Had this exact fault on nephews switch 3 months ago. Had a go at repairing and botched it hideously! Ripped off 2 of the tabs from not enough heat. Built him a new switch out of 2x donors in the end. You make it look so easy! And at @10:00, yours is definitely best way.
Love the information you share and appreciate it! One piece of feedback on this one as someone who has handled these devices by the hundreds is never put power to one of these without checking the port first. They do not have very much protection between the port and the APU and you can easily kill an otherwise fixable console by plugging power into a compromised port.
Agree. Always visual first. I also always test at 5v only first - even after port replacement and dead testing with a breakout board.. 5v seems at little safer until you know what's what.
Visual first, then plug in. You probably aren't going to break the charging circuit any more than happened when the customer did it but I like to keep volts away from things until needed. I also always test with a standard 5v charger first because if something is up, I'd rather it had to deal with 5v rather than 12-15v. If the 5v charge looks good, then I try a proper PD charger.
My own tip and trick for these is to make sure you don't get any flux in other connectors on the board and squirt some switch cleaner in the port after you have cleaned up. Dried flux in any of these things can create a headache when you think you are done and find something doesn't work. Switch Lites are a real PITA when you reassemble and have to go back.
I have to say, I disagree with your assessment of using a low melt for removing the port. I use copper braid to suck all the solder out of every hole and clean all the low melt off the pins and ONLY when it is 100% sucked up by braid, do I then resolder the port using leaded solder. I have been doing this for many years and I don't ever get my port replacements back. You do have to do more work to get that low melt off the board but it allows me to use much lower heat when removing the port which is of course, much safer for the board.
why do you make it so complicated? with hot air you just take the old one off, and while still hot pop the new one back on. no need to be clearing holes and all this stuff. thats the way i used to do it before i got a hot air machine. having to desolder everything real PITA. hot air makes everything so much easier!
Does anyone wann tell her that's not how you use that amp meter... Hey lady those amp meters are directional... See how it says input and output... All your doing is checking the battery 😂😂😂
You are actually incorrect there Jessa... It's not a downgrade but an upgrade. You have an extra element(lead)😂 and actually I think is stronger than the environmental friendly bullshit they are using.
![โรงเรียนห้ามรัก โดนจับได้ตาย...!! [เอิร์นไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4u02Sbr556Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Super clean work ! I've fixed a few of these with ripped traces before, great job, thanks for sharing the technique.
Had this exact fault on nephews switch 3 months ago. Had a go at repairing and botched it hideously! Ripped off 2 of the tabs from not enough heat. Built him a new switch out of 2x donors in the end.
You make it look so easy! And at @10:00, yours is definitely best way.
Great video! Thank you for sharing
FYI one can cut the tip of the solder sucker at an angle and it will still work and allows you to get it under the microscope.
Love the information you share and appreciate it!
One piece of feedback on this one as someone who has handled these devices by the hundreds is never put power to one of these without checking the port first.
They do not have very much protection between the port and the APU and you can easily kill an otherwise fixable console by plugging power into a compromised port.
Just thought of menitoning that advice after watching your channel and discovered your post :)
Agree. Always visual first. I also always test at 5v only first - even after port replacement and dead testing with a breakout board.. 5v seems at little safer until you know what's what.
Thank you! Superior method, superior video tutorial!!!!
Visual first, then plug in. You probably aren't going to break the charging circuit any more than happened when the customer did it but I like to keep volts away from things until needed. I also always test with a standard 5v charger first because if something is up, I'd rather it had to deal with 5v rather than 12-15v. If the 5v charge looks good, then I try a proper PD charger.
I did it! Thank you for your information as always!😁
Way to go!!
i use silver solder 70c melting point, works a treat
Great info in this, but why not use braid to remove as much solder first? Because it's through hole anchor points might not clean up I guess?
usually how much do you guys charge for this repair?
same question if it's an issue with the logic board or something else
My own tip and trick for these is to make sure you don't get any flux in other connectors on the board and squirt some switch cleaner in the port after you have cleaned up. Dried flux in any of these things can create a headache when you think you are done and find something doesn't work. Switch Lites are a real PITA when you reassemble and have to go back.
Do you offer repair services for devices other than Iphones and Ipads or is this just a one time job?
We fix any circuit board where the value of the device supports repair. Lots of Macbooks, PlayStations etc
@@JessaJones Would like to see more of that.
If leaded solder is still used in mission critical connections (military and medical), wouldn't that be an upgrade...? 😅
that is why i prefer inductive charging and to make these devices waterproof.
Jessa, why don´t you cut the end of the tip on a 45º angle? That way you can desolder under the microscope.
Part of the “fun” is wearing shorts while doing these and you never know where the little plug of solder will splash
I have to say, I disagree with your assessment of using a low melt for removing the port. I use copper braid to suck all the solder out of every hole and clean all the low melt off the pins and ONLY when it is 100% sucked up by braid, do I then resolder the port using leaded solder. I have been doing this for many years and I don't ever get my port replacements back. You do have to do more work to get that low melt off the board but it allows me to use much lower heat when removing the port which is of course, much safer for the board.
How do you get the hidden pins?
i think the drop down method is better
best way I get rid of oxidation is to put my tip in vinegar over night and do it once a week.
Thanks, I'll try it.
It is itchy afterwards?
Could you please add a Turkish option to the translation?
I take it off with 138. The tin the anchor holes and top row with 183, bottom row gets 138. I do that on the port and the board.
Magnetic USB cables are so awesome to avoid this.
You are a genius, @queazocotal
Hahahaha ;) I like it :)
why do you make it so complicated? with hot air you just take the old one off, and while still hot pop the new one back on. no need to be clearing holes and all this stuff. thats the way i used to do it before i got a hot air machine. having to desolder everything real PITA. hot air makes everything so much easier!
Because half of the original low quality factory solder goes away with the old port, and the new port would be very weakly attached with that method.
Does anyone wann tell her that's not how you use that amp meter... Hey lady those amp meters are directional... See how it says input and output... All your doing is checking the battery 😂😂😂
You are actually incorrect there Jessa... It's not a downgrade but an upgrade. You have an extra element(lead)😂 and actually I think is stronger than the environmental friendly bullshit they are using.
1st