Ford 4.6L & 5.4L 3V Triton Spark Plug Removal
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ย. 2013
- Here are the parts and tools you will need-
9/16" Spark Plug Socket-
amzn.to/2P4Y0E6
5.4L Plugs- (**LATEST PLUGS SP546**)
amzn.to/2KvN5CI
4.6L Plugs (** LATEST PLUGS SP547**)
amzn.to/2KuWevk
Ford Carb Cleaner Part# PM-2
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Ford Anti Seize Part# XL-2
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
A proven removal method that will yield good results. Having the engine warm not hot for removal is ideal but is not always viable in every situation. You are bound to break at least a few, and for that you should watch my other video on extracting the broken plugs.
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Here are the parts and tools you will need-
9/16" Spark Plug Socket-
amzn.to/2P4Y0E6
5.4L Plugs- (**LATEST PLUGS SP546**)
amzn.to/2KvN5CI
4.6L Plugs (** LATEST PLUGS SP547**)
amzn.to/2KuWevk
Ford Carb Cleaner Part# PM-2
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NU5M3W/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000NU5M3W&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=RONLOBF4ZX76C3ON
Ford Anti Seize Part# XL-2
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NUBH22/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000NUBH22&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=BJL5Q4BWXCIW6KNL
FordTechMakuloco hi at minute 5:45 did you put some carb cleaner to help getting out easier?
Hi you listed the sp546 but said the sp515 is the lastest. Which one is best to use.
The metal threaded part cane off while trying to remove spark plugs. The rest of the spark plug remained in the valve. Will I need to use the lisle tool to remove the rest of the plug?
ItzMeTG yup
Oh no, not Ford!!
doh
"Hopefully, one breaks off..." Now THAT'S something you don't hear often! Thanks for the video.
you funny.....
Lol I was thinking that to very brave 😂
I’m gonna hope for this every time I change my plugs. Every time I wish they don’t they do. Hopefully when I hope they do they won’t.
Last time I did mine, I broke 5. I guarantee that the word hope was used prior to execution in a much different context, and many other 4 letter words were used during the process. 😮
These old vids are the gift that keeps on giving. Thanks for all these.
2006 f150 5.4 205,000mi - I had to remove pcm & bracket to get to passenger far back. Didn't have time to wait overnight but after hour of carb cleaner I worked them back and forth until hand loose. Luckily my plugs had been replaced before they came out easy once cracked. 2 were hard to crack but carb spray works. A universal is needed for passenger side. Patience. This channel has saved me so much money. I'm becoming a member today.
I just did mine and did what this video said...On a cold engine, do one side first, loosen 1/4 turn, spray in carb cleaner, cover sparkplug with plastic wrap, let soak for 2hrs, remove plugs slowly, plugs will be tight, once plugs are almost out, take compressed air to blow out remaining carb cleaner, remove plug, put high temp anti-seize on threads, replace plug, put electrical grease on boot, replace coil. That is what i did...worked great, did not break single plug. I have 2004 ford f150 5.4l triton engine first spark plug change.
fecklar1905 would u recommend trying this without impact tools or a compressor?
Using anti-seize is unnecessary because the new spark plugs are solid, one-piece and also, the anti-seize will change the torque specs for the plugs...assuming you torqued them to specs in the first place.
@patricksproperties671 facts. Guys useing a impact on plugs to lolol
Anti seize is terrible idea on these.. just saying
I did it! I did it! Lol! Thanks for your awesome informative videos! Own my first ford. 2005 f250 5.4 3v and i changed spark plugs and coils today. Followed your video and worked great. This is the way to do the job every 5.4 3v owner fears. I have been a chevy man my whole life, and have replaced transmission on all i have owned. Decided to buy used Ford truck and then found out about 5.4 3v issues. I stumbled across your youtube channel and put me more at ease. Thanks for the videos. I have been all over the internet looking for how to info, and your videos are a go to for a lot of Ford mechanic websites, blog and internet sites.. Good job! Will be watching your videos. Thanks again!
All american vehicles have problems. Just switch to toyota and never look back
I don't know if you still have your truck, but if you do champion has made the regular one-piece design all along. I replaced mine original plugs with champions after the first change and you don't have to worry about doing all this preparation you just go in and take them out like you normally would. If you have a 2008 and newer you don't have to worry about this because they redesigned it. If you haven't switched the champions I would recommend it. Hey on the bright side spark plugs aren't that big of a deal it's not like you have a Toyota that that will rust in half on you😂
I bought an 05 F150 with a 5.4, 3 valve. It started to shudder on acceleration. Figured with 150K miles it was due for plugs.
I followed your advice on cracking them loose and then soaking them with carb cleaner. Using the 1/2 in drive ratchet is genius. I let them soak about 4 hours and then blew out the plug wells with the blow gun. All 8 came out without a hitch. Replaced the boots and cleaned the terminals on the coils.
She runs like a champ now. Thanks Man!!
I had the hex portion come off on a plug before, the threaded part stayed in the head. What a disaster that was. I had to use a square flute extractor tapped in there to get it out. I was sweating bullets that day
Hi Brian I just changed my spark plugs in my 07 F150 and coils. Did it the way you described in the video just used hand ratchet. Took me 3 hrs total,the first time I did it before I didn’t know about Your channel. I broke 4 and took me 2 frustrating days to do it, but I did use nickel anti-seize on them and that help them come out the second time tremendously better. I have 120,000 miles on it now and I’ve learned a lot on your channel I appreciate your work,thank you hope this helps somebody else. I live in Ohio and I’m gonna come to see you to do the phaser timing job maybe in the spring 2020 thanks again
I watched a few videos including this one and did my '05 SUV and my sister's '05 SUV over the last few days.. 15 plugs, 0 broken...
The method I used is simple, Impact Wrench only. My truck was cold (off for over 12 hours) and hers was hot.
The carb cleaner was unnecessary. It did nothing on my truck and I didn't even use it on her truck.
Rigid battery operated Impact wrench with regular 9/16 Husky deep socket, extensions (both ½" and 3/8"), and a ½" universal impact wrench joint was all I needed to remove each plug. It worked flawlessly.
My dad tried to do 1 by hand using the carb cleaner method, it broke. The rest I did using the impact wrench.. Took about 4 ½ to 5 hours per vehicle.
Thanks for all the information! I hope this also helps someone.
I made it through all 8 today. None broke. :) I used lots of penetrating PB blaster. I couldn't find Kroil anywhere. I just turned a quarter turn back and forth until they came out. The plugs removed were HT1, so I put ht1 back in. 157,000 miles. Thank you for the video.
Any issues reaching the ones in the back??
I just did my 06' explorer this morning. Cracked the plugs 1/4" turn last night and soaked them with carb cleaner. I don't think that very much cleaner penetrates down into the carbon, I didn't see any level change in fluid this morning. I think once it starts spinning, it leaks in and lubricates everything to help with the removal. I hit them this morning with the 3/8" impact. I used the shortest extension that I could get away with. I also used just enough torque to get the plugs moving and keep them moving. They didn't spin fast until they were almost out. I had no problem and I saved all eight from breaking. It's amazing how many garages use this method although Motorcraft says to use a torque wrench.
Kudos my friend. I used your method as well as some advice from my Mr. Tanguay. I ran 2 cans of Seafoam through it and then followed your instructions on removing coils and letting carb cleaner sit over night. I had nightmares about doing this. It is an '05 with 199,765 miles and same factory plugs. Great news..all came out intact except one and its tip was the only thing broken off (all ceramics had already been lost in cylinder and expelled through valve. Thanks for your videos.
What does your last statement mean? I'm in the exact same boat with an 05 grand Marquis
mr tanguay from mass?
I followed your instructions exclusively...even let it set over night. Seven of eight broke. Used a ratchet...did not have an impact wrench.
Back two could not get out. Towed to a rip off garage. $3000 later got it home and it ran awful.
Saw a youtube where you take the leads off the battery and connect them with an alligator clips wire for about 5 minutes.
Reconnect the battery....Make sure nothing on the vehicle is on...the computer will learn your vehicle completely fresh is what I understand
1) Turn on vehicle and let it set for 5 min
2) Start vehicle and let it run about 10 min
3) Drive the vehicle around going sort of easy...stopping, turning, blinkers, flashers; slowly start turning on things and let it run for a bit---A/C, heat, radio, wipers, windows up and down, etc. Reverse, different gears....you see what I am saying. Let the computer learn everything about the vehicle all clean and fresh.
4) After a day or so you can drive it a little harder....and it's gonna drive so clean and smooth.
Doing the alligator clips clears TOTALLY everything on the computer from what I understand.
I think the key thing that REALLY made the difference for broken plugs or not is the warm engine....not the carb cleaner, ratchet or impact.
Ford should have offered a free first time plug change on these engines. And the engineers should have been put in the soup line. Sorry.
THANKS!! I first ran seafoam through the tank and the vac line. Then I sprayed down the wells with PB Penetrant and let them set for 24 hrs. Then used the impact wrench. All 8 came out. None broke!!
Thanks for the detail. One thought, I appreciate that we don't want anything falling into the cylinder, but wouldn't it be more efficient to pull all the wires and then loosen all the plugs and put the cleaner in to start soaking? Then you don't have to wait between each plug, but all plugs will be soaking at the same time?
Thanks so much for making your terrific video. I did just exactly as you described and was all set for a harrowing day. All went well! I did discover that in late 2008 Ford finally made a correction and made heads for the 5.4 V8 Triton motor that accepts regular "normal" type spark plugs. You can tell what kind of plugs are in your truck by the color of the coil plug boot. If the boots are black, then you're going you have the achy breaky spark plugs. If the boots are brown you should have the new head design normal type spark pugs. Thanks again for taking the time to make your terrific video!!
Ok. But what about the people that still have the old head? They should do a recall and change them out for free!!
just finished with 2006 5.4 106k miles original plugs , using your advice, no broken plugs, 4 hours ,probably 2 next time. your videos are great examples !!!
You make it look so easy. Thanks for taking time to show us!
Thank you FTM for the EXCELLENT video. Nice, clear camera work. All tools, parts and procedures thoroughly explained. You took the time to get it right.
Thanks
I was not looking forward to replacing spark plugs on my 2005 f150 5.4l 3vl. I purchased the truck two years ago and now it has 140,000 miles on it. I heard about the spark plug issue when I first got the truck and thought it wouldn't hurt since I wasn't having any issues with plugs but knowing I would be doing a tune up eventually to start using seafoam in gas tank. I added seafoam to my fuel tank about once a month until current date. I just changed my plugs to the revised 546 plugs a couple of days ago, no problems what so ever, all plugs broke loose with ease no squealing or noise or binding while coming out. Once they were out found little to no carbon build up on the ends of the plugs. I know my senerio took place over a long period of time so can't speak to just how many cans of seafoam it would take to clear carbon from ends of plugs for easy removal but I would think if you added it accordingly for a couple months you should be good. I never coment but thought people should know about this with all the horror stories out there. Crazy because my plan from the start was to dissolve the carbon in the intake hoping I would not run into the problems everyone else was with breaking plugs off due to carbon build up. It payed off because they all came out with ease and no crazy noises or squeaking while removing. Hope this helps.
Great video. Thank you for the tips. I did everything the way you said to. ALL of the plugs on my 2006 Expo w/112K miles came out in 1 (ONE) piece. BOOM!
Steve Willsey
What do you do if you don’t have an air compressor to blow out the debris?
@@daryld.7472 yes, please. Update. Much appreciated
@@daryld.7472 its a late reply but, you can pick up a small compressor for under $150. You can also use a can of compressed air but, you'd probably go through a can per cylinder or 2
One day it would be nice to have a video of the plugs coming out after the application of antiseize to see if it is any easier.
Have done a few of these even on the V-10 #5 cylinder man that was fun. I've tried these methods but the best one for me was what i read on here somewhere is to start engine and get as hot as possible do one side then heat back up and do the other side, I'm sure you have heard of that or done it yourself.That was the easiest and quickest way for me. Whatever works! Great Videos, Thanks for posting.
prmayner Yes I have heard of this and have tried it.
Great video. Love the Jason Gray in the background too!
I like your video because all the time you share the link for all parts and tools 👍👍👍💪🇲🇽thanks
Great channel man! I've found your videos very helpful. Thank you
THANKS for the great video training. Craftsman on both sides of the camera. Well done! Thanks
What I’ve found best to remove original plugs is if you run the engine at 1500 RPM for approximately 10 minutes either on its own or with the fuel inj. flush (PM5) so the engine can be hot and hit the plug with a 1/2 impact but keep the socket/ extension as straight as possible also don’t put pressure on the plug. Best way is the flush which is you get the engine hot and hit the inertia switch or unplug to switch the fuel pump off and directly plug the flush to the fuel line and plug the vacuum fuel rail sensor hose and continue to run the engine to clean the carbon out the cylinder walls including the plug tips which is what seizes in the head. (Mix the (PM5) with gas)
I started with #4 on my 07 EL 3V Expedition because it had a P0304 and after switching the coils around for a few days it threw the same code.
I was working mostly by feel to get the socket on the plug when it started to turn by hand and came out in one piece. Wish me luck with the others.
I have an F250 5.4L. 122k miles. I'd guess factory plugs.
Just bought it and its misfiring. Gonna do plugs and coils in a week or so... Gonna try this method because it is simple and seems to make good sense. Had no idea this was an issue but glad to have something else to keep me up at night with worry haha.
Isaac Fuller did it correct your misfire?
I really like your videos, you explain everything so well God Bless you and thank you for sharing you work!
Just did this to my 2004 f150 with 245000 kms on it, used the carb cleaner and let soak for 20 minutes and rattled all 8 plugs out without a problem, I purchased the lisle tool just in case but never had to used it, this method works awesome, you can really see how the carb cleaner eats up all the carbon, i was really worried about doing this job and did lots of research on different methods and this is the one I felt most comfortable with and ended up changing all my plugs in less then an hour, highly recommend the carb clear method.
mike furlong could I ask you why you did it? I have an 06 which sputters majority on the hi way. I'm just not sure I should do this or the fuel filter/ injector. That's why I ask
mike furlong mine hesitates between 40-55 mph and new plugs and coils fixed that
How did you get to the ones damn near under the fire wall about to tackle this job wed on a 04
should I change the ignition coil when I change the plugs?
Would have been nice of them to apply anti-seize compound from the factory.
Or replace your plugs more often I’ve never had a stuck plug in my 3v😂
The employees are to worried about getting a break and crying to there union or stupid petty stuff to put anti seize on them
That would make sense yes but then the lazy people wouldn't be forced to seek out dealer mechanics at 150+ an hr
My 2010 just turned 60k miles with the 3v 5.4. This will be fun.
So I have a 4.6L Triton v8 engine. I got my spark plugs, coil grease, and the anti-seize. This may be a stupid question, but how can I tell what voltage my truck is?
And I'm not entirely sure what the solution was that he sprayed in there to get that plug out, but what has everyone else been using? Top recommendations? I've just got an Oreilly and AutoZone over here.
I'm trying to work with the bare minimum to replace these as I don't have a nice large garage to work in (learning on how to repair my vehicles one problem at a time).
do u have a video for a cross threaded spark plug?
Great video! I have an 03' Expedition XLT 4.6L 130K miles. Never had the plugs replaced. I have always been concerned with the "spark plug blow out" issues I've heard so much about. Does the issue with the plugs breaking & the plugs blowing out affect this 4.6? (It was built on 04/03) thanks, keep the videos coming!
Any suggestions as to removing the coil pack/boots? Do you just twist and pull? Are there any tools/tricks that facilitate removal?
I replaced the sparks in my 4.6 91 towncar with over 100k miles in 2005 and it went flawlessly for me. Didnt even know this was an issue haha.
Any tricks for a plug that the socket won't fit on? I have a lot of oxidation around the plug and blew out the hole but still won't fit..and of course it's #8!!
My 5.4 triton hunting truck has been misfireing for about a year and a half now haha. Once it warms up here in mn I'll be replacing plugs/coils.. should be fun. Can't wait to see what the plugs look like
How did it go?
thanks......always enjoy your videos.....bob
Wow lol...I have watch several videos and they all stressed that you should Always take them out by hand...until I watched this one...using an impack ...absolutly the best way he says lol crazy...
Thanks for showing us this keep up the good work
Any help had a plug snap off between hex head and threads. I've soaked for days and tried easy outs. Heated and cooled. No luck. I've used a 4' bar on it won't budge.
Hey man, I have no way of messaging you. But I want to let you know because of your videos and how structured they are my buddy and I managed to do everything from my timing on my '05 3v to plugs without any issue. Got all 8 plugs out without them breaking, timing set along with cam phasers. I REALLY appreciate the excellent videos. Thank you so much!
Did you use impact or ratchet on the plugs?
Hey bud! I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator it does not have the bolted down coils. It is a 5.4 but I am not sure if it uses these dreded spark plugs or just regular spark plugs. I have been putting this off for awhile. Do you know if the engine I have has these spark plugs that are known to break off? Like I the coil packs are not bolted down and the engine looks different than the one you are working on.
I bought my truck for next to nothing because it would sputter on the highway and even on hills, so I decided to go right through the truck because of the high km's, so I changed the spark plugs, i ordered 8 new cool packs but still haven't received them yet, while doing the plug job I noticed one of my coil packs had a crack in it, these trucks are known for coil pack problems, there's also a fuel pump drive module mounted to the frame of the truck above the spare tire, these are also known for corrosion problems, I checked mine out and there was a hole in the back of it from corrosion so I ordered one of those as well.
How do you get the plug out if it refuses to come out? That's what I need to know.
Thanx for responding and thanx for your service to ours country. Don't forget Long Island on your tour!!!
Just bought a 2002 Ford F-150. Is this a thing with all 5.4? Or just with the earlier models?
Thank you for getting back to me.
Great videos for sure- and appreciated to the regular shade-tree guy. Is this the same procedure as the v10? I have a 2008 F250 3V with 121K on it and I'm ready to tackle. 10X SP515 plugs, carb cleaner and dielectric grease already purchased. The reason I ask, is it seems the v10 isn't as common to break? Or is it just the rarity of the engine itself?
Thanks so much.
Thank you makuloco, I appreciate all your videos, I changed my spark plugs like you said, but I did not have any nickel anti seize laying around so I used hi temp copper seize instead, is that going to ruin my engine,? Thanks anybody for help.
will the sea foam spray work ? Or best to stick with just carb cleaner ? Running a can of sea foam in the tank now as a prep to change my plugs .
FordTechMakuloco Hope you see this and can offer some advice. The threaded collar/sleeve portion of the sparkplug came off leaving the entire ceramic portion including the top metal terminal intact/unbroken. Is there a method you can recommend to remove the sparkplug in this type of situation.
I have a question if you get the spark plug out can the carb cleaner sit in the engine for a little while without drying? I need to get a air pressure machine somehow.
I hope you see this what do you do to get a spark plug out that has both the metal collar and the top electrode removed , but leave behind porcelain in the head?
Bugger I got to remove my plugs from the 5.4 3 valve motor. That's in my 2006 Ford Fairlane in Australia. Now I'm very concerned lol. But thank God I watched this. Cheers wish me luck. As the vehicle I own is called a G8 only 151 were manufactured. Stressed out. Lol😅
Okay, so this is, or ISN'T the two-piece. We have a 2001 Ford F-150 that has a messed up coil and we decided to replace them all at once along with the plugs. They sold me spark plugs that are single piece for some reason and told me it fits the truck.
I Just did
but after all that process when turns the key on a 2004 f150 3v 5.4l surprise engine light on codes p0358 p0174 and p0351... pls help
the best thing i have personally found to get the plugs out (after getting tired of breaking them all off 100 times...) is to let the motor sit overnight, and take the out with a stone cold motor with an impact gun. i have had amazing luck like this! yes, some still break, but i have a lot less break since going that route.
I'm so scared to use the impact gun
So how does one get around the fuel rail on a 2010 Romeo 4.6 2 valve? The fuel rail is a wide, flat piece that sits 1/4 inch above the coils.
I seriously can't find any info on this engine aside from how to change out the fuel rail. Do I need to pull it?
Great upload. Any ideas for a substitute spray for the Ford Pm2 spray Carb Tune Up cleaner ? (In 2023 this stuff has all but disappeared for sale online.) Is Ford re doing the formula or something? Thanks~
Quality video, thank you! subbed
Do these SP515 plugs also work for Ford expedition 1999 5.4L engine?
In cylinder 4 of the 5.4 triton, I have a plug that just keeps spinning, does anyone know what to do in this situation? I have tried long needle nose pliers, tightening and loosen the plug, pb blaster, tried it both with the engine cold and hot. I can’t seem to break it so how do I go about getting it out? From my understanding the spark plug extractor is for when the plug is broken.
I show the comment you sent to my son for his truck and he caught my error. He has a 2000 Expedition. I am sure you caught my error too. I is a V8, 5.5L (330 CID); SOHC 16V; EFI engine type. Since I do not see 3V in the details I wanted to confirm it was the same answer for that the piugs should come out prior to starting the removal. Thank you for the great video's.
Jeff Carpenter Yeah the 2v plugs come right out.
Is it safe to get carburetor cleaner in the combination chamber like that? Will you have to change the oil afterwards.
Will this be the same for a 2007 Eddie Bauer edition?
Will pb blaster do the same thing as the carb cleaner
I have a F150 2006 four wheel drive Harley Davidson edition I changed all my spark plugs none of them didn't break but when I put new ones in and tried to crank the vehicle I heard a loud pop popping noise can you let me know what's going on
Is it okay to use PB blaster for seized/stuck spark plugs and spray in spark plug well to soak for removal?
You rock sir,links and all.Thanks again!
+River rat I like to help as much as I can.
Working on changing my plugs on my 05’ 5.4 Lariat . Sp- 515 plugs are in the link for other videos you have done Sp-546 are the “new” plugs that I have come across in forums.. Do you have the latest update or info on exactly which plug to get? Thank you in advance .
of course that's the very front of engine plug, what about the others that are very hard to reach, especially with the metal fuel line directly above all of them?
Can it be moved or removed?
Are the Motorcraft SP515 only for the 3v 5.4 Triton? Or can they be used on my ‘07 2v 4.6 Triton F150?
What do you do if you don’t have an air compressor to blow out the dirt?
Makuloco - video shows SP515, but to clarify, is SP546 the latest update and best replacement? Just bought a 2004 with only 44k miles. So hopefully time doesn't create stuck plugs and it's carbon from miles that causes difficult removal. Thanks for all your great tips!
thanks for this good video
Are the new 2010 models easier to do? Regarding the plug breaking and what not? @FordTechMakuloco
Do you have a part number for the one piece plug for the 4.6 L by chance?
do you have a video on the front axel knuckle seals. if not that would be a good video to make. I have a 2005 f250 both side need replaced, no one makes a detailed video on it
If only watching you do it accomplished it in my own vehicle.
I have a 2008 f250 5.4 that I recently just did plugs on. Put in sp546 (My 08 is the previous head design that doesnt use the sp515's). Anyways I disconnected the battery to do this for safety. during plug change, I found a plug that was loose (thankfully not too loose though). The initial time I put back my ignition coils, I loaded them with too much dielectric grease I believe...but the truck ran stinking smooth and had plenty of power! Drove it for about 45 minutes or so when I started feeling a jolt in the engine rythym (felt like a miss) while I was stopped at a red light. this then became more frequent as I drove on until the engine began running pretty rough, even when driving. Felt like misfires. Not once did the check eng light come on. I went back to clean out the excess grease, thinking that was affecting connectivity. I noticed several ignition coil pigtail wire connector tabs had broken so I've replaced those. also replaced all ignition coils (truck has 201k-figured it was time). Combed my enging for vac leaks-found none. For 201k the previous owner seemed to have kept up on the lines or something- they didnt seem too bad. I checked my fuses, ive cleaned my throttle body (was pretty dirty), and then I had battery Disconnected for awhile to reset the memory. had all accys off and turned key halfway and let it do its thing for 10 seconds, then started the engine and let it idle to temp. As the engine warmed I noticed a pass side ticking (truck has had a tick for awhile but never affected engine like im experiencing now). I took it for an easy test drive to help re-learn the shift points and all. Still having a really noticeable engine shake. Best I can describe is a bouncing feeling. Also when I drive and keep consistent pressure on the gas pedal, the acceleration seems to be pulsing almost, and not getting good consistent power.
I've been careful to use Motorcraft parts for the plugs and coils (dg511 coils) What am I missing? or am I just being impatient while the truck re-learns? since my latest work today/battery disconnect, I've driven it say 20 mins after letting it idle to temp. Thanks a ton! this has been keeping me up at night for the past week.
Did you figure it out?
@@getfurtherfasterdealer said cyl 1 was dead and no compression. they suspect a lifter blew out as an unrelated failure. their quote was about $500 less than a new engine so I went that route.
Can any carb cleaner work or just the ford one? Can find it right now with this crisis I bought the so-493 motor craft spark plugs before I saw your video are this ones ok or should I get the ones you recommend. 06 f150 4.6? Thanks
I have been watching your vids about the spark plugs breaking and how to extract etc. Come to find out, the day I was going to change plugs on my 2008 F150 (had all wrong plugs, coil and boots ready to install) just happen to read a Ford Forum online that talked about the change that Ford had made on engines starting 10/2007 on the new design of valve, spark plugs etc. I looked at my Coil boots and they are "Brown" in color then looked on my motor and it was built 03/2008! So to make this a little shorter, check your coil boots and if they are black you have the bad design plugs, but if they are brown you need the updated plugs Motorcraft SP-509 one piece that will not break off! Consider yourself very lucky! Still follow the cleaning with airgun, and spray a small amount of penetrating oil (Aerokroil's great) plus nickel high temp on the threads. I was damn lucky and hope you are too!
You are very lucky to have the late model yes that is how they should have been designed since day 1.
I spent 2 weeks watching your channel (mainly) and a few others and got to the dive in and do it mode, then bam! I looked at my motor then the boots and what a relief!!! Thanks for your knowledge, without it I might have done it my way :(
I have worked on my own and family cars since I was in high school , but not a full blown mechanic. People like you are a great asset to those who need help!
If you don't have an impact can you just use the socket and ratchet just go slow also what's the part number of the plugs in the carb spray
I can't get the socket down on the plug. I've tried blowing air around the plug but it didn't help
Great video I have picked up so many great tips from your channel. I have a 2006 F150 5.4 and I just finished with new plugs and coil packs. I followed all of your instructions and used OEM parts. All went well no broken spark plugs and I made sure to use OEM anti-seize and dielectric grease. The engine light that was on is now off but I have a little problem. Seems to be a little hard to start not too bad but runs a little rough and the idle goes slightly up and down I have no idea what is wrong now and I need to get a smog check. I just purchased a Actron CP9180 plus Auto Scanner but have not sat down to learn how to use it I am a newbie to automotive repair but trying my best to do things the correct way and you have been such a blessing. Any advise would be greatly appreciated I am tired from the spark plug job and a little frustrated that it now runs rough after all that work and new parts. Thank you for all your help have a blessed weekend. -Paul
miine does the same thing! did you ever figure out what the problem was?
@@Hookem65401 thanks!
Got 2004 with 274000 miles on it I doubt the spark plugs have ever been changed do you think that that's why I'm having trouble accelerating up hills
Wouldn't turning it 1/4-1/2 turn just break the spark plug right away?
Camren Monroe No they turn a bit before binding and twisting this lifts it off the seat and allows the cleaner down to the tip.
Thanks for the video and the reply...
Hi..your videos are excellent...I have been able to do work on my 2008 F-150 lariat that would have cost me a lot of money...I have an issue with one spark plug my 9/16 socket will not go around the spark plug...I tried "lightly tapping it on...I have ground the socket body down in case it has an issue with the wall distance...I have no idea if this is original plug and someone could not remove it on a spark plug change...any ideas would be appreciated
Can't these plugs be replaced with a different one that does not have that extraordinary length? What model of f150 is this pls?
i have a 2008 Ford F150 5.4 and the spark plugs dont look like these big ones why is that?
I'm going to get my spark plugs changed in my 2005 expedition... With that risk of the plug breaking off into the head... Can I be legally charged to retrieve that from the head when my original work was to be changing coils and spark plugs?
Passenger side back plug . any suggestions on how to reach and break loose ?