Best Way To Save Money On Spray Foam Insulation For Your New Build
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ธ.ค. 2024
- Simple but effective way to not pay for too much insulation.
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I helped a friend convert a 20' x 20' barn to a studio to use for dog training. It's a 2x4 framed structure, sheathed in T1-11. I had recommended we strip it to the studs and resheath it with Zip-R, but instead we just patched the openings and rotted siding with more T1-11, then a layer of rigid foam was put on the exterior. Wooden board and batten siding was put on the outside. I think house wrap went over the rigid foam. I wasn't around when the exterior was finished. I also recommended spray foam for the inside, but she went with paper faced fiberglass batts. In the winter, in upstate NY, it's comfortable even in the winter, without a heating system. She has a minisplit that needs to be installed.
Been watching your videos for years keep them coming, plus I wanted to leave the 1st comment! Cheers from Bay City, Michigan.
Hello, thanks for the views and loyal support!
Thanks Mike Always appreciate your no nonsense information!!
Thanks Mike good info. I was quite interested in the zip system until I watched failure videos. A lot were from improper installation but I was also surprised at the moisture trapped behind the taped joints causing rot from the OSB not being able to breathe. Another problem was nail or staple holes through the exterior seal. Every fastener has the ability to let moisture get in to the OSB. Some of these problems were weather during the build process and then covering the exterior before it had a chance to dry and trapping the moisture leading to all kinds of nasty problems.
Yikes! Exterior rot is a real issue and one that is very overlooked.
Thanks for the video
I am currently building a post framed home. It is framed with 6x6 posts and 2x6 girts. I plan on installing 1.5” rigid foam to the to the outside of the posts, fitting it between the girts. House wrap installed on exterior followed by steel siding. Then 2” closed cell foam will be applied to the inside of the rigid foam an wall girts. Are there any potential issues with this plan?
I want to skip insulation entirely and outsulate with spray foam only. Keep the framing open on the inside for easy access to plumbing and electrical and ventilation. No thermal bridging issues from the framing. I'd have thermal, air, vapor, and water barrier on outside. If sheathing gets wet it can easily dry to the inside. Why not?
Hey just wanted to say I love your content and the information you provide so thank you.
I was wondering your opinion on doing rockwool comfort board 80 2” on exterior with zip system sheathing, 2 inches of closed cell spray foam, and rockwool R 15 batted insulation for a post frame build. My goal is to have a phenomenal building envelope and have a building that is going to last years.
State of Maine is now R25 on exterior walls. I know some people are doing flash and Bate to get the value without breaking the bank
Wait until they have to repair it.
@@SprayJones builders do it to meet code and the average customer has no clue all they care about is what the kitchen and bathrooms look like
Can you do a video on spray foaming a metal garage building? The inexpensive tubular kind. Can you spray directly on the panels?Does it make sense.
Go watch my post frame building playlist. I cover spraying direct to metal there.
Hi I’ve been watching for a while. Now it’s time for me to build ! And I have two paths infront of me , bat inside and semi rigid rock outside. Or spray inside with rigid foam outside. I am truly torn (living in Vancouver ) I wonder how similar the prices would be.
Ps know any reputable spray guys is Vancouver?
If I use icf to make a basement can I spay closed cell spray foam on the exterior of the icf to seal it in Canada.
Yes, that has been done before.
How thick would you spray under a floor where you have a vented crawlspace?
He refers in the vid to a chart showing the percentage of heat loss at each thickness of foam. You can go back and stop the vid at that point. In another vid, he spends a large amount of time with the question 'how much is enough?'
You can see in the chart that the heat transfer is blocked to +/-90% by the first TWO inches of foam. Each subsequent inch blocks transfer but at a much smaller rate.
If you keep in mind that most heat loss is through the roof, your floor insulation does not need to be more than what the walls have. Thus, by cost alone, I'm thinking that Mike would recommend 2". More than that would be frosting, not cake.
Can i put spray foam closed cell on outside of the house before puting siding.. or thats a stupid idea
You can do that. We have a video on retro fitting walls via the outside.
I get nervous thinking about wooden sheet goods sandwiched between two impermeable layers.
It's all well and good to say "build it right and watertight the first time; don't build it shoddy and rely on after-the-fact drying" but that approach in effect violates the first rule of good engineering: redundancy.
We should build to keep the water out, but we should also build to deal with the chance that water gets in. You can be the best builder in the world with the best laborers who get all the details right, but if a tree limb falls during a storm after the house has been standing for 15 years and compromises something, and the handyman who comes along doesn't understand your construction technique so he patches it wrong and water starts getting in - well, you really ought to account for that possibility in your design.
So plywood or OSB sandwiched between an exterior watertight barrier and an inch or two of closed cell foam on the inside really makes me nervous.
I live in a 70+ year old house built using very standardized post-war techniques and materials. It's forgiving and repairable and can easily stand another 70+ years with only basic maintenance, and with great confidence the structural members will last that whole time.
Fine - use VP 100 vapor open membrane. Adhere it to the outside and then place your SPF inside. Then get rid of naked OSB and switch to Zip as the sheathing choice. Use their tapes and liquid flash coatings for cuts and rough openings.
At that point the building is bomb proof.
Boss it pu fome spry I can doing please can give me job
I wonder if SIPs would do this better for the exterior 🤔
Though that might end up for $$$ hahahaha
For sure it will be some bucks more and if you the $$$, it not a bad idea in my opinion for the EPS panels. The majority of the SIPS panels produced are made from the EPS material that has nice perm rating, thus moisture can be transferred to the outside. This will give the resistance to exterior rot, as Mike has indicated it is issue overlooked. If you carefully read the each manufactures specifications, they want to tape the interior seams only and do not tape the exterior as this now becomes the transfer side. The WRB must have a high perm rating and air sealed completely. With 2 inches of closed cell spray foam on the inside, you now did the taping. When using SIP Panels which is also the shear wall, you must use high grade screw fasters to complete the shear wall connection. Keep mind to make sure that the roof overhang is designed for that extra distance. Now, you should excellent BTU retention which is the name of the game. Depending on the CC product for a 2 inch application you could get up to a R-14 to 15 on the interior side with an R-16 on exterior side using 4 inches of EPS as the sandwich material the exterior continuous insulation.
At the same token, if the Zip-R 9 or 12 is used with SIP screws, then you can maintain your shear wall fastening requirements to lock in the diaphragm. Besides taping the joints on the Zip wall, you have seal the fastener penetrations of a secure air seal.
With either method, make sure the HVAC system is size accordingly with some sort of air exchanger.
BTU retention, the name of the game based upon your zone.
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