Had my 2.2 10 years from new, 69k on the clock. Had to have new injectors at 49k, managed 66mpg on a 220 mile run at 70mph afterwards, but its now down to 55mph. Never managed to get 10k out of an oil change due to rising oil levels. Just done 1800 miles Berkshire to Scourie in Scotland, it certainly got a work out on that run, 12 hours at 70 mph and lots of gar work in between on the Scottting and Northumbrian hills. Never failed to give the torque when required, but did experience Code P243C ( frequent regen tries), which I put down to the gear work, so the Regen was forever being interupted by changing gear or stopping at 'passing places' on the narrow 'A' roads in the Highlands. During our stay in Inverness, I did add some water and soap solution down the DPF DP sensor pipes to prove they were clear and soften and carbon. The Exh sensor No.1 has had the treatment prior to the holiday as it has a capiliary pipe and banjo bolt which clogs up, so worth prooving clear. Could anybody tell me the difference between the old sensor and new one( part No. Colour of sensor etc. ) If it is removed and engine started, you can easilly tell if its blocked. A simple way to keep the inlet manifold clean would be a nozzle fitted just after the EGR connected to a dosing pot similar to your creen washer and pump, so when at a steady speed and everything is warmed up, give it a squirt of atomised water and a chemical such as washing up liquid. This would wash carbon off, as long the button is not pressed to long each time. I have used this method of cleaning large turbo, air sides in service. Hot water and compressed air.
I own mine since 2021 and never missed a beat. Very pleased of this engine and I'm confident that with frequent maintenance it will last for a very long time. I asked my misses about lubrication, you were so right 😂
I recently sold a Mazda 3 2.2 with 163k miles on it. Lovely car and I had the intake manifold Walnut blast cleaned (thanks to this channel) shortly prior to sale. Unfortunately the vacuum pump also started to fail in those last few months so I had to take some money off for the new buyer. I wouldn't put anyone off buying one, but you need to be aware of what you're getting into and warnings to look for.
I now follow this youtuber as the information provided is extremely useful for users of these engines! My experience is that they are great engines, just need a little extra engine TLC (i bought a highly maintained one at 91k (2016), exhaust can at minimal wear, on the new type pressure sensor, no chain tap, had to replace to upgraded injector seals (worn but not failed), oil change set to about 6 month change, only had 1 fault when bought (high intake manifold pressure (carbon build up the cause), coolant good, minor carbon build up in the intake, overall an amazing condition engine. I use an Autel MK808BT for diag. Only downside for this car so far for me is the wheels ( i need to get them refurbed and red paint ones get minor lacquer peel.) my next jobs: oil change, intake clean, gear box oil change, drive belt change, air/fuel/cabin filter change. I changed from an audi BRE 2l TDI, also brill car, lasted 7 years with me (182k, original engine, box, clutch, turbo, etc), only problems i saw with this engine are that the EGR causes DPF blocks (regen and SW code EGR to low to fix), body degrade after 16years (sills). As he says, keep proper maintenance and TLC, these engines go on for many miles and years. Extra TLC is also recommended (people forget gearbox oil changes, it also needs to be done every few years in my experience.)
A few months ago my Mazda CX-5 2.2 D with 139k had a few issues, but after leaving it with MrNiceGuy, changing the camshaft and vacumm pump, replacing the sensor (with all mazda's original parts) and fully decarboned, I can say that since the momemt I pick it up (11 days ago) it has been 'super'. The cars response when I accelarate is immediate, and the 2.2 D engine is very smooth. Happy that the car is back on the road and my family as well. 👍🏼👍🏼😊😊
@@MrNiceGuy94I was told by Mazda Australia not to run the specified 5W 30W but run a higher viscosity oil, I was told to run Castrol Magnatec 10W 40W apparently it does address wear issues on the camshaft and washer tolerance issues on some of the earliest diesel engines fitted to the CX models and some of the Mazda 6 models. I've done 300000 kilometres no problemo except for the thermostat, they are difficult to change because of their position. No problem with camshaft
Thanks for such a honest video. I have both, cx-5 2.2 diesel (130k kms), and a civic type S 2.2 diesel (280k kms) Definetly, the civic hasn't asked for much (in terms of corrective maintenance) compared to the mazda during its lifetime. Being a mechanic myself, I admit the mazda needs more care, but also is a nicer car. Thanks for the great content!
Never service your car what the manufacturers recommend, I do service my car 3 times a year, every third service I do a full service Inclouding fuel filter ,,good advice there ,honest advice there
Just about to buy a 2016/2017 Mazda 6, apart from the obvious what should I check for and how would I know if the vacuum pump is on its way out..seems to be a common fault. I have seen to check the mass flow sensor to see what the intake manifold is looking like
Hi. I did fix several Mazda skyactives. Now I have one which comes as non runner. I changed oil pump plastic filter, clean all carbon from manifold, scraped and hoovered from cylinder , head ,clean small pipe from back of cylinder head and ending with sensor, changed 2 and 3 injectors heavily clogged in head. Car run but very heavy white smoke. Do you have Idea what can be wrong? Thanks
Hi Mr.NIce guy i have a question i have a 2.2D Mazda 3 and when i start my car in morning (i live in Norway by the way) the car doesnt do a cold a start sometimes but it does a normal start! Im wondering if this is normal on this engine because the whole summer i had cold starts in the morning but now that is starting to get cold it skipps cold starts in morning. Any idea whats going on?
Hi so true maintenance is most important Great teacher explains very will thanks I can’t find the clip on how to tighten the injectors correctly on 2.2 can you help me please
I have just bought CX5 with 2.2 Skyactiv-D 175hp 2015 with 155.000km on it. Car runs great and I want to remove the DPF and EGR (I can do it in my country without a problem). Should I do carbon cleaning too or not necessary unless I get an error or issues? Also, does removing the EGR and DPF help the car clean itself and prevent future build-up?
It's every manufacturer has problems with diesel engines. But the way to go it petrol these skyactiv petrol engines are amazing high compression and brilliant with high octane fuel and remap, great mpg too
@@MB-iw6guDiesel engines do last longer provided you service them on the correct intervals. EGR valve problems are easily overcome with a catch can or EGR blank plate
I bought a brand new 2.2 skyactiv diesel 150 bhp, at 4000 miles I got a warning message that dpf was full, it was under warranty obviously, so it went to mazda and they changed the sensor on the exhaust, gave me the car back, after 2 weeks I got the same message again, so it went back and had all it's injectors changed, to be honest I was only doing 5000 miles in a year, but every week the car would do 36 miles in one go on the motorway so it was getting a blast every week, anyway for the next 3 years I didn't have any issues, only the old increase in the oil getting up to the X mark, I now drive a 2.0 ltr skyactiv X which is an amazing engine, that works like a diesel but it's petrol
Hey i have a question, i have a skyactive 2.2 i had some dpf flashing light so i took the dpf for ultrasonic cleaning, replaced the injector washer, cleand the injector, replaced the dpf sensor and the turbo sensor… in aprox 250 km i hand 3 regens and in the end i had the dpf flashing light… oil whas changed every 6000km…. I really need some help…
This engine is indeed not as reliable as vw diesel or bmw engine. I had m6 2013, till 200t km was lovely, but then came the avalanche of problems. Head gasket, turbo because of faulty rivet. After this 20t km was fine and since the head gasket the oil presure and temperature checked frequently, everything fine, but all of sudden piston rod knocking 800km away from home. How can it happen? Very disapointed and have to sell it for bargain.
I have also 1.5 Diesel Mazda 3. The main problem about these cars are injectors. They were changed 2 times ( First one at 20k km and second one at 35k..unbelievable!!! ) and injectors are not cheap! So I am also doing 6000 km oil change intervals even manual says 10k. Advise you to use injector cleaners periodically.
@ absolutely you are correct I know this checked the forums I’m using injector cleaners 👌🏽 my car is about 83,000 km now didn’t faced with injector problem yet I bought it about 65.000km, asked before owner he was also no faced with that problem
It is the manufacturers fault for not including it in the maintenance I think. Just like it is the manufacturers fault if changing oil at their recommended intervals is not enough to keep the engine they made happy. I'm not bashing Mazda, I love my cx-5 and I'm going to have those washers changed but if they inevitably need to be changed at some point, the service instructions should say so.
Mazda should have recalled the affected cars and replace the camshafts and injector washers. But they won't do it because of the cost. They only replace vacuum pump because it is a safety feature and could get sued. If you mess up, fix it.... Boohoo for mazda for that And boohoo for the owner of this car. Camshaft is not that expensive, should have changed it and then sell. Instead of selling a lemon now.
I think the main problem is the people who buy these cars don't know anything about cars. They should maintain, but middle class people just drive them to the ground. That said I think diesel is more trouble than its worth, I mean look at the complexity compared to a simple petrol engine. Smelly and noisy.
Mazda and diesel aren't really a good mix imo. They all seem to give trouble. But, petrol engines theyre solid. Haven't heard of any to give much bother in my area
@Peter-f4o4z my dads 2.2 skyactiv was riddled with problems as long as he owned the thing. Turbo at 80k km, leak back pipe cracked near 110k km, head gasket decided to let go around 116k km. Mazda quoted 10,000 euros for a new engine as the head gaskets are known to be anything but a success once done. We put a bottle of steel seal into it which lasted just over a year. That brought it to 137k km. Where it started to leak again. So it got a second bottle which saw it out. At 143k km the injector seals failed catastrophically and dumped 2 or 3 liters of raw diesel into the sump. We got rid of it a week later The likes of this btw are not unique to our 2.2 diesel mazda. It is known to be a highly problematic engine. Their 2 liter diesel they made with ford loved to dump diesel in the sump aswell, although it's troubles aren't as extravagant as the 2.2. One of my teachers in school had a diesel mazda van that loved to overheat. Don't know what that things problem was but I do know he got rid of that thing. It wasn't old at the time either. Turn that whole lot around and look at their petrol engines. I know a lot of people who have petrol mazdas and none of them have given an ounce of trouble by comparison to the diesels. So no, mazda diesels are not reliable. I spent enough time and effort keeping 1 of the cunts going......
Rubbish. Diesel cars need to be serviced on time . The better you look after the car the more reliable it will be simple. Owners neglecting serving with obviously have problems.
@MdnDalle I agree, but good maintenance won't keep a notoriously bad engine from blowing up. My dads one was always serviced on time and yet it blew. I have a honda 1.6 diesel myself and do what it calls for. No issues with it. Just a fact of life, not all engines are made equal. I have a dam 1999 honda accord with a 1.8 petrol engine in it. That thing racked up just under double the mileage of the diesel mazda and to this day, it hasn't been opened once, nor has it given even a quarter of the trouble the mazda gave. So having a diesel doesn't automatically make your car more reliable. Theyre far more complex to begin with but thats mainly emmissions driven. I had a 1.2 petrol corsa at one point aswell which broke my heart. Again, there's another instance of fuel type dont matter for reliability. Actually that corsa had more mileage on it than the mazda before I got rid of it. So again, first hand, I saw how fuel type doesn't matter in terms of engine longevity. It comes down to how that engine is built, how it's designed, what its made from, and and only then it gets into the maintenance side of things. Well designed engine+ good maintenance= long life vehicle. Well designed engine+ poor maintenance= meh lifespan vehicle. Poorly designed engine+ good maintenance= meh lifespan vehicle. Poorly designed engine+ poor maintenance= big bang
@@alexhickey5633I’m not sure about this . I know Diesels need to be maintained religiously because of the carbon from the fuel hence more regular maintenance than a petrol engine. I actually prefer a diesel over a petrol engine any day. Better fuel efficiency. That’s my take .
The 2.2d is not reliable. My 2015 mazda 6 was decarbed by a dealship 4yrs ago. Then the vacuum pump failed and cam shaft was also changed. Then the respiratory on the air con system failed behind the dashboard. Decarb required again this month and i noticed signs the seals are leaking on the fuel injectors not reported by the dealership on dynostic check . Ive been changing the oil every 6k miles instead of the 12.5k miles recommended and filling with vpower fuel. This has made no difference to the longevity of the engine!! I am not happy with this car. When it not being repeared its a great car but that is never in a full year after 5yrs old.i forgot the alloy where changed under warranty, but the replacement have also corroded after warrenty. The paint is so thin ,you have chipped paint all over the car.
My dad had one of these. We got over the thin paint fairly quickly so that was grand. But the 1 thing he'd change about that car was the engine. It was relatively troublefree til it got to 100k km. Turbo was the first thing to go but mazda put a new one into it under warrenty. So that was grand anyway, drove it on for another year or 2 after that until the head gasket popped. At the time we were contemplating doing the head gasket but lots of people have said they aren't a success. So, back to mazda to see what their fix was. A new engine for 10,000 euros. And add on around 3000 for labour. So 13,000 to do the engine. And no way were we putting that much money into a car worth around that much. So, into the motor factors for a bottle of that head gasket in a bottle stuff. That worked for just over a year with no trouble. The level started to go down a little again so we lobbed in a 2nd bottle. That saw the car out of our ownership. For a finish the injector seals went and it was filling the sump with diesel in no time. 3 of the 4 injectors wanted to come out but 1 wanted to snap so at that stage, I threw it back together and we sold it to some chap who specialises in those engines. A lovely car with a boat anchor of an engine
Polar opposite I've driven mine nearly 300000 kilometres the only problem was thermostat, diesel engines last several times longer than petrol engines because they are built stronger to withstand higher compression ratios.
@@Peter-f4o4z consider yourself lucky cos the vast majority of them blow up at half that mileage and less. Not hard to find them in scrapyards here for that reason
It actually gives me confidence seeing lots of Mazda's in the workshop. That means you know what you are doing with these engines 😀
Had my 2.2 10 years from new, 69k on the clock. Had to have new injectors at 49k, managed 66mpg on a 220 mile run at 70mph afterwards, but its now down to 55mph. Never managed to get 10k out of an oil change due to rising oil levels. Just done 1800 miles Berkshire to Scourie in Scotland, it certainly got a work out on that run, 12 hours at 70 mph and lots of gar work in between on the Scottting and Northumbrian hills. Never failed to give the torque when required, but did experience Code P243C ( frequent regen tries), which I put down to the gear work, so the Regen was forever being interupted by changing gear or stopping at 'passing places' on the narrow 'A' roads in the Highlands. During our stay in Inverness, I did add some water and soap solution down the DPF DP sensor pipes to prove they were clear and soften and carbon. The Exh sensor No.1 has had the treatment prior to the holiday as it has a capiliary pipe and banjo bolt which clogs up, so worth prooving clear.
Could anybody tell me the difference between the old sensor and new one( part No. Colour of sensor etc. )
If it is removed and engine started, you can easilly tell if its blocked.
A simple way to keep the inlet manifold clean would be a nozzle fitted just after the EGR connected to a dosing pot similar to your creen washer and pump, so when at a steady speed and everything is warmed up, give it a squirt of atomised water and a chemical such as washing up liquid. This would wash carbon off, as long the button is not pressed to long each time. I have used this method of cleaning large turbo, air sides in service. Hot water and compressed air.
I own mine since 2021 and never missed a beat. Very pleased of this engine and I'm confident that with frequent maintenance it will last for a very long time. I asked my misses about lubrication, you were so right 😂
I recently sold a Mazda 3 2.2 with 163k miles on it. Lovely car and I had the intake manifold Walnut blast cleaned (thanks to this channel) shortly prior to sale. Unfortunately the vacuum pump also started to fail in those last few months so I had to take some money off for the new buyer. I wouldn't put anyone off buying one, but you need to be aware of what you're getting into and warnings to look for.
I now follow this youtuber as the information provided is extremely useful for users of these engines!
My experience is that they are great engines, just need a little extra engine TLC (i bought a highly maintained one at 91k (2016), exhaust can at minimal wear, on the new type pressure sensor, no chain tap, had to replace to upgraded injector seals (worn but not failed), oil change set to about 6 month change, only had 1 fault when bought (high intake manifold pressure (carbon build up the cause), coolant good, minor carbon build up in the intake, overall an amazing condition engine. I use an Autel MK808BT for diag. Only downside for this car so far for me is the wheels ( i need to get them refurbed and red paint ones get minor lacquer peel.) my next jobs: oil change, intake clean, gear box oil change, drive belt change, air/fuel/cabin filter change.
I changed from an audi BRE 2l TDI, also brill car, lasted 7 years with me (182k, original engine, box, clutch, turbo, etc), only problems i saw with this engine are that the EGR causes DPF blocks (regen and SW code EGR to low to fix), body degrade after 16years (sills). As he says, keep proper maintenance and TLC, these engines go on for many miles and years. Extra TLC is also recommended (people forget gearbox oil changes, it also needs to be done every few years in my experience.)
A few months ago my Mazda CX-5 2.2 D with 139k had a few issues, but after leaving it with MrNiceGuy, changing the camshaft and vacumm pump, replacing the sensor (with all mazda's original parts) and fully decarboned, I can say that since the momemt I pick it up (11 days ago) it has been 'super'.
The cars response when I accelarate is immediate, and the 2.2 D engine is very smooth.
Happy that the car is back on the road and my family as well.
👍🏼👍🏼😊😊
What error code you had?
We are so glad Juan it is finally working for you! ;)
Which country you in Mr. Nice Guy?
@@MrNiceGuy94I was told by Mazda Australia not to run the specified 5W 30W but run a higher viscosity oil, I was told to run Castrol Magnatec 10W 40W apparently it does address wear issues on the camshaft and washer tolerance issues on some of the earliest diesel engines fitted to the CX models and some of the Mazda 6 models.
I've done 300000 kilometres no problemo except for the thermostat, they are difficult to change because of their position. No problem with camshaft
Thanks for such a honest video. I have both, cx-5 2.2 diesel (130k kms), and a civic type S 2.2 diesel (280k kms) Definetly, the civic hasn't asked for much (in terms of corrective maintenance) compared to the mazda during its lifetime. Being a mechanic myself, I admit the mazda needs more care, but also is a nicer car. Thanks for the great content!
Never service your car what the manufacturers recommend, I do service my car 3 times a year, every third service I do a full service Inclouding fuel filter ,,good advice there ,honest advice there
Just about to buy a 2016/2017 Mazda 6, apart from the obvious what should I check for and how would I know if the vacuum pump is on its way out..seems to be a common fault. I have seen to check the mass flow sensor to see what the intake manifold is looking like
Hi. I did fix several Mazda skyactives. Now I have one which comes as non runner. I changed oil pump plastic filter, clean all carbon from manifold, scraped and hoovered from cylinder , head ,clean small pipe from back of cylinder head and ending with sensor, changed 2 and 3 injectors heavily clogged in head. Car run but very heavy white smoke. Do you have Idea what can be wrong? Thanks
Hi Mr.NIce guy i have a question i have a 2.2D Mazda 3 and when i start my car in morning (i live in Norway by the way) the car doesnt do a cold a start sometimes but it does a normal start! Im wondering if this is normal on this engine because the whole summer i had cold starts in the morning but now that is starting to get cold it skipps cold starts in morning. Any idea whats going on?
Hi so true maintenance is most important
Great teacher explains very will thanks
I can’t find the clip on how to tighten the injectors correctly on 2.2 can you help me please
I have just bought CX5 with 2.2 Skyactiv-D 175hp 2015 with 155.000km on it. Car runs great and I want to remove the DPF and EGR (I can do it in my country without a problem). Should I do carbon cleaning too or not necessary unless I get an error or issues? Also, does removing the EGR and DPF help the car clean itself and prevent future build-up?
I fell over laughing.... Lubrication is important....
I agree, the engines needs to be maintained properly. I don't think they're horrible engines
Hi MrNiceGuy,
One question.. Has Mazda fixed any of the problems on the newer 2.2 diesel 184hp?
I own a Mazda 6 2015 2.2 sky activ and I have problem whit vacuum pomp and now I have problem whit egr valve what you recommend to do
When you change exhaust camshaft are you also replacing the followers or are they usually ok?
It's every manufacturer has problems with diesel engines. But the way to go it petrol these skyactiv petrol engines are amazing high compression and brilliant with high octane fuel and remap, great mpg too
How many kilometres does it have ?
Mazda petrol cars are some of the most reliable on the road 👍
Diesel engines last several times longer provided you do regular oil changes and run Castrol Magnatec
@@Peter-f4o4z Unfortunately that’s not the case anymore
@@MB-iw6guDiesel engines do last longer provided you service them on the correct intervals. EGR valve problems are easily overcome with a catch can or EGR blank plate
@ They used to but due to all EGRs ,add blue,dpf,ect ,they don’t last longer anymore unfortunately.
@MB-iw6gu I don't use ad blue (urea) in my Mazda 6 sky active, disable it
Hi Have you ever had any problems with intake camshaft wearing
Does anyone know how much it costs to change injectors on a 2014 Mazda 6 diesel 2.2 sky active in the UK...
I bought a brand new 2.2 skyactiv diesel 150 bhp, at 4000 miles I got a warning message that dpf was full, it was under warranty obviously, so it went to mazda and they changed the sensor on the exhaust, gave me the car back, after 2 weeks I got the same message again, so it went back and had all it's injectors changed, to be honest I was only doing 5000 miles in a year, but every week the car would do 36 miles in one go on the motorway so it was getting a blast every week, anyway for the next 3 years I didn't have any issues, only the old increase in the oil getting up to the X mark, I now drive a 2.0 ltr skyactiv X which is an amazing engine, that works like a diesel but it's petrol
you have oil dilution happening to the 2.2, should get it resolved immediately or boom
@@manyord7089 Read fully, I sold the car with 17000 miles from new, now drive a skyactiv x petrol
5k a year and '36 miles in one go on the motorway ...' is the problem - you shouldn't drive a modern diesel like that.
@@iandillon8713 I know, I have since sold the car for a petrol
@@sen5908 My point was that you should have known before you bought !!
Hey i have a question, i have a skyactive 2.2 i had some dpf flashing light so i took the dpf for ultrasonic cleaning, replaced the injector washer, cleand the injector, replaced the dpf sensor and the turbo sensor… in aprox 250 km i hand 3 regens and in the end i had the dpf flashing light… oil whas changed every 6000km…. I really need some help…
Look at my post, they changed all the injectors and it was fine after that
Did you get your question resolved? I have a similar situation
Anyone know where you can get the FL22 engine coolant from?
This engine is indeed not as reliable as vw diesel or bmw engine. I had m6 2013, till 200t km was lovely, but then came the avalanche of problems. Head gasket, turbo because of faulty rivet. After this 20t km was fine and since the head gasket the oil presure and temperature checked frequently, everything fine, but all of sudden piston rod knocking 800km away from home. How can it happen? Very disapointed and have to sell it for bargain.
I have a mazda 2 1.5d skyactive and I’m doing service in every 6000km because I love and care my car
I have also 1.5 Diesel Mazda 3. The main problem about these cars are injectors. They were changed 2 times ( First one at 20k km and second one at 35k..unbelievable!!! ) and injectors are not cheap! So I am also doing 6000 km oil change intervals even manual says 10k. Advise you to use injector cleaners periodically.
@ absolutely you are correct I know this checked the forums I’m using injector cleaners 👌🏽 my car is about 83,000 km now didn’t faced with injector problem yet I bought it about 65.000km, asked before owner he was also no faced with that problem
It is the manufacturers fault for not including it in the maintenance I think. Just like it is the manufacturers fault if changing oil at their recommended intervals is not enough to keep the engine they made happy. I'm not bashing Mazda, I love my cx-5 and I'm going to have those washers changed but if they inevitably need to be changed at some point, the service instructions should say so.
Hi mate
Where is your garage? Thanks
Lingfieldben vagyunk, Surrey megye 😉
De jo szuper mikor tudnek menni hozzatok ?
292,000 kilometres and still going strong for NOW
Mazda should have recalled the affected cars and replace the camshafts and injector washers. But they won't do it because of the cost. They only replace vacuum pump because it is a safety feature and could get sued. If you mess up, fix it.... Boohoo for mazda for that
And boohoo for the owner of this car. Camshaft is not that expensive, should have changed it and then sell. Instead of selling a lemon now.
I think the main problem is the people who buy these cars don't know anything about cars. They should maintain, but middle class people just drive them to the ground. That said I think diesel is more trouble than its worth, I mean look at the complexity compared to a simple petrol engine. Smelly and noisy.
The diesel is a more reliable engine than the petrol engine
Mazda and diesel aren't really a good mix imo. They all seem to give trouble. But, petrol engines theyre solid. Haven't heard of any to give much bother in my area
That's actually not true the diesel engine is more reliable providing you run Castrol Magnatec 10W 40W, rather than the 5W 30W that Mazda specify,
@Peter-f4o4z my dads 2.2 skyactiv was riddled with problems as long as he owned the thing. Turbo at 80k km, leak back pipe cracked near 110k km, head gasket decided to let go around 116k km. Mazda quoted 10,000 euros for a new engine as the head gaskets are known to be anything but a success once done. We put a bottle of steel seal into it which lasted just over a year. That brought it to 137k km. Where it started to leak again. So it got a second bottle which saw it out. At 143k km the injector seals failed catastrophically and dumped 2 or 3 liters of raw diesel into the sump. We got rid of it a week later
The likes of this btw are not unique to our 2.2 diesel mazda. It is known to be a highly problematic engine. Their 2 liter diesel they made with ford loved to dump diesel in the sump aswell, although it's troubles aren't as extravagant as the 2.2. One of my teachers in school had a diesel mazda van that loved to overheat. Don't know what that things problem was but I do know he got rid of that thing. It wasn't old at the time either.
Turn that whole lot around and look at their petrol engines. I know a lot of people who have petrol mazdas and none of them have given an ounce of trouble by comparison to the diesels. So no, mazda diesels are not reliable. I spent enough time and effort keeping 1 of the cunts going......
Rubbish. Diesel cars need to be serviced on time . The better you look after the car the more reliable it will be simple. Owners neglecting serving with obviously have problems.
@MdnDalle I agree, but good maintenance won't keep a notoriously bad engine from blowing up. My dads one was always serviced on time and yet it blew. I have a honda 1.6 diesel myself and do what it calls for. No issues with it.
Just a fact of life, not all engines are made equal. I have a dam 1999 honda accord with a 1.8 petrol engine in it. That thing racked up just under double the mileage of the diesel mazda and to this day, it hasn't been opened once, nor has it given even a quarter of the trouble the mazda gave. So having a diesel doesn't automatically make your car more reliable. Theyre far more complex to begin with but thats mainly emmissions driven.
I had a 1.2 petrol corsa at one point aswell which broke my heart.
Again, there's another instance of fuel type dont matter for reliability. Actually that corsa had more mileage on it than the mazda before I got rid of it. So again, first hand, I saw how fuel type doesn't matter in terms of engine longevity. It comes down to how that engine is built, how it's designed, what its made from, and and only then it gets into the maintenance side of things.
Well designed engine+ good maintenance= long life vehicle.
Well designed engine+ poor maintenance= meh lifespan vehicle.
Poorly designed engine+ good maintenance= meh lifespan vehicle.
Poorly designed engine+ poor maintenance= big bang
@@alexhickey5633I’m not sure about this . I know Diesels need to be maintained religiously because of the carbon from the fuel hence more regular maintenance than a petrol engine. I actually prefer a diesel over a petrol engine any day. Better fuel efficiency. That’s my take .
Haha, pls enlighten us about your thoughts on VW.
There are so many more makes with more serious mechanical problems than a Mazda .
The 2.2d is not reliable. My 2015 mazda 6 was decarbed by a dealship 4yrs ago. Then the vacuum pump failed and cam shaft was also changed. Then the respiratory on the air con system failed behind the dashboard. Decarb required again this month and i noticed signs the seals are leaking on the fuel injectors not reported by the dealership on dynostic check . Ive been changing the oil every 6k miles instead of the 12.5k miles recommended and filling with vpower fuel. This has made no difference to the longevity of the engine!! I am not happy with this car. When it not being repeared its a great car but that is never in a full year after 5yrs old.i forgot the alloy where changed under warranty, but the replacement have also corroded after warrenty. The paint is so thin ,you have chipped paint all over the car.
I agree about the paint, mazda paint is crap
My dad had one of these. We got over the thin paint fairly quickly so that was grand.
But the 1 thing he'd change about that car was the engine. It was relatively troublefree til it got to 100k km. Turbo was the first thing to go but mazda put a new one into it under warrenty. So that was grand anyway, drove it on for another year or 2 after that until the head gasket popped. At the time we were contemplating doing the head gasket but lots of people have said they aren't a success. So, back to mazda to see what their fix was. A new engine for 10,000 euros. And add on around 3000 for labour. So 13,000 to do the engine. And no way were we putting that much money into a car worth around that much. So, into the motor factors for a bottle of that head gasket in a bottle stuff. That worked for just over a year with no trouble. The level started to go down a little again so we lobbed in a 2nd bottle. That saw the car out of our ownership. For a finish the injector seals went and it was filling the sump with diesel in no time. 3 of the 4 injectors wanted to come out but 1 wanted to snap so at that stage, I threw it back together and we sold it to some chap who specialises in those engines.
A lovely car with a boat anchor of an engine
@@sen5908My paint is fine withstanding temps above 45C in the harsh Aussie sun
I have a 2014 Mazda 6 diesel. 292,000 kilometres. No problems.
@@MdnDalle *for now
Horrible engine from Japan
Mine has no problem except thermostat needs to be changed, if you run Castrol Magnatec there's no problem
@@Peter-f4o4zexactly I have one with close to 300,000 kilometres .
Rubbish car man.
Biggest problem with them is that POS engine. Any of the petrol ones floating around you rarely hear of them giving trouble
Polar opposite I've driven mine nearly 300000 kilometres the only problem was thermostat, diesel engines last several times longer than petrol engines because they are built stronger to withstand higher compression ratios.
@@Peter-f4o4z consider yourself lucky cos the vast majority of them blow up at half that mileage and less. Not hard to find them in scrapyards here for that reason
@@Peter-f4o4z Same here, i have a 2017 mazda 6 2.2d with 130 000 km and its been very reliable
@@Peter-f4o4z I have the same car with 292,000 on the clock . You need to maintain a diesel religiously.