Pro tip for the professionals out there that like to have everything to be perfect. Turn the piece of filament so that way the bow is turning upwards, or I suppose downwards is fine. Then flatten it out and tape the two ends to the table before measuring. That will make your Measurement way more accurate
Yes @SDa.......you bring up an excellent point that I noticed right off. The shortest distance between two points (in this case the most accurate distance or measurement) is a straight line. The video example Jim shows is NOT using a straight line and the filament sample is actually a radius! I worked in Production Automation with CNC’s (3, 4, and 5 axis) making parts for IBM with tolerances of .005mm (.0002 in) using MAFord solid carbide tooling (spade drill, spiral fluted drill @.0057 dia, and end mills @ .093dia) on Delrin 100 and Vespel 500 composite and actually holding half that tolerance. Would never get anywhere with that style of measurement. These videos are informative but when someone shows such a blatant, inaccurate technique I have to say something. Tape on the ends to hold the true length sounds better than what was shown. Perfectionist? Maybe! Professional? Always! CONSISTENCY is the name of the game with CNC production and these printers are basically 3-axis (and the ‘feeder’ for the extruder could be considered a 4th axis) CNC’s using the same Gcode used in Nc’s and CNC’s since the 1950’s. I also have considerable experience programming in Industrial code, Gcode, Mcode, etc. and in about 9 different versions as these languages are often proprietary to a particular machine brand.
Marco. You saved me some frustration. Was about to throw my phone because this was not mentioned in the vid. Thank you. I would say though, after you make adjustments and run a proper 100mm piece, remember to store your settings. I forgot to twice, then remembered seeing that option under control/store settings. Worked great. Thanks again.
@@Juz10xD Me too. I thought his formula was different since i was able to calibrate without using that formula. I also thought that's what he meant by hia formula being confusing is about that but turns out it was about the 93 e steps
@@Juz10xD all good. I was just thinking if my formula was different when i was watching his. And i realised he wrote the formula against all math conventions.
Some parts were a little confusing at first until I pulled out my common sense and then this video was extremely helpful! My printer hasn't been acting right for months even after a few other e-step calibration videos. Finally, everything is working PERFECTLY! Thank you!
This has been a much better guide on how to calculate e-steps. I spent a little bit trying to re-find this video because all of the others just breezed over it. Thanks for being thorough!
Jim, just a tip for this one if you ever re-do this video in the future. Your formulas the way you wrote them up could confuse some. I figured out what you did but here is what might be better. Step 1: 100/Measured Length= n Have the Measure length noted off to the side in a list of your variables. Step 2: Step 1 * Current Estep value. Again have the value for the Current Estep noted in a list on the side instead of in your formula. What one might interpret what you wrote as the following. step 1: 100/(Measured length/87) Step 2: Step 1 X(Current Estep/93). I hope you find this feedback helpful in the future.
@@TheEdgeofTech No problem Jim. I will send you a Google sheets example of what I'm talking about via my business account puppets3Dcreations at Gmail dot com.
Dude.....can't thank you enough. I was virtually done with these Enders. Works like a charm now. The way you explain and walk thorough the steps. You're nothing short of awesome
You're guide completes me. I got my e steps figured out (adjusted to 96 and its dead on 100mm +- 0.2) and my flow rate actually went down to 95%. Thanks for the guide.
To anyone else that might be confused about the flow rate and wall width: The walls of the cube are 2*(nozzle size), so if you have a 0.4mm nozzle you should get a 0.8mm wall after printing!
@@ontariodigger162 there is no need to change anything in Cura, it will always try to print it 0.8mm wide since the 3D model says so (if you use a 0.4mm nozzle and the 0.4mm stl file). Just print it and measure it
I changed my extruder to a dual gear one, and YOU amazing man helped me tune perfectly! Everything was well explained, sooo....THANK YOUUUU!! I love your channel, and I hope your arm healed very nicely!!
@@TheEdgeofTech It's slightly fruystrating that with cura you have to use a plugin to get flow into the per meterial settings despite people asking for it for years at this point.
Is it any surprise you INCREASED your Esteps and now you have to DECREASE your flow? It's not because you got your Estep number correct. All you did was shift the calculations for the end result around.
Had zits / blobs in my exstrution. Tried many thing but since my spool was running low finally got time to go trough these steps. My prints are awesome to perfect in my consideration. Thx man! This was a great help and for now own. flowcube, small test and only need to adjust the flowrate. Thanks for the great explanation! It helped.
Bro. I love your video. My printer is running awesome now. I had NIGHTMARE stringing. I'm new to 3d. 5 days new. Got my Capricorn rolling from last video. Doing my Esteps now. It's rocking and rolling! Thanks!
Thank you so much for this you explained it extremely well without going off at a tangent like quite a few others which just confused the issue. This is the second vide of yours that has helped so I have subscribed. Keep up the good work and a big thank you from London UK
It may be obvious to experienced printers, but I'm a beginner and I don't know what these tweaks improve. I'm having some problems and I'm sure your tweaks won't make them any worse, but I don't know if they'll help with the problems I'm having. What problems are taken care of by doing the two adjustments? Thank you.
Spot-on explaination :) I did some flowrate calibration for the filament spools that are most commonly used when I'm printing things, mostly PLA and PETG. Once filament have been dried, across brands, well, there are subtle differences. From brand to brand, PLA yielded values between 0.95 and 0.98... PETG being either 0.99 or 1 (using PrusaSlicer). Subtle, yet not to be overlooked. Minor changes can produce a world of difference.
At shallow angles of bend, it doesn't make any significant difference. If you know what cosine is, the relationship between the length of the hypotenuse and the side adjacent, the value with a 5 degree bow angle is .9962 so that means that if the actual length of the filament were 100mm long but had a 5 degree bow in it, then you'd measure 99.62mm. Less than half a mm of filament error, but you can always assume your extruder is pushing a little extra, but never less than the amount you measured.
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I go into my cura settings, set the wall thickness to 1 line .4 thickness and slice. The problem is it’s still prints 3 line wall thickness at about .9 when I measure it. How can I print a single line test cube?
Oh wow, when I get my next video out I need to link to this for Estep calculations (I'm doing a beginner lingo 3D printer one). I've watched 3 other videos and read about 4 other websites that had descriptions, and none of them did it as clearly as you did. I appreciate that you showed the equation twice....otherwise you're right, the first time would've been cofusin (I thought heck 100 sounds obvious...it's 100 mm, why wouldnt you set it to 100?). Great video, I'll check out your other work and get subscribed. I know how tough making and editing can be, so to watch you do it with a bum arm was even more impressive :D
quick question here, at 7:18 you state that after you have calibrated your esteps you did the extruding test again and it was spot on. How did you tell the printer about this new esteps? I understand that when I edit the gcode in cura all files slices with this code will have the new step in place, but how will the printer now when it's only extruding filament?
If you have a newer Ender 3, you can do it right in the control panel of the printer. I have a video to show you how. Also, you could do it using Octoprint or Pronterface, and I have a video to show that as well. In this case we used the starting gcode to do it, but that is an old way and the other ways are easier now.
Where do you input the esteps in Prusa? Where did you get the estep command you copied and pasted? what would be the value in Prusa for your flow rate of 105?
If your printer is new enough, I would do it on the control panel of the printer. Or, connect to the computer and do it that way. I have videos on both ways. That's much easier then modifying the gcode.
Thanks so much for this video. At first I was like why would you want to do the free air method for e steps? But after you explained things at the end it makes perfect sense. Been having problems with over extrusion on my Ender 3 Pro and I'm sure this will fix it.
Great video. Only issue I seen is that the filament should be measured when strait. In video it shows being measured when at arc which will result in a shorter then actual measurement
You have a good point. Luckily an arch that wide will likely not impact the measurement enough to be a huge problem. The length difference with that arch and a straight piece is likely somewhere under 0.01 range.
Took me a minute to find. He copied it from the guide he links to under the description. Bettter late than never but hopefully you figured it out already
Finally I found a tutorial on how to calibrate those two values (esteps and flow rate), thanx a lot! Apart from the creatively written small math formula (I figured it out as you explained what you meant in the video) everything was very well explained. Thanks again!
I'm sorry kinda new to this so if I changed my E-steps in my printer why add the code in Cura doesn't it use the step values in the printer already unless you add code to change it? BTW thanks!!
Quick question. My nozzle is 0.8 and it says my wall thickness is 2.4 but the top and bottom walls are 1.55 . when i made my measurements the average was 1.57 But if i use 2.4 as the wall thickness then my flow rate is a crazy 156 and my prints are a glob in seconds. I assume that I should be using the top/bottom thickness of 1.55, because then the flow rate is 98 and the prints look fine. thanks again for the great video!
Great video, but I have one comment. When I see you write the Measured Length then a line with the number underneath, I read that as the measured length divided by #. Maybe just the math nerd in me. You did a great job of talking through it when I went back and actually listened to what you said instead of just reading what you wrote.
@@TheEdgeofTech love the video! I agree with this comment and would add that you could simply edit out the part where your E steps and mm length happened to be the same number :)
My esteps were at 93, that seems to be the default for Ender 3. I extruded 97mm. I put in my new esteps which was 95.8 and extruded again. I got 100mm exactly, right on the dot. You don't want to go over 100. That results in over extrusion.
How does changing the e steps in cura change the settings on the machine if the machine isnt connected or in communication with cura? i know it changes the g code ready for the next file but surely if you come to calibrate your esteps again, the printer will not reference any modified g code when extruding the 100mm of filament and so the calibration will be inaccurate.? This confuses me so could someone enlighten me please? thanks.
This guide assumes alot. The first is that you have a bootloader already done and you have the ender 3 connected to a computer using a program like pronterface, Octoprint etc.. If you don't all this info is useless to you till you get a bootloader on the printer. Once you do your saving the setting through one of the programs also called a terminal to set and save the new settings to the printers eeprom. This is the issue with assumptions, they are the mother of all fu#* ups! Btw 3 weeks ago I was in the same boat as you, not understanding half of the vids out there. Read, read, read. The info is available and vids like this will make sense at some point! Hope this helps you understand!
@@nghtrdr This guide doesn't use any connections to a computer. If you change the starting GCode in Cura, it will add that GCode to any print you slice. Then when you start that print, it will use the new ESteps instead of the default. So if you use this method, and leave that GCode in the starting GCode for the printer, it will work for any file you slice. I do have 2 other videos showing how to change the ESteps right from the machine, or with Octoprint/Pronterface etc. Let me know if that helps clarify the question, and thanks for watching!!
The question is, what if you change/slow speed print i.e. different from what you calculated the flow rate at? i.e. If I calculated flow rate at 80mm print speed, but now If I want to print at 50mm/s or TPU at slow speed. Shall I keep using same calculated %
Luke changed the original file. The first file was one wall, 0.4. Now it is two wall, 0.8. That makes this video a little bit misleading and diffucult to understand if you are new to 3d printing and if mathematics arent your strong side. Thanks for the videos you are making ! It really helps a noob like med =)
My Original E Step was 98.94, My New EStep is 135.534, Approx 136. I type M92 E136 in Octotprint Terminal to modify the current EStep value. Then M500 to write new ESstep value to EEPROM. Then M503 to read saved value. Then I extruded another 100mm and it was spot on,Thank you!
is 93 the default for all Creality products? I know you say that in the video but I have also read conflicting numbers of 93-95 when it comes to the Ender-5 (which is the model I have) Also, The latest version of CURA doesn't allow you to copy and paste from an outside source (Luke's guide). So that being the case does the wording, spacing, grammar have to be exact? Thanks for making this video
Good question. I'm not sure about the other machines. If you use my other video it tells you how to get it off the Printer using Octoprint or Pronterface! Also, yes it needs to be exact for the code part, but the descriptions don't matter.
So....$10 question When you measured the extruded length...did you take into account for the curve (Understanding that you're doing this one-handed - but that was enough curve to add a mm or two to the measurements... (Just wondering if that was "for display" and you did it properly off-camera) A variant of the free-air version is to measure the filament going INTO the extruder. (I have to do this as I have a direct-drive extruder) I mark off 120mm, extrude 100, measure the difference between the mark and what came out, and calculate extruded length from that. (so if I have 25mm left to the mark, I only extruded 95mm)
Hi! that is one of the biggest comments I get on this video lol I did measure it straight with the help of my wife at the time. for video sake I could not straighten it and I should have taped it to the table. But yes you always measure a straight and in my experience it's easier to do it that way. Then just run a test cube can you get your flu rate with the filament you're using and you're done. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great videos! When slicing Lukes .8 cube test which profile should I use? Super .12, Dynamic .16 Standard .2 Then set the Shell wall thickness to.8 which gives 2 walls. (Ender 5 plus with .4 mm nozzle) Only adjusting the temps for PLA + (210 nozzle 65 bed)
I would have to go look but I think he put that on his thingiverse page. It should say what settings to use when printing it. I'm watching a movie currently so I can't do it, but let me know if you can't find it.
Another question... your measurement shows the filament as CURVED in the vid at 7:27 which makes the new length > than the 100.64 shown so the real measurement seems like it should be LONGER than stated. No? Am I missing something? Like maybe the NEW e-steps number should have been 106 or lower instead of 107? What am I missing? You’re the expert(s)... other than that, REALLY CLEAR explanation... but I’m Math Boy... 🤓😎🤪🤣👅
When I did my calculations I had my wife hold it straight off camera. I should have shown that. But When I filmed I couldn't show it straight because of the broken arm. The calculations should be correct and I have updated them in the description too.
So how do you verify the E-steps for the Z-Axis stepper motor (or either the X and Y for that matter)? Do you still set like 100 mm and have the Z-axis raise be 100 and do that same calculation? How do I know the presets are correct? Currently, our extruder seems to drag across the infill after a certain height.
Does this work if my Baby came with a REAL Capricorn tube and a touchscreen not a crappy Bowden and not even a BTT TFT? Love my CR-10S Pro with its bigger build volume.and built-in advanced feature. 🤪🤓🤣
I have the same problem that's been going on for weeks but now my printer is printing so I can't adjust my flow rate. Here is my problem : My first layer prints flawlessly, it's smooth and got the perfect amount of squish. However, the second layer gets messy and bumpy because the nozzle is too close to the first layer. When I increase the babystep z setting while printing the second layer, it becomes smooth, which leaves me to think the second, third, etc layers print 0.1mm to close to the bed while the first one is good. Aside from the Esteps, what could cause this? You seem to know your stuff so I'm trying to ask you here. Thank you !
@@TheEdgeofTech i'm using 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 line width. I just found out today that altough my esteps were right on, my flow was almost 20% too high, causing it to make thickee lines than they need to(0.91mm instead of 0.8 for example). Adjusting the flow definitely improved it. It's not perfect but way better
I just upgraded to a Dual Gear Extruder. My e steps calibration came out to 144.824 to give perfect 100mm extrusion. I saved this to the eSteps in the EEprom. Do I still add the code M92 E145; to the start code for my printer in Cura? In your video you show your calculated value for eSteps qs 107 but you cadd M92 E100 to the start code. Is this an oops?
Great video, very helpful thank you! I’m new to 3D printing and your videos have helped me from assembly to successful prints! Question what is the blue thing around your fan?
When you said you don't have to change it unless you change the extruder or the gear. If you change the gear but with the same amount of teeth are you still good to go or does that change anything. I ordered new gears and noticed they have 26 teeth and I think my ender pro came with a 41 tooth gear. I didn't count the original gear but that's what is on order.
What did I miss. I dig all your vids. How did you calculate 100mm to pass through the extruder only? I looked back but Im confused. I did order the new one on your link just now.
Why do you suggest copying the new g-code into the start up g-code in Cura? Why can't I just enter that number into my printer via the Control/Motion/Esteps setting and be done with it?
thanks bud after banging my head against the wall I couldn't figure out why my ender 3 was printing weak under extruded Prints and then I came across your video and figured out that my printer had the wrong e-steps setting in and it was only extruding about half of what it should have been extruding after I put the new values in everything was good
Not sure if I am repeating others, but the math is simpler: the printer did N steps (NS) and advanced L (in mm) so: NS*93=L, you want NS*Estep=100, so Estep = 100/L*93
ok, so here are some questions about all this.... where did you get the E100 value from to put into cura, you were saying 107, then you switched to a line of code(???) where did you get the code from??? then you entered it into cura, wouldn't you enter it into the Ender 3 setting and click on save settings?? this kinda makes for more confusion than answers.
I think I missed a part around 5:50. So my estep was 98.36 you show dividing 100 by my estep which is 98.32 in this case which gets me 1.0204. then you just reverse the math which of course gives me back 100. I'm confused where you used the 1.0204 result? When you change the gcode you put in E100 from E0. Do we not touch any setting in the ender 3?
I’ve just noticed that on Cura 4.6.1 when I make these measurements and enter 0.4 wall thickness with 1 wall Cura prints the same size cube and doesn’t actually extrude the corrected flow rate. Example, flow set at 100% cube comes out at 4.7 thickness, flow set at 60% I get same 4.7 thickness.. so it seems right now that Cura is broken! Same with 2 walls 0.8 thickness.
Appreciated this video very much. I used PLA filament to calibrate the eStep and flow very successfully. Question: Just for fun I tried it with TPU and got a measurement of 18mm shorter than PLA. Should that value be that different, and if so, should I be calibrating eSteps based on the material I'm using each time?
Hi. Do you adjust the E steps on the machine, the slicer g code or both. Thanks. I have adjusted it in the machine and am getting 100mm on test but unsure if i also need to add the g code to the slicer. My Ender 3 Pro is stock apart from swapping the board for a 1.1.5 silent board. Thanks
Thanks for the reply. I will leave it at that for now then and do the flow calculations when i have my Calipers back from work. I have been printing for a little while with what i think is a very good quality finish with out ever doing these calibrations (i did find them quite a way out though) but have only noticed problems when trying to print moving parts. I cant seem to get the clearness correct for free movement. Im stating back from the beginning and going over all the basics including steps I obviously skipped in the set up eager to get printing.
In the Video the measured lengths have a bit of a curve to them, to me that means the measurement is low, is this something I should be concerned with?
When I filmed the video I had a broken arm. I had my wife help with the measurements that I used to dial in. But for filming, I couldn't straighten them out myself. Always make sure it's straight so you get the most accurate measurement!
Great video..For a guy thats new to this 3d prints, only had my first 3d printer for 1 week now and thought my prints was good, but this estep and flow calibration made my prints way better!!
What if (after doing all the steps up to cutting off what is extruded) you only get 40mm? That is WAY off. The stock motherboard printed nicely. But once I installed a silent motherboard, I was getting lightweight, bad prints. Someone mentioned check esteps, and here I am. Ideas?
Hey, I will double check the description, but the help guide should be linked there. If possible I would do this right on the printer or by hooking the printer up to the computer if possible. I have videos on both ways and that's a way better solution.
What can you do to reduce the deviation in the 8 measured values at the 11 min mark? In this example, the difference between his min and max measurements was 0.9mm (0.31 to 0.44). This can be significant when trying to print parts with little tolerance, as I have found when trying to print a picam mount on my Ender 3 Pro. It was suggested that I calibrate my machine using this process and that helped me get the line width closer to what it should be, but it still deviates from 0.4mm.
Good video. The math formulas are expressed incorrectly: 100 / (Current measured length) * 93 = (New e-Step) Also you don't actually need to snip off the filament. Just trim the ends and measure with the caliper's upper jaws (used for inside measurements) against the extruder to the tip of the filament.
I just went and printed a temperature tower and realized I didn't see much difference the whole way up and I watched the temps on my LCD for each change. So I'm sticking with the stock Cura setting of 200. I'm just printing my last single walled cube for flow rates and slapping a sticker on all 4 spools that I have. I think the flow rate matters way more than temperature does just from experimenting.
Ok, looking at the code on the start up. How does the new code I'm putting in the start up help. About 8 lines down the G-code it resets back to 0 just after the code for G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extrudor
Thank you so much for this video. I saw a lot of people talking about Esteps and flow but I couldn't find a good explanation. This however is a very good video!
I'm running a Stock Cr-10s that I put an all aluminum extruder on and want to check my E-steps , I get to the part at extrude 100mm and my machine wont let me go past 47mm and freezes up when trying to move at 1mm at a time , if I try at .1mm it freezes up at 27m....what is happening any help please.
Nope! If your hardware allows for that, go ahead! It wasn't an option at the time of filming and I made another video about that when the feature came out! Thanks for watching!
@@TheEdgeofTech awesome man thanks..,im running the BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 v1.2 board on my ender 3 (not pro) so wasn't sure,just got to do the flow rate but im hesitant to touch it now its printing so good,but next step is to stiffen up the single thin Y rail and make the runners wider as I think that's where a lot of levelling issues come from because the wheels are so close together on a single rail. keep up the good work.
Oh that free air method is naughty! Better than trying to piss around with a sharpie pen trying to mark a curly piece of filament with my shitty cheap amazon callipers *Had to add, fantastic video. Great clarity, Thankyou sir!! Your to the point clear instructions have saved me from many hours of frustration trying to trial and error this Thankyou
Later in the video I add the GCode to the starting Gcode section in Cura. If you have a newer Printer or you can connect it to your computer, I suggest changing it that way. There are a couple videos after this one to show you how to do that each way. Its better than adding the GCode.
I tried this process on the Ender 5 Pro, and could not get the extruder to function. I heated the nozzle, did the auto home thing, and set the 100mm extrusion, but it only seems to extrude when there is an active print.
I have set up the cube wall thickness 0.8mm (2lines x 0.4mm line width), infill 0 and as an outcome I have two lines printed but separated from each other (ca. 0.5mm). what to change in cura to eliminate this gap and print these 2 lines that are in contact? thx
Doing these steps, gives me 232.5. First time I ran 3 100s. Came with 40mm each that was pushed. By doing your math I’d have to run mine up to 232.5. With my high temps by Extruder is clicking like hell. But I’m pushing 99mm each time after saving the setting. I’m not worried about doing cura file as I can set my e steps to my printer itself. Any other ideas?
Should I be concerned if one of my walls on the calibration cube is significantly smaller than the rest (specifically the back wall). All the other measurements are within .05 of each other except the rear wall as it sits on the print bed which is 0.1-0.15 off from the rest. Happens every time across multiple different PLAs. If so, what can I look at adjusting to change it (Ender 3 btw)?
Maybe someone has already asked this question or it's not necessary, but would you need to do this after upgrading to a direct drive extruder? I have an Ender 3 Pro. Thanks!
When i turn the dial to extrude 100mm (adding 100 to whatever number is already in the machine), i extrude a piece that is about 105.5mm. When i first turn my printer on and go to the same extruder setting, the number is 0, so i change it to 100mm. It only extrudes 44.5mm. Why the difference in extrusion when first turning the machine on and after i have done a print already?
Great video! I have 2 questions: Why must you remove the coupler after removing the boden tube? Can't the filament be cut flush at the coupler? Then... you auto-homed before performing the measurement. I don't quite understand what that accomplishes. And I guess I have 3 questions. When I did this and went to 'move axis', my Extruder (axis) read out +000.0, yours had a value. Why was that?
Mine has a number because I probably moved it before when I was filming. It won't matter if you have a number, when you turn the know the number will go up or down from there. Also, you can try doing it like that to save time if you want! :)
Okay loving this :) . I have calibrated my ender 3 pro perfectly so a big thank you for that . The little guy has been chugging away for months now. my only question is. I have a cr10 s5 and have done the hot end mod and calibrated the extruder (free air method) 96.5 and i get 100mm. When it comes to flow I got a calculation of 114 as it was printing walls at 0.70. what is 114 deemed as too high?. is this okay :/ just seems excessive compared to my ender. but then again this thing is huge . Thanks heaps again your a legend.
my boden coupler is locktited or something into a little ring it screws into that sides into the PLASTIC extruder housing, and I cant turn it for the life of me, and the pliers I have are chewing up the little ring it screws into just trying to provide counter-torque...
Pro tip for the professionals out there that like to have everything to be perfect. Turn the piece of filament so that way the bow is turning upwards, or I suppose downwards is fine. Then flatten it out and tape the two ends to the table before measuring. That will make your Measurement way more accurate
You can also drop the filament in boiling water for a minute then take it out and straighten it while it’s flexible
Yes @SDa.......you bring up an excellent point that I noticed right off.
The shortest distance between two points (in this case the most accurate distance or measurement) is a straight line. The video example Jim shows is NOT using a straight line and the filament sample is actually a radius! I worked in Production Automation with CNC’s (3, 4, and 5 axis) making parts for IBM with tolerances of .005mm (.0002 in) using MAFord solid carbide tooling (spade drill, spiral fluted drill @.0057 dia, and end mills @ .093dia) on Delrin 100 and Vespel 500 composite and actually holding half that tolerance. Would never get anywhere with that style of measurement. These videos are informative but when someone shows such a blatant, inaccurate technique I have to say something.
Tape on the ends to hold the true length sounds better than what was shown.
Perfectionist? Maybe! Professional? Always! CONSISTENCY is the name of the game with CNC production and these printers are basically 3-axis (and the ‘feeder’ for the extruder could be considered a 4th axis) CNC’s using the same Gcode used in Nc’s and CNC’s since the 1950’s. I also have considerable experience programming in Industrial code, Gcode, Mcode, etc. and in about 9 different versions as these languages are often proprietary to a particular machine brand.
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Click Control > Motion, then scroll down to “E-steps/mm” and change it to your new E-step value.
And by doing that we don’t have to change anything from cura, right?
@@fitopineda5192 Correct.
If we change the value in “E-steps/mm” ...Do you still have to change it in Prusa?
Thank you for this.. I’ve got 13 printers.. Didn’t want to adjust the Cura settings when only one of my machines is acting up.
Marco. You saved me some frustration. Was about to throw my phone because this was not mentioned in the vid. Thank you. I would say though, after you make adjustments and run a proper 100mm piece, remember to store your settings. I forgot to twice, then remembered seeing that option under control/store settings. Worked great. Thanks again.
Thank you!!!! Also putting those distance names over the distance looks like another division equation. Hella confusing
I was trying to figure out that whole division line in the second figure til i saw your comment
@@Juz10xD Me too. I thought his formula was different since i was able to calibrate without using that formula. I also thought that's what he meant by hia formula being confusing is about that but turns out it was about the 93 e steps
@@SimplyV3rna I'm not sure, I followed his formula after figuring out that division misinterpretation and had no issues
@@Juz10xD all good. I was just thinking if my formula was different when i was watching his. And i realised he wrote the formula against all math conventions.
The formula is 100 / mesaureLength * currentEStep = newEStep
Some parts were a little confusing at first until I pulled out my common sense and then this video was extremely helpful! My printer hasn't been acting right for months even after a few other e-step calibration videos. Finally, everything is working PERFECTLY! Thank you!
This has been a much better guide on how to calculate e-steps. I spent a little bit trying to re-find this video because all of the others just breezed over it. Thanks for being thorough!
Jim, just a tip for this one if you ever re-do this video in the future. Your formulas the way you wrote them up could confuse some. I figured out what you did but here is what might be better. Step 1: 100/Measured Length= n Have the Measure length noted off to the side in a list of your variables. Step 2: Step 1 * Current Estep value. Again have the value for the Current Estep noted in a list on the side instead of in your formula.
What one might interpret what you wrote as the following. step 1: 100/(Measured length/87) Step 2: Step 1 X(Current Estep/93).
I hope you find this feedback helpful in the future.
Thank you for the feedback!! I appreciate it!
@@TheEdgeofTech No Problem Jim.
@@TheEdgeofTech No problem Jim. I will send you a Google sheets example of what I'm talking about via my business account puppets3Dcreations at Gmail dot com.
Yea so 100 / ( 93/93) is 100...
Dude.....can't thank you enough. I was virtually done with these Enders. Works like a charm now. The way you explain and walk thorough the steps. You're nothing short of awesome
You're guide completes me. I got my e steps figured out (adjusted to 96 and its dead on 100mm +- 0.2) and my flow rate actually went down to 95%.
Thanks for the guide.
To anyone else that might be confused about the flow rate and wall width:
The walls of the cube are 2*(nozzle size), so if you have a 0.4mm nozzle you should get a 0.8mm wall after printing!
I have the same problem, set cura to 1 line wall, .4 thickness, and it prints the 3 wall line still
@@ontariodigger162 there is no need to change anything in Cura, it will always try to print it 0.8mm wide since the 3D model says so (if you use a 0.4mm nozzle and the 0.4mm stl file). Just print it and measure it
no lol. A .4 nozzle should be a .4 wall
@@pubexploit6782 yes, but it prints two walls = .8 mm :)
@@SweCookie I'm saying for just 1 wall:)
oh my gosh, this just made this SO much easier for me. I really appreciate it
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
I changed my extruder to a dual gear one, and YOU amazing man helped me tune perfectly! Everything was well explained, sooo....THANK YOUUUU!! I love your channel, and I hope your arm healed very nicely!!
Thanks!! I'm glad it helped!
Have you been having to calibrate flow per material too? I did the same mod with my ender 3 and now I have to.
@@TheAkashicTraveller That's good practice, so the correct answer is yes you should. But many people just go with the flow and keep it the same.
@@TheEdgeofTech It's slightly fruystrating that with cura you have to use a plugin to get flow into the per meterial settings despite people asking for it for years at this point.
Finally!!! This video in combination with other videos helped me find peace after sleepless nights!!!
thank you for the great video,
my E-steps was 93 now is 97.8,
flow rate 100% reduced it to 84.7%,
perfect results, well done.....
Same here, E-step went to 98 and flow to 87%, pretty close at least. Ender 3 printing Generic ABS.
Glad you mentioned that. I was also confused as my esteps went only a little bit up (95.7 on Direct Drive). I am also clocking in a 83-84%.
Is it any surprise you INCREASED your Esteps and now you have to DECREASE your flow? It's not because you got your Estep number correct. All you did was shift the calculations for the end result around.
Mine went to 68%!? How's this possible? Testing now.
When printing now there is spaces between the line, I increased the flow rate to 90. Why this happen?
Had zits / blobs in my exstrution. Tried many thing but since my spool was running low finally got time to go trough these steps.
My prints are awesome to perfect in my consideration. Thx man! This was a great help and for now own. flowcube, small test and only need to adjust the flowrate.
Thanks for the great explanation! It helped.
Awesome! I am glad to hear it helped, and thanks for watching!!!
Bro. I love your video. My printer is running awesome now. I had NIGHTMARE stringing. I'm new to 3d. 5 days new. Got my Capricorn rolling from last video. Doing my Esteps now. It's rocking and rolling! Thanks!
Great news!! I'm glad You're rolling now! Thanks for watching!!
Thank you so much for this you explained it extremely well without going off at a tangent like quite a few others which just confused the issue. This is the second vide of yours that has helped so I have subscribed. Keep up the good work and a big thank you from London UK
It may be obvious to experienced printers, but I'm a beginner and I don't know what these tweaks improve. I'm having some problems and I'm sure your tweaks won't make them any worse, but I don't know if they'll help with the problems I'm having. What problems are taken care of by doing the two adjustments? Thank you.
Spot-on explaination :)
I did some flowrate calibration for the filament spools that are most commonly used when I'm printing things, mostly PLA and PETG.
Once filament have been dried, across brands, well, there are subtle differences. From brand to brand, PLA yielded values between 0.95 and 0.98... PETG being either 0.99 or 1 (using PrusaSlicer).
Subtle, yet not to be overlooked. Minor changes can produce a world of difference.
Great tip! It's always good to check the flow rate with all your filaments to be spot on!
Yes :) Still have to do it for TPU, nylon, and ABS. When the printer will be repaired and enclosed...
Outstanding tutorial! very clear and easy to follow. Thanks
When you measured the 100mm the filament was bent slightly. Does that make a difference? Should I hold it down straight?
came to ask this exact question
At shallow angles of bend, it doesn't make any significant difference. If you know what cosine is, the relationship between the length of the hypotenuse and the side adjacent, the value with a 5 degree bow angle is .9962 so that means that if the actual length of the filament were 100mm long but had a 5 degree bow in it, then you'd measure 99.62mm. Less than half a mm of filament error, but you can always assume your extruder is pushing a little extra, but never less than the amount you measured.
@@HuFlungDung2 thanks or the explanation!
Gotta say man your channel has been my goto for my 3D printing solutions. Thanks for the videos
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong.
I go into my cura settings, set the wall thickness to 1 line .4 thickness and slice. The problem is it’s still prints 3 line wall thickness at about .9 when I measure it.
How can I print a single line test cube?
Oh wow, when I get my next video out I need to link to this for Estep calculations (I'm doing a beginner lingo 3D printer one). I've watched 3 other videos and read about 4 other websites that had descriptions, and none of them did it as clearly as you did. I appreciate that you showed the equation twice....otherwise you're right, the first time would've been cofusin (I thought heck 100 sounds obvious...it's 100 mm, why wouldnt you set it to 100?). Great video, I'll check out your other work and get subscribed. I know how tough making and editing can be, so to watch you do it with a bum arm was even more impressive :D
quick question here,
at 7:18 you state that after you have calibrated your esteps you did the extruding test again and it was spot on. How did you tell the printer about this new esteps?
I understand that when I edit the gcode in cura all files slices with this code will have the new step in place, but how will the printer now when it's only extruding filament?
If you have a newer Ender 3, you can do it right in the control panel of the printer. I have a video to show you how. Also, you could do it using Octoprint or Pronterface, and I have a video to show that as well. In this case we used the starting gcode to do it, but that is an old way and the other ways are easier now.
Where do you input the esteps in Prusa? Where did you get the estep command you copied and pasted? what would be the value in Prusa for your flow rate of 105?
If your printer is new enough, I would do it on the control panel of the printer. Or, connect to the computer and do it that way. I have videos on both ways. That's much easier then modifying the gcode.
Thanks so much for this video. At first I was like why would you want to do the free air method for e steps? But after you explained things at the end it makes perfect sense. Been having problems with over extrusion on my Ender 3 Pro and I'm sure this will fix it.
Awesome! I hope it worked!
Used this on mine today. Great tutorial when combined with your other video on how the new E3 can set E-steps from the screen.
Great video. Only issue I seen is that the filament should be measured when strait. In video it shows being measured when at arc which will result in a shorter then actual measurement
You have a good point. Luckily an arch that wide will likely not impact the measurement enough to be a huge problem. The length difference with that arch and a straight piece is likely somewhere under 0.01 range.
Where did he copy that line of gcode from? That's the only part I didn't understand.
Took me a minute to find. He copied it from the guide he links to under the description. Bettter late than never but hopefully you figured it out already
@@dabbingdaily8929 At least it’s helpfull for other viewers! ;)
Finally I found a tutorial on how to calibrate those two values (esteps and flow rate), thanx a lot! Apart from the creatively written small math formula (I figured it out as you explained what you meant in the video) everything was very well explained. Thanks again!
Thanks for mentioning the 'algebra that isn't algebra' . So in this case the divide line should read (or in our example).
I'm sorry kinda new to this so if I changed my E-steps in my printer why add the code in Cura doesn't it use the step values in the printer already unless you add code to change it? BTW thanks!!
Quick question. My nozzle is 0.8 and it says my wall thickness is 2.4 but the top and bottom walls are 1.55 . when i made my measurements the average was 1.57 But if i use 2.4 as the wall thickness then my flow rate is a crazy 156 and my prints are a glob in seconds. I assume that I should be using the top/bottom thickness of 1.55, because then the flow rate is 98 and the prints look fine. thanks again for the great video!
Great video, but I have one comment. When I see you write the Measured Length then a line with the number underneath, I read that as the measured length divided by #. Maybe just the math nerd in me. You did a great job of talking through it when I went back and actually listened to what you said instead of just reading what you wrote.
Thanks for watching and for the feedback! I appreciate it!
@@TheEdgeofTech love the video! I agree with this comment and would add that you could simply edit out the part where your E steps and mm length happened to be the same number :)
My esteps were at 93, that seems to be the default for Ender 3. I extruded 97mm. I put in my new esteps which was 95.8 and extruded again. I got 100mm exactly, right on the dot. You don't want to go over 100. That results in over extrusion.
How does changing the e steps in cura change the settings on the machine if the machine isnt connected or in communication with cura? i know it changes the g code ready for the next file but surely if you come to calibrate your esteps again, the printer will not reference any modified g code when extruding the 100mm of filament and so the calibration will be inaccurate.? This confuses me so could someone enlighten me please? thanks.
This guide assumes alot. The first is that you have a bootloader already done and you have the ender 3 connected to a computer using a program like pronterface, Octoprint etc.. If you don't all this info is useless to you till you get a bootloader on the printer. Once you do your saving the setting through one of the programs also called a terminal to set and save the new settings to the printers eeprom.
This is the issue with assumptions, they are the mother of all fu#* ups!
Btw 3 weeks ago I was in the same boat as you, not understanding half of the vids out there. Read, read, read. The info is available and vids like this will make sense at some point!
Hope this helps you understand!
@@nghtrdr This guide doesn't use any connections to a computer. If you change the starting GCode in Cura, it will add that GCode to any print you slice. Then when you start that print, it will use the new ESteps instead of the default. So if you use this method, and leave that GCode in the starting GCode for the printer, it will work for any file you slice. I do have 2 other videos showing how to change the ESteps right from the machine, or with Octoprint/Pronterface etc. Let me know if that helps clarify the question, and thanks for watching!!
The question is, what if you change/slow speed print i.e. different from what you calculated the flow rate at? i.e. If I calculated flow rate at 80mm print speed, but now If I want to print at 50mm/s or TPU at slow speed. Shall I keep using same calculated %
Luke changed the original file. The first file was one wall, 0.4.
Now it is two wall, 0.8.
That makes this video a little bit misleading and diffucult to understand if you are new to 3d printing and if mathematics arent your strong side.
Thanks for the videos you are making ! It really helps a noob like med =)
This could be easily changed with Wall line count set to 1 :)
My Original E Step was 98.94, My New EStep is 135.534, Approx 136. I type M92 E136 in Octotprint Terminal to modify the current EStep value. Then M500 to write new ESstep value to EEPROM. Then M503 to read saved value. Then I extruded another 100mm and it was spot on,Thank you!
is 93 the default for all Creality products? I know you say that in the video but I have also read conflicting numbers of 93-95 when it comes to the Ender-5 (which is the model I have) Also, The latest version of CURA doesn't allow you to copy and paste from an outside source (Luke's guide). So that being the case does the wording, spacing, grammar have to be exact? Thanks for making this video
Good question. I'm not sure about the other machines. If you use my other video it tells you how to get it off the Printer using Octoprint or Pronterface! Also, yes it needs to be exact for the code part, but the descriptions don't matter.
So....$10 question When you measured the extruded length...did you take into account for the curve (Understanding that you're doing this one-handed - but that was enough curve to add a mm or two to the measurements... (Just wondering if that was "for display" and you did it properly off-camera)
A variant of the free-air version is to measure the filament going INTO the extruder. (I have to do this as I have a direct-drive extruder) I mark off 120mm, extrude 100, measure the difference between the mark and what came out, and calculate extruded length from that. (so if I have 25mm left to the mark, I only extruded 95mm)
Hi! that is one of the biggest comments I get on this video lol I did measure it straight with the help of my wife at the time. for video sake I could not straighten it and I should have taped it to the table. But yes you always measure a straight and in my experience it's easier to do it that way. Then just run a test cube can you get your flu rate with the filament you're using and you're done. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great videos! When slicing Lukes .8 cube test which profile should I use? Super .12, Dynamic .16 Standard .2 Then set the Shell wall thickness to.8 which gives 2 walls. (Ender 5 plus with .4 mm nozzle) Only adjusting the temps for PLA + (210 nozzle 65 bed)
I would have to go look but I think he put that on his thingiverse page. It should say what settings to use when printing it. I'm watching a movie currently so I can't do it, but let me know if you can't find it.
Another question... your measurement shows the filament as CURVED in the vid at 7:27 which makes the new length > than the 100.64 shown so the real measurement seems like it should be LONGER than stated. No? Am I missing something? Like maybe the NEW e-steps number should have been 106 or lower instead of 107? What am I missing? You’re the expert(s)... other than that, REALLY CLEAR explanation... but I’m Math Boy... 🤓😎🤪🤣👅
When I did my calculations I had my wife hold it straight off camera. I should have shown that. But When I filmed I couldn't show it straight because of the broken arm. The calculations should be correct and I have updated them in the description too.
Hey thanks for the idea of taking the tube off and just cutting it. Much easier than marking the filament on the other side of the extruder.
Love this guy, he is so cool. Could deffo go for a beer with him in the pub.
OMG this saved my sanity, I was going nuts trying to figure out what was wrong. A million thanks.
So how do you verify the E-steps for the Z-Axis stepper motor (or either the X and Y for that matter)? Do you still set like 100 mm and have the Z-axis raise be 100 and do that same calculation? How do I know the presets are correct? Currently, our extruder seems to drag across the infill after a certain height.
Does this work if my Baby came with a REAL Capricorn tube and a touchscreen not a crappy Bowden and not even a BTT TFT? Love my CR-10S Pro with its bigger build volume.and built-in advanced feature. 🤪🤓🤣
This method will work with any hotend that uses a bowden tube!
Awesome.. I've watched several videos about this subject and your video is by far the best. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!!
Awesome video. Will this line of code also work in prusaslicer? I'm assuming it will but its always good to double check.
I didn't really understand anything about the second/third part until the end of the video, then it all clicked haha. Thanks a lot for this
I have the same problem that's been going on for weeks but now my printer is printing so I can't adjust my flow rate. Here is my problem : My first layer prints flawlessly, it's smooth and got the perfect amount of squish. However, the second layer gets messy and bumpy because the nozzle is too close to the first layer. When I increase the babystep z setting while printing the second layer, it becomes smooth, which leaves me to think the second, third, etc layers print 0.1mm to close to the bed while the first one is good. Aside from the Esteps, what could cause this? You seem to know your stuff so I'm trying to ask you here. Thank you !
What layer height are you using?
@@TheEdgeofTech i'm using 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 line width. I just found out today that altough my esteps were right on, my flow was almost 20% too high, causing it to make thickee lines than they need to(0.91mm instead of 0.8 for example). Adjusting the flow definitely improved it. It's not perfect but way better
@@charlie_mk7.5 That would do it! Sounds like over extrusion but you getting close!
Like and Subscribed, Jim. Looking forward to upgrading and improving my Ender 3
I just upgraded to a Dual Gear Extruder. My e steps calibration came out to 144.824 to give perfect 100mm extrusion. I saved this to the eSteps in the EEprom. Do I still add the code M92 E145; to the start code for my printer in Cura? In your video you show your calculated value for eSteps qs 107 but you cadd M92 E100 to the start code. Is this an oops?
If you saved it on the printer, you don't need to do it in the gcode! You are good to go!
Great video, very helpful thank you! I’m new to 3D printing and your videos have helped me from assembly to successful prints! Question what is the blue thing around your fan?
When you said you don't have to change it unless you change the extruder or the gear. If you change the gear but with the same amount of teeth are you still good to go or does that change anything. I ordered new gears and noticed they have 26 teeth and I think my ender pro came with a 41 tooth gear. I didn't count the original gear but that's what is on order.
I would check it to be safe!
Where do you copy the first gcode from?
What did I miss. I dig all your vids. How did you calculate 100mm to pass through the extruder only? I looked back but Im confused. I did order the new one on your link just now.
Why do you suggest copying the new g-code into the start up g-code in Cura? Why can't I just enter that number into my printer via the Control/Motion/Esteps setting and be done with it?
thanks bud after banging my head against the wall I couldn't figure out why my ender 3 was printing weak under extruded Prints and then I came across your video and figured out that my printer had the wrong e-steps setting in and it was only extruding about half of what it should have been extruding after I put the new values in everything was good
Not sure if I am repeating others, but the math is simpler: the printer did N steps (NS) and advanced L (in mm) so: NS*93=L, you want NS*Estep=100, so Estep = 100/L*93
ok, so here are some questions about all this.... where did you get the E100 value from to put into cura, you were saying 107, then you switched to a line of code(???) where did you get the code from??? then you entered it into cura, wouldn't you enter it into the Ender 3 setting and click on save settings?? this kinda makes for more confusion than answers.
I think I missed a part around 5:50. So my estep was 98.36 you show dividing 100 by my estep which is 98.32 in this case which gets me 1.0204. then you just reverse the math which of course gives me back 100. I'm confused where you used the 1.0204 result? When you change the gcode you put in E100 from E0. Do we not touch any setting in the ender 3?
I updated the math in the description to be more clear. I hope that helps!
I’ve just noticed that on Cura 4.6.1 when I make these measurements and enter 0.4 wall thickness with 1 wall Cura prints the same size cube and doesn’t actually extrude the corrected flow rate. Example, flow set at 100% cube comes out at 4.7 thickness, flow set at 60% I get same 4.7 thickness.. so it seems right now that Cura is broken! Same with 2 walls 0.8 thickness.
Appreciated this video very much. I used PLA filament to calibrate the eStep and flow very successfully. Question: Just for fun I tried it with TPU and got a measurement of 18mm shorter than PLA. Should that value be that different, and if so, should I be calibrating eSteps based on the material I'm using each time?
That's a great question. I have always only done it once. The dialed in the flow rate. But I may have to look into flexibles and see if it changes.
Hi. Do you adjust the E steps on the machine, the slicer g code or both. Thanks. I have adjusted it in the machine and am getting 100mm on test but unsure if i also need to add the g code to the slicer. My Ender 3 Pro is stock apart from swapping the board for a 1.1.5 silent board. Thanks
If you can do it right on the machine, that's the best way! You don't need to out it in the GCode.
Thanks for the reply. I will leave it at that for now then and do the flow calculations when i have my Calipers back from work. I have been printing for a little while with what i think is a very good quality finish with out ever doing these calibrations (i did find them quite a way out though) but have only noticed problems when trying to print moving parts. I cant seem to get the clearness correct for free movement. Im stating back from the beginning and going over all the basics including steps I obviously skipped in the set up eager to get printing.
@@jamesace1990 Awesome! You will get it dialed in!
When extruding the 100mm of filament why not use the 10mm increments instead of the 1mm? Does it make a difference?
In the Video the measured lengths have a bit of a curve to them, to me that means the measurement is low, is this something I should be concerned with?
I'm wondering the same thing...
When I filmed the video I had a broken arm. I had my wife help with the measurements that I used to dial in. But for filming, I couldn't straighten them out myself. Always make sure it's straight so you get the most accurate measurement!
Hahah oh.. that makes sense 😂
Hope your arm is doing better
Gotta get the arm straight before he can straighten the filament :p
Great video..For a guy thats new to this 3d prints, only had my first 3d printer for 1 week now and thought my prints was good, but this estep and flow calibration made my prints way better!!
What if (after doing all the steps up to cutting off what is extruded) you only get 40mm? That is WAY off. The stock motherboard printed nicely. But once I installed a silent motherboard, I was getting lightweight, bad prints. Someone mentioned check esteps, and here I am. Ideas?
Wish the gcode alteration was in the notes so i can copy and paste but thanks alot this helped me a fton
Hey, I will double check the description, but the help guide should be linked there. If possible I would do this right on the printer or by hooking the printer up to the computer if possible. I have videos on both ways and that's a way better solution.
I definitely like the videos I would like to see some of these videos updated new firmware technology and changes 🤘
Thanks man. For the first time someone explained these 2 important steps so that even a knob like me can understand it 😂👍🏼
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
What can you do to reduce the deviation in the 8 measured values at the 11 min mark? In this example, the difference between his min and max measurements was 0.9mm (0.31 to 0.44). This can be significant when trying to print parts with little tolerance, as I have found when trying to print a picam mount on my Ender 3 Pro. It was suggested that I calibrate my machine using this process and that helped me get the line width closer to what it should be, but it still deviates from 0.4mm.
Good video.
The math formulas are expressed incorrectly:
100 / (Current measured length) * 93 = (New e-Step)
Also you don't actually need to snip off the filament. Just trim the ends and measure with the caliper's upper jaws (used for inside measurements) against the extruder to the tip of the filament.
I just went and printed a temperature tower and realized I didn't see much difference the whole way up and I watched the temps on my LCD for each change. So I'm sticking with the stock Cura setting of 200. I'm just printing my last single walled cube for flow rates and slapping a sticker on all 4 spools that I have. I think the flow rate matters way more than temperature does just from experimenting.
Ok, looking at the code on the start up. How does the new code I'm putting in the start up help.
About 8 lines down the G-code it resets back to 0 just after the code for
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extrudor
Is it necessary to add the line to the gcode? Why don’t you just save the settings on the printer?
Thank you so much for this video. I saw a lot of people talking about Esteps and flow but I couldn't find a good explanation. This however is a very good video!
Glad it was helpful!
I'm running a Stock Cr-10s that I put an all aluminum extruder on and want to check my E-steps , I get to the part at extrude 100mm and my machine wont let me go past 47mm and freezes up when trying to move at 1mm at a time , if I try at .1mm it freezes up at 27m....what is happening any help please.
Awesome video. At 7:55; how did you get access to the stock coding list? I’ve been looking on the internet every day for weeks, can’t find anything
If you don't change the gear when swapping to a metal extruder, you don't have to recalibrate your esteps correct?
Can i Just Save the new e steps in the printer? Or do i need to copy the g Code to Cura? Tnx
Save it right to the printer if it allows!
when you calculate the E steps you saved them in the G code in slicer..why not save the new value in the ender hardware,is there a difference?
Nope! If your hardware allows for that, go ahead! It wasn't an option at the time of filming and I made another video about that when the feature came out! Thanks for watching!
@@TheEdgeofTech awesome man thanks..,im running the BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 v1.2 board on my ender 3 (not pro) so wasn't sure,just got to do the flow rate but im hesitant to touch it now its printing so good,but next step is to stiffen up the single thin Y rail and make the runners wider as I think that's where a lot of levelling issues come from because the wheels are so close together on a single rail.
keep up the good work.
Oh that free air method is naughty! Better than trying to piss around with a sharpie pen trying to mark a curly piece of filament with my shitty cheap amazon callipers
*Had to add, fantastic video. Great clarity, Thankyou sir!! Your to the point clear instructions have saved me from many hours of frustration trying to trial and error this
Thankyou
If you change CURA's settings for an Ender3 printer, what happens when you use CURA for a different ENDER3 Pro?
when slicing the cube, how many walls should i put? 1 only? my standard is 3 or 4
Ok am I missing a step? What did he do at 7:13 that changed the amount extruded?
Later in the video I add the GCode to the starting Gcode section in Cura. If you have a newer Printer or you can connect it to your computer, I suggest changing it that way. There are a couple videos after this one to show you how to do that each way. Its better than adding the GCode.
I tried this process on the Ender 5 Pro, and could not get the extruder to function. I heated the nozzle, did the auto home thing, and set the 100mm extrusion, but it only seems to extrude when there is an active print.
Don't forget to heat the hotend up to 200c because the printer will not extrude anything if the hotend isn't at temp.
@@TheEdgeofTech If by hot end you mean the nozzle (I can heat nozzle or bed) I did that. I'll try again and reset the machine.
when you do free flow, do you first remove the filament from the tube?
YES
I have set up the cube wall thickness 0.8mm (2lines x 0.4mm line width), infill 0 and as an outcome I have two lines printed but separated from each other (ca. 0.5mm). what to change in cura to eliminate this gap and print these 2 lines that are in contact? thx
Doing these steps, gives me 232.5. First time I ran 3 100s. Came with 40mm each that was pushed. By doing your math I’d have to run mine up to 232.5. With my high temps by Extruder is clicking like hell. But I’m pushing 99mm each time after saving the setting. I’m not worried about doing cura file as I can set my e steps to my printer itself. Any other ideas?
Omg, u in or from WI? Thanks for help, Middleton WI here!!
Awesome! I'm in Wisconsin!
Should I be concerned if one of my walls on the calibration cube is significantly smaller than the rest (specifically the back wall). All the other measurements are within .05 of each other except the rear wall as it sits on the print bed which is 0.1-0.15 off from the rest. Happens every time across multiple different PLAs. If so, what can I look at adjusting to change it (Ender 3 btw)?
Good question. What thickness wall are you printing?
Maybe someone has already asked this question or it's not necessary, but would you need to do this after upgrading to a direct drive extruder? I have an Ender 3 Pro.
Thanks!
Love the video but where do I get the gcode to put in cura? On my ender3 pro I changed the esteps but it’s still over extruding in certain areas.
When i turn the dial to extrude 100mm (adding 100 to whatever number is already in the machine), i extrude a piece that is about 105.5mm. When i first turn my printer on and go to the same extruder setting, the number is 0, so i change it to 100mm. It only extrudes 44.5mm. Why the difference in extrusion when first turning the machine on and after i have done a print already?
Great video! I have 2 questions: Why must you remove the coupler after removing the boden tube? Can't the filament be cut flush at the coupler? Then... you auto-homed before performing the measurement. I don't quite understand what that accomplishes. And I guess I have 3 questions. When I did this and went to 'move axis', my Extruder (axis) read out +000.0, yours had a value. Why was that?
Mine has a number because I probably moved it before when I was filming. It won't matter if you have a number, when you turn the know the number will go up or down from there. Also, you can try doing it like that to save time if you want! :)
Any idea how to do this on the Ender 5+? The touch screen doesn't give access to moving the extruder.
Okay loving this :) . I have calibrated my ender 3 pro perfectly so a big thank you for that .
The little guy has been chugging away for months now.
my only question is. I have a cr10 s5 and have done the hot end mod and calibrated the extruder (free air method) 96.5 and i get 100mm.
When it comes to flow I got a calculation of 114 as it was printing walls at 0.70. what is 114 deemed as too high?. is this okay :/ just seems excessive compared to my ender. but then again this thing is huge .
Thanks heaps again your a legend.
my boden coupler is locktited or something into a little ring it screws into that sides into the PLASTIC extruder housing, and I cant turn it for the life of me, and the pliers I have are chewing up the little ring it screws into just trying to provide counter-torque...