How to Fix Common LPG Problems - Vaporiser / Reducer, Injectors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I show fixing an LPG vaporiser and talk about other common faults and fixes for car LPG injection systems. LPG systems for cars are great at swing money, but do need some maintenance. In the ten years of maintaining this car it has been mainly the injectors and vaporiser/reducer that has needed fixes or improvements. Please take care not to release large amount of Lpg gas. Work outdoors, don't smoke! The LPG system should have cut out solenoid valves at the tank and before and after the vaporiser, which means that when the ignition is off the gas supply will be isolated at all sections of the system. Check that this is the case. If you do that it is safe enough to work on. It is however your responsibility and no liability for damage is accepted for any advice implied from watching this.
The omvl service kit shown in the video can be bought here (generic search for OMVL LPG service kits) from ebay UK: ebay.us/sAjcp4
A really useful addition for keeping an eye on how well your engine is staying in tune (Lpg mixture often drifts off) is an air:fuel ratio meter gauge fitted in the car. This connects to your existing lambda (oxygen) sensor. This is one I recommend on:
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My engine was running rich on LPG and because on gasoline it worked like a clock, I concluded that there was something wrong with the LPG system.
II thought the vaporiser might have been leaking the gas into the intake, but after replacing the vaporiser's main rubber membrane today i see no improvements; coincidentally, the old membrane doesn't look cracked whatsoever, so I don't think that was the problem.
There was also this pronounced clacking noise of the LPG injectors (only when I switch to LPG from gasoline; sounds a bit like tractor) maybe the o-rings are worn, as you said in the video; they are a bit harder to reach to, than the reducer was, so it's going to be a bit harder to do in situ, but not prohibitively difficult. But logically that shouldn't be the reason for running rich - the ECU should adjust the injector's opening time according to the air flow rate, at least that's what is going on when functioning on gasoline... These LPG injectors inject the gas into the intake manifold, bypassing the gasoline injectors altogether, right? Then it shouldn't be much different as compared to the gasoline injectors...
I also have to confess that I haven't changed the LPG filters and don't know for how long they haven't been replaced (I bought this car used), and in the worst case scenario records show that it has been done 5 years and 15,000 km ago. Maybe I should just change the filters and it would solve the problem...?
Maybe it's an LPG correction factor calibration issue? I guess I can tinker with the LPG's ECU parameters - there are videos on youtube how to do that. I downloaded the software; not sure how to use it with my cheap bluetooth OBD-II dongle, though...
It becomes a bit of a parts cannon situation: so far I replaced ignition coils and spark plugs, intake air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor with contact cleaner, cleaned the gasoline injectors with special liquid that you put into the tank before refilling it, but now I realize that this was stupid as the LPG injectors and gasoline injectors are completely independent... And the local LPG shops aren't helping, just doing a parts cannon trick but with a 10x markup, obviously. It's actually on their pitch I replaced the ignition coils and spark plugs, although I knew that it wasn't the issue, but I trusted them. Turns out, I should not have. That's why I'm doing it all myself now.
PS: worth noting that the car is staying parked all the time, using it once a week for short trips. Gummed up injectors likely then?
PPS: Opel (Vauxhall) Agila B 2010 with factory installed LPG system from Landi Renzo (core parts like ECU and vaporiser; but some parts like fuel tank are from some other manufacturer, don't remember the name)
The clattering of the injectors is not good and needs fixing by an o ring/service kit if possible for your type of injectors or change the injectors to new ones. If they are clattering then they are probably bouncing a lot and may be letting more gas in. They can also clog up with wax from the LPG stream. I ran a hot cooolant pipe under my injectors to help keep any wax fluid which seemed to help stop gumming up.
The frequent problem with lpg is it often goes off-tune/ out of calibration. I found I needed to do fuel modifications in the LPG ECU more frequently than I wanted to do. I think due to injector aging changes.
There is a degree of fuelling adaptation that the petrol ECU does to get the fuelling right (based on lamda/O2 seasor readings) as the LPG is slaved off the petrol ECU, so the petrol ECU still has an effect wether running on petrol or LPG, but it can only adapt so much up to a certain limit.. At least that is the case on the OMVL setup. If you run half the time on LPG the fuel adaptation by the petrol ECU will never be spot on for either fuel as it tries to get it right for one fuel then the other. That only means sometimes it is not tuned for max power.
Your best bet is, DIY, as you suggest. Change or service the injectors. Get the LPG ECU software and hardware cable interface to talk to it and modify the fueling level based on a monitor that you put on the O2/lamda sensor - put a guage in the car and tune the LPG ECU for correct air/fuel ratio on the gauge when driving.
@@comeinhandynow ok if it has to come down to recalibrating the correction factors, I'll just skip touching the injectors altogether then. Even they are gummed up a bit I'll just adjust the correction factors a bit more than if they were clean, and it should work, right...? I mean, I'll try to make the O2 sensor happy, I won't just pull some correction factors out of thin air and purport them as appropriate to my particular level of gummed-upness.
At this stage it's necessary to understand if it's even worth continuing to try to make it work, so I'll try to ignore the clacking of the injectors even if it isn't good in the long-term perspective.
If recalibration helps, then I might consider cleaning the injectors and re-calibrating again if necessary...
It's very thoughtful of you to go to all the trouble to demo AND answer comments. :-)
Just a wee low-tech suggestion to help with reinstalling the spring body:
How about snugging up a large tiewrap around the whole vap assembly (diagonally) to hold the cap in place as if there are no screws BEFORE removing them?
Then push it aside till you're ready to reinstall the 'bell'.
When reassembling, squeeze the cap on and swing the tiewrap back over the ass'y to hold it in place. Cut it off after tightening the screws to satisfaction. Use 2 tiewraps if necessary.
Good suggestion, thanks for contributing.
Got some useful information from your video .Thanks!
One suggestion I would make is to avoid washing up liquid to leak test, as I was told it quite often contains salt to thicken it (which could cause corrision) . I was told at my gas safe course that if no proprietory leak test fluid or spray was available to use a mix made from a bar of hand soap and water..
Thanks, that is interesting. I am not too worried about it as the volume of liquid in the bubbles is probably very low, so the amount of salt very low.
Sir, A method I developed to replace the cap on the diaphragm makes the task considerably easier. After installing the new diaphragm with super glue I loosely screw in two long threaded studs into two of the opposing mounting holes for the cap.
Then I slide the cap over the two studs followed with a nut on each stud. This allows me to alternately tighten each nut, thus easily compressing the springs and setting the cap into position. Once seated, the other mounting screws can be installed and tighten. At this time, the studs have completed their job and can be removed by double nutting the studs and backing them out. Replace the remaining screws into the holes that retained the studs and tighten accordingly. Done and it's tea time.
Thanks for the tip
Am using lovato and this very type, I they all consume more lpg than even petrol, I I've gone to expect for more services but it still consume more
rerouted the water pipe under the injectors now ,very useful tips thankyou
Great, thanks.
I'm wondering if a ratcheting wood clamp would help with holding down the springs on the reducer. Nice Video! Very helpful information. Thanks!
Thanks.
Another very common failure point is those plastic fittings for the coolant. They're garbage! They get hot, become brittle, and crack resulting in a coolant weep that your untrained mechanic might see and think your entire converter is starting to collapse, assuming you don't investigate it yourself and end up with a pipe in hand and coolant all over everything else...
For what it's worth, you can probably pick up a set of solid brass replacement fittings for 10-15 quid, then it's just a matter of checking / replacing o rings on them every 10-15 years.
It sure beats the ticking time bomb of the fitting snapping completely, potentially freezing the converter, and or dumping your coolant on the road and cooking the engine 👍
Great video in any case
Thanks and thanks for the input.
@@comeinhandynow no worries mate 👍
It happened with me on my tartarini vapour injection system on my old rig. Fitted in 2007, failed in 2018.
As mentioned, my mechanic thought my converter was rooted but closer inspection showed the real culprit.
Got the fittings from a near by LPG fitter, got home tried to gently turn the fitting slightly to inspect the leak and retainer a bit better and half of it just broke off right there and then leaving me no choice but to grab a screwdriver and replacing them myself.
Few people realize that most of this plastic crap has a sturdier alternative for a few extra quid, but hey, if my comment here saves a single person from such a needless and preventable failure, I've at least made someone's day a little easier.
I had a LPG in my 2,5 liter Subaru, it used to start to stutter at traffic lights.
I fitted a K&N fliter and it went away as if by magic!
I have had 3 different Taxis with LPG, my S-Class had Dutch LPG system Vialle, good but prone to pump problems.
I now have a Mercedes Viano with Prins LPG and it is super, way ahead of Vialle, but all have been on K&N filters and I cannot recomend them enough for LPG use, the air just gets in better/quicker for better ignition!
PS, in extreme heat the gas tank might not let you fill up, a quick panic a few days ago but as soon as the weather changed there were no more problems, I have used LPG for 17 years!
Pain in butt sometimes but saves a lot of money over those years especially as diesel is now through the roof!
How much is LPG/l now? Not sure I would have it again due to 2x servicing and retuning needed. The tank valves can get sticky and stick full meaning you can’t refill them. Needs the tank dismantling, not for the faint hearted. I would have thought a new normal filter is nearly as good as a K&N but it depends how your lpg is tuned on it’s A/F -air/fuel ratio. If tuned rich it will like more air.
that's true. mainly because k&n are there for show, they're not filtering as much as OEM filters. so you'll get "performance" at the cost of durability
Absolutely excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to do that Robert. I’ve just bought an LPG converted car, and it has a leak somewhere which I’m going to check, and I will certainly check all the areas you’ve shown. 👍
Thanks, glad it was useful.
Thumbs up, thousand times what are the safety measures of handling LPG injectors when you are replacing them with the new ones? I have a Van 2011 Toyota hiace?
If the engine is off, so is the lpg gas connection so no safety issues. There is a solenoid at the tank and at the vapouriser that isolates the gas.
If you have cold weather start issue,, apply heat to the lpg injector,, I use a heat gun,, on my 07 komatsu 30 lpg,,,if you have a no start issue check the lpg injector,, pull out , plug back up,,ground ,,turn on key should vibrate
Thanks for your input. I had 8 injectors as like most systems nowadays it is a multi point sequential system. The point about warming them up though is still a good one, they can get clogged with wax. I ran a hot copper pipe from the engine coolant system under each bank of injectors to keep them wax free by making them hotter all the time..
We have two solenoid gas valves. One right on the tank at rear of vehicle , the other is on the vapouriser or the firewall a short distance away . I mounted fittings so I can refill camping cylinders from the automotive onboard LPG supply. To refasten pipe (it's a foot long copper pipe from firewall to vaporiser which I modified ) I applied synthetic oil to the threads , not much. The car wasn't an easy starter afterwards for a spell , then it became a better starter than previously . .Now I'm musing about uncoupling eight feet further advanced at tank end and seeing what happens after spraying in carburetor cleaner into the pipe , then recoupl ling again. The eight foot length would bathe components with carburetor cleaner solution for say five minutes of idling . Also given thought to placing the rubber rejuvenation compounds instead of carburetor cleaner . I've only thought about it though, that's all .
Really, good video. My Lpg has packed up and I noticed a load of gas coming out the vacuum pipe on the vaporiser, when I ran the engine with pipe disconnected it was firing it out. So I'm confident after watching that video that my rubber diaphragm is buggered. Thanks a lot
Cheers. Best of luck fixing yours.
Great video! I've got a 2015 Commodore LPG, and my fuel usage has gone up significantly ~18-21l/100KM for city driving, compared to ~12-14l/100km any idea why? it has full log book service history, mechanics always say cant find anything wrong with it when they service it,. but unsure how thorough or if at all they went over the LPG system
Thanks. One of the things I found with my lpg system is that it needed frequent retuning by modification of the parameters in the lpg ecu. Probably as the injectors change over time, they do gum up and get slower and bits need changing. You can only do this retune if you have the software and hardware cable for your particular system. It is possible to do DIY, needs some research on the web. Otherwise go to an lpg installer who has the s/w & h/w for your system and ask for a service and retune. Another alternative is to try changing the lpg injectors for new ones or strip and service them with a service kit.
Hello mate very nice video. I have one question. I have just installed LPG on my car. Do I need to install an additional lubricating kit to lubricate the engine valve? some told me it is important while th LPG installer told me its not. its just a waste of money and it does not do much since the engine oil is already lubricating the engine valve. kindly advise. thanks
Hi, Thanks. I have heard of those systems but never installed one on my car after weighing up the pros and cons and I saw no sign that the valves were damaged when I dismantled my engine. I had more problems with the head gasket burning through, possibly from detonation but also possible because lpg runs a bit hotter. If the head gasket ever needs changing it is worth using the best quality high performance metal ones if possible.
I tried to fasten the hoses a little bit and found out that even the engine was off, there is pressured gas in the pipes.
How do I lock the gas system for the gas to remain inside the tank, for servicing the system?
There are usually solenoids at the tank that isolate the tanks when the engine is off. However a small amount of gas pressure remains in the pipes and filters. You just have to let this leak out when dismantling. Do it outside in fresh air! And don’t smoke!
What’s , in your opinion, the other main common causes of erratic idling on an LPG engine. All filters,air and lpg fliters changed,haven’t checked vaporiser yet for leaks , but I will thanks to your vid.👍🏻
Apart from bad injectors, do you have any other suggestions as to bad idling some days and not other days ? Does the PCV valve play a huge part in idling problems and can it be erratic?Tia
@@royb2251 Vapouriser leaks in the rubber diaphragm or clogged up /waxed up injectors were my main problems along with it just needed constant mixture /tuning adjustment via the ecu s/w
I Am using I10 2009 model it is running extremely good in lpg but when I switch it to petrol engine start missing ans get off then when I run the car for around 20-30 KM it gets normal.
Hi, great video. My car is running well on LPG, however the vaporiser is leaking coolant and gas, not from the diaphragm. I want to just swap the whole vaporiser for a new one, same make and model. Will the system need to be recalibrated do you think?
Thanks. It would probably be better with an ECU retune afterwards, but try it and see. Or try and work out where and how it is leaking, it might be fixable.
Really useful. Found all the parts I needed from Intella Parts
Thanks.
amazing video mate, i bought a dual fuel AU and for some reason when driving on LPG the car seems to drop revs when crusing off the trottle and when getting on the trottle again it seems to bog down for a second and then goes. sometimes it would start on LPG and die, But starting on petrol and switching to LPG working fine but only sometimes. Runs on petrol perfectly though, Do you reckon it's clogged injectors and filters?
Could well be. The thing I found with LPG is that it often needs retuning, via the ECU parameters for rich/lean at different engine map positions. Having the LPG ECU software and hardware interface is needed for that. Not impossible or that difficult but needs some research. Cleaning the injectors and often renewing the vapiouriser diaphragn also seemed to be regularly needed.
I have an 2005 GMC truck, used to be Schann's food delivery, made a flatbed,, has 2 100 gallon LPG tanks, starts great from a cold start, but when it warms, and you turn it off , it tries
to start , does not run, sometimes fuel starter helps, not anymore, so I left it overnight, came back, started and ran good, made it to shop, where would I find info on this? thanks
excellent informative video ,i have a ford explorer and it has rough idle on lpg but as soon as i give it some throttle it smooths out ,a couple of the injectors are making quite a loud clicking noise so i will strip them down at the weekend ,thanks for hopefully saving me some money
Thanks for the comments. Loud clicking injectors are usually those tiny rubber o rings around the bottom of the injector tubes that have become flattened. I hope you got it sorted.
thank you very much for the detailed explanations and for responding to all our questions!!!
Thanks
Hey just a quick update on my car ,I fitted my vaporizer and calibrated it no problem with the software ,I turned the gas off in the LPG tank and disconnected the solenoid plug too ,cars running perfect thanks for the help 👍
Great to hear.
Hi great stuff. So what exactly did you do. My V8 2002 landy2 is having similar symptoms. Beeping sound then cuts off and stalls when I turn to LPG but fine on petrol
Hey bud, I'm scouring the net for assistance and advice. I have just bought a Jaguar 3.2 V8 XJ8 that was LPG converted in 2007. It has the Romana system fit, and I've owned the car for a week. Two issues that I have noticed - 1. The car takes a long while to use its power to set off. For example, at a roundabout, the car is awfully slow to set off. This problem does not happen on petrol. 2. At minimum, I should be getting 110miles from a full tank (42.4L) however the gauge flashes for a top up around 55miles. Today, I have managed to achieve 80miles with no flashing, but I am still in the red.
I am planning to give this a service, as I do not know where to begin. Where should I start?
Hopefully this video gives you a few things to look at. Generally a thorough service would be new lpg filters, new vapouriser diaphragm, new injector internals via a service kit, if serviceable type, or new injectors if not and then a retune of the lpg ecu. you should try and get the PC software and cable to communicate with the lpg ecu. It’s all possible DIY.
Super helpful normally remplace all vaporaiser is expensive thanks
Wow my car indeed runs rich on lpg (on gasoline fine). I will order this kit
Is there a cutoff valve that one needs to actuate before intervening on the membrane???
@@SuperMixedd
There is a cut off valve on the tank and one near the vapouriser normally, these turn off when the engine is stopped.
@@comeinhandynow ok thank you very much, i thought as much...
Hello sir, this is excellent thanks for sharing this video, please could make video where to turn off the lpg supply from the lpg tank many thanks
Thanks. There is a solenoid on the tank so it is turned off when not being used/powered up.
Hi guys. I have problem with my BMW E60 with prins lpg. Only on standstill on lpg is like misfiring on petrol no problem. Checked everything which i can so i’ll be thankful if you guide me to find the problem. New headgasket, new spark plug, new hoses, new lpg filters, new membrane on reductor, new lpg bottle … Thank you!
I would dismantle and carefully check/reassemble every connection on the vapouriser. I had a very similar slight misfire that turned out to be a bit too much ptfe tape blocking a pipe connection on the vapouriser. Can’t remember which pipe. Other thing that makes a surprising difference is triple cored 10mm race type ignition leads.
I have a v70 with an LPGtech system fitted. I believe that gas is entering my coolant system as when I'm running petrol I don't get a problem. When in gas I get a low level warning for one and when I take the cap off get loads of hissing and you can smell fuel. Also I get loads of steam out the exhaust when in LPG. Yes the head gasket is fine and all the rest of it. Just wondered if the vaporiser can leak gas into the coolant system.. It's a good video.
Ryan
It is not impossible since the liquid gas travels through a pipe in the vapouriser that is surrounded by coolant water, so a hole there would do it. But it is not a common fault that I have seen since it is an all metal pipe. You could have a go at stripping down the.vapouriser to see if you can find any fault with it.
It your vapouriser a magic model? Its a common problem on the early types to leak gas into the coolant jacket and have the problems you describe.
Hi
One of my lpg injectors is making a loud popping noise from near manifold area. I thought maybe there was a hole at the manifold or the injectors broken but now I'm thinking it could be back firing. Works smooth as butter on petrol
Maybe a worn out injector part, depends on the noise. Worth looking at all of them and service them if you can.
I have an Isuzu MUX that runs on diesel and a Toyota Fortuner that runs on petrol? Would I need different applications for the LPG conversion or is it the same?
hi. thanks for the video. I have a Tomasetto Nordic XP leaking coolant from the rubber gaskets. i bought a kit and changed them but leak is actually worse. screws seem tight enough. any ideas? Thanks.
Take apart and try and analyse where leak could be coming from
My car works on lpg sometimes but just cuts off to have to switch it back into petrol. It worked for four days fine and now when you switch it to lpg just doesn’t seem to switch to gas and when it does it cuts off.
Sounds like not enough gas pressure. Check the gas tank and vapouriser solenoids, that gas is appearing out of the vapouriser and that it is working ok (no holes in rubber diaphragm). Try and get the software for the ECU if you can and read its status like gas pressure and temperature. That should give you some clues.
Do you have any tips how to remove excess gas from tank if you accidentally pumped above 80%.
The tank float level should cut off overfilling. But if you have managed to then drive it off.
My Cars system is designed to start on petrol and switch to Gas once it reaches 50 Degrees Celsius and continues on gas. But now recently it starts beeping and switches back to petrol as Im driving or even when i am in park or at a stop light occasionally. To by pass this I have to manually turn it off then turn it on to gas to get back on GAS. Would you know what could be causing this?
Sounds like it is detecting a low gas pressure. Probably the vapouriser not working properly. Maybe a worn out diaphragm in it. Be worth changing the LPG filters as well and check the vapouriser is getting hot enough.
comeinhandynow thank you for pointing me in the correct direction!
I have a problem with the Prins system on my car.
From cold, when car gets to the set 45°switch to lpg, the car stalls.
Will only switch to gas when car reaches 85°.
I have been told system may need bleeding?
“Need bleeding” ?? - bleed what? The coolant system? Maybe but doubt it.
If the coolant needed bleeding the car would overheat. However check the water going to the vapoiuriser is as warm as it can be (as warm as any other pipe). Injectors probably a bit waxed up. You could try stripping and cleaning them if they come apart on that system, and/or try running a copper hot water pipe from the engine coolant system underneath the injectors to help free up waxy deposits. It was easy on my omvl system as the injectors were a metal block.
So I have a vehicle I just bought , it's propane , but it won't start, I filled it and it just clicks . I took the filter out had someone crank it and added some starter fluid to see what happens . It would try to start then choke out on itself. Is their a possible reason that the truck is having a gas problem or a electrical problem? I'm new to these systems .
On the scheme for the LPG reducer it shows an inlet and an outlet for some "coolant" (oh my, is that the engine coolant that also passes through the reducer?? That's gotta make any coolant repairs or search for leaks super complicated as compared to a vehicle without LPG... Hopefully I wouldn't have to do it one day). Do I have to drain the coolant before opening this plate to replace the rubber membrane?
Yes it is engine coolant, from the hot side. The hot water is used to vapourise the LPG liquid to gas. No the coolant is separate from that so no need.
@@comeinhandynow oh yes you are right, it turns out there were indeed a bit of coolant in the tubes, good thing I didn't do it on a hot engine
Sir, thank you... i will be looking into my rough idle and random cut out.
Any update on what fixed it ?
@@njoy51 Yes, injectors were clogged... remove, spray direct into injector with wd40 and wire each direct to battery to allow injection flush, then simple put them back. LPG is very difficult to ignite through motor spark, it will never be perfect if your engine has many miles wear and tear. i scrapped my berlingo and got a 1L ecoboost ford transit connect... Its a mini motor beaut with alot of power!
@@tspirit99 yeah, planning to upgrade my plugs to NGK iridium and ignition cables .. hopefully she'll run a lil less hotter
i have a vauxhall zafira 2003 dual fuel always run great on lpg, then it cut out the other day full tank of lpg, didnt automatically switch to petrol, after running on petrol for a few mins switched it back to lpg and it was fine, it did the same again a few days later but now when i switch to lpg engine cuts out on changeover and stops, switch back to petrol starts fine, any help would be appreciated
Same here
There are a few things in this video of the sort of things to check. Using a PC and the right software and comms cable to get info from the lpg ecu should help diagnose it.
I have the same problem, did you manage to find a solution
Thank you very much
Cheers
Good and informative video. I have a issue today and if you have time to answer i will appreciate it.
My car runs good on lpg but today it just could not transfer from petrol ot gas. When i stopped i noticed that the loud noise the injectors make when its about to transfer to lpg isn't there. Its an old Landi Renzo lpg system with a new evaporiser 2 years ago.
So it will not switch over to Lpg. This may be because it has decided that the vapourizer is not warm enough yet (check that and any reasons for it) or because there is not enough Lpg gas pressure (check the gas pressure sensor and gas feed. Maybe a solenoid is not opening)
My LPG system was done about 4 or 5 years ago, I don't think the filter has been cleaned or changed, gas tank is full, but the other day, it will not now switch over to the gas, well it did to start and run on gas, then it just stopped, and now will not auto switch on, it tries but it keeps carrying on as thought the tank is empty. I am going for the reason being the filter is crapped right up, and so blocking the gas getting into the jets to the engine. Is this a reasonable theory ? I think it's done between 20 and 30, 000 ish KLM,s from fitting it.
Possible but personally I’ve never had the filters completely block the flow. I have however often either cleaned or replaced the filters just because it’s the easiest thing to do first to tackle any problems. Most of the problems I saw were due to vapourisor diaphragms wearing out or gummed up injectors. If it’s not switching to gas it means it’s not seeing enough gas pressure.
Hi, just a quick update to my misfire problem. Injector bank 1 would cut off even after replacing new injectors. Replaced old omvl xx1 ecu with a King ecu and bingo no misfiring all injectors working
Yay! Well done, it’s good when fixing stuff works!
Just bought my first bifuel LPG vehicle.. There seems to be a leak by the reducer.. clear liquid, and a puddle of brown, possibly from rust.. I can really smell propane under the hood.. looked at the tank in the truck bed, didn’t see any issues or smell.. what should I do? I’m kind of afraid to drive it
Try and look where the leak is from. Clear liquid is probably water from the coolant system which is used to heat the gas. A smell of propane also needs tracking down. It could be the vaporiser diaphragm leaking which allows gas through the vacuum pipe connection on the diaphragm (if you have one) into the inlet manifold and out through the air filter. Also check any joint leaks with foam bubbles made from detergent and water.
Can anyone help..plse, ?🙏
fuel gauge is kaput,
& its stuck on full.!!
Can an empty lpg only, tank be part filled, if it runs empty on the road, or at home, in order to get to
a garage, or is it a tow
truck only, scenario.????
If it’s indicating full but it is actually empty then the float level sensor inside the tank is stuck. It can be removed and fixed by the 4 bolts/screws on the tank but you have to be sure that the tank is empty. Keep running the vehicle until it wont run on lpg anymore. Disconnect the pipe and power up the solenoid valve to open the gas to outside air, in order to empty the remains. Be outside with lots of ventilation. You can’t easily refill the tank away from a filling station, but you should still have the ability to run on petrol instead. Press the selector button to switch back from lpg to petrol.
Hi my Vauxhall 3.2 has been off road for a year with a full tank of lpg, had new mot yesterday and on petrol my car is sweet but when it went over to lpg the engine light came on and it ran lumpy l left it on lpg for about 5 minutes to maybe clear then raved it, the engine management light then went off and at high er revs it ran better but then went lumpy again and engine management light came back on, am on my own now and haven’t got my husband to advise me since he passed so any advice please would be great. Thank you
It needs an lpg service and check, take to a garage that services or installs lpg systems. Or have a try and cleaning out the injectors and changing the lpg filters to see if that helps. Good luck.
Hi there,,are th diaphragm same sizes for all cars like Leandroves? Good job Good info thanks 👍
Thanks. The LPG vapouriser diaphragm size is only dependant on the manufacturer and model of LPG vapouriser that you have. The one in the video is an aftermarket OMVL one. It is nothing to do with Landrover.
Great video, my LPG is having issues, it only kicks in after driving a distance 40km or so, any ideas??
Sounds like the lpg ecu has decided that the injector rail and gas hasn’t got up to high enough temperature quickly enough. Check the car thermostat and read the engine temperature from an obdii reader to see if there is a problem there. Preferably get the lpg ecu software and interface cable to see what temperature that ecu is reading. Also check that water flow of hot water to the vapouriser is all good.
@@comeinhandynow you're brilliant and correct, thanks a million
I've just replaced the sparkplugs in my car, bolted in the lpg injectors back on, but now on the drivers side, I can hear the lpg injectors ticking inside the car. Do I just need to adjust it slightly?
Ticking usually means it needs new rubber neoprene o rings at the bottom of the plunger inside the injector
@@comeinhandynow thanks. It's odd, it wasnt ticking when I moved it out the way to get to the sparkplugs, but when put it back in place, and started the car, and it went onto lpg, it starts ticking on drivers side, when I move it down abit, it goes little quieter
Hello sir. I have idle issue. The car gets rough at first transfer to lpg, and it throwes lean idle code amd sometimes even dies at traffic light especially at colder weather. If i don let it idle it runs fine. So the problem seems to manifest it self mostly at idle. First transfer to lpg always problematic. I calibrated the injectors and cleaned them. Vaporizer has never been refurbished and i also has noticed filters on them never been changed. I have two vaporiser connected because i have v6 engine, older setup. ... What you think could be the problem? It seams heat sensible problem....
Could be an air leak into the vapouriser. Might be worth stripping those down. If it is just a problem cold then you could delay the switch to lpg by increasing the switch over temperature in the LPG ECU. You will need the hardware cable and software
Hello i have a problem with my lovati easy fast system, the lpg works fine when outside temperature is cold but on summer or when it gets warmer the lpg beeps when i throttle a little, just a touch and it switches to petrol immediately.
Try and get the lpg ecu software and hardware connection cable to get clues about the fault. Sounds like you have a flow problem. Change the filters and check the vapouriser, dismantle and clean.
@@comeinhandynow Thanks for the reply. i cleaned the filters, changed another vapouriser, the ecu for lpg changed with this the car cutted 2l per 100km on gas, changed the sensor on the lpg bought new local 50e still beeps. On the lovato software doesnt show errors. Can't figure this out
Im wanting 2 change my petrol fuel injectors but the lpg hoses r in the way
& they r clamped on can i cut the hose ? What will happen & what security measures should i take?
When the engine is not running the Lpg gas supply is cut off by solenoids on the Lpg tank and vapouriser, so detaching the Lpg supply to the injectors has no risk in that case.
The clamped on bands can be prised off and released. Just use a very small screwdriver to get behind the bit that is bent over the outside bit. Replace the clamps with good quality jubilee clips if you haven’t a clamping tool.
Have a factory fitted BRC system which has the automatic switch over/level gauge. After a gas fill up the system stopped switching over to LPG. The dial on the tank shows gas is present but the led lights on the dash give the impression its empty. I'm wondering if it could be a fuel tank sender unit issue but fear it may be the ECU malfunctioning. Normally I get an audible warning when it runs out of lpg but not with this problem. Anyone else had something similar happening?
I suspect it’s a stuck tank level sensor unit, i also has one stick, but stick on full so i was able to empty the tank by driving. It would be more difficult to empty the tank in order to fix it if full. Maybe you could disconnect the level sensor and wire the ecu connection to a dummy external one or a variable resistor to both test the ecu connection and fool it that its full.
Thanks for the response. I checked the gauge and resistance was ok. While checking wires I took the LED dash indicator out and found the connector was loose. So this indicator acts like a switch - not just a level indicator! Back to 50mpg
Hi i have an old brc type one on a solex carberetor, after filling the lpg tank full which prob hasnt been done for a while the lpg is intermitent it runs for an hour then stops then randomly will run for another hour or so when it feels like it. Ive a feeling i bit of rust in the tanks. Ive changed thw wet filter as thats all it has. Any ideas how to fix? Many thanks
Has the vapouriser got too cold when this happens? Or maybe the injector(s)?
Thanks for the video! Really useful. Out of interest is that an Overfinch Discovery? Didn't realise they converted Disco's!
Yep they did a couple. I had a unique one, being the only one of that particular engine spec. Sold now. Had it 13 years.
Wow brilliant video I've just purchased a little peugeot bipper and when I change to lpg the engine management light comes on . Do you think a service kit and change the filters and innector rubbers and spring onions could cure this . Thank you.
Thanks. It certainly wouldn’t do any harm, but probably the engine light indicates the ecu detecting poor air/fuel mixture so the LPG might need tuning in the ECU. And/or you might need to put on a dummy lamdba sensor on the exhaust to fool the ecu into thinking all is good. If you get a cheap (£12 ish) ODBII reader then that should tell you what the light means. See a video on OBDII dongles on my channel.
The lpg gas in my alphard just suddenly leaked all the gas out and the car stunk of gas,is that serious fix ?
Serious hazard, yes. Locate the leak with some foamed up washing up liquid. Check all connections are tight.
Hi comeinhandynow
I just bought a 4x4 that is fitted with a lpg system (I don't know the name now)...
It worked fine when I've bough it,bu I had to switch it on petrol as no gas left...Then I've filled up,switch it back to gas...them on the motorway the lights on the switch went off...working ok on petrol...
Stopped the engine later then turned it back on few times...nothing
Thanks
You need to check if you have any lpg gas pressure (get software and a cable to read the Lpg ECU). I assume there is no or low pressure so you then have to work out why, could be a failed vapouriser (diaphragm hole is common), or a stuck solenoid valve that enables the Lpg to flow out.
Hi I have a Toyota estima and my lpg doesn’t go through, only the petrol works and the lpg doesn’t. Is there any solution to that? Please let me know, thank you
Follow the video and try and work it out. Test that lpg is getting through at each junction by loosening each joint a little and either listening for leaks or use a foam bubble solution around it to look for bubbles from the gas. Do it outside.
hello, I got a 1,8l bmw e36 and I'm having problems with my LPG system. The car works perfectly fine on regular gas.
The car is shakey (a missfire), if I step off the gas even the passengers can feel it. Can't hold revs when it's in neutral/clutch pushed in. Very hesitant to rev/can't go past around 4500 RPMS, but can hold steady acceleration. No smells. My best guess it's the injectors?
The vaporizer/reducer has been rebuilt a month ago. There's enough gas in the tank.
Sounds bad. Sounds like not enough LPG getting through, so either it’s the vapouriser, injectors or it needs a retune due to different vapourisor pressure. If you want to do yourself, dismantle the injectors and check and clean, same with the vapouriser. Then get the LPG software and interface to talk to the ECU and modify the fuelling strength based on monitoring the voltage of your O2/Lamda sensor in the exhaust.
comeinhandynow its been retuned and as i mentioned the vapouriser has been serviced. I'll check the injectors. Thank you for your input!
comeinhandynow Forgot to update my situation lol. So I just rebuilt the injectors and got them tuned to the rich side - works perfect!
Good to hear. I often had to retune my lpg system. Worth getting the software and an interface cable if you keep the car a long time.
Very useful video, I have a bmw e46 inline 6 running on lpg and when I run it on lpg bank 1 is extremely lean I just cleaned and rebuilt all the injectors they looked pretty dirty but still running lean, looking at the fuel trims +27.3 bank 1 on idle !....help
Replace the Lpg filters and check (strip down) the vapouriser checking for any problems like split rubber diaphragms. Failing that just retune the ECU. I used to find with mine that ECU retuning was needed now and again.
After 40.000km my car started losing coolant. I was able to locate the leak in the vaporizer top, where the coolant hoses connect with the vaporizer... did you ever have this problem?
Not that one, but I’ve seen other problems with poorly made connections or seals onto the vapouriser. One that just gave poor idling/misfiring. It is worth just checking over everything when there are problems.
i would not use superglue as it most sertantly eroses the rubber or even melt it. what would result in drying out the ruber and tears.
Superglue was created to rapidly stick skin / wounds together for military hospital and rubber being organic also reacts very quickly with it. It doesn't however get eroded by it or melt it. Maybe you are thinking of solvent glues which would do that.
Great information.
I have Prins system. I had it fitted 10 years ago. Always replaced filters with prins genuine. Car used t swith t gas at 45 degrees. Now falls t switch over till engine 75 deg or higher. Car stalls.
Once it switches to gas now running issues. I did cleaned out with wire wool solonoid filter housing which worked for a whole. Any advise please
Try a K&N air filter, help lots for better running on my car.
Very informative video,
Sir i need a help i fitted a new landirenzo omegas 2 cng kit in my suzuki liana, from last 6 months, but from last 15 days its hesitates fully when i push the pedal quickly all of sudden, but when i push the pedal slowly or with medium pase my car not hesitate on cng. But with sudden padal it pick up become very compromized. Sorry for my english.
Plz guide me!
You need to access the LPG ECU and adjust the setting for enrichment on acceleration. You need the right software and a serial comms cable. That is my guess.
Super useful well made video, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
I have an OMVL DREAM XXI G system fitted and today when I was reattaching the reducer to its bracket I picked up the wrong bolt which was 3/4" longer than the correct one, which was hiding under the valance.. As I tightened it up I sprung a water leak, the bolt which was too long had broken through the back plate of the reducer unit. Have you any pointers as to where I could get hold of a replacement back plate? I'm in central England. Thanks again.
Thanks. Getting just the backplate could be tricky. I would suggest getting the whole vapouriser. Try ebay.
Also is there a way to repair it? Maybe bolt on a plate over the hole with plenty of gasket sealant?
@@comeinhandynow If I replace the unit, do the gas connections have automatic cut off valves as standard? I don't see any vids showing the gas lines being disconnected but don't want to assume it's safe to do so without the need to make safe?
Hi, i have Dream XXl. It was leaking gas into engine, i changed the membrane (thanks for step-by step manual, great help!). Now it's running too rich and rough and LPG serviceman i took it to says the vaporizer needs to be send to manufacturer for recalibration? And as it's not produced anymore he wants to change it for another used unit. Ever had such a problem after your repairs? Thanks for the reply.
No not had such big issues, but I have occasionally retuned the Lpg ECU myself using a pc and the right Lpg software and interface using the visual feedback from an air:fuel ratio meter. It seemed to often go out of tune. It might be worth stripping and checking the vapouriser again. I wouldn’t go for a used unit. Shop on ebay for another new vapourisor if necessary or try tuning the ECU.
@@comeinhandynow Thanks for the reply and confirmation of what i thought... It felt rather "scammy" but the guy seemed honest up until now. I don't have interface or software so i just take it to someone else.
Great video thanks. I wonder if you can help - I have a 1.8 transit connect bi fuel with Necam system. It's totally cutting out when idling (on both LPG and petrol). I spotted the breather hose from the back of the crankcase is only attached on the crankcase end - other end is hanging loose. On the standard petrol, this would just go into the air filter box. But clearly it doesn't on the LPG version. Would you happen to know where it goes?!
No sorry, but it sounds like you could have an air leak into the inlet manifold causing a very weak mixture at idle, causing to stall. Possibly related to that disconnected pipe. Look or listen for for any places sucking in air around the inlet manifold.
Thank you for your help 😊
Thanks
@comeinhandynow specially with that idea of glue help me alot thanks 😊 🙏 buddy
I've had a bit of erratic idle which I don't know if the leak could be causing it ,the revs are shooting up from 1000 rmp to 2000 rpm when I press the clutch in
My most common leak is the Lpg gas leaking into the vacuum pipe across a holed rubber diagram in the pressure regulator section of the vapourizer. That lowers the manifold pressure at idle and makes it runs richer as well.
hey there, great video mate. i have a difficulty at cold startup, it requires trying multiple times to turn the engine on. i replaced the gas reducer(vaporiser) a couple of years ago. i have the lpg system for about 11 years (brc gas system). any suggestions on what could that issue be? thanks
Lpg cars should always start from cold using petrol only. Then when the engine has warmed up enough to allow the vapouriser to work it should automatically switch over to lpg, as long as you have it switched on.
Hi again that's what I was thinking to I'm running the stag 300 isa 2 LPG system ecu I've got the software on my laptop and the diagnostic cable ,I'm pretty good using it as I have my readouts saved but I wonder if I got the exact vaporizer ,I wouldn't need to change any settings ,its a toughy to decide on .
Similar situation for me. A lambda sensor in the exhaust tied to a dash meter is a useful addition for checking on the state of tune, setting up the map and checking how well it's running.
Very helpful video! Will use the tips in this video
Couple of questions, do you know what pressure the regulator should give? When on the highway and under heavy load my car starts shaking and if I ingore it I get a random cylinder misfire fault. I maxxed out the regulator and it helped a bit but its still vibration under heavy load.
Any suggestions? Maybe the injectors?
Maybe clean injectors (May be waxed up), Change LPG filters, strip and check for any splits in diaphragms in the regulator. Don’t know reg pressure. Also check spark plug lead resistance to check for breaks.
Here it says it should be 1.0-1.3 atmospheres: axleaddict.com/.amp/auto-repair/How-to-Tune-an-LPG-Powered-Car
Thanks for taking all the trouble to shoot, edit and post this item. I'm wondering if I have a different model to your demo. I have a protection plate which drops in under the diaphram you superglued. It supported the membrane whilst wrestling with the spring loaded cap. It stayed in place accordingly. Regs. P.
Any chance of a picture? Very interesting.
Hi mate! Its very informative video, I'm impressed with your knowledge.
But I'm still struggling to sort out the lpg problem in my ford falcon 2007 and mechanics are looting me from last 2 months. Can you please help me out to sort out?
Thanks.
I can only give a few ideas for things to look for, most of which is in that video.
What’s a good reputable brand lpg conversion kit? Any suggestions?
Best to just ask an installer or two to see what is available. Mine was an OMVL system and was one of the market leaders at the time.
Does anybody know how to fix a Nissan 50 forklift, a technician told me to replace the evaporation valve which I did but still wont start . I am getting full all the way to the mixer body. If I use a quick start it will start.
I have an AEB MP48 system in my 4 cyl car, there's an issue where when I accelerate to 2500 - 3000 RPM the system goes back to petrol and beeps at me as if signaling that the pressure is low. I realise this isn't too much info, probably a very broad issue, but any thoughts?
Yep sounds like pressure low low. I would check vaporiser and filters
@@comeinhandynow Thank you, I'll check those parts. I'm very lucky to have found your video, as you're replying and helping people in the comments even now after 6 years.. Thank you again.
Hi, interesting video. Didn't help with my current issue tho so hoping you can help. I have a 350 TBI Chev running a Tartarini system, looks very similar to yours, however very early dual injector model. Anyway, driving up a steep hill needing plenty of throttle. Had to lift off suddenly in order to avoid an errant motorist threatening to pull out in front of me, back on the throttle and no power. Had to switch to petrol to get to the top of the hill. Switched back to LPG once home and the car seemed to run fine. drove back down the hill and on the flat next day without any problem, but coming home at same steel hill, same problem, no power. If I lift off, I can crawl up the hill, but with any decent acceleration lose all power. feels like a fuel blockage. Appreciate any ideas. Cheers
One possibility is that the vapourisor is freezing up when a large gas flow is drawn, this could be due to it not getting enough hot water flow for some reason. Check how warm the vapourisor is by stopping when it happens, turn off and feel it. Or the injectors could be a bit waxed up and getting more sticky when they get colder due to the higher gas flow. (I have run a hot water pipe under them to help on an old car of mine). A strip and clean of the injectors would help, if possible.
If i replace the injector springs and pistons, do I need to calibrate the rail? Mine it's a bit different than yours, it's IG1 Apache. The repair kit includes piston and springs and orings.
At - Probably not, but it’s always a possibility if the spring rates or weights are slightly different from original. I often needed to tweet the LPG ECU mixtures on mine. It’s worth having the interface kit (hardware and software) so you can do it yourself.
@@comeinhandynow I have the cable and software, that's not a problem, but I meant the physical calibration of the rail with Indicator Clocks, if you've heard about it?
Not quite sure what that is, but if would guess the same answer applies.
I repair my gas italia rpg 09 and after that I have pressure max 1.1 bar. Before max pressure it is 1.5 bar. Do you know what goes wrong? Thanks in advance
Nothing to go on there. I suggest checking your evaporator/regulator is rebuilt right and the correct parts have been used. Maybe try a new regulator.
Hello, i have a avensis t22 1.6 vvti with omvl kit, i had some problems, car was not running well in lpg neither in gas, hard starts as well, my mechanical after a lot of research for what cause it, we change plug, one multiplier, lamda sensor, even and the reducer because he didnt adjust the pressure to the old one, as he inform me today the car finally well, but he has as he told a bad news, he could make the car run good only at fuel trim -20 in lpg, this is not normal as he said but for some reason the car run hood only at this point, when he try to run in normal setting the is max +/-5 the car doesn't run well, he told me to start looking other things but i can't spend anymore money not knowing the problem, the car is already 1 months in the garages, one mechanical says has no compression, i test it and is good, other one says other stuff, only with him tried and did some work, he said with this setting exacly this: we have this problem and i dont know how log the car will last, i ask him what do you mean! I mena with this setting that is to rich mixture maybe you soon have other problems, as catalyst may worn even the whole engine didn't last, even if the car seems to work fine now, is this true? Anyone have an idea what else to check in the car?
Hi. This rough running is common after a few years. Injectors and filters clog up with the wax that they mix with lpg gas. I had to retune mine every year or two as well as replace or service items, maybe every 2 or 3 years. The ideal thing is get yourself the omvl softwre and interface cable to the ecu and an in car AFR (airfuel ratio) meter, then you can tweak the gas injection time yourself to get a good reading. Better then relying on mechs who talk a lot of BS on lpg. Unless they run one themselves or install then. As long as the AFR is ok then probably ok if it was retuned to make it correct and it is not misfirinf/ running rough. This is just my personal experience so i take no reponsibility for perceived advice, as always
Regards, I write because I have a problem with my car: LPG (liquid) from the rear tank comes to the reducer via solenoid valve, however, there is nothing in the delivery tube from reducer to motor, there is no gas (or maybe a small amount..). The car immediately returns with gasoline. Wrong reducer position? or incorrect refrigerant temperature? the reducer is not frozen or even hot..
The vapouriser/reducer should be warmed by the engine coolant circuit, so should be warm/hot. Check gas pressure is entering the vapouriser. Check gas pressure and temperature by reading those values from the gas Ecu. (Get software on web and get cable to laptop interface cable). Check other solenoids. Then maybe dismantle and check vapouriser.
Im used i10 lpg car but some time fat fat sound pls whats prablams sir
Not enough information to diagnose that.
Hi, I have a grand Cherokee sport with a 4ltr engine and had it converted to LPG about 10 years ago. I had no problems with it and only use it once each week for local travel. Some months ago I noticed a smell of gas and tried to locate where there might be a leak. To be safe, I turned it off and checked the connectors to the tubing and replaced 1 on the front injector rail. There are 2 lots of 3 Magic valves. I decided to test the system for leaks today and all appeared ok until I was watching the engine running with the gas turned on and after a few minutes there was a sudden whoosh or release of gas from the front set of injectors area. It did it again a few minutes later both times just for a second. I would think that the gas tank is probably empty as I didn’t refill it after turning it off. Is that sudden release of gas a normal thing especially as the tank might be empty? I didn’t see any other problems or leaks except for the sudden release. Would you kindly let me know what you think of this and let me know. Your video shows me what I need to do to service everything else but these Magic valves might be tricky to service. Many thanks for reading this long text.
The whooshing doesn’t sound normal. Best check over everything. A common problem is the vapouriser rubber diaphragm having a leak and leaking gas into the vacuum line back to the inlet manifold. It may be that. Not sure what you mean by magic valves, injector solenoid? Or gas isolator solenoids? Anyhow just check everything. Good luck.
Hi, thanks for your fast response. The release appears to come from the front Injector rail Magic jet FX 3 cylinder array of which there are 2 sets. This is a link to the website if I need to replace them www.lpg.auto.pl/en/index.php?s=info&id=1048 and they are Polish from the loo of it. Otherwise I will do as you suggest and have the whole system checked. I’m trying to save the pennies lol. Thanks again.
many thanks for the tutorial sir:few questions: car takes more time than previous years (even in same season, tartarini system) to switch to LPG when cold starting. it takes about 2.5 miles until switch. I know for some systems it may be normal but previous years it did not take more than half mile. 2. where can I get software for tartarini system for my laptop? any free software?3. reaching almost 100k in 2 and a half years, what would be recommended service in addition to liquid and gas filter change, diaphragm only?thanks
Ask an lpg installing company, or search online, for lpg software. For additional servicing, the diaphragm can wear regularly in the omvl system, not sure about others. Similarly the lpg injectors can need regular rebuilding with a service kit on omvl types. Again that may be different for others.
If it takes longer to switch over, then probably the vapouriser is not getting hot enough due to poorer water flow. Often the pipe to the cabin heater is used for the vapouriser heating, so if the heater matrix gets more blocked then the water flow may slow. You need to work out how your system is plumbed in and work out why it is not getting hot so quickly.
@@comeinhandynow thanks alot
Sir good day...
My taxi is LPG... i just want to ask...
What should i do because it loses power while accelerating and turning the AC on...
sounds like the Lpg system needs a good service, new filters, vapouriser diaphragm and injectors
My car has a lpg smell for around 10 mins after I turn the ignition off. What could be the problem?
It could be the rubber diaphragm in the vapouriser leaking back into the inlet Manifold. Check for leaks from the vapourisor by pulling off the small vaccuum pipe and test for leaks from it with soapy bubbled up washing up liquid from this point and any other points.
hi got a 2004 honda civic, started to misfire when when starting up, runs fine on petrol. now it is misfiring all the time, unless i switch it over to petrol then it works perfectly fine. any idea what it could be? my lpg guy goes it needs the tappets adjusting?
I would change lpg guy (lol, tappers!). It’s probably some of the injectors gumming up, as I mention in the video. This is common. Depending on what lpg injectors you have, they may be able to be dismantled and cleaned up. OMVL ones can be and there is a service kit with new springs and o rings that you can buy. Otherwise new lpg injectors. Other thing to check is that you have a good spark as lpg is a bit more sensitive to this. So change spark plugs and check leads by measuring lead resistance. Also look for any sparks appearing around the spark plug leads, do at night so you can see them, and fix as required.
Thank you for the video!
Cheers
Thanks for the interesting video, I have a BRC system fitted to a 2009 astra, are the filters hard to replace and do you have a video of this at all?
They are not hard. No video. You may have to prise off the hose retaining clips and replace them with jubilee clips that’s all.
Check for any leaks afterwards using the foam from frothed up washing up liquid. Check if it bubbles up anywhere around the joints, with the car running on lpg.
The lpg impiant is not switch on in lpg
When a start can the car you help with an answer thank you
Could be the vapouriser never gets warm enough (find cause) or there is not enough gas pressure (find cause for that). Get the lpg software to communicate to the lpg ECU to help.
@@comeinhandynow thanky sir for your help wish you all the best !!!
Hi how -Producer assembled this regulator without loctite? :) Have You check parameters after?
Good question. Maybe they use a better preformed diaphragm. Gas pressure was fine at 1.7 bar afterwards. I often check the a/f ratio via a lambda sensor and in car meter.
I’m getting weak bank on gas change over on my Dodge Ram I’ve noticed it helps to stop this if I manually change because the temperature setting was only 30. I’ve reset it now to 65 but it really does take a while to change over can you help me
It takes a bit of trial and error to get the switch over temperature just right. I think I had mine about 50C. Most systems have a mode for switching to Lpg straightaway, useful when starting hot. Look up the mode for yours.
Alternatively to look for faster switch over check that the water plumbing for the vapourizor is hot and flows well all the time, with interior heater on or off, as flow may be restricted when off.
My 2001 E53 BMW X5 4.4 has started cutting out when on LPG, any ideas on where to look?
Vapouriser diaphragm leak perhaps.
Hi Handy. Really useful video and very interesting to read all the answers to questions. Super helpful. I have an issue with my Zavoli bora system in that it's taking ages for the vaporiser to warm to temp. It can take 30mins or more. I tried not turning on the interior heater and this helps speed up lpg kicking in, but still seems to take much longer than normal. Last year during sub zero temps it was fine and switched over as normal so sure there is some issue. Could the temp sensor be faulty? Or does my coolant need replacing? Gonna do the bubble test tomorrow to see if any leaks and am also considering if vaporiser diaphragm could be an issue. Any suggestions of other things to check would be really appreciated as am a bit of a novice. Many Thanks
If it takes longer to switch over, then probably the vapouriser is not getting hot enough due to poorer water flow. There could also be an air lock in the pipe. Try flushing the pipes and filling and or bleeding to avoid air in the pipes. Often the pipe to the cabin heater is used for the vapouriser heating, so if the heater matrix gets more blocked then the water flow may slow. You need to work out how your system is plumbed in and work out why it is not getting hot so quickly.
LPG software to talk to the ECU is useful to see what temperature the ECU is seeing.
It could also be the car engine thermostat sticking open so that your whole engine is running cooler for longer.
Great advice. I was just looking at a replacement thermostat! It's due a MOT soon so will get my mechanic to do the flushing then and replace stat. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and taking time to help us. Best regards
I have now ordered the software and cable too. I will update once I find the solution. Many thanks
Sorry to ask another question. Just wondering if the lpg system has its own independent thermostat that might be faulty? The reason I ask is that the cars temp gauge gets up to temp 90 degrees quickly / as normal so thinking perhaps not the cars thermostat at fault. If the lpg thermostat staying closed maybe the hot coolant not making it round to the vaporiser. Until its mega hot and finally opens
My OMVL vaporizer freezes up on start up with cold engine, eventually untill the engine stops. By your experiance what do you think might be the problem? Might there be a hole in the diaphgram?
Firstly the car shouldn’t be switching over from petrol to Lpg until the engine is warm. The switch over temperature is set in the Lpg ECU, so if you have a cable and software you can check and change this. Check that the coolant pipes that connect the vaporiser to the heater water pipes (usually) are flowing warm/hot water once the engine is warm. If there is insufficient flow then it can’t vapourise the gas correctly and the vapouriser could freeze up. Maybe on your car the interior heater circuit has the type that stops the flow when ‘cold’ is selected inside the car, and in that case if those pipes are used to heat the vapouriser then the flow to that will stop and it could freeze up.
A hole in the diaphragm usually make the engine run rough at idle and make it sound like its backfiring when decelerating.
comeinhandynow, Thank you very much sir. I will have a look into this. Have a nice day! 👍