Thanks for this insightful vid! I got a 2024 Mazda 3 sedan a couple months ago and it’s been such a pleasure to drive. It’s nice to know you’ve had no major issues over the course of ownership to date. I know no car is perfect, so it sounds like you’re pretty happy with the car overall. Thanks for posting! ✌🏻👍🏻✌🏻
Yes, despite the few minor issues I'm extremely happy with both our Mazda 3's. They're very comfortable, quiet, powerful and very fun to drive. I like both the turbo and non-turbo in different ways. I even thought about doing a comparison video between the two, as the driving dynamics are a bit different for both.
I've got a 2024 Sport going on to one year ownership. I love the car but it's not without issues. Every once in a while the parking brake wouldn't automatically disengage when it's put in drive (I believe this is a new feature for 2024), after only a few months the key fob battery died, the car wouldn't start on the first try sometimes if it would sit for a day(dealer said everything looked fine and basically shrugged their shoulders), and now I have a small EVAP leak which the dealer couldn't figure out. Mazda Canada told them to replace a part which is now on order. Oh and rattles are completely bonkers in the winter but in the summer they basically clear up. When it gets cold my car sounds like it's a 20 year old beater with a symphony of rattles coming from everywhere. My car is made in Japan too. I have the Blue paint and it's also holding up very well too. I had a few chips but the Mazda touchup pen works well. In my opinion the whole thin paint thing is way overblown.
I got a 2021 Mazda CX-5 with the same engine and transmission. You are spot on with the transmission issues around switching between reverse and drive, but I think that's common in most torque converters where the inside fluid has momentum and has to settle, so I usually wait for a tiny bit after switching between drive and reverse before hitting the gas.
I think you're right. The Mazda uses an unconventional torque converter set up, so I can see how its behavior may seem unusual when accelerating from a stop or switching back and forth between P and R.
I own a 2021 Mazda3, naturally aspirated, bought new three years ago. I now have 36,000 miles. My issues: --interior creaks, rattles, and buzzes from the dashboard, door panels and windows, and seatbelt mechanisms, with the loudest and most annoying buzz coming from the infotainment screen (a technical bulletin for the infotainment screen buzz was issued); --a rattle coming from the prop rod that holds the engine hood open that was so loud under acceleration, I thought there was an engine issue (a techical bulletin issue was issued). For now, I have removed the prop rod; --the see-thru plastic cover over the instrument panel scratches EXTREMELY easily, and many Mazda3 and CX-30 owners have complained on Mazda forums. You literally cannot clean the cover without scratching it, even when using a Microfibre cloth. Inevitably, you will get fine, spider-web like scratches that are particularly noticeable in direct sunlight; --the exterior trunk release button works only randomly. Not sure what the issue is. The interior trunk release button and the remote trunk release, however, do work; --since my car was new, after filling my gas tank, my fuel gauge does not quite go all the way to Full. It goes to just short of the Full line, except on a handful of occasions, when it did go all the way to Full; --on one occasion, my car did stall when accelerating from a stop at a stoplight. Not sure what happened, but it never happened again; --sometimes, when accelerating from a stop, the car has an ever so slight hesitation. Maybe a transmission software update will help, like it helped the person in this video; --the exterior paint is simply too thin and chip prone. The fake chrome on my front grille trim piece has also received a big chip; --the navigation software is terrible, even with updates, with regards to giving you the speed limit of the road you're on. In fact, after the latest update, the accuracy of speed limits on side roads and country roads, which were once accurate under the last software update, now default to 25 MPH. Google maps can be accurate, so accuracy is possible, no excuses; --the Bridgestone Turanzas are terrible, and I plan on replacing them with Continental Extreme Contacts; and --the transmission is a sealed unit. As a result, the two Mazda dealers in my area refuse to change the transmission fluid, regardless of mileage. A transmission, even if it is sealed, should have its fluid changed at 50,000 to 75,000 miles, if not earlier. Otherwise, no engine or transmission issues.
Interesting. I've not had a single interior rattle or creak now since months before posting this video. I had them on and off for awhile, but no more. Odd. The only rattle though is what sounds like a loose heat shield under brisk acceleration and only when the engine vibrates at a certain range of RPMs. I wonder if mine is also the prop rod. Hmmm, I could tape it down and see if it goes away, as a test. Yeah, this hesitation when accelerating from a stop is very annoying. The ECU reprogramming per the TSB ended up not fixing the issue. I thought it did, but it didn't. My workaround to that issue is to pause for a second after lifting off the brake pedal before pressing the accelerator pedal. It seems that the torque converter or transmission just needs a moment to engage and is slow to do so. I had a technician at the dealership duplicate the issue but he had no idea how to solve it or if it was even normal behavior for this model. I asked him to drive another one on the lot to see if it does the same. He drove a brand new 2024 for comparison and noted that that one also did the little hesitation thing, but he said it wasn't quite as pronounced on that one, but still present nonetheless. Interesting that the dealers in your area refuse the transmission flush. I definitely want to get mine done at around 50K, for the sake of being proactive with maintenance. I do think doing it sooner than 50K is excessive. I'm also big on having them do the fuel induction cleaning service every 20 to 30K miles to prevent heavy carbon buildups.
I have a 2021 Mazda 3 turbo hatch and have had some similar issues. Of course (and this seems to be the case with Honda, Toyota, VW and many other makes) the battery that comes from the factory isn't the best, mine failed at just over 2 years as well. I also had an issue once with the fuel door, but pushing it in about 3 times did the trick and it's never happened again. I haven't had any door or hatch seal leaks so maybe that's just the sedan? The door handle has never failed to sense my fingers, so lucky on that I guess. I change the key fob batteries once a year (same time as home smoke detectors) and haven't had an issue. Only thing I've had that you haven't is my infotainment screen has gone blank on me twice, fixed by pulling over, shutting down the car and restarting. That hasn't happened in quite a while now. (Knock on wood) I haven't experienced any other issues so far, but the paint could be thicker for sure...but still better than Honda. Overall I'm very pleased with my 3, far less niggling issues than the 2016 VW GTI that preceded it, also bought brand new. The biggest thing on the GTI was the sunroof frame cracking and leaking water into the headliner, and also had infotainment weirdness and lots of rattles and creaks, backup camera failed (or mechanism that deploys it from under the rear badge) replaced under warranty. Things like that and the moonroof on the Mazda have been flawless so far.
I also have a 2022 M3 turbo sedan. I like having both a naturally aspirated version and a turbo version. There are things I like about one over the other, for both cars.
Sad facts from someone who changed lots of cars, both private and company: - in about last 7-8y EVERY new car had lots of small issues like you're describing - most rattle and creak in the interior, be it Honda, VW, Mazda or Ford - paint is thinner than ever - due to ecology (at least in Europe) they have cylinder deactivation, at least mild-hybrid systems, advanced particle filters etc., all is great until you have issues Bottom line, get the one you can afford that's FUN for you AND has reliable important parts like engine and transmission. Mazda, Toyota/Lexus are good examples. If you think this is bad, buy a French car, speaking from experience, it'll look ultra SciFi and be comfy, but you'll have about twice the issues. As soon as your new car warranty ends - think about replacing it if you did lots of warranty claims.
With the door handles not sensing, it appears in the video that your thumb is making contact with the indent used to lock the car. If this indent is touched at the same time as the rear of the door handle (to unlock) the system doesn’t know what to do and will just not respond. Happened to me for the first few weeks of ownership :)
Yes, but there is a TSB addressing the issue of the sensors not detecting the hand intermittently. I forgot what causes it, but I personally don't care enough about it to spend money on it. Normally my thumb is not in contact with the indent. This was just a fluke when filming the video.
I have a 2019 Mazda 3 hatch AWD. It’s been an ok car. Tiny gas tank so if you are planning to travel a lot in it be aware of that. Also, have had quite a few issues with electronics. Constantly tells me I’m low on windshield wiper fluid. Also, coming down from higher elevations to lower, the car always tells me there is an engine malfunction. Issues with Bluetooth connecting as well. I give it a 6 out of 10 and definitely should have gone with a 6 or Civic
I can go about 430 miles on a full tank on freeway road trips. Also, the 2019 has a lot of bugs. It was the first year of the generation, which traditionally has the most problems. Honestly, you should have gone with a later year of the Mazda 3. The Civics have gone down in reliability. I wouldn't buy a Honda nowadays.
I guess I been lucky, because I've had no rattling for a long time, and had a little in the 2021 off and on earlier in my ownership. I haven't had any rattling yet in my 2022.
Mine mostly has it on some special days on the autobahn, if its colder its quiet, if its hotter its quiet. But thats the thing with plastic, it rattles, sadly. But I would rather have one more plastic thing then paying 2-3X the Price for a car with less plastic, but that still has it somewhere.
Rattling that quickly goes away often comes from plastics expanding when it's summer (or reverse, it contracts when you switch on the AC to quickly cool down the interior). But it may very well be something else in the Mazda 3.
It doesn't seem to matter what the temperature is. The creaks and rattles were pretty random. That said, it's been many months now since the last rattle or creak.
Isn’t your car still on the warranty? I live in Australia and I have a Masta 3 evolve and the only thing that I’ve had problems with is when the safety thing comes up and it came up a couple of times went back to the Mazda dealership service department and found out it was getting wet so they replaced it now I do not know what it’s like in the US but here in Australia my master or any master has a five year on kilometres warranty so that means you must’ve had some type of warranty mate why didn’t you take it back to the most the dealership and get them to fix it cause it sounds like little problems you’ve got and it looks like you worry too much about the problem and not get the feel of the drive of the car cause I love my Mazda 3
Honestly, I don't worry about the small issues. I very much enjoy driving this car. It's a blast to drive! I love it just as much as the day we bought it. The drivetrain is still under warranty, but no problems with it really.
It is flush aligned. That's an illusion in the video. Car was assembled in Mexico, but it's a total myth that Mazdas from the Mexico plant are inferior to the Japan made ones. Mazda corrected that situation a long time ago, and now the Mexico factory is standardized to the Japan one. There are just as many customers reporting issues with their Japan assembled ones. In fact, a comment right above yours is a guy with issues with his Mazda assembled in Japan.
MPG is pretty good I'd say, for an engine this size and compression ratio. My MPG over the last 3 years is probably around 35.5. I do about 80% highway and 20% city. But even on the highway runs, I encounter traffic lights occasionally and stop-and-go traffic once in a while. If I'm hypermiling and doing at least a 2 hour drive with only a few traffic lights/stop signs, I can easily get 42 mpg. I think the best mpg I ever got on one drive was 47 mpg on a 1.5 hour drive on a highway and I stopped about 4 times at a light or stop sign and I was purposefully hypermiling by driving the car incredibly gently just to see what my best number could be.
I have a 2023 Mazda 3 Turbo and the worst thing wrong with the car is the suspension. It just sucks on less than ideal road surfaces. Smooth roads this car drives amazing. Also in the case of emergency steering the rear end is ridiculously sloppy almost to be point of dangerous. Needs rear sway bar bad, That's the main 2 driving characteristics that need correction.
There must be something mechanically wrong with your car or your tires are drastically over or underinflated. I don't have ANY of the problems with mine that you seem to have with yours. I also belong to a Mazda3 sub-reddit and have never heard anyone complain about an unstable rear-end, and I've read hundreds of reviews on this car and follow the sub closely. Get your car checked out by a mechanic. Those things you mentioned are not characteristic of the Mazda3. I also own the turbo version and the car feels amazingly stable in all kinds of road conditions and driving styles. I can maneuver far more aggressively in the car than I ever could in any other car I've ever owned. Also, on less than smooth road surfaces, with the sporty, low-profile tires, you're going to feel bumps and imperfections a lot more than you would with tires of higher sidewalls. What you're describing with rough roads has more to do with the tires than the car itself. As well, the suspension is sportier and stiffer on these cars so it won't be as smooth as say, an SUV. But even at that, the car absorbs the bumps and imperfections amazingly well for such a sporty suspension and tires. If it bothers you, you can always change to 16" wheels for tires with a taller side-wall. You'll have a smoother ride just with that.
That's because this is an imposter version of the real Mazda3, which suppose to only come with Focus' Control Blade multi-link rear suspension (Those without such suspension were called Mazda Protege/323 & Ford Escort). With torsion beam, it's just a supersized quieter Mazda2, therefore should be called Mazda20 instead, just like CX-3 vs CX-30! LOL Btw, “rear sway” bar will increase oversteer. Is this what you want?
@@creakid What do you mean the Mazda 3 is supposed to come with the Ford Focus MLRS? Mazda has not been affiliated with Ford since 2015. And there were never any plans for the 4th gen to have a MLRS. The torsion beam is a complete non-issue. Anyone complaining about it is really just suffering from the equivalent of the "placebo effect". It's all in their heads.
After Ford got kicked out, Focus' MLRS continued to hang around, in both Volvo V40 & Mazda CX-5. I just test drove a 2025 Mazda3 hatch auto base model, & was impressed by the more “(detailed) steering feel & sound insulation” than Civic's, plus a rare “thigh-angle adjustment knob” on a manual seat: th-cam.com/video/gAn6m16NjLM/w-d-xo.html But, despite riding on these tires' 205/60-16 tall sidewalls, its torsion beam's “inferior ride cushiness than Civic/Corolla/Impreza's” is a deal breaker. I'm still driving my 1990 Protege DOHC with 8.9" of rear suspension travel (TTL independent with “severe camber change” tail happiness): th-cam.com/video/V6pd2C-XZ4w/w-d-xo.html
@@Slavic_Boer Not one bad experience. This vid just served to confirm my concerns about the vehicle. It aims to be an entry level premium vehicle but it lacks a multi-link set up. The cylinder deactivation is also a concern. Poor paint durability. No air vents or USB in the rear. The list goes on. Cheers.
@@stevebarila9917 Cylinder deactivation is not on all Mazda 3's. Neither of my 3's have it. I didn't want it, so I got the Mazda 3 models without that feature.
I understand but 30k miles isnt really what nost people worry about. What about 70k 100k 150k? You know the places where you usually see skmething go wrong big or small
I disagree, strongly. I own a 2021 Mazda3, naturally aspirated, bought new three years ago. I now have 36,000 miles. I think a 30,000 mile review will give a very good indication of initial quality, especially as 3 years/36,000 miles is often the bumper-to-bumper warranty offered by manufacturers. Don't get me wrong. A review at 60,000 miles (the end of the powertrain warranty) and then at 100,000 miles, etc., would also be great.
Gas door pin permanent fix is a shot of WD=40. I had a bunch more little issues with my Mazda 3 but got enough out of it before I traded it in. Don't think it's built better than Toyota but yes very fun to drive. Wish the rear visibility was better and carbon build up wasn't an issue also.
Did you have carbon buildup issues on yours?? Carbon buildup is not exclusive to Mazdas. All of the modern direct injection engines have this issue, regardless of car brand. Regardless, not doing a lot of short trips and allowing the engine to fully warm up, as well as doing the fuel induction cleaning service every so often, will help prevent carbon buildup. In fact, Mazda designed their Skyactiv engines to run a bit hotter than the average engine to help prevent carbon buildup.
@@bwelmhouse1.. Toyota uses dual port injection and no turbo (no carbon issues or blow by). I think a used Lexus V6 would make more sense than an expensive Mazda 3 turbo. The issues Honda is having with blow by on the 1.8 liter turbo is exactly why Toyota doesn't use them. Also made in Mexico gives me some pause but so far they seem solid. I do like how the Mazda looks and handles along with the interior.
@@Lyka-clock I don't. A used Lexus would cost the same as a brand new Mazda 3 turbo. I'd rather start new than used. Also, the M3 turbo gets a bit better mileage than the naturally aspirated Lexus V6. Not that this part matters a whole lot, but the M3 turbo is a bit quicker than the Lexus V6. While it's true that Lexus' use of port injection does away with carbon buildup, there are steps that can be taken to prevent carbon buildup in DI engines. Also, turbos aren't exclusive to carbon buildup issues. This is a thing on ANY direct injection engine whether it's turbocharged or not. And I said before, the Mazda Skyactiv engine is designed to run hotter than a typical engine which helps mitigate and delay carbon buildup issues. Another thing is the innovative piston head design in the Skyactiv engine helps ensure an even and more complete burn on the combustion cycle than a typical engine. This should help lower the amount of carbon buildup as well.
@@bwelmhouse1 ..You make good points and I don't blame anyone for getting into Mazda these days. The thing about a Lexus is that there over built and made to last through a lot of the original parts. You don't just replace everything as it gets older. This also adds to the overall cost of ownership. Resale is also excellent. Who wants a hammered GDI turbo that's got 130,000 miles on it? I wouldn't mind grabbing a Lexus though. As far as used goes, I see Lexus often 3 years old with very low miles that are comparable. in the end, it'll easily outlast any Mazda anyway so brand new doesn't matter much. I ended up getting a new 2024 Corolla. I just need a simple car with great MPG's. I will be trading in for a Lexus when the car market calms down a bit.
@@Lyka-clock To be fair, the 4th gen Mazda 3 has only been around for 6 years, so it's too early to conclude that a Lexus would outlast it. We just don't know that yet. The Skyactiv engine and Mazda's transmission, even on the older Mazdas have easily gotten 300K miles, if not more on them before they've failed. They're extremely well-built engines and transmissions! This is of course, after Mazda parted ways with Ford. Mazda's reliability has been historically excellent, since divorcing Ford. Consumer reports also rated Mazda top in reliability a couple years ago. Only time will tell which brand will outdo the other in terms of reliability. It's evident right now that Mazda and Lexus are so close to each other in reliability, that determining which will overtake the other in reliability, amounts to splitting hairs. The difference in reliability between the two brands isn't looking to be drastic.
Lots of little glitches is just the nature of modern cars. Cars have become so much more computerized and stuffed with technology and features that multiple things are bound to glitch. Cars aren't simple machines like they used to be, and that introduces new problems.
My 2019 3 gs transmission would bang horrifically when re-engaging the cruise control.Thought the tranny was going to fall out.Happened a few times and fixed with software update.Rain sensing tech not right but otherwise the build quality and driving experience with this car is excellent.Gas mileage is also awesome.Next best thing to a luxury car .
Creeks 'n rattles at a premium car? damn, that rises an eyebrow. The rest of the minor faults (especially the software related ones) dont bother me so much, they're fixable.
I’d say mazda, subaru, and toyota are really behind on technology. My hyundai elantra felt very advanced but I’m about to get a corolla hybrid and from what I’ve gathered from the test drive is it is better now but still has a good ways to go
Agreed. Mazda lags way way behind. Lane keeping system is useless, there's no way to adjust height of passenger seat, no 12 v outlet. Elantra has all these features.
@@human_hope I'm perfectly happy without all those features. I couldn't care less if Mazda doesn't have the unnecessary features that the other makes do. They're just more things to break or glitch. I like having a simpler car. I turned off lane-keep-assist and many other features I'm never going to use anyway. You also have to remember that what Mazda lacks in those trivial features, it makes up for by being much more fun and engaging to drive than Subaru and Toyota. Mazda also corners like a beast, unlike Subaru or Toyota. I've driven all of the above and the Mazda is a huge win in my book.
@@bwelmhouse1 those aren't unnecessary features, you're telling me adjusting passenger seat height is a useless feature? This is why manufacturers keep getting away inferior technology. Because there are people who will defend and buy it regardless.
@@human_hope They're highly unnecessary features to me. People have gotten too spoiled. People like you think the car is inferior if it doesn't have every bell and whistle that's been invented. Mazda is very far from inferior. VERY. What it lacks in features compared to the Elantra, more than makes up for it with its incredible handling that the Elantra doesn't have. It feels and looks far more luxury than an Elantra. It's quieter and smoother than one as well. I wouldn't call that "lagging behind".
@@bwelmhouse1 then you're just a blind follower fanboy that you're still willing to defend Mazda even if you can't adjust the height of passenger seat. It has got nothing to do with being spoiled. Even the most basic cars have these features but I guess fanboys view things differently
No car or motorbike manufacturer will ever install quality OEM tires , brake pads or batteries. There is a lot of motorbikes today that the moment you buy them, you replace the OEM tires. In some like the Suzuki GSX 1000GT/TRQ or GSX S100GX, you have to replace the brake pads immediately. Window wiper not excluded and the plastics on the dash and trims. Cost cutting by the manufacturers. Why the thin little spare wheels?? You realy think it will help in the middle of AUS.? ?
That myth about the Mexico made Mazdas being inferior just needs to die. The Japan made Mazdas have just as many issues as the Mexico made ones. Yes, in the distant past there were quality control issues at the Mexico factory, but Mazda CEOs addressed the issues at that factory, and they've been at the same level of quality as the Japan factory for the last many years. This myth about the Mexico factory being inferior, is about as obsolete as people still thinking Mazda engines are made by Ford. A bad era for a company gets stuck in people's minds and they keep thinking things are still the same. It's a weird fallacy people fall into the trap of.
@@GeorgeHenry-k5e What issues did you have? You're certainly not better off with a BMW. They are known for being unreliable and much more expensive to repair.
Thanks for this insightful vid! I got a 2024 Mazda 3 sedan a couple months ago and it’s been such a pleasure to drive. It’s nice to know you’ve had no major issues over the course of ownership to date. I know no car is perfect, so it sounds like you’re pretty happy with the car overall. Thanks for posting!
✌🏻👍🏻✌🏻
Yes, despite the few minor issues I'm extremely happy with both our Mazda 3's. They're very comfortable, quiet, powerful and very fun to drive. I like both the turbo and non-turbo in different ways. I even thought about doing a comparison video between the two, as the driving dynamics are a bit different for both.
I've got a 2024 Sport going on to one year ownership. I love the car but it's not without issues. Every once in a while the parking brake wouldn't automatically disengage when it's put in drive (I believe this is a new feature for 2024), after only a few months the key fob battery died, the car wouldn't start on the first try sometimes if it would sit for a day(dealer said everything looked fine and basically shrugged their shoulders), and now I have a small EVAP leak which the dealer couldn't figure out. Mazda Canada told them to replace a part which is now on order. Oh and rattles are completely bonkers in the winter but in the summer they basically clear up. When it gets cold my car sounds like it's a 20 year old beater with a symphony of rattles coming from everywhere. My car is made in Japan too.
I have the Blue paint and it's also holding up very well too. I had a few chips but the Mazda touchup pen works well. In my opinion the whole thin paint thing is way overblown.
I got a 2021 Mazda CX-5 with the same engine and transmission. You are spot on with the transmission issues around switching between reverse and drive, but I think that's common in most torque converters where the inside fluid has momentum and has to settle, so I usually wait for a tiny bit after switching between drive and reverse before hitting the gas.
I think you're right. The Mazda uses an unconventional torque converter set up, so I can see how its behavior may seem unusual when accelerating from a stop or switching back and forth between P and R.
I totally agree with tires on a new vehicle. I agree they are not terrible, but they are not good either. Thanks for the video.
Reduced rolling resistance to bump EPA rating.
I own a 2021 Mazda3, naturally aspirated, bought new three years ago. I now have 36,000 miles. My issues:
--interior creaks, rattles, and buzzes from the dashboard, door panels and windows, and seatbelt mechanisms, with the loudest and most annoying buzz coming from the infotainment screen (a technical bulletin for the infotainment screen buzz was issued);
--a rattle coming from the prop rod that holds the engine hood open that was so loud under acceleration, I thought there was an engine issue (a techical bulletin issue was issued). For now, I have removed the prop rod;
--the see-thru plastic cover over the instrument panel scratches EXTREMELY easily, and many Mazda3 and CX-30 owners have complained on Mazda forums. You literally cannot clean the cover without scratching it, even when using a Microfibre cloth. Inevitably, you will get fine, spider-web like scratches that are particularly noticeable in direct sunlight;
--the exterior trunk release button works only randomly. Not sure what the issue is. The interior trunk release button and the remote trunk release, however, do work;
--since my car was new, after filling my gas tank, my fuel gauge does not quite go all the way to Full. It goes to just short of the Full line, except on a handful of occasions, when it did go all the way to Full;
--on one occasion, my car did stall when accelerating from a stop at a stoplight. Not sure what happened, but it never happened again;
--sometimes, when accelerating from a stop, the car has an ever so slight hesitation. Maybe a transmission software update will help, like it helped the person in this video;
--the exterior paint is simply too thin and chip prone. The fake chrome on my front grille trim piece has also received a big chip;
--the navigation software is terrible, even with updates, with regards to giving you the speed limit of the road you're on. In fact, after the latest update, the accuracy of speed limits on side roads and country roads, which were once accurate under the last software update, now default to 25 MPH. Google maps can be accurate, so accuracy is possible, no excuses;
--the Bridgestone Turanzas are terrible, and I plan on replacing them with Continental Extreme Contacts; and
--the transmission is a sealed unit. As a result, the two Mazda dealers in my area refuse to change the transmission fluid, regardless of mileage. A transmission, even if it is sealed, should have its fluid changed at 50,000 to 75,000 miles, if not earlier.
Otherwise, no engine or transmission issues.
Interesting. I've not had a single interior rattle or creak now since months before posting this video. I had them on and off for awhile, but no more. Odd. The only rattle though is what sounds like a loose heat shield under brisk acceleration and only when the engine vibrates at a certain range of RPMs. I wonder if mine is also the prop rod. Hmmm, I could tape it down and see if it goes away, as a test.
Yeah, this hesitation when accelerating from a stop is very annoying. The ECU reprogramming per the TSB ended up not fixing the issue. I thought it did, but it didn't. My workaround to that issue is to pause for a second after lifting off the brake pedal before pressing the accelerator pedal. It seems that the torque converter or transmission just needs a moment to engage and is slow to do so. I had a technician at the dealership duplicate the issue but he had no idea how to solve it or if it was even normal behavior for this model. I asked him to drive another one on the lot to see if it does the same. He drove a brand new 2024 for comparison and noted that that one also did the little hesitation thing, but he said it wasn't quite as pronounced on that one, but still present nonetheless.
Interesting that the dealers in your area refuse the transmission flush. I definitely want to get mine done at around 50K, for the sake of being proactive with maintenance. I do think doing it sooner than 50K is excessive. I'm also big on having them do the fuel induction cleaning service every 20 to 30K miles to prevent heavy carbon buildups.
I have a 2021 Mazda 3 turbo hatch and have had some similar issues. Of course (and this seems to be the case with Honda, Toyota, VW and many other makes) the battery that comes from the factory isn't the best, mine failed at just over 2 years as well. I also had an issue once with the fuel door, but pushing it in about 3 times did the trick and it's never happened again. I haven't had any door or hatch seal leaks so maybe that's just the sedan? The door handle has never failed to sense my fingers, so lucky on that I guess. I change the key fob batteries once a year (same time as home smoke detectors) and haven't had an issue. Only thing I've had that you haven't is my infotainment screen has gone blank on me twice, fixed by pulling over, shutting down the car and restarting. That hasn't happened in quite a while now. (Knock on wood) I haven't experienced any other issues so far, but the paint could be thicker for sure...but still better than Honda. Overall I'm very pleased with my 3, far less niggling issues than the 2016 VW GTI that preceded it, also bought brand new. The biggest thing on the GTI was the sunroof frame cracking and leaking water into the headliner, and also had infotainment weirdness and lots of rattles and creaks, backup camera failed (or mechanism that deploys it from under the rear badge) replaced under warranty. Things like that and the moonroof on the Mazda have been flawless so far.
I also have a 2022 M3 turbo sedan. I like having both a naturally aspirated version and a turbo version. There are things I like about one over the other, for both cars.
Sad facts from someone who changed lots of cars, both private and company:
- in about last 7-8y EVERY new car had lots of small issues like you're describing
- most rattle and creak in the interior, be it Honda, VW, Mazda or Ford
- paint is thinner than ever
- due to ecology (at least in Europe) they have cylinder deactivation, at least mild-hybrid systems, advanced particle filters etc., all is great until you have issues
Bottom line, get the one you can afford that's FUN for you AND has reliable important parts like engine and transmission. Mazda, Toyota/Lexus are good examples.
If you think this is bad, buy a French car, speaking from experience, it'll look ultra SciFi and be comfy, but you'll have about twice the issues.
As soon as your new car warranty ends - think about replacing it if you did lots of warranty claims.
Well i got a 24 hatchback with a manual transmission. Haven't had any problem yet.... We shall see
Hope you haven’t had issues yet lol
With the door handles not sensing, it appears in the video that your thumb is making contact with the indent used to lock the car. If this indent is touched at the same time as the rear of the door handle (to unlock) the system doesn’t know what to do and will just not respond. Happened to me for the first few weeks of ownership :)
Yes, but there is a TSB addressing the issue of the sensors not detecting the hand intermittently. I forgot what causes it, but I personally don't care enough about it to spend money on it. Normally my thumb is not in contact with the indent. This was just a fluke when filming the video.
The lurch forward might be if you’ve just started the car the engine runs higher revs to warm up the engine.
I have a 2019 Mazda 3 hatch AWD. It’s been an ok car. Tiny gas tank so if you are planning to travel a lot in it be aware of that. Also, have had quite a few issues with electronics. Constantly tells me I’m low on windshield wiper fluid. Also, coming down from higher elevations to lower, the car always tells me there is an engine malfunction. Issues with Bluetooth connecting as well. I give it a 6 out of 10 and definitely should have gone with a 6 or Civic
I can go about 430 miles on a full tank on freeway road trips. Also, the 2019 has a lot of bugs. It was the first year of the generation, which traditionally has the most problems. Honestly, you should have gone with a later year of the Mazda 3. The Civics have gone down in reliability. I wouldn't buy a Honda nowadays.
The fuel door has a setting to lock after 30, 60, 90, or 120 seconds, so you may have just waited too long and it autolocked
No, that's definitely not the issue. It's completely random and it doesn't happen on our 2022.
Very informative. Good info.
6:49 YES my 22 Maz3 infotainment screen rattles like a Western diamondback drives me crazy!!!!
I guess I been lucky, because I've had no rattling for a long time, and had a little in the 2021 off and on earlier in my ownership. I haven't had any rattling yet in my 2022.
@@bwelmhouse1 right on, mine seems to do it more when it's hot weather. Otherwise it's very quiet.
Mine mostly has it on some special days on the autobahn, if its colder its quiet, if its hotter its quiet. But thats the thing with plastic, it rattles, sadly. But I would rather have one more plastic thing then paying 2-3X the Price for a car with less plastic, but that still has it somewhere.
Rattling that quickly goes away often comes from plastics expanding when it's summer (or reverse, it contracts when you switch on the AC to quickly cool down the interior). But it may very well be something else in the Mazda 3.
It doesn't seem to matter what the temperature is. The creaks and rattles were pretty random. That said, it's been many months now since the last rattle or creak.
The rattles tend to stop with heat but come back when it’s cold for me
@@ILikeCheeseOnBees Yeah, for some people it's temperature dependent, but for me it's seemingly random.
Isn’t your car still on the warranty?
I live in Australia and I have a Masta 3 evolve and the only thing that I’ve had problems with is when the safety thing comes up and it came up a couple of times went back to the Mazda dealership service department and found out it was getting wet so they replaced it now I do not know what it’s like in the US but here in Australia my master or any master has a five year on kilometres warranty so that means you must’ve had some type of warranty mate why didn’t you take it back to the most the dealership and get them to fix it cause it sounds like little problems you’ve got and it looks like you worry too much about the problem and not get the feel of the drive of the car cause I love my Mazda 3
Honestly, I don't worry about the small issues. I very much enjoy driving this car. It's a blast to drive! I love it just as much as the day we bought it. The drivetrain is still under warranty, but no problems with it really.
Your fuel door didn't even look flush-aligned to the body. Was the car assembled in Mexico? What does the VIN begin with? “JM1” or “3MZ”？
It is flush aligned. That's an illusion in the video. Car was assembled in Mexico, but it's a total myth that Mazdas from the Mexico plant are inferior to the Japan made ones. Mazda corrected that situation a long time ago, and now the Mexico factory is standardized to the Japan one. There are just as many customers reporting issues with their Japan assembled ones. In fact, a comment right above yours is a guy with issues with his Mazda assembled in Japan.
How is your mpg? Your display said 36.5 avg mpg. What about Highway/City over the last 3 years?
MPG is pretty good I'd say, for an engine this size and compression ratio. My MPG over the last 3 years is probably around 35.5. I do about 80% highway and 20% city. But even on the highway runs, I encounter traffic lights occasionally and stop-and-go traffic once in a while. If I'm hypermiling and doing at least a 2 hour drive with only a few traffic lights/stop signs, I can easily get 42 mpg. I think the best mpg I ever got on one drive was 47 mpg on a 1.5 hour drive on a highway and I stopped about 4 times at a light or stop sign and I was purposefully hypermiling by driving the car incredibly gently just to see what my best number could be.
@@bwelmhouse1 Wow, excellent information. Thank You
I have a 2023 Mazda 3 Turbo and the worst thing wrong with the car is the suspension. It just sucks on less than ideal road surfaces. Smooth roads this car drives amazing. Also in the case of emergency steering the rear end is ridiculously sloppy almost to be point of dangerous. Needs rear sway bar bad, That's the main 2 driving characteristics that need correction.
There must be something mechanically wrong with your car or your tires are drastically over or underinflated. I don't have ANY of the problems with mine that you seem to have with yours. I also belong to a Mazda3 sub-reddit and have never heard anyone complain about an unstable rear-end, and I've read hundreds of reviews on this car and follow the sub closely. Get your car checked out by a mechanic. Those things you mentioned are not characteristic of the Mazda3.
I also own the turbo version and the car feels amazingly stable in all kinds of road conditions and driving styles. I can maneuver far more aggressively in the car than I ever could in any other car I've ever owned.
Also, on less than smooth road surfaces, with the sporty, low-profile tires, you're going to feel bumps and imperfections a lot more than you would with tires of higher sidewalls. What you're describing with rough roads has more to do with the tires than the car itself. As well, the suspension is sportier and stiffer on these cars so it won't be as smooth as say, an SUV. But even at that, the car absorbs the bumps and imperfections amazingly well for such a sporty suspension and tires. If it bothers you, you can always change to 16" wheels for tires with a taller side-wall. You'll have a smoother ride just with that.
That's because this is an imposter version of the real Mazda3, which suppose to only come with Focus' Control Blade multi-link rear suspension (Those without such suspension were called Mazda Protege/323 & Ford Escort). With torsion beam, it's just a supersized quieter Mazda2, therefore should be called Mazda20 instead, just like CX-3 vs CX-30! LOL
Btw, “rear sway” bar will increase oversteer. Is this what you want?
@@creakid What do you mean the Mazda 3 is supposed to come with the Ford Focus MLRS? Mazda has not been affiliated with Ford since 2015. And there were never any plans for the 4th gen to have a MLRS. The torsion beam is a complete non-issue. Anyone complaining about it is really just suffering from the equivalent of the "placebo effect". It's all in their heads.
After Ford got kicked out, Focus' MLRS continued to hang around, in both Volvo V40 & Mazda CX-5. I just test drove a 2025 Mazda3 hatch auto base model, & was impressed by the more “(detailed) steering feel & sound insulation” than Civic's, plus a rare “thigh-angle adjustment knob” on a manual seat: th-cam.com/video/gAn6m16NjLM/w-d-xo.html
But, despite riding on these tires' 205/60-16 tall sidewalls, its torsion beam's “inferior ride cushiness than Civic/Corolla/Impreza's” is a deal breaker. I'm still driving my 1990 Protege DOHC with 8.9" of rear suspension travel (TTL independent with “severe camber change” tail happiness): th-cam.com/video/V6pd2C-XZ4w/w-d-xo.html
This is so useful! Thanks for this. I was gonna order a Mazda 3 next week but have now decided to go for another vehicle.
Which one?
@@bwelmhouse1 I added a few thousand more and purchased a Cupra Ateca.
@@Slavic_Boer Not one bad experience. This vid just served to confirm my concerns about the vehicle. It aims to be an entry level premium vehicle but it lacks a multi-link set up. The cylinder deactivation is also a concern. Poor paint durability. No air vents or USB in the rear. The list goes on. Cheers.
@@stevebarila9917 Cylinder deactivation is not on all Mazda 3's. Neither of my 3's have it. I didn't want it, so I got the Mazda 3 models without that feature.
@@bwelmhouse1 Unfortunately in this market all new Mazda vehicles have cylinder deactivation.
I understand but 30k miles isnt really what nost people worry about. What about 70k 100k 150k? You know the places where you usually see skmething go wrong big or small
I disagree, strongly. I own a 2021 Mazda3, naturally aspirated, bought new three years ago. I now have 36,000 miles. I think a 30,000 mile review will give a very good indication of initial quality, especially as 3 years/36,000 miles is often the bumper-to-bumper warranty offered by manufacturers. Don't get me wrong. A review at 60,000 miles (the end of the powertrain warranty) and then at 100,000 miles, etc., would also be great.
I plan on reviewing the car again at those higher mileage intervals.
@@thehighllama8101 I definitely plan on reviewing the car again at those higher mileages.
Had 195,000 miles on my 2019 3 without any issues until it had a collision with Jane the doe.
Gas door pin permanent fix is a shot of WD=40. I had a bunch more little issues with my Mazda 3 but got enough out of it before I traded it in. Don't think it's built better than Toyota but yes very fun to drive. Wish the rear visibility was better and carbon build up wasn't an issue also.
Did you have carbon buildup issues on yours?? Carbon buildup is not exclusive to Mazdas. All of the modern direct injection engines have this issue, regardless of car brand. Regardless, not doing a lot of short trips and allowing the engine to fully warm up, as well as doing the fuel induction cleaning service every so often, will help prevent carbon buildup. In fact, Mazda designed their Skyactiv engines to run a bit hotter than the average engine to help prevent carbon buildup.
@@bwelmhouse1.. Toyota uses dual port injection and no turbo (no carbon issues or blow by). I think a used Lexus V6 would make more sense than an expensive Mazda 3 turbo. The issues Honda is having with blow by on the 1.8 liter turbo is exactly why Toyota doesn't use them. Also made in Mexico gives me some pause but so far they seem solid. I do like how the Mazda looks and handles along with the interior.
@@Lyka-clock I don't. A used Lexus would cost the same as a brand new Mazda 3 turbo. I'd rather start new than used. Also, the M3 turbo gets a bit better mileage than the naturally aspirated Lexus V6. Not that this part matters a whole lot, but the M3 turbo is a bit quicker than the Lexus V6. While it's true that Lexus' use of port injection does away with carbon buildup, there are steps that can be taken to prevent carbon buildup in DI engines. Also, turbos aren't exclusive to carbon buildup issues. This is a thing on ANY direct injection engine whether it's turbocharged or not. And I said before, the Mazda Skyactiv engine is designed to run hotter than a typical engine which helps mitigate and delay carbon buildup issues. Another thing is the innovative piston head design in the Skyactiv engine helps ensure an even and more complete burn on the combustion cycle than a typical engine. This should help lower the amount of carbon buildup as well.
@@bwelmhouse1 ..You make good points and I don't blame anyone for getting into Mazda these days. The thing about a Lexus is that there over built and made to last through a lot of the original parts. You don't just replace everything as it gets older. This also adds to the overall cost of ownership. Resale is also excellent. Who wants a hammered GDI turbo that's got 130,000 miles on it? I wouldn't mind grabbing a Lexus though. As far as used goes, I see Lexus often 3 years old with very low miles that are comparable. in the end, it'll easily outlast any Mazda anyway so brand new doesn't matter much. I ended up getting a new 2024 Corolla. I just need a simple car with great MPG's. I will be trading in for a Lexus when the car market calms down a bit.
@@Lyka-clock To be fair, the 4th gen Mazda 3 has only been around for 6 years, so it's too early to conclude that a Lexus would outlast it. We just don't know that yet. The Skyactiv engine and Mazda's transmission, even on the older Mazdas have easily gotten 300K miles, if not more on them before they've failed. They're extremely well-built engines and transmissions! This is of course, after Mazda parted ways with Ford. Mazda's reliability has been historically excellent, since divorcing Ford. Consumer reports also rated Mazda top in reliability a couple years ago. Only time will tell which brand will outdo the other in terms of reliability. It's evident right now that Mazda and Lexus are so close to each other in reliability, that determining which will overtake the other in reliability, amounts to splitting hairs. The difference in reliability between the two brands isn't looking to be drastic.
I was thinking of buying 2024 Mazda 3 Sadan prepared model . What do you think reliably for 5-6 years ?
Too early to say, but so far no major mechanical issues.
I like this car, but whoa, that's a long list of little glitches.
Lots of little glitches is just the nature of modern cars. Cars have become so much more computerized and stuffed with technology and features that multiple things are bound to glitch. Cars aren't simple machines like they used to be, and that introduces new problems.
My 2019 3 gs transmission would bang horrifically when re-engaging the cruise control.Thought the tranny was going to fall out.Happened a few times and fixed with software update.Rain sensing tech not right but otherwise the build quality and driving experience with this car is excellent.Gas mileage is also awesome.Next best thing to a luxury car .
Creeks 'n rattles at a premium car? damn, that rises an eyebrow. The rest of the minor faults (especially the software related ones) dont bother me so much, they're fixable.
Our car stopped rattling months ago.
I’d say mazda, subaru, and toyota are really behind on technology. My hyundai elantra felt very advanced but I’m about to get a corolla hybrid and from what I’ve gathered from the test drive is it is better now but still has a good ways to go
Agreed. Mazda lags way way behind. Lane keeping system is useless, there's no way to adjust height of passenger seat, no 12 v outlet. Elantra has all these features.
@@human_hope I'm perfectly happy without all those features. I couldn't care less if Mazda doesn't have the unnecessary features that the other makes do. They're just more things to break or glitch. I like having a simpler car. I turned off lane-keep-assist and many other features I'm never going to use anyway. You also have to remember that what Mazda lacks in those trivial features, it makes up for by being much more fun and engaging to drive than Subaru and Toyota. Mazda also corners like a beast, unlike Subaru or Toyota. I've driven all of the above and the Mazda is a huge win in my book.
@@bwelmhouse1 those aren't unnecessary features, you're telling me adjusting passenger seat height is a useless feature? This is why manufacturers keep getting away inferior technology. Because there are people who will defend and buy it regardless.
@@human_hope They're highly unnecessary features to me. People have gotten too spoiled. People like you think the car is inferior if it doesn't have every bell and whistle that's been invented. Mazda is very far from inferior. VERY. What it lacks in features compared to the Elantra, more than makes up for it with its incredible handling that the Elantra doesn't have. It feels and looks far more luxury than an Elantra. It's quieter and smoother than one as well. I wouldn't call that "lagging behind".
@@bwelmhouse1 then you're just a blind follower fanboy that you're still willing to defend Mazda even if you can't adjust the height of passenger seat. It has got nothing to do with being spoiled. Even the most basic cars have these features but I guess fanboys view things differently
This guy sure looks a bit like John Cena :)))))))))))))))
How do you know what John Cena looks like? 🤨
That’s impossible
No car or motorbike manufacturer will ever install quality OEM tires , brake pads or batteries. There is a lot of motorbikes today that the moment you buy them, you replace the OEM tires. In some like the Suzuki GSX 1000GT/TRQ or GSX S100GX, you have to replace the brake pads immediately. Window wiper not excluded and the plastics on the dash and trims. Cost cutting by the manufacturers. Why the thin little spare wheels?? You realy think it will help in the middle of AUS.? ?
Wouldn't have any of those problems now that the 2025 sedan is made in Japan instead of Mexico.
That myth about the Mexico made Mazdas being inferior just needs to die. The Japan made Mazdas have just as many issues as the Mexico made ones. Yes, in the distant past there were quality control issues at the Mexico factory, but Mazda CEOs addressed the issues at that factory, and they've been at the same level of quality as the Japan factory for the last many years.
This myth about the Mexico factory being inferior, is about as obsolete as people still thinking Mazda engines are made by Ford. A bad era for a company gets stuck in people's minds and they keep thinking things are still the same. It's a weird fallacy people fall into the trap of.
Dont recommend these cars personally.
Why?
@bwelmhouse1 Mine has been plagued with issues after a year of ownership. I've sold it and bought a BMW now.
@@GeorgeHenry-k5eyou trolling
@@GeorgeHenry-k5e What issues did you have? You're certainly not better off with a BMW. They are known for being unreliable and much more expensive to repair.