ok..ok... take my money already. Never thought I would upgrade from VCarve 11.5 Pro to VCarve 12.0. but you actually made me change my Mind. Nice work and keep going! Greetings from Germany
Another nice video Todd. I heard you were frustrated by chipping but that is to be expected when carving into face or edge grain. That is why high cost inlays are typically done use end grain glue-ups - but you probably already knew that. Maybe others don't so thought I would mention it.
@@vectric Glad I shared the information then. I am looking at doing one of my videos on inlay toolpath - pros and cons of the new toolpath the way many of us have been doing this for years. I just have to find time to get it done. Looking forward to seeing you folks in Austin.
I mean thats not the main reason. The main reason "high cost" inlays are end grain, is because "high end" butcher blocks and cutting boards are going to be end grain typically, due to their longevity and less damaging nature to knives. - and obviously you want the inlay oriented in the same direction as the overall block, otherwise it will likely split over time. So while yes, end grain may be easier for doing inlays, but that isn't the main reason end grain is done.
You are correct that is not the main reason. But, this video was about inlays and my comment was about understanding chip-out is highly probable in face and edge grain boards.
The harder the wood, the more likely to get chip out. Purple Heart is hard, tight grained and brittle. Try using a 3-flute v bit. Cut the v bit first, there is more material to support the wood, then clear out as usual.
Super nice and instructive video. I'm so eager to use this new feature, having seen your cutting board I'm even more eager My next video will be about some V carve inlay I did, I cut them a week before the release of V12... I even say in my video that I'm excited about this new feature. Thanks again Todd
Thanks for that!!! The new feature really makes it easy for a new to V-Inlay user. Knowing how to do it from scratch has its benefits too. I'll be watching your video!!!
We get that tape from SrewFix, here in the UK, it is called "Everbuild Everbuild Double-Sided Cloth Carpet Tape Mesh Clear 25m x 50mm " - here is the link... www.screwfix.com/p/everbuild-double-sided-cloth-carpet-tape-mesh-clear-25m-x-50mm/440fr
Hi Todd, thanks for the vid. I am transferring a 21st key over from V10/11.55 which has the inlay on the 21, I am thinking of putting the name and date as a inlay too. How are the 3 parts set out in the setup? Do you set up the size of your project and add the two male inlays separate? I was a bit confused at first when the program added another male inlay so I have decided to delete all previous toolpaths and only keep the drawings of th key perimeter ,name and 21. It did frustrate me seeing the warning screen pop up all the time but your video explained that. Cheers Alan
Hi Todd, excelent video and great new vcarve feature. I have been doing inlays for a couple of years and have a tip re flattening the plug. Chipping is a big concern and I have tried several methods. What I find now that works best is to create a straight line moving from right to left, in climb direction. I use a 1/4 inch bit and as the bit moves from right to left in climb, the cut is moving into the wood. I then simply cut and paste or do an array and move the line up and make enough lines until I clear the plug. I have tried having a path do a pocket, and I also have tried straight lines going both directions, right to left and then left to right. I find the left to right tends to tear the material and the cut is pulling away from the plug stock. A single line, moving from right to left with the cut pushing into the stock really did the trick for me. FYI - Bill
WOW... GREAT tip!!!! Thanks for taking the time to write that all up!!! I'll keep that in mind next time, and I'm sure this will be very helpful for others.
Hi Todd, I enjoyed the video. I primarily make end grain cutting boards, just wondering if you could show how this works with an end grain cutting board. Looking forward to more videos.
Thanks for the video Todd well done. I have done two different inlays with the new inlay toolpath the only problem i have had is a little chipping i had to fix but the software definitely does its job well. I have not done the end grain technique yet but looks like that would be a better way to do it.
Hello and thanks for the question. The .25" refers to the "shank diameter" not the cutters diameter. So something like this would work - global.toolstoday.com/v-13336-rc-1148tt.html To be transparent there are lots suppliers that offer this type of cutter (with or without a fixed cutting surface) so this is just an example. Hope it helps.
Excellent video, thank you very much! Just a question, when I want to create inlays with this function, I'd like to use my 12.4° bit to be able to make thinner details, but the software doesn't show it to me. I can't use it. Do you know why? Thank you for your time!
Hello Pierre... in the VCarve inlay toolpath we only allow V-Bits... not tapered endmills. Unfortunately we need to do this so that we can guarantee a perfect result. You can still use the old method for that sort of bit if you like.
Nice video, thanks! Suggestion for anyone doing this: Purple Heart always looks great when it's first cut, but turns brown after a while, due to UV exposure. Cherry does the same. Just something to keep in mind when designing inlays, as they can "disappear" into darker woods.
Great video - thanks! Would this work with the tapered ball nose bits that are seen with the higher detailed inlays? Like Broin woods boards? He uses the tapered ball nose verses v bits. Thanks!
Hello we use "Everbuild DOUBLE-SIDED CLOTH CARPET TAPE MESH CLEAR 25M X 50MM", it was a 60 degree vbit and the link to the other video is - th-cam.com/video/zui8vL_SmVk/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps...
Thanks for the video, I think I spotted an error in your calculations, please correct me if I'm wrong. When you were setting up the depth to remove the top of the plug you increased the 0.66 to 0.7. Didn't that take the bit into the serving board and that was why you had to resurface it later?
Hey Tom... I believe I also changed the material thickness of the plug material to .7, so that I would not go too deep. I'm not sure what happened... it may have been some dust under my zero plate, or the material shifted a bit.
Great video but I have two suggestion. Run your V- bit before your clearance bit. When done that way you will not get the chipping. When surfacing the plug use a piece of paper to offset your zero. If you do that it should be nice and flush that way you don't get the step like you got.
Hello Doug... Yes you are correct, a lot of users would run the v-bit first. I was going to mention that, but in the past I have, and I have gotten comments like yours but saying the opposite... LOL. I think knowing you can do it either way is very valuable and the user can pick the option they like better. I have a feeling my material moved or flexed a bit... but anyhow... in the end it work out lovely... :) Again thanks for the comments!
Sweet! I have tried the old way with mixed success. This new tool is amazing. My first test using the parameters you noted here, seems a little loose, like its not seated all the way?? Is there a way to make the pocket deeper or the plug shallower? I must be missing something simple or obvious.. But the nI am missing it 🙂 🙂Now I need to work with the sheets function, which I have not done before. Tanks again, Doug.
Hello Doug... Hummm... the loose fit seems odd. I wonder if you have a fuzzy plug, or not enough of a glue gap with an uneven surface. It is hard to troubleshoot in a coment here. As for your other question... bu ajusting your glue gap and surface gap you can control how deep your plug will go in. Definitaly mess around with the numbers and a few test pieces, untill you find the right setting for your set-up, materials, and CNC.
@@vectric Success! Tried different setting and a 60 degree bit. Still need to play with the glue gap.. but all in all happy. How do i send a picture of the successful project?
Hello and thanks for the question. Short answer... I could have :) I was just not all that confident in using the surfacing bit, and was worried it might cause more chipping... but I could be wrong. If I had more then on kick at making this I probably would have given it a try to save time.
Chipping is always an issue when trying to inlay long grain pieces. If you take the time to create end grain blanks, you will virtually eliminate this issue.
I really like vcarve pro abd also your developpement from year to year! There is unfortunately only one downside: No macOS support That is very sad Otherwise cool video! Started inlays in 2019 but now it is easier, cool
Hello and thanks for the coment. We have heard from some users that a Mac version would be nice... so you never know where the future might take us, but for now we do have some users that run our software under Parallels. Thanks or the lovely comment, and I will pass it onto the Development team!
Thanks for the coment. I did mention why the error happens and if so you have the chance to "Cancel" and ajust the pocket depth. In really detailed inlays you may not be able to not get the error, seeing as there my not be any flat tops of the plug to allow for a glue gap. Also some useres really are not fussed about the lack of glue gap. We just show a warning so you have an opertunity to make a change befor you calculate all the tooling. Hope that helps...
Every video I watch and follow along with, always puts my plug and pocket on top of each other on the same board. Nobody shows how to create separate boards for each one and mine always creates 2 toolpaths, one on top of the other. Never works and I can't figure it out.
Hello... I do point out that you should create the 2 sheets you need for the pocket and plug. If you do this ahead of time you will see in the VCarve Inlay Toolpah and option to pick the "Plug Destination Sheet", choose the sheet you would like your "Plug" vectors to be placed.
great video, I need to upgrade my desktop! Thanks
ok..ok... take my money already. Never thought I would upgrade from VCarve 11.5 Pro to VCarve 12.0. but you actually made me change my Mind. Nice work and keep going! Greetings from Germany
Lovely to hear!!! Thanks for that!
Ditto. Will be a minute before I pay the $450, but this is the feature that is worth it. They should have led with this :)
Another nice video Todd. I heard you were frustrated by chipping but that is to be expected when carving into face or edge grain. That is why high cost inlays are typically done use end grain glue-ups - but you probably already knew that. Maybe others don't so thought I would mention it.
Rob... thanks for that, and "No" I did not know that. I will give that a try next time. Thanks for sharing!
@@vectric Glad I shared the information then. I am looking at doing one of my videos on inlay toolpath - pros and cons of the new toolpath the way many of us have been doing this for years. I just have to find time to get it done. Looking forward to seeing you folks in Austin.
I mean thats not the main reason.
The main reason "high cost" inlays are end grain, is because "high end" butcher blocks and cutting boards are going to be end grain typically, due to their longevity and less damaging nature to knives. - and obviously you want the inlay oriented in the same direction as the overall block, otherwise it will likely split over time.
So while yes, end grain may be easier for doing inlays, but that isn't the main reason end grain is done.
You are correct that is not the main reason. But, this video was about inlays and my comment was about understanding chip-out is highly probable in face and edge grain boards.
The harder the wood, the more likely to get chip out. Purple Heart is hard, tight grained and brittle. Try using a 3-flute v bit. Cut the v bit first, there is more material to support the wood, then clear out as usual.
Got vcarve Pro 2 days ago, and I'm sooooo going to try this today. Really want to get into inlays.
Nice... let us know how it goes!!!
Super nice and instructive video.
I'm so eager to use this new feature, having seen your cutting board I'm even more eager
My next video will be about some V carve inlay I did, I cut them a week before the release of V12... I even say in my video that I'm excited about this new feature.
Thanks again Todd
Thanks for that!!! The new feature really makes it easy for a new to V-Inlay user. Knowing how to do it from scratch has its benefits too. I'll be watching your video!!!
Hi Todd, I have never done any inlay work before but this video has inspired me to do so. Super stuff.
Thanks for that!!! Go for it... it is a lot of fun!!!
Hi Todd, another well done video on this new V12 option! You and the team are systematic & well organized, can't wait to try this out. Take care.
Thanks Kevin!!!
What double sided tape are you using? Thanks for the informative videos!!
We get that tape from SrewFix, here in the UK, it is called "Everbuild
Everbuild Double-Sided Cloth Carpet Tape Mesh Clear 25m x 50mm " - here is the link... www.screwfix.com/p/everbuild-double-sided-cloth-carpet-tape-mesh-clear-25m-x-50mm/440fr
Hi Tod, thank you so much for this video! You answered sooo many questions I had. I totally love Vectric!
Thanks Chris!!!
Hi Todd, thanks for the vid. I am transferring a 21st key over from V10/11.55 which has the inlay on the 21, I am thinking of putting the name and date as a inlay too. How are the 3 parts set out in the setup? Do you set up the size of your project and add the two male inlays separate? I was a bit confused at first when the program added another male inlay so I have decided to delete all previous toolpaths and only keep the drawings of th key perimeter ,name and 21. It did frustrate me seeing the warning screen pop up all the time but your video explained that.
Cheers
Alan
Hi Todd, excelent video and great new vcarve feature. I have been doing inlays for a couple of years and have a tip re flattening the plug. Chipping is a big concern and I have tried several methods. What I find now that works best is to create a straight line moving from right to left, in climb direction. I use a 1/4 inch bit and as the bit moves from right to left in climb, the cut is moving into the wood. I then simply cut and paste or do an array and move the line up and make enough lines until I clear the plug. I have tried having a path do a pocket, and I also have tried straight lines going both directions, right to left and then left to right. I find the left to right tends to tear the material and the cut is pulling away from the plug stock. A single line, moving from right to left with the cut pushing into the stock really did the trick for me. FYI - Bill
WOW... GREAT tip!!!! Thanks for taking the time to write that all up!!! I'll keep that in mind next time, and I'm sure this will be very helpful for others.
I used the Zank method in earlier versions of Aspire with great results. I do inlays regularly.
Excellent!!!!
Nice explanation - thank you!
Glad it was helpful!!!!
Great video! What brand of double sided tape do you use? Thank you!
This is the tape we use - www.screwfix.com/p/everbuild-double-sided-cloth-carpet-tape-mesh-clear-25m-x-50mm/440fr hope this helps!
Hi Todd, I enjoyed the video. I primarily make end grain cutting boards, just wondering if you could show how this works with an end grain cutting board. Looking forward to more videos.
Be sure to use an end grain board you make to cut the plug, otherwise the process is the same. 38:23
Hello... yeah... I think the next inlay I do will be that.
@unclebob8746 Good stuff I sorta felt that was what I should do!
Thanks for the video Todd well done. I have done two different inlays with the new inlay toolpath the only problem i have had is a little chipping i had to fix but the software definitely does its job well. I have not done the end grain technique yet but looks like that would be a better way to do it.
Hey Rodney! Thanks for that... the end grain idea is on my list!!!!
V12 is a good update, I am happy to have make the upgrade. The automation for inlay vcarve is very good.
Thanks for that!!!
1) great update, I've wanted No Go Zones for a while
2)what tape do you use?
Hello and thanks for the comment!!! Keep-Out Zones are GREAT!!! The tape is called - "EVERBUILD DOUBLE-SIDED CLOTH CARPET TAPE MESH CLEAR 25M X 50MM"
That’s an indefensibly clean workshop.
We do a bit of a tidy before each video... but if the camera was to turn around... look out... LOL.
Fantastic video. Answered a ton of questions
Thank you!
looks very good where do you buy the 60 degree 0.25 inch v bits I just searched it but can't find any v bits of 60 degrees 0.25 inch
Hello and thanks for the question. The .25" refers to the "shank diameter" not the cutters diameter. So something like this would work - global.toolstoday.com/v-13336-rc-1148tt.html To be transparent there are lots suppliers that offer this type of cutter (with or without a fixed cutting surface) so this is just an example. Hope it helps.
Excellent video, thank you very much!
Just a question, when I want to create inlays with this function, I'd like to use my 12.4° bit to be able to make thinner details, but the software doesn't show it to me. I can't use it. Do you know why?
Thank you for your time!
Hello Pierre... in the VCarve inlay toolpath we only allow V-Bits... not tapered endmills. Unfortunately we need to do this so that we can guarantee a perfect result. You can still use the old method for that sort of bit if you like.
Looks like a great improvement.
Thank you!
Well hosted and produced! The process is compelling
Thanks for that!!!!
Nice video, thanks! Suggestion for anyone doing this: Purple Heart always looks great when it's first cut, but turns brown after a while, due to UV exposure. Cherry does the same. Just something to keep in mind when designing inlays, as they can "disappear" into darker woods.
Hello and thanks for leaving that!!! This sort of stuff is always good to know. Thanks again for sharing!
If the inlay is not in a cutting board, consider using finishes that have a high UV inhibitor, poly finishes first instance.
Great video - thanks! Would this work with the tapered ball nose bits that are seen with the higher detailed inlays? Like Broin woods boards? He uses the tapered ball nose verses v bits. Thanks!
The new VCarve tool path does not allow you to use a tapered ball nose… I tried. You have to do it the old way to use a tapered ball nose
Hello and thanks for the question. You can do inlays with a tapered ballnose, but you won't be able to use the new VCarve Inlay toolpath.
What tape are you using the hold that down?
This is the tape we use - www.screwfix.com/p/everbuild-double-sided-cloth-carpet-tape-mesh-clear-25m-x-50mm/440fr
What double-sided tape do you recommend, and what v bite did you use? Can you add a link to watch the other video?
Hello we use "Everbuild DOUBLE-SIDED CLOTH CARPET TAPE MESH CLEAR 25M X 50MM", it was a 60 degree vbit and the link to the other video is - th-cam.com/video/zui8vL_SmVk/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps...
Thanks for the video, I think I spotted an error in your calculations, please correct me if I'm wrong. When you were setting up the depth to remove the top of the plug you increased the 0.66 to 0.7. Didn't that take the bit into the serving board and that was why you had to resurface it later?
Hey Tom... I believe I also changed the material thickness of the plug material to .7, so that I would not go too deep. I'm not sure what happened... it may have been some dust under my zero plate, or the material shifted a bit.
Great video but I have two suggestion. Run your V- bit before your clearance bit. When done that way you will not get the chipping. When surfacing the plug use a piece of paper to offset your zero. If you do that it should be nice and flush that way you don't get the step like you got.
Hello Doug... Yes you are correct, a lot of users would run the v-bit first. I was going to mention that, but in the past I have, and I have gotten comments like yours but saying the opposite... LOL. I think knowing you can do it either way is very valuable and the user can pick the option they like better. I have a feeling my material moved or flexed a bit... but anyhow... in the end it work out lovely... :) Again thanks for the comments!
Sweet! I have tried the old way with mixed success. This new tool is amazing. My first test using the parameters you noted here, seems a little loose, like its not seated all the way?? Is there a way to make the pocket deeper or the plug shallower? I must be missing something simple or obvious.. But the nI am missing it 🙂 🙂Now I need to work with the sheets function, which I have not done before.
Tanks again, Doug.
Hello Doug... Hummm... the loose fit seems odd. I wonder if you have a fuzzy plug, or not enough of a glue gap with an uneven surface. It is hard to troubleshoot in a coment here. As for your other question... bu ajusting your glue gap and surface gap you can control how deep your plug will go in. Definitaly mess around with the numbers and a few test pieces, untill you find the right setting for your set-up, materials, and CNC.
@@vectric Thanks. Is it safe to assume that making the clue gap larger gives the plug more room to sit deeper?
@@vectric Success! Tried different setting and a 60 degree bit. Still need to play with the glue gap.. but all in all happy. How do i send a picture of the successful project?
Thank you Sir. great stuff
Your Welcome!
Hi Tod, I'm waiting, and always hungry to learn new tip and tricks. How about a double sided modeling video, thanks for your continued support.
So good to hear!!!!
Any reason not to use a 1 inch surfacing bit instead of the 1/4" end mill to remove the plugs?
Hello and thanks for the question. Short answer... I could have :) I was just not all that confident in using the surfacing bit, and was worried it might cause more chipping... but I could be wrong. If I had more then on kick at making this I probably would have given it a try to save time.
Hi, do you have any recommendations for double sided tape in the US?
Hello... sorry I don't... what we use here in the UK is... "EVERBUILD DOUBLE-SIDED CLOTH CARPET TAPE MESH CLEAR 25M X 50MM"
A little off topic but how do I get one of those Vectric hoodies ? That would be awesome if I could somehow get one?
Hello... sorry we don't have a store where you can purchase Vectric merch.
@vectric my birthday is coming up... I wouldn't turn down it as a early present 😉
You should consider setting up a store to sell Vectric merch….
How is double-sided tape torn off？
It just peels off.
Where is the bar in the upper left corner in version 10?
Hello and thanks for the question. Not sure what you are referring to, do you have a time stamp in the video so I can see?
Chipping is always an issue when trying to inlay long grain pieces. If you take the time to create end grain blanks, you will virtually eliminate this issue.
Thanks for that!!! I have never given that a go... but it is now on my list!!!
I really like vcarve pro abd also your developpement from year to year!
There is unfortunately only one downside:
No macOS support
That is very sad
Otherwise cool video!
Started inlays in 2019 but now it is easier, cool
Hello and thanks for the coment. We have heard from some users that a Mac version would be nice... so you never know where the future might take us, but for now we do have some users that run our software under Parallels. Thanks or the lovely comment, and I will pass it onto the Development team!
@@vectric big thx for your answer.
Yes I am using it with vmware fusion already for a few yesrs but it isn‘t that elegant ;-)
@@vectric I run the software using Parallels. However, a Mac native version would be a great improvement.
Good Morning
Welcome... hope you find this helpful!!
Great video but there is still no instruction on how to fix error message cheers.
Thanks for the coment. I did mention why the error happens and if so you have the chance to "Cancel" and ajust the pocket depth. In really detailed inlays you may not be able to not get the error, seeing as there my not be any flat tops of the plug to allow for a glue gap. Also some useres really are not fussed about the lack of glue gap. We just show a warning so you have an opertunity to make a change befor you calculate all the tooling. Hope that helps...
Every video I watch and follow along with, always puts my plug and pocket on top of each other on the same board. Nobody shows how to create separate boards for each one and mine always creates 2 toolpaths, one on top of the other. Never works and I can't figure it out.
Hello... I do point out that you should create the 2 sheets you need for the pocket and plug. If you do this ahead of time you will see in the VCarve Inlay Toolpah and option to pick the "Plug Destination Sheet", choose the sheet you would like your "Plug" vectors to be placed.
Enable/disable Bitmap - ver.10.5
Thanks for clarifying. That button is not available in v10.5, you will need to hide the Bitmap Layer from the Layers tab.
you are the "go ahead" guy aren't you?
That is me... :) I am trying to curb it... but it's hard... bear with me.
Your shop is too clean
LOL... thanks... that is not always the way!