How Thick Can Spray Foam Insulation Be?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.พ. 2024
- Is there a limit to how thick we can spray the foam at one time? At what point should spray foam stop being applied? These questions and many more will be discussed in this most recent video.
sprayjones.com/
Do you need a vapor barrier with 2 lb? • Does 2 Pound Foam Need...
Greatest Intel drop on Roofs • Non vented Roofs And S...
Does SPF make Toxic Smoke? • Does Spray Foam Insula...
SPF for old wood buildings • Spray Foam Insulation ...
SPF for old brick buildings • Spray Foam Insulation ...
Existing walls with SPF via the exterior • Spray Foam Insulation ...
Roofs, attics, SPF, Video 4 • Cathedral Ceilings, At...
Roofs, attics, SPF, Video 3 • Cathedral Ceilings, At...
Roofs, attics, SPF, Video 2 • Cathedral Ceilings, At...
Roofs, attics, SPF, Video 1 • Cathedral Ceilings, At...
R Value Myth Exposed • R Value and Spray Foam...
Is spray foam Toxic? • Spray Foam Insulation ...
Spray foam and Electric Wiring • Spray Foam Insulation ...
#1 Reason People Get Cheated With SPF • # 1 reason people get ...
Post Frame Homes & SPF • Post Frame Home & Usin...
Container Homes & SPF • What is the best insul...
Flash & Batt II • Flash and Batt 2 | Can...
Is thermal bridging bad? • Is Thermal Bridging Ba...
Is spray foam insulation a vapor barrier/ • Does Spray Foam Insula...
Is there waterproof spray foam? • Is There Waterproof Sp...
Is 1 inch of spray foam insulation enough? • Is 1 Inch of Spray Foa...
Open cell foam • What is Open Cell Spra...
5 failures and why • 5 Spray Foam Insulatio...
How much foam do I need? • How Much Spray Foam In...
What Conditions do we need to apply? • What Conditions Are Ne...
Burning the SPF • Burning Spray Foam Ins...
SPF in contact with ground • Spray foam Insulation ...
Shingle life and SPF • Shingle Life and Spray...
The most dangerous SPF installers • Who are the most dange...
Why is our foam purple? • Why is our spray foam ...
Best practices for your basement • Best practices for spr...
Why is spray foam insulation safe and effective? • Why Is Spray Foam Insu...
The 10 Commandments of Spray Foam Insulation • The 10 Commandments of...
Can we inject spray foam into walls? • Can Foam Insulation Be...
Spray Foam Insulation for your New Home - Why? Before you Buy! • Spray Foam Insulation ...
4 Pitfalls of spray foam insulation • 4 Pitfalls Of Spray Fo...
Unvented roofs - Closed cell or Open cell • Unvented roofs - Close...
Trouble with spray foam - what 5 things do we test for? • Trouble with spray foa...
Low Income housing get SPF • Low Income Housing Get...
Spray foam insulation for metal buildings & Quonsets • Spray Foam Insulation ...
Spray foam insulation for basements - Rigid SM or SPF? • Basement Insulation - ...
Why put spray foam insulation under-slab? • Why Put Spray foam Ins...
How to know if you are talking to a Rogue SPF contractor • How To Know If You Are...
6 areas that need spray foam in your home • 6 Areas That Need Spra... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Perfect explanation of the differences, thanks
That Huntsman HFO looks so beautiful. I'm about a set into mine so far and absolutely love it so far.
Thank you for your awesome instructional videos!!
Glad you like them!
Thank you, sir! This is the information you recommended for me to a tee.
Glad to help
The knowledge is great
I live at 8000 feet in Wyoming. We have temperatures in the winter from typically 28° down to 30 below for a few weeks every winter. What would you recommend for a thickness on walls and ceilings for a metal build with concrete slab in floor heating. Close sell, Insulation.
Do you guys do any work in Montana?
Awesome helpful video: few questions for homes in US Tx, with Closed Cell application in attics do you need to remove the baffles or do these typically stay in place after the foam install? Also with regards to getting a conditioned attic space with installing closed spray foam, what is best method to dealing with HVAC air and gas furnaces setup in attics in the south climate zone 3? Since these gas furnaces are installed in attics and will need air intake! Any way to get around this issue before installing closed cell foam! Also is there any major differences between brands/companies manufacturers for closed cell foam of best to worst rankings?
Thank you
Yes remove un-needed baffles. For attics use high efficiency HVAC systems. When in doubt talk with Energy Wise Structures to design what you need out of Arlington, Tx.
SPF is like trucks, everyone has their favs.
@@SprayJones thank you!
I get that all the time in Texas. “Fold over some baffles” “Jamb a Batt in there”.
How bout you build me a proper 5 sided assembly to spray to!
Yup, they are lazy
I am looking to have my attic insulated. It is in Southwest Florida on the coast and it is a fairly shallow attic space, approximately 4’ high at the ridge. The house was built in 1964 and is a block house with a truss roof. What do you recommend for insulating that space? Also, I am having every window and door replaced with hurricane impact windows and doors in the next three months. I was told a sealed and spray foam insulation on the underside of the roof deck is the best option.
Go watch the playlist for vaulted ceilings, I have a video in there about spraying up vs down. Down is a problem.... learn why.
Do you recommend open or closed cell for application on the ceiling of a vented attic? Attic needs to remain vented because I have natural gas lines in the attic. The home is in Texas where we have serious summer heat. Thanks!
Closed, so you can walk on it.
When layering closed-cell foam, how is the bonding between layers? If pulled apart, would it break at the layer junction?
Cohesion is like a weld. Will break somewhere else usually.
I have a house built in the mountains of NH in 1973. Paying circa 900-1200/month . Thinking about pulling down the vaulted ceiling drywall and spray the 2x6 rafters with closed cell foam. Curious if you feel that 5” of foam will be enough and what will be the cost impact of my heating?
Watch the video "how much foam do I need". 4" will be lots
I’ve seen foam products whose listing / labeling restricts foam thickness to 2”. I’ve also seen foam panels manufactured as thick as 6”. I say: follow the instructions!
Foam generally requires moisture for the chemical reaction, and foams vary as to the “strength” of their bubbles. Spraying too thick will result in bad results: soggy, uncured cores, reduced bubble size (poor insulating), or distortion of building components.
Karen this is 1:1 spray foam, not a single component moisture cure. There is no need for the spray we are talking about to have "moisture" in order to cure. In fact moisture with this system is a detriment.
Unrelated question. I'm planning to use some freezeless hose bibs on a pole barn and use closed cell for the insulation. Will I be able to unthread the hose bib for future service or I need to cut out the drywall and cut the foam out in order to replace it if needed?
That stuff sticks to near everything well enough to add structural strength.
I'll bet you would never get it out.
I wonder if you were to plastic wrap the pipe or cover it with grease of some kind, it would prevent the adhesion.
Hopefully Spray Jones chimes in here.
It will be an issue to get it out. But that is what you want.
I would buy a quality model like Woodford that offers rebuild kits so you don’t need to replace the entire thing when internal components wear out after (hopefully) 15+ years.
I live in a 100 year old cold house and having a problem with smart mice. Could a hot spice be add to the foam to repel the mice. The basement is a stone foundation and 1st and 2nd
are lath and plaster. I live in the Toronto Ontario area.
The SPF alone is sufficient. You need to get it when the mice are coming in and seal off those passages.
What are your thoughts on 3" installs? Should I require my installer to do 2 and 1 or just be ok with 3" at one pass?
Anyone worth hiring knows how to install and does not need to be told. We would do 2 passes at 1.5".
@@SprayJones thanks
Im in Texas, trying to figure out if its possible to spray foam an attic on a 17 year old finished home. We bought the house 8 months ago and then i got into some building science and want to spray foam the under side of the roof deck so my attic is in the conditioned space.
Depends on how much space is in there to work and properly detail things correctly.
Watch the playlists for vaulted ceilings, more info available.
Is there any difference between the closed cell foam you spray and the closed cell foam they sellon like Amazon other than experience im disabled live in uninsulated 5th wheel in Texas and heat is killing me and my wife would love to have a professional come in but with my income that not going to happen if we want to eat and do you recommend a brand if any for a retired excavator operator thanks in advance
DIY foam is hit and miss. Best to buy it from a local contractor-supply depot.
Cardboard Blocking? Builders, jeezzzz!
What do you think about using the cans of spray foam (gaps and cracks) to fill in some tight corners if theres on a few small 1s on the job and then just going over with 2" of closed cell
Fine.. foam is foam. We use can foam to seal off mid sized gaps so the spray gun doesn't shoot it out fast.
so evidently there are products that can be used to fill blind spots without excessive buildup of pressure?!
Sure, can foam, open cell foam, if you leave a relief hole for foam to escape. Otherwise no, can foam will blow it out.
What about a 2" closed cell base and then going over the top with open cell? Is that kosher?
Introduces problems when there needn't be any..
@@SprayJones so you can do it? I had a client complain about cost
@@jwristen24 you could, but I have my doubts that you'll save money doing that. If you are spraying open cell and closed cell from the same rig you are going to have a lot of labor invested and chemical waste every time you switch back and forth. I personally just stick to one foam anymore and don't mess around with switching back and forth. So can you? yes. Should you? You run the risk of problems caused by it, so no. Are you going to same money doing it? Unlikely and it may just end up costing more to do it that way. That said, in my personal large garage I have this on my roof deck. Was it planned that way, no. It was insulated over a period of several years when I'd have the time or chemical I wanted to use up I'd spray part here and there on it. So the roof has anywhere from 2 inches in areas to 4 inches of closed cell. Then I had some open cell I wanted to use up, so in areas that got a second pass it has 12 inches of open cell over the closed cell and areas where I ran out before getting a second lift it has 6 inches over the closed cell. The garage is 40x72x14 and I park my spray foam rig in it as well as other equipment. If it was for a customer, I would not spray a couple of inches closed cell and go over it with open cell.
Ok. So there are situations where open cell foam works better than closed cell.
Good to know.
Oh yes.
Architectural Testing Inc. Out of York, PA performed a thermal efficiency test according to ASTM standard C-236. They found you start to hit the point of diminishing returns after 2 inches of spray foam. At 2" you are already at 86% thermal efficiency. You hit 90% at a thickness of 3.2 inches. Probably smarter to start investing more in your HVAC and climate controls after that point. EDIT - The above comments are about closed cell foam.
Watch "how much foam do I need"...
Does that work at -50? I have a lot more closed cell foam than that in our walls.
Yes, diminishing returns, but you really need to think about the lifetime expense of climate control of your structure to. A good BTU calculator can give you an accurate real life expectation of your actual BTU requirements as you change the R-value of the foam. While 2 inches is efficient, it's not sufficient. Also the more efficient you make the structure the smaller you can size your equipment, which unfortunately from my experience dealing with HVAC guys they don't seem to know how to do. You can spell it all out for them, try to educate them and tell them you need a 3 ton unit and they'll still give you a bid for a 8 ton unit, because they just don't understand. But that's a whole other problem which is unrelated to the foam itself.
@@christophergruenwald7266 I’m not a professional but have done a lot of research. I’m just finishing a small duplex where we built half to live in then the garage and owners half which I will finish taping today. Right now I’m heating the whole thing with about 120 M BTU a winter not including hot water. About 1400 is daylight basement open on the south side. We are just using 2 small toyo oil heaters and when it’s real cold I fire up the wood stove. A few weeks ago out digital thermometer pegged out at -40 and the big round thermometer had -52. This place is built on a south facing bluff with close to 200 square feet of windows on that wall. Yesterday was about 32F but sunny and the heaters shut off. They just ran a gas line up our road last summer so that’s the next project. The pex is already under all floors.
you fart in that house and its going to be to worm,
Warm
only if you are lighting your farts