@Nate Goodwin, I have the exact problem right now with my 1991 4x4 4Runner 3.0. Your video helped to confirm that I have a non working fuel pump based either on a bad Circuit Opening Relay which is also located on the right kick panel under the glove compartment by the ECU. My problem is either the relay or the MAF sensor. What I did was to disconnect the wire connector at the MAF & I also removed the cover of the Open Circuit Relay to have physical access to press in the 2 side brass tabs to activate the fuel pump. I used a paper clip as a jumper wire and connected each end to the first 2 female terminals on the MAF connector. It has 7 or 8 female terminals so as you know it's a wide connector. To make it clear to any other readers, the 2 female terminals that I bypassed with a paper clip are the ones closest to the front as opposed to the terminals on the terminals going towards the rear. I left the paper clip in the MAF ferminals and then I pressed in the two brass prongs on the Circuit Opening Relay and WHALLA!!! My fuel pump turned on. On a good relay, both prongs on the relay are activated as the ignition key is turned on the ON position or is cranked to start the engine which activates the fuel pump and as the MAF door opens up to allow in the right amount of air for air & fuel mixture...one prong on the relay deactivates leaving the second prong activated while the car is running which keeps the fuel pump running. Obviously I'm not an expert at explaining this process but it's pretty much similar to what you explained. I previously did other testings also. I bypassed the fuel pump at the self diagnostics little black box by bypassing connecting a paper clip on the GRD & FP terminals; fuel pump didn't turn on. I bypassed the fuel pump relay or EFI relay nothing. I cut an access door to the fuel pump under the rear passenger seat to activate the fuel pump only to find out that the fuel pump did work but I replaced anyways since it was so corroded and the sock filter was melted. I tested the wires on the fuel pump and they did have power. There's a few other things that could be bad but mostly you covered it in your video. Again, thanks for your video, you confirmed that I was on the right track. We have plenty of junkyards here in southern California so I'll just get 2 relays. Worst case scenario I'll buy the MAF at the junkyard with warranty in case that the problem was not the relay. But simply bypassing the MAF at the 2 female terminals at the connector will tell me if the problem is the relay or the MAF sensor. Oh and another possible problem on the MAF that you didn't cover is the mechanical function on the inside of the MAF which is inside the black cap that is shaped like the heel of men's boots. The metal prongs tend to warp and no longer have contact to activate the fuel pump. This problem is discovered by bypassing the MAF terminals on the wire connector as I explained earlier how to bypass. I think fixing this problem is usually bending the metal prongs back into place, sometimes the welding that holds them in place get broken off, other times its simply corrosion or contamination in the prongs which causes a loss of direct contact. There are several videos on this including on 90s mazdas. My 1991 Miata has the same air box with a MAF sensor just like the 90s Toyotas. I guess this system was popular in all 90s vehicles. Wow did I make this long enough?
@Nate Goodwin. Problem solved on my 1991 4Runner. Finally I went to the junkyard and bought the MAF sensor & 2 Circuit Opening Relays. I installed the MAF & one relay & I cranked the engine 3 times for several seconds & on the 3rd time the engine turned on slightly sluggish but then kicked in like a champ on viagra. The reason I also replaced the Circuit Opening Relay is because the antenna on the fender is loose and water has been able to drip down the hole which leads almost directly down to where the Circuit Opening Relay is located. Cheers from southern California.
Well, this is a follow up. The Airflow Meter (as it's called per the Haynes Manual) that I got from the junkyard only lasted 6 months. I actually bought a remanufactured one from NAPA Auto Parts by the brand Cardone. I was concerned since the serial number was different than mines. Once replaced, it actually took several long frustrating attempts to start up the engine but it eventually did & I haven't had any fuel pump problems related to the Airflow Meter. The new problem related to the fuel pump circuitry is now blown EFI fuses. At first it was intermittent problems. I would replace the blown EFI fuse every several days till yesterday on New Years, out of all days, my brother got stranded at work because it now kept on blowing the EFI fuse every time he tried driving off, but not while starting the engine. So the problem has gotten worse. Eventually it may not even turn on at all. All my research indicates that the culprit of blown EFI fuses is usually an oxygen sensor wire that rubs up against the exhaust manifold, which melts the wire insulation & now grounds the wire. I swear, to be an owner of these old 4runners you really gotta have some patience. I will update you & your fans once I figure out the problem.
On a race car, we would just put a switch in there. This Opening Relay Circuit is an accident cut off switch. It must be a real shaky relay. A hard knock or blow out can make it go/ A good one resets itself. A bad one and you are out of gas. All out of gas or partly out. It's called the opening relay circuit. It cuts off the fuel in an accident. I don't know how it works. It just shits the bed. And a good one makes the bed again. LOL This fix may well set you up for a fuel fire. The switch on the dash like a racecar can be shut off if you are able to do it. If you are in an accident, just shut off the key.
I hit like button, but keep in mind, that 2 coil relay is for safety. If truck rolls over or something, fuel pump will shut off via the AFM(air flow meter)..as I understand it. The way you wired it, you put yourself and others in danger in other words. I would like to see someone wire in two cheap relays to see if that's possible to keep safety feature. Unfortunately my COR has one coil not functioning(break in wire I assume). I'm painstakingly unwinding it to see if the break is not too far in and I can re-attach copper wire. I don't know if it will function being 50 turns or so shorter!
I’ve been wrenching on cars since i was old enough to hold a wrench, but i’m in virgin territory working on a ‘94 Toyota 3.0L pickup. Sudden loss of fuel supply (truck will fire over with any combustible aerosol sprayed into intake) and working through the extensive power supply circuit is exhausting. Thanks for the detailed explanation on how that part of the circuit works, and how you bypassed the expensive relay (jobber cost is $173 here in Canada).
Check your fuel pressure... I got burned on a customer rig, thought it had a bad fuel pump after I checked pressure at the cold start injector... Replaced the pump and still had no fuel pressure at the cold start injector... Checked fuel pressure on at the pump and it was over 100psi because the fuel pressure damper was plugged causing the pump to dead head
How is this holding up after a year? Have you had any problems out of the newly wired in relay, and would you happen to have a diagram of which terminals on the relay goes to the factory colored wires?
Ty for your video. I jumped Wh & R and blue pump ran, I tested the relay by powering + Wh & R, and - Wh & B I got 13.2 v at each of the 3 prongs and felt the activation of the coil. with relay attached pump dose not run. it dose turn over but dose not start either wires jumped or relay in place. So dose this mean it must be the ignition and or the wires going to the relay from it?
Had an on going fuel problem with an 88 Toyota Landcruiser. Looked into this relay, and related wiring. But everything checked out, struggled for months. Turned out to be a bad, rotted out wire near the fuel pump at the frame.
A trick I learned was that a running car with a wiring trouble/ electrical loss has dim lights. Do this at night.. By going down the list of fuses, pulling them one by one, it's easy to see when the lights get bright again. The fuse you just pulled was the problem. Now the lights are bright. So if its a taillight fuse. look there.. With an assistant, you can wiggle the wiring harness while looking at the lights. If you are alone, try to hang a 12 volt buzzer on the accessory you are troubleshooting when you wiggle the wires at the right place, the 12 volt buzzer goes off.
On a race car, we would just put a switch in there. This Opening Relay Circuit is an accident cut off switch. It must be a real shaky relay. A hard knock or blow out can make it go/ A good one resets itself. A bad one and you are out of gas. All out of gas or partly out. It's called the opening relay circuit. It cuts off the fuel in an accident. I don't know how it works. It just shits the bed. And a good one makes the bed again. LOL This fix may well set you up for a fuel fire. The switch on the dash like a racecar can be shut off if you are able to do it. If you are in an accident, just shut off the key.
Could this mimic a bad cold air injector? My Yoda has trouble with cold starts below 50 degrees...And I have been putting off changing the cold start injector. Thanks for a great vid.
Hi Nate can you please draw out a wire connection relay - ( Diagram ) Please .. this will be alot better to show and explain.. I would prefer to see it and map your wire connections better... great Video.. Thanks Nate
After some research am I correct in assuming you wired the relay differently than factory? 30: white & red wire 85: white & black wire 86: black & white wire 87a: green & yellow wire 87: blue That’s the wiring schematic that I’ve concluded.
I think you are looking for a Opening Relay circuit. It is actually a Toyota safety cut off switch for the fuel in case of an accident or hard bump. A blow out tire can even set it to an OPEN position. It gives an open in the fuel circuit in an accident. it's show on 12-25 of the Haynes Manual. That is the schematic for my 3.4
Which terminal on the relay does the green and yellow ground from the air meter connect to? And which two terminals are connected to the key on power wire?
I say no. But the Opening Relay Circuit makes an open circuit after an accident or even a hard bump or blow out. I asked but they said no. It seems to only be connected to the fuel pump. It's the fuel cut off switch. It's called The Opening Relay Circuit. It cuts off the fuel in case of an accident. A good one resets itself. A bad one doesnt. And you have little or NO GAS. It's Toyotas Fuel Cut off Relay. A crazy relay that shits the bed if it don't like something. Just put a Switch there like a racecar? Is it the Gost in the Machine? Crazy Jittery Relay?
I have 4 workshop manuals and i have to cross reference everything i do on my Toyota hilux Australian version 5vzfe can you tell me what model relay to use ? My brain is fried from this car no fuel no spark but also i can't find the fuel pump relay. It says under fash but everything on this Toyota is different to every manual i came across 😊any reply appreciated
Little late but fyi, the fuel pump relay is by the driver kick panel under the fuses/fusebox, this COR relay in this vid is behind the speaker on the passenger side just above the ECU behind the kick panel, it's bolted on there with a 10 mm bolt, js
@@reignman0311 thanks. It ended up being the ECU. It had been leaking coolant and I fixed that.but the drainage on the Aircon was leaking ever so little in the car because it's not a 90 degree bend on the firewall. When I parked in summer any water on the carpet would evaporate and get into the ECU. I couldn't believe it. But a second hand unit fixed it perfectly. Cheers and thanks.
Hey everyone 93 toyota 4 runner fuel problems...I cut an access panel in the floor under the seat above the fuel pump....hooked a hot wire to the fuel pump from bat +...put a toggle switch in line....I got my 3.0 4 runner running...now I can look around for the 130 dollar fuel cut out relay...and after determining the vehicle will run I can spend time and money so I can have a 4×4 for Wisconsin winter coming up.
@@richardsmith1289 Just get 2 or Circuit opening relays from the junk yard. You can get them from a Toyota corolla from similar year models. I think the corollas have them in the front of the center console right underneath the dash behind the radio, AC/Heater dials.
what were your symptoms before replacing the curciut opening relay? my car would just die after long drives (40 minutes or so) and then car would restart after a few minutes.......
@yat cho. I used to have that exact problem but on my 1989 Mustang GT 5.0. The problem was actually my starter, believe it or not. The solenoid on the starter was bad simply from being old and wear. It would start quick when the engine was cold. If I drove more than 30 minutes in 80 degree heat, here in California, I would park the car at a store or anywhere and when I got back in the car to go home or somewhere else, the car would crank slow & would then get stuck making only the clicking noise. The old solenoid would get stuck from the intense heat. Once the engine & starter cooled off for about 2 hours the starter would crank over. I went through this problem for about 9 months testing fuel & spark related problems when in fact it was nothing related to fuel or spark. So your problem may be a solenoid on the starter that is going bad and is getting stuck. Drive your vehicle for those 40 minutes, return home and turn off the engine. Then try to turn it on right away. If it doesn't crank, hit the starter with a metal object like a pipe or wrench. This may break loose the solenoid that gets stuck & it should start the engine again...but that's only if your problem is a starter problem. Or simply put a strong fan to cool down the starter to get the solenoid unstuck. You may have oil that drips down to the starter contacts while you're driving. Once you park the vehicle most oil drips off onto the floor and there may now be contact between the wires and the starter contacts. Another problem I had with my 4runner was a rusty distributor at the rotor, the one that looks like a sprocket. I lightly sanded the sprocket points and the 2 magnets and now I had contact between those areas. The 4runner started right up. Of course first I checked for spark between the spark plug and the spark plug wire, there was no spark. Then I removed the distributor cap and inspected it for cracks or spark build up at the contact points and they were ok.. Then I inspected the 2 magnets & the sprocket points & I noticed the whole wheel was rusty and dirty. I knew right away that this was my problem. I lightly sanded the 2 magnets & the point contacts on the sprocket wheel, I put it back together and the vehicle started with no problem. Problem solved. After these past 8 months that you posted, I hope you found your problem. If not, maybe my experience may help find your problem.
@@johnnyjohn8073 Correct with these Toyota when they die and wont start till it cools off, many ppl think it's the fuel pump, the problem is really with the igniter in the distributor, I drove myself crazy buying new coil etc and finally when it died at home I put a multimeter to the wires going to dist and there was nothing, later I tested again when cold, the multimeter read and walla it started, The fix: I put in another distributor becuz the igniters inside are hard to find and havent had the problem since.. '
This is a Toyota fuel cut off switch. In an accident or bump or blown out tire. You can lose the power to the fuel pump.. Why not put a switch in like on a race car. Before you start it, turn on the fuel. Toys are very reliable. But this crazy relay that is shaky and has a case of the jitters is freaky.. If it's good, It resets itself. If it's old and worn out, it's a mind fuck. It's called the Opening Relay Circuit. If it gets old or thinks it's had an accident. No gas or little gas. It's connected to the EFI /injectors. Can it OPEN/break that circuit too? Weird crazy relay. It's like the ghost in the machine. Disconnect from EFI and put a switch in? Put the switch out of sight. Only you know where for anti theft protection.
@Nate Goodwin, I have the exact problem right now with my 1991 4x4 4Runner 3.0. Your video helped to confirm that I have a non working fuel pump based either on a bad Circuit Opening Relay which is also located on the right kick panel under the glove compartment by the ECU. My problem is either the relay or the MAF sensor. What I did was to disconnect the wire connector at the MAF & I also removed the cover of the Open Circuit Relay to have physical access to press in the 2 side brass tabs to activate the fuel pump. I used a paper clip as a jumper wire and connected each end to the first 2 female terminals on the MAF connector. It has 7 or 8 female terminals so as you know it's a wide connector. To make it clear to any other readers, the 2 female terminals that I bypassed with a paper clip are the ones closest to the front as opposed to the terminals on the terminals going towards the rear. I left the paper clip in the MAF ferminals and then I pressed in the two brass prongs on the Circuit Opening Relay and WHALLA!!! My fuel pump turned on. On a good relay, both prongs on the relay are activated as the ignition key is turned on the ON position or is cranked to start the engine which activates the fuel pump and as the MAF door opens up to allow in the right amount of air for air & fuel mixture...one prong on the relay deactivates leaving the second prong activated while the car is running which keeps the fuel pump running. Obviously I'm not an expert at explaining this process but it's pretty much similar to what you explained. I previously did other testings also. I bypassed the fuel pump at the self diagnostics little black box by bypassing connecting a paper clip on the GRD & FP terminals; fuel pump didn't turn on. I bypassed the fuel pump relay or EFI relay nothing. I cut an access door to the fuel pump under the rear passenger seat to activate the fuel pump only to find out that the fuel pump did work but I replaced anyways since it was so corroded and the sock filter was melted. I tested the wires on the fuel pump and they did have power. There's a few other things that could be bad but mostly you covered it in your video. Again, thanks for your video, you confirmed that I was on the right track. We have plenty of junkyards here in southern California so I'll just get 2 relays. Worst case scenario I'll buy the MAF at the junkyard with warranty in case that the problem was not the relay. But simply bypassing the MAF at the 2 female terminals at the connector will tell me if the problem is the relay or the MAF sensor. Oh and another possible problem on the MAF that you didn't cover is the mechanical function on the inside of the MAF which is inside the black cap that is shaped like the heel of men's boots. The metal prongs tend to warp and no longer have contact to activate the fuel pump. This problem is discovered by bypassing the MAF terminals on the wire connector as I explained earlier how to bypass. I think fixing this problem is usually bending the metal prongs back into place, sometimes the welding that holds them in place get broken off, other times its simply corrosion or contamination in the prongs which causes a loss of direct contact. There are several videos on this including on 90s mazdas. My 1991 Miata has the same air box with a MAF sensor just like the 90s Toyotas. I guess this system was popular in all 90s vehicles. Wow did I make this long enough?
@Nate Goodwin. Problem solved on my 1991 4Runner. Finally I went to the junkyard and bought the MAF sensor & 2 Circuit Opening Relays. I installed the MAF & one relay & I cranked the engine 3 times for several seconds & on the 3rd time the engine turned on slightly sluggish but then kicked in like a champ on viagra. The reason I also replaced the Circuit Opening Relay is because the antenna on the fender is loose and water has been able to drip down the hole which leads almost directly down to where the Circuit Opening Relay is located. Cheers from southern California.
Well, this is a follow up. The Airflow Meter (as it's called per the Haynes Manual) that I got from the junkyard only lasted 6 months. I actually bought a remanufactured one from NAPA Auto Parts by the brand Cardone. I was concerned since the serial number was different than mines. Once replaced, it actually took several long frustrating attempts to start up the engine but it eventually did & I haven't had any fuel pump problems related to the Airflow Meter. The new problem related to the fuel pump circuitry is now blown EFI fuses. At first it was intermittent problems. I would replace the blown EFI fuse every several days till yesterday on New Years, out of all days, my brother got stranded at work because it now kept on blowing the EFI fuse every time he tried driving off, but not while starting the engine. So the problem has gotten worse. Eventually it may not even turn on at all. All my research indicates that the culprit of blown EFI fuses is usually an oxygen sensor wire that rubs up against the exhaust manifold, which melts the wire insulation & now grounds the wire. I swear, to be an owner of these old 4runners you really gotta have some patience. I will update you & your fans once I figure out the problem.
@@johnnyjohn8073how’s it going so far?
On a race car, we would just put a switch in there. This Opening Relay Circuit is an accident cut off switch. It must be a real shaky relay. A hard knock or blow out can make it go/ A good one resets itself. A bad one and you are out of gas. All out of gas or partly out. It's called the opening relay circuit. It cuts off the fuel in an accident. I don't know how it works. It just shits the bed. And a good one makes the bed again. LOL This fix may well set you up for a fuel fire.
The switch on the dash like a racecar can be shut off if you are able to do it.
If you are in an accident, just shut off the key.
Here is wiring of 5 pin relay according to his video:
30: blue wire
87 and 85: joined together to the white/red
86: green/yellow
87a: black/white
I hit like button, but keep in mind, that 2 coil relay is for safety. If truck rolls over or something, fuel pump will shut off via the AFM(air flow meter)..as I understand it. The way you wired it, you put yourself and others in danger in other words. I would like to see someone wire in two cheap relays to see if that's possible to keep safety feature. Unfortunately my COR has one coil not functioning(break in wire I assume). I'm painstakingly unwinding it to see if the break is not too far in and I can re-attach copper wire. I don't know if it will function being 50 turns or so shorter!
I’ve been wrenching on cars since i was old enough to hold a wrench, but i’m in virgin territory working on a ‘94 Toyota 3.0L pickup. Sudden loss of fuel supply (truck will fire over with any combustible aerosol sprayed into intake) and working through the extensive power supply circuit is exhausting. Thanks for the detailed explanation on how that part of the circuit works, and how you bypassed the expensive relay (jobber cost is $173 here in Canada).
Check your fuel pressure... I got burned on a customer rig, thought it had a bad fuel pump after I checked pressure at the cold start injector... Replaced the pump and still had no fuel pressure at the cold start injector... Checked fuel pressure on at the pump and it was over 100psi because the fuel pressure damper was plugged causing the pump to dead head
Thanks bro for info..very good idea & very cheap using 5pin relay for circuit opening fuel pump...thanks very much
How is this holding up after a year? Have you had any problems out of the newly wired in relay, and would you happen to have a diagram of which terminals on the relay goes to the factory colored wires?
Ty for your video. I jumped Wh & R and blue pump ran, I tested the relay by powering + Wh & R, and - Wh & B I got 13.2 v at each of the 3 prongs and felt the activation of the coil. with relay attached pump dose not run. it dose turn over but dose not start either wires jumped or relay in place. So dose this mean it must be the ignition and or the wires going to the relay from it?
Had an on going fuel problem with an 88 Toyota Landcruiser. Looked into this relay, and related wiring. But everything checked out, struggled for months. Turned out to be a bad, rotted out wire near the fuel pump at the frame.
A trick I learned was that a running car with a wiring trouble/ electrical loss has dim lights. Do this at night.. By going down the list of fuses, pulling them one by one, it's easy to see when the lights get bright again. The fuse you just pulled was the problem. Now the lights are bright. So if its a taillight fuse. look there.. With an assistant, you can wiggle the wiring harness while looking at the lights. If you are alone, try to hang a 12 volt buzzer on the accessory you are troubleshooting when you wiggle the wires at the right place, the 12 volt buzzer goes off.
On a race car, we would just put a switch in there. This Opening Relay Circuit is an accident cut off switch. It must be a real shaky relay. A hard knock or blow out can make it go/ A good one resets itself. A bad one and you are out of gas. All out of gas or partly out. It's called the opening relay circuit. It cuts off the fuel in an accident. I don't know how it works. It just shits the bed. And a good one makes the bed again. LOL This fix may well set you up for a fuel fire.
The switch on the dash like a racecar can be shut off if you are able to do it.
If you are in an accident, just shut off the key.
Could this mimic a bad cold air injector? My Yoda has trouble with cold starts below 50 degrees...And I have been putting off changing the cold start injector. Thanks for a great vid.
Hi Nate can you please draw out a wire connection relay - ( Diagram ) Please .. this will be alot better to show and explain.. I would prefer to see it and map your wire connections better... great Video.. Thanks Nate
After some research am I correct in assuming you wired the relay differently than factory?
30: white & red wire
85: white & black wire
86: black & white wire
87a: green & yellow wire
87: blue
That’s the wiring schematic that I’ve concluded.
This is fantastic, but could you please include the part number for the replacement relay and perhaps a quick schematic?
I think you are looking for a Opening Relay circuit. It is actually a Toyota safety cut off switch for the fuel in case of an accident or hard bump. A blow out tire can even set it to an OPEN position. It gives an open in the fuel circuit in an accident. it's show on 12-25 of the Haynes Manual. That is the schematic for my 3.4
Good job Nate
Any chance you know about that 'one click no start'
Want to just mod it
One click no start sounds like starter issue.
What is this relay?? Where can I take?? Thanks. Nice video very good explication
Thank you.. mine was full of water ..
Hey nate, great idea here. About halfway through the procedure, but have a question. Any chance you could answer a question or two?
Definitely what's up
Which terminal on the relay does the green and yellow ground from the air meter connect to? And which two terminals are connected to the key on power wire?
HarryBungholio did Nate ever respond to your question?
@@nategoodwin375 Wow that asinine you reply and he asked you a question and you blow him off!
Sorry forgot, I pulled the return fuel line and it's pumping about a cup of fuel in about 8 sec. dose this relay activate the igniter and coil to?
I say no. But the Opening Relay Circuit makes an open circuit after an accident or even a hard bump or blow out. I asked but they said no. It seems to only be connected to the fuel pump. It's the fuel cut off switch. It's called The Opening Relay Circuit. It cuts off the fuel in case of an accident. A good one resets itself. A bad one doesnt. And you have little or NO GAS. It's Toyotas Fuel Cut off Relay. A crazy relay that shits the bed if it don't like something.
Just put a Switch there like a racecar? Is it the Gost in the Machine? Crazy Jittery Relay?
excellent fix❗
I have 4 workshop manuals and i have to cross reference everything i do on my Toyota hilux Australian version 5vzfe can you tell me what model relay to use ? My brain is fried from this car no fuel no spark but also i can't find the fuel pump relay. It says under fash but everything on this Toyota is different to every manual i came across 😊any reply appreciated
Little late but fyi, the fuel pump relay is by the driver kick panel under the fuses/fusebox, this COR relay in this vid is behind the speaker on the passenger side just above the ECU behind the kick panel, it's bolted on there with a 10 mm bolt, js
@@reignman0311 thanks. It ended up being the ECU. It had been leaking coolant and I fixed that.but the drainage on the Aircon was leaking ever so little in the car because it's not a 90 degree bend on the firewall. When I parked in summer any water on the carpet would evaporate and get into the ECU. I couldn't believe it. But a second hand unit fixed it perfectly. Cheers and thanks.
I can't seem to pull mines out. Is there certain notches I need to push down to slide out the relay?
There is a little tab on one side , you have to hold in? Then work it loose. Practice on one you can see good and reach easily.
Hi just wondering how your modification worked? Did it last ? You are correct 130 dollars is stupid expensive...thanks
It's not lasting :(
@@nategoodwin375 must have something to do with the capacitor in the oem part.
@@richardsmith1289 I think it would work fine if it was a higher quality relay... These are Amazon cheapys
Hey everyone 93 toyota 4 runner fuel problems...I cut an access panel in the floor under the seat above the fuel pump....hooked a hot wire to the fuel pump from bat +...put a toggle switch in line....I got my 3.0 4 runner running...now I can look around for the 130 dollar fuel cut out relay...and after determining the vehicle will run I can spend time and money so I can have a 4×4 for Wisconsin winter coming up.
@@richardsmith1289 Just get 2 or Circuit opening relays from the junk yard. You can get them from a Toyota corolla from similar year models. I think the corollas have them in the front of the center console right underneath the dash behind the radio, AC/Heater dials.
I dont have a relay with 5 terminals, how would you wire in a 4 - terminal relay, or could you?
what were your symptoms before replacing the curciut opening relay?
my car would just die after long drives (40 minutes or so) and then car would restart after a few minutes.......
No voltage to the fuel pump
@yat cho. I used to have that exact problem but on my 1989 Mustang GT 5.0. The problem was actually my starter, believe it or not. The solenoid on the starter was bad simply from being old and wear. It would start quick when the engine was cold. If I drove more than 30 minutes in 80 degree heat, here in California, I would park the car at a store or anywhere and when I got back in the car to go home or somewhere else, the car would crank slow & would then get stuck making only the clicking noise. The old solenoid would get stuck from the intense heat. Once the engine & starter cooled off for about 2 hours the starter would crank over. I went through this problem for about 9 months testing fuel & spark related problems when in fact it was nothing related to fuel or spark. So your problem may be a solenoid on the starter that is going bad and is getting stuck. Drive your vehicle for those 40 minutes, return home and turn off the engine. Then try to turn it on right away. If it doesn't crank, hit the starter with a metal object like a pipe or wrench. This may break loose the solenoid that gets stuck & it should start the engine again...but that's only if your problem is a starter problem. Or simply put a strong fan to cool down the starter to get the solenoid unstuck. You may have oil that drips down to the starter contacts while you're driving. Once you park the vehicle most oil drips off onto the floor and there may now be contact between the wires and the starter contacts.
Another problem I had with my 4runner was a rusty distributor at the rotor, the one that looks like a sprocket. I lightly sanded the sprocket points and the 2 magnets and now I had contact between those areas. The 4runner started right up. Of course first I checked for spark between the spark plug and the spark plug wire, there was no spark. Then I removed the distributor cap and inspected it for cracks or spark build up at the contact points and they were ok.. Then I inspected the 2 magnets & the sprocket points & I noticed the whole wheel was rusty and dirty. I knew right away that this was my problem. I lightly sanded the 2 magnets & the point contacts on the sprocket wheel, I put it back together and the vehicle started with no problem. Problem solved. After these past 8 months that you posted, I hope you found your problem. If not, maybe my experience may help find your problem.
@@johnnyjohn8073 Correct with these Toyota when they die and wont start till it cools off, many ppl think it's the fuel pump, the problem is really with the igniter in the distributor, I drove myself crazy buying new coil etc and finally when it died at home I put a multimeter to the wires going to dist and there was nothing, later I tested again when cold, the multimeter read and walla it started, The fix: I put in another distributor becuz the igniters inside are hard to find and havent had the problem since.. '
What was your problem that you had to change out that relay
No voltage to the relay
Makes you want to stay clear of Toyotas.
This is a Toyota fuel cut off switch. In an accident or bump or blown out tire. You can lose the power to the fuel pump.. Why not put a switch in like on a race car. Before you start it, turn on the fuel.
Toys are very reliable. But this crazy relay that is shaky and has a case of the jitters is freaky..
If it's good, It resets itself. If it's old and worn out, it's a mind fuck. It's called the Opening Relay Circuit.
If it gets old or thinks it's had an accident. No gas or little gas. It's connected to the EFI /injectors. Can it OPEN/break that circuit too? Weird crazy relay. It's like the ghost in the machine.
Disconnect from EFI and put a switch in? Put the switch out of sight. Only you know where for anti theft protection.
Does not last.