain tensioner and timing chain on my 2014 Silverado 1500, this is the most detailed video I found and it is great 👍👍👍
Thanks for the quality video with attention to detail.. lifesaver for a non GM guy.
Awesome bro appreciate the help 🤘
Great video ✌🏾
First, great job!!! About to do mine using your video.
Not sure if you realize, but when you started torquing the guide bolts, you said torque to 10lbs, then said 18. But i watched and it looks like you did 10lbs stopping when that beeping occurred.
And i have to say you're brave when screwing back in that pick-up line bolt. You had paper under it when taking it off, but not when putting it in. Guess that magnet was strong.
Again, great job!!!!
Very in-depth.. thanks a lot!!! And good job to do that for mom!!!
Glad you liked it!
Good video, in the middle of my 2009 avalanche as i post this. I lasoed the 10mm p/u tube bolt with a light guage wire to take it out so once i loosened it wouldnt drop in the pan and same to guide it back in for re-assembly. Fyi there is a oil filler plug on the driver side of the block ment specifically for priming oil pump. Once pump is in fill with 8 ounces of oil. I had pump failure and installed a high volume pump. Before assembly of pump i poured sea foam (1 ounce/ quart of oil in the p/u tube to hopefully clean the pick up tube screen. GM engineers made it so that they want pan removed so that you can inspect/ clean p/u tube and screen. I think mine is fine as i have only used synthetic and have never had sludge issues.
Next task is to replace the oil cooler lines, another pain if your truck is a 4×4.
Cheers from Canada eh
Doin mine this week and using your video as reference. Thank you. I'm dropping the pan tho!
Appreciate you brother informative I've got mine taken apart the same way
Awesome video with good humor. I just changed the oil on my truck last night and had a timing chain link stuck to my oil change bolt. Im kinda pissed about it. I just had cam, heads, headers, timing, oil pump, water pump, intake, tb done to beef up this motor at a shop. They had my truck for a long time. I had kept bringing it back for codes and they would keep it for another moth everytime. Now ive got a link in my oil pan. Not good. Im gojng to tackle this timing this weekend. Thanks for the awesome vid. Im going to try the string suggestion from one of the comments.
Thanks for this video, helped me through my 2008 Chevy Silverado 1500 that had popped a P0161. Timing chain tensioner went out and took a tooth off the camshaft sprocket with it.
I feel like this is very common
Cuase I'm dealing with that aswell , did you have an evap code before this?
@@markbeinhorn93 yep, was evap; tried the sensor itself first with no luck.
Did you ever get gas and it have trouble starting
I literally to leave my truck running while getting gas lmao
@markbeinhorn93 nah no issues with starting. At one point with my 08 though my fuel pump went out and threw similar issues, right after that I had some evap codes because of that evap canister going to shit
Good job ;)
Amazing
Good video. Gave torque specs too.
How do you line up the timing chain if the old one is off, do you keep spinning it until it lines up?
Did you jack the motor up?? Asking because it seems I do not have enough clearance to even get to that bolt on the pickup tube? I would appreciate any advice. Thanks
FYI, the sensor that is by the crank is the cam sensor! You said that it didn't have one until 2011 that is incorrect crank sensor is behind the starter!
Excellent video! Thanks!
Right now I got a PO300 and a PO420 2002 LQ4 Yukon .... I know my cat is clogged, pretty sure. I'm really hoping I don't need a time and chain and sprocket hoping the p300 is just a coil or plugs I don't think it's fuel pump issue could be injector the misses. You know a little bit of idle but really bad at high rpm
I worked on a ford ranger that had a clogged cat, it would idle fine but would buck and surge on take off and would start ignition nocking and just all round run bad at anything over 2,000 rpm because of the back pressure created from the cat. I would do something about the clogged cat you mentioned before going any further. What I would do is take down the y pipe the cats are in or wherever it’s located and remove the material with a hammer and something to get down into the pipe with, reconnect the exhaust and clear your codes and see if now you only get codes related to catalytic performance. Then if your other codes don’t come back you can get the cats replaced -mason
@@ATDGarage yeah I'm going to replace that cat for now cuz it's only saying one is bad according to the code... Hope p0300 is just from the cat it ... Im guna replace the cat tomorrow it's 2002 so I don't have to pass emissions anyway but the lack of power is annoying.... Fingers crossed it's only the cat. The plugs and wires look recent and we'll see. Thanks. Have a good day
Excellent video! Try a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil for that lifter noise. Cleaned mine right up.
Mom looks younger than you! Good in-depth video.
I thank you very much for this video bro. You did way more then helping me thru this challenge. I am far far far from a mechanic i mean all I've ever done was change a tire lol. Then bam i had to run into this issue. Luckily i had tools but not all told so it was way waaaaay harder then it should have been lol lol. I can laugh at it now but when i was up in that bitch taking that oil tube bolt out. Let's just say i felt like a black hole stuck in a black hole lol. But needless to say I got that shit and it was by your help n knowledge. Thank you for this video i am now a good certified mechanic lol.
Thanks man! Glad we helped
3in jaw puller works make sure the jaw is super tight then use a 1/4in extension as a rod in the crank hole
How did you fix the timing ⏱️? To line up together.
great video!!! thanks for showing real time. gave me the confidents to do mine. thanks
I’m on the harmonic balancer part.. do I have to have an impact to pull out the harmonic balancer ir can I use a ratchet?
You can use a ratchet if you can keep the engine from spinning.
Will this work on a 2015 Suburban 5.3 GenV?
How much torque does the timing chain screw have?
That has the AFM obviously and it sounds like you need to do a lifter change and possibly camshaft if you let it go too long.
Next time tie a thin rope to the bolt, wrap it a bunch of times then unravel it, works for me!
Good idea!
😮 BEST FREE ADVICE EVER!!!! PRICELESS
Did you put on the AC tensioner or did it come like that? Mine doesn’t have one…
It came like that. You have to loosen the ac compressor bolts to install the belt. When you tighten the bolts it tensions the belt.
Very informative video. What codes did you have ?
I believe it only had a cam to crank correlation code.
@@ATDGarage was it the p0016? That’s the same code I have which is cam to crank correlation
I ended up getting a Chrysler harmonic balancer pulley from a local parts store for my 2010 5.3 Chevy
Do you remember what size were the 2 bottom bolts that went into the oil pan and into the bottom of the timing cover? Do you remember if those 2 bolts were the same size as the oil pan bolts?
Thanks
Yes same size as the oil pan bolts 10mm
@ATDGarage thanks a bunch. I tried to unbolt that bolt on the pickup tube like you did but had no luck or patience to i had to drop the oil pan, which wasn't as bad as I expected. Anyway, I think my new oil pan gasket shifted at those 2 bolts. Have all the rest in expected the 2 i asked about.
Hey, great video that you did. Someone needs to punch the engineers at gmc & chevy in the mouth who designed that motor. For making it difficult to remove that pickuo tube bolt, that back #8 spark plug on the passenger side and that oil switch way in the back of the engine block under the firewall.
Thanks dude
You ALWAYS change the chain, cam sprocket, and the crank sprocket, all as a set when you do a timing chain job otherwise you will wear the chain so fast you will repeat this entire procedure in a few years or less!
you mentioned "fixing" the lower crankshaft being off TDC. How did you do that?
I reinstalled the crank bolt tight enough to spin it ether backwards or forward to get the marks on the cam gear and the crank gear to lineup. I believe we left that part in the video but I I can’t remember
@@ATDGarage thank you!!! excellent video!
This is a really small side note , but always swap that O-ring on the oil tube . Didnt do that on some pan swaps and the oil pressure goes crazy . Awesome video , gonna try this on a buddy’s . Would the process be the same on a 6.0 ?
Can’t confirm if this will work on a 6.0 but motors are quite similar
Agreed . That piece that was missing next to the chain , what was it ? Also , are the markings on the chain and crank gear all I need to do for timing ?
It was the timing chain tensioner guide That broke off. If assuming yours didn’t jump or anything yes all you have to do is realign them
Like if the chain completely broke off and you were cranking your motor. But if it was still attached like in the video then all you have to do is just realign them
Pretty much the same but 6.0 doesn’t have a timing tensioner
i was thinking about doing it this way but then i imagine the plastic bit clogging up the pickup screen so ill probably go ahead and drop the diff and pan
How do you know if your chain failed ? And how may miles on that truck ? Mine just shut off and when you go to start the starter wines my flywheel is spinning and my harmonic balancer is also spinning the starter is engaging and spinning the flywheel any suggestions will be appreciated Thanks a million and also excellent video and quality wow excellent job guys
It had 145k at the time she let it run low on oil quite a few times while on road trips and burned up the chain guides prematurely. It was still running at the time but the engine light came on about 200 miles before we actually changed it and was complaining about a cam to crank correlation P0016. We actually got it diagnosed at a shop in town they did a bunch of tests on it to make sure it wasn’t just a sensor. They came to the conclusion it was actually the chain, but they didn’t do open engine work so thats when I decided to repair it myself.
Something you could try and check that I did is turn your harmonic balancer by had back and forth. I was able to hear and feel the slop in the chain it would move easily until the chain tensioned up If that makes sense. Something you could do and for sure know if it’s broken is take a valve cover off and make sure the rockers are moving up and down. They are actually quite easily removed and the gasket is basically just an o-ring
@@ATDGarage Thanks so much it just died at light no warning except stability Trac control came at same time it shut down I am a little handy not as quite as good as you guys I won't to try this but I'm afraid lol I know I can everything off but I just don't know how to match up timing back that's were I'm terrified I will try to spin the harmonic balancer back and forth do I do this without the belt on I'm assuming Thanks a million I never get and luck with my neighbors I wish you were mine we best friends
Okay I turned the harmonic balancer with no belt and it spun but so far then stopped went the opposite way it spun for a few turns also then it came to stop also ?
@@Nex-xw3ob that is quite strange... I would take a valve cover off and see if the rockers move. thats gonna be the easiest and quickest way to be sure. once you remove the coil pack its only 4 bolts
I have a 2007 Chevy 6.0 vortec all of a sudden lost power and died going down road. Timing chain is still connected but no compression. Is it possible tensioner went bad like your video and lost compression? Just curious about damage to heads since it’s an interference engine…
Interesting, Are the timing marks still relatively close? If they are way off then that’s possible but if they still line up sorta like the one in the video it might be something else
I have not pulled front cover yet. I have verified fuel pressure, spark, and pulled valve covers and valve springs are opening and closing so timing chain is still connected
@nicholasharris237 no compression on all cylinders or just one or two?
@@ATDGarage I checked cylinder #1 and #2
That’s a fun one, I suppose the tensioner might have done what you suggested, before I would dive into taking the motor apart it I would look in those cylinders with a bore scope and see if there are any witness marks on a piston from valve contact.
Great video! One question on timing….being that timing was off…how did you reset the timing back to proper alignment?
Thanks! There is a dot on the cam gear and the crank gear. To time them align the dots so they are pointing at each other as I did in the video.
Time stamp 33:59 is how they should look
@@ATDGarage right …but if they were off set at first before taking everything off ..how did you get them lined back up?
Both the cam gear and the crank gear are keyed so the gears can only go on one way. In my case where the chain didn’t brake and they weren’t spinning separately from each other. All I had to do was realign them by reinstalling the crank bolt tight enough where I could spin the crank, same for the cam to align them
@@ATDGarage so basically you just put all the new stuff on…spun everything until the marks realigned again and then torque torque good to go?
My marks do not match. Can I rotate the cam without moving the crank?
Ya just turn the cam with the cam sprocket bolt
🤝🏽🤝🏽🤝🏽
Or cut a thin strip of a whole bike cycle tube and put it around it and pull it clockwise. That will remove it quick
Pull the entire front end off and it’s much better access. No radiator or support etc and it’s easy breezy…..
How many miles on the rig when you did the chain?
I believe it was 145k
Thanks, trying to gauge when I need to do my Silverado. I'm at 182k never changed. Got to do front-end suspension 2:56 rebuild first. Thanks for video, didn't know the oil pump is up front now.
@genepatnode8392 oh nice that’s a fun job. I’m pretty sure the only reason we had to change it so early on is it was run low on oil a few times and shortened the life of the chain guides.
Hope I can get to the O Ring from the front like you did on my 07 Yukon Denali.
Next time make a circle with fishing line and put it around the bolt now just pull it clockwise. Boom thought you something. Time saver coming out and back in
Hmmmm I’m trying to that like on the neck of it and loop it arround me pull one side that spins it clock wise?
Is dropping the oil pan that hard? Real question thanks. Great video
I’m honestly not to sure but I have heard if you have a 2wd vehicle it’s much easier. Than a 4x4 because the front dif has to come out or at last dropped a little. I don’t think it should be to hard but just more time consuming.
It took me about 2 hours just to lower the front differential
@@depends303 I watched a video and it did look like a lot of extra steps to drop the pan! Luckily I don't have to do this yet but nice trick
what's the size on the crank bolt
24mm or 15/16
Both fit perfectly
How many miles were on the engine?
145,000 something
13:00 its just a crank pulley. not a harmonic balancer...
If only the pan was just remove bolts and it comes down kind of thing after replacing the gasket on mine its easier now i know what to do but i still dont want to do it its like the heater core on a silverado
I’m suprised you didn’t need to prime the oil pump.
How come every oil pump video I watched said you have to drop the pan?
This video is for doing the timing chain on the 5.3 engine. Sorry if ther was confusion
@@ATDGarage yes but don’t you have to remove the pump anyway to do the chain?
@@ATDGarage yes but don’t you have to remove the pump anyway to do the chain?
They say you have to remove the pan because of the pickup tube bolt being awkward to get at, and there is barely enough room to get the pump out. The “correct” way is to remove the pan but this is a shortcut you can take.
Should remove the oil pan and clean it out!!!!!
Ya if it wasn’t my rig I would have. But I found the tooth with a bore scope and removed it with a magnet and made sure there wasn’t any other debris in there and that was much easier than dropping the pan.
Did you have symptoms or just a nosie?
Main symptom was had a check engine light related to timing. And hard cold starts with a strange almost grinding noise right when it fired up. And she occasionally saw black smoke when highway driving. I dont know it that was related but hasn’t been back
Had a shop verify with a scan tool that the sensors were good and the chain was at fault
AFM lifters are bad.
Amazing