Just want to give a big shout out to Peter. The engine light had came on on our mazda 6. My wife took it into the dealers and they couldn't find the fault, so they cleared the engine light and sent her on her way. I took the car to work the next day and the same thing happened, engine light on and loss of power. I searched online for a similar issue and this TH-cam video sounded spot on to the problems we were having. My wife took the car back into the dealers the next morning armed with the knowledge for the mechanic to maybe check the same sensor. Lo and behold, that's exactly what the problem was, the error codes matched up. The service department actually thanked my wife for bringing it to their attention as they could have quite easily went down another path. They the parts instore and fixed it by lunchtime and sent her on her way. A week later and the car has been running faultlessly. Thanks so much Peter, I'm sure we would have paid a much larger sum before the dealers discovered the correct problem. Cheers
I’m anticipating having to remove this pipe on mine. Thank you so much for sharing the possibility of doing it without removing the turbos. Important note: I’ve already just upgraded that sensor (how I discovered the blocked pipe). The short wire that comes with the new sensor isn’t just an extension - if you look closely it actually swaps the two outer wires over. Fortunately I noticed before making the mistake of deciding it would be a neater job without it 😂
That is correct Josh. The polarity does change with the extension piece, well spotted 💪💪💪 And the steel pipe can be quite fiddly, but totally doable . Good luck with it 🤞🤞
Great video and detail, Peter. A quick temporary fix for those steel pipes is an inner handbrake cable wire on a drill to clear the blockage without removal.
Oh, I tried to get it clean for 2-3 hrs & then gave up, I tried everything but not a handbrake cable. I also cut the pipe while the owner was there so can’t try it but will remember it for the next time, nice one Dave. Thank you 🙏
I ended up trying this successfully. My cable was a bit thicker than yours (was all I had). Think I spent about an hour alternating between the drill and compressed air down a thin straw to blow it out as I loosened it a few mm at a time. Then I used the air line to give it a final blast through when I suspected it was clear.
I do confirm that the steel rope does the job ! I poured standard thinners to the pipe to let it soak over night and repeated again with egr cleaner in the morning ( another 2h). Then I bought 3mm steel rope from wicks for £7.40 - cheaper than the handbrake cable. I cut it to the size ( enough to reach the end of the pipe and enough for hand drill chuck. It took me about 5 mins to unblock it ! Saved £600(quoted for replacing the pipe) thank you very much you both guys for sharing your experience!!!! P.s. I was using a big syringe to check for the blockage - resistance means still blocked
Well..got code p2262 and changed exhaust pressure sensor. Still showing code and no turbo boost. Delivered it to Mazda dealer today and they said pipe to exhaust pressure sensor is blocked. They quote 2000 euro to change it. You sir are a genius. Think I'll might try your way😂 (Norway)
Dan, it is fiddly but something you could possibly do yourself with limited tools. If you haven’t done it before I would say to give yourself a day to do it. Just in case you get frustrated and need to take a break 😂😂 The very best of luck with it 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks man. I Will do eventually. Not the kind of work to do outside when it's snowing and -10 degrees. 😂 Mazda wants to take engine out to replace it😂 keep up the good work
I just rebuild a sh01 diesel engine in my own head im a great lad 😏 Watching you in i relise how much i have to learn with these Your diagnosis is very impressive And you helped me today Thank
Fair play to you for doing that 💪💪 And we are all learning everyday, any that thinks that they know it all knows very little 🤔 I’m glad it helped you 🙏🙏👍
I came here from MRniceguy94 who had a video up detailing a carbon clean he had performed on a 2.2. My 2013 went into limp mode after low oil pressure warning when I was driving up an incline. I'd this issue last year too. Had to get oil sump gauze cleaned out and injector seals done. I don't think they cleaned it out. I'm not mechanically knowledgeable so have gone online to check what the issue is. I'm thinking my engine will be covered in built up grime as well. I checked the dipstick, oil level ok but noticed a small golden residue on it as well which probably isn't a good sign. This will be costing me another small fortune no doubt. I bought mazda for 'reliability'! Think I'll get rid of it soon. Scunnered with this problem.
I wonder could you just have an oil dilution fault 🤔🤔 It is just a counter that can be reset Mazda 6 oil light on & P253F oil dilution, reset procedure th-cam.com/video/aNO0-cHCCsA/w-d-xo.html
I started my career working on Minis and Hillman Imps and used to moan on about that there was no bloody room to work on them little did I know at the time what the future had in store 😩. Great diagnosis and fix there Peter
Hi Evan, it wasn’t too bad. A bit fiddly but quite a stupid place to put bolts in my opinion 🤔 Nice to hear from you ,I hope you are keeping well and busy in the garage 👍
Great video on how to get to that pipe!! Mine 2014 Mazda 4 2.2 alarmed first for SCBS inspection required then at the same time the engine heating light and now I have a engine light inspection, Mazda told me this was needing a carbon clean for 2k I decided to look at it myself, the auto electrician I had says all the alarms are all connected to one fault even tho it throws up 4 including instrument panel he also believes it's this pipe and sensor giving the griff. Fingers crossed it'll sort it!!
Both the pipe gets blocked and the sensor on top of it fail quite often. They are both very easily tested, so he is more than likely on the right track if he’s not happy with the results he got. Fingers crossed Dean 🤞
Hi pal nice one .. Had a friend yesterday he failed on nct visual rear discs going to do friday...then he explains this lag sometime like boost stops then comes bk in ...so first time under the bonnet had a root around found blocked map ...partly blocked dpf pipes but not really bad ...so the car is s 9 out of 10 from lets say 5 ... He happy ....but i can feel a little room still ...knew nothing about this pipe ...i wonder now is mine that pipe also .... Try friday ....yeah they are a fiddly bas to do anything
This exhaust pressure sensor & pipe do dictate boost pressure. The sensor fails very often and there is a revised one available for it now. I find the best way to clear them if blocked is with heat and compressed air. It could save a lot of time for you 🤞🤞🤞
lovely video, great tips! I have a 2014 mazda 3 with this 2.2 skyactiv diesel and its not realy smooth in low rpm/ low speeds , especially when cold . and its at least 30 hp short on power (120 when stock instead of 150 , 187 after tuning but should be 210-230) no fault codes whatsoever though. Mazda told me they need to clean the valves but I dont believe it will make such a big difference in terms of power, now i have some ideas what to check , thanks!
Hi Sigour, sorry for the delayed response. I only seeing the comment now 😞 The intake manifold ports can get very blocked, from around 30mm down to around 5 or 10mm. This is a big issue with this engine & I would be worth pulling of the manifold just for a look, it isn’t too hard a job around 2 hrs. Only if you haven’t found anything by now 🤞👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 no problem mate! I had the intake, turbo and EGR removed and cleaned, also the valves ofcourse (manually cleaned not with H2O pulses bullshit). I had the DPF filter removed and cleaned and performs complete service (oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air and cabin filter, manual transmission fluid will be done next week). but still a very hesitant, rough, powerless drive at low speeds, still drinking oil, still no power whatsoever above 4000 rpm. this week new airflow sensor should arrive, also mazda garage will reset ECU into learning the injectors how to run again. hope anything helps hahaha. When the car is warm its pretty okay, only no power above 4000rpm,there is a 1-3 second delay on any power I ask, and flooring it in , say 3th gear I feel a slightly inconsistant power delivery thoughout the rpm. Pulls very hard though, had it run 225kmph in germany couple weeks ago.
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks for another tip! How did this car behave with the bad camshaft? I cant understand how the camshaft could be bad , But I dont say its impossible. Car did mostly highway miles and has complete official mazda service history. I put in another airflow sensor and had the injactors go through a relearn procedure, car is more smooth now. I will follow up on the oil level now (yesterday It was below minimum and I topped it up to maximum about 600 miles ago, this is scary stuff) 😥. doesnt leak or smoke though 😏. My garage said next guess is oil scraper rings or valve seals. Shoild have kept my previous mazda 3 with the 1.6 MZ-CD PSA engine. it ran 200.000 miles with zero problems 🤣
Hi Peter, I have the same problem on my mazda, wastegate not opening and P2263 fault code, exhaust pipe blocked How you removed the vvt solenoid? It's only one screw right? Many thanks
Great to see such indepth knowledge sharing on these motors, I ran one from 2019 to March of this year, a 2016 car with 77k on purchase and 117k when gone. I didn't have a minute's trouble with it but I was changing the oil every 10k or annually, whichever came sooner, and it was doing regens every 300km or so (obviously it wasn't doing much mileage at all during the pandemic). Was I just lucky or were more frequent oil changes helping things? Ended up buying a Mazda 3 with the Skyactiv-X engine anyhow. Be interested to hear your thoughts on these.
Hi Benny, most of the problems with these start to arise after 120,000kms. Yours would probably have driven away fine until 130 or 140 due to the comprehensive service schedule. But it is inevitable that the intake manifold, exhaust camshaft & sensor fail. Injector washers would be replaced when doing the camshaft. The newer engine design doesn’t have these problems 💪💪💪
It is back to old fashioned testing so. Check the turbo pressure pipe just to be sure. It has 2 turbos and the change over flap can come loose and fall off. Pull out the battery & remove the bolted on intake pipe running over the top of the bell housing. That is worth a look too 🤔
Hey Peter from cork there Just purchased a mazda 6 private sale the other the 2.2 skyactive 2015. And the car hesitates to go over 3000rpm The power is there but I think it's limited. Any way you could help much appreciated!
Hi Brendan, the first thing you should check is the map sensor (boost pressure sensor) it is very easy to get at just at the timing chain side of the intake manifold under the wiring loom. It is held in with an 8mm bolt. Remove it and see if it is blocked up with carbon. If so just clean it with a small screwdriver or pin 📌 Let me know how you go 🤔👍👍
Just come across your channel amazing work you do. I have a Mazda 6 2.2 185 (2009) I have a p2565 that won’t go away. Sometimes car pulls , sometimes turbo cuts out Spent hundreds on diagnostics to no avail . Any ideas?
P2565 is a turbo position sensor fault. This fault can be caused by the turbo position sensor on the turbo vacuum canister 🤔 If that test’s good you would then need to check the variable veins on the turbo to see if they are free & not sticking. After that look at the turbo control solenoid, that is the best advice I can offer without seeing the car 🤞🤞
Great work, One of the best diagnostic person on you tube, 👏 👍 i wish you were local to me, 1 question i were getting codes for Exhaust pressure sensor p0472/p0471 i have changed the sensor and codes disappeared how ever i noticed the live data reading for this sensor are around 95-100 on idle, but it goes above the red line when car goes around 2k RPM, Also i have took the sensor out of the pipe that you replaced in this video and checked live reading it was showing 96 even when sensor was just hanging around and not connected in the pipe, Is the reading 96 fixed number set by manufacturer on idle 🤔? Im not losing any power though, Also is this part connected somewhere onto exhaust ? Im having some airflow problem that might be related to this pipe been blocked? Thanks 😊
Is the exhaust pressure sensor you speak about the Differential pressure sensor ( 2 pipes) ??? If so that should read 0 mbar with engine off & no more than 20 mbar at idle . But depending on the scan tool you are using ( they can all do different things) 100 kpa is atmospheric pressure, which both of the sensors are giving you 🤔🤔 Try giving the 2 sensors pressure and verify ie. 15psi applied manually should be 200kpa if it is measuring the atmospheric pressure first 🤔 Maybe this might help 🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 exhaust pressure sensor 1 which is same in this video you changed 1 tube connected, On i have basic Autel AP200 diy tool for mazda reading range is between 0-150 Kpa but i get very close to 100 say 96 97kpa when idle around 800rpm, and goes way above the range limit over 200kpa when Cruising at around 2k rpm,
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi just checked the reading is almost same when KOEO at 100kpa AND KOER at 105kpa Supplied readings are Exhaust pressure sensor Bank 1 Is this the right name of the sensor you changed in this video? In case im reading wrong sensor?
Hey Kennedy, Just came across the real mechanic who knows his stuff and knows about Mazda. I need your help, My car is 2.2 2014 Mazda 6 with 115K miles. I recently bought the car and all of a sudden EML comes up saying P2262 code. I changed the exhaust pressure sensor, but the light is still coming on, after diagnostic in garage, they mentioned everything is fine, but don't know the excat reason of fault. They mentioned the back pressure is coming to be very high. Acc to me car is running fine, no reduced fuel economy, not lagging. Still not sure what's the case, Can you please shed some light on this issue. :)
P0102:00-AF - Mass Or Volume Air Flow Sensor A Circuit Low, P0030:00-AF - HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1), P0079:00-AF - Exhaust Valve Control Circuit Low (Bank 1), P06DB:00-AF - Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Low, P0383:00-AF - Glow Plug Control Module 1 Control Circuit Low, my cars on limp mode, have a engine warning light, dsc light and scbs light; i changed that sensor to the new one, didnt change the pipe, do you know what it could be?
I have a video on P0102 coming out this weekend. But resolve that first and go from there. It could be a fuse or power feed but in my case it was the airflow meter had failed 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 are those really that bad? Personally I’d prefer a diesel for the torque and longevity of the engine, but with all that emissions crap I guess they’re not as reliable as I thought
@@ReviewingTech101 actually with the correct maintenance, preventative or needed they are quite good. It just seems that tech’s over here don’t want to touch them 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Hi Peter, Based North of Ireland here and at a loss with my CX-5 2.2 skyactive. Apparently my DPF is too blocked to even do a forced regen (It's been on 4 computers). Low on power too at the moment (engine inspection light) and red DPF inspection triangle is on. I'm told my options are to either get the DPF mapped out, get a new one (couldn't afford this) or get it removed and cleaned but it will just clog up again I'm told. Do I slog it to Waterford or do you suggest any of the above? Thanks.
Hi, the DPF’s on these don’t give much bother but if there are any engine based faults causing more smoke in the exhaust system, then the Dpf cannot deal with that. So yes, the Dpf will only block again if you don’t repair the cause. Google Kennedysgarage.ie and send me some videos of what is happening on WhatsApp 😉👍👍👍
Hi Peter, I really enjoy how detailed and informative your videos are. If I was based in the UK I would definitely pay you a visit. Anyway, I've been searching without success for the 2014 Mazda 6 (Atenza) Diesel Workshop manual. All I can see are the petrol version ones. Do you have any leads? Thanks.
I had to watch this 1 twice as lost me a some point as to how you found the fault. Got there in end however you streets ahead of me on this one. I'd have ended up down a rabbit hole for sure
The fault code really gave no direction, after I topped up the oil by 1.5 to 2 ltrs the oil temp fault didn’t return & basically the rest was just visual. I am also a small fish in a big pond but I for 1 find a quick search on TH-cam can often give me direction when lost & hopefully my videos might do the same for others 🙏👍
Hi, My issue is P2262, I already cleaned the hole intake system and replaced map sensor and dpf sensor. The exhaust pressure sensor is already the new one since about 7 months. Turbo looks good and everything is clean now. The Car also tells me DPF Fault (sry im from Germany and trying to find solution) Nothing of that helped to solve the issue. Do you have a guess what i should check next ? Thank you so much!
Hi all the way from Ireland, P2262 is boost pressure not detected. Using a scan tool look at exhaust pressure sensor A reading just to verify if the pipe to it is clear. After that remove the battery, battery tray and and air outlet pipe from the turbo. It is held in place with 4 12mm nuts. Just to check the lower down turbo and adjoining changeover flap. Let me know what you find 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hi, thank you for the quick reply, I already checked the flap in the small turbo and everything was fine. The next days I will check the pipe and let you know. Thank you 👍🏼👍🏼
I’ve a trade MK3 2.2d 150 auto 2013. Over fueling 43 mpg at 60 mph over 4 hours. Using almost twice fuel would normally this trip modern diesel . Did get diesel particulate message an hour before home. Turned maz6 off and on and went . Got home. Cleared codes scanner DTC cannot remember. . Never seen Mazda message on car again but only driven 25 miles a time and still over fueling. I’m thinking as drives nicely this is plain old soot filter dpf full, or other. Any help greatly received. Best regards
You really need to start with a fault code , purely to see what the car isn’t happy with. You could measure the Dpf back pressure with a manual gauge, but post your codes and go from there 👍
I've got what seems like a similar issue and could really use some help. Ill describe it Just had a service done, soon after was driving one day and the car hesitated around 2.5k rpm with a very strange rattling noise, wouldnt push past 2.5k. Pulled over, turned the car off and restarted. Started driving and could hear a fairly throaty thrum accompanies by a turbo howl/whine. Cars acceleration was super sluggish now, but when it reached 2.5k rpm it behaves normally and starts accelerating quickly like normal. Any thoughts of what it could be?
From what you say, it sounds like the changeover flap for both turbos has fallen off. It is quite common failure item & a loss of power under 2500 are the symptoms. Remove the air box, battery and then the air outlet pipe from the turbo. Then look in the hole at the flap & small turbo.
The fault code had nothing to do with the pressure sensor or pipe being blocked. But the car was down on power & that was what I was trying to fix. I just started with a code scan for direction, but my oil level was very low which I didn’t record and the oil temperature fault didn’t reoccur after I topped it up. Sorry for not showing that ☹️. I hope this helps
@@kennedysgarage3281 If the Engine has a blown head gasket, where exhaust is leaking into the coolant, which is causing the engine to over heat, could that be causing the oil temperate too high PID? Maybe the leak isn't severe enough yet. So maybe is only occurs on long drives and where you get DPF regeneration occurring same time. Maybe that's why you couldn't get it to come back. But then again the codes did seem to have been reset recently(2.2km), yet the Oil Temp too high PID was still there, that would suggest it occurred recently also. So since you couldn't get it to come back after topping the oil up, maybe that was the culprit in the end.
@@xegro Yes there are an awful lot of variables in the modern vehicle & you are correct it could be a any of the above issues but I recorded the 1st. part 5 days prior to fitting the pressure sensor & pipe . So it went 5 days after oil level topped up with no reoccurring faults but still down on power until sensor & pipe change. Fingers crossed I won’t be seeing that fault code back 🤞
The first few that I started doing caused me nightmares 😬😬😬 But after a few years at them they become quite easy & nice to work on. Familiarity is a great thing 😂😂 Based in Waterford 😉
Peter can you please make a video on how to remove the turbo from this car? I need to remove and replace mine but it seems difficult with the amount of connections behind the dpf. Mazda instructions indicate that the main subframe has to be removed in order to remove the dpf then the turbocharger. Can you suggest an easier way please? Thanks buddy
Don’t even attempt it in situ, drop the engine & gearbox out of the vehicle. This might seem harsh but you will remove it in 3 hrs, then change the turbo in 2 hrs. 3hrs to refit engine and gearbox, all done in a day. It is easier than it sounds & you will thank me for this when done 🤞🙂🙂🙂
@@kennedysgarage3281 I wish I could do that..unfortunately I don't have a ramp or facility to remove the engine and gearbox. I was thinking to undo all bolts for the dpf and set it aside in the engine bay so I can get access to the bolts for the oil and water lines at the back of the engine. Would he great if you can make a video about this :)
@@neeldub53 I have one to do this week & I will make a video but unfortunately I will be removing the engine to do it. It is near impossible in the car & that awkward that it isn’t ever a success, it will more than likely leak oil or water afterwards 😔😔
Unfortunately I do not have a video on that, but the turbo is most likely to get damaged once the pin breaks. If so the complete turbo needs to be replaced. I will send a link for that if needed 😉👍👍👍
Hi just watched your video I had a exhaust pressure pipe blocked cleaned pipe cleaned sensor and cleared light. Drives fine now but turbo doesn’t kick in till 2400rpm just wondered if this was normal or if you think the exhaust pressure sensor needs replacing (does this control when turbo kicks in) I have a Mazda 6 2016 2.2 d skyactiv.
2400rpm is quite late for the turbo to kick in, this does effect turbo control but along with lots of other bits of information from engine sensor’s. You probably need to test the exhaust pressure sensor to see how it is performing (ie. apply 10 psi of pressure and see if you scan tool see the same 10psi.) They suffer from intake manifold & ports blocking bad too 🤔
I have the same car and engine, the car struggles to pull past 3000rpm uphill and also in general. Any ideas what it could be? I cleaned the map sensor as well as replacing the fuel filter. The car is showing no codes and there are no lights on the dash at all.
@@kennedysgarage3281 I thought this may be the case however usually when this happened to me a year ago there was a light on the dash and the car dropped into limp mode. However it is not in limp mode right now it does have power but not the 150bhp it’s supposed to have.
Hi Peter, I live in London I have a Mazda6 diesel 2.2 There is no POWER.!!!🥴😮😟😭 On the dashboard 1. Oil change due. I changed only 1500 miles ago . 2. Check oil pressure. ( No power) 3. Check the oil level. I would like to visit your garage. I'm not a trust dealer named Mazda. Please can you tell me where I can visit your garage. Many thanks.
Hi Ruslan, unfortunately I’m am in Ireland which isn’t impossible but would be quite a distance to travel 😬 The oil strainer in the sump / oil pan is more than likely blocked. I have videos on this for reference. It should cost around £500 to £600
@@kennedysgarage3281 I checked the oil level and it is Perfect. Then I removed the cable from the battery for just 5 minutes then connected and all issues on the dashboard disappeared. Left only Oil change due. Now car driving is ok for the last 50 miles. But I have had another problem for a long time... When I start to drive the engine cold. First gear is fast like 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th. But after 5 minutes when engine temperature normal 1st gear is very slow. 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th is okay. I mean fast. How do you think what's happening. Recently I changed the turbo. Also I deleted DPF.
@@B.Ruslan1978 Mazda have AWS ( Accelerated Warmup System ) it increases the engine rev’s when cold, so I don’t think you have to worry about that. But watch the oil issue it will come back 😬😬
Unfortunately I cannot advise without hearing the noise myself. They do suffer from low oil pressure due to a gauze getting blocked in the sump/ oil pan 🤔
Found it and fitted it cheers. Video came in very handy but what an awkward job! Engine management light now gone and no fault codes. Power back now too and driving as normal. Still have scds light warning for some reason.
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi Peter thanks for the reply. Yes it was a Allen head bolt. Got it loose with a t30 torx as in the video it shows a torx being used which I found odd on a Mazda. Chewed the head up abit so replaced with a 10mm bolt instead. I’m very thankful for this video as when I got the pipe out I tried unblocking by heating the end which is accessible whilst in the car but my pipe was blocked much further down. Would have been successful still on the car. Great video guide! Got the job done! You have helped me replace my turbo and now do this job!
Most electronic components on modern engines can be very much integrated. (ie. If I get steel in my eye, eating, running, driving,working will all be a struggle & only with 1 small problem) Cars can be very much the same. If the engine ECU doesn’t know the correct exhaust pressure at the turbo it cannot not control it correctly. The way the turbo is performing has a direct effect on the amount of air entering the engine. All very interesting and sometimes very complicated, but generally does make when we think about it🤔 Does that make sense??
I am trying to choose what car to buy between a 2014 Mazda 6 2.2d with 140k miles or a 2011 Honda Accord with 180 miles. Both are on sale for 4.5k euro. If I bought the Mazda and changed the injector seals straight away, checked the oil pick up and then changed the oil every 10k km, would it be enough to keep this car right without issues arising. I did have a 2011 version and it went well after injector seal change and oil change every 10k Km after that. Or would I be better of going for the 2011 Honda Accord ? Obviously I also prefer the year of the Mazda but if this Skyactiv model has many issues more than just injector seals and Dpf, then would I be better of staying away from one ?
No, not at all. They only suffer from the same few issues that can be mostly avoided by the correct servicing. Keep changing that oil at 10k and I would say you will be good 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 The Mazda 6 I see for sale looks very under priced for a 2014 at only 4.5k. The current market value of the same car is 9.5k. The seller is also one of the traders who is advertising as private. It would worry me that it could have hidden problems that might not be visible on a pre-purchase inspection.
@@kennedysgarage3281 There will definitely be no warranty and there is no mention of anything about service history on the advert. It just said fresh clean car running well, so it might not be worth the gamble. I actually asked a mechanic a few weeks ago to go check a lovely 2012 Mazda and he told me to save my money and not bother because he had many Mazda diesel engines sitting in his yard. I used to own a 2011 one and loved driving it up until I had an accident that finished it. I'm just trying to decide what car to get next and I am not finding it an easy decision. I don't really do big milleage so was looking at some petrols also but I like the Mazda and Honda diesels.
@@markcorcoran9866 a lot of garages don’t like working on Mazdas, the Hondas can be quite good but garages can also get lost when they do go wrong. The Honda would be a stronger car & the Mazda would need a little TLC over the year’s 🤷🏼♂️
Had the "Scbs" waring light and "engine inspection required" ...my mechanic saod my waste pipe had gone into my low turbo...so new turbo fitted and he says car is fine......2days later i enter the motorway amd less then 2km down the "scbs" & "engine inspection required" back on .....any ideas on what could be the issue as he seems clueless and taking the car back Monday....he already charged me €2450 for the new turbo and waste pipe 😭
@@kennedysgarage3281 Don't know of that's more realible or not i know i drive alot of different makes of vans and hgvs for work and the amount of ad blu issues has put me of buying a car with it.
Just want to give a big shout out to Peter. The engine light had came on on our mazda 6. My wife took it into the dealers and they couldn't find the fault, so they cleared the engine light and sent her on her way. I took the car to work the next day and the same thing happened, engine light on and loss of power. I searched online for a similar issue and this TH-cam video sounded spot on to the problems we were having. My wife took the car back into the dealers the next morning armed with the knowledge for the mechanic to maybe check the same sensor. Lo and behold, that's exactly what the problem was, the error codes matched up. The service department actually thanked my wife for bringing it to their attention as they could have quite easily went down another path. They the parts instore and fixed it by lunchtime and sent her on her way. A week later and the car has been running faultlessly. Thanks so much Peter, I'm sure we would have paid a much larger sum before the dealers discovered the correct problem. Cheers
Hi Paul, well done mate that sounds fantastic. I’m delighted my little video helped & thank you so much for the really good comment 🙏🙏🙏
I’m anticipating having to remove this pipe on mine. Thank you so much for sharing the possibility of doing it without removing the turbos.
Important note: I’ve already just upgraded that sensor (how I discovered the blocked pipe). The short wire that comes with the new sensor isn’t just an extension - if you look closely it actually swaps the two outer wires over. Fortunately I noticed before making the mistake of deciding it would be a neater job without it 😂
That is correct Josh. The polarity does change with the extension piece, well spotted 💪💪💪
And the steel pipe can be quite fiddly, but totally doable . Good luck with it 🤞🤞
Great video and detail, Peter. A quick temporary fix for those steel pipes is an inner handbrake cable wire on a drill to clear the blockage without removal.
Oh, I tried to get it clean for 2-3 hrs & then gave up, I tried everything but not a handbrake cable. I also cut the pipe while the owner was there so can’t try it but will remember it for the next time, nice one Dave. Thank you 🙏
Great idea you done this job ? Is it safe to clear it where will the carbon end up ? Saves removing so much crap I guess I'm attempting this tomorrow
I ended up trying this successfully. My cable was a bit thicker than yours (was all I had). Think I spent about an hour alternating between the drill and compressed air down a thin straw to blow it out as I loosened it a few mm at a time. Then I used the air line to give it a final blast through when I suspected it was clear.
I do confirm that the steel rope does the job ! I poured standard thinners to the pipe to let it soak over night and repeated again with egr cleaner in the morning ( another 2h). Then I bought 3mm steel rope from wicks for £7.40 - cheaper than the handbrake cable. I cut it to the size ( enough to reach the end of the pipe and enough for hand drill chuck. It took me about 5 mins to unblock it ! Saved £600(quoted for replacing the pipe) thank you very much you both guys for sharing your experience!!!! P.s. I was using a big syringe to check for the blockage - resistance means still blocked
Well..got code p2262 and changed exhaust pressure sensor. Still showing code and no turbo boost. Delivered it to Mazda dealer today and they said pipe to exhaust pressure sensor is blocked. They quote 2000 euro to change it. You sir are a genius. Think I'll might try your way😂 (Norway)
Dan, it is fiddly but something you could possibly do yourself with limited tools. If you haven’t done it before I would say to give yourself a day to do it. Just in case you get frustrated and need to take a break 😂😂
The very best of luck with it 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks man. I Will do eventually. Not the kind of work to do outside when it's snowing and -10 degrees. 😂 Mazda wants to take engine out to replace it😂 keep up the good work
@@Dan-po8jf ooooh that would be tough 🥶🥶
I just rebuild a sh01 diesel engine in my own head im a great lad 😏
Watching you in i relise how much i have to learn with these
Your diagnosis is very impressive
And you helped me today
Thank
Fair play to you for doing that 💪💪
And we are all learning everyday, any that thinks that they know it all knows very little 🤔
I’m glad it helped you 🙏🙏👍
I came here from MRniceguy94 who had a video up detailing a carbon clean he had performed on a 2.2. My 2013 went into limp mode after low oil pressure warning when I was driving up an incline. I'd this issue last year too. Had to get oil sump gauze cleaned out and injector seals done. I don't think they cleaned it out. I'm not mechanically knowledgeable so have gone online to check what the issue is. I'm thinking my engine will be covered in built up grime as well. I checked the dipstick, oil level ok but noticed a small golden residue on it as well which probably isn't a good sign. This will be costing me another small fortune no doubt. I bought mazda for 'reliability'! Think I'll get rid of it soon. Scunnered with this problem.
I wonder could you just have an oil dilution fault 🤔🤔
It is just a counter that can be reset
Mazda 6 oil light on & P253F oil dilution, reset procedure
th-cam.com/video/aNO0-cHCCsA/w-d-xo.html
I started my career working on Minis and Hillman Imps and used to moan on about that there was no bloody room to work on them little did I know at the time what the future had in store 😩. Great diagnosis and fix there Peter
It a tough job now Kevin 🤔
Just take a look at the video I just up loaded. Under 4 minutes long but 2 days working for free 🙂
That looked extremely hard Peter, what's an awesome job 👍👍
Hi Evan, it wasn’t too bad. A bit fiddly but quite a stupid place to put bolts in my opinion 🤔
Nice to hear from you ,I hope you are keeping well and busy in the garage 👍
Great video on how to get to that pipe!! Mine 2014 Mazda 4 2.2 alarmed first for SCBS inspection required then at the same time the engine heating light and now I have a engine light inspection, Mazda told me this was needing a carbon clean for 2k I decided to look at it myself, the auto electrician I had says all the alarms are all connected to one fault even tho it throws up 4 including instrument panel he also believes it's this pipe and sensor giving the griff. Fingers crossed it'll sort it!!
Both the pipe gets blocked and the sensor on top of it fail quite often. They are both very easily tested, so he is more than likely on the right track if he’s not happy with the results he got. Fingers crossed Dean 🤞
@@deanbramley2130 I got it in the Main dealer, if my memory serve’s me correctly I believe it was around €80
@@kennedysgarage3281 cheers 👍
Hi pal nice one ..
Had a friend yesterday he failed on nct visual rear discs going to do friday...then he explains this lag sometime like boost stops then comes bk in ...so first time under the bonnet had a root around found blocked map ...partly blocked dpf pipes but not really bad ...so the car is s 9 out of 10 from lets say 5 ...
He happy ....but i can feel a little room still ...knew nothing about this pipe ...i wonder now is mine that pipe also ....
Try friday ....yeah they are a fiddly bas to do anything
This exhaust pressure sensor & pipe do dictate boost pressure. The sensor fails very often and there is a revised one available for it now. I find the best way to clear them if blocked is with heat and compressed air. It could save a lot of time for you 🤞🤞🤞
lovely video, great tips! I have a 2014 mazda 3 with this 2.2 skyactiv diesel and its not realy smooth in low rpm/ low speeds , especially when cold . and its at least 30 hp short on power (120 when stock instead of 150 , 187 after tuning but should be 210-230) no fault codes whatsoever though. Mazda told me they need to clean the valves but I dont believe it will make such a big difference in terms of power, now i have some ideas what to check , thanks!
Hi Sigour, sorry for the delayed response. I only seeing the comment now 😞
The intake manifold ports can get very blocked, from around 30mm down to around 5 or 10mm. This is a big issue with this engine & I would be worth pulling of the manifold just for a look, it isn’t too hard a job around 2 hrs. Only if you haven’t found anything by now 🤞👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 no problem mate! I had the intake, turbo and EGR removed and cleaned, also the valves ofcourse (manually cleaned not with H2O pulses bullshit). I had the DPF filter removed and cleaned and performs complete service (oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air and cabin filter, manual transmission fluid will be done next week). but still a very hesitant, rough, powerless drive at low speeds, still drinking oil, still no power whatsoever above 4000 rpm. this week new airflow sensor should arrive, also mazda garage will reset ECU into learning the injectors how to run again. hope anything helps hahaha. When the car is warm its pretty okay, only no power above 4000rpm,there is a 1-3 second delay on any power I ask, and flooring it in , say 3th gear I feel a slightly inconsistant power delivery thoughout the rpm. Pulls very hard though, had it run 225kmph in germany couple weeks ago.
@@sigourauwerx6988 exhaust camshaft wear also 🤔
th-cam.com/video/7fpegs2QF54/w-d-xo.html
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks for another tip! How did this car behave with the bad camshaft? I cant understand how the camshaft could be bad , But I dont say its impossible. Car did mostly highway miles and has complete official mazda service history. I put in another airflow sensor and had the injactors go through a relearn procedure, car is more smooth now. I will follow up on the oil level now (yesterday It was below minimum and I topped it up to maximum about 600 miles ago, this is scary stuff) 😥. doesnt leak or smoke though 😏. My garage said next guess is oil scraper rings or valve seals. Shoild have kept my previous mazda 3 with the 1.6 MZ-CD PSA engine. it ran 200.000 miles with zero problems 🤣
Another good fix peter 👍
Hi Peter,
I have the same problem on my mazda, wastegate not opening and P2263 fault code, exhaust pipe blocked
How you removed the vvt solenoid? It's only one screw right?
Many thanks
Great to see such indepth knowledge sharing on these motors, I ran one from 2019 to March of this year, a 2016 car with 77k on purchase and 117k when gone. I didn't have a minute's trouble with it but I was changing the oil every 10k or annually, whichever came sooner, and it was doing regens every 300km or so (obviously it wasn't doing much mileage at all during the pandemic).
Was I just lucky or were more frequent oil changes helping things? Ended up buying a Mazda 3 with the Skyactiv-X engine anyhow. Be interested to hear your thoughts on these.
Hi Benny, most of the problems with these start to arise after 120,000kms.
Yours would probably have driven away fine until 130 or 140 due to the comprehensive service schedule. But it is inevitable that the intake manifold, exhaust camshaft & sensor fail. Injector washers would be replaced when doing the camshaft.
The newer engine design doesn’t have these problems 💪💪💪
Great video man!!👏🏽👏🏽 Thank you 🙏🏽
I’m glad you liked it Alei 😉😉 & thank you for watching it 🙏👍
Proper fix, well done👍
We have a 2013 GT diesel and have no boost until 2500rpm and then the turbo kicks in hard, has been serviced but isn’t throwing any codes at all.
It is back to old fashioned testing so. Check the turbo pressure pipe just to be sure. It has 2 turbos and the change over flap can come loose and fall off. Pull out the battery & remove the bolted on intake pipe running over the top of the bell housing. That is worth a look too 🤔
Finally someone that knows mazda shit👍
All we can do is try 😬😬😉
Great info. Thanks
You are welcome mate 🙏🙏
Good job
Watch some of my later mazda videos on how to clear this pipe with heat without removing it 😉
Cheers mate 🙏🙏
Hey Peter from cork there
Just purchased a mazda 6 private sale the other the 2.2 skyactive 2015. And the car hesitates to go over 3000rpm
The power is there but I think it's limited. Any way you could help much appreciated!
Hi Brendan, the first thing you should check is the map sensor (boost pressure sensor) it is very easy to get at just at the timing chain side of the intake manifold under the wiring loom. It is held in with an 8mm bolt. Remove it and see if it is blocked up with carbon. If so just clean it with a small screwdriver or pin 📌
Let me know how you go 🤔👍👍
❤ All that you do ...
That didn't look very accessible, great video Peter
I know, there must be an easier way but I sure as heck couldn’t find it ☹️
Cheers Matt 👍
Just come across your channel amazing work you do.
I have a Mazda 6 2.2 185 (2009) I have a p2565 that won’t go away. Sometimes car pulls , sometimes turbo cuts out Spent hundreds on diagnostics to no avail . Any ideas?
P2565 is a turbo position sensor fault. This fault can be caused by the turbo position sensor on the turbo vacuum canister 🤔
If that test’s good you would then need to check the variable veins on the turbo to see if they are free & not sticking. After that look at the turbo control solenoid, that is the best advice I can offer without seeing the car 🤞🤞
Great work, One of the best diagnostic person on you tube, 👏 👍
i wish you were local to me,
1 question i were getting codes for Exhaust pressure sensor p0472/p0471 i have changed the sensor and codes disappeared how ever i noticed the live data reading for this sensor are around 95-100 on idle, but it goes above the red line when car goes around 2k RPM,
Also i have took the sensor out of the pipe that you replaced in this video and checked live reading it was showing 96 even when sensor was just hanging around and not connected in the pipe,
Is the reading 96 fixed number set by manufacturer on idle 🤔?
Im not losing any power though,
Also is this part connected somewhere onto exhaust ?
Im having some airflow problem that might be related to this pipe been blocked?
Thanks 😊
Is the exhaust pressure sensor you speak about the Differential pressure sensor ( 2 pipes) ??? If so that should read 0 mbar with engine off & no more than 20 mbar at idle .
But depending on the scan tool you are using ( they can all do different things) 100 kpa is atmospheric pressure, which both of the sensors are giving you 🤔🤔
Try giving the 2 sensors pressure and verify
ie. 15psi applied manually should be 200kpa if it is measuring the atmospheric pressure first 🤔
Maybe this might help 🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 exhaust pressure sensor 1 which is same in this video you changed 1 tube connected,
On i have basic Autel AP200 diy tool for mazda reading range is between 0-150 Kpa but i get very close to 100 say 96 97kpa when idle around 800rpm, and goes way above the range limit over 200kpa when Cruising at around 2k rpm,
@@nmalik88 Those pressures sound ok. But I’d like to know what the pressure reads key on engine off??? If you can
@@kennedysgarage3281 i'll check that tomorrow with KOEO and will let you know tomorrow thanks for your reply :)
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi just checked the reading is almost same when KOEO at 100kpa AND KOER at 105kpa
Supplied readings are
Exhaust pressure sensor Bank 1
Is this the right name of the sensor you changed in this video? In case im reading wrong sensor?
Hey Kennedy,
Just came across the real mechanic who knows his stuff and knows about Mazda.
I need your help, My car is 2.2 2014 Mazda 6 with 115K miles. I recently bought the car and all of a sudden EML comes up saying P2262 code.
I changed the exhaust pressure sensor, but the light is still coming on, after diagnostic in garage, they mentioned everything is fine, but don't know the excat reason of fault. They mentioned the back pressure is coming to be very high. Acc to me car is running fine, no reduced fuel economy, not lagging.
Still not sure what's the case, Can you please shed some light on this issue. :)
Hi I could have messaged you on Instagram also 🤔🤔
I would say this pipe is blocked, did you get to check it ??
P0102:00-AF - Mass Or Volume Air Flow Sensor A Circuit Low, P0030:00-AF - HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1), P0079:00-AF - Exhaust Valve Control Circuit Low (Bank 1), P06DB:00-AF - Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Low, P0383:00-AF - Glow Plug Control Module 1 Control Circuit Low, my cars on limp mode, have a engine warning light, dsc light and scbs light; i changed that sensor to the new one, didnt change the pipe, do you know what it could be?
I have a video on P0102 coming out this weekend. But resolve that first and go from there. It could be a fuse or power feed but in my case it was the airflow meter had failed 🤞🤞
thank you !
👍🎖️🏆🥇
🙏🙏🙏
Unfortunately in the states we didn’t get those Mazdas with diesel engines 😢
Lots of diesel Mazda owners might call that fortunate rather than unfortunate 😂😂😂
@@kennedysgarage3281 are those really that bad? Personally I’d prefer a diesel for the torque and longevity of the engine, but with all that emissions crap I guess they’re not as reliable as I thought
@@ReviewingTech101 actually with the correct maintenance, preventative or needed they are quite good. It just seems that tech’s over here don’t want to touch them 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Hi Peter, Based North of Ireland here and at a loss with my CX-5 2.2 skyactive. Apparently my DPF is too blocked to even do a forced regen (It's been on 4 computers). Low on power too at the moment (engine inspection light) and red DPF inspection triangle is on. I'm told my options are to either get the DPF mapped out, get a new one (couldn't afford this) or get it removed and cleaned but it will just clog up again I'm told. Do I slog it to Waterford or do you suggest any of the above? Thanks.
Hi, the DPF’s on these don’t give much bother but if there are any engine based faults causing more smoke in the exhaust system, then the Dpf cannot deal with that.
So yes, the Dpf will only block again if you don’t repair the cause.
Google Kennedysgarage.ie and send me some videos of what is happening on WhatsApp 😉👍👍👍
Hi Peter, I really enjoy how detailed and informative your videos are. If I was based in the UK I would definitely pay you a visit. Anyway, I've been searching without success for the 2014 Mazda 6 (Atenza) Diesel Workshop manual. All I can see are the petrol version ones. Do you have any leads? Thanks.
I’m sorry but this is something that I wouldn’t be familiar with ☹️
Did you try eBay ??
@@kennedysgarage3281 I did. They had for the petrol version, not diesel. Thanks.
@@kevgits I’ll keep an eye out for one 👍
He's in Ireland dude,,🇮🇪💙💛
I had to watch this 1 twice as lost me a some point as to how you found the fault. Got there in end however you streets ahead of me on this one. I'd have ended up down a rabbit hole for sure
The fault code really gave no direction, after I topped up the oil by 1.5 to 2 ltrs the oil temp fault didn’t return & basically the rest was just visual. I am also a small fish in a big pond but I for 1 find a quick search on TH-cam can often give me direction when lost & hopefully my videos might do the same for others 🙏👍
Hi,
My issue is P2262, I already cleaned the hole intake system and replaced map sensor and dpf sensor. The exhaust pressure sensor is already the new one since about 7 months.
Turbo looks good and everything is clean now.
The Car also tells me DPF Fault (sry im from Germany and trying to find solution)
Nothing of that helped to solve the issue.
Do you have a guess what i should check next ?
Thank you so much!
Hi all the way from Ireland, P2262 is boost pressure not detected. Using a scan tool look at exhaust pressure sensor A reading just to verify if the pipe to it is clear. After that remove the battery, battery tray and and air outlet pipe from the turbo. It is held in place with 4 12mm nuts. Just to check the lower down turbo and adjoining changeover flap. Let me know what you find 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hi, thank you for the quick reply, I already checked the flap in the small turbo and everything was fine. The next days I will check the pipe and let you know.
Thank you 👍🏼👍🏼
@@creed4speed475 it also could be as simple as an air intake pipe off or split. Good luck with it 🤞🤞
Hi did you fixed? What was the problem?
Brilliant
Thank you Khan 🙏🙏
I’ve a trade MK3 2.2d 150 auto 2013. Over fueling 43 mpg at 60 mph over 4 hours. Using almost twice fuel would normally this trip modern diesel . Did get diesel particulate message an hour before home. Turned maz6 off and on and went . Got home. Cleared codes scanner DTC cannot remember. . Never seen Mazda message on car again but only driven 25 miles a time and still over fueling. I’m thinking as drives nicely this is plain old soot filter dpf full, or other. Any help greatly received. Best regards
You really need to start with a fault code , purely to see what the car isn’t happy with.
You could measure the Dpf back pressure with a manual gauge, but post your codes and go from there 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks loads, good pointer, I'll drive to get codes, work from there
I've got what seems like a similar issue and could really use some help. Ill describe it
Just had a service done, soon after was driving one day and the car hesitated around 2.5k rpm with a very strange rattling noise, wouldnt push past 2.5k.
Pulled over, turned the car off and restarted. Started driving and could hear a fairly throaty thrum accompanies by a turbo howl/whine.
Cars acceleration was super sluggish now, but when it reached 2.5k rpm it behaves normally and starts accelerating quickly like normal.
Any thoughts of what it could be?
From what you say, it sounds like the changeover flap for both turbos has fallen off. It is quite common failure item & a loss of power under 2500 are the symptoms.
Remove the air box, battery and then the air outlet pipe from the turbo. Then look in the hole at the flap & small turbo.
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks I'll take a look. Does this mean the whole turbo needs replacing?
@@adamY2K it depends on whether the holding pipe went into the intake turbine and damaged it. But you will be able to see this once disassembled 😉👍👍
Nice video!
However I didn't quite understand why there was an oil temperature too high pid?
What did that have to do with that sensor?
The fault code had nothing to do with the pressure sensor or pipe being blocked. But the car was down on power & that was what I was trying to fix. I just started with a code scan for direction, but my oil level was very low which I didn’t record and the oil temperature fault didn’t reoccur after I topped it up. Sorry for not showing that ☹️. I hope this helps
@@kennedysgarage3281 If the Engine has a blown head gasket, where exhaust is leaking into the coolant, which is causing the engine to over heat, could that be causing the oil temperate too high PID?
Maybe the leak isn't severe enough yet.
So maybe is only occurs on long drives and where you get DPF regeneration occurring same time.
Maybe that's why you couldn't get it to come back.
But then again the codes did seem to have been reset recently(2.2km), yet the Oil Temp too high PID was still there, that would suggest it occurred recently also.
So since you couldn't get it to come back after topping the oil up, maybe that was the culprit in the end.
@@xegro Yes there are an awful lot of variables in the modern vehicle & you are correct it could be a any of the above issues but I recorded the 1st. part 5 days prior to fitting the pressure sensor & pipe . So it went 5 days after oil level topped up with no reoccurring faults but still down on power until sensor & pipe change. Fingers crossed I won’t be seeing that fault code back 🤞
Have you ever had a mazda 6 in that you werent able to fix and or diagnose properly or do you manage to fault find eventually? Where ru based?
The first few that I started doing caused me nightmares 😬😬😬
But after a few years at them they become quite easy & nice to work on. Familiarity is a great thing 😂😂
Based in Waterford 😉
Where did you get that pipe ? Mazda dealer ? Thanks
Peter can you please make a video on how to remove the turbo from this car? I need to remove and replace mine but it seems difficult with the amount of connections behind the dpf. Mazda instructions indicate that the main subframe has to be removed in order to remove the dpf then the turbocharger. Can you suggest an easier way please? Thanks buddy
Don’t even attempt it in situ, drop the engine & gearbox out of the vehicle. This might seem harsh but you will remove it in 3 hrs, then change the turbo in 2 hrs. 3hrs to refit engine and gearbox, all done in a day.
It is easier than it sounds & you will thank me for this when done 🤞🙂🙂🙂
@@kennedysgarage3281 I wish I could do that..unfortunately I don't have a ramp or facility to remove the engine and gearbox. I was thinking to undo all bolts for the dpf and set it aside in the engine bay so I can get access to the bolts for the oil and water lines at the back of the engine. Would he great if you can make a video about this :)
@@neeldub53 I have one to do this week & I will make a video but unfortunately I will be removing the engine to do it.
It is near impossible in the car & that awkward that it isn’t ever a success, it will more than likely leak oil or water afterwards 😔😔
@@kennedysgarage3281 i look forward to the video :)
hi, is there a video or advice/suggestions on the turbo bypass valve that falls apart? does turbo have to come out? many thanks
Unfortunately I do not have a video on that, but the turbo is most likely to get damaged once the pin breaks. If so the complete turbo needs to be replaced. I will send a link for that if needed 😉👍👍👍
th-cam.com/video/XJZ3AC2bAtc/w-d-xo.html
Hi just watched your video I had a exhaust pressure pipe blocked cleaned pipe cleaned sensor and cleared light. Drives fine now but turbo doesn’t kick in till 2400rpm just wondered if this was normal or if you think the exhaust pressure sensor needs replacing (does this control when turbo kicks in) I have a Mazda 6 2016 2.2 d skyactiv.
2400rpm is quite late for the turbo to kick in, this does effect turbo control but along with lots of other bits of information from engine sensor’s. You probably need to test the exhaust pressure sensor to see how it is performing (ie. apply 10 psi of pressure and see if you scan tool see the same 10psi.) They suffer from intake manifold & ports blocking bad too 🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 ok thanks for the info I suspect the sensor will be at fault but I’ll change it anyway for the updated one and try it after that
@@ryanphillips3712 let us know mate I'm.reppacimg mine to this week and I'll be checking those pipes did u have to remove the metal 1?
I have the same car and engine, the car struggles to pull past 3000rpm uphill and also in general. Any ideas what it could be? I cleaned the map sensor as well as replacing the fuel filter. The car is showing no codes and there are no lights on the dash at all.
You could have a blocked Dpf ??
@@kennedysgarage3281 I thought this may be the case however usually when this happened to me a year ago there was a light on the dash and the car dropped into limp mode. However it is not in limp mode right now it does have power but not the 150bhp it’s supposed to have.
Hi Peter,
I live in London I have a Mazda6 diesel 2.2 There is no POWER.!!!🥴😮😟😭
On the dashboard
1. Oil change due.
I changed only 1500 miles ago .
2. Check oil pressure. ( No power)
3. Check the oil level.
I would like to visit your garage.
I'm not a trust dealer named Mazda.
Please can you tell me where I can visit your garage.
Many thanks.
Hi Ruslan, unfortunately I’m am in Ireland which isn’t impossible but would be quite a distance to travel 😬
The oil strainer in the sump / oil pan is more than likely blocked. I have videos on this for reference. It should cost around £500 to £600
@@kennedysgarage3281
I checked the oil level and it is Perfect. Then I removed the cable from the battery for just 5 minutes then connected and all issues on the dashboard disappeared. Left only Oil change due. Now car driving is ok for the last 50 miles. But I have had another problem for a long time...
When I start to drive the engine cold. First gear is fast like 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th. But after 5 minutes when engine temperature normal 1st gear is very slow. 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th is okay. I mean fast. How do you think what's happening. Recently I changed the turbo. Also I deleted DPF.
@@B.Ruslan1978 Mazda have AWS ( Accelerated Warmup System ) it increases the engine rev’s when cold, so I don’t think you have to worry about that. But watch the oil issue it will come back 😬😬
th-cam.com/video/EIPGqQwBJtU/w-d-xo.html
This might help oil change message 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281
Ok. Peter
Many thanks.👍👍👍
Is the noise for the engine alright because this is what my Mazda 6 sounds like?
Unfortunately I cannot advise without hearing the noise myself. They do suffer from low oil pressure due to a gauze getting blocked in the sump/ oil pan 🤔
Do you have the part number for the sensor? Have this same problem with mine.
The part number is SHY6-18-W00 exhaust pressure sensor 😉👍👍
Found it and fitted it cheers. Video came in very handy but what an awkward job! Engine management light now gone and no fault codes. Power back now too and driving as normal. Still have scds light warning for some reason.
Please can you tell me what size torx that is!
@@Davidsmith-zw3kj I’m not aware of any Torx needed. Would it be the 5mm allen key holding on the oil control solenoid??
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi Peter thanks for the reply. Yes it was a Allen head bolt. Got it loose with a t30 torx as in the video it shows a torx being used which I found odd on a Mazda. Chewed the head up abit so replaced with a 10mm bolt instead. I’m very thankful for this video as when I got the pipe out I tried unblocking by heating the end which is accessible whilst in the car but my pipe was blocked much further down. Would have been successful still on the car. Great video guide! Got the job done! You have helped me replace my turbo and now do this job!
Hi mate why does a restricted pressure sensor pipes or faulty pressure sensor effect maf sensor readings
Most electronic components on modern engines can be very much integrated. (ie. If I get steel in my eye, eating, running, driving,working will all be a struggle & only with 1 small problem)
Cars can be very much the same. If the engine ECU doesn’t know the correct exhaust pressure at the turbo it cannot not control it correctly. The way the turbo is performing has a direct effect on the amount of air entering the engine. All very interesting and sometimes very complicated, but generally does make when we think about it🤔
Does that make sense??
I am trying to choose what car to buy between a 2014 Mazda 6 2.2d with 140k miles or a 2011 Honda Accord with 180 miles. Both are on sale for 4.5k euro.
If I bought the Mazda and changed the injector seals straight away, checked the oil pick up and then changed the oil every 10k km, would it be enough to keep this car right without issues arising. I did have a 2011 version and it went well after injector seal change and oil change every 10k Km after that.
Or would I be better of going for the 2011 Honda Accord ? Obviously I also prefer the year of the Mazda but if this Skyactiv model has many issues more than just injector seals and Dpf, then would I be better of staying away from one ?
No, not at all. They only suffer from the same few issues that can be mostly avoided by the correct servicing. Keep changing that oil at 10k and I would say you will be good 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 The Mazda 6 I see for sale looks very under priced for a 2014 at only 4.5k. The current market value of the same car is 9.5k. The seller is also one of the traders who is advertising as private. It would worry me that it could have hidden problems that might not be visible on a pre-purchase inspection.
@@markcorcoran9866 ask about warranty 🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 There will definitely be no warranty and there is no mention of anything about service history on the advert. It just said fresh clean car running well, so it might not be worth the gamble.
I actually asked a mechanic a few weeks ago to go check a lovely 2012 Mazda and he told me to save my money and not bother because he had many Mazda diesel engines sitting in his yard. I used to own a 2011 one and loved driving it up until I had an accident that finished it. I'm just trying to decide what car to get next and I am not finding it an easy decision. I don't really do big milleage so was looking at some petrols also but I like the Mazda and Honda diesels.
@@markcorcoran9866 a lot of garages don’t like working on Mazdas, the Hondas can be quite good but garages can also get lost when they do go wrong. The Honda would be a stronger car & the Mazda would need a little TLC over the year’s 🤷🏼♂️
Had the "Scbs" waring light and "engine inspection required" ...my mechanic saod my waste pipe had gone into my low turbo...so new turbo fitted and he says car is fine......2days later i enter the motorway amd less then 2km down the "scbs" & "engine inspection required" back on .....any ideas on what could be the issue as he seems clueless and taking the car back Monday....he already charged me €2450 for the new turbo and waste pipe 😭
Get engine management fault code and let me know what they are, before going back. Any OBD code reader will do😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 so 1 fault.... P0299?
Google showing...
Leaking or damaged charge piping.
Failed diverter valve.
Failed boost pressure regulation valve.
Failed turbocharger or supercharger.
Faulty boost pressure sensor.
Faulty wastegate/wastegate actuator.
@@kennedysgarage3281 would you think its because he changed the twin turbo and waste pipe
@@glfery the diverter valve can be a very common problem 🤔
th-cam.com/video/yJQ2EuorvWA/w-d-xo.html
Do these engine's use shitty ad blue
No Ryan, these Skyactive engines don’t use Adblu at all. The just run large quantities of EGR to reduce the Nox content 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 Don't know of that's more realible or not i know i drive alot of different makes of vans and hgvs for work and the amount of ad blu issues has put me of buying a car with it.