Easy CNC Accessories | Making Tools on your CNC | In the Labs with Todd | Vectric FREE CNC Projects
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.พ. 2023
- Getting into CNC is easier than ever and routers are an amazing tool for any maker, but have you ever thought about combining learning to use your machine with creating some practical tools you can keep and use again? Or maybe you’re looking at ways to improve your existing skills by making some vital equipment for your workshop.
Watch how Todd creates these fun, easy-to-make hold-downs, a useful tool tray, sturdy mallet and handy palm sander as four ‘must have’ CNC accessories to help improve your workflow or organize your tools a little better. Get started making something unique that you can be proud of and try making your own custom set of tools using that work perfectly with your setup!
These FREE projects comes with the file(s) for you to download from your V&CO account. For those of you yet to try our software packages, why not download our FREE trial software with these project files and give it a go!
Happy Making!
Click here to download the files: www.vectric.com/vectric-commu...
If you’re new to Vectric and you’re looking to purchase easy-to-use CNC software, why not download our FREE trial software to be sure it’s right for you: www.vectric.com/free-trial
Alternatively, to upgrade your existing software from a previous version or to Aspire from one of our other products (Cut2D or VCarve), simply login to your V&CO account here: portal.vectric.com/login
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Todd I really enjoyed this video. Especially your mallet it's fantastic. Thank you
Hello Alain... thank you for the lovely comment! So glad you liked it... :)
Always appreciate these videos - learn something new each time. Thanks for putting them out!!
Thanks for leaving such a nice comment!!! We love making them and so glad you find a few nuggets of "learning" in them!!!
If you drop your threaded inserts deeper into the spoilboard you'll get quite a few 'resurfacing cuts' before you get your inserts. That's what I have on my machine. Nice video, and thank for sharing.
Yes you are right... and a great tip. I did think of that but seeing as I was trying to maximize the "Z" travel on the CNC, I went with a MDF that was just a hair thicker then the threaded insert. You are 100% correct and if I had the room I would have done it like you suggested. Maybe in the future I'll see if us loosing a bit of "Z" travel is really a big issue compaired to how often we hit the inserts. YIKES! Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment!
I add my inserts from the backside or the underside, it usually leaves about a 1/4” material above the insert to surface the waste board. I also make my hold downs out of remnant maple flooring, really good hardwood.
Excellent ideas and a great explanation of the steps. I continue to learn a lot from your videos- thank you!!
Thanks Stuart!!!! We love making them, and so glad you are taking a bit away with you... :)
Thanks! Useful application!
So glad you like it!!! Thanks for leaving a comment!
Awesome Todd, Thanks!
Glad you liked it!!!
Thanks! Good tips
Thanks for the comment!!! Appricate you tuning in!!!
Nice projects. I think I would make the tray pockets deeper - and put the push-down recesses at both ends.
Hey Don!!!! Thanks for leaving a comment! That is a really great idea! Also, if I was to do this agian I would make the pockets wide enought to house the tool in the plastic sleave (box). If you have more then one bit that looks the same at a quick glance you might grab the wrong one. Also these cutter can be very sharp, as I'm sure you know, and grabbing or pushing them from the "cutting" end could lead to a few scratches.
Great production and very informative, thanks for the inspiration! The new music is a nice change too.
Thanks for leaving a comment!!! So glad you liked it.
Thank You Very Much. Please, Some more projects.
Thanks for the comment!!! We will be releasing new projects all year... so keep your eyes peeled!
Very cool. My first thought is to make a bigger pocket in the mallet head to hold steel shot and create a dead blow mallet.
Thanks for the video!
Yes!!!! I love that idea!!! I was hoping somone would think of that sort of thing!!!
Well done sir!
Thank you Kevin!
Dobry materiał :)
Thanks!!!
Thanks!
Cheers!
Nice
Thanks!!!
Nice presentation. To save my spoil board I like to zero my z to the top of the spoil board then raise it to the thickness of my material and rezero it, that way I know I will cut through the material and only leave a small mark on the spoil board.
Great tip! Thanks Dean!!!
what brand of double sided tape did you use? whatever the brand you use it looks like it holds a heck of alot better than what I am using
Hello and thanks for the question... "Mammoth" carpet tape I believe.
Thank you for the video. Can you provide some info on your case that surrounds your CNC. Materials, cost etc. I have a CAMaster Stinger 1 and would like to consider such an enclosure
Thanks for leaving the comment and question. That was from Ooznest, and they provide the parts and I believe it comes in different sizes. You might want to have a look at their website for referenece. I also believe they sell the parts to make your own... but I would check with them. ooznest.co.uk/product/original-workbee-enclosure/
If we can't make the broadcast will there be a downloadable video available on this great topic soon? Thanks for the great stuff, software and support! Mike M
Thanks for the opportunity to upload, I imagine this video will be very interesting.
I look forward to seeing the content.
Greetings from Switzerland
Hello Mike... thanks for the question and comment!!! Yeas, as soon as it goes live on TH-cam the files for the projects will be avaiable in your V&Co account. the video will be here for as long as TH-cam is a thing... so you can check back anytime to view it.
So... a question: At 12:50, you have the start depth at .125, and the cut depth at .0... Is that correct?
Good spot!!! In this case it does not matter ... I forced the tool to go to that Start Depth and then cut the pocket there. Really this could have been problematic if that .125 was too deep for my tool to handle in one pass. Well spotted... that was a test and you passed... ;)
What type/brand of double-sided tape are you using?
Hello... good question... let me check. It is called MAMMOTH Tape... hope that helps.
At 6:06 you start talking about tabs and then you dismiss the grain because it's plywood. Would you please elaborate on grain and tabs.
Thanks for the question. Yes, I did, seeing as plywood is layered, depending on the thickness of the tabs the thickness could be made up of more then on layer. And I believe, but could be wrong, with plywood the layers are glued up "cross-grained" for strength. When it comes to solid softwood or hardwood, the direction of the grain is consistent throughout the material... so thin-ish tabs that go with the direction of the grain will be weaker than ones that go against the grain. I'm in the habit of thinking of the grain direction in my material for aesthetics and also how strong my tabs will be (if I am using them).
To add on, hardwood is difficult to sand on the end grain, which is where the proper placement of the tabs would be. It's a trade off, strength through the cut or easy finish sanding. I opt for double sided tape when possible to avoid the issue at all.
Millimeter zu verwenden wäre für die meisten einfacher
Inch ist International doch etwas umständlich
Dank dafür. Wir versuchen, unser Projekt in Zoll und mm zu mischen und anzupassen, um alle zufrieden zu stellen.
Wir haben einige Funktionen der Software, die es einfacher machen, zwischen den beiden zu wechseln. In den meisten Zahlenfeldern können Sie „*i“ hinzufügen, um in Zoll umzurechnen, oder „*m“, um zu mm zu wechseln.
Hoffentlich hilft das... :)
------------------- English Version Below - Transulated with Google --------------------------------
Thanks for that. We try mixing and matching our project in inches and mm to keep everyone happy.
We do have a few features of the software that make it easier to switch between the two. In most number fields you can add "*i" to convert to inches or "*m" to switch to mm.
Hope that helps... :)