3d Printer Calibration and Maintenance | PID and Extruder
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ค. 2024
- When you've taken your 3d printer out of the box, what are the steps you should take to ensure high-quality prints? I have a number of videos on this channel about leveling the printer bed your first step, but what is next? After using your 3d printer for 3 months, 6 months, a year, what should you do to keep it in tip-top condition? This video covers routine 3d printer maintenance, PID temperature tuning, and extruder calibration. It is a hands-on video with both background and video examples of the procedures.
These calibration steps apply to Creality Printers, such as the CR10 and Ender lines, Prusa printers such as the i3 Mk3, Monoprice 3d Printers and most cartesian style 3d printers.
The slides used in this video are accessible at:
docs.google.com/presentation/...
Products mentioned in this video are listed in the affiliate links below.
Super Lube PTFE Grease
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3-IN-ONE Silicone
amzn.to/2N67wIZ
Neewer - Set of 4 Hexagonal Screwdrivers
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Please leave your comments below so we can continue to learn together.
Irv
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Every time I watch one of your videos, I end up learning something that forces me to go back and print a ton of towers!
Wow! Very good video! I just used it to perform my first PID tune and i installed a new extruder so had to recalibrate esteps. Thank you very much! I'm also learning FreeCAD with your tutorial videos!
I was a little nervous about pid tuning. turns out it's really easy. Thank you!
thank you so much for this. I have needed both of these procedures and man has it been nice to have it all spelled out. you did great with this video as usual. thank you so much!!!
I know this is an older video, but I've watched a few videos on PID calibration, and this is the best explanation. Thank you.
DrVax: Thanks a ton for all the GREAT info! Keep up the good work my friend.
You Si,r are waking up my brain. I have done some ladder logic program adjusting and writing, in a production setting.( a little, took a class even) MANY moons ago. Thank you for these G-code vids, a re-newed flame has been lit. Again, Thank You.
Hello from the UK, thank you for a great, informative video. You have taught me a great deal on 3d printing. Best wishes, Rob
Great video and info! I searched so long for a lesson on everything you've discussed. Thanks!
I've learned a lot with this lesson. Thank very much Doc !
Thank you DrVax. Very nice list of tuning tasks and how to make the changes. I'd add the calibration of the current of the stepper motors and when it may be required.
Thanks for the suggestion.
WOW!! very informative. thank you. i was having problems with my hot end and thermal runway, and this solved it. Thank you
Love the way you explain things. Totally agree with the comments related to L wrenches. Replace them, but keep them as a backup! Finally, I have to say every time I see DrVax, it takes me back to my old machine shop days in the 80's when we first installed our Vax mini in our quality inspection lab. That computer served us for many years. :)
Thanks for the comment. I also have good memories about the 1980's. I worked in software services for DEC on VAX and PDP-11 machines.
The most useful video on TH-cam, I can't remember how many times I watched it and shared it on Facebook
This is such a helpful resource to comeback to. I did find when I tried to send m503 or M500 commands through pronterface it would get stuck saying sending and nothing happened. Moving over to using Google chrome extension and it worked first time 👌🏻
a true master of 3d printing, thank you dr. vax
Amazing clear informations! The best found in internet ! Love to learn from you Sir
Great thing you did this video with a ender 5. Now i can just follow it without modifying anything ✌️
thanks man. Super informative
Very helpful thank you.
Managed to upload your printer settings into my cura
Fantastic, thanks never printed so well, no stringing ,perfect printing.
Thanks again
Oh, Have you ever printed with Peek and would you do a video on it .
I've done a lot of work on my cr-10s but have not tackled PID tuning. So now have confidence on giving it a go. I love the extent you describe what you're doing. Is one of the best channels I go to for 'how to's. Thanks mate. Look forward to your next installment.
Thanks for the kind works. All the best.
Thank you, very cleanly and easy to follow. Subbed and liked 👍👍
Thanks Dr Vax, with your guidance, I've been able to print very quickly from day one.
The videos on Cura are great, I feel like an expert using Cura. 👍
I am also a very big Cura fan. I find the setting UI more intuitive than PrusaSlicer which I also use.
Thanks boss.. and nice one for the advice on the Gcode sender for chrome.
Thank you sir for yet another great video!
I had performed the PID tuning once prior but thought I'd do it again for the sake of moving through this complete video. I raised the bed to about 1 mm to perform this test, not sure if that affects this or not. But I ran the test, set and M500'd the values P86.38 I17.01 D109.68. I shut down the machine and software, brought them back up and verified that the settings saved (they did, thank you). For grins, I ran the test again and ended up with P61.12 I5.75 D162.46. I'd have thought they would have been at least in the same relative ballpark.
I'm working on a Monoprice Maker Ultimate (Wanhao Duplicator 6 rebrand) with front and side enclosures and stock fans but modified with the Micro Swiss hotend (stock heating block) and using the MatterHackers application for my terminal. To your (or any other viewers out there) knowledge is this variance typical? I'd love to see back-to-back results if anyone is willing. I know the Good Doctor is on the mend (speedy recovery!) so if the community could help out I'd appreciate it!
That seems like a very significant range. I often run the PID tuning 3-4 times and use the average. A variation as large as you are seeing might indicate a bad component either the heat block or thermistor. I would also make sure cables, nozzle, heat block are all tight. Be careful around the thermistor as they are easy to break.
Wow! Thanks! Great info!
MY MAN! Muchos gracias!!!!!!
Great job explaining everything. I also use hobby grade hex drivers on my printers. Once you get used to using them it's hard to go back to the "L" wrenches.
Thanks for commenting.
It all depends how tight your screws have to be, quality stainless steel machine screws like the ones on my lathe and milling machine need to be very tight and thread locked and a hex driver just wont get you enough torque wheras an Allen key will
@@AndrewAHayes Absolutely, but for 3d printers, which is what this video focuses on, the work can almost entirely be done with the hex drivers. For frame assembly, you can use the hex drivers and simply give that last little torque with a "L" wrench to snug it up all the way. The purpose of using the hex driver is that it is faster and easier in most, not all, applications. I've been using them for about 30 years. I still keep the "L" shaped wrenches around. In fact, I have many of them. Especially for larger equipment. I have a set specific for my bikes, another for my table saw, and a huge collection in my toolbox for all other equipment. Tools where I use hex wrenches a lot, such as when I had my machinist lathes, I tend to keep the correct sizes stored at the tool for easy access. But, for what we need for 3D printers, hex drivers are perfect. That's just my opinion. If I was working on heavy equipment, air planes, or anything outside of what this video was discussing, I'd take that into consideration and use the correct tool for the job.
finally understood pid thankyou
Another good video!! I have made a number of GCODE files for extruder calibration. I find it easier than typing in the commands for each test. I have three Ender printers and am swapping components frequently.
; 100 mm EXTRUDER CALIBRATION Ender-5
; EXTRUDE 100 MM OF FILAMENT TO TEST
;
G90 ;METRIC VALUES
M83 ;SET EXTRUDER TO RELATIVE MODE
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
M104 S210 ;SET HOT END TO 210C
M109 S210 T0 ;WAIT FOR HOT END TEMP
;
; NOW FOR THE MAGIC
; G1 = DO SOMETHING
; E100 = EXTRUDE 100 mm of filament
; F100 feed rate 100 mm / minute
;
M300 S1000 P500 ;BEEP
G1 E100 F100
I have a Prusa Mini. Can I use this method via Octoprint on the Prusa. By the way very helpful worked fine on several of my printers and was quite amazed how far out my e steps were. The resulting prints are much improved. Thanks.👍
Never thought I'd learn about pid outside of school before.
Very good series of videos. How does one calibrate the BLTouch. Mine came installed with my E5+ and I think it is sending false signals to the bed to stop when the bed is many mm away? ie the bed doesn't raise to the correct height. Z home is 0 but it doesn't raise to that.
Yup PID tuning is critical. You can see on your display if you’re hot end temp is bouncing. I PID for each temp I use. My hot end PID is different for PLA and PETG.
As I’m a hobbyist already, I use quality Hex drivers, but those keys can come in handy for clearance needs.
If you use octoprint you can track your temperatures on a graph.
i love your vedio,can you please make how to fix z banding in Ender5 pro? i'm solving it too long .
Thank you for the free MatterControl program tip. Although sadly this program works very very slow on a standard Windows 10 64 bit laptop! Which makes it quite annoying to work with. It probably worked fine on your faster Macbook?
amaizing video!!!!
Glad you liked it!!
I am new to 3d printing and have found your videos very helpful! I am working with my 12 year old son and he loves 3d printing with his new Monoprice MP10 mini. We were in the middle of a print and the PLA filament ran out, now it appears to be stuck in the tube (don't think it is a nozzle or extruder clog). Any helpful videos or tips on how to get filament stuck in the tube out?
This video is for a different printer, but all bowden printers are similar.
th-cam.com/video/tavFPJV0JnM/w-d-xo.html
After removing the bowden tube from the hot end, in your case you may want to also release the coupler on the extruder end and take the bowden tube off. Then you can use another piece of filament to clear the tube.
Hope this helps. Irv
You are amazingly articulate and the precision and use of words is incredible. I'm curious. What's your educational background? I would love to take the same kind of college courses that cultivated such an impressive degree of understanting of computerized mechanical devices and finely honed attention to detail.
Read a lot.
Great video, Thank you for sharing the knowledge. I have changed my hotend out to an all metal hotend with new heat cartridge and thermistor for printing PC. My printer (CR10-V3) will not allow me to set anything higher then 250C can I program (PID Tune)? The heater cartridge is rated for 350C?
You need to edit the firmware for higher temps
All my temp settings were correct then 1 day it seems to print so hot lucky I got pics of it 😄
Irv, I was trying to load the Terminal you use in this video but the Kit site does not load completely
Fantastic video both the PID and extruder settings for my nozzle on my Ender3 pro are set.
But when I try the bed PID calibration when I put the M303 E-1 S60 in the gcode reviewer ( another great video ) it just says:
PID Autotune failed: Bad extruder number.
What am I doing wrong?.
Because it is said to be unnecessary, Bed PID is disabled by default. You need to change the Configuration.h file in your firmware and enable BedPID
Hi Erve, I have tried the M303 E-1 S75 to do the bed but my Sunlu S8/ Octoprint Terminal says ...Send: M303 E-1 S75
Recv: PID Autotune failed! Bad extruder number
Recv: ok
Any clues would be a great help. Love the channel by the way
Hi Dr Vax
Strange thing with my CR10. Now the print temperature starts to goes down when printing. I tried Pronterface and when imput the values on M303, the PID autotune test star, never starts. Any tips please? Best regards from Portugal
Thanks for the awesome vid Doc...I had an issue however when trying to do PID tuning for the bed on my Geeetech A10M...when I send the M303 command with E-1 I get this:
M303 E-1 S60
PID Autotune start
T:41.95 /0.00 B:21.25 /0.00 @:0 B@:127
Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
and the printer needs to be reset locally to get going again???
Sounds like your heat bed sensor is not functioning properly. Check the heater bed thermistor connections.
I have an Ender 5 pro with the 4.2.2 mainboard and M303 E-1 throws a Bad heater ID. Any idea what the bed heater ID is with the 32bit board?
Edit: Don't worry about the question. Marlin has the bed in Bang-Bang mode by default. Just changed that in firmware and recompiled :).
Extra question though. Does the U flag on m303 still work to save the values to RAM to avoid needing the M304? ie: M303 E0 C10 S220 U1
Hi sir, wanted to pick your brain about this. Brand new Sunlu S8 Pro and realized a few things I didn't do. I am attempting to do a PID test, but the results come back blank on Pronterface.
They all show
#define DEAULT_Kp or Ki or Kd.
any thoughts?
I have a question I did the pid successful I did the excrusion also it's was successful. But now when I print it prints the first layer only. Once the first layer is completed and the fans come on reprinting carry-on. But without excruding filament
Hey DrVax, thanks for all the amazing and helpful videos, we are definitely "learning together". I am however, having issues with my Ender 5 Pro and being able to PID tune the hot bed. I keep getting an error "PID Autotune failed! Bad heater id". How would I go about sorting this out? Heats fine with slicer gcode settings and manually adjusting it, but no PID tuning. Thanks in advance, your time and help is greatly appreciated.
E-1 doesn't correspond to the bed heater ID on the 4.2.2 mainboard used in the Ender 5 Pro and some Ender 3 versions. The E0 is right for the hot end. I have not yet found the correct Heater ID for the bed on the 4.2.2 board, but with that said my bed hits temperature and doesn't vary much so PID tuning is not really needed for it. If you set 60 degrees for your bed and it hits it and doesn't overshoot much and stays pretty stable, then you likely do not need to tune the PID for the bed.
Edit: Found the answer. Firmware sets bed temp to Bang Bang by default so no PID is available for the bed on Ender 5 Pro with 4.2.2 board
My printer comes with a gcode sender can i do calibration without using a computer since my printer is not connected with the printer ? ( Biqu B1)
Do you need to calibrate your extruder? I mean can't you just compensate with flow rate in the slicer only, and it would do the same thing?
Hello there, I have an MP10 and have seen your tutorial on this very printer but im trying to print with nylon filament which melts between 250-270 and the first layer of it is always rising up and was wondering if you have any experience with this type of material and if so what did you do to adjust speeds and such, Thanks
I am doubtful that the MP10 with standard hot end is capable of printing nylon. I also do not know if the bed bed can sustain a high enough temperature to eliminate warping.
@@MakeWithTech Thanks for the response, i am gonna try and run it at its max temp on the bed and see if that works
This is My Kinda Dr :)
Hello Dr.vax, I did the extruder pid tuning but when I do the bed, I get an error message of: READ: PID Autotune failed! Bad extruder number, please can you guide me thanks
Dr. Vax... I performed the hot end calibration and had no issues following your instructions to a T, but when I try to do the same for the bed on my Ender 5 Plus using pronterface I receive this message below. I've tried every variation of the code, moving the spaces and trying the number pad minus instead of the one on the main part of the key board and everything else, but I get this message every time. Do you have any idea why I am receiving this message?
M303 E-1 S60
SENDING:M303 E-1 S60
PID Autotune failed! Bad extruder number
Temperatures: Is it necessary to see if the temp sensor itself is accurate? Or do we make an assumption that RTD's are fairly consistent? And why do they keep calling them thermistors when by definition they are RTD's..i.e PT1000? (1000 ohm Platinum). Based on what I've been taught, they are quite different from a thermistor. Or is it just something we accept like tissue vs Kleenex? But these are the little things I get snagged on along the way. On one hand attention to detail. On the other hand a glove.
Board interface: Can we send commands like this over our computer network instead of USB? If so, which software/control boards supports this? Do you have a video on the different control boards?
First I defer to you about the naming of the temperature sensor. I have little expertise in this area outside of 3d printing and in 3d Printing, I generally hear people refer to them as thermistors. For example here is a description from multiple online sites: "Creality 3D Printer NTC Thermistor Temp Sensor "
The PID calibration process, where the test is run multiple times, and where it measures the under and the over-temperature response of the sensor is designed to accommodate variations between sensors.
You are correct it would be nice to know your sensor is calibrated to the correct standard temperature. Using an IR thermometer I have not been able to measure this accurately enough to say if my sensor is absolutely correct or not.
However, then calibrated you can expect consistent performance and then you can tune your prints to this consistent performance.
Thanks for adding to the discussion. Irv
Can you find some time to assist in calibrating an Ender 3 v2 where the eeprom is apparently on the sd card. I’ve tried and ran the tests but cannot save
The eeprom is on the main board inside the printer, on the console go to control on the main screen, in here for to save settings after you've main changes.
Does this work on all printers? I have a tevo nereus. I'm just not sure if it the console and save commands to the settings. :)
No. Not all firmware from all manufacturers support the required GCODE commands.
Someone told me PID tuning would help with my ender 5 pro but I’m very new to this.. my machine just stops after a few mins and just sits there. It doesn’t move it just stops. I know I’m late to this stuff but could someone help me or are there new videos on this issue?
What if your filament is not sticking to the bed and the nozzle is not letting out any filament after like 3 to 4 minutes
Hello, does the PID change if the thermistor is replaced? Thanks.
Good question. Not sure but I do not think it should. I believe the pid parameters are impacted most by the characteristics of the heating element.
is it better to change the esteps in the printer itself or better to set the printer to 100 and change the values in your slicer?
I think it is better to change in the printer, if it supports it. No all 3d printer firmware supports changing esteps.
How do I get to send a letter for a full size print say 6m x5m to you so you select good 3d factory for me...I hope first tobuild a toy 30cm cube.
Thanks Dr.Vax, when I put in the auto tune values for the bed I get a prompt with an “PID Autotune failed! Bad extruder number”
Are you putting in an E-1. Depending on your printer firmware and marlin versions the gcode may vary.
DrVax yes I am, I have ender 3 and marlin ver 1.1.9
Had the same error. Checked my Configuration.h file and PIDTEMPBED is commented out (//#define PIDTEMPBED). There is a fair amount of Marlin comments above and below the PID variable about using PID tuning on a heated bed (Marlin 2.0). For now, I think I'll leave PID turned off on my bed.
On my ender 5 plus when i am using gcode sender after typing in the command G1 E100 F100 nothing ever happens I do see a blue LED light flashing on the back of the board inside of the control area but the extruder does not begin to move I can go into my settings manually on the printer and hit the refuel button and type in 100 millimeters and tell it to feed but I would like to do it this way as you're showing in the video but it doesn't work I am not sure what I'm doing wrong I followed your procedure for the nozzel temperature calibration and all of those commands worked properly. The bed leveling auto tune command and this extrusion command didn't work. Off to the right on the command line it displayed the word OK but nothing happened afterwards
Im having an issue with my Tronxy x5sa. It started out printing just fine, I managed to print a couple props from star trek and an instrument. Then my printer began to start printing the next project several centimeters above the build plate. I checked and adjusted the z offset and the printer homes to .67 mm on the z axis, but when i check the z offset feature it moves to 0 on the z axis. However as I stated earlier when it moves to start the print it lowers the build plate and begins printing in mid air. Ive searched many forums and have tried to reach Tronxy tech support but havent received a reply yet. Any assistance would be appreciated
First I have learned over the years that software driven devices often fail for every simple reasons. The first thing I would check would be the Z level switch on the printer. SInce I do not have a Tronyxy I cannot tell you where it is located but it is the switch the detects when the hot end (nozzle) has reached the print surface. If the cable to this switch fell out, depending on the print the hot end will crash into the print surface or stop in mid-air.
Second I would make sure you are using the same version of the slicer printer profile you used in the past.
Hope these ideas get you started.
A great place to discuss this further is at the DrVax forum located at forum.drvax.com. This forum is for DrVax video viewers and tends to have a number of helpful and friendly people.
Irv, I've been having temperature tuning issues, and the settings resulting from autotune aren't improving the performance. I am a controls engineer with lots of experience with PID's but I cannot use my experience if I can't see the PID output. Do you know of a way to report the output of the nozzle temperature PID loop (the amount of power going to the heater)? I've looked through the Marlin sight but don't see anything that reports this data back to the terminal.
Other than reporting the 3 values, Marlin does not output anything else. You might be able to read the source code to find out how it is calculating it?
As a note, some 3D printer control boards had an issue with power supply stability, even with a decent main PSU. There are a couple of videos showing how to add capacitors to certain lines to assist in stability, though some are older and relate only to the 8 bit boards.
@@EsotericArctos drive.google.com/file/d/1L7XgyUAv7AwyiMxfYpcN6VuR_mPzBfQA/view?usp=sharing This is what it is doing. Occasionally hot end temp jumps either up or down. I will install new heater and thermistor and see if that fixes the problem. I will also put an extra set of wires on the heater terminals and run them out of the case so that I can monitor heater voltage with a meter.
@@EsotericArctos I hooked up a Fluke Multimeter to the hot end heater terminals and learned some interesting stuff.
- The PID loop only works when you are within 10 Deg C of setpoint (I don't know if this is adjustable). I found this by giving the PID very low P tuning values, and watched the heater voltage. As soon as I got 10 deg below setpoint, the voltage would jump to 24 volts (maximum voltage output for hot end). Once it got within 10 Deg, the voltage would "jump" back to the PID output signal voltage.
- I learned that the PID output value IS reported in the temperature messages that the Ender 3 V2 constantly puts out.
Recv: T:220.71 /220.00 B:26.82 /0.00 @:54 B@:0
In the above message, the hot end actual temp is 220.71 and the setpoint is 220.00.
The bed actual temp is 26.82 and the setpoint is 0.00 (I wasn't heating my bed during this test)
The output of the hot end PID loop (or - the power to the heater) is 54 (out of a total possible of 127)
The output of the bed PID loop is 0/127.
- I also learned that using my Fluke to measure the dc voltage to the heater doesn't really work because my fluke samples at around 4x per second, which I'm guessing is about double the rate that the PID controller pulses it's output. I will try to confirm this with an oscilloscope. Even though the temp messages are telling me my output is stable around 60/127, my Fluke measures voltages ramp slowly from around 4 V to 17 V in a fairly consistent triangle wave.
@@randysonnicksen9475 Good to know. I've learnt something more as well :) This may help me in my tuning also
I got a ender 5 use a while ago was having issues ,the extruder was set at 130mm, it need to be 100, also found it weird all my other setting like the heat are the exact same as your ender 5
Sounds like someone messed with the steps per mm. If I remember correctly the stock Enders, which almost all use the same stepper motors, come at about 95 steps per mm.
@@MakeWithTech yeah I thought so too, that makes more sense.
I'll have to try 95 then.
My mark may have been a bit off.
Thanks
If your measured use your measured value. 100 sounds fine.
@@MakeWithTech k,thanks for your time.
I’ve always heard to use sewing machine oil on 3D printers.
im trying to tune the pid and i cant set it to the desired temp of 300. i have a ntc 100k thermaster and an upgraded allmetal hotend as well as a heat canister that draws 60w... my firmware is not allowing me past a certain point thought. What can i do to correct this?
i cant even do it at 190...
Excellent - My progamme (or computer Windows 10) doe snot show Ok or show progress - Guess there is a comand
PID link isn't working! How do you do this with octoprint on ender 5?
I have a cr-10 v3 but I tried every thing but when i start the printer .. it gives 62 degrees bed temperature even when its 19 degrees .. en 51 nozzle temperature .. it wil not go lower ...
Your thermister or heating element might be bad. Did it ever work?
Bed PID is disabled by default. If you want to use it you will have to enable it in the Configuration.h file in your firmware.
You are correct for many printer but it depends on the printer. I run the TH3d versions of marlin which have this enabled by default. It is also enabled for example on the Monoprice Mini Select which using customized firmware.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
I have tried everything but my hot will not hold temp. 3 of my 4 printers have this problem. It started after I replaced my main board with a Creality V4.2.7 and installed a Creality CR Touch. when I run the autotune I (PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high) Can you help THANK YOU
Sound like your terminated was not reinstalled properly.
@@MakeWithTechWhat do you mean by terminated
@@MakeWithTech I am not too savvy when it comes to software I can figure out things with help from people like you. how do I check for terminated? Have you heard of this problem with the v4.2.7 board & cr touch? if so do you know of a fix
My printer is direct drive, how can I measure the estep?
Same way. Just pick a consistent point to measure from.
I have a rather long question about extrusion calibration. Sorry, but the devil is in the details.
I have calibrated my system as shown a few times over, using 100mm and even 500mm of filament. I've set my esteps and then extruded exactly the amount of filament expected. Good!
If I print a typical object with a lot of infill, it looks good and is relatively strong. Top surfaces usually look just great. Infill has a little extra crud tucked in sometimes.
However, if I print a solid object, say 40x40mm and 8 layers thick, it is WAY over extruded. The top layer is a soupy mess, getting PLA all over my nozzle which harms the print later.
Interestingly, this effect doesn't show up on the top layer, perhaps because there is some 'give' to the surface. Just the solid bottom layers.
I find I have to turn the flow rate down to 74% to get an eighth layer that looks as nice as the first layer! A typical 4 solid layer print gets sloppy but usually recovers as the print progresses.
If I print a typical object at 74% flow rate, it's brittle and the walls don't look great. Infill is not fused. Top surface lines show gaps.
I have reduced the squash on the first layer until I have a good chance of loosing adhesion; no difference.
I have observed this identically with quite a few nozzles and PLA filaments.
I have never seen anyone else comment on this effect, which is unique in my experience.
Have you experienced this? Have you found a correction for this issue, or decided to ignore it? What could cause this?
I am using an Ender3v2 and current Cura slicer. Hatchbox, SunLu and PolyTerra PLA filament among others. 0.2, 0.4 and 0.8mm nozzles.
Any help appreciated.
Should I not calibrate how far an axis moves, versus how far I say it should move?
Yes it is possible to calibrate the x,y,z stepper motors but it is a more complex procedure. Most people do not have to touch this.
@@MakeWithTech I enjoyed watching this video and getting a confirmation I did it really was super cool. And I would love if you made one on the axis movement too 😇 you explain it all so fantastisk well. 😊
I swear by graphite power to lubricate my rails and gears. No fuss, nothing wet to attract particulates and it lasts for a very long time!
Great idea.
why do i keep getting unknown command after I have connected to printer successfully, I type m503 and press enter, I get an OK and then unknown command... help please !!
Sorted !!
Mine says it failed Temperature too high?
Try calibrating at a much lower temperature and then working your way up. For example instead of M303 E0 S250 C8 try M303 E0 S180 C8. This will try and calibrate the first nozzle E0 at 180c trying it 8 times. Depending on your printer and firmware if you try to calibrate at too high of a temperature when it goes above the temperature you specified to triangulate the value it will cause a failure.
Im not getting this to work, stock firmware on E5+.
The original stock firmware did not support PID tuning. Check ANET for an update or update to marlin 2.0
@@MakeWithTech I guess I should have been a bit more clear but I honestly didn't expect anyone to reply. My problem is your program wasn't even connecting my printer. Should I still update to marlin 2.0?
Do you aim to calibrate steps per filament type?
Some people say you can just work this out - if you know the motor steps per rev, and the gearing, and the diameter of the extruder drive cog, you could just work out what the figure should be.
Seems logical, but I wonder if it varies slightly depending on the filament type. For instance, TPU is very flexible. Possibly because it temporarily deforms when fed through the extruder due to back pressure, it might be it does not feed quite as much as - say - PETG. And PETG is slightly softer than PLA.
So, do you think a 'per filament type' check is desirable?
I've also read people saying remove the nozzle and feed filament right through - no back pressure. Again, it seems to me that is not truly representing printing conditions, heating to print temp and feeding through the nozzle seems best as you recommend.
It’s give a Error for my bed E-1 !
Some versions of firmware do not have bed PID calibration enabled.
I have stock ender 5 pro do you know how i can activate that?!
You would need to upgrade the firmware or replace the main control board. I have videos on the channel about both options.
Thanks drvax, it’s a 115 board is that also updatable like in the video ?!
I found that using p1 instead of e-1 works on my ender 5 plus, got an error also for e-1, but am using repetier-host. Here is what I found:The E option is not required on single extruder machines (except Smoothie). To tune the heated bed, use P1 (Repetier), E-1 (Marlin, others), or E1 (Smoothie). On multi-extruder machines, use the number of the extruder you want to tune (starting with 0).
It is not called a pid you pronounce each letter P, I, D. The letters stand for proportional integral derivative.
Your are correct. Thanks.
IRV!!!!!!!
Send: M303 E-1 S60
Recv: PID Autotune failed! Bad extruder number
Recv: ok
enable the option in marlin and re-upload your firmware
people who are watching this are new to printing and you over here saying "going to gcode sender application" as if we know how to get their already
You couldn't be more wrong about lubrication. Using grease or oil on moving parts that are exposed is a critical error that is self defeating. Grease and oil will attract dust and dirt and soon add to the friction you are trying to dissipate. If you feel you must lube something try a dry lube like silicone spray. The only part I was concerned about on my E5+ was the Z axis traveling nut. I cured that by switching to Delrin anti-backlash nuts that never need lube. All of the wheels have double sealed bearings that may eventually need replacing but never lubing. The same is true of the stepper motors. Never lube belts or pulleys.
HATCHBOX Is the S#*T. I made a bad A$$ Cthulu statue out of electric lime hatchbox PETG.
Don't get me wrong... A LOT of ppl obviously like your videos but is this not just a long way of explaining "cross multiplication"? I google 3d stuff all the time looking for answers and your videos come up a LOT but i really hate feeling like i'm being talked to like a kindergarten student... maybe it's just the way you talk to ppl? Condescending...insulting our intelligence? I dunno man, this could have been a 10 minute video? I always find myself going "/sigh" and rolling my eyes. Sorry man... Just being honest. Your fans will hate me for it i'm sure but i don't care. thumbs down...the information is there but i ain't making the connection. sorry. It's creepy. :(
I liked your comment as I am fully supportive of a complete exchange of ideas.
Different people have different learning styles. Clearly, for you, my approach does not work. The good news is that many videos on youtube will work for you.
I use my pace and classical educational techniques, including repetition, allegories, examples, and illustration, because many TH-cam videos about technical topics do not work for people without a technical background or even people with specialized training when the subject is outside of their area of expertise.
Furthermore, I start each video by telling people what I will say to them, I tell them, and then I always summarize at the end.
My approach is not condescending and is instead supportive.
I get that this does not work for you, and the good news is you can switch to another video.
All the best, and thank you for your comment. It allowed me to explain my approach.
a true master of 3d printing, thank you dr. vax