I love this kind of analysis, it's a starting point whenever troubleshooting any mechanical problem. Not only does it help clarify diagnosis, it makes the challenge of diagnosis so much more interesting.
The main issue I've had with this type of set-up is obtaining an air tight seal between carb and tank. The mating surfaces warp from years of heat exposure and causes a host of issues. Briggs reccomends scratching the metal surface as a means of rectifying the issue. Another great video! Thank you sir!
Thanks for your quite brilliant explanation of the workings of this carb. I've changed a diaphragm before but never really understood what went on with the various parts involved. Cheers :)
You sir are a great teacher!👍 The only thing to make this a better video would be to use animation for the working of the carburetor. Thank You brilliant teacher!🙂
I was stuck in the middle of throwing out my Briggs & Stratton lawnmower ( because the person I lent it to, broke it!) But thanks to great blokes like you, I'm replacing all the broken bits and putting in a new diaphragm! I really don't won't to waste another 3-500 dollars on a new mower when it's just the crazy high revs I need to fix, right? Appreciate your time for making the video and showing us the great details of the carby. Helps alot!
Nice video. I have changed that black diaphragm only once in twenty years. Used the original one. Great engine, still running. I service it myself every year. I actually went over to multi grade synthetic oil a few years ago since I use the same oil for the car and the snow blower.
What a brilliantly put together video with excellent explanations as to what’s going on! This must be the best video analysis of the Briggs and Stratton carb on TH-cam. Thanks for sharing! I now know I definitely need a genuine diaphragm and gasket! I used a non genuine one and it lasted about a month! The thing refuses to start and I think it’s those tiny little flaps on the diaphragm! It will start with easy start and carries on running fine but refuses to start even while hot!
I'm absolutely delighted to hear that you found the explanation of the Briggs and Stratton Classic/Sprint carburetor design helpful and informative! It's always fantastic to gain a deeper understanding of how these components work. I'm confident that with your newfound knowledge, you'll be able to tackle your carburetor fix successfully. Thank you. Craig
Excellent Excellent Excellent. You put so much into your videos it's unbelievable. You explain everything, extremeley well,and patiently. I have watched quite a few of your videos, each equally as good. Thank you for your time and obvious great efforts. Very good ,very educational. Thanks again Ray
I really appreciate all that you’ve put into this video!!! I’m working on a Murray 20” push mower and the unit would start from priming it then it would die out like it ran out of fuel. When I cleaned the carb, I made sure everything was clean and passage ways were clear and even used the ultrasonic cleaner I have which works great for these smaller carbs. Just have to watch what type of cleaner you use cause the carbs are plastic. The diaphragm and gasket looked ok but did have a few small tears and I didn’t think much of it because I wasn’t exactly sure how the fuel induction worked with this type of set up. But watching your video showed me instantly how important that diaphragm really is and how the tank works with the carburetor in the whole fuel intake process. I knew right away what my issue was then and how the main jet wasn’t being supplied fuel due to the diaphragm not working correctly. I get the needed diaphragm and gasket tomorrow and will put it all back together and prayerfully it will run like a top!!! I’m used to working on motorcycles and I know CV carbs quite well. I don’t usually work on lawnmowers but I wanted to help a neighbor out and save him lots of money for labor. Thanks again for all of your knowledge and you seem to want to help out folks and that’s a rare thing these days because lots of folks hoard their knowledge for some reason and don’t like to help others out. I will help anyone out and share any knowledge I may have so that guy or gal that wants to learn will have that bit of knowledge and experience to get their equipment running properly. God bless and thanks again!
Thanks for the explanation, good to know how it works. A year ago, I changed the diaphragm and gasket,. I didn't use the mower much, but now there are problems again as the new season begins. Primer works, when primed, the engine starts and stalls after a few seconds. It won't start if not primed again, but will if primed and then quickly stalls again. I wonder if the diaphragm is faulty already, or the problem could be elsewhere ? Before changing I had the same diaphragm / gasket for years.
HI. It could be the diaphragm if it wasn't a genuine B & S one fitted, rather a non-genuine replacement, but i think it might be some blockage through the carb. It might be a good idea to just take a look see. Thank you for your kind feedback. Craig
Have had a running rich on these carbs several times. Changed the diaphragms with no luck. Replacing with new carbs was cure. But I would like to know why the run rich. Thanks!
The relationship of the height of fuel inside the main jet reservoir to the top of the main jet is important. A restriction in the supply side, poor valve sealing, gasket leak or a distorted plastic carb body will cause a lean mixture and loss of power. The Venturi is fixed, designed by size for the volume of air the engine requires, so swapping a tank/carb complete from say a 3hp engine to a 5ho engine will require more fuel and air. The jets control the fuel yet the Venturi becomes a restriction. Also, the air speeds up as it passes thru the Venturi and effects the amount of fuel drawn from the main jet even on the intake stroke. The may provide an idle jet if cable controlled. A bypass slot as the throttle valve opens from a closed position. This provides a smooth and even transition from idle to part open, then the main jet supplies fuel to wide open throttle. I do not small engines with a throttle cable as they are forced to start with no oil supply on moving parts, then increase oil volume with speed. This design only serves those power equipment devices that require a low profile top engine section. This would otherwise allow a gravity fed carb by a float bowl, seat & needle to regulate fuel level. It eliminates the fragile rubber covered cloth diaphragm and valve action that opens, closes and flexes under a pulsing spring as during a compression stroke further stressing the wear on this poor diaphragm. Some may say; "Other engines use a diaphragm like this!" Yes, but the device is designed to be operated at any angle or position. Plus they usually two stroke that require a proper 40 parts fuel to 1 part oil mix. They have to make these where the end user cannot damage the engine. Now oil/gas mix is sold in stores, one more thing of convenience or is the end user not smart enough to count to 40:1? I have worked on lawnmowers since the late 60's and automotive electronic fuel injection since 1976 in the USA. Yes, their was only two built and sold and we are NOT talking mechanical fuel injection of which only 2 designs work very well. I enjoyed carburetors but it quickly became too complex to control for altitude, de-acceleration, hot, cold and trapped fuel tank vapors, etc. Very well done. Very little I would change in the presentation. Good job! DK. ASE Master Tech since 78
Bit of a tip! These carbs being plastic are prone to distortion over time on the gasket face which allows air to enter between the faces I have found 2 diaphragms inserted together instead of 1 with the gasket work better on older machines
Not saying You are wrong, but I cant get My Head around the use of Two Diaphragms , surely Two wouldnt effect Air entering, but would effect the proper operation of the Carburetor.....When You consider the Pumping action of the Diaphragm being altered compared to a single one ......The use of Two Gaskets, then Yes I would understand that, but Two Diaphragms ??? Could You give more of an explanation please .
@@pigeonworldforum3869 yes of course. What I plan on doing, which I should have mentioned more clearly is that I want to make a video testing this and comparing 2 diaphragms on a machine and another with just the one. I'm not sure when I will get round to actually doing this but hopefully won't be long. Thanks Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist Many Thanks Craig, This Video has been the most detailed explanation of This Type of Briggs and Stratton Carburetor I have ever seen .....and has given Me a much better insight as to how the Fuel Tank and Carb Work in conjunction with Each Other . Will be looking forward to Your Comparison Video in Future .
In my experience the fault occurs when the carbs get distorted over time, the main problem is instead of the diaphragm being pinched and held between the so called mating surfaces of the metal tank/gasket and plastic carb it gets sucked in which allows air in and sometimes fuel out. So by putting 2 diaphragm on (one usually the old one) it in fact acts as though the diaphragm is a thicker one and "pinches" better. I hardly ever have comebacks after doing that fix, whereas if I've put manufacturers kit on, it seems to rear its head more often. Putting extra gaskets on I've found is too much of a thickness and doesn't allow pumping section to work correctly.
This was good video, but I still am not getting the purpose of the pipe going from the area after the filter, going to the the fuel inject port. And I am not sure about how the choking is working when there is just the throttle valve. Isn't the engine start done on full throttle open. Would you be so kind to explain that?
I like the two stroke Tillotson carburetor brand myself. I find these to be quite reliable. Just my opinion. Thanks for asking and for your nice feedback. Craig
excellent! I have this carb on a rotto tiller. Stops running when fuel tank is slightly less than full. When running fuel spashes out of breather holes in cap! Do i have a bad cap?
You might be right there. You could well have. When your engine starts to decline into the symptoms you have mentioned, it may be worth loosening the cap very slightly and see if you can keep the engine running longer. Then you should know. I'm aware that tillers bounces around quite a lot in their normal working operation so you don't want any fuel spillage. This is why I said to open the cap very slightly not to allow spillage. If you would rather not do this not then another way to indicate this problem can be to allow the engine to stop by itself and then get close enough to the fuel tank cap so that when you open it you can hare if there is a hissing sound present. This is the air rushing into the fuel tank because of that vacuum build up. Its just a case of getting a new cap if this is the case. I would start with these and go from there. Thanks, Craig
I decided to take my brand new lawnmower out the box after 18 months. It was running fantastically until the blade caught an old tree stump. It now fails to start and I have no warranty. I've only run the darn thing for 20 minutes from new, any suggestions as to what it could be, I used fresh fuel. I have compression with the blade moving when I pull the cord. So I don't think anything's seized. It's failing to start and nothings coming out of the exhaust. Thanks in advance.
Ok. It seems to me that if it was working well before you hit the stump then unfortunately this could be the problem. When blades hit stumps they stop dead in their tracks but the engine still turns slightly (too small to notice by the operator). The timing can then be knocked out of wack as a result! I can't say this is definitely the case but it sounds like a good possibility. Your flywheel timing key needs to be checked to see if it is sheared because this would mean that engine is not sparking at the correct time due to the flywheel now positioned incorrectly on the crankshaft. Your blade timing boss and key also need to be checked. Sometimes, mowers show starting problems from the latter as a result of the blade positioned incorrectly rather than being fixed in an absolute certain place on the crankshaft where it was designed to be. Again this is because the blade boss or key may be sheared. Also, you will need to check to see if your crankshaft isn't bent because this can happen when hitting objects with mowers at this level. To do this, the blade and the blade boss need to be removed and by carefully watching the end of the crank whilst turning the engine slowly, you will see a wobble if it is bent. I may well be over reacting here but i have seen this type of damage resulting from this type of accident before. If you aren't confident to look into this problem yourself then you may want to take your mower to a mechanic. That's the best i can tell you at the moment unfortunately. I hope this helps. Thanks, Craig
Strange I put them the way you did in the video it wouldn’t run then put them diaphragm carb side ran like new maybe it’s a different model but looks the same
Ok. Fair enough, but that does seem a little odd to me. Maybe a different type like you said. As long as the machine is fixed and working well for you then all well and good 👍
Cool I'd love you to tell us why the new plastic Briggs carbs are such a pain I've had a few in I've done the cleans and they are spotless yet still Carnt get them to run right ... cleaned and checked all jets are clear and blown out with the air compressor yet still no good... arrrrrrhhhhhhhh
Ok, thank you for letting me know. I will be looking into making this video very soon. I have had quite a bit of headache with these carbs myself and have found some tips and tricks to deal with some of the issue. Keep watching. Its on the way! Thanks. Craig
Way too fast! You should not have edited out taking a breath. Those moments would give us a chance to follow the flying arrows. The information was good, but it was really really hard to follow without hitting the pause button, and then "rewinding."
He could explain and animate something complicated like this. Thanks for sharing.
This was one of the best explained videos I have ever watched... Excellent Job. Loaded with information.
Thank you for taking the time to make it.
Wow, thanks!
Brilliant. Very well done. Just the right pacing. Thanks for all the work that went into this!
I love this kind of analysis, it's a starting point whenever troubleshooting any mechanical problem. Not only does it help clarify diagnosis, it makes the challenge of diagnosis so much more interesting.
Thank you so much for your nice feedback. It's comments like yours that motivate me to continue making these videos. Craig 😀👍
Thank you for making the operation so clear. It is a pity that the manufacturer can not provide this type of explanation
The main issue I've had with this type of set-up is obtaining an air tight seal between carb and tank. The mating surfaces warp from years of heat exposure and causes a host of issues. Briggs reccomends scratching the metal surface as a means of rectifying the issue. Another great video! Thank you sir!
Yes I agree. This issue has given me headache a few times in the past. Thank you for your nice feed back. Craig
Thanks for your quite brilliant explanation of the workings of this carb. I've changed a diaphragm before but never really understood what went on with the various parts involved. Cheers :)
You sir are a great teacher!👍 The only thing to make this a better video would be to use animation for the working of the carburetor.
Thank You brilliant teacher!🙂
I was stuck in the middle of throwing out my Briggs & Stratton lawnmower ( because the person I lent it to, broke it!) But thanks to great blokes like you, I'm replacing all the broken bits and putting in a new diaphragm! I really don't won't to waste another 3-500 dollars on a new mower when it's just the crazy high revs I need to fix, right? Appreciate your time for making the video and showing us the great details of the carby. Helps alot!
Nice video. I have changed that black diaphragm only once in twenty years. Used the original one. Great engine, still running. I service it myself every year. I actually went over to multi grade synthetic oil a few years ago since I use the same oil for the car and the snow blower.
Very well done! This is a very clear explanation of how these types of carburetors work.
Thank you! 👍👍👍
Just adding to the chorus - this is a great video. Super detailed, thoughtful, and informative. Thank you!
Wow great video !! Excellent job of explaining how a carb works on these small engines. Thank You !
Thank you so much for your nice feedback. It's comments like yours that motivate me to continue making these videos. Craig 😀👍
perfectly explained!
What a brilliantly put together video with excellent explanations as to what’s going on! This must be the best video analysis of the Briggs and Stratton carb on TH-cam. Thanks for sharing! I now know I definitely need a genuine diaphragm and gasket! I used a non genuine one and it lasted about a month! The thing refuses to start and I think it’s those tiny little flaps on the diaphragm! It will start with easy start and carries on running fine but refuses to start even while hot!
Blimey! It's clever isn't it? I know more about that carb than I ever thought possible!! Got to fix mine now.
I'm absolutely delighted to hear that you found the explanation of the Briggs and Stratton Classic/Sprint carburetor design helpful and informative! It's always fantastic to gain a deeper understanding of how these components work. I'm confident that with your newfound knowledge, you'll be able to tackle your carburetor fix successfully. Thank you. Craig
Excellent Excellent Excellent.
You put so much into your videos it's unbelievable. You explain everything, extremeley well,and patiently.
I have watched quite a few of your videos, each equally as good. Thank you for your time and obvious great efforts. Very good ,very educational.
Thanks again Ray
Wow, thank you! I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍👍
Just best explenations ever for small engines... Thanks for making this videos!!!
I really appreciate all that you’ve put into this video!!! I’m working on a Murray 20” push mower and the unit would start from priming it then it would die out like it ran out of fuel. When I cleaned the carb, I made sure everything was clean and passage ways were clear and even used the ultrasonic cleaner I have which works great for these smaller carbs. Just have to watch what type of cleaner you use cause the carbs are plastic. The diaphragm and gasket looked ok but did have a few small tears and I didn’t think much of it because I wasn’t exactly sure how the fuel induction worked with this type of set up. But watching your video showed me instantly how important that diaphragm really is and how the tank works with the carburetor in the whole fuel intake process. I knew right away what my issue was then and how the main jet wasn’t being supplied fuel due to the diaphragm not working correctly. I get the needed diaphragm and gasket tomorrow and will put it all back together and prayerfully it will run like a top!!! I’m used to working on motorcycles and I know CV carbs quite well. I don’t usually work on lawnmowers but I wanted to help a neighbor out and save him lots of money for labor. Thanks again for all of your knowledge and you seem to want to help out folks and that’s a rare thing these days because lots of folks hoard their knowledge for some reason and don’t like to help others out. I will help anyone out and share any knowledge I may have so that guy or gal that wants to learn will have that bit of knowledge and experience to get their equipment running properly. God bless and thanks again!
Beautiful explanation. Gratefull
Thank you for your awesome feedback. 👍
The fuel pump aspect of the diaphragm is described around 14:00.
I still suggest watching every second of the video.
Thanks for the explanation, good to know how it works. A year ago, I changed the diaphragm and gasket,. I didn't use the mower much, but now there are problems again as the new season begins. Primer works, when primed, the engine starts and stalls after a few seconds. It won't start if not primed again, but will if primed and then quickly stalls again. I wonder if the diaphragm is faulty already, or the problem could be elsewhere ? Before changing I had the same diaphragm / gasket for years.
HI. It could be the diaphragm if it wasn't a genuine B & S one fitted, rather a non-genuine replacement, but i think it might be some blockage through the carb. It might be a good idea to just take a look see. Thank you for your kind feedback. Craig
Excellent. Thank you
Thank you, I work on small engine in Jamaica.
Great 👍
Excellent video!
Very nice! Great explanations and diagrams!
Thank you so much for the nice feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig
Have had a running rich on these carbs several times. Changed the diaphragms with no luck. Replacing with new carbs was cure. But I would like to know why the run rich. Thanks!
The relationship of the height of fuel inside the main jet reservoir to the top of the main jet is important. A restriction in the supply side, poor valve sealing, gasket leak or a distorted plastic carb body will cause a lean mixture and loss of power. The Venturi is fixed, designed by size for the volume of air the engine requires, so swapping a tank/carb complete from say a 3hp engine to a 5ho engine will require more fuel and air. The jets control the fuel yet the Venturi becomes a restriction. Also, the air speeds up as it passes thru the Venturi and effects the amount of fuel drawn from the main jet even on the intake stroke. The may provide an idle jet if cable controlled. A bypass slot as the throttle valve opens from a closed position. This provides a smooth and even transition from idle to part open, then the main jet supplies fuel to wide open throttle.
I do not small engines with a throttle cable as they are forced to start with no oil supply on moving parts, then increase oil volume with speed. This design only serves those power equipment devices that require a low profile top engine section. This would otherwise allow a gravity fed carb by a float bowl, seat & needle to regulate fuel level. It eliminates the fragile rubber covered cloth diaphragm and valve action that opens, closes and flexes under a pulsing spring as during a compression stroke further stressing the wear on this poor diaphragm.
Some may say; "Other engines use a diaphragm like this!" Yes, but the device is designed to be operated at any angle or position. Plus they usually two stroke that require a proper 40 parts fuel to 1 part oil mix. They have to make these where the end user cannot damage the engine. Now oil/gas mix is sold in stores, one more thing of convenience or is the end user not smart enough to count to 40:1?
I have worked on lawnmowers since the late 60's and automotive electronic fuel injection since 1976 in the USA. Yes, their was only two built and sold and we are NOT talking mechanical fuel injection of which only 2 designs work very well. I enjoyed carburetors but it quickly became too complex to control for altitude, de-acceleration, hot, cold and trapped fuel tank vapors, etc.
Very well done. Very little I would change in the presentation. Good job! DK. ASE Master Tech since 78
Well done fantastic, job.👍
Bit of a tip! These carbs being plastic are prone to distortion over time on the gasket face which allows air to enter between the faces I have found 2 diaphragms inserted together instead of 1 with the gasket work better on older machines
Yes, Thank you for mentioning that. I should have included it in the video. Thanks again. Craig
Not saying You are wrong, but I cant get My Head around the use of Two Diaphragms , surely Two wouldnt effect Air entering, but would effect the proper operation of the Carburetor.....When You consider the Pumping action of the Diaphragm being altered compared to a single one ......The use of Two Gaskets, then Yes I would understand that, but Two Diaphragms ??? Could You give more of an explanation please .
@@pigeonworldforum3869 yes of course. What I plan on doing, which I should have mentioned more clearly is that I want to make a video testing this and comparing 2 diaphragms on a machine and another with just the one. I'm not sure when I will get round to actually doing this but hopefully won't be long. Thanks Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist Many Thanks Craig, This Video has been the most detailed explanation of This Type of Briggs and Stratton Carburetor I have ever seen .....and has given Me a much better insight as to how the Fuel Tank and Carb Work in conjunction with Each Other . Will be looking forward to Your Comparison Video in Future .
In my experience the fault occurs when the carbs get distorted over time, the main problem is instead of the diaphragm being pinched and held between the so called mating surfaces of the metal tank/gasket and plastic carb it gets sucked in which allows air in and sometimes fuel out. So by putting 2 diaphragm on (one usually the old one) it in fact acts as though the diaphragm is a thicker one and "pinches" better. I hardly ever have comebacks after doing that fix, whereas if I've put manufacturers kit on, it seems to rear its head more often.
Putting extra gaskets on I've found is too much of a thickness and doesn't allow pumping section to work correctly.
This was good video, but I still am not getting the purpose of the pipe going from the area after the filter, going to the the fuel inject port. And I am not sure about how the choking is working when there is just the throttle valve. Isn't the engine start done on full throttle open. Would you be so kind to explain that?
Fantastic. Very well done and thank you.
Thank you so much for your nice feedback. It's comments like yours that motivate me to continue making these videos. Craig 😀👍
A very clear and comprehensive explanation. Excellent!
What do you think is the best carburettor you have come across?
I like the two stroke Tillotson carburetor brand myself. I find these to be quite reliable. Just my opinion. Thanks for asking and for your nice feedback. Craig
Good video. Thank you.
I'd really like to see a video on a 4-stroke, cup style carb, like on a Honda or Kabota.
Thank you
Wow. This is great.
Very good👍
Really really detailed video, its clear you put a lot of time into this. Thank you for making it clear how it works!!!
Thank you so much for your nice feedback. It's comments like yours that motivate me to continue making these videos. Craig 😀👍
excellent! I have this carb on a rotto tiller. Stops running when fuel tank is slightly less than full. When running fuel spashes out of breather holes in cap! Do i have a bad cap?
You might be right there. You could well have. When your engine starts to decline into the symptoms you have mentioned, it may be worth loosening the cap very slightly and see if you can keep the engine running longer. Then you should know. I'm aware that tillers bounces around quite a lot in their normal working operation so you don't want any fuel spillage. This is why I said to open the cap very slightly not to allow spillage.
If you would rather not do this not then another way to indicate this problem can be to allow the engine to stop by itself and then get close enough to the fuel tank cap so that when you open it you can hare if there is a hissing sound present. This is the air rushing into the fuel tank because of that vacuum build up. Its just a case of getting a new cap if this is the case.
I would start with these and go from there. Thanks, Craig
i have this carb brand new it starts but stall. But if I fill the tank to the top it runs just fine.
Amazing 😇
Thank you! Cheers!
I decided to take my brand new lawnmower out the box after 18 months. It was running fantastically until the blade caught an old tree stump. It now fails to start and I have no warranty. I've only run the darn thing for 20 minutes from new, any suggestions as to what it could be, I used fresh fuel. I have compression with the blade moving when I pull the cord. So I don't think anything's seized. It's failing to start and nothings coming out of the exhaust.
Thanks in advance.
Ok. It seems to me that if it was working well before you hit the stump then unfortunately this could be the problem. When blades hit stumps they stop dead in their tracks but the engine still turns slightly (too small to notice by the operator). The timing can then be knocked out of wack as a result! I can't say this is definitely the case but it sounds like a good possibility.
Your flywheel timing key needs to be checked to see if it is sheared because this would mean that engine is not sparking at the correct time due to the flywheel now positioned incorrectly on the crankshaft. Your blade timing boss and key also need to be checked. Sometimes, mowers show starting problems from the latter as a result of the blade positioned incorrectly rather than being fixed in an absolute certain place on the crankshaft where it was designed to be. Again this is because the blade boss or key may be sheared.
Also, you will need to check to see if your crankshaft isn't bent because this can happen when hitting objects with mowers at this level. To do this, the blade and the blade boss need to be removed and by carefully watching the end of the crank whilst turning the engine slowly, you will see a wobble if it is bent.
I may well be over reacting here but i have seen this type of damage resulting from this type of accident before.
If you aren't confident to look into this problem yourself then you may want to take your mower to a mechanic. That's the best i can tell you at the moment unfortunately. I hope this helps. Thanks, Craig
the diapham sits against the carb body on mine opposite of whats illustrated in this video??
Then you have it the wrong way round. If you have this type of engine and carb system then place the diaphragms as shown and it will be correct
Strange I put them the way you did in the video it wouldn’t run then put them diaphragm carb side ran like new maybe it’s a different model but looks the same
Ok. Fair enough, but that does seem a little odd to me. Maybe a different type like you said. As long as the machine is fixed and working well for you then all well and good 👍
Cool I'd love you to tell us why the new plastic Briggs carbs are such a pain I've had a few in I've done the cleans and they are spotless yet still Carnt get them to run right ... cleaned and checked all jets are clear and blown out with the air compressor yet still no good... arrrrrrhhhhhhhh
Ok, thank you for letting me know. I will be looking into making this video very soon. I have had quite a bit of headache with these carbs myself and have found some tips and tricks to deal with some of the issue. Keep watching. Its on the way! Thanks. Craig
You would be Agent 007 I presume?
Way too fast! You should not have edited out taking a breath. Those moments would give us a chance to follow the flying arrows. The information was good, but it was really really hard to follow without hitting the pause button, and then "rewinding."
Noted! Thanks
Change the diaphragm annually? That's ridiculous. Who in their right mind would buy something like that?
Crap design if engine gets too hot plastic carb distorts hardly had trouble with old metal ones
Anyone who want their machine to run well with no issues!! I should know I have changed hundreds of them