You stole my joke lol my grandfather said that to me growing up it was funny as I did live but that gas had my confused at the time till that rat I thought was my grandfather stopped talking to me. Man what a day that was
In the old days we rebuilt a lot of engines and never had these types of problems BUT then everything was mechanical, no electronics and a lot more simple. Also had an old Diamond-T truck, looked like crap but just kept running, had a huge radiator and barely got warm. My current Ram 1500 had a new radiator put in a few months ago and it runs really cool, every out here in the desert when temps are above 110. Glad to see all the work you guys are doing and that things are looking up on the wrecker.
Your crew reminds me of growing up with my dad helping him with his logging business. It was always cool having people around the shop maintaining equipment
I appreciate that they’re using for all intents and purposes a junkyard engine. I can’t stand the shows that have $1 million budget ordering crate motors and thousands of dollars of merchandise from specific online retailers which turns the entire build into a commercial. I love the way Matt and the crew just make a deal. And transform regular cars and trucks with just stuff anybody could get.
I can see Matt driving down main street Dr. Pepper in hand without the cab, just a seat, steering column and a big smile, Mad Max ish. Winter is coming, it be time to show the Snow Cat some lovin. Never a days rest.
I once saw a rolling truck chassis being delivered to coach builders, which was being driven with no body parts. The driver was out in the open, wearing a motorcycle helmet. Thinking about the Heavy Wrecker, it can surely have room for no more than two, or three at a stretch, people, so they'll still have to take the Morvair or Jeep for the crew.
@Stu Nick I was thinking about the Snow Cat the other day as well. News last night was showing snow in Co. already. Sooo much to do, So little time. The Frankenana is Job One for now though.
Didn't realize that there could be so much drama and fun when zeros and ones get together with air, fuel, and spark for the 1st time! 😂 Awesome to see this and thanks for sharing with us guys!!!
Remember last century when you could drop an engine in, hook up 3 wires and it would fire right up. I'm still hooked on the old 400/406/421 small blocks. I only have 2 left, a built 421 ci/500+ hp circle track engine and a complete untouched stock 400. I'm not smart enough nor are my pockets deep enough for these new gen engines. Glad you're sharing the build with us, Thanks
Those thermal cameras have a hard time with shiny surfaces. Hit a spot on each header with some exhaust paint and you will get a more reliable look at what's going on. Loving the build! Keep it up!
It is all about "emissivity" which varies with the material and the surface. In the mid 80's I worked for RayTek building and calibrating IR temperature measuring systems.
@@rickstorm4198 Laser points also have limitations with reflective surfaces. My laser point came with a reflective surface chart based on material if I recall correctly.
Hey Matt, you need to swap the flow path in the radiators. The rear radiator, which is receiving the hottest air, should also get the hottest coolant. Then pass the once cooled coolant, to the front radiator which is receiving the coolest air. Its all a game of temperature differentials between coolant and air. And you want to keep that differential as high as possible. The way you have it plumbed will only end up passing the hottest air through the coldest coolant.
@@buellb0y Sure, that's how a single radiator works too, and that's basically what you'd have in this configuration because the rear radiator won't have enough of a delta (temperature difference, or thermal gradient) to dissipate much heat. If you're feeding 170F air into the rear radiator from the front one, and then you pump 170F coolant through the rear one, you're going to end up with 170F coolant coming out, meaning your rear radiator did absolutely nothing for you. It's not quite that drastic, but when your cooling air and coolant are close together, dissipating heat requires an exponential increase in surface area dependent on the thermal gradient. In layman's terms, that means if your coolant and cooling air are nearly the same for the rear radiator, dissipating the same heat as that front radiator with an ideal delta would require 4x the surface area for the rear radiator. So why bother with two if you're getting virtually all of your cooling from one? Ideally, a simple baffle separating the two radiators would give even better cooling than having the coolant lines properly routed, since you could give the front radiator ambient air directly from the grill and pass it up and over the rear radiator to the engine bay, while the rear radiator is pulling ambient air from underneath the chassis and pushing it directly into the engine bay. Then it wouldn't matter which radiator gets the coolant first because they're both getting the best delta possible from air at ambient temps. There's enough room between them that it won't affect the volume of airflow going into either. It would be a simple matter of dropping in a flat sheet of aluminum diagonally between the bottom of the front radiator and top of the rear radiator, boxing in the sides between the rear radiator and baffle with two triangular sheets, then securing them all in place. Air leaving the front radiator will be able to go over the baffle and around the sides, while the air going into the rear radiator is coming entirely from the bottom. It doesn't need to seal perfectly, but it wouldn't hurt to minimize gaps either. It would also have the additional benefit of having some airflow in the vicinity of the other coolers located in that area, since it'll be moving air in that vicinity any time the engine is idling, rather than letting it sit and hope the wind is blowing over them. Make everything work to your advantage by having everything work together.
LT is the man!!! He also helped me ,when I was building the top end of my Viper Truck with the 8.3 V10. He is extremely smart,and his wisdom is priceless!! Cheers from Canada!!!
Matt, I have an 8.1L Suburban and love it! Unsolicited advice: keep an eye on the oil level when you put the wrecker into service. 8.1L are documented oil burners. I go through 1 qt. semi-synthetic every 3K miles of regular driving, 1 qt. every 1K towing, and 1 qt. full synthetic every 1K regular driving and 800 towing. I bought it with 120K miles, have put on 50K, and tested different oils and conditions with same results but my experience may be mine alone.
Lizzie is going to be a master welder one day. It’s cool to see her just tackle anything you set in front of her now without hesitation… She doesn’t even look remotely nervous anymore. Looks excited. Right on!
For me, Best Episode Seen To Date! Loved the troubleshooting, calibration, problem solving and especially the editing which showed everyone contributing. Authentic teamwork. Thanks For Showing.
Trust me as a header builder for decades 2-1/2” tubing will do fine for 500hp! As always it all depends on the engine and what it likes, the engine builder is the one that typically drives the the design and type of header that goes with the application. And trust when I say there is a absolute SCIENCE to that stuff!
Wow what a job this was tuning this 8.1 V8. Tom is a valuable asset to have around for these problems and many more! I love Jamie sitting there with her phone not paying attention to what's going on she's seen so much of it already! Trevor is another good one to have around. This whole team came together and made progress today. I can't wait to see it in action!
Just want to thank you guys. When I started my journey with MORR, the only things I knew about car engines were battery and windshield fluid. After watching your videos, I know what l those parts do. My mechanic no longer sounds like he's speaking Chinese when he's explaining what just broke. Thanjs guys
I continue to be amazed at all the work involved in the Big Banana build! The fabrication, the mechanical and engine work, etc. Trevor and Tom Tom are worth their weight in gold! And Lizzy is quickly becoming a senior level fabricator, while it appears the crew behind the scenes doing the filming and editing are par excellence! And then there is 'old' Matt, keeping it all headed in the right direction! I can hardly wait for each new episode!!👍
I love how you guys work through your problems and show us how you did it, awesome job! 👍 I was watching an episode of “Dirt everyday”, where they had an 80’s something Chevy Army pickup truck with a 6.2 Detroit diesel in it. They brought it into the shop to sort some things out. Fred left it to his mechanics while he showed his viewers how to make a cup holder out of a bean bag! 🤪 He came back to the shop and the truck had been LS swapped!?!? Never watched another episode
Give me the old flat heads. Engine Computers can be a night mare to tune. Just like to have timing and points to set. I guess I am a little old. Great progress and will look forward when it wheels up the mountains on work.
I look forward to these wrecker build videos all week. Trevor, Lizzy, TomTom, Skeeder, and Tucker add happiness to my day. Thanks for the great content.
I am all exited watching you tinker with that engine, used to have a concrete block factory some years ago, and enjoyed designing parts of the plant. Then today I just remembered that back in the late 60's (when I was a kid) my dad loved to tinker in his cars, unfortunately he also yelled at his children while we were helping. I just realized that I have a heart for mechanics, but thought I hated that, it was all dormant in my childhood. Thank you again Matt, you do a lot more than you realize.
The motto i came up with way back when I worked for a certain remodeling company in Medfield Massachusetts was " We know it's right because we've done it twice!". We seemed to always have to go back and pull things apart because we were moving to fast and we would always forget things.
I really enjoyed this. Remind me of being 16 again with my first project project truck, a 79 F150. Trial and error, new parts, phone a friend and crossed wires.
Matt, take a 9/16" (15 mm) wrench, loosen the distributor, adjust by sound, then retighten distributor. Oh, wait..... wrong century. Never mind, keep doing what you're doing.
Even in this century, many times you still have to adjust your crank/cam sensors to give signal when you are actually at position. So you are not tuning the system with it, just calibrating the sensor to give TDC reading when you are actually at TDC and you are done with it on the mechanics side.
You could go into the fuel table add or take away then add or regard timing kinda same as what you said but newer engine it seems like Matt always has to go through the hard way
Gap the points with a dime, advance timing until it just starts to 'ping' under load, back-off timing just enough to eliminate ping under load & your done ! ! !
Great troubleshooting gentlemen. This beast is going to be fun to watch. I bet with A/C on and idling in 110 degree weather you will need all that cooling.
It's going to overheat under load. Electric fans are for Camry's. NOTE: This engine does not come with electric fans... for a reason. Mechanical fans use 4 hp for a reason. They move more air.
@@mrpasciak92 probaly because when race cars are under heavy load it's not that long. Also they have methanol etc to help cool aswell. But I'm not saying you're wrong. Watching race week might makes sense.
@@mrpasciak92 Not enough CFM. Don't see them on any trucks do ya? Nope. There's no magic to moving air. All it takes is energy. The stock belt driven fan can be what, 3 to 5 horsepower? There's a reason. Imagine the electrical system it would take to turn two, 2 hp fans. That's a LOT of juice. Fans are a frequent discussion on our Jeep forums. Matt's Jeeps (and Rory's) are usually running hot all summer. XJ's are at a disadvantage. Stock, they came with a smallish belt driven fan and a med size electric fan. They automatically run hot here. (I live 30 min from Death Valley) My Jeep can handle any heat on Earth because I had a radiator custom made by a shop in Henderson Nevada. ($$$$) It's huge, takes up the whole front of my Jeep with a custom shroud. YES, the fan robs a lot of power when it's hot but it doesn't ever overheat. Matt will eventually get it worked out, that I'm sure of. Cooling systems are my specialty.
Great video Matt and crew. Remiinds me when I took my 76 half ton 2 whl drive and made a 4x4 out of it and swapped out the old 350 eng. And installed a 95 LT one. Hung my head in silence many times but was worth it name it bits and pieces that was 25 years ago. Truck still running great not so much for my old body ( lol )be safe and enjoy life.
Tom Tom with the CO humor. Bare metal is deceiving on an IR camera. The problem is the emissivity is low. The camera is probably expecting 0.95 or so. Bare steel is varies quite a bit based on how polished it is, but the shinier it is the lower the emissivity. In some cases when looking at metal the IR camera can actually pick up reflections of something else. You can try painting them with header paint to get a consistent value that is closer to what the camera expects.
@@marvindebot3264 Sure, if you know, but even if you polish the metal some level of oxidation will form on it especially once its hot and then what does the emissivity become? A painted surface should be pretty close to 0.9 or 0.95. It's not uncommon to paint something you are going to look at with an IR camera just to make sure the emissivity is consistent. It appears they are mainly doing comparative tests, so maybe it isn't critical to make sure the reading is accurate, but I just wanted to point out the common issue when looking at metals with a thermal camera.
Once you've had a very stressful, complex job that's always changing, and thousands of people depend on you, a job assembling something starts to sound pretty appealing. Lol
I'm not trying to tell you what to do but while you're working on this vehicle and you're starting and stopping the engine and using the computer and things like that you may want to have a shutdown checklist so you shut down things in a certain order so that someone doesn't inadvertently disconnect the battery while you're still working on the computer so this problem doesn't happen. This way you put one person in charge when you stop the engine for whatever reason then that person can say stop this stop that and then you know what's going on that might be beneficial. I really do enjoy watching you guys work and the fact that you're making things run from what you have that's the important thing as you said you don't have brand new stuff that has everything's perfectly tuned, you got to make it work and that's an art that's being lost these days, just having to figure it out, but also that's the fun part.
Love Rudy's channel, but miss seeing him on here doing recoveries. The recoveries you do are so great. Love watching this channel, been watching some we joined around 150,000 subscribers
I've had that exact issue of the swapped CPS wires. It took me much longer to figure out, I was running an oscilloscope on every sensor and comparing them to the factory waveforms in the service manual and everything. It didn't help that there was such a long time between swapping the engine and trying to start it that I had forgotten I ever even messed with the wires for that sensor. Huge props to your team for figuring that out so quick that's a hard diagnosis 😅
It’s kinda cool seeing you use those long cherry bombs on there. I did two long cherry bombs to a 3” in my Silverado and I was able to make a good cheap exhaust that didn’t have the terrible rasp most chevys have with the more expensive exhaust kits.
Matt I can hardly wait for this to go on the road, I recall an AIRPLANE they rebuilt, just would not start,,the distributor was 180degrees out of synch , when it was noticed, first crank,it STARTED Stay well, 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Ya "bricked" the computer.. Dropping power during a read/write is total havoc to the PCM. Got lucky they could get it fixed remotely. Can't wait to see this monster on the trails.
I think that is the power of the tech they called in for help as he knew what to do. I think I once bricked a PC a good number of years ago by trying to upgrade the BIOS and it all went sideways but at that time, I think the answer was, you were done for. Now, not certain if you can fix it or not but anyway, I do not bother with the BIOS. I have updated all the drivers however for the motherboard on several occasions successfully.
@@johnhpalmer6098 In the old days, a failed BIOS install could really only be fixed by replacing the BIOS memory (like literally removing and soldering a new one in). Nowadays, they have a redundant chip that they'll reload from, sometimes if you switch a jumper and sometimes just automatically if the BIOS fails to initialize.
@@JGuraan That's true, but most of us likely didn't know that we could just unsolder and replace the chip, let alone thought to do it, at least it never occurred to me in the past. I know more about computers now than I did back in the day.
@@johnhpalmer6098 Yeah, I don't know how easy it ever would have been to get ahold of one of those chips anyway. It'd probably be something you'd have to send the board to the manufacturer for, and who knows if they'd even be willing to do it. For all intents and purposes, prior to the redundant setup, a failed BIOS flash was a bricked mobo.
@@JGuraan That too, however, there are often markings on the top of the chip and a quick Google search these days can reveal the info on it, then you can likely find it's a common type of chip that can be had at places like Mouser and then replace, reflash with the correct BIOS info. Harder to do on older gear that's not been made in years or decades though, unless you can find an archive of older bios' from various manufacturers somewhere. Mind you it's all conjecture now since as you say, more modern computers have redundancies onboard the motherboards.
Hi Matt, Congratulations to you and the whole team for this awesome build! Having watched this video I'm still a bit concerned about the "cool" headers. You changed spark plugs, cables and injectors - a good idea, all three of them! But still the headers stayed way too cool. Before considering tuning I'd like to recommend a compression test of all cylinders and if the result is unsuspicious a pressure loss measurement should be done. Reason: Missing compression or too much loss of pressure on these cylinders would lead to a weak combustion and cool headers. It would be sad to invest all the effort in the wrecker and leave the engine as it is.
Hey Matt, are you guys planning on ceramic coating the exhaust since it sits relatively close to that compressed air tank? Compressed air is already gonna be hot and the heat soaking in from the exhaust could diminish the performance of your compressed air system and possibly cause a rupture of the tank.
Compressed air isn't hot. Once it is released into the tank, it rapidly cools from expansion. Only the copper tube between the compressor and the tank should be hot. Just like when an air tool gets cold in your hand and starts to sweat, same thing with the air in those tanks. That exhaust isn't going to affect the air.
@@Raindrops4891 Oh hell yeah, it'll melt your skin off lol. But as it expands into the tank, it'll cool off until it reaches equilibrium, where as it'll stop the compressor anyways. The small tube gets hot due to the small amount of metal to disperse the thermal energy it stores. This is why many times You'll see custom jobs take a long piece of copper tubing and make a long spiral out of it before it enters the tank, by the time it gets there it'll have kept the tube cool. The compressor heads are normally made with aluminum and have heat fins, so they wont get as warm as that copper. I work for government transit, so I deal with air brakes and suspension on a daily basis(well I normally work on the more complex stuff, like electrical hybris buses and a/c, engine codes, etc. But I've been doing this since I was 16, and I'll be 47 this month) so we have to maintain the air systems. Of course they don't use copper tubing anymore(they used to though), it's all rubber with stainless steel braided coverings. I'd rather have the copper though, it doesn't look at fancy but it lasts forever.
Like Dennis Collins would say " OUTSTANDING ". Oh and this recovery vehicle is the " Holy Grail " of wreckers. Definitely a team effort and the wait is shaping up to be well worth it. This truck is a wrecker man's wrecker. I feel like a kid at Christmas, I can hardly wait until this beast is doing what it is meant to do. And the plethora of winches assure success just about 100% if the time. Matt's will be the place that other wreckers call to have other big wreckers rescued. This truck is definitely on steroids, as you and your team added each winch the trucks muscles grew by a factor of 10. I'm curious as to the trucks alternator amperage. Either way 2 batteries are a minimum and I would guess that you will never be pushing the button on all of the winches at the same time.
Love the build. 2.5 true daul with only cherry bombs is absolutely sufficient flow for 600+HP no need for 3 inch. Unless want that low thunder sound in the cab that gets more annoying then 2.5inch will. Would been nice to see 4-2-1 headers because you made them so you had the chance and would helped with that low end torque
As always, I look forward to these updates and enjoy watching this beast come together. Again, I am so impressed by the skills and knowledge exhibited by every member of the team. I think it would be great to know the background and training of each member to better understand how each got so damn good at what they do. Perhaps one day this could be done. (for a change of pace 😉)
It's so damn awesome seeing Lizzy weld. I'm OSHA certified in tig, mig and flux core. It's one of my proudest and biggest accomplishments. The industry needs more women welders. In my opinion women are better at it because we have a steadier hand but also the patience to do it. Having a dad or grandfather to teach you and have faith in you when the majority doesn't is everything. She's very blessed to have you Matt. You should be very proud.
I'm on a bucket list vacation and I'm sitting in my hotel room watching Matt's. I may need therapy. Can't wait for the day the wrecker rolls on it's own power. Thanks MORR!
A Custom Built Fury Road BEAST by Matt's Off-Road Recovery! Basically, it's a Rock Crawling Tow Rescue Vehicle like no other. Remember - this thing is going to have 54" tires on it - six inches shy of FIVE FEET!
It’s possible that you’ll be better served with the 2 1/2” pipes over 3”, Improved low end torque. Also, maybe consider adding a crossover pipe to stabilize flow and improve the odd fire sound.
@Dave Hancock Excellent observation. Back pressure increases low end torque. Less restrictive 3" pipes allow more top end power at the expense of low end torque. Torque equals pulling power. RPMs equals speed.
@@tomparker9966 that is an old wives tale. the gas velocity through the collector is the only thing that matters, having too large a collector will limit the scavenging effect leading to worse VE and less peak cylinder pressure.
Way to work through the assembly & tuning stuff. Brings back memories working on engines before the era of computer controls! Thanks for sharing the video.
Yeah for real. I did just buy a 6.0ltr 400hp m120 v12 for a vintage Mercedes restomod project and I can't wait to see what it sounds like with minimal muffling. It's real hard to beat the sound of a V8 at idle or 6000rpm + though. My little 200ish hp 4.5 V8 sounds so good screaming 6500rpm.
I had Cherry Bombs on a 273 V8 and a 283 V8 and they were awesome, low rpm under a load sounded like pure horse power! Very quiet until you stepped on it hard and then it flat turned heads, sweet music! I can't wait to hear them on the monster Thanks for the video.
I agree with Ed the motor sounds amazing when it is idoling. I admire the way you guys work with what you have and get everything figured out. Keep up the great work
5:12 Cheerwine is DELICIOUS. My favorite soda, kinda hard to find in Indiana but the closer you get to North Carolina where they’ve been based about as long as cokes been around it’s a lot easier to find
Matt, you should consider doing a V-bands on the final exhaust. As much as you work on and as much as you remove parts to facilitate maintenance or repairs, a V-band is going to be much appreciated and make your life alot easier on removing the exhaust. Dont forget to call LT TOLMAN to tune her man, hes right down the street.
The 8.1 2500hd I had was an absolute beast. I did go with bigger injectors and high a high capacity dual fuel pump setup. Later on I did do a "mild" turbo setup. Easy dyno pulls showed 700ish but I never do any hard pulls because the dyno couldnt handle it. The wrecker shouldnt have any problems pulling pretty much anything. Can not wait to see the old girl in action.
I dunno guys... Looks like fuel map might have a nasty hole in it, better lengthen the injector pulse another millisecond and if need be, adjust the NOS timing. 😁 Rig's coming along nicely, thanks for sharing the progress!
I told my friend a joke about carbon monoxide poisoning…. He died laughing even though it was a tasteless joke.
Of course bleepin jeep would be in the comments with this kind of joke 🤣
That joke is deadly funny.
Badum tish!
That’s silent butt deadly! Lol
You stole my joke lol my grandfather said that to me growing up it was funny as I did live but that gas had my confused at the time till that rat I thought was my grandfather stopped talking to me. Man what a day that was
In the old days we rebuilt a lot of engines and never had these types of problems BUT then everything was mechanical, no electronics and a lot more simple. Also had an old Diamond-T truck, looked like crap but just kept running, had a huge radiator and barely got warm. My current Ram 1500 had a new radiator put in a few months ago and it runs really cool, every out here in the desert when temps are above 110. Glad to see all the work you guys are doing and that things are looking up on the wrecker.
Your crew reminds me of growing up with my dad helping him with his logging business. It was always cool having people around the shop maintaining equipment
Is that those things that just poke up out of the ground? 😆
@@Bryanja81 no it’s the things that hang from the heaven
I appreciate that they’re using for all intents and purposes a junkyard engine. I can’t stand the shows that have $1 million budget ordering crate motors and thousands of dollars of merchandise from specific online retailers which turns the entire build into a commercial. I love the way Matt and the crew just make a deal. And transform regular cars and trucks with just stuff anybody could get.
@@hidel308 That's why I stopped watching one of the channels that does it. I couldn't take any more of the commercials.
@@Bryanja81😢🎉😢
Awesome to see the 8.1 up and running good! I am excited to see how it drives in that big wrecker too...
I can see Matt driving down main street Dr. Pepper in hand without the cab, just a seat, steering column and a big smile, Mad Max ish. Winter is coming, it be time to show the Snow Cat some lovin. Never a days rest.
Little creepy doll head on his hat....
I once saw a rolling truck chassis being delivered to coach builders, which was being driven with no body parts. The driver was out in the open, wearing a motorcycle helmet. Thinking about the Heavy Wrecker, it can surely have room for no more than two, or three at a stretch, people, so they'll still have to take the Morvair or Jeep for the crew.
@Stu Nick I was thinking about the Snow Cat the other day as well. News last night was showing snow in Co. already. Sooo much to do, So little time. The Frankenana is Job One for now though.
Didn't realize that there could be so much drama and fun when zeros and ones get together with air, fuel, and spark for the 1st time! 😂 Awesome to see this and thanks for sharing with us guys!!!
Its great to see the progression of this build.
I was like this with the Morrvair and now even more so with the wrecker, can’t wait to see it on the trails
Who
Remember last century when you could drop an engine in, hook up 3 wires and it would fire right up. I'm still hooked on the old 400/406/421 small blocks. I only have 2 left, a built 421 ci/500+ hp circle track engine and a complete untouched stock 400. I'm not smart enough nor are my pockets deep enough for these new gen engines. Glad you're sharing the build with us, Thanks
Those thermal cameras have a hard time with shiny surfaces. Hit a spot on each header with some exhaust paint and you will get a more reliable look at what's going on.
Loving the build! Keep it up!
It is all about "emissivity" which varies with the material and the surface. In the mid 80's I worked for RayTek building and calibrating IR temperature measuring systems.
Its a waste really when a laser point heat gun will tell you all you need to know. Though i do love FLIR cameras for finding shorted electrical issues
@Grant Davis I came here to mention emissivity but you beat me to it
@@rickstorm4198 Laser points also have limitations with reflective surfaces. My laser point came with a reflective surface chart based on material if I recall correctly.
@@rickstorm4198true, but if you had a FLiR camera laying around you're NOT gonna use it??
Hey Matt, you need to swap the flow path in the radiators. The rear radiator, which is receiving the hottest air, should also get the hottest coolant. Then pass the once cooled coolant, to the front radiator which is receiving the coolest air.
Its all a game of temperature differentials between coolant and air. And you want to keep that differential as high as possible.
The way you have it plumbed will only end up passing the hottest air through the coldest coolant.
Okay, but wouldn’t the highest temperature differential exist between the hottest coolant and coldest air??
@@buellb0y Sure, that's how a single radiator works too, and that's basically what you'd have in this configuration because the rear radiator won't have enough of a delta (temperature difference, or thermal gradient) to dissipate much heat. If you're feeding 170F air into the rear radiator from the front one, and then you pump 170F coolant through the rear one, you're going to end up with 170F coolant coming out, meaning your rear radiator did absolutely nothing for you. It's not quite that drastic, but when your cooling air and coolant are close together, dissipating heat requires an exponential increase in surface area dependent on the thermal gradient. In layman's terms, that means if your coolant and cooling air are nearly the same for the rear radiator, dissipating the same heat as that front radiator with an ideal delta would require 4x the surface area for the rear radiator. So why bother with two if you're getting virtually all of your cooling from one?
Ideally, a simple baffle separating the two radiators would give even better cooling than having the coolant lines properly routed, since you could give the front radiator ambient air directly from the grill and pass it up and over the rear radiator to the engine bay, while the rear radiator is pulling ambient air from underneath the chassis and pushing it directly into the engine bay. Then it wouldn't matter which radiator gets the coolant first because they're both getting the best delta possible from air at ambient temps. There's enough room between them that it won't affect the volume of airflow going into either. It would be a simple matter of dropping in a flat sheet of aluminum diagonally between the bottom of the front radiator and top of the rear radiator, boxing in the sides between the rear radiator and baffle with two triangular sheets, then securing them all in place. Air leaving the front radiator will be able to go over the baffle and around the sides, while the air going into the rear radiator is coming entirely from the bottom. It doesn't need to seal perfectly, but it wouldn't hurt to minimize gaps either. It would also have the additional benefit of having some airflow in the vicinity of the other coolers located in that area, since it'll be moving air in that vicinity any time the engine is idling, rather than letting it sit and hope the wind is blowing over them. Make everything work to your advantage by having everything work together.
LT is the man!!! He also helped me ,when I was building the top end of my Viper Truck with the 8.3 V10. He is extremely smart,and his wisdom is priceless!! Cheers from Canada!!!
I was just taking to my son about this engine! It seems like a forgotten gem…
@@roninkraut6873 definitely! Cheers!
Lizzie’s weld are some of the best I’ve ever seen. She is a real asset to your company
LT is the man! It's nice to have someone like him in your circle of friends! He seems like a genuinely nice guy!
Matt, I have an 8.1L Suburban and love it! Unsolicited advice: keep an eye on the oil level when you put the wrecker into service. 8.1L are documented oil burners. I go through 1 qt. semi-synthetic every 3K miles of regular driving, 1 qt. every 1K towing, and 1 qt. full synthetic every 1K regular driving and 800 towing. I bought it with 120K miles, have put on 50K, and tested different oils and conditions with same results but my experience may be mine alone.
Lizzie is going to be a master welder one day. It’s cool to see her just tackle anything you set in front of her now without hesitation… She doesn’t even look remotely nervous anymore. Looks excited. Right on!
4:20 that moment when you remember that you have always wanted to install an exhaust extractor in your shop.
Or turn the beast around so the exhaust is facing out the roller door.
@@johnt.848 lol, it seemed an obvious solution ...!
For me, Best Episode Seen To Date! Loved the troubleshooting, calibration, problem solving and especially the editing which showed everyone contributing. Authentic teamwork. Thanks For Showing.
I didn't see Lizzy doing anything... what's up with dat?
@@edbenson98 then who was the blonde welding the exhaust?
@@edbenson98 It appears you weren't paying very close attention to the video.
Trust me as a header builder for decades 2-1/2” tubing will do fine for 500hp! As always it all depends on the engine and what it likes, the engine builder is the one that typically drives the the design and type of header that goes with the application. And trust when I say there is a absolute SCIENCE to that stuff!
Wow what a job this was tuning this 8.1 V8. Tom is a valuable asset to have around for these problems and many more! I love Jamie sitting there with her phone not paying attention to what's going on she's seen so much of it already! Trevor is another good one to have around. This whole team came together and made progress today. I can't wait to see it in action!
Just want to thank you guys. When I started my journey with MORR, the only things I knew about car engines were battery and windshield fluid. After watching your videos, I know what l those parts do. My mechanic no longer sounds like he's speaking Chinese when he's explaining what just broke. Thanjs guys
Can’t wait to see this beast in action
I continue to be amazed at all the work involved in the Big Banana build! The fabrication, the mechanical and engine work, etc. Trevor and Tom Tom are worth their weight in gold! And Lizzy is quickly becoming a senior level fabricator, while it appears the crew behind the scenes doing the filming and editing are par excellence! And then there is 'old' Matt, keeping it all headed in the right direction! I can hardly wait for each new episode!!👍
There's a huge difference between welder and fabricator. She is becoming a very good welder. No doubt about that. Every time you weld it's practice.
I love how you guys work through your problems and show us how you did it, awesome job! 👍
I was watching an episode of “Dirt everyday”, where they had an 80’s something Chevy Army pickup truck with a 6.2 Detroit diesel in it. They brought it into the shop to sort some things out. Fred left it to his mechanics while he showed his viewers how to make a cup holder out of a bean bag! 🤪 He came back to the shop and the truck had been LS swapped!?!? Never watched another episode
Give me the old flat heads. Engine Computers can be a night mare to tune. Just like to have timing and points to set. I guess I am a little old. Great progress and will look forward when it wheels up the mountains on work.
I look forward to these wrecker build videos all week. Trevor, Lizzy, TomTom, Skeeder, and Tucker add happiness to my day. Thanks for the great content.
I am all exited watching you tinker with that engine, used to have a concrete block factory some years ago, and enjoyed designing parts of the plant. Then today I just remembered that back in the late 60's (when I was a kid) my dad loved to tinker in his cars, unfortunately he also yelled at his children while we were helping. I just realized that I have a heart for mechanics, but thought I hated that, it was all dormant in my childhood. Thank you again Matt, you do a lot more than you realize.
It’s good to see you and your crew sticking to it. Brings back memories for work I have done with my dad and by myself later.
The motto i came up with way back when I worked for a certain remodeling company in Medfield Massachusetts was
" We know it's right because we've done it twice!".
We seemed to always have to go back and pull things apart because we were moving to fast and we would always forget things.
Matt I love how you appear to remain so cool & calm when things aren’t going so good.
I really enjoyed this. Remind me of being 16 again with my first project project truck, a 79 F150. Trial and error, new parts, phone a friend and crossed wires.
Matt, take a 9/16" (15 mm) wrench, loosen the distributor, adjust by sound, then retighten distributor.
Oh, wait..... wrong century. Never mind, keep doing what you're doing.
Even in this century, many times you still have to adjust your crank/cam sensors to give signal when you are actually at position. So you are not tuning the system with it, just calibrating the sensor to give TDC reading when you are actually at TDC and you are done with it on the mechanics side.
Hahaha! Love it!
You could go into the fuel table add or take away then add or regard timing kinda same as what you said but newer engine it seems like Matt always has to go through the hard way
Lol I wish that was still the way. I think you mean 14mm by the way
Gap the points with a dime, advance timing until it just starts to 'ping' under load, back-off timing just enough to eliminate ping under load & your done ! ! !
would love to learn more about the mechanical backgrounds and experience of this awesome crew
Great troubleshooting gentlemen. This beast is going to be fun to watch. I bet with A/C on and idling in 110 degree weather you will need all that cooling.
Pulling a tour bus out of the sand...
It's going to overheat under load. Electric fans are for Camry's. NOTE: This engine does not come with electric fans... for a reason. Mechanical fans use 4 hp for a reason. They move more air.
@@TheBandit7613 racing teams use electric fans all the time. Why wouldn't it work in this situation?
@@mrpasciak92 probaly because when race cars are under heavy load it's not that long. Also they have methanol etc to help cool aswell. But I'm not saying you're wrong. Watching race week might makes sense.
@@mrpasciak92 Not enough CFM.
Don't see them on any trucks do ya? Nope.
There's no magic to moving air. All it takes is energy. The stock belt driven fan can be what, 3 to 5 horsepower? There's a reason. Imagine the electrical system it would take to turn two, 2 hp fans. That's a LOT of juice.
Fans are a frequent discussion on our Jeep forums. Matt's Jeeps (and Rory's) are usually running hot all summer. XJ's are at a disadvantage. Stock, they came with a smallish belt driven fan and a med size electric fan. They automatically run hot here. (I live 30 min from Death Valley)
My Jeep can handle any heat on Earth because I had a radiator custom made by a shop in Henderson Nevada. ($$$$) It's huge, takes up the whole front of my Jeep with a custom shroud. YES, the fan robs a lot of power when it's hot but it doesn't ever overheat.
Matt will eventually get it worked out, that I'm sure of.
Cooling systems are my specialty.
Amazing build by amazing crew and team work. Hats off. Problem solving at its best.
Tom Tom is a natural on camera. Always explains the situation and keeps us in the loop.
I agree with no stacks. Also away from the wheels. I'm a Road Ranger and those are always an issue with helping someone stuck on the highway.
“I will do 20 minutes worth of work to avoid 15 minutes worth of work”
That one hit home with me 😂
Truth
I spend a lot of time tryin to save a little time
OR you just finished a 3 hr job. then saw the way where it would have only been 1 hr.
Great video Matt and crew.
Remiinds me when I took my 76 half ton 2 whl drive and made a 4x4 out of it and swapped out the old 350 eng. And installed a 95 LT one. Hung my head in silence many times but was worth it name it bits and pieces that was 25 years ago. Truck still running great not so much for my old body ( lol )be safe and enjoy life.
Tom Tom with the CO humor.
Bare metal is deceiving on an IR camera. The problem is the emissivity is low. The camera is probably expecting 0.95 or so. Bare steel is varies quite a bit based on how polished it is, but the shinier it is the lower the emissivity. In some cases when looking at metal the IR camera can actually pick up reflections of something else.
You can try painting them with header paint to get a consistent value that is closer to what the camera expects.
That camera looked like the one I have, you can adjust them for varying emissivity if you know roughly what it should be.
@@marvindebot3264 Sure, if you know, but even if you polish the metal some level of oxidation will form on it especially once its hot and then what does the emissivity become? A painted surface should be pretty close to 0.9 or 0.95.
It's not uncommon to paint something you are going to look at with an IR camera just to make sure the emissivity is consistent.
It appears they are mainly doing comparative tests, so maybe it isn't critical to make sure the reading is accurate, but I just wanted to point out the common issue when looking at metals with a thermal camera.
Shop days are the best days! I Love seeing all the teamwork and accomplishments on the builds and repairs! Best Crew Ever! 🙌
My first job was in a factory assembling pipe clamps like the one you're using on the exhaust. Assemble thousands of those in a day. Not too much fun.
Once you've had a very stressful, complex job that's always changing, and thousands of people depend on you, a job assembling something starts to sound pretty appealing. Lol
I'm not trying to tell you what to do but while you're working on this vehicle and you're starting and stopping the engine and using the computer and things like that you may want to have a shutdown checklist so you shut down things in a certain order so that someone doesn't inadvertently disconnect the battery while you're still working on the computer so this problem doesn't happen. This way you put one person in charge when you stop the engine for whatever reason then that person can say stop this stop that and then you know what's going on that might be beneficial. I really do enjoy watching you guys work and the fact that you're making things run from what you have that's the important thing as you said you don't have brand new stuff that has everything's perfectly tuned, you got to make it work and that's an art that's being lost these days, just having to figure it out, but also that's the fun part.
probably my most favorite series!
Love Rudy's channel, but miss seeing him on here doing recoveries. The recoveries you do are so great. Love watching this channel, been watching some we joined around 150,000 subscribers
I could watch this kinda stuff all day! Great seeing things coming together on this beast!
Tom Tom is the man. God bless him and his.
Nice, love it when a plan comes together!! and it sounds good too.
I've had that exact issue of the swapped CPS wires. It took me much longer to figure out, I was running an oscilloscope on every sensor and comparing them to the factory waveforms in the service manual and everything. It didn't help that there was such a long time between swapping the engine and trying to start it that I had forgotten I ever even messed with the wires for that sensor. Huge props to your team for figuring that out so quick that's a hard diagnosis 😅
It’s kinda cool seeing you use those long cherry bombs on there. I did two long cherry bombs to a 3” in my Silverado and I was able to make a good cheap exhaust that didn’t have the terrible rasp most chevys have with the more expensive exhaust kits.
Matt I can hardly wait for this to go on the road, I recall an AIRPLANE they rebuilt, just would not start,,the distributor was 180degrees out of synch , when it was noticed, first crank,it STARTED
Stay well, 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Ya "bricked" the computer.. Dropping power during a read/write is total havoc to the PCM. Got lucky they could get it fixed remotely. Can't wait to see this monster on the trails.
I think that is the power of the tech they called in for help as he knew what to do. I think I once bricked a PC a good number of years ago by trying to upgrade the BIOS and it all went sideways but at that time, I think the answer was, you were done for. Now, not certain if you can fix it or not but anyway, I do not bother with the BIOS. I have updated all the drivers however for the motherboard on several occasions successfully.
@@johnhpalmer6098 In the old days, a failed BIOS install could really only be fixed by replacing the BIOS memory (like literally removing and soldering a new one in). Nowadays, they have a redundant chip that they'll reload from, sometimes if you switch a jumper and sometimes just automatically if the BIOS fails to initialize.
@@JGuraan That's true, but most of us likely didn't know that we could just unsolder and replace the chip, let alone thought to do it, at least it never occurred to me in the past. I know more about computers now than I did back in the day.
@@johnhpalmer6098 Yeah, I don't know how easy it ever would have been to get ahold of one of those chips anyway. It'd probably be something you'd have to send the board to the manufacturer for, and who knows if they'd even be willing to do it. For all intents and purposes, prior to the redundant setup, a failed BIOS flash was a bricked mobo.
@@JGuraan That too, however, there are often markings on the top of the chip and a quick Google search these days can reveal the info on it, then you can likely find it's a common type of chip that can be had at places like Mouser and then replace, reflash with the correct BIOS info. Harder to do on older gear that's not been made in years or decades though, unless you can find an archive of older bios' from various manufacturers somewhere.
Mind you it's all conjecture now since as you say, more modern computers have redundancies onboard the motherboards.
Most have heard of Rosy the riveter (WWII workers) but here we get to watch Lizzy the Welder!😁
Hi Matt,
Congratulations to you and the whole team for this awesome build!
Having watched this video I'm still a bit concerned about the "cool" headers.
You changed spark plugs, cables and injectors - a good idea, all three of them!
But still the headers stayed way too cool.
Before considering tuning I'd like to recommend a compression test of all cylinders and if the result is unsuspicious a pressure loss measurement should be done.
Reason: Missing compression or too much loss of pressure on these cylinders would lead to a weak combustion and cool headers.
It would be sad to invest all the effort in the wrecker and leave the engine as it is.
Maybe with the fat pipes you're really needing a bit of back pressure.
Lizzy laid nice looking welds on those "stop-gap" exhaust pipes. My guess is Matt will run them as-is for the next couple of years!
Loving this build👍🇦🇺
I love carburetors!
Hey Matt, are you guys planning on ceramic coating the exhaust since it sits relatively close to that compressed air tank? Compressed air is already gonna be hot and the heat soaking in from the exhaust could diminish the performance of your compressed air system and possibly cause a rupture of the tank.
Heat-shield and a vent would also do the job.
I would coat it and put a heat shield on personally. Something like the OE would use, the hard foil covered plate stuff.
Compressed air isn't hot. Once it is released into the tank, it rapidly cools from expansion. Only the copper tube between the compressor and the tank should be hot. Just like when an air tool gets cold in your hand and starts to sweat, same thing with the air in those tanks. That exhaust isn't going to affect the air.
@@mikeworkman3593 that copper tube do be hot tho. source: experience.
@@Raindrops4891 Oh hell yeah, it'll melt your skin off lol. But as it expands into the tank, it'll cool off until it reaches equilibrium, where as it'll stop the compressor anyways. The small tube gets hot due to the small amount of metal to disperse the thermal energy it stores. This is why many times You'll see custom jobs take a long piece of copper tubing and make a long spiral out of it before it enters the tank, by the time it gets there it'll have kept the tube cool. The compressor heads are normally made with aluminum and have heat fins, so they wont get as warm as that copper. I work for government transit, so I deal with air brakes and suspension on a daily basis(well I normally work on the more complex stuff, like electrical hybris buses and a/c, engine codes, etc. But I've been doing this since I was 16, and I'll be 47 this month) so we have to maintain the air systems. Of course they don't use copper tubing anymore(they used to though), it's all rubber with stainless steel braided coverings. I'd rather have the copper though, it doesn't look at fancy but it lasts forever.
So excited to see this complete.
Always have your v bands assembled when welding to avoid warping
Like Dennis Collins would say " OUTSTANDING ". Oh and this recovery vehicle is the " Holy Grail " of wreckers. Definitely a team effort and the wait is shaping up to be well worth it. This truck is a wrecker man's wrecker. I feel like a kid at Christmas, I can hardly wait until this beast is doing what it is meant to do. And the plethora of winches assure success just about 100% if the time. Matt's will be the place that other wreckers call to have other big wreckers rescued. This truck is definitely on steroids, as you and your team added each winch the trucks muscles grew by a factor of 10. I'm curious as to the trucks alternator amperage. Either way 2 batteries are a minimum and I would guess that you will never be pushing the button on all of the winches at the same time.
Love watching your builds! This thing is going to be sweet!!
Crossover exhaust for 60 on 46s,
Love the build. 2.5 true daul with only cherry bombs is absolutely sufficient flow for 600+HP no need for 3 inch. Unless want that low thunder sound in the cab that gets more annoying then 2.5inch will. Would been nice to see 4-2-1 headers because you made them so you had the chance and would helped with that low end torque
As always, I look forward to these updates and enjoy watching this beast come together. Again, I am so impressed by the skills and knowledge exhibited by every member of the team. I think it would be great to know the background and training of each member to better understand how each got so damn good at what they do. Perhaps one day this could be done. (for a change of pace 😉)
Nah, the skills ended when electronics came to play
Thanks for showing us the phone IR camera mode. I can really use on my old Italian Motorcycle and Car upgrades/rehabs.
It's so damn awesome seeing Lizzy weld. I'm OSHA certified in tig, mig and flux core. It's one of my proudest and biggest accomplishments. The industry needs more women welders. In my opinion women are better at it because we have a steadier hand but also the patience to do it. Having a dad or grandfather to teach you and have faith in you when the majority doesn't is everything. She's very blessed to have you Matt. You should be very proud.
It’s always so beautiful to see you guys work through a problem☺️
I'm on a bucket list vacation and I'm sitting in my hotel room watching Matt's. I may need therapy.
Can't wait for the day the wrecker rolls on it's own power.
Thanks MORR!
Two bucket list goals achieved in one vacation. Not bad
A Custom Built Fury Road BEAST by Matt's Off-Road Recovery! Basically, it's a Rock Crawling Tow Rescue Vehicle like no other. Remember - this thing is going to have 54" tires on it - six inches shy of FIVE FEET!
Where are you on your bucket list vacation The Dave?
@@MrEvanNoyes Better tell NASA !!
@@derekisthematrix New Orleans.
I am really enjoying the Matt's Straps bits, Skeeter and the swing was great.
careful folks, the reply to my comment is a fake account using Matt's logo to scam!
It’s possible that you’ll be better served with the 2 1/2” pipes over 3”, Improved low end torque. Also, maybe consider adding a crossover pipe to stabilize flow and improve the odd fire sound.
I have 3 inch on my 454 sounds so good
@Dave Hancock Excellent observation. Back pressure increases low end torque. Less restrictive 3" pipes allow more top end power at the expense of low end torque. Torque equals pulling power. RPMs equals speed.
@@tomparker9966 that is an old wives tale. the gas velocity through the collector is the only thing that matters, having too large a collector will limit the scavenging effect leading to worse VE and less peak cylinder pressure.
That's not how it works
@@austindoud273 well not on a 2 stroke with an expansion chamber, but if we are talking about a 4 stroke.... yes it bloody well is.
It's like a desk top or game system, if you are saving don't mess with the power... Glad y'all got if figured out ..
I think there could be a Mountain Dew stuck in the fuel injector
Way to work through the assembly & tuning stuff. Brings back memories working on engines before the era of computer controls! Thanks for sharing the video.
notification squad, Have a nice weekend!🔥🔥🔥
👍
You as Well
a bad ground was cause of a lot of head scratching on my last invasive LS swap . I felt ur guys pain !! Good job guys and gr8 content 👍🏼👍🏼
I love V12s, I6s, flat 4s & 6s, but there’s a part of me that says every IC engine should be a poorly silenced V8.
Great video guys. Love your work!!
Yeah for real. I did just buy a 6.0ltr 400hp m120 v12 for a vintage Mercedes restomod project and I can't wait to see what it sounds like with minimal muffling. It's real hard to beat the sound of a V8 at idle or 6000rpm + though. My little 200ish hp 4.5 V8 sounds so good screaming 6500rpm.
I had Cherry Bombs on a 273 V8 and a 283 V8 and they were awesome, low rpm under a load sounded like pure horse power! Very quiet until you stepped on it hard and then it flat turned heads, sweet music! I can't wait to hear them on the monster Thanks for the video.
I agree with Ed the motor sounds amazing when it is idoling. I admire the way you guys work with what you have and get everything figured out. Keep up the great work
Good to hear the engine running. 👍
10:23 I assume you see the spark grounding out on the second cylinder....
good catch!! I see that now right against the header.
I don't think that's the case, looks like it's just a gap through the manifold.
5:12 Cheerwine is DELICIOUS. My favorite soda, kinda hard to find in Indiana but the closer you get to North Carolina where they’ve been based about as long as cokes been around it’s a lot easier to find
Looks like an automotive emergency room there. And the patient was flatlining for a while. Very interesting.
Can't wait to see this thing all finished up and in action! Coming along nicely
woooot wooot woooot wrecker VIDEO
Matt you have an amazing crew. Glad to see the progress in this build.
Matt, you should consider doing a V-bands on the final exhaust. As much as you work on and as much as you remove parts to facilitate maintenance or repairs, a V-band is going to be much appreciated and make your life alot easier on removing the exhaust.
Dont forget to call LT TOLMAN to tune her man, hes right down the street.
The 8.1 2500hd I had was an absolute beast. I did go with bigger injectors and high a high capacity dual fuel pump setup. Later on I did do a "mild" turbo setup. Easy dyno pulls showed 700ish but I never do any hard pulls because the dyno couldnt handle it. The wrecker shouldnt have any problems pulling pretty much anything. Can not wait to see the old girl in action.
Someone needs to throw Dr Tune em All on a redeye flight to CO.
Oh, and Texas Speed need to build this beast a beastly torque monster of an engine.
That was cool
Watching you tune your engine
When the bell sound rang out, it should of cut to Matt and crew walking in Taco Bell
I dunno guys... Looks like fuel map might have a nasty hole in it, better lengthen the injector pulse another millisecond and if need be, adjust the NOS timing.
😁
Rig's coming along nicely, thanks for sharing the progress!
5:06 Legend says Matt is still trying to screw that pop top back onto the glass bottle. 😅🤣😂😅🤣😂.
You have an amazing amount of talent in your shop. Given time you can overcome any issues. Great video Matt
It’s going to be a whole new channel when The Sand Beast makes its debut! Can’t wait! 😍🥰😘
My wife and I have enjoyed all your videos and enjoy you and your crew so much. You are so genuine keep up the great work Matt.
At least Trevor has sense enough to wear ear protection.
And Matt was almost yelling towards the end of the video with the engine off which tells you it was doing damage.
Unsafe working conditions are their shtick.
@@zekeabercrombie3583 Bloody dangerous, IMO.
Yes!!! Wrecker progress!!
When it comes to Matt’s Crew
It’s nice to see Lizzy doing A lot if not Most of the Welding on your Rig. Glad to see a Woman taking on the Roll.
Wow, it's coming along nicely, can't wait to see it out working!
Great video guys, the team work in resolving the problems was amazing.
Lizzy has some great talent!