@@PennYankeeWoodworks I made it for a really good friend of mine. I would normally charge in the $500 - $600 range for a simple sign that size, but this one I charged $300. I kept it cheap for my friend, especially since I didn't have to finish it in any way.
@Two Elm Builds thank you for raking the time to make such an important video for us hobbyists that can't/don't need to afford a full size cnc router. Best regards.
The guide lines are very helpful, especially when you're new to CNC or tiling,, but just a tip, you can just use the array tool to repeat the guide holes 3 times at 20" apart if you're short on time
Awesome videos. You always explain things in clear language and don't click 25 clicks ahead of us. Basically you look and talk like me, LOL. I'm doing this today and this video will make it work. Thanks
Thank you for explaining what I needed to do with 3 tiles and adding 2 guide lines instead of 1 this helped a bunch. By using just one guide line it didn't work out for the 3 tile
new and slightly intimidated with the whole process of CNC. Thankyou so much for your wisdom and knowledge , presented in a truly masterful way. liked and subscribed
Thanks Ryan! Very clear and concise. I'm going to be making a few "welcome" signs. After seeing this video on tiling, it has given me the confidence to give it go.
Oh wow, what a breathe of fresh air. Really succinct and to the point, and very good explanations. Thank you, I was trying to work out how to do this today. Many painful videos later, I still didn’t have a method. And my workarounds failed. Thank you from your new subscriber. Very much appreciated.
@@twoelmbuilds I'm on Carveco Maker since that's what they are bundling with Onefinity's machines these days. I come from the nerd background so hammering out the software isn't too bad. It's all that safe woodworker wisdom that I'm trying to find!
@@abstrusejay (???)Hi abtrusejay! I haven't received my Forman Elite YET!! (Ordered Oct 4th 2024)But I also have bundled software from 1F (Carveco Maker+) and am little nervous about it, but your statement gives me confidence. More people are on Vectric here on YT. Here is my question: Should I go ahead and activate it and start practicing? I'm asking for your opinion about the software too. This was a VERY GOOD video twoelmbuilds! Thanks for sharing the gravy!!
@@jamescarter3883 A Forman Elite! You lucky duck! That's actually exactly what I did. I think I was maybe 2 weeks away from having my machine delivered and just got the software installed. That is something I would recommend. Get comfortable, break it, mess up, go again. Also Maker+ has lots of cool features you will want to do some trial and error with. I upgraded to Maker+ a month ago and love the extra bells and whistles. Mostly the auto nesting. Hope your machine arrives soon!
Great tutorial, and easy to follow, Thank you. Just one observation, it looks as though the sign text isn't sitting square to the material, It might just be an illusion, but It's worth checking, unless of course the sign has already been done and delivered.
Great video. Such a simple and clear explanation with the shop time really made this the complete package. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this and help out us newbies. God Bless.
Great video, I like your presentation style. With regard to tiling, I think I would have used two registration holes along the x axis and then had the program cut the next two holes for indexing. Unless I a missing a trick, how would you guarantee alignment with one hole since the material could rotate?
Hey Pete! Thanks for watching. I think you could do two holes on the x axis if you wanted to. I have a grid system on my wasteboard so I lined up the sign with the grid. If your sign is not square you may need to get creative with ways to keep it aligned. I have seen people use a guide down one side and dowels down the other.
This is the first time I've seen how to really manipulate the guide line feature in Vectric. Thanks. In regards to drilling with the CNC, I just bought an Amana 1/4" carbide drill bit meant specifically for CNC use. Maximum spindle speed setting is 8000 rpm's. I used to use a 1/4" upcut endmill, which works, but the drill bit is much better for dowel locations.
This is going to be such a huge help when my CNC arrives. Thanks for posting this. Two questions: 1, Can you reuse the 1/2' holes on the spoliboard should you need to make another sign of a different size that requires tiling? I'm thinking something you can build into your spoilboard; maybe a bolt with the head cut off that threads into the spoilboard? Just thinking out loud; I have no idea how that would work over time, or if it would even be necessary based on the volume of large signs or projects I'd do. Something to explore later on for sure though. 2, I know you put 2 coats of shellac on before the oramask. Do you do the same to the carved areas once the CNC work is finished? I know it's to prevent the paint from bleeding into the wood grain by the carve for sharper lines, I'm just wondering if it's needed for the bare wood carved area. Thanks again!
Hey! Thank you for watching 👍 As far as re using the holes, I think that it would be done but it you would need to be making the same size project to keep it from getting too complicated for alignment. I would probably just make a new hole and fill it with something later if having a hole bothers you? To answer the second question, the client was doing the painting and dye the sign himself so I didn't want to mess with it. If I were going to do the painting myself, I would definitely use shellac to prevent any paint from bleeding through under the oramask through the exposed grain. In the long run, it can't hurt anything to use shellac.
@@twoelmbuilds About having to make the same size projects, that's what made me think of using headless bolts as registration pins; have threaded inserts set at maybe 2" or 3" intervals on the right side of the wasteboard, then use the ones needed depending on the project size. But yeah, just thinking out loud there again. Just making a new hole is definitely the simpler option. I figured as much with the shellac. I was curious since some of the first projects I do on my CNC will be signs with painted inlays. Thanks again!
@@NWGR If you add a treaded insert for registration holes, I would get some pvc/vinyl bolts instead of metal ones. Last thing you want to do is have a mistake in your tool path and break a bit when it hits a metal bolt. 👍
Great video. Everything about it is not only comprehensive but pleasant to watch. I am using a live edge slab to create a lodge sign. Any ideas for applying your tutorial to a board with an uneven edge? What would I do to compensate for the variables? Would appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks for watching 👍 I would mount the slab to a piece of plywood that is wider than the slab. Use the plywood as the straight edge and for making the alignment holes
Awesome video. I need to do this for some cabinet doors I’m making. I’ll need the outer profile cut to actually cut out the door. I would use tabs to secure the door to the rest of the board. Do you think your method of using the dowels would still work?
I did all the prep work for the sign before hand. This specific piece couldn't be flattened with the tiling set because of the oramask, but it could have been flattened before adding the oramask with a separate tiling set. I haven't done a flattening tiling before so I don't know how well it would go in practice.
Hi Ryan Great video and as always great detail. So am I correct in assuming that you need to make super sure that you align the board when you move to the second and third tile? I am referring to the fact that the work piece is able to rotate around the dowel so you need to make sure that the edge of the sign is parallel to the y axis (helps to have a tight grid on your waste board I imagine). I realise that this is a sign and not a rocket but I was wondering if a more precise method for critical applications would have been to use two dowels one on either side in order to avoid rotation of your work piece? That is probably overkill. I have a bad habit of overthinking things. I was thinking more about a 2.5D with straight lines in it over a 5 foot distance. I am always surprised how the eye can pick up incongruences over long distances. Just curious about your thoughts on this.
Yes! You are right. The one thing I really missed in the video is that I have a few blocks locked down to the spoilboard on the opposite side for alignment. You can see them in the video but I just missed the opportunity to cover that in the video. You really do need something along the opposite side to prevent it from swinging around the dowel. Thanks for asking about it! I will have to cover that in another video down the road. Thanks for watching 👍
@@twoelmbuilds Thanks for clarifying, I was curious about this as well, but figured out while watching that something to keep it straight should be used to maintain alignment.
Thanks! Good question! I have a few options for you, the best option is if you can cut the oval and sign together from one rectangle sheet, if you already have the oval cut you will just have to mount the oval squarely and securely onto a larger rectangle piece of sheet good and slide the sheet through. That will take a little more ingenuity on the design side but it can be done.
Fantastic tutorial! If I could I would give it multiple likes!!! One question. Between bit changes you need to use the touch probe and set the z of each bit, correct?
I could really use your help. I followed your instructions to the letter, but when I used tiling to cut out a Charcuterie board that's twice the length of my CNC on the Y axis. I've done 2 boards now using this method and both times the cutter on T2 starts almost an inch into the T1 cut and about a 32nd of an inch left. I've been able to save the boards because thankfully the customers didn't want them perfectly rectangle. So with a little sanding they came out very nice. But if I ever want to make a sign, that small deviation will not line up the letters properly. What am I doing wrong? Please help.
Without seeing exactly what is happening, I would have to guess that something is going wrong in one of two places. The overlap is off in the toolpath setup or something is off when the board is physically being moved through the Y axis. You may want to double check the placement of your guide holes, that could account for the inch difference.... Maybe. Hard to know exactly what is going wrong without seeing it in action.
When using the masking, can you put that over paint like I’m doing two colors? The background color is gonna be one thing and then the cut out letters are gonna be something else with the masking mess up the paint.
I have used it over enamel paint and milk paint in the past. It worked over the enamel but not the milk paint. It just pulled up the paint. I would assume it will do the same thing with latex paint. The best option, if feasible for your project, would be to first paint your project and then put a coat of polyurethane over the paint. That may prevent the paint from pulling up. I have seen people use extra wide frog tape over painted projects but it left a lot of frayed edges of tape. Not the best when you are planning to paint. Hope that helps!
Hello Ryan when you did the second and Third tiles how did you set XYZ for the next carve did you reset Z to zero to board for each bit change am assuming XY are still good TIA
Hi John, good question. The X and Y do not change since you are moving the board down into the XY position. However, you must zero the Z height to the workpiece surface for each bit change. Thanks for watching! 👍
Great content with excellent description of the process. however, I had trouble with the music soundtrack. I could hear you but the music became very.distracting.
You are correct. It just ensures that any v- bit that you use will finish the carve far enough for the vectors to be fully cut when you move the tile down.
Don't you need 3 alignment holes, one to locate each tile? Number 2 hole goes to the bottom (hole 1) cutting tile 2, what is the alignment for tile 3. Great video though, clear and concise.
Thanks for watching 👍 you will cut three holes. The first two holes for tile 1 and tile two are cut with the "first hole" toolpath. Then when you slide your workpiece down to cut tile two, that is when you add the guide hole for tile three by using "second hole" toolpath. It a little hard to think of it that way but the hole position for tile 3 slides down when you slide down the workpiece to start the cut for tile 2. Hope that makes sense.
I use davinci resolve most of the time for video editing. I have premiere pro also, but I am more comfortable with resolve. Also, I will use canva for B roll and other needed illustrations. As for cameras, I have a Canon M50 Mark ii and several different lenses. My wife does photography so I may borrow a camera or two from her from time to time. I will even use my cellphone for some shots. Lighting is mostly the led lights in my shop. I have a few mobile led lights on stands too, but it can be overkill for lighting sometimes. I am definitely in the learning stage for lighting. For audio, I have the Rodelink wireless mic system I use in the shop and love that setup. I have a review video for it here on my channel. When I do studio recording, I have a Blackmagic Atem mini extreme video switcher. Studio audio runs though a zoom podtrak p8 and for the studio mic, I have a few and don't like any of them (probably just the poor sound quality of my studio) . I have added links for you in this video description. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching 👍
Should the wood had been painted first? The client can easily paint the cut out area with the ora mask on but how does he paint the rest of the sign when he removes the ora mask?
Most situations yes, but the client was using cyanotype on the wood and that is a crazy chemical process. I did it the way he needed for his process, but in any other situation you want to paint the wood first, like you suggested.
It will work the same. The critical step is making sure that the size of your tiles are smaller than the size of your machines cutting area. The principles of moving through the tiles to carve them will remain the same.
Desafortunadamente, no soy un representante ni estoy asociado con Onefinity, pero tienen un sitio web. Intentaría contactarlos y ver si pueden enviarte a Colombia. Gracias por ver 👍
@@twoelmbuilds I use music from a young man in the UK: Jonny Easton. Check him out on youtube. Whatever you use keep it quiet. We want to hear YOU . Thanks again. Jim
@@strykerliker you are correct. the third tile didn't need a hole because it would already be lined up where it needs to be when I slide it down into place. the guide hole I drilled into the second tile falls into place and that does the trick to keep it aligned. it took me actually using the process once to ha e it completely sink in. You can do it! Just follow the steps and it will work out for you. 👍
Alignment holes 1 and 2 are cut while tile one is cut. When you move the piece down the 1st hole is off the table, 2nd hole lines up with the first in the spoilboard. But there is no hole in tile 3 which is now in tile 2's original position so you have to cut hole 2 again to place the peg.
Since this sign was being painted, it didn't matter. If you are in a situation where you can't have pegs, just make the size of the board a little taller and cut off the holes after it is all done being cut.
I completely agree. I apologize for the music. I have been very mindful of that in my newest videos and will work to improve. Thank you for your feedback, I really appreciate it! 👍
![Stacked Text in 10 Simple Steps with Vectric Vcarve Pro [Text-on-Text CNC Project]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Kaq0RGNACGA/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome video, great explanation and easy to follow. Keep up the great work!
Thank you! I appreciate it. 👍
@@twoelmbuildsmay I ask what you charged for this sign?
@@PennYankeeWoodworks I made it for a really good friend of mine. I would normally charge in the $500 - $600 range for a simple sign that size, but this one I charged $300. I kept it cheap for my friend, especially since I didn't have to finish it in any way.
ABSOLUTELY INCREDIBLE JOB showing how to tile. I do sub-contracting work for a local sign company, and this just opened new opportunities for me
Thank you! 👍
Best tutorial on tiling there is! Thanks for making it so easy!
Thanks! I appreciate that 👍 thanks for watching too.
@Two Elm Builds thank you for raking the time to make such an important video for us hobbyists that can't/don't need to afford a full size cnc router. Best regards.
Thank you so much for watching! I appreciate it 👍
Wow! Great explanation. You made it clear and to the point. No babbling... Thank you. I learned a lot.
Awesome! Glad I could help. Thank you for watching
The guide lines are very helpful, especially when you're new to CNC or tiling,, but just a tip, you can just use the array tool to repeat the guide holes 3 times at 20" apart if you're short on time
Awesome videos. You always explain things in clear language and don't click 25 clicks ahead of us. Basically you look and talk like me, LOL. I'm doing this today and this video will make it work. Thanks
I try to keep it easy! Thanks for the compliment and for watching! 👍
Thank you for explaining what I needed to do with 3 tiles and adding 2 guide lines instead of 1 this helped a bunch. By using just one guide line it didn't work out for the 3 tile
No problem! Thanks for watching 👍
new and slightly intimidated with the whole process of CNC. Thankyou so much for your wisdom and knowledge , presented in a truly masterful way. liked and subscribed
Thanks! Glad I can help you. Don't worry, once you get the hang of things, you will make some cool stuff! I appreciate you watching 👍
Thanks Ryan! Very clear and concise. I'm going to be making a few "welcome" signs. After seeing this video on tiling, it has given me the confidence to give it go.
You are "welcome"! You can do it! Thanks for watching 👍
Wish I had this video a year ago lol, still great and recommend it for anyone trying to learn how to tile!
Thank you for watching! I appreciate the great comment 👍
Oh wow, what a breathe of fresh air. Really succinct and to the point, and very good explanations. Thank you, I was trying to work out how to do this today. Many painful videos later, I still didn’t have a method. And my workarounds failed. Thank you from your new subscriber. Very much appreciated.
Glad I was able to help! Thanks for watching 👍
While I'm using different software, it's still great to see the logic behind the cuts and how to work around the machines limitations. Great video!
Thanks for watching! I hope it helps with your other software. What software are you using?
@@twoelmbuilds I'm on Carveco Maker since that's what they are bundling with Onefinity's machines these days. I come from the nerd background so hammering out the software isn't too bad. It's all that safe woodworker wisdom that I'm trying to find!
@@abstrusejay (???)Hi abtrusejay! I haven't received my Forman Elite YET!! (Ordered Oct 4th 2024)But I also have bundled software from 1F (Carveco Maker+) and am little nervous about it, but your statement gives me confidence. More people are on Vectric here on YT. Here is my question: Should I go ahead and activate it and start practicing? I'm asking for your opinion about the software too. This was a VERY GOOD video twoelmbuilds! Thanks for sharing the gravy!!
@@jamescarter3883 A Forman Elite! You lucky duck!
That's actually exactly what I did. I think I was maybe 2 weeks away from having my machine delivered and just got the software installed. That is something I would recommend. Get comfortable, break it, mess up, go again. Also Maker+ has lots of cool features you will want to do some trial and error with. I upgraded to Maker+ a month ago and love the extra bells and whistles. Mostly the auto nesting. Hope your machine arrives soon!
Excellent video. I really enjoyed the simplified explanation of the tiling process. I might actually try this.
Glad I could help! Give it a shot. It's not too hard to do. Thanks for watching! 👍
Great tutorial, and easy to follow, Thank you. Just one observation, it looks as though the sign text isn't sitting square to the material, It might just be an illusion, but It's worth checking, unless of course the sign has already been done and delivered.
Thanks for watching 👍 the sign was square so it must just be camera angles making it look off.
Awesome information thanks for doing a video on tiling I appreciate it now I see how its done thanks brother well appreciated...keep it up
Thank you! I appreciate that! 👍
Very nice tutorial. Well done . Thank you for sharing
Cheers
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the great video. I just had someone ask about making a larger sign and this answered all my questions.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching 👍
This was so awesome and detailed I love it gonna watch it a few times and get it right thanks !!!!!
Thanks for watching! 👍
Great video. Such a simple and clear explanation with the shop time really made this the complete package. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this and help out us newbies.
God Bless.
I am glad it helped you. Thanks for watching! I appreciate it. 👍
Appreciate this video! You may have just saved Christmas. 😂
Awesome! Merry Christmas! 🎅
Great video, I like your presentation style. With regard to tiling, I think I would have used two registration holes along the x axis and then had the program cut the next two holes for indexing. Unless I a missing a trick, how would you guarantee alignment with one hole since the material could rotate?
Hey Pete! Thanks for watching. I think you could do two holes on the x axis if you wanted to. I have a grid system on my wasteboard so I lined up the sign with the grid. If your sign is not square you may need to get creative with ways to keep it aligned. I have seen people use a guide down one side and dowels down the other.
Clamp a straight edge to the table. You need to make sure it's perfectly runs straight with your cnc y axis.
This is the first time I've seen how to really manipulate the guide line feature in Vectric. Thanks.
In regards to drilling with the CNC, I just bought an Amana 1/4" carbide drill bit meant specifically for CNC use. Maximum spindle speed setting is 8000 rpm's. I used to use a 1/4" upcut endmill, which works, but the drill bit is much better for dowel locations.
The drill bits are a great option! Thanks for sharing and for watching 👍
Thank you sir! I’m wondering if it would be easier and more simple for lining up if you did two guide holes 10 inches apart to guarantee alignment?
I haven't done that before, but I am sure it would work. I don't have any issues with this method and I like simple. 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
This is going to be such a huge help when my CNC arrives. Thanks for posting this.
Two questions:
1, Can you reuse the 1/2' holes on the spoliboard should you need to make another sign of a different size that requires tiling? I'm thinking something you can build into your spoilboard; maybe a bolt with the head cut off that threads into the spoilboard? Just thinking out loud; I have no idea how that would work over time, or if it would even be necessary based on the volume of large signs or projects I'd do. Something to explore later on for sure though.
2, I know you put 2 coats of shellac on before the oramask. Do you do the same to the carved areas once the CNC work is finished? I know it's to prevent the paint from bleeding into the wood grain by the carve for sharper lines, I'm just wondering if it's needed for the bare wood carved area.
Thanks again!
Hey! Thank you for watching 👍
As far as re using the holes, I think that it would be done but it you would need to be making the same size project to keep it from getting too complicated for alignment. I would probably just make a new hole and fill it with something later if having a hole bothers you?
To answer the second question, the client was doing the painting and dye the sign himself so I didn't want to mess with it. If I were going to do the painting myself, I would definitely use shellac to prevent any paint from bleeding through under the oramask through the exposed grain. In the long run, it can't hurt anything to use shellac.
@@twoelmbuilds About having to make the same size projects, that's what made me think of using headless bolts as registration pins; have threaded inserts set at maybe 2" or 3" intervals on the right side of the wasteboard, then use the ones needed depending on the project size. But yeah, just thinking out loud there again. Just making a new hole is definitely the simpler option.
I figured as much with the shellac. I was curious since some of the first projects I do on my CNC will be signs with painted inlays. Thanks again!
@@NWGR If you add a treaded insert for registration holes, I would get some pvc/vinyl bolts instead of metal ones. Last thing you want to do is have a mistake in your tool path and break a bit when it hits a metal bolt. 👍
Hi! Thank for the video.
Can you tell me how you make that great wood clamps?
Hey Maria! Thanks for watching. I just came up with a simple design and cut them out. I will put that on my list of videos to make 👍
Great video. Everything about it is not only comprehensive but pleasant to watch. I am using a live edge slab to create a lodge sign. Any ideas for applying your tutorial to a board with an uneven edge? What would I do to compensate for the variables? Would appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks for watching 👍 I would mount the slab to a piece of plywood that is wider than the slab. Use the plywood as the straight edge and for making the alignment holes
@@twoelmbuilds Thank you very much. Am off to try it!
@@cracchiolo let me know how it works out!
Great. Today I learned something new.thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching 👍
nice job splaining that, thank you. Lucy (me) has been wondering about how that works
Thanks! 👍
Awesome video. I need to do this for some cabinet doors I’m making. I’ll need the outer profile cut to actually cut out the door. I would use tabs to secure the door to the rest of the board. Do you think your method of using the dowels would still work?
Thanks for watching! It should work no problem. Just keep the dowels outside your profile cut. (if I understand what you are trying to do)
@@twoelmbuildsyes, sir. I think you have it correct. Thank you.
Great video!!
One question. Do you flatten the place with your cnc and if you do, would you tile the flattening tool path also?
I did all the prep work for the sign before hand. This specific piece couldn't be flattened with the tiling set because of the oramask, but it could have been flattened before adding the oramask with a separate tiling set. I haven't done a flattening tiling before so I don't know how well it would go in practice.
Nice work. Thanks for the tutorial.
Thank you! I appreciate you watching 👍
Hi Ryan Great video and as always great detail. So am I correct in assuming that you need to make super sure that you align the board when you move to the second and third tile? I am referring to the fact that the work piece is able to rotate around the dowel so you need to make sure that the edge of the sign is parallel to the y axis (helps to have a tight grid on your waste board I imagine). I realise that this is a sign and not a rocket but I was wondering if a more precise method for critical applications would have been to use two dowels one on either side in order to avoid rotation of your work piece? That is probably overkill. I have a bad habit of overthinking things. I was thinking more about a 2.5D with straight lines in it over a 5 foot distance. I am always surprised how the eye can pick up incongruences over long distances. Just curious about your thoughts on this.
Yes! You are right. The one thing I really missed in the video is that I have a few blocks locked down to the spoilboard on the opposite side for alignment. You can see them in the video but I just missed the opportunity to cover that in the video.
You really do need something along the opposite side to prevent it from swinging around the dowel. Thanks for asking about it! I will have to cover that in another video down the road. Thanks for watching 👍
Thanks Ryan, I see that now. Love your content and I am now a subscriber. Cheers John
@@twoelmbuilds Thanks for clarifying, I was curious about this as well, but figured out while watching that something to keep it straight should be used to maintain alignment.
Great video thanks for your time to create
Thanks for watching 👍
Awesome video, I just subscribed!
Thanks for watching!
Great video! However, I do have a question. How would I tile an oversized sign that is OVAL in shape?
Thanks! Good question! I have a few options for you, the best option is if you can cut the oval and sign together from one rectangle sheet, if you already have the oval cut you will just have to mount the oval squarely and securely onto a larger rectangle piece of sheet good and slide the sheet through. That will take a little more ingenuity on the design side but it can be done.
What’s the blue paper called that you apply to the top? I can’t quite hear what you called it.
Very informative, job well done!
Thanks for watching 👍
I just learned something new. thanks.
Thanks for watching! 👍
Fantastic tutorial! If I could I would give it multiple likes!!!
One question. Between bit changes you need to use the touch probe and set the z of each bit, correct?
Thank you! And yes, you do need to ptobe the Z with each bit change.
Very, Very Nice Job, Well Done. Thank You
Thank you! I appreciate you watching 👍
I could really use your help. I followed your instructions to the letter, but when I used tiling to cut out a Charcuterie board that's twice the length of my CNC on the Y axis. I've done 2 boards now using this method and both times the cutter on T2 starts almost an inch into the T1 cut and about a 32nd of an inch left. I've been able to save the boards because thankfully the customers didn't want them perfectly rectangle. So with a little sanding they came out very nice. But if I ever want to make a sign, that small deviation will not line up the letters properly. What am I doing wrong? Please help.
Without seeing exactly what is happening, I would have to guess that something is going wrong in one of two places. The overlap is off in the toolpath setup or something is off when the board is physically being moved through the Y axis. You may want to double check the placement of your guide holes, that could account for the inch difference.... Maybe. Hard to know exactly what is going wrong without seeing it in action.
You done a awesome job thank you so much for sharing
Thanks you! I appreciate you watching 👍
Great video!!! Congrats!
Thanks! I appreciate you watching
When using the masking, can you put that over paint like I’m doing two colors? The background color is gonna be one thing and then the cut out letters are gonna be something else with the masking mess up the paint.
I have used it over enamel paint and milk paint in the past. It worked over the enamel but not the milk paint. It just pulled up the paint. I would assume it will do the same thing with latex paint. The best option, if feasible for your project, would be to first paint your project and then put a coat of polyurethane over the paint. That may prevent the paint from pulling up. I have seen people use extra wide frog tape over painted projects but it left a lot of frayed edges of tape. Not the best when you are planning to paint. Hope that helps!
With those tool changes and reorientations of the workpiece it may have been instructive to show the rehoming.
You don't rehome at all after moving the piece or with tool changes. All you need to do is probe Z with each tool change.
Great stuff, thank you!
Awesome! I hope it helped. Thanks for watching 👍
Hello Ryan
when you did the second and Third tiles how did you set XYZ for the next carve
did you reset Z to zero to board for each bit change am assuming XY are still good
TIA
Hi John, good question. The X and Y do not change since you are moving the board down into the XY position. However, you must zero the Z height to the workpiece surface for each bit change. Thanks for watching! 👍
Great job!
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it 👍 keep making great machines!
Great content with excellent description of the process. however, I had trouble with the music soundtrack. I could hear you but the music became very.distracting.
I agree! I appreciate that feedback! Thanks for watching 👍
I subscribed so I can keep an eye on you! Lol
Great video!!!
Thanks Brad! I appreciate that 👍
Dose the 1/4 overlap effect the carve design-it just recaps the design by 1/4 right??
You are correct. It just ensures that any v- bit that you use will finish the carve far enough for the vectors to be fully cut when you move the tile down.
great video but PLEASE do everyone a favor and lose the music while you're talking
I agree, it quickly becomes very distracting.
I didn’t notice the music till you pointed it out! Haha. To each their own…
Don't you need 3 alignment holes, one to locate each tile? Number 2 hole goes to the bottom (hole 1) cutting tile 2, what is the alignment for tile 3. Great video though, clear and concise.
Thanks for watching 👍 you will cut three holes. The first two holes for tile 1 and tile two are cut with the "first hole" toolpath. Then when you slide your workpiece down to cut tile two, that is when you add the guide hole for tile three by using "second hole" toolpath. It a little hard to think of it that way but the hole position for tile 3 slides down when you slide down the workpiece to start the cut for tile 2. Hope that makes sense.
Great video. Thank you.
Thank you! I appreciate you watching 👍
What software and setup do you use for videos on the Tube? The links are posted for device etc but not for software for edit etc
I use davinci resolve most of the time for video editing. I have premiere pro also, but I am more comfortable with resolve. Also, I will use canva for B roll and other needed illustrations. As for cameras, I have a Canon M50 Mark ii and several different lenses. My wife does photography so I may borrow a camera or two from her from time to time. I will even use my cellphone for some shots. Lighting is mostly the led lights in my shop. I have a few mobile led lights on stands too, but it can be overkill for lighting sometimes. I am definitely in the learning stage for lighting. For audio, I have the Rodelink wireless mic system I use in the shop and love that setup. I have a review video for it here on my channel.
When I do studio recording, I have a Blackmagic Atem mini extreme video switcher. Studio audio runs though a zoom podtrak p8 and for the studio mic, I have a few and don't like any of them (probably just the poor sound quality of my studio) . I have added links for you in this video description. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching 👍
Should the wood had been painted first? The client can easily paint the cut out area with the ora mask on but how does he paint the rest of the sign when he removes the ora mask?
Most situations yes, but the client was using cyanotype on the wood and that is a crazy chemical process. I did it the way he needed for his process, but in any other situation you want to paint the wood first, like you suggested.
Anyone know if that’s basically the same process with the Shapeoko 5 pro 4x2? Not sure I have space for the xxl.
It will work the same. The critical step is making sure that the size of your tiles are smaller than the size of your machines cutting area. The principles of moving through the tiles to carve them will remain the same.
@@twoelmbuilds thank you!!
learned some stuff ty
Awesome! Thanks for watching 👍
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Desafortunadamente, no soy un representante ni estoy asociado con Onefinity, pero tienen un sitio web. Intentaría contactarlos y ver si pueden enviarte a Colombia. Gracias por ver 👍
Loved the video. Hated the music. Thanks very much though. Jim👍
Thanks for watching! I have been trying different music, thank you for the feed back! 👍
@@twoelmbuilds I use music from a young man in the UK: Jonny Easton. Check him out on youtube.
Whatever you use keep it quiet. We want to hear YOU . Thanks again. Jim
With a little careful planning I don't see why I cant do this in carbide create.
I am sure you could! Thanks for watching 👍
I guess I'm confused. Why cut the same hole for the 2nd alignment dowel? It was already cut out on the first toolpath? What am I not understanding?
Good question, there are three tiles so you need that hole for alignment of the 3rd tile.... if I am understanding your question.
@@twoelmbuilds but you never cut a hole out on the 3rd tile. I guess I need to watch that again and again.
@@strykerliker you are correct. the third tile didn't need a hole because it would already be lined up where it needs to be when I slide it down into place. the guide hole I drilled into the second tile falls into place and that does the trick to keep it aligned. it took me actually using the process once to ha e it completely sink in. You can do it! Just follow the steps and it will work out for you. 👍
Alignment holes 1 and 2 are cut while tile one is cut. When you move the piece down the 1st hole is off the table, 2nd hole lines up with the first in the spoilboard. But there is no hole in tile 3 which is now in tile 2's original position so you have to cut hole 2 again to place the peg.
I don't have too many customers that would be wild about the extra pegs in their sign. Seems like there ought to be a better way to do this.
Since this sign was being painted, it didn't matter. If you are in a situation where you can't have pegs, just make the size of the board a little taller and cut off the holes after it is all done being cut.
Thanks for the usefully information, But please don't bounce the mouse around. It is very distracting.
Thanks for watching and for the tip! 👍
I would love to watch your video, however the piano playing is taking away from me listening to you!
I completely agree. I apologize for the music. I have been very mindful of that in my newest videos and will work to improve. Thank you for your feedback, I really appreciate it! 👍