Section 1.8 ESteps and Flow Rate
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video I go over Section 1.8 of Luke's Guide, Esteps and Flow Rate. I have updated the Math in the examples below. Luke now uses a .8 wall on the test cube as it's more accurate.
🛑Subscribe for more: www.TH-cam.com/theedgeoftech...
🐱🏍Share this video with a friend:
• Section 1.8 ESteps and...
💾 Share this channel with a friend:
/ @theedgeoftech
EStep Calculation:
100 (commanded Steps) divided by 98 (actual steps taken) = 1.02
1.02 x 93 (Current ESteps) = 94.86
95. is your new ESteps if you round up
Flow Rate Calculation:
Value of all 8 measurements divided by 8 = Average Measurement.
.80 divided by average measurement multiplied by 100 = New Flow Rate.
Example:
.78+.80+.76+.79.+.80+.81+.75+.78 - 6.27 Equals Total Walls Measured
6.27/8=.783 - Total Walls Measured divided by 8 (8=total measurements taken, 2 on each side of the cube)
.8/.783 = 1.02 - Wall thickness (.8) divided by Average of Total Walls Measured (.783)
1.02x100=102. = 102 is the new flow rate.
Luke's Short throw Calibration Test Cube: www.thingiverse.com/thing:322...
Luke's Help Guide
support.th3dstudio.com/hc/en-...
Disclaimer: Some of these links go to one of my websites and some are affiliate links where I'll earn a small commission if you make a purchase at no additional cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Ender 3 V2 Amazon: amzn.to/2OA9bug
Code: 07ZGQI2J to save some money!
Ender 3 V2 Amazon:amzn.to/3qRzLwb
Code: 07GZXYYD to save some money!
Decent Caliper for 3D Printing: amzn.to/3elcw8N
Ender 3 Pro on Amazon: amzn.to/3ak9BtS
Ender 3 direct from Creality:
Ender 3: www.creality3dofficial.com/co...
Ender 3 Pro: www.creality3dofficial.com/co...
The Edge of Tech Amazon Affiliate Store Front: www.amazon.com/shop/theedgeof...
Support the channel through these links!
PayPal
paypal.me/theedgeoftech
Patreon
/ theedgeoftech
Watch next - Luke Hatfields Help Guide Playlist - • Luke Hatfield's Help G...
Recommended Playlist - Community Showcase - • Community Showcase
Let’s connect:
Instagram: / theedgeoftech
Twitter: / theedgeofteck
Facebook: TheEdgeofTechOfficial
----------------------------------------Credits-----------------------------------------------------------
Music by Wicked Realm
Album - No More Fairy Tales
Song - Feed
/ @wickedrealm5507 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![How To Calibrate Your E-Steps [ Ender 3 V2 ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/r8fw7QJVNHY/mqdefault.jpg)
![🔴 [TRỰC TIẾP] U20 VIỆT NAM VS U20 THÁI LAN | Cúp VTV9 - Bình Điền 2024 | JET STUDIO](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tdmZlw-XJJI/mqdefault.jpg)
Pro tip for the professionals out there that like to have everything to be perfect. Turn the piece of filament so that way the bow is turning upwards, or I suppose downwards is fine. Then flatten it out and tape the two ends to the table before measuring. That will make your Measurement way more accurate
You can also drop the filament in boiling water for a minute then take it out and straighten it while it’s flexible
Yes @SDa.......you bring up an excellent point that I noticed right off.
The shortest distance between two points (in this case the most accurate distance or measurement) is a straight line. The video example Jim shows is NOT using a straight line and the filament sample is actually a radius! I worked in Production Automation with CNC’s (3, 4, and 5 axis) making parts for IBM with tolerances of .005mm (.0002 in) using MAFord solid carbide tooling (spade drill, spiral fluted drill @.0057 dia, and end mills @ .093dia) on Delrin 100 and Vespel 500 composite and actually holding half that tolerance. Would never get anywhere with that style of measurement. These videos are informative but when someone shows such a blatant, inaccurate technique I have to say something.
Tape on the ends to hold the true length sounds better than what was shown.
Perfectionist? Maybe! Professional? Always! CONSISTENCY is the name of the game with CNC production and these printers are basically 3-axis (and the ‘feeder’ for the extruder could be considered a 4th axis) CNC’s using the same Gcode used in Nc’s and CNC’s since the 1950’s. I also have considerable experience programming in Industrial code, Gcode, Mcode, etc. and in about 9 different versions as these languages are often proprietary to a particular machine brand.
This part was not shown.
Click Control > Motion, then scroll down to “E-steps/mm” and change it to your new E-step value.
And by doing that we don’t have to change anything from cura, right?
@@fitopineda5192 Correct.
If we change the value in “E-steps/mm” ...Do you still have to change it in Prusa?
Thank you for this.. I’ve got 13 printers.. Didn’t want to adjust the Cura settings when only one of my machines is acting up.
Marco. You saved me some frustration. Was about to throw my phone because this was not mentioned in the vid. Thank you. I would say though, after you make adjustments and run a proper 100mm piece, remember to store your settings. I forgot to twice, then remembered seeing that option under control/store settings. Worked great. Thanks again.
Thank you!!!! Also putting those distance names over the distance looks like another division equation. Hella confusing
I was trying to figure out that whole division line in the second figure til i saw your comment
@@Juz10xD Me too. I thought his formula was different since i was able to calibrate without using that formula. I also thought that's what he meant by hia formula being confusing is about that but turns out it was about the 93 e steps
@@SimplyV3rna I'm not sure, I followed his formula after figuring out that division misinterpretation and had no issues
@@Juz10xD all good. I was just thinking if my formula was different when i was watching his. And i realised he wrote the formula against all math conventions.
The formula is 100 / mesaureLength * currentEStep = newEStep
This has been a much better guide on how to calculate e-steps. I spent a little bit trying to re-find this video because all of the others just breezed over it. Thanks for being thorough!
You're guide completes me. I got my e steps figured out (adjusted to 96 and its dead on 100mm +- 0.2) and my flow rate actually went down to 95%.
Thanks for the guide.
Used this on mine today. Great tutorial when combined with your other video on how the new E3 can set E-steps from the screen.
Dude.....can't thank you enough. I was virtually done with these Enders. Works like a charm now. The way you explain and walk thorough the steps. You're nothing short of awesome
Gotta say man your channel has been my goto for my 3D printing solutions. Thanks for the videos
Some parts were a little confusing at first until I pulled out my common sense and then this video was extremely helpful! My printer hasn't been acting right for months even after a few other e-step calibration videos. Finally, everything is working PERFECTLY! Thank you!
Outstanding tutorial! very clear and easy to follow. Thanks
oh my gosh, this just made this SO much easier for me. I really appreciate it
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Awesome COMPLETE tutorial , thank you .
Great Video! Thank you to share this with all of us!
Awesome.. I've watched several videos about this subject and your video is by far the best. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!!
i used this vid numerous of times . great walkthrough
Great video..For a guy thats new to this 3d prints, only had my first 3d printer for 1 week now and thought my prints was good, but this estep and flow calibration made my prints way better!!
Great guide - thank you!
Thank you so much for this you explained it extremely well without going off at a tangent like quite a few others which just confused the issue. This is the second vide of yours that has helped so I have subscribed. Keep up the good work and a big thank you from London UK
Jim, just a tip for this one if you ever re-do this video in the future. Your formulas the way you wrote them up could confuse some. I figured out what you did but here is what might be better. Step 1: 100/Measured Length= n Have the Measure length noted off to the side in a list of your variables. Step 2: Step 1 * Current Estep value. Again have the value for the Current Estep noted in a list on the side instead of in your formula.
What one might interpret what you wrote as the following. step 1: 100/(Measured length/87) Step 2: Step 1 X(Current Estep/93).
I hope you find this feedback helpful in the future.
Thank you for the feedback!! I appreciate it!
@@TheEdgeofTech No Problem Jim.
@@TheEdgeofTech No problem Jim. I will send you a Google sheets example of what I'm talking about via my business account puppets3Dcreations at Gmail dot com.
Yea so 100 / ( 93/93) is 100...
Such a great tutorial. Really helped break it down and make it simple.
Thank you so much for making this video. Seriously, you are the man.
Thanks! I'm glad it helps! Thanks for watching!
Like and Subscribed, Jim. Looking forward to upgrading and improving my Ender 3
You are the man thanks so much took the confusion out of it for me!
Fantastic video - thank you! This was super helpful and easy to follow
I changed my extruder to a dual gear one, and YOU amazing man helped me tune perfectly! Everything was well explained, sooo....THANK YOUUUU!! I love your channel, and I hope your arm healed very nicely!!
Thanks!! I'm glad it helped!
Have you been having to calibrate flow per material too? I did the same mod with my ender 3 and now I have to.
@@TheAkashicTraveller That's good practice, so the correct answer is yes you should. But many people just go with the flow and keep it the same.
@@TheEdgeofTech It's slightly fruystrating that with cura you have to use a plugin to get flow into the per meterial settings despite people asking for it for years at this point.
This is the best method I've seen of measuring esteps. Nice and easy!
Excellent tutorial, helped a lot.
Thank you!
thank you!! way better then other online
Thank you! Very detailed. Great instructional video..
This was highly informative and easy as pie to follow along with. I like the idea of having esteps one and done, then just tweak software vs hardware to attempt dial ins.
To anyone else that might be confused about the flow rate and wall width:
The walls of the cube are 2*(nozzle size), so if you have a 0.4mm nozzle you should get a 0.8mm wall after printing!
I have the same problem, set cura to 1 line wall, .4 thickness, and it prints the 3 wall line still
@@ontariodigger162 there is no need to change anything in Cura, it will always try to print it 0.8mm wide since the 3D model says so (if you use a 0.4mm nozzle and the 0.4mm stl file). Just print it and measure it
no lol. A .4 nozzle should be a .4 wall
@@pubexploit6782 yes, but it prints two walls = .8 mm :)
@@SweCookie I'm saying for just 1 wall:)
Thanks for the info!!! was super helpful
Had zits / blobs in my exstrution. Tried many thing but since my spool was running low finally got time to go trough these steps.
My prints are awesome to perfect in my consideration. Thx man! This was a great help and for now own. flowcube, small test and only need to adjust the flowrate.
Thanks for the great explanation! It helped.
Awesome! I am glad to hear it helped, and thanks for watching!!!
Bro. I love your video. My printer is running awesome now. I had NIGHTMARE stringing. I'm new to 3d. 5 days new. Got my Capricorn rolling from last video. Doing my Esteps now. It's rocking and rolling! Thanks!
Great news!! I'm glad You're rolling now! Thanks for watching!!
Finally I found a tutorial on how to calibrate those two values (esteps and flow rate), thanx a lot! Apart from the creatively written small math formula (I figured it out as you explained what you meant in the video) everything was very well explained. Thanks again!
Thanks for mentioning the 'algebra that isn't algebra' . So in this case the divide line should read (or in our example).
This is awesome. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Jim..Very clear explanation..Thank you!
I needed this thank you kindly
Great video, very helpful thank you! I’m new to 3D printing and your videos have helped me from assembly to successful prints! Question what is the blue thing around your fan?
You are a HERO!!! Thank you so much!
now this was bloody brilliant. Thx alot for this explanation. Easypeasy once u get the hang of it.
Love this guy, he is so cool. Could deffo go for a beer with him in the pub.
Wow y’all have saved me so much headache thank you!
Thank you so much for this video. I saw a lot of people talking about Esteps and flow but I couldn't find a good explanation. This however is a very good video!
Glad it was helpful!
Very clear explanation thanks a lot!
Thanks for watching!
Thankyou Jim....its easy when you explain it in layman's terms....👍
Hey thanks for the idea of taking the tube off and just cutting it. Much easier than marking the filament on the other side of the extruder.
thank you for the great video,
my E-steps was 93 now is 97.8,
flow rate 100% reduced it to 84.7%,
perfect results, well done.....
Same here, E-step went to 98 and flow to 87%, pretty close at least. Ender 3 printing Generic ABS.
Glad you mentioned that. I was also confused as my esteps went only a little bit up (95.7 on Direct Drive). I am also clocking in a 83-84%.
Is it any surprise you INCREASED your Esteps and now you have to DECREASE your flow? It's not because you got your Estep number correct. All you did was shift the calculations for the end result around.
Mine went to 68%!? How's this possible? Testing now.
When printing now there is spaces between the line, I increased the flow rate to 90. Why this happen?
OMG this saved my sanity, I was going nuts trying to figure out what was wrong. A million thanks.
I didn't really understand anything about the second/third part until the end of the video, then it all clicked haha. Thanks a lot for this
#2020 Huge thanks bro ! Always learning something new ! Been designing and printing micro drone and i recently changed my nozzle and bought some new CarbonX and had trouble your video did help me ! Thanks again
thanks bud after banging my head against the wall I couldn't figure out why my ender 3 was printing weak under extruded Prints and then I came across your video and figured out that my printer had the wrong e-steps setting in and it was only extruding about half of what it should have been extruding after I put the new values in everything was good
That was excellent TYVM!!
Spot-on explaination :)
I did some flowrate calibration for the filament spools that are most commonly used when I'm printing things, mostly PLA and PETG.
Once filament have been dried, across brands, well, there are subtle differences. From brand to brand, PLA yielded values between 0.95 and 0.98... PETG being either 0.99 or 1 (using PrusaSlicer).
Subtle, yet not to be overlooked. Minor changes can produce a world of difference.
Great tip! It's always good to check the flow rate with all your filaments to be spot on!
Yes :) Still have to do it for TPU, nylon, and ABS. When the printer will be repaired and enclosed...
Thanks man. For the first time someone explained these 2 important steps so that even a knob like me can understand it 😂👍🏼
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Awesome video! Very informative and educational and easy to follow, especially for noobs like me. Thank you!
Thanks you! I'm glad it helped! Thanks for watching!!
Finally!!! This video in combination with other videos helped me find peace after sleepless nights!!!
Very clear !!! Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Oh wow, when I get my next video out I need to link to this for Estep calculations (I'm doing a beginner lingo 3D printer one). I've watched 3 other videos and read about 4 other websites that had descriptions, and none of them did it as clearly as you did. I appreciate that you showed the equation twice....otherwise you're right, the first time would've been cofusin (I thought heck 100 sounds obvious...it's 100 mm, why wouldnt you set it to 100?). Great video, I'll check out your other work and get subscribed. I know how tough making and editing can be, so to watch you do it with a bum arm was even more impressive :D
Hi bruh great video, I have a question I dont count with a caliper that measures hundredths. What happen if I dont change the flow rate? Thanks
Thanks Jim!
I definitely like the videos I would like to see some of these videos updated new firmware technology and changes 🤘
thank you so much for the video it was great
dude this was SOOOOOO helpful
Okay loving this :) . I have calibrated my ender 3 pro perfectly so a big thank you for that .
The little guy has been chugging away for months now.
my only question is. I have a cr10 s5 and have done the hot end mod and calibrated the extruder (free air method) 96.5 and i get 100mm.
When it comes to flow I got a calculation of 114 as it was printing walls at 0.70. what is 114 deemed as too high?. is this okay :/ just seems excessive compared to my ender. but then again this thing is huge .
Thanks heaps again your a legend.
Great video. Only issue I seen is that the filament should be measured when strait. In video it shows being measured when at arc which will result in a shorter then actual measurement
You have a good point. Luckily an arch that wide will likely not impact the measurement enough to be a huge problem. The length difference with that arch and a straight piece is likely somewhere under 0.01 range.
Thanks so much for this video. At first I was like why would you want to do the free air method for e steps? But after you explained things at the end it makes perfect sense. Been having problems with over extrusion on my Ender 3 Pro and I'm sure this will fix it.
Awesome! I hope it worked!
Very helpful! thank you so muchh
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!!
Grate explanation.
I'm sorry kinda new to this so if I changed my E-steps in my printer why add the code in Cura doesn't it use the step values in the printer already unless you add code to change it? BTW thanks!!
Hey, I’m experienced at CNC programming and Industrial Code or Gcode but just starting out with 3dprinting. Good to know how to get the numbers and where to find those setting in the Cura sw.
Thanks for that!
Awesome video. Will this line of code also work in prusaslicer? I'm assuming it will but its always good to double check.
yay, I have new e-steps!
And I also learned that I can't check the flow rate until I borrow a digital caliper from someone! xD
Great tutorial and very easy to follow. The only thing I struggled getting my head around was you said extrude 300mm instead of 100mm 3 times
Thanks great video
My Original E Step was 98.94, My New EStep is 135.534, Approx 136. I type M92 E136 in Octotprint Terminal to modify the current EStep value. Then M500 to write new ESstep value to EEPROM. Then M503 to read saved value. Then I extruded another 100mm and it was spot on,Thank you!
sorry but what's the times 100 for at 11:55? Is he timesing it by his e step number or is that 100 for everyone?
Love the video but where do I get the gcode to put in cura? On my ender3 pro I changed the esteps but it’s still over extruding in certain areas.
Fantastic, thanks a lot!!:)
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
Awesome video. At 7:55; how did you get access to the stock coding list? I’ve been looking on the internet every day for weeks, can’t find anything
awesome video has already helped a ton with most of my filaments. I have a new filament (tough PLA) im finding the various between the side vary high (did the .8mm cube) these were my measurements: 0.77, 0.87, 0.77, 0.84, 0.82, 0.82, 0.79, 0.88.
in all my other filaments my variation wasn't more then .05m but this canadian makers tough pla is .10mm off.
If anyone knows why that would be awesome!
Bit late to reply, most likely reason is because of the extra additives in the filament causing small/minor blockages and then surges in the nozzle. I've been tinkering with CF-PLA and CF-PETG and it's a turd to print cos the fibres are randomly aligned in the filament, so collide with each other when it's melted and compressed in the nozzle....even with a 0.6mm nozzle Im still getting under and over extrusion issues
Best solution it seems is lower the nozzle pressure, so everything can compress and align before causing a flow restriction/surge
Thanks for the great videos Jim - got my Ender 3 Pro setup nicely :) Quick question - on the flow rate, once measured does this apply to any spools of that filament (e.g. PLA) or does it only apply to that brand/manufacturer, or even to that individual colour? Thanks :)
It apply to your current extruder. If you change your extruder or if it is really used, you will have to change your esteps.
For specific filament, flow rate will change but not esteps
The flow rate probably should be done with every filament you try. Then write the findings on the spool. It's super easy if it's the first thing you print with each new spool, and just keep the cube on your memory card.
Well done
Great Video- how do you calibrate this when using a MDD direct drive?
Luke changed the original file. The first file was one wall, 0.4.
Now it is two wall, 0.8.
That makes this video a little bit misleading and diffucult to understand if you are new to 3d printing and if mathematics arent your strong side.
Thanks for the videos you are making ! It really helps a noob like med =)
This could be easily changed with Wall line count set to 1 :)
What did I miss. I dig all your vids. How did you calculate 100mm to pass through the extruder only? I looked back but Im confused. I did order the new one on your link just now.
thank you so muuuuuch
No prob! Thanks for watching!
So how do you verify the E-steps for the Z-Axis stepper motor (or either the X and Y for that matter)? Do you still set like 100 mm and have the Z-axis raise be 100 and do that same calculation? How do I know the presets are correct? Currently, our extruder seems to drag across the infill after a certain height.
Thanks for the great videos! When slicing Lukes .8 cube test which profile should I use? Super .12, Dynamic .16 Standard .2 Then set the Shell wall thickness to.8 which gives 2 walls. (Ender 5 plus with .4 mm nozzle) Only adjusting the temps for PLA + (210 nozzle 65 bed)
I would have to go look but I think he put that on his thingiverse page. It should say what settings to use when printing it. I'm watching a movie currently so I can't do it, but let me know if you can't find it.
Worked perfect
great video... watching as they are posted keep up the good work, can i just ask what layer height you used? thanks
Thanks for watching! Off the top of my head, I don't remember. I'm at work so I can't check right now. But I do know Luke changed the test cube on thingiverse recently, so you might want to check that out. You can find it here: flow calibration test cube .8mm found on #Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:3220015
@@TheEdgeofTech thanks for the quick reply much appreciated.
Good video.
The math formulas are expressed incorrectly:
100 / (Current measured length) * 93 = (New e-Step)
Also you don't actually need to snip off the filament. Just trim the ends and measure with the caliper's upper jaws (used for inside measurements) against the extruder to the tip of the filament.
7:30 the question is should you do it for each filament type, casue the gear byte and grab different between pla and petg for example
According to Luke, if you do the open air method you would not need to do it for every filament. Just calibrate your flow and your good to go for each filament. Thanks for watching!
@@TheEdgeofTech Cura allows you to customize flow for each filament profile. Should flow be done for each filament color/brand or only needed once per printer? Then Can I just change the flow by creating a custom profile or do I have to edit the gcode? I feel like there are so many places to change flow I am slightly confused as to where to save the change and if I just do it once or for each filament brand/color...
Wish the gcode alteration was in the notes so i can copy and paste but thanks alot this helped me a fton
Hey, I will double check the description, but the help guide should be linked there. If possible I would do this right on the printer or by hooking the printer up to the computer if possible. I have videos on both ways and that's a way better solution.
Great video, thanks for sharing. I was wondering how did you test if you have 100mm of filament after the calibration if it's not saved to the eeprom (printer)?
Thanks for watching! Great question! At 7:46 I show you how to add the new ESteps to the slicer GCode. After that, it should work. But if you want to test it, we could create a GCode file that does that. Or if you connected it to your computer or octoprint, you could see the other video I have for this and test it that way.
@@TheEdgeofTech But Gcode is only read by the printer when it starts to print something. How did you get a 100mm piece of filament without changes to the printer itself?
This is an awesome guide. Thank you.
I'll be coming back when my hardware actually arrives.
One questions I have is, I've been taught to "calibrate" things in the manner they were designed to be used. In this case, it would be during extrusion, not freeflow without any pressure or resistance.
Shouldn't you be calibrating it as you intend to use it - due to friction in the tube and change of 'flow' rate as it melts affecting the outcome?
There are 2 train of thought on that. This way you are calibrating the Extruder without anything attached. That way you know it's putting out 100mm when it's told to. Then you should do the calibration cube for each Filament and dial in your flow rate for that Filament. Otherwise if you do it the other way, you have to do the eSteps calibration for every Filament, then the flow rate too. I just keep a cube on my sdcard and it's the first thing I print with new Filament. Then I measure it, get my flow rate and start printing! It's super easy. But it's really up to personal preference.
@@TheEdgeofTech Of course! That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the follow up.
@@TheEdgeofTech Makes sense, since E-steps are not really intended to control the flow rate, they are a fixed number of steps the stepper motor has to take in order to move 100mm, the actual flow of material is not fixed, given that all other variables such as nozzle resistance, temperature, filament viscosity and fluidity, will change between filaments, it makes more sense to change them in software while keeping the hardware constant.
Thank you
Great video, but I have one comment. When I see you write the Measured Length then a line with the number underneath, I read that as the measured length divided by #. Maybe just the math nerd in me. You did a great job of talking through it when I went back and actually listened to what you said instead of just reading what you wrote.
Thanks for watching and for the feedback! I appreciate it!
@@TheEdgeofTech love the video! I agree with this comment and would add that you could simply edit out the part where your E steps and mm length happened to be the same number :)
The flow test cubes that start with a dot . are treated as hidden files in Linux. Rename them and use 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, etc.
It may be obvious to experienced printers, but I'm a beginner and I don't know what these tweaks improve. I'm having some problems and I'm sure your tweaks won't make them any worse, but I don't know if they'll help with the problems I'm having. What problems are taken care of by doing the two adjustments? Thank you.