Briggs and Stratton Plastic Pulsa Prime Carburetor (Carb) Rebuild
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- This is showing how to remove and rebuild a carburetor on a Briggs and Stratton engine on a lawn mower. This can be applied to any outdoor power equipment powered by a similar engine. This type of carb is found on many different B&S engines from 3 to 5 hp.
The kit is a B&S part # 495770 and comes with the diaphragm, the gasket, filter screen and spring. I bought mine from Lowe's for $4.98 + tax. This is an easy and cheap fix for a engine that is surging.
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Nobody else bothered to take the main jet out but that was my problem. Thank you for showing that step, I appreciate your knowledge!
So glad the video helped you out!
@@TheManCaveVideo
July 2024. Main jet was plugged up bad. Running great now. Thanks.
My exact problem as well. Probably watched 30 videos before finding this one 👍👍👍
Been studying and messing with small engine repair and watching many many youtube videos for over 2 and a half years and this is one of the best carb videos for this type carb I've ever seen BRAVO.
Thank you.
Watched three videos on this and yours is the best; you were the only one who bothered to take out and clean the jet. Thanks to you my mower now runs sweetly, with its cleaned out carb and an airtight new gasket and diaphragm in situ.
Watched this video a few times now and finally I'm doing just this on my mower now. Can't wait to hear it running.
Edit: Performed carby clean as per video and mower is running sweet.
There was a bit of gunk embedded in the filter screen of the fuel pick up, couldn't see any other blockages anywhere but could have been and the plastic jet you lever out with small screwdriver seemed clean. The local briggs dealer told me you could pull out the fuel pick up to clean but I should have asked him to show me how as I was afraid of breaking it. Seemed very stuck in there although it would turn. Instead I squirted starter fluid in there and blew it out with air gun both from the pick up filter mesh side and also from the hole in the carby it's connected to. You see which hole is connected when you blow out the started fluid from the pick up side. I alternatively sprayed the starter fluid in and blew out one side and then from the other until the debris were no longer visible inside the filter screen. Somehow debris got in there and weren't just on the outside. Got a new set of diaphragm & gasket for $12 ($AUS). After 10 years the diaphragm was a bit stretched and worn. Oil long overdue for change and was evident by the sludge that started accumulating. Checked valve clearances - Intake was right within spec but exhaust was bit over spec. May lap valves and make adjustments at a later date.
Thanks for giving me the confidence to attack this carby with a bit of knowledge of what to expect. Cheers! Brad.
You fixed that thing perfectly, I try to work on a lot of small egines I get mine from the county dump or yard sales people tell me they are broken and beyond repair and give them to me just to get rid of. Most of the time I just take the carb of and clean and adjust it and it runs like a top, people just don't understand how simple the 4 stroke engine is.
This one of the best carburetor videos for Briggs and Stratton online. Extremely videoed and great explanation as he disassembled and reassembled. Great job.
Great video, simple and easy to understand. My 20 year old mower was running badly, so I replaced the diaphragm and gasket, thinking that would solve the problem. It still ran badly. I determined that the bottom of the carburetor, being plastic was warped and not sealing properly, creating an air leak. I added another gasket and solved the problem, ran fine then. I believe you could take a fine-tooth file and place it flat on the bottom of the carb and carefully dress it, to create a flat surface, or possibly use some gasket sealer. I may give that a try next time.
Watched a few of these videos, bought a B&S diaphragm "carb rebuild kit" from Lowes, installed the new diaphragm and gasket, and it runs like new. Before, it would only run for like 3 or 4 seconds then quit. Yup wouldda been pretty dumb to throw it away. Imagine how much profit there is in leaving a single weak point guaranteed to fail in 5 years or so - most people will just buy a whole new lawnmower. Not me. I didn't want to be one of those dummies,, so I spent a week working on it and watching videos, and saved a hundred and fifty bucks plus tax! :)))
Well done!
I spent two days trying to find a video showing how to rebuild or replace the Carb on a 550 series engine.
You nailed it, Thanks
You're welcome and thanks for the nice comment.
Just wanted to say thank you! Followed this to a T and fixed my mower! Can't say I'm mechanically inclined in anyway so this helped a lot!
I appreciate that very much. This is exactly why I like making this type of video. I know that it won't fix them all but it is fantastic to hear that it has helped so many.
Great video. Unfortunately for me, I found this after I'd already chased problems around and ended up spending that $30 you mentioned before it was fixed. My mower is just in its 4th season and I've had problems since season 2. My warranty had me taking it 80 miles round trip for service so I struggled. Just replaced the whole carb to find that the bulb was leaking air, the tank had trash, the alum. breather bolt stripped out, and that rubber elbow had cracks in it. After replacing the carb I made a 4 1/4" threaded steel rod for the breather and now use a wing nut to remove the breather for cleaning. Runs better than new now! Thanks
What an adventure! Glad you got it fixed. Good to hear that it runs better than new. I had that happen with a weedeater once. When I was done with it, it had way more power and was more responsive than the first time I used it.
Get 2 air cleaner screws for that carburetor and cut the tops off. Use them as lineup tools to replace the diaphragm. Brigg has a tool to replace the primer bulb. Amazon has it. The tang bracket is to adjust govonor speed. If the carburetor still acts up, replace the carburetor. The soft gasket goes on the bottom on the tank. The top goes on the carburetor bottom. The pickup tube pulls off and installs by twisting and pulling. Make sure you have the right govonor springs. Remove the flywheel and replace the top seal and also replace the lower seal. Their is a special oil drain tool from Amazon for 4 h.p. There are valve guide tools from Amazon. Replace the valve seal from the valve.
Great video Sir. About to go to Lowes and buy the kit. Everything is cleaned up. Will let you know how it goes.
Worked like a charm, one hour worth of labor, $4.29 for the Gumout, $4.98 for the kit and $2.97 for a spark plug that will keep as spare. Thanks again.
Thanks for my now running Lawnmower. In my case the Carb jets were clogged up and the bowl in the top of the tank was full of crud.
I noticed the lose wheel bolt on the front right side by the discharge chute right away at 0:15. The mower sounds great after you where done.
You should have an index with times, at key points. I came back to this the next day after watching it. Carb removal at....jet cleaing at...etc...good video, and you only say what needs to be said.
Thanks for that idea.
And to conclude - with this video - I fixed my lawnmower and mowed my lawns!!!! Cheers!
*Well done* !, very well presented.
As an aside comment : The order of nipping in / snug fit of the carb screws.
You went in a concentric fashion.The *Haynes Small Engine Repair Manual* recommends "Tighten the pump cover screws in small increments, following a cross-pattern, to avoid distortion of the cover." *The Briggs and Stratton Repair Manual* for Single Cylinder 4 Cycle engines mentions how to "Pre-Load Diaphragm" for a Vacu-Jet carb, saying to "Hold choke while tightening carburetor mounting screws in a staggered sequence".
Some people suggest the same method as doing a cylinder head but really, this is plastic, surely the torque is not that great. Mmmmh the jury is still out on this one !
there is no choke on this carb.
If you have to pump it a lot to get it started the first time but after it is hot it starts easy I would make sure the bubble does not have a leak. The fact that it runs good when it finally starts would eliminate ign.
Just wanted to say thank you for posting this video, I have the exact same type of mower that's showing signs of age now. The breakdown of the carb was exactly what I needed.
mrceej glad to hear that this video is helpful. Good luck with the repair!
So I ordered the kit. ran but hard starting originally with the kit wouldn't run at all with new carb found a mower w a wheel missing on cleanup took my wheel put on mower good to go that was how I done it 😅
Sometimes you just got to do what works.
Watched several of these carb repair videos your is by far the best. Great video thankyou
Jack
Thanks for the nice comments. I really appreciate it.
Thanks for a great VIDEO, I had troubles with my mower and after replacing the Gasket and Diaphragm it would still only start and then stop, looking at your video showed me that the fuel jet was and how to clean it, doing that fixed it . Thanks heaps
thanks for actually explaining something. it helps to know more than Step 1, step 2 step 3. ect..
Get 2 air cleaner studs and cut off the tops. Screw them into the tank holes of the carb. to use as a line-up tool. Put the diaphragm down on the tank and then the carb. If the engine still don't run right, replace the carb. Check the spark plug. Tighten the head bolts. They loosen up. Use a 3/8 Dr. inch lb. torque wrench. Use a Stens oil change tool- #752-828. Amazon has it. The top piston ring is thin. Remove the ring ridge before removing the piston. Check the compression. It should be about 90 lbs.
You can also pull some wire from your brush and put one end of you wire and push it into the end of a Mach stick so if you loose you wire brush.
sometimes the 2 rings on the carb come off on the intake tube. The rubber o rings go in side the tube on the carb the white rings snap inside the carb to hold the black one on place
Thanks - very helpful. I was able to get my mower going for $3.20 thanks to your video.
These push button/bulb 'choked' B&S engines are a PITA. My go to 'cure' if the bulb is inoperative is to simply fill the tank to near full, rotate the entire mower by 90° using the front wheels as the pivot point .... this will allow the push bulb to fill/operate - give it a few squeezes in the 90° rotated position, rotate the mower back to the ground, then start the engine.
Use stabilizer and a bacterio-stat in your fuel. When putting the engine up of the season, fill the tank with 'canned' ECCO, etc. stabilized, hi-octane, blended fuel (About $15.00/gallon from Home Depot, etc.), run the engine for about 15 minute, shut down and refill the tank to the top, then seal the VENT on the tank cap.
I do this on all my small engines: outboards, weed-whackers, chainsaws, small mowers .... and RARELY have a starting problem the following season. Most of the old style 'fuel stabilizers' are not effective for ethanol *contaminated* gasoline, use the 'canned' fuel for when long term storing your engines. If you have access to general aviation (small airport) supply - use high octane, alcohol free, AV-gas and then add standard gasoline stabilizer.
Hope this helps.
Great video! Used this to fix my lawn mower. Now it no longer sounds like ass and actually does what it should..lol
The only other thing I would like to add when I copied this procedure is when pulling the carburettor from the machine the o ring & plastic sleeve from the carb came out from the carb so a upon starting after the service the machine still hunted up & down on revs due to the fact the vacuum in the carb was not correct as the carb & manifold were not sealed due to o ring sitting loosely on manifold in front of carburettor
Video was a great help thank 👍
I had a Briggs that was surging. I screwed the breather tube up and it stopped surging. It was a little loose, so in all the way and back out just enough too get the rubber tube back on carb.
Excellent video and perfect explanation - good and slow English so that even foreigner can understand ! Great thanks for the advice that helped me to get rid of annoying thing with my machine :). The author deserves a couple of good beers :)
+mitopy Thank you for your kind comments and I'm glad that this video was helpful to you.
Great video; however, the video lacks one modification the will stop the surging problem from returning. Simply scribe/scratch a line between the two screws on either side of the intake port. This is where the plastic warps. Scribing the line between these two screws will solve the problem. Did this to three mowers several years ago, one of them was only a year old, none of them has ever had another problem, if fact one of them I used the old gasket over.
Thanks for your time. My B&S engine surges and I followed you instructions. Love the toilet brush!!!
He is a regular Eli Whitney on a Lawn Mower. And loves French fries, he can eat four large and not so much as belch.
EXCELLENT ! I have a yard machine tiller same carb doing same thing. . I put a tester on the plug/wire getting sputtering spark(makes sense with stahling carb) was about to buy a $25 coil pack. instead it's a $5 fix.
Thanks for the 411 & great Vid. off to grind up some weeds in garden !
I'm glad the video helped out. It's always a good feeling when it turns out to be something less expensive than expected.
Great Video, will try cleanning that jet tube. Thanks for the tip.
Great video. Unfortunately my jet will not come out it will break if I try to force it so I'm just gonna spray the best I can
You never mentioned the o-ring and washer that goes on the end of carb tube before you slip it on to the intake tube. Also you never hooked up the govenor linkage. How did it start??
I never took the O-ring out of the carburetor. You can see it in the carburetor at the 3:10 mark and again at 12:08 just before I slide the carburetor onto the intake tube. I hook up the linkage at 12:25 as i am sliding the tank and carburetor into position and I mentioned how easy it is to do when the tank is loose.
Thank you so much (from Brazil)
My mower started doing this exactly like this one , a friend at work asked if it was blowing black smoke, I said yes!! ,an he told me it was a worn diaphragm gasket between carburetor an fuel tank , spent $5.00 at Ace Hardware,runs like new again.
I've never in my 21 years of mower repair, have removed the center jet. And no one I know uses that damn screen. I've had a couple of carbs, where the screen was the biggest problem.
Make sure you do have that spring in there! It will cause headache.
The bolts are standard. It's 1/2" and 3/8". There was a couple of years 93-96 that they used 3/8" all around except the oil tube that was 1/4"
chef souffle So you’re saying the carb is better of without the screen?
@@BIG_DRU in the center over the jet, yes. The long tube, keep that screen.
If anyone has this engine and it surges and wont run smooth and right,
these plastic carburetors warp on the engine side mounting surface and
either have to be replaced or you can sand that mounting side down as
flat as possible and add SEAL ALL Sealant or a PERMATEX gas resistant
sealant to the machined surfaces when putting a new gasket on and a tiny
smear on the gaskets also. SEAL ALL sealant >>(resistant to
gasoline, oil, paint thinner, and most solvents. Seal-All is also water
resistant immediately upon application
Sets in 2-3 minutes. Fully cures in 2-6 hours) Yuo can get the gaskets at most Auto Parts stores. Complete kits on eBay for under $5 if you can wait ..
Great helpful vid! and thanks for the soothing narration without muzak :-)
+Sherwood Nash thanks for the nice comments. Glad you found it helpful.
Excellent video. Clear and thorough
Thanks for the feedback!
Had a sprint 40 old engine in bad contition.Finally after rebuild it itgot started and working.
Thank you, a very nice step by step guide. helped me fix my old push mower.
Nice thorough video on cleaning the B&S Pulsa carb.
Excellent video. Watching this explanation I could repair my carburetor. Thanks from Argentina
You failed to mention about the plastic sealing ring and the rubber ring that goes inside that at the back of the carb when you remove and replace the unit. Also you didn't say which hole the spring needs to go back into!
It's the larger hole by the way folks 🤗
Thanks for the great information, your detailed explanation and the way you shot the video. With your help, I was able to fix my engine with confidence and on the cheap!
+Keith Martin You're welcome! It's great to hear about others getting their stuff up and running....especially "on the cheap". :)
Keith Martin the best.
When the long tube has little 'hairs' stuck in its screen,they are actually fiberglass ,from underground gas tanks at stations.
How do you get those out. I think that's my problem
Very well done video, and an extra thanks for the part # for the rebuild kit
Very well explained and simple to follow. Thank you.
Great video: It only took me about a half hour to finish this project of course I did a little more cleanup on my mower. Worked out great! I have to confess I also forgot to put that little gasket back on the top of the carburetor.
One more question where did you purchase that nice pan? Tony Wiesel had a great???
you are the first person i have seen take out the wire mesh filter to
clean the jet well done! does the mesh pull out or did you have to ease it
out with a screwdriver?
You can twist the mesh, to loosen it and then pull it. It should come right off.
Excellent video. You made everything very easy to understand. I have it saved to my favorites.
+robert burket thanks for the kind words. I appreciate the input.
Thanks for the very thorough video! Great result after the carb cleanup and rebuild. The engine sounds smooth. Do you have the part# for this B & S carb rebuild kit? In the mean time I'll google for the part number, as I do have the carb part# that should lead me to the kit.
Brief story - a friend of mine purchased a Craftsman mower with the very same engine and pulsa jet carburetor. The dishonest man that sold it to her claimed he rebuilt the carb. She eventually gave the mower to me because it stopped running. When I removed the carb, I discovered that the screen filter that slips over the jet was missing, hence the reason the mower stopped operating.
The kit is a B&S part # 495770 and comes with the diaphragm, the gasket, filter screen and spring. I bought mine from Lowe's for $4.98 + tax. Thanks for watching and good luck to you on your mower.
4 days I been trying to figure out my push mower problem.
Dozens of videos and I have done have as many repairs! Then look and behold you present "MY" mower with exact same issue! It even sounds the same before repairs!
I am of to Ace (because it's a mile away : ) as soon as I finish this vid!
I hope this works my grass is almost knee high!! Lol
Thank you sir for this video!!
Thank you!
Hello, these are immortal engines that are going to repair for a little money, thanks.
Thanks for the video. I lost both bolts. Where i can buy those bolts. Thanks.
Didn't go into the bulb and cleat it. Mine has a tiny steel ball in it. Would like to see the function of it. Mine just rolls around in there.
Grate vedio as per your instructions I fix my lawnmower. Thank you very much. I'm happy..
Awesome. Glad to hear that.
My lawn mower is running weak and rough for a bout a year and finally it stopped working, the thing is if I prime it, it can run about 30 seconds and stopped, I figure it's time to rebuild carb, bought the same part as in your video and throughly cleaned every thing, prime it and it start easy and I immediately noticed it sounds much smoother just like new, but unfortunately it stopped again after 30 seconds, I ran out of idea what else can be done to bring it back to work.
How important are the springs where do they go when I'm come off and it's broke any help would be greatly
Thanks! Nicely filmed and well explained.
Clear and concise directions. Thank you for reassembling on video as well, it really helped me out.
Nice video! One suggestion... several times, as you were describing what you were doing, your right hand was between the camera and the carb. so what you were doing could not be seen.
+Dick Day thanks for the input.
These carburetors seem superior to the newer ones with a plastic bowl, do you agree? I suspect they are simpler and less temperamental.
I'm not really familiar with the newer carburetors but I would say that this type of carburetor is one of the simplest designs ever. It's set to run at a set speed so there's nothing overly complicated about it. The vacuum generated from the engine operates the diaphragm which sucks gas up into the bowl and then the airflow into the cylinder pulls the gas through the carburetor and into the combustion chamber. As you have implied, the more complicated they get the more temperamental they can be.
Mine still doesn't run right . I used mass air flow cleaner instead of carb cleaner. My pick up tube screen looks like it has stuff trapped behind it
Well done. Thanks. I bought a kit on amazon and for some reason the primer bulb has a small molded hole in the centre of the bulb. Is this something new or something wrong.
great video. followed step by step to fix my surging mower. Thank you
Do you know if you can buy a replacement carb for B&S where the carb is attached to the tank. I did a carb replacement on my edger for $30 shipped and I liked how fast and easy it was replacing the whole thing.
can you please tell me why the engine stops, and sucks in the red pumped red rubber, could be the bump diaphragm, or one of the filter webs
excellent video but I think I did something wrong my yet has a flat side and I don't which side goes towards the engine or does not matter, can you help me out?
When reattaching the gas tank, i over tightened the bigger screw, 3/8 or 9mm, and busted out the cast housing that receives it. Engine still runs without that screw but the tank rattles and that friction can't be good for it over time. Any suggestions? Thanks.
hi great video it will help me with my mowers problems one has this problem the other will be a total rebiuld, just one comment about your video is that you clean the carb and tank but not the area of the engine where you are fitting this nice clean carb and tank back too, why not clean everything
+Stephen fysh I had blown everything loose off with the air hose. Most of what looked dirty on the cover of the motor around where the tank and carb mount was missing paint and rust. However, you're right, I could have taken a little more time cleaning. I hope your repairs go well for you. Thanks for watching!
Wish I had seen this before I bought a new carburettor...
I know this post is over 7 years ago, but does anyone know the name/number etc of the black o ring and the white retainer that goes into the carbi outlet that goes onto the tank? I cant bloody find one any where even buying a whole new tank and carbi nobody supplies the black o ring with white retainer
Very helpful, thanks. What does the diaphragm spring do? I just took my carburetor apart and it's missing. It's been running OK, though.
Good time to change the primer bulb
Mine keeps sucking the primer bulb in and stalls. Any help??
What about the primer button if it's not working
great video thank you so much.
Kit doesn't come with the O-Ring (4:13)?
One of the best video without much editing.
Got one on how to on ATG Husqvarna MZ61 61 inch 24 HP?
hello, I've been holding my mower for 15 years, but this time, the primer bulb no longer pumps (not pierced apparently). I cleaned the carb, blew it, and still nothing coming out. I wanted to see if the 2 little metal balls were a problem. I pressed them a little to see, and they remain blocked in the depressed position. Do you have a suggestion? Thank you in advance, hoping that this unearthing does not fall into the sidereal void of the web.
The rubber bay be perished, have holes in it, and may not be sealing. You may need w new primer bulb. They're easy to replace.
Great film, I cleaned the carb a few weeks ago after it ran for a few moments before cutting out. It ran smooth for a couple of times, now it seems to be running very slowly, if it’s not the carb you said it could be the Linkage at the front. How do you fix that ? I have a big bush I mow under and I’m concerned I’ve damaged that part. Hopefully it’s the carb, so I will give it a try at the weekend. Got my carb cleaner and a new gasket and diaphragm and I’m ready to go . Any advice is greatly appreciated . I work in an office all day so I’m not a practical chap, but I’m determined to fix his dam machine !!! Thanks.
Hello. Thanks for the video. I have the same engine but : when I start the engine it begans to lose gasoline between the tank and the carburetor, where the diaphragm is. Could you tell me what could be the problem?? THANKS VERY MUCH, and hugs from Argentina-
..mine isn't surging, it's sputtering like the choke is on, won't rev up, too rich acting...have cleaned it..but it has no choke, no float, no jets..how can it be flooding/running rich?.....(it's the same type carburetor you are working on)....
Great video! I have basically the same mower thats been taken out of storage and now it wont rev up and pops from the exhaust- any ideas? (new air cleaner, new spark)
Thanks for this yur good efforts on this is very much appreciated great video!
No me aparece ningún video de cómo se instala el cuerpo de aceleración de mi cortadora de cesped modelo 917.382710
"carburetors man, that's what life's all about"- (lyrics from Phantom of the Paradise-1974)
Great video, I followed your steps but it still didn't start. Any other suggestions?
I would never reuse old gas. Always flush tank. First with hot water, and then gas.
my mower sounds exactly like this. well, at least it sounded like this last week. because now it isnt starting at all. so chances are high that it has something to with the Carb?
Hi, I have the same carb in my troy built washer but my issue is that it surges. I took apart the carb and everything looked great and clean what do you think the issue could be? It smokes lightly and burns gas too fast. I took off the air filter to see if that was the issue but it keeps surging.
Do you know what the part number is for the kit? I've got one doing the same thing, well it was. This year it won't even start unless I pore gas down in the carb. The primer bulb still works, so I figure the pump diaphragm is bad or the jet is plugged.
Stens 520-175 replaces 495770 B & Stratton
Is that a chance, I don’t need to change the gasket and diaphragm?
that annoying Pulsing !
just like this video!
the Diagram & gasket fixed it for under $5 .
However, it would only run 2-3 minutes!! (though,pulsing was Gone).
turns out , as stated elsewhere: get a NEW PLUG. my mower runs with power & smooth!!.
Thanks Guys
Pretty nice job,very good and clear information,thanks from Brasil!.