Great video! I love your style of teaching. Wear your glasses! I've now heard you say a few times that you try to not wear them when filming videos, you look great with glasses! and we are all here for your excellent instruction and we would never even think about them without you bringing them up😎 Thank you for all of the time and effort spent creating these videos, Keep up the great work💪😎👍
Ha ha... not wearing glasses comes from both video work and back when we had two different TV shows. But when it comes to doing highly skilled and also highly risky procedures, it's important to SEE what you're doing. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Yeah, went through a rough time with bad people. Happy to be a part of a team that appreciates people who work hard and keep their word. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@ I hear you. I’m glad that you made that decision for yourself because you deserve it. Your hard work and dedication doesn’t go unappreciated by your viewers. I have learned so much from you. Looking forward to being even more educated by you.👍I’m just not familiar with these products but I know I will be.😉
It's a simple technique that keeps you safe or keeps you from having to apply touch-up paint to edges and raised body lines. Or worse, repainting an entire panel. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Probably never. LOL I have done the MOST Roadshow Car Detailing Classes and documented them more than anyone in our industry. And here's what I've learned from travelling and teaching. It's a LOSING BUSINESS MODEL. The reason why? Not enough people sign-up for the class. The work required behind the scenes to fill the class is enormous for the return. So, I simply don't see a profitable way to travel around the country, shipping around 1000 pounds of tools and detailing supplies, including extension cords, (you cannot count on your host to have all 12-gauge extension cords). So, my guess is I'm never coming to New York. Apologies. Instead, all the tools you get to use and all the COOL CARS you get to train on are right in here in Stuart, Florida. So instead of me packing up everything it takes to hold a REAL hands-on detailing class, our business model is, if it's worth it to you, then travel to Stuart, Florida. You'll not only learn a lot, but you'll also have a lot of fun. *Class Schedule* www.drbeasleys.com/clinics Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Probably never. LOL I have done the MOST Roadshow Car Detailing Classes and documented them more than anyone in our industry. And here's what I've learned from travelling and teaching. It's a LOSING BUSINESS MODEL. The reason why? Not enough people sign-up for the class. The work required behind the scenes to fill the class is enormous for the return. So, I simply don't see a profitable way to travel around the country, shipping around 1000 pounds of tools and detailing supplies, including extension cords, (you cannot count on your host to have all 12-gauge extension cords). So my guess is I'm never coming to New York. Apologies. Instead, all the tools you get to use and all the COOL CARS you get to train on are right in here in Stuart, Florida. So instead of me packing up everything it takes to hold a REAL hands-on detailing class, our business model is, if it's worth it to you, then travel to Stuart, Florida. You'll not only learn a lot, but you'll also have a lot of fun. Class Schedule www.drbeasleys.com/clinics Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Hi, I just wet sanded a black vehicle today as well! However I noticed that I introduced finer scratches which I can't seem to remove! I sanded with 2000 grit followed by 3000 grit followed by da polisher with short microfiber pad. i did 4 passes 2 times!
The trick is with each grit of paper you go up in to double the amount of passes to ensure you remove the previous grit scratch. If you do 15 passes with 2,000 do 30 passes with 3,000. Seems to me you didnt remove the 2000 grit scratch
Following 2000 grit with 3000 grit can be done, this is a pretty large jump for a newbie. The key is to completely replace the 2000 grit sanding marks with 3000 grit sanding marks and this takes both practice and extreme focus on the task at hand. Don't feel bad if you didn't do this, most people can't. Also, get a rotary polisher and a wool pad to remove the sanding marks, it's not only FASTER - but a wool pad also spinning on a rotary polisher is much more effective at removing 100% of the sanding marks as compared to ANY brand or type of orbital polisher. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Sounds like you should've started w 1000 grit to ensure a uniform surface. The microscratches you're seeing are the deeper scratches from before that were never fully flattened out
Gentleman please please .. when you are showing us something and teaching us zoom in so we can see, the camera is way way to far!! Thank you for all you do 🙏
Will try harder to do a better job. I agree, when "showing" stuff, it helps for the camera person to move in or zoom in and capture the results so the audience can see what we're seeing. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I've seen other videos from Dr. Beasley's Chris Racana that say you shouldn't prime your pad. Just getting contradiction information about the use of NSPs For example: th-cam.com/video/LHyWpNgSLdM/w-d-xo.html
Technically you don't need to prime a FOAM pad as continuing to use the same pad you'll be priming the pad by using it. With microfiber pads, the detailing world consensus, lead by RUPES is that you should/must prime MICROFIBER pads to ensure each fiber is coated with abrasive technology BEFORE using the pad to remove defects. And with rotary polishers, I never prime them, but some people do. In fact, when I worked for Meguiar's in Irvine, California, we taught priming foam pads on rotary polishers with M34 Final Inspection. That was the official Meguiar's recommendation, but I never did this as a practice for the last 40+ years. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
This is what I was thinking. BUT - I wouldn't know until I bought some and tried them out. For now I'll stick with Eagle Abrasives by KOVACS, 3M Trizact, Nikken Finishing Papers and Mirka Abralon for boats. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@rongamble9884 - Agree. The 3000 and 4000 grit 6" sanding discs are basically copies of Mirka Abralon sanding discs. Good for removing deep oxidation on boats, leveling aluminum and leveling deeper defects in car paint - but not the best for levelling orange peel due to the foam backing behind the face of the sanding disc. -Mike
Great video! I love your style of teaching. Wear your glasses! I've now heard you say a few times that you try to not wear them when filming videos, you look great with glasses! and we are all here for your excellent instruction and we would never even think about them without you bringing them up😎 Thank you for all of the time and effort spent creating these videos, Keep up the great work💪😎👍
Ha ha... not wearing glasses comes from both video work and back when we had two different TV shows. But when it comes to doing highly skilled and also highly risky procedures, it's important to SEE what you're doing.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Wow, I’ve been wondering where you were. Glad I found you Mike!!!!! ❤
Yeah, went through a rough time with bad people. Happy to be a part of a team that appreciates people who work hard and keep their word.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@ I hear you. I’m glad that you made that decision for yourself because you deserve it. Your hard work and dedication doesn’t go unappreciated by your viewers. I have learned so much from you. Looking forward to being even more educated by you.👍I’m just not familiar with these products but I know I will be.😉
The rule of thumb 👍 I like it!
It's a simple technique that keeps you safe or keeps you from having to apply touch-up paint to edges and raised body lines. Or worse, repainting an entire panel.
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
When are you comming to LI NY? :)
Probably never. LOL
I have done the MOST Roadshow Car Detailing Classes and documented them more than anyone in our industry. And here's what I've learned from travelling and teaching. It's a LOSING BUSINESS MODEL. The reason why? Not enough people sign-up for the class.
The work required behind the scenes to fill the class is enormous for the return. So, I simply don't see a profitable way to travel around the country, shipping around 1000 pounds of tools and detailing supplies, including extension cords, (you cannot count on your host to have all 12-gauge extension cords).
So, my guess is I'm never coming to New York. Apologies. Instead, all the tools you get to use and all the COOL CARS you get to train on are right in here in Stuart, Florida. So instead of me packing up everything it takes to hold a REAL hands-on detailing class, our business model is, if it's worth it to you, then travel to Stuart, Florida. You'll not only learn a lot, but you'll also have a lot of fun.
*Class Schedule*
www.drbeasleys.com/clinics
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Probably never. LOL
I have done the MOST Roadshow Car Detailing Classes and documented them more than anyone in our industry. And here's what I've learned from travelling and teaching. It's a LOSING BUSINESS MODEL. The reason why? Not enough people sign-up for the class.
The work required behind the scenes to fill the class is enormous for the return. So, I simply don't see a profitable way to travel around the country, shipping around 1000 pounds of tools and detailing supplies, including extension cords, (you cannot count on your host to have all 12-gauge extension cords).
So my guess is I'm never coming to New York. Apologies. Instead, all the tools you get to use and all the COOL CARS you get to train on are right in here in Stuart, Florida. So instead of me packing up everything it takes to hold a REAL hands-on detailing class, our business model is, if it's worth it to you, then travel to Stuart, Florida. You'll not only learn a lot, but you'll also have a lot of fun.
Class Schedule
www.drbeasleys.com/clinics
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Hi, I just wet sanded a black vehicle today as well! However I noticed that I introduced finer scratches which I can't seem to remove! I sanded with 2000 grit followed by 3000 grit followed by da polisher with short microfiber pad. i did 4 passes 2 times!
The trick is with each grit of paper you go up in to double the amount of passes to ensure you remove the previous grit scratch. If you do 15 passes with 2,000 do 30 passes with 3,000. Seems to me you didnt remove the 2000 grit scratch
Following 2000 grit with 3000 grit can be done, this is a pretty large jump for a newbie. The key is to completely replace the 2000 grit sanding marks with 3000 grit sanding marks and this takes both practice and extreme focus on the task at hand. Don't feel bad if you didn't do this, most people can't.
Also, get a rotary polisher and a wool pad to remove the sanding marks, it's not only FASTER - but a wool pad also spinning on a rotary polisher is much more effective at removing 100% of the sanding marks as compared to ANY brand or type of orbital polisher.
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Sounds like you should've started w 1000 grit to ensure a uniform surface. The microscratches you're seeing are the deeper scratches from before that were never fully flattened out
Gentleman please please .. when you are showing us something and teaching us zoom in so we can see, the camera is way way to far!!
Thank you for all you do 🙏
Will try harder to do a better job. I agree, when "showing" stuff, it helps for the camera person to move in or zoom in and capture the results so the audience can see what we're seeing.
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I've seen other videos from Dr. Beasley's Chris Racana that say you shouldn't prime your pad. Just getting contradiction information about the use of NSPs For example: th-cam.com/video/LHyWpNgSLdM/w-d-xo.html
Technically you don't need to prime a FOAM pad as continuing to use the same pad you'll be priming the pad by using it. With microfiber pads, the detailing world consensus, lead by RUPES is that you should/must prime MICROFIBER pads to ensure each fiber is coated with abrasive technology BEFORE using the pad to remove defects. And with rotary polishers, I never prime them, but some people do. In fact, when I worked for Meguiar's in Irvine, California, we taught priming foam pads on rotary polishers with M34 Final Inspection. That was the official Meguiar's recommendation, but I never did this as a practice for the last 40+ years.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Those hercules 6 inch 1,500 disc's are junk they don't cut for crap
This is what I was thinking. BUT - I wouldn't know until I bought some and tried them out. For now I'll stick with Eagle Abrasives by KOVACS, 3M Trizact, Nikken Finishing Papers and Mirka Abralon for boats.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing ya way better off with those I have however used the hercules 3,000 & 4,000 disc's and they are satisfactory
@@rongamble9884 - Agree. The 3000 and 4000 grit 6" sanding discs are basically copies of Mirka Abralon sanding discs. Good for removing deep oxidation on boats, leveling aluminum and leveling deeper defects in car paint - but not the best for levelling orange peel due to the foam backing behind the face of the sanding disc.
-Mike
First!!!!
First forever 😇😊😊