In the Labs with Todd | Making a Catch-all Tray | Vectric FREE CNC Projects
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.พ. 2020
- I have a routine of putting my wallet and car keys in the same place every time I get home, so I never, well mostly, misplace them. You can make this leather inspired catch-all tray with your CNC using Vectric’s Moulding Toolpath strategy, two tools, and a scrap of an old countertop.
As always this project can be personalized with the addition of a standard VCarve cutter. The finished tray would be perfect as a wedding, birthday, or a “just because” gift.
FREE project files here: www.vectric.com/vectric-commu...
#Vectric #FreeCNCProjects #CNCProjects #CNC #IntheLabs #Aspire #VCarve #VectricCNCProject #Catch-all #Tray #Upcycle #Repurpose #Woodworking #catchalltray
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Thank u Todd, for your video and for the free file.
Thanks Rob!!!
Nice project!! Good video!!
Nice job, thanks Todd.
Thanks for your kind comment!
Thank you Todd
You are very welcome. Glad yo liked it! ~Todd
I love the look of this! And your explanation was excellent. Thanks Rob.
Thank you!
Great informative video. Very easy to follow and showing the toolpaths on the cnc was great.
I like it...its a bit different than the norm.
this is great, Todd!
Todd: Great video and project. I’m working with a piece of padauk that is 1.959 inches thick and 11.125 square. I got the toolpaths right for side 1 (bowl), but am having problems with getting side 2 measurements correct. I would like to increase the overall length and width to use more of my material (padauk is pricy), and, as you suggested make the rail curve more gentle and not so steep. Walls and bottom of .25 inch. I think I’ve watched all the vids on mounding toolpaths and 2-sided marching.... In my model, I used a .375” EM as the first roughing tool, then a .25” EM next and reduced cut time by 3 hours. I have a Legacy Maverick 3x5 with ATC (tool changes not an issue). Thank you in advance for any guidance you can provide.
nice job
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Todd, really like this project and plan on making one for a gift. To reduce the amount of hair I will pull out doing this project can you go over what changes that need to be made for a different thickness of material on the drive rails? I'm pretty sure I don't have a 1.535" thick piece laying around. :-) I have the top drive rail figured out, but do I need to adjust the bottom drive rail? I'm aware of the changes needed for the pocket, profile and text. Thanx
Hello Jeff... good question and it might be a bit of a challenge to answer it here, but let's give it a try... :)
In the file on the top/front, you will see a cross-section I used for the molding toolpath, and next to in on the left, you will see a faded one that I used (and is located on the back/bottom of the part). When I originally designed the dish shape, these 2 vectors were the ones I used to make sure my wall thickness stayed consistent, or as I wanted it to. If you copy the one on the back to the front, you can adjust these and make sure the wall thickness, again, is what you expect. I would select both and size them to be the proper height; this is your material thickness, then reshape them, so the wall thickness is correct.
I would pay particular attention to the bottom of the shapes. If it is to go wrong, this is where it most likely will happen. Make sure there is enough thickness to make a nice bottom of the tray. Once you are happy, move the outside vector, the one on the left to the bottom side... and work that molding toolpath and see what you get.
I hope that helps a bit. Please let us know how you get along with the project.
Why cut it from the middle of that big board??
You didn't show the cut out tool path. The file download says it starts at 0.0 and goes z +.05 - why when the molding tool path has already cut down? seem it should start at the bottom of the molding tool path and cut the final .25 plus .05 - right?
Hey, what was your machining time for this project. mines basically saying i should the month off from work. so i don't think my speeds and feeds are anywhere near where they should be. curious what you had your tapered and mills set for.
Hello... thanks for the comment. Nope, you definitely shouldn't need to take a month off... :) I needed to slow it down a bit, seeing as, after my first attempt, I realized the wood was super hard. So in the end... 5:45hr ish. Ok, before anyone chimes in and mentions that is a long time, I do understand that, but it was worth it in the end. The finished part is very nice and it truly a beautiful, functional object. If I was to cut it again... I would definitely use a material that was easier to cut and make it a bit shallower with steeper walls.
You do not need to use a tapered ball nose endmill for this part, it just happened to be what I had nearby. I would actually suggest you take the idea of this project and rework it to use a standard ball nose endmill that is rather large. You would cut machining time, and if you took the time to develop a nice cross-section to use in your molding toolpath, the end result would be fantastic. Of course, in saying that, you need to be sure you take into consideration the material you are cutting into, the cutters you choose and your CNC. Preview all of your toolings and make sure it looks right before sending it to your CNC.
Hi Todd, this a neat project. Did you make any adjustments in the file to accomplish your “lessons learned”? Thx.
Hello Mocarver. Thanks for the comment! Yes, I made all the changes required if you choose to cut it at the same size I did. I would highly suggest, like all of our projects, to adjust all the tooling to fit your CNC, material on hand and tools you plan to use. Like I mentioned in the video next time I would use thinner material and angle the sides out more. That would take a redesign of the files but would give a better finish and take less time to cut. I hope that helps.
@@CNCminiProjects how thin would you make the second one?
@@acerjuglans383 The material I used was 1.53", I believe so I would probably edit it to be 1" or 1.25" thick. This would allow me to use a shorter cutter and would take out or lessen any tool deflection. Also, it would take less time to cut... :)
Awesome thanks. As a complete novice, I was wondering what is the accuracy one can achieve on a mass production doing this process? Meaning if I set specific sizes with the cnc, how accurate will be let's say the actual inside pocket compared to the settings? Because I have 200 ceramic dishes (rectangle shape) and I would like to have 200 trays made and then put the dishes inside the trays (I'd like them to fit as precise as possible without leaving to much of a gap). Would you say too much variation occurs among the trays causing some dishes to fit and some don't?
Hello Spaghetti... thanks for the comment and the question! To be fair it depends on a couple of things. First, most of the variation will come from the cutter (not being the size you expect or not sharp), the quality of your CNC (this is a big one when it come to repatebility) and the material you are cutting. When it comes to the software you need to be sure you have the proper feeds and speeds that are suitable for your CNC and the material, and be sure you have taken into account the proper tool size and allounces you need to add for viariations in your ceramic. Assuing each dish is exactly the same size and your tooling is correct... then the only thing in question is the CNC. Hope that helps...
@@vectric It does! Thanks a lot!
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Hi Todd I am new to cnc.I downloaded and cut this tray.Came out great.How can I reduce the size for a smaller tray?Thanks.
Hello Charlie... thanks for the question and comment! First off... welcome to the world of CNC!!! Exciting times for you. As for changing the size... well that is a bit tricky. Seeing as when I designed it I took into account a lot of things. So what I would suggest is to goto your job setup form and change the size of your job... but be sure to tick the "Design Scaling" box. This will ensure everything gets scaled properly then I would have a very close look at the tooling/reculate and then priview it. Be sure it looks OK... if not be sure to correct it. Like I mentioned this one is a bit tricky but would be worth having a go... :) ~Todd
Nice! I don't see the files over in the collection.
Hey Craig, the files for this free project are available here: www.vectric.com/vectric-community/free-projects/in-the-labs/CatchallTray. Have a great day.
@@vectric Thank you! Although I was logged in, I had to reload the page twice before the link showed up. Thank you again!
Great Video! I have a question, I am in US, and i cannot find the 15.3 Degree tapered ball nose. I tried to substitute a 30 degree v bit and it doesnt quite clear is as nicely in the 3D view as yours'. What can i do?
Hello and thank you for the comment and the question. Great idea using the v-bit... I might try a small ballnose... like a 1/8th or 1/16th for the finishing pass.
@@vectric thanks. I looked into it further and the genius of the file creation ( molding toolpath, which dictates the angles, not the bit) allowed me to simply use a 1/4” straight ball nose and it turned out flawlessly.
Good evening I have this project half done. The inside cut perfect. The flip went well the the cut for the clearing is doing something odd and I did not have 4 hours to watch it so had to stop. When it is doing the outer edge cut it goes all the way around one way lowers and reverses, it only lowers .05 and it is going to take 40 passes to get to the bottom. It also slowed the feed way down. I wish I could share a photo. I came in and watched the tool path on the computer and it does the same. I do not see anyway to change this to cut more off or speed it up. Thank you for this project has been a challenge to do and I learned the molding toolpath.
Tim
Hello Tim... thanks for the comment and it would be good for the support team to have a look at your file. If you think that would be helpful please contact them at - Support@Vectric.com I also would like to see the file. :)
@@vectric It is done found the problem I had selected Machine flat regions. Took that off and it was much faster. Making a second one for a friend.
Good to hear!! Thanks for letting us know!
Nice vid, very simple and basic for a novice like me ... a query, you used the 'Harrington' font, i've been trying to download this font onto my iPad, any ideas ???
Hello, and thank you for the nice comment bout the project! Hummm... I'm not too sure how to get that font onto your iPad... that may requre a bit of help from Google... ;)
@@vectric cheers ... i have subscribed
Hi Todd did you noticed your CNC mill on the table have no spindle?
Hey Jan... too funny... No, I did not, it normally has a Dremel tool as a spindle but it looks like someone borrowed it... :)
Your material setup shows flipping the material top to bottom, but your dowel hole layout requires flipping side to side (which is also what you do in the video). Am I missing something here?
Hello Steve... you are correct. It just happens that our X and Y are switched on our CNC. So for us in the software top to bottom is left to right on the machine.
Are the files still available for this? I can't find them!🤫
Hi there, you can find them here: www.vectric.com/vectric-community/free-projects/in-the-labs/CatchallTray hope this helps. Thanks!
the noise after a cut in your film makes me going crazy. Why do you add it although if your machine starts moving and you have the sound added, that sound hears like a mini machine crash. At the beginning i thought it was the brake of yout z-axis 😂😂🤣🤣
***Update***
Never mind, I figured it out! Sorry!
Don't cha just hate newbies?!?!? :(
BTW, I just gotta ask about the end mill. You specified a .235" end mill. I'm surprised such an odd size exists! Is there some flexibility in that? Or is there a specific reason for using it? I'd just like to be sure before I ruin tat large a piece of hardwood.
Hello Russell... well to be fair that should have been a .25" Endmill... but whn I measured it it was a bit small then the size on the tin... :) You can relpace it with a .25" endmill (be sure to recalculate the toolpath) if you like... just be sure to priview the tooling just to be sure it look right.
@@vectric Oh, I see! I was just viewing another video that suggested the same thing when tight tolerances are involved. Thank you so much! I appreciate what you are doing. I'm learning A LOT!
Excuse a poor Yank who has limited cnc bits. Can I substitute my SAE (still very small diameter) ball nose bit for the one listed? Of course, I would recalculate all for the bit that I have. Also, could you give a small, easily comprehended description of how the moulding side of the tray were entered? I do not understand the procedure to determine the moulding toolpath, and watching the educational files don't seem to help this stupid man (me,) Thanks.
Sorry Todd, I was looking a different vid.
No problem Bill.
Terrível ingleses usarem pol. Ao invés de mm . Fahrenheit invés de ceusus. Em pleno século 21
Olá e obrigado pelo comentário. Nós retrocedemos entre as medidas métricas e imperiais. Fazemos isso porque temos clientes em todo o mundo e nem todos compartilhamos as mesmas unidades. Espero que você entenda.
---------------------- English - Google Transulated Above ------------------
Hello and thanks for the comment. We do go back in forth between metric and imperial measures. We do this because we have customers all over the world and we don't all share the same units. Hope you understand.
Hi, your router has very low performance, at least try to command it with linuxcnc please