Thanks for the vr6 info. Nice to see a channel listen to requests from there viewers. I could come up from st austell soon with a vr6. That’s need a refresh.
Hey ,machinist here! I know that 2 flute endmill "works" but you will get less stress and easer chip removal, with an 4 or 6 tooth high helix endmill. Id also recommend you reduce you SFPM accordingly as the more teeth, the less tool rpms are needed. Your not hogging so deep flutes aren't needed.
I always put the wrist pin through the piston and place a piece of bar stock through it to clamp. The reason is the wrist pin is only splash lubed and any small defect will cause a hot spot and when they seize the piston rolls over and devastates every component in the engine, just how I prefer to do it. I figure anything that can be done to prevent any possible damage is worth the little extra effort. The other issue I frequently see is the skirt length being used as a datum surface, when the only real dimension on a piston that is non-critical is the skirt length, they should be parallel and dimensionally correct, but should be and reality are two different things. Verify everything and you don't need to question whether the manufacture was paying attention, in today's world of CNC machines, mistakes are all too common. The last Eagle crank I installed had a faint clicking sound when I turned it over and three skirts were just making contact with the counterweights, it turned out the radius on the counterweights we're not indexed correctly it would have piled that engine up if I didn't catch it. Just my random thoughts but I do enjoy watching the old school machining and hand built engines the expensive new machines are faster but with speed comes sloppy work in my opinion. Hope you all have a great day.
Paul's piece was excellent in detail and dialogue, with one criticism I've made before: It would be easier using a stand for the camera that not only allows you to work with both hands on the job, but keeps the image steady too. Otherwise it was compelling viewing.
Hi Lee, I tend to watch most of your video's on the channel but don't normally comment but I love all the attention to detail you put into the the stories about all the different engines that you are working on. I have been building Ford x/flow and Pinto engines for my own cars for about 35 years so yes I am always drawn to Ford rebuilds you often do, we seem to have a common friend who has been balancing engines and all my cylinder head work for me for a lot of years, yes his name is Charlie and his son Dean I'm shure you know who they are, anyway keep up the good work, I would love to call in one day when I am down your way for cup of tea with you. Regards to you and all the boys Dave Fletcher. 😄
On the pre-crossflow engine, I agree 100%.. never buy something that's "been done", and if you do coz the price was right, at least take it apart and verify everything. Case in point I bought a used engine last year out of a running vehicle that had been "overhauled", for peanuts, just TO take apart and recondition for another project. The deeper I went in the worse it got. Someone had been in there alright, original main & rod bearings completely worn out, but fresh(ish) piston rings installed upside down, gasket sealer everywhere, bore taper, it was a mess. I couldn't believe it was running decent before I took it apart. So that cost another $600 worth of parts and machining to put right.
Great content Lee. The MG engine looks very familiar in terms of paint finish and shoddy attention to detail. I had similar issues when specifying an engine for my post historic trials car - 1450 A-Series - came back an absolute dogs dinner…
My guess is that engine with the caps mixed up was an owner assembly. I've worked on lots of VW and Audi engines I'm yet to do a VR6, I would weld up a side mount for the stand if it were me, that timing cover looks like a pain on the stand. If I was just doing timing chains I drop them onto a steel table with wheels out of the car, so I do them on the table. The valve in the block can cause issues, the VW/Audi 2l turbo engines around 2012-2018 have them and they cause oil pressure issues, same as balance shafts and cam bridges, then the 1.8l T doesn't have the valve. Thanks from Canberra Australia.
You can measure the exact depth by placing a height gauge in the pocket and touch with the mill the upper side of the height gauge. This way you know the exact depth which could allow you to leave a witness area within the pocket when you tilt the mill slightly as suggested
I was taught to use a punch to mark each rod and cap so we would center punch each rod and cap before engine was stripped to save confusion I wasn't keen on the idea of using a hammer to punch each rod and cap whilst it was connected to the crank though at the time
Regarding the tight engine> i ran into a similar problem back in the 1970's with a pre crossflow short motor that had been bored etc etc. It would lock up as soon as the head was torqued down. Prior to the engine being rebuilt,it had been seized and the block was actually twisted. Some thing the machinist hadn't considered.
I once accidentally fitted the wrong caps to the wrong rods on a set made by Arrow Precision. Fortunately, I noticed before I put the sump on, but the real stand out point was that the rods had been made so consistently that it didn't make any difference to the big end housing sizes. That impressed me.
I had to buy a rebuilt Pinto for a capri many moons ago and although a bit tight it bedded in fine. Why having bought it as a fresh new build would I have had a different company to strip in and check it at more cost to myself having never even ran it? Seems a bit odd?
years ago rebuilt reconditioned cortina engine from a company .Couldn't spin the engine over without a great deal of effort .Same thing mismatched end caps in the wrong bores as well Not all reconditioners employ skilled people it appears 🙂
Why would you restamp the bigend caps upon removal if already stamped? Can see the benefit of initial permanent marker to confirm removed location and also help identify the previous mismatched error, but now stamped again with a different number could cause confusion in future unless removed
As far as I can see, cap 3 was on rod 4 and vice versa but rod 4 was in cylinder 3 and vice versa so matching the right cap to the right rod and the right rod to the right cylinder should sort things out. Maybe.
For the vr6, has it ever been suggested to stress relieve thesr plastic tensioners by warming them up in a medium warm oil bath for a couple of hours ? Have you looked at the crack surfaces of failed tensioners?
Great content, nice to see whats going on with all the engines you work on. But for my part, as a Cossie guy, i sometimes want to have a look at an older video of some machining on a Cosworth engine. But its quite hard to find old videos, as its not possible to find for example Cosworth as a keyword in the search section, as the title or description of the video does not includes which enginetype thats being work on in the episode. Could you be so kind to include enginetype as keyword in the description, for example on the last line of the description you add the one or more enginetype the episode includes? Should be an easy job when its posted. And you will definitely get more views also, as your videos will be searchable for users all around the world, thats on TH-cam and just types an enginetype in the searchfield. People that have not seen a single one of your videos before. Just a tip. The titles of the episodes looks more like tabloid clickbait titles to be completely honest. And for us thats following you, it actually is a bit irritating. Because when for example the push notifications comes up on our phone, and its not the best time to look at the video, you see the title of the video, and you have absolutely no clue of what this video is about. Because its just like a tabloid heading, a real clickbait kind of thing. Sorry, its absolutely not my intention to come off harsh, but you would be much better off with more accurate headings on the videos, than all this clickbait, customer complaints, depth collectors etc. Thats not what we love about this channel, its the enginework that you show ;) Its great content with the enginework, machining and all the enginecontent, and its much appriciated that you use so much of your time to shoot these videos, sharing all of this information regarding enginebuilding, machining etc. And i love that you post so much Cosworth related content :) Keep it up! And for the ones like myself, that want to look at videos more than one time, please write in the description which enginetype thats in the video, so that its possible to find later :)
I´ve and a friends bought engines from a Mr. Eamon Sword Lotus Club. One TC 1968 has had no oil seal in the sump - find out when the car was ready for road, oil goes to the street. Another engine für pounds 15 000 .-- with steel crank has had 4 different pistons from different companies in it. The engine need then a total refurnishment from another engine builder for pounds 12000.-- . Another TC engines has a rusty crank in it, oil comes out. Lucky when a Lotus Elan ist ready vor road and one find these problems! No engine builder repaired the engines he build. These people form Lotus Club are deceiver! What a luck that you show how you build engines in a serios way.....
This is great knowledge to be putting out. In my Doomsday prepping mind set with the eminent take over to EV, I have been seriously considering buying a second/spare engine for my mk7.5 fiesta. But after this video, I think it would be best to just get a full rebuild when the time comes. (That's if there's still a supply of parts for years to come) Just out of my own interest, what do you think your industry will look like in 10 years? Personally if it was up to me I'd ditch EV and keep the combustion engine. But then I wouldn't be very popular.. lol..
With ANY New/rebuilt engine the FIRST 20--30sec are the MOST CRITICAL in the ENTIRE LIFE of the Engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! a rebuilt engine probably has to turn over quite a few times before it will start, oil pressure probably is Not up at that stage, so NEW TIGHT pistons/rings etc with little or No lube NOT GOOD, personally IF i was rebuilding an engine ALL moving parts would get assembly lube!!!!!!!!!!! For the first 500km just a basic cheap oil nothing too fancy ( you have too allow an engine to bed in before using the good stuff, after running in oil change every year regardless 10km or 2000 CHANGE the oil!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Many years ago my friend, a warmed over 1600 B series ( don,t laugh it surprised me!! ) it was rebuilt, he helped someone towed a car, ruined the B series!!!!!!!!! My father was very highly qualified mechanic, ( 14 or more qualifications!!!!!!!!!! ) plus my own experience 55yrs of motoring, DO NOT SKIMP on maintenance doing so will BITE you on the ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I like the vr6 layout and concept, the internals work, I just don't care for VAG's plastic & electronic garbage festooning absolutely everything external to it.. The first thing I do is rip all that trash out and put in my own engine management, manifolds etc
Always good to watch you boys at work but trying to watch a video while the camera is being waved about leaves me feeling quite ill, just a small moan sorry guys lol, was also hoping you could enlighten us to the overspray on the cam in the Lotus motor last week
No disrespect to you or your employees expertise or capabilities, but at 2:56 when assembling the crankshaft main caps, there is what appears to be potentially a lot of contamination on the sleeves of the gentleman which potentially could get into the engine or worse into the bearings as they are installed. What is done to mitigate the possibility of this happening??
I cringed when I saw that cap screw shank had been ground down, please stick it in the lathe next time and turn it down. It may not matter but it just simply not a good look.
@@Graham_Langley Well yeah taking a step back you are correct in fixing the issue and whatever you happen to do don’t do it by methods that look unprofessional.
i didn't have time to build an engine for a race, so i bought a crate engine from a "pro-shop", i don't know if they thought i didn't know anything about engines are their just some cheats. long story short the engine guts didn't have what was advertised and priced to be. it would be more time and money than it worth taking action. seems like some of these so-called pro-shops take advantage of the fact that they can get away with fails advertisement of engine parts.
Cosworth and their heads...let me tell you about their crummy system for the infamous Triumph Dolomite Sprint 16 valve 4 pot engine of the 70s. Talk about a grenade, if they werent torqued up in correct order they would just overheat and warp and were a fiddly POS that was fawned over by the motoring press but in reality were a pretty poor piece of engineering. I should know having had not one, not two but three engines self destruct under not very heavy work loads. Give me a fabulous and reliable design like the Toyota 3S-GTE engine anyday.
They whole problem with your position and warranty comebacks is because 60% of the engines you rebuild were junk when they were new, 50.000kl engines. You can put lipstick on a pig but it won't stay on for long. I feel bad for you. Some of those engines need to be re engineered before rebuild.
you need to get out of that habit never put your hand near a moving cutter i know you will say the camera made it look nearer but just dont do it at all full stop we dont want you hurt
![Engine Break-In Myths Dispelled | Engine Break-In Tips And Tricks [GOLD WEBINAR]](/img/n.gif)
Paul has become quite comfortable in "front" of the camera. Well done.
The humble mechanic channel has a very comprehensive video on rebuilding a VR6 for those who want more intricate detail.
Thanks for the vr6 info.
Nice to see a channel listen to requests from there viewers.
I could come up from st austell soon with a vr6. That’s need a refresh.
Hey ,machinist here! I know that 2 flute endmill "works" but you will get less stress and easer chip removal, with an 4 or 6 tooth high helix endmill.
Id also recommend you reduce you SFPM accordingly as the more teeth, the less tool rpms are needed. Your not hogging so deep flutes aren't needed.
Good old Finer Fred - fine upstanding fella.
I always put the wrist pin through the piston and place a piece of bar stock through it to clamp. The reason is the wrist pin is only splash lubed and any small defect will cause a hot spot and when they seize the piston rolls over and devastates every component in the engine, just how I prefer to do it. I figure anything that can be done to prevent any possible damage is worth the little extra effort. The other issue I frequently see is the skirt length being used as a datum surface, when the only real dimension on a piston that is non-critical is the skirt length, they should be parallel and dimensionally correct, but should be and reality are two different things. Verify everything and you don't need to question whether the manufacture was paying attention, in today's world of CNC machines, mistakes are all too common. The last Eagle crank I installed had a faint clicking sound when I turned it over and three skirts were just making contact with the counterweights, it turned out the radius on the counterweights we're not indexed correctly it would have piled that engine up if I didn't catch it. Just my random thoughts but I do enjoy watching the old school machining and hand built engines the expensive new machines are faster but with speed comes sloppy work in my opinion. Hope you all have a great day.
Paul's piece was excellent in detail and dialogue, with one criticism I've made before: It would be easier using a stand for the camera that not only allows you to work with both hands on the job, but keeps the image steady too.
Otherwise it was compelling viewing.
Hi Lee, I tend to watch most of your video's on the channel but don't normally comment but I love all the attention to detail you put into the the stories about all the different engines that you are working on.
I have been building Ford x/flow and Pinto engines for my own cars for about 35 years so yes I am always drawn to Ford rebuilds you often do, we seem to have a common friend who has been balancing engines and all my cylinder head work for me for a lot of years, yes his name is Charlie and his son Dean I'm shure you know who they are, anyway keep up the good work, I would love to call in one day when I am down your way for cup of tea with you.
Regards to you and all the boys
Dave Fletcher. 😄
More video I see more like this workshop!
Well done!
Awesome engines I've never seen a V6 like it before, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
Great save on the Pre Crossflow Lotus engine 👍👍👍
Some lovely work there guys👍👍👍👍
On the pre-crossflow engine, I agree 100%.. never buy something that's "been done", and if you do coz the price was right, at least take it apart and verify everything. Case in point I bought a used engine last year out of a running vehicle that had been "overhauled", for peanuts, just TO take apart and recondition for another project. The deeper I went in the worse it got. Someone had been in there alright, original main & rod bearings completely worn out, but fresh(ish) piston rings installed upside down, gasket sealer everywhere, bore taper, it was a mess. I couldn't believe it was running decent before I took it apart. So that cost another $600 worth of parts and machining to put right.
Great content Lee. The MG engine looks very familiar in terms of paint finish and shoddy attention to detail. I had similar issues when specifying an engine for my post historic trials car - 1450 A-Series - came back an absolute dogs dinner…
You guys do an amazing job.Fascinating to watch.
Thankyou mate
My guess is that engine with the caps mixed up was an owner assembly.
I've worked on lots of VW and Audi engines I'm yet to do a VR6, I would weld up a side mount for the stand if it were me, that timing cover looks like a pain on the stand. If I was just doing timing chains I drop them onto a steel table with wheels out of the car, so I do them on the table. The valve in the block can cause issues, the VW/Audi 2l turbo engines around 2012-2018 have them and they cause oil pressure issues, same as balance shafts and cam bridges, then the 1.8l T doesn't have the valve.
Thanks from Canberra Australia.
Love your jig for milling the piston tops!
At least I know where to come if my mk3 VR6 ever needs a engine rebuild 😊👍
You can measure the exact depth by placing a height gauge in the pocket and touch with the mill the upper side of the height gauge. This way you know the exact depth which could allow you to leave a witness area within the pocket when you tilt the mill slightly as suggested
That piston of Bob Dove’s looks like it’s got a socking great crack across the top.
putting the old rod in the wrong hole,, that can become expensive,, :)
I was taught to use a punch to mark each rod and cap so we would center punch each rod and cap before engine was stripped to save confusion I wasn't keen on the idea of using a hammer to punch each rod and cap whilst it was connected to the crank though at the time
That mistake is the type I would make as I know nothing about engines with more than one cylinder. Thanks for sharing your findings. 👍
Regarding the tight engine> i ran into a similar problem back in the 1970's with a pre crossflow short motor that had been bored etc etc. It would lock up as soon as the head was torqued down. Prior to the engine being rebuilt,it had been seized and the block was actually twisted. Some thing the machinist hadn't considered.
I once accidentally fitted the wrong caps to the wrong rods on a set made by Arrow Precision. Fortunately, I noticed before I put the sump on, but the real stand out point was that the rods had been made so consistently that it didn't make any difference to the big end housing sizes. That impressed me.
I had to buy a rebuilt Pinto for a capri many moons ago and although a bit tight it bedded in fine. Why having bought it as a fresh new build would I have had a different company to strip in and check it at more cost to myself having never even ran it? Seems a bit odd?
years ago rebuilt reconditioned cortina engine from a company .Couldn't spin the engine over without a great deal of effort .Same thing mismatched end caps in the wrong bores as well Not all reconditioners employ skilled people it appears 🙂
Why would you restamp the bigend caps upon removal if already stamped? Can see the benefit of initial permanent marker to confirm removed location and also help identify the previous mismatched error, but now stamped again with a different number could cause confusion in future unless removed
As far as I can see, cap 3 was on rod 4 and vice versa but rod 4 was in cylinder 3 and vice versa so matching the right cap to the right rod and the right rod to the right cylinder should sort things out. Maybe.
Surprised crank even turned with caps mixed up
For the vr6, has it ever been suggested to stress relieve thesr plastic tensioners by warming them up in a medium warm oil bath for a couple of hours ? Have you looked at the crack surfaces of failed tensioners?
Hi could you make me some tooling like yours for fitting pistons? Engine builder/tuner that tort me had something similar.
If the V6 engine is an ultra narrow V configuration does that mean the ignition firing points are different on each respective side???
vr6 engine , there is a blanking flange on the rear of the engine with a gear inside, would you know what it was for ?
Wrist pins looked pretty tight too😬
Great content, nice to see whats going on with all the engines you work on.
But for my part, as a Cossie guy, i sometimes want to have a look at an older video of some machining on a Cosworth engine.
But its quite hard to find old videos, as its not possible to find for example Cosworth as a keyword in the search section, as the title or description of the video does not includes which enginetype thats being work on in the episode.
Could you be so kind to include enginetype as keyword in the description, for example on the last line of the description you add the one or more enginetype the episode includes?
Should be an easy job when its posted.
And you will definitely get more views also, as your videos will be searchable for users all around the world, thats on TH-cam and just types an enginetype in the searchfield. People that have not seen a single one of your videos before. Just a tip.
The titles of the episodes looks more like tabloid clickbait titles to be completely honest.
And for us thats following you, it actually is a bit irritating. Because when for example the push notifications comes up on our phone, and its not the best time to look at the video, you see the title of the video, and you have absolutely no clue of what this video is about.
Because its just like a tabloid heading, a real clickbait kind of thing.
Sorry, its absolutely not my intention to come off harsh, but you would be much better off with more accurate headings on the videos, than all this clickbait, customer complaints, depth collectors etc.
Thats not what we love about this channel, its the enginework that you show ;)
Its great content with the enginework, machining and all the enginecontent, and its much appriciated that you use so much of your time to shoot these videos, sharing all of this information regarding enginebuilding, machining etc.
And i love that you post so much Cosworth related content :)
Keep it up!
And for the ones like myself, that want to look at videos more than one time, please write in the description which enginetype thats in the video, so that its possible to find later :)
I´ve and a friends bought engines from a Mr. Eamon Sword Lotus Club. One TC 1968 has had no oil seal in the sump - find out when the car was ready for road, oil goes to the street.
Another engine für pounds 15 000 .-- with steel crank has had 4 different pistons from different companies in it. The engine need then a total refurnishment from another engine builder for pounds 12000.-- . Another TC engines has a rusty crank in it, oil comes out. Lucky when a Lotus Elan ist ready vor road and one find these problems! No engine builder repaired the engines he build.
These people form Lotus Club are deceiver! What a luck that you show how you build engines in a serios way.....
to be fair , I think “ALL BEEN DONE” refers to the owner of the engine
This is great knowledge to be putting out. In my Doomsday prepping mind set with the eminent take over to EV, I have been seriously considering buying a second/spare engine for my mk7.5 fiesta. But after this video, I think it would be best to just get a full rebuild when the time comes. (That's if there's still a supply of parts for years to come)
Just out of my own interest, what do you think your industry will look like in 10 years?
Personally if it was up to me I'd ditch EV and keep the combustion engine. But then I wouldn't be very popular.. lol..
Scary, I'd use forged pistons otherwise your looking at localized hot spots.
You guys need to get a tripod so you can use two hands to put stuff together.
With ANY New/rebuilt engine the FIRST 20--30sec are the MOST CRITICAL in the ENTIRE LIFE of the Engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! a rebuilt engine probably has to turn over quite a few times before it will start, oil pressure probably is Not up at that stage, so NEW TIGHT pistons/rings etc with little or No lube NOT GOOD, personally IF i was rebuilding an engine ALL moving parts would get assembly lube!!!!!!!!!!! For the first 500km just a basic cheap oil nothing too fancy ( you have too allow an engine to bed in before using the good stuff, after running in oil change every year regardless 10km or 2000 CHANGE the oil!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Many years ago my friend, a warmed over 1600 B series ( don,t laugh it surprised me!! ) it was rebuilt, he helped someone towed a car, ruined the B series!!!!!!!!!
My father was very highly qualified mechanic, ( 14 or more qualifications!!!!!!!!!! ) plus my own experience 55yrs of motoring, DO NOT SKIMP on maintenance doing so will BITE you on the ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
First thing taught , never ever screw up rods and caps!
The engine might have been machined by a company but assembled by a guy in his garage hence the wrong caps were fitted .
I like the vr6 layout and concept, the internals work, I just don't care for VAG's plastic & electronic garbage festooning absolutely everything external to it.. The first thing I do is rip all that trash out and put in my own engine management, manifolds etc
Always good to watch you boys at work but trying to watch a video while the camera is being waved about leaves me feeling quite ill, just a small moan sorry guys lol, was also hoping you could enlighten us to the overspray on the cam in the Lotus motor last week
No disrespect to you or your employees expertise or capabilities, but at 2:56 when assembling the crankshaft main caps, there is what appears to be potentially a lot of contamination on the sleeves of the gentleman which potentially could get into the engine or worse into the bearings as they are installed. What is done to mitigate the possibility of this happening??
@@MattyEngland show us all how it’s done then Matty 🤷♀️
@@MattyEngland I’m not Lee 🤷♀️
@@MattyEngland hahaha
A vintage car friend will only do work himself, so often has he found assembly faults not dissimilar to this by people known as “experts!”
Hee hee... one shop gets the YTS lad to build the engine, and another shop gets theirs to fix it !
Nah... only messing !
I cringed when I saw that cap screw shank had been ground down, please stick it in the lathe next time and turn it down. It may not matter but it just simply not a good look.
Fix the thing that's wrong, don't modify things to allow for it.
@@Graham_Langley
Well yeah taking a step back you are correct in fixing the issue and whatever you happen to do don’t do it by methods that look unprofessional.
👍
That happens when you don't finish the task and go to lunch and come back and get in a hurry.
Actually I think it was done by Mickey Mouse mechanics.
i didn't have time to build an engine for a race, so i bought a crate engine from a "pro-shop", i don't know if they thought i didn't know anything about engines are their just some cheats. long story short the engine guts didn't have what was advertised and priced to be. it would be more time and money than it worth taking action. seems like some of these so-called pro-shops take advantage of the fact that they can get away with fails advertisement of engine parts.
Yep would have damaged the engine and then said it was you what done it.
Cosworth and their heads...let me tell you about their crummy system for the infamous Triumph Dolomite Sprint 16 valve 4 pot engine of the 70s.
Talk about a grenade, if they werent torqued up in correct order they would just overheat and warp and were a fiddly POS that was fawned over by the motoring press but in reality were a pretty poor piece of engineering. I should know having had not one, not two but three engines self destruct under not very heavy work loads. Give me a fabulous and reliable design like the Toyota 3S-GTE engine anyday.
It's not tolerances, it's clearances.
They whole problem with your position and warranty comebacks is because 60% of the engines you rebuild were junk when they were new, 50.000kl engines. You can put lipstick on a pig but it won't stay on for long. I feel bad for you. Some of those engines need to be re engineered before rebuild.
That’s absolutely shocking. Truly shambolic level of quality.
you need to get out of that habit never put your hand near a moving cutter i know you will say the camera made it look nearer but just dont do it at all full stop we dont want you hurt
This channel should be the Karen Channel. This guy has failures of some sort EVERY video. And it's NEVER his fault!
@@MattyEngland Did we ever get a follow-up on the Renault V6?
I would watch this channel but the faces on thumb nails are so annoying I just have to not watch in protest.
Some people have no understanding of their own limitations! Far out!