best super specific tip ive seen in months. The exact kind of non general tip i love and is genuinely useful to a beginner. Im talking about removing parts from sprues or frets or whatever you call them. Going into minutiae is what this hobby is all about. Very refreshing to see. I prefer these vids compared to the "relaxation" videos which dont teach, they entertain. Thank you for teaching. if i ever make a video i will use your tip in yhe video for sure
Up the Irons Tim! My approach has become snipping the sprrue away from the part and then using a single-bladed nipper to finish the job. I use a glass file or piece of a sanding pad to complete clean up as necessary. The higher quality nippers are usually rated for 3mm maximum thickness, so in your example I would cut lengthwise along the attachment point as it appears to be thinner that way.
Great tip Tim. As someone else mentioned, would you do a video on working with clear parts? Like the glass in Salvino's kits or the others that have separate windows. Thanks again!
This is a pretty common problem with clear parts trees as well. I don't know why. Perhaps the clear plastic formula doesn't flow as easily as colored styrene? Hence the need for larger attachment points. 🤷♂️
Maybe clear parts are made of different plastic than styrene? Clear parts seem to be far more brittle than coloured styrene, thus way harder to remove from the sprue. Hopefully, Tim and Aaron will answer our questions in future episodes.
Thinking about it logically, it shouldn't really matter. One of the points of modelling is the joy of gaining new skills, improving your techniques and the effort you put into building the kit rather than a quick slap together. There are some tedious aspects and tasks, but I'd rather spend another 20-30 minutes working on that one 'nub' and ending up with a fine finish. It's an extra 30 minutes I spent on the kit, but it's an extra amount of time doing what I enjoy.
Very well done Tim. That wing is going to look great. Yhank you for sharing.
Thanks, Bob!
Useful video excellent shirt by the way I'm a maiden fan since 86
best super specific tip ive seen in months. The exact kind of non general tip i love and is genuinely useful to a beginner.
Im talking about removing parts from sprues or frets or whatever you call them. Going into minutiae is what this hobby is all about. Very refreshing to see. I prefer these vids compared to the "relaxation" videos which dont teach, they entertain. Thank you for teaching.
if i ever make a video i will use your tip in yhe video for sure
We're so glad you found this helpful and that you liked our video!
Awesome tutorial again! EDDIE!!! UP THE IRONS!🤘
Great vid as usual! Extra points for rocking Eddie! He like British RAF Aircraft models (obviously!)
Up the Irons Tim! My approach has become snipping the sprrue away from the part and then using a single-bladed nipper to finish the job. I use a glass file or piece of a sanding pad to complete clean up as necessary. The higher quality nippers are usually rated for 3mm maximum thickness, so in your example I would cut lengthwise along the attachment point as it appears to be thinner that way.
Great tutorial. Thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Great tip Tim. As someone else mentioned, would you do a video on working with clear parts? Like the glass in Salvino's kits or the others that have separate windows. Thanks again!
Great suggestion! Clear parts is on our list.
Cool video. I already Lost a tip of a finger detaching a wing from the B-17 1/48 from Revell and damage lots of small parts.
On a part with that large an attachment point,I personally use a razor saw to cut it from the sprue tree,then sand it down
This is a pretty common problem with clear parts trees as well. I don't know why. Perhaps the clear plastic formula doesn't flow as easily as colored styrene? Hence the need for larger attachment points. 🤷♂️
Maybe clear parts are made of different plastic than styrene? Clear parts seem to be far more brittle than coloured styrene, thus way harder to remove from the sprue. Hopefully, Tim and Aaron will answer our questions in future episodes.
Thinking about it logically, it shouldn't really matter.
One of the points of modelling is the joy of gaining new skills, improving your techniques and the effort you put into building the kit rather than a quick slap together. There are some tedious aspects and tasks, but I'd rather spend another 20-30 minutes working on that one 'nub' and ending up with a fine finish. It's an extra 30 minutes I spent on the kit, but it's an extra amount of time doing what I enjoy.
Do what makes you happy and the results you're looking for.
Its all in the technique, like a calming Zen thing. Slowly remove the plug until no one knows it was ever there.
Like ripples fading of the surface of a still pond.
I only use metal files on photo etch,I find that metal files are just too aggressive and abrasive on plastic
Tim....... does this work for.......dioramas? LOL Just had to say that in case Aaron reads these comments?
Why did the model go to therapy?
It had separation anxiety.
There really isn't a lot of model jokes out there.