I hear you loud and clear. Stay tuned to what Westcoast Saw is up to. Oregon is always hard at work, right here in Portland Oregon testing and developing equipment that gets it done in the woods.
I second this! I never got to run one of their lightweight bars personally, but all of the loggers I've heard say it was their favorite bars made! No clue why they discontinued it :(
Keep it coming! Maybe they already have this in the catalog? A table with saw CC, bar length, and recommended chain (full skip, etc.) and tooth type. Most users aren't going to take the time to make their own spreadsheet to figure out how many cutters per inch of bar their saw can handle.
I found the knowledge on the sprockets helpful. Also, types of chains and when it’s best to use certain types depending on bar size and chain gauge would be great to hear more of! Thanks for sharing the knowledge with these guys, Gordy! Great video! I have a lot of respect for your knowledge and experience with chains! Thanks for sharing it with us!
Tooth design for applications, backyard wood cutter to professional and how to repeat that tooth profile in the woods. Also chain tension and what to look for. The info about the sprocket was great, thanks!
@@OTJake-ENG right..I see Mitch is going to the .325...im a subscriber....would love technical vids on these topics and discussions on maint and sharpening......the sprocket was a eyebrow raiser for me.
Thanks for sharing Gordy. I would like to see Oregon make light bars again and also the adjustable depth gauge from years ago. Make both in the U.S. or Canada of premium quality steel. Also a blank unsharpened chain say on the Carlton A1LMSK chassis, I end up regrinding most chains out of the box to suit my preference so why not offer an unsharpened blank chain in 100' rolls at a reduced cost?
Just Glad to see Oregon is still in operation and still made in the USA. We carry new Oregon sprockets with us in our Truck every day in our saw repair kit. It includes rope for starter ropes, sprockets for every saw we run, replacement bars, a complete spool of chain and all the tools to make new chains, air filters, carb kits, you name it and we have it in our kit....about the only thing we don't have is a replacement case part, jug or crank case, piston, rings, crankshaft etc..we do that at home in the shop...lol.
Excellent information and I'm really excited to see where this partnership goes! A whole series on this channel of OREGON videos would be amazing! Thanks Gordy for this video and the recent shop tour where I learned a ton about chainsaw chains and even zero turn lawnmower blades!
Would love to see more videos on this subject. I know from personal experience that a saw properly setup is a real joy to run even when the work is brutally hard. Thanks and keep yourself safe! 😃👍❤🌲 Randy
Very informative and helpful. I have always had issues with throwing the chain while brushing out with long bars and 70 cc saws. I would like to see more information on what causes the chain to be thrown off the bar while brushing out.
Great video, we can never get too much information on saw chain. I have been supporting Oregon chains ever since I was helping remove storm damaged trees in my area and Oregon came down and had a free chain sharpening service to assist with storm cleanup, great company. Gordie is the best one to partner with on future videos for sure.
Going back to my motorcycle days , sprockets would need to be changed from time to time especially on dirt bikes , it was mantra to always put a new chain on new sprockets . Good vid Gordy , looking forward to the next one , cheers .
Great video Gordy and fellas. I’d definitely love to see more conversations about anything these gentlemen would like to talk about. The more technical the better.
@@OTJake-ENGWell, how about a SPECIAL and LONG LENGTH FORMAT “special” just for us “chainsaw nerds” or what not? Almost ANY OF US that at interested in this type of stuff would be more than interested in taking the time to sit down and watch it, disect it, and ULTIMATELY digest it! It’d be some of the best edutainment that specialty folks like us could hope for. 😂😢
I buy rolls of Oregon chain because its easy to order and it works very well. I am still pretty disappointed that Oregon stopped making the heavier chrome X chain. That chain worked even better. Much better. Id like to see that come back. They can keep that new fancy angled cutter stuff. I do brlieve Stihl makes better (harder) chain. Thanks Gordy
Thanks for bringing up the ex chain. I have let them know a lot of guys like yourself have wanted to bring it back. It’s great that they’re hearing this from you guys. Maybe we can convince them to bring it back 👍
Gordy, thank you sir for this amazing video! I grew up and spent a lot of time with my Grandpa and his best friend who was a logger in Northern MinneSnowta, so I learned from an olE school logger, but looking back now so many years later and realizing the one thing he really never spent time to teach me was anything to do with the chains as he didn't want anyone else to be blamed if the chain was not sharpened properly and this video really dialed in somethings for me now. I would love to get better at understanding the proper chain for the specific saws that I use now and this is a good start in that direction.
Awesome and very informative video! Some props on reading chain, different types of chain in action and the purpose of the chain, and the products (such as sprockets and their wear indicators) for different power heads would be great. I didn’t know they offered sprockets and such!
Great video Gordy! Love Oregon chains i run them on all my saws. Would be interested to hear from Oregon if they're considering making lightweight bars again?
It would be nice if oregon could bring out a wood measuring device or lazer to mount to the chainsaw to help measure the width of wood that a person would need to cut for firewood as they don’t have anything like this here in Ireland 🇮🇪 so we have to roughly gauge it .
We have what you’re looking for on our website. It is a laser goes right on the side of your saw gives you a perfect measurement for cutting firewood.👍
Super cool video this is what we need more of in our hobby/industry, real professionals talking about products, straight from the horses mouth. nice work. 💪🏼
Good info in this video. Thanks! Back in the mid 90's my wife and I went to a steel shipper in Indiana and picked up a truckload load of coiled steel for Oregon, in Milwaukee, Oregon. We specialized in frozen refrigerated truck loads beck then, and were surprised to find that the load was to be kept at a constant temp at around 50 degrees. I was pretty impressed in their quality control from start to finish when we delivered at Oregon. We are still using Oregon chains and bars, and they now also make some very tough aftermarket mower blades that outlast John Deer blades 3:1. The next sprocket I get will be from Oregon, as well. I wasn't aware they had them when I recently replaced one.
A special steel that had to be kept chilled, prior to being placed in a press was adopted by Ford Motor Company maybe 20 years back for car bodies. It allowed the use of lighter and stronger steel.
cool video. i run 24 and 28 inch bars but never checked the drive sprockets for wear, unless it felt weird installing a new chain. i will start replacing them more often. thanks!
I'd love to hear those guys discuss the optimum chain tension. I bet like a lot of guys I have ran chains too sloppy and too tight. Their opinion would be priceless.
Great question! In testing, we aim for optimal and consistent chain tension. Although this procedure isn't typically performed in the woods, it involves hanging a 2-pound weight from the center of the bar to cause a 1/4-inch droop in the chain. This usually results in about 20 pounds of tension. In practice, pulling the bar up, tensioning it until snug, and then tightening the bar studs should allow the chain to run freely around the bar. It should also produce a nice "snap" when the chain is pulled out of the bar groove and then released. I'll discuss this with Gordy next time we chat. Thank you!
@@OTJake-ENG Wow, I never imagined that you would reply personally. Thank you so very much Sir. I look forward to your next meeting with Gordy with great anticipation. Kindest regards from a 56 year old Scottish wood butcher.
@@OTJake-ENG The 2 lb pull gives a closer example as to tension much better than the old pull down and insert a nickle that has been used in the past but it never stated pull down how hard, Question does the 1/4inch droop at 2lbs technique equal the same 20lbs of tension on a 14inch bar as well as 60inch bar?
Gordy, I get into my tie straps too, lmao. Not as a common practice, ya know, but I think a lot of us do. You're just man enough to admit it. Great video dude. Thank You!!
I would like to see more info on how to read the wear indicators on the sprocket. I have one saw in particular 10mm 044 that has been rebuilt several times and at most the sprocket has been replaced once.🤔
Love the video Gordy! Id like to see a more in depth tutorial about which chains to use for specific powerhead power, application, and even for the type of wood. For example: this chain for a 92 cc powerhead for falling and bucking hickory vs cedar. Either way, I love your ability to "dumb" stuff down for us.
YES - keep this conversation going. Thats real good stuff! I like the idea of Jake to show some examples (good, bad, worst kind) and please give him a white board to express his thoughts. Would be nice if Glenn could elaborate a bit on the typical pitfalls he is seeing at customers which can be easy avoided. Oregon is a very well known brand in Europe but im still sticking with the OEM chains - would be nice to have a better understanding whats the difference Oregon vs. lts say Husquavna OEM chains. Not a sales pitch but let these guys tell from a technical perspective why oregon is the way to go. That i would love to understand.
Very interested in learning more about knowing when your sprocket needs replacing. I've been following many chain sharpening groups on fb ect. And people post all sorts of problems and i dont think ive read 1 reply about sprockets. 2 chains to 1 sprocket seems a bit crazy( of course dealers want to sell) id bet even most professionals aren't doing this maintenance soon enough (if ever)
Here’s the thing: it’s not so much the “wear” as it’s more of a “beating” that both sprocket AND chain take. The sprockets are beaten INWARDS while the chain is beaten OUTWARDS which is why it’s so very easy for the 2 parts of the “system” to become “out of time” with each other. It’s a similar idea to a ring less piston inside of a bore: the more of the wear on EITHER component then the more “exaggerated” the wear will be on the other.
Great video Please get them to explain in more detail on the sharpening I've been a Sawyer all my life I started in the logging Woods in the last 13 and a half from 55 now great video I love it
This was an awesome video!!!! Makes me love oregon products even more!!! Ive had a few of their chains where it seemed like they never went dull, lol those fuckers lasted for ever!!!
Bring back the old style adjustable raker gauge, best tool Oregon ever made. I am still using my grandfather’s from back in the 50s or 60s. It is worn badly but you just recalibrate it and move on!
Super great video Gordy !!!!! If it went on for hour's I'd be glued 😅 One thing I'd like to see is a Speed cut Nano chain without the safety rakers. I Love the 1/4 pitch Panther chain for the top handles but the bars are junk so I thought I'd try the Nano but the only chain I've found available is home owner crap. This bar, chain and sprocket is only going to be bought by people in the business so why not have good chain available for it 🙂
I think it would be cool if they brought the reduced weight bar back. I’d say there’s no room in the market but hell if I’d pay for a cannon lite bar, so there might be.
What questions might you have? I will provide an example of what i think you are asking just to get the ball rolling. 3/8 7-tooth vs. 3/8 8-tooth. When comparing a 3/8 7-tooth sprocket to a 3/8 8-tooth sprocket, there are important factors to consider: Chain Speed: Installing an 8-tooth sprocket increases chain speed compared to a 7-tooth sprocket. This can result in more efficient cutting, particularly in softwoods, as the faster chain speed can help clear chips more effectively. Torque: An 8-tooth sprocket reduces the available torque at the chain compared to a 7-tooth sprocket. This can be a disadvantage when cutting hardwoods or larger diameter logs where more cutters are engaged, where higher torque may be beneficial. Application: Wood Species: Different wood species require different cutting approaches. Generally speaking, softwoods benefit more from higher chain speeds, while hardwoods may require more torque to form the chip. Cutting Mode: The type of cutting (e.g., cross-cutting vs. ripping, etc.) influences the optimal sprocket choice. Power Head Capability: The power head's power output should match the demands of the sprocket and chain to balance torque and speed, avoiding engine overload. Chain Preparation: Proper chain maintenance and cutter geometries are crucial for optimizing cutting performance, regardless of the sprocket used. Having said that, playing with the depth of cut can be beneficial when changing the sprocket tooth count. Personal Preference: We must keep in mind that individual users have specific preferences based on their experience, comfort, and cutting needs. Therefore, there is rarely a one-size-fits-all solution. Please consider all these factors when deciding the tooth count of the sprocket in your system, or better yet try it out for yourself. Safe cutting out there! Jake
In my example, I didn't specify a particular chain. I chose a saw, specifically the 500i, to illustrate the issues that can arise when a cutting system isn't well paired with a power head. if you would like a recommendation, let me know your system, style, and what you are cutting.
It would be really good to see a part two. Maybe a long form video. Maybe touching on more tactical things I think it’s good that you got onto the sprocket maybe talk about bar maintenance and damage and what that might mean as far as the chain life. Also, did you hear anything? Are they bringing back their lightweight bars?
Love the talk! Keep them coming! Question- for us occasional saw users, where on the rpm curve is ideal for maximum chain life? Is it full throttle, light loading, or heavy loading, low RPM? Or in between? Also, will I cut a log faster by rocking the saw up and down, or keeping the saw level with the log?
Great questions, I tend to run my saws at full throttle applying enough force to hit the RPM/Power sweet spot for the saw. As far as life is concerned, if the bar chain and sprocket are in good condition one should have no trouble filling a chain to the end of its life with plenty of chassis life in reserve. Keeping the saw level with the log generally provides a more efficient and consistent cutting. However, rocking the saw can be useful in situations like clearing sawdust, and controlling the off-cut or tight quarters. This gets a bit more technical with grain orientation, but I'll save that for a different day. Safe cutting out there! Jake
ive been trying to tell people for decades that chains are individually sharped before the chain is assembled. this means after assembly the cutters are not all cutting the same. thats why after a couple sharpenings it starts to cut bettter
Thanks for the comment! Cutters become shorter and narrower as they are sharpened through life. As the cutters are filed back, they create a narrower cut in the wood, improving chain efficiency (Performance) up to around half the life of the cutters. In the factory here, we optimized the grind for the full kerf on a new chain, optimizing for a balance of performance, durability, and ease of sharpening right out of the box.
Gordy, thanks for the informative video. I have learned a ton from you. I would really like to hear some discussion on milling and millng chains. I have been running oregon milling chains on my 592 through some maple. Deadly combination.
@@OTJake-ENGJake, why don’t you folks offer any “square grind” files and not just round and raker files. You sell pre-ground “square ground” chain, but no files for it. What gives!
Chain stretch and a worn drive sprocket impact cutting performance by causing misalignment and uneven engagement between the chain and drive sprocket. This leads to increased friction, vibration, and accelerated wear on the chain, bar, and sprocket. This shortens the service life of all cutting system components all while reducing control and precision in the cut. What I like to say is; A worn sprocket will damage every chain it comes in contact with.
Hey Gordy reading rim ware, spur ware for home owner, what driver changes does and Doesn’t do for porformace, have then explain 42.4cc saw running .325- 66DL micro runs So smooth and cuts so great(346xp), 242xp with same bar has harder time cutting over 2.5” limbs, Get white board out and show what people need to know. Yep in Swedish and like red and Orange. I went out and checked I own piles of different Oregon chain. I like the square ground but doesn’t last in MN. My favorite chain of all time Was 3/8 (77) chain cutter was a great.
I don't have a whiteboard to illustrate, but I'll address your questions as best as I can. A worn sprocket will immediately stretch a new chain and cause wear from the sprocket/spur. Your 346XP has 3.6hp and the 242XP has 3.1hp, giving a 15.5% power difference. Keep in mind that there's always a power loss when spinning the chain, which varies with bar length, chain tension, lubrication, etc. For your 242XP, I recommend a shorter bar and milder depth gauges. Safe cutting out there! Jake
I would love to hear more from you guys about the role of the gullet in the process of wood chip formation, transportation and egression from the cutting kerf. How is this affected by the dimensional relationships present in the cutter link and how exactly do you determine the chip drag coefficient.
Do chains have an optimal linear fpm? Some of the saw builders are pushing 15,000 rpm in the cut now. Why do some chains spec 25 degrees and others 30 degrees on the cutter? Why won't the 325 nano chain work with a standard 325 sprocket? Was it designed to work with a 6 tooth sprocket and regular 325 can't turn that tight?
Thanks for the questions! Everything in physics has its trade-offs, and chainsaw performance is no exception. Cutting efficiency varies based on chain type and material. High speeds and feed loads add stress, affecting system longevity. Optimal chain speed depends on available power and cutter geometry, which can vary based on the power head and chain preparation. Let's dive into some numbers. Using an MS 500i, rated for a max RPM of 14,000 and 6.7 HP, I observed a max power of 6.22 HP at 9500 RPM on my Magtol Dynamometer. While the saw can reach 14,000 RPM unloaded, real work is done at lower RPMs. Here's the math: Chain pitch: 3/8in Number of teeth: 7 Circumference: (3/8×2)×7=5.25in Circumference in feet: 5.25/12=0.4375ft Chain speed: 0.4375×9500=4156.25fpm So in this example, even if the max RPM is 14,000, max power is achieved at 9500 RPM, giving a chain speed of 4156.25 feet per minute. Great question on the Top Plate Angle (TPA) Geometries. There are some basics to keep in mind here as far as the physics of a chisel. A steeper TPA like 30° can allow for faster cutting and produce smoother cuts. They are ideal for softwoods and general-purpose cutting. However (Trade-offs), they can be more sensitive, especially in harder or dirty wood. A user may notice a steeper TPA to be a bit less stable entering and while in the cut making it more difficult to hold a straight line. A shallower TPA like 20° can provide an improved durability and is suitable for cutting hardwoods or dirty wood. They cut more slower compared to steeper angles but can be less sensitive. A user may notice a shallower TPA to be more stable both entering and while in the cut, making it easier to hold a straight line. SpeedCut Nano (SPM) Though the pitch .325 is the same SpeedCut Nano is a narrow kerf, low profile and high-efficiency chain. SpeedCut Nano is incompatible with conventional .325 components. It is the same concept as 3/8 "91" chains to 3/8 "70" chains. This new platform was required to achieve the performance and efficiency we targeted. Systems can be converted with a sprocket bar and chain. Jake
@OTJake-ENG Thanks! On the chain speed , porters are close to getting max hp at 15,000 rpm. Thats why I was asking. Im getting 11,700 in the cut on my ported 372xp myself and Im not near the caliber porter as some of these people.
@@kraftzion I can only speak to what I have observed on the Dyno. To date I have only Dyno'ed stock saws. It would be very interesting to get a hot saw on the brake and analyze those metrics.
Gordi how do you get spools of chain and where do you get it from I ran out of 3/8 058 gauge chain and I cant afford to get a spool I'm just a 14 dude that likes vintage saws.
All my chains are from Oregon. Though was surprised they weren't actually in Oregon. What caught my attention was about the drive sprocket wear in relation to a new chain. Same goes for new brake pads to a worn-out brake disc.
Gordy I hate to ask lol, but I run mostly echo saws and their dawgs are terrible, do you have dawgs for these saws? N how bout milawaukee new battery top handle or 8” hatchet?
Oregon has a great little book "Oregon Maintenance and Safety Manual" that has a lot of info like the 2 chains per sprocket rule. It's available for free on their website as a PDF. I have to say they made it sound like you can't get good performance out of a chain you file or grind yourself. Is that a little bit of marketing mixed in there?
One can get great performance grinding or filing. Following the recommended angles will get one very close to out-of-the-box efficiency, having said that some of the more sophisticated grinds are difficult or impossible to achieve in an assembled chain without damaging drive links and/or tie traps. Safe cutting out there.
@@OTJake-ENG Rodger that. My biggest problem is not nicking a tie-strap. I would like to see a discussion on depth gauge setting using a Carlton File-o-Plate / Westcoast Saw progressive style vs the non progressive style gauge.
@@JamesStuckey-n6hprogressive is the way to go. That’s because of the “rocking” motion of the way chain cuts. With a “static” style of gauge then for the more that the chain wears but with the same measured DOWN amount that static gauge gives you, the THICKER that chip will become. That thicker “chip” is harder to cut OR eject from the saw. Unless you have a VERY big engine (1000cc+) you’ll NEVER be able to to completely remove the depth gauges from saw chain.
Still haven’t invested in a bench grinder , I think that’s what I am missing to making efficient chains, who’s got the best grinder for around a thousand $?
Be cool if they brought back there light weight bar from years past.
My thoughts exactly.
I hear you loud and clear. Stay tuned to what Westcoast Saw is up to. Oregon is always hard at work, right here in Portland Oregon testing and developing equipment that gets it done in the woods.
I second this! I never got to run one of their lightweight bars personally, but all of the loggers I've heard say it was their favorite bars made! No clue why they discontinued it :(
Very cool
if they'd allow it, maybe some bar production vids along with more chain stuff.
Part two would be great. thanks Gordy for all the videos
Thanks we are going to try and do this more and get more in-depth
Keep it coming! Maybe they already have this in the catalog? A table with saw CC, bar length, and recommended chain (full skip, etc.) and tooth type. Most users aren't going to take the time to make their own spreadsheet to figure out how many cutters per inch of bar their saw can handle.
I found the knowledge on the sprockets helpful. Also, types of chains and when it’s best to use certain types depending on bar size and chain gauge would be great to hear more of!
Thanks for sharing the knowledge with these guys, Gordy! Great video! I have a lot of respect for your knowledge and experience with chains! Thanks for sharing it with us!
Good call. I want to discuss both chain sequences and cutter types in the future. Thank you for adding that to the conversation.
@@OTJake-ENG thanks for sharing the knowledge! Really helpful!
Great Conversation. I have been overlooking my sprockets I do believe.
Tooth design for applications, backyard wood cutter to professional and how to repeat that tooth profile in the woods. Also chain tension and what to look for. The info about the sprocket was great, thanks!
That was such a great and educational experience. Thanks again for the invitation. 🔥
It was great to have you here! I really appreciated our conversation and your insights about your application of .325.
@@OTJake-ENG right..I see Mitch is going to the .325...im a subscriber....would love technical vids on these topics and discussions on maint and sharpening......the sprocket was a eyebrow raiser for me.
I'd be interested in seeing some of the tooth designs they experimented with that didn't work and hear them explain why. 👍
Great episode Gordy!
Thanks for sharing Gordy. I would like to see Oregon make light bars again and also the adjustable depth gauge from years ago. Make both in the U.S. or Canada of premium quality steel. Also a blank unsharpened chain say on the Carlton A1LMSK chassis, I end up regrinding most chains out of the box to suit my preference so why not offer an unsharpened blank chain in 100' rolls at a reduced cost?
Just Glad to see Oregon is still in operation and still made in the USA.
We carry new Oregon sprockets with us in our Truck every day in our saw repair kit. It includes rope for starter ropes, sprockets for every saw we run, replacement bars, a complete spool of chain and all the tools to make new chains, air filters, carb kits, you name it and we have it in our kit....about the only thing we don't have is a replacement case part, jug or crank case, piston, rings, crankshaft etc..we do that at home in the shop...lol.
Excellent information and I'm really excited to see where this partnership goes!
A whole series on this channel of OREGON videos would be amazing!
Thanks Gordy for this video and the recent shop tour where I learned a ton about chainsaw chains and even zero turn lawnmower blades!
Dude! Keep the info coming! Thank you all for sharing!
Will do!
Top notch all the way!!!!!
There's nothing like hearing the information from the experts!💪
That was pretty cool! Would love to see more like that- love the science of saw chain- great job!
Would love to see more videos on this subject. I know from personal experience
that a saw properly setup is a real joy to run even when the work is brutally hard.
Thanks and keep yourself safe! 😃👍❤🌲
Randy
Very informative and helpful. I have always had issues with throwing the chain while brushing out with long bars and 70 cc saws.
I would like to see more information on what causes the chain to be thrown off the bar while brushing out.
Hey Gordy, thanks, good video! Never paid to too much attention to sprockets, dare say I'll be changing a few out. Thanks to Glen and Jake for sharing
Info on hexa and the trend of smaller sized chain. Will a 572xp come with .325 someday kind of thing
Great video, we can never get too much information on saw chain. I have been supporting Oregon chains ever since I was helping remove storm damaged trees in my area and Oregon came down and had a free chain sharpening service to assist with storm cleanup, great company. Gordie is the best one to partner with on future videos for sure.
Love this video. Thanks to everyone involved!
Thank you
Going back to my motorcycle days , sprockets would need to be changed from time to time especially on dirt bikes , it was mantra to always put a new chain on new sprockets . Good vid Gordy , looking forward to the next one , cheers .
Great video Gordy and fellas. I’d definitely love to see more conversations about anything these gentlemen would like to talk about. The more technical the better.
We could only scratch the surface in the time we had. It is good to hear that the information was well received.
@@OTJake-ENGWell, how about a SPECIAL and LONG LENGTH FORMAT “special” just for us “chainsaw nerds” or what not? Almost ANY OF US that at interested in this type of stuff would be more than interested in taking the time to sit down and watch it, disect it, and ULTIMATELY digest it! It’d be some of the best edutainment that specialty folks like us could hope for. 😂😢
I buy rolls of Oregon chain because its easy to order and it works very well.
I am still pretty disappointed that Oregon stopped making the heavier chrome X chain. That chain worked even better. Much better.
Id like to see that come back. They can keep that new fancy angled cutter stuff.
I do brlieve Stihl makes better (harder) chain.
Thanks Gordy
Thanks for bringing up the ex chain. I have let them know a lot of guys like yourself have wanted to bring it back. It’s great that they’re hearing this from you guys. Maybe we can convince them to bring it back 👍
Gordy, thank you sir for this amazing video!
I grew up and spent a lot of time with my Grandpa and his best friend who was a logger in Northern MinneSnowta, so I learned from an olE school logger, but looking back now so many years later and realizing the one thing he really never spent time to teach me was anything to do with the chains as he didn't want anyone else to be blamed if the chain was not sharpened properly and this video really dialed in somethings for me now. I would love to get better at understanding the proper chain for the specific saws that I use now and this is a good start in that direction.
You bet thank you for the Comment Hopefully, we can address all your guises questions on the next videos coming up👍
I love the EXL. I would love to hear some conversation about it.
I do miss the Oregon lite weight bars, i don’t no why they quit making them, to me they was the best in the market
Awesome and very informative video! Some props on reading chain, different types of chain in action and the purpose of the chain, and the products (such as sprockets and their wear indicators) for different power heads would be great. I didn’t know they offered sprockets and such!
Would it great to get some information on what to look at while filling a chain
Great stuff as always Gordy, we wanna know and see more from Oregon, thank you !!!
You got it!
Great video Gordy! Love Oregon chains i run them on all my saws. Would be interested to hear from Oregon if they're considering making lightweight bars again?
It would be nice if oregon could bring out a wood measuring device or lazer to mount to the chainsaw to help measure the width of wood that a person would need to cut for firewood as they don’t have anything like this here in Ireland 🇮🇪 so we have to roughly gauge it .
We have what you’re looking for on our website. It is a laser goes right on the side of your saw gives you a perfect measurement for cutting firewood.👍
Not wishing to cut into Gordy's sales but a zip tie wrapped around the wrap handle and trimmed to appropriate length works pretty good.
Super cool video this is what we need more of in our hobby/industry, real professionals talking about products, straight from the horses mouth. nice work. 💪🏼
Good info in this video. Thanks!
Back in the mid 90's my wife and I went to a steel shipper in Indiana and picked up a truckload load of coiled steel for Oregon, in Milwaukee, Oregon. We specialized in frozen refrigerated truck loads beck then, and were surprised to find that the load was to be kept at a constant temp at around 50 degrees. I was pretty impressed in their quality control from start to finish when we delivered at Oregon. We are still using Oregon chains and bars, and they now also make some very tough aftermarket mower blades that outlast John Deer blades 3:1. The next sprocket I get will be from Oregon, as well. I wasn't aware they had them when I recently replaced one.
A special steel that had to be kept chilled, prior to being placed in a press was adopted by Ford Motor Company maybe 20 years back for car bodies. It allowed the use of lighter and stronger steel.
I wondered what those lines on the drive sprockets were- wear indicators! 47 years of timber cutting and still learning.
Great video gordy in depth hope to see more from you and oregon
cool video. i run 24 and 28 inch bars but never checked the drive sprockets for wear, unless it felt weird installing a new chain. i will start replacing them more often. thanks!
I'd love to hear those guys discuss the optimum chain tension. I bet like a lot of guys I have ran chains too sloppy and too tight. Their opinion would be priceless.
Great question! In testing, we aim for optimal and consistent chain tension. Although this procedure isn't typically performed in the woods, it involves hanging a 2-pound weight from the center of the bar to cause a 1/4-inch droop in the chain. This usually results in about 20 pounds of tension.
In practice, pulling the bar up, tensioning it until snug, and then tightening the bar studs should allow the chain to run freely around the bar. It should also produce a nice "snap" when the chain is pulled out of the bar groove and then released. I'll discuss this with Gordy next time we chat. Thank you!
@@OTJake-ENG Wow, I never imagined that you would reply personally. Thank you so very much Sir. I look forward to your next meeting with Gordy with great anticipation. Kindest regards from a 56 year old Scottish wood butcher.
@@OTJake-ENGsuper crucial Iv been wondering this myself recently of best method and what to aim for with tension. Thanks man
@@longlowdog I live and breathe this stuff it is my pleasure to help spread the word. The real thank you belongs to Gordy for setting this up.
@@OTJake-ENG The 2 lb pull gives a closer example as to tension much better than the old pull down and insert a nickle that has been used in the past but it never stated pull down how hard, Question does the 1/4inch droop at 2lbs technique equal the same 20lbs of tension on a 14inch bar as well as 60inch bar?
Great reminder that you can have all the power in the world, but if your chain is junk, it doesn't really matter.
Absolutely!
Gordy, I get into my tie straps too, lmao. Not as a common practice, ya know, but I think a lot of us do. You're just man enough to admit it. Great video dude. Thank You!!
Very cool of them & yourself Gordy to help any of the keyboard know it alls with actual real world information.
I went to middle school with Glenn!! Glad to see him doing well!!
Oregon square ground files ? never seen em Gordie ..Hey thanks I'm off to replace some sprockets ... Gold as always
I would like to see more info on how to read the wear indicators on the sprocket. I have one saw in particular 10mm 044 that has been rebuilt several times and at most the sprocket has been replaced once.🤔
Awesome explanation and educational video I sure wish Oregon would bring back their lightweight bar
Stay tuned.
@@OTJake-ENGAWESOMENESS!
Great interview and great information!! Thanks Gordy! 👍🏻👍🏻
I'd LOVE them to give recommendations on types of sharpening tools and best practice for sharpening their chains!
Never heard any of this about chains before. Very intriguing to know how far chains have come (if they could talk about that too)
Love the video Gordy! Id like to see a more in depth tutorial about which chains to use for specific powerhead power, application, and even for the type of wood. For example: this chain for a 92 cc powerhead for falling and bucking hickory vs cedar. Either way, I love your ability to "dumb" stuff down for us.
It would be interesting to see them explain the pros and cons of round ground vs square ground.
YES - keep this conversation going. Thats real good stuff! I like the idea of Jake to show some examples (good, bad, worst kind) and please give him a white board to express his thoughts. Would be nice if Glenn could elaborate a bit on the typical pitfalls he is seeing at customers which can be easy avoided. Oregon is a very well known brand in Europe but im still sticking with the OEM chains - would be nice to have a better understanding whats the difference Oregon vs. lts say Husquavna OEM chains. Not a sales pitch but let these guys tell from a technical perspective why oregon is the way to go. That i would love to understand.
Great video .
I have been to the Guelph Ontario facility , so impressive. I look forward to more videos of this nature. Thanks so much.
Good video!! Good nerdy saw-guy stuff! 😝 Thanks guys!
I saw what I think was the new light weight Oregon bar would love to see when they’re going to come out with it to the public
Didn’t know about changing the sprocket so often!
I did know that, but I'm really bad about changing them, oops.
Thank you gentlemen. Interesting video. Cheers from NZ🇳🇿.
I would love to hear a conversation on square grinding/ filing from Jake and Glenn at Oregon
Very interested in learning more about knowing when your sprocket needs replacing. I've been following many chain sharpening groups on fb ect. And people post all sorts of problems and i dont think ive read 1 reply about sprockets. 2 chains to 1 sprocket seems a bit crazy( of course dealers want to sell) id bet even most professionals aren't doing this maintenance soon enough (if ever)
Here’s the thing: it’s not so much the “wear” as it’s more of a “beating” that both sprocket AND chain take. The sprockets are beaten INWARDS while the chain is beaten OUTWARDS which is why it’s so very easy for the 2 parts of the “system” to become “out of time” with each other.
It’s a similar idea to a ring less piston inside of a bore: the more of the wear on EITHER component then the more “exaggerated” the wear will be on the other.
Make light bars again! I still have a stock of a few but they ain't gonna last forever!
Great video
Please get them to explain in more detail on the sharpening
I've been a Sawyer all my life I started in the logging Woods in the last 13 and a half from 55 now great video I love it
Very cool video buddy 👍
This was an awesome video!!!! Makes me love oregon products even more!!! Ive had a few of their chains where it seemed like they never went dull, lol those fuckers lasted for ever!!!
Bring back the old style adjustable raker gauge, best tool Oregon ever made. I am still using my grandfather’s from back in the 50s or 60s. It is worn badly but you just recalibrate it and move on!
The old Oregon “gauge-it”those were super cool I got one years back works great 👌
@@westcoastsaw1368 lm sure the patent has expired by now, I’m sure WCS branded ones would be hot sellers👍
Man I want so much more. That was fantastic
Excellent info thanks Gordy and guys
Super great video Gordy !!!!! If it went on for hour's I'd be glued 😅 One thing I'd like to see is a Speed cut Nano chain without the safety rakers. I Love the 1/4 pitch Panther chain for the top handles but the bars are junk so I thought I'd try the Nano but the only chain I've found available is home owner crap. This bar, chain and sprocket is only going to be bought by people in the business so why not have good chain available for it 🙂
I would love to work with you guys on making a faster chain
I think it would be cool if they brought the reduced weight bar back. I’d say there’s no room in the market but hell if I’d pay for a cannon lite bar, so there might be.
I’d love to know more on changing sprocket sizes for what advantages?
What questions might you have?
I will provide an example of what i think you are asking just to get the ball rolling. 3/8 7-tooth vs. 3/8 8-tooth.
When comparing a 3/8 7-tooth sprocket to a 3/8 8-tooth sprocket, there are important factors to consider:
Chain Speed:
Installing an 8-tooth sprocket increases chain speed compared to a 7-tooth sprocket. This can result in more efficient cutting, particularly in softwoods, as the faster chain speed can help clear chips more effectively.
Torque:
An 8-tooth sprocket reduces the available torque at the chain compared to a 7-tooth sprocket. This can be a disadvantage when cutting hardwoods or larger diameter logs where more cutters are engaged, where higher torque may be beneficial.
Application:
Wood Species: Different wood species require different cutting approaches. Generally speaking, softwoods benefit more from higher chain speeds, while hardwoods may require more torque to form the chip.
Cutting Mode:
The type of cutting (e.g., cross-cutting vs. ripping, etc.) influences the optimal sprocket choice.
Power Head Capability:
The power head's power output should match the demands of the sprocket and chain to balance torque and speed, avoiding engine overload.
Chain Preparation:
Proper chain maintenance and cutter geometries are crucial for optimizing cutting performance, regardless of the sprocket used. Having said that, playing with the depth of cut can be beneficial when changing the sprocket tooth count.
Personal Preference:
We must keep in mind that individual users have specific preferences based on their experience, comfort, and cutting needs. Therefore, there is rarely a one-size-fits-all solution.
Please consider all these factors when deciding the tooth count of the sprocket in your system, or better yet try it out for yourself.
Safe cutting out there!
Jake
would love a part 2!!!!
I would be interested on learning about chain tension on the bar according to their experts.
Great video Gordy , and the Oregon guys, what was the specific chain for the 500i that was referred to?
Regards J&S Tree Services Warrington UK
In my example, I didn't specify a particular chain. I chose a saw, specifically the 500i, to illustrate the issues that can arise when a cutting system isn't well paired with a power head. if you would like a recommendation, let me know your system, style, and what you are cutting.
Thanks for this.
My pleasure!
I can’t get enough how to square grind videos.
It would be really good to see a part two. Maybe a long form video.
Maybe touching on more tactical things I think it’s good that you got onto the sprocket maybe talk about bar maintenance and damage and what that might mean as far as the chain life.
Also, did you hear anything? Are they bringing back their lightweight bars?
Great topics! Thank you.
Love the talk! Keep them coming! Question- for us occasional saw users, where on the rpm curve is ideal for maximum chain life? Is it full throttle, light loading, or heavy loading, low RPM? Or in between? Also, will I cut a log faster by rocking the saw up and down, or keeping the saw level with the log?
Great questions, I tend to run my saws at full throttle applying enough force to hit the RPM/Power sweet spot for the saw. As far as life is concerned, if the bar chain and sprocket are in good condition one should have no trouble filling a chain to the end of its life with plenty of chassis life in reserve. Keeping the saw level with the log generally provides a more efficient and consistent cutting. However, rocking the saw can be useful in situations like clearing sawdust, and controlling the off-cut or tight quarters. This gets a bit more technical with grain orientation, but I'll save that for a different day.
Safe cutting out there!
Jake
ive been trying to tell people for decades that chains are individually sharped before the chain is assembled. this means after assembly the cutters are not all cutting the same. thats why after a couple sharpenings it starts to cut bettter
Thanks for the comment! Cutters become shorter and narrower as they are sharpened through life. As the cutters are filed back, they create a narrower cut in the wood, improving chain efficiency (Performance) up to around half the life of the cutters. In the factory here, we optimized the grind for the full kerf on a new chain, optimizing for a balance of performance, durability, and ease of sharpening right out of the box.
For sure show us again about all the stuff that they have to do with Oregon and tools I like to see it
Gordy, thanks for the informative video. I have learned a ton from you. I would really like to hear some discussion on milling and millng chains. I have been running oregon milling chains on my 592 through some maple. Deadly combination.
Are you running our 27R chains?
@@OTJake-ENGJake, why don’t you folks offer any “square grind” files and not just round and raker files. You sell pre-ground “square ground” chain, but no files for it. What gives!
Thanks Gordy ✊️
Good stuff
Great info! Thanks for sharing!
Great video, loved it❤
How does chain stretch from Sprocket wear afect cutting. Is it more than instability of the cutters?
Chain stretch and a worn drive sprocket impact cutting performance by causing misalignment and uneven engagement between the chain and drive sprocket. This leads to increased friction, vibration, and accelerated wear on the chain, bar, and sprocket. This shortens the service life of all cutting system components all while reducing control and precision in the cut. What I like to say is; A worn sprocket will damage every chain it comes in contact with.
What a video!! Keep them coming
Hey Gordy reading rim ware, spur ware for home owner, what driver changes does and
Doesn’t do for porformace, have then explain 42.4cc saw running .325- 66DL micro runs
So smooth and cuts so great(346xp), 242xp with same bar has harder time cutting over
2.5” limbs, Get white board out and show what people need to know.
Yep in Swedish and like red and Orange. I went out and checked I own piles of different
Oregon chain. I like the square ground but doesn’t last in MN. My favorite chain of all time
Was 3/8 (77) chain cutter was a great.
I don't have a whiteboard to illustrate, but I'll address your questions as best as I can.
A worn sprocket will immediately stretch a new chain and cause wear from the sprocket/spur.
Your 346XP has 3.6hp and the 242XP has 3.1hp, giving a 15.5% power difference. Keep in mind that there's always a power loss when spinning the chain, which varies with bar length, chain tension, lubrication, etc. For your 242XP, I recommend a shorter bar and milder depth gauges.
Safe cutting out there!
Jake
I would love to hear more from you guys about the role of the gullet in the process of wood chip formation, transportation and egression from the cutting kerf.
How is this affected by the dimensional relationships present in the cutter link and how exactly do you determine the chip drag coefficient.
Very interesting, thank you
Yes.....I want to know everything! Thanks
Gordy you look like Sling Blade character with the shaved head, lol all good though. Love your channel.
I LOVED THIS>
MORE PLEASE
this got a sub.
More to come!
Do chains have an optimal linear fpm? Some of the saw builders are pushing 15,000 rpm in the cut now. Why do some chains spec 25 degrees and others 30 degrees on the cutter? Why won't the 325 nano chain work with a standard 325 sprocket? Was it designed to work with a 6 tooth sprocket and regular 325 can't turn that tight?
Thanks for the questions! Everything in physics has its trade-offs, and chainsaw performance is no exception. Cutting efficiency varies based on chain type and material. High speeds and feed loads add stress, affecting system longevity. Optimal chain speed depends on available power and cutter geometry, which can vary based on the power head and chain preparation.
Let's dive into some numbers. Using an MS 500i, rated for a max RPM of 14,000 and 6.7 HP, I observed a max power of 6.22 HP at 9500 RPM on my Magtol Dynamometer. While the saw can reach 14,000 RPM unloaded, real work is done at lower RPMs.
Here's the math:
Chain pitch: 3/8in
Number of teeth: 7
Circumference: (3/8×2)×7=5.25in
Circumference in feet: 5.25/12=0.4375ft
Chain speed: 0.4375×9500=4156.25fpm
So in this example, even if the max RPM is 14,000, max power is achieved at 9500 RPM, giving a chain speed of 4156.25 feet per minute.
Great question on the Top Plate Angle (TPA) Geometries. There are some basics to keep in mind here as far as the physics of a chisel.
A steeper TPA like 30° can allow for faster cutting and produce smoother cuts. They are ideal for softwoods and general-purpose cutting. However (Trade-offs), they can be more sensitive, especially in harder or dirty wood. A user may notice a steeper TPA to be a bit less stable entering and while in the cut making it more difficult to hold a straight line.
A shallower TPA like 20° can provide an improved durability and is suitable for cutting hardwoods or dirty wood. They cut more slower compared to steeper angles but can be less sensitive. A user may notice a shallower TPA to be more stable both entering and while in the cut, making it easier to hold a straight line.
SpeedCut Nano (SPM)
Though the pitch .325 is the same SpeedCut Nano is a narrow kerf, low profile and high-efficiency chain. SpeedCut Nano is incompatible with conventional .325 components. It is the same concept as 3/8 "91" chains to 3/8 "70" chains. This new platform was required to achieve the performance and efficiency we targeted. Systems can be converted with a sprocket bar and chain.
Jake
@OTJake-ENG Thanks! On the chain speed , porters are close to getting max hp at 15,000 rpm. Thats why I was asking. Im getting 11,700 in the cut on my ported 372xp myself and Im not near the caliber porter as some of these people.
@@kraftzion I can only speak to what I have observed on the Dyno. To date I have only Dyno'ed stock saws. It would be very interesting to get a hot saw on the brake and analyze those metrics.
Gordi how do you get spools of chain and where do you get it from I ran out of 3/8 058 gauge chain and I cant afford to get a spool I'm just a 14 dude that likes vintage saws.
I can't seem to find a 32 inch 3/8 58 gauge round file skip chain from Oregon.
Oregon"PowerCut" 73EXJ in 104 Drive-Links would be what you are looking for. Safe cutting out there!
@@OTJake-ENG105 drivers, depending upon what saw AND bar specifically.
I would them to go into more detail on how to match the style of chain to your needs with all their different models of chain
All my chains are from Oregon.
Though was surprised they weren't actually in Oregon.
What caught my attention was about the drive sprocket wear in relation to a new chain.
Same goes for new brake pads to a worn-out brake disc.
We are in Oregon, Milwaukie is a small town outside of Portland Oregon.
Gordy I hate to ask lol, but I run mostly echo saws and their dawgs are terrible, do you have dawgs for these saws? N how bout milawaukee new battery top handle or 8” hatchet?
You’re not the only one on the quest. Of THAT I can assure you! 😢
Hey gordy great video as usual lol . Unrelated question can I still get some of the red jed walters tee shirts? ❤ thank you. New Jersey logman 👍🌲
Oregon has a great little book "Oregon Maintenance and Safety Manual" that has a lot of info like the 2 chains per sprocket rule. It's available for free on their website as a PDF. I have to say they made it sound like you can't get good performance out of a chain you file or grind yourself. Is that a little bit of marketing mixed in there?
One can get great performance grinding or filing. Following the recommended angles will get one very close to out-of-the-box efficiency, having said that some of the more sophisticated grinds are difficult or impossible to achieve in an assembled chain without damaging drive links and/or tie traps. Safe cutting out there.
@@OTJake-ENG Rodger that. My biggest problem is not nicking a tie-strap. I would like to see a discussion on depth gauge setting using a Carlton File-o-Plate / Westcoast Saw progressive style vs the non progressive style gauge.
@@JamesStuckey-n6hprogressive is the way to go. That’s because of the “rocking” motion of the way chain cuts. With a “static” style of gauge then for the more that the chain wears but with the same measured DOWN amount that static gauge gives you, the THICKER that chip will become. That thicker “chip” is harder to cut OR eject from the saw. Unless you have a VERY big engine (1000cc+) you’ll NEVER be able to to completely remove the depth gauges from saw chain.
Let’s see what the stock grind looks like and a little info on why the way it is
Still haven’t invested in a bench grinder , I think that’s what I am missing to making efficient chains, who’s got the best grinder for around a thousand $?
At home, I use an Oregon 620-120 at work I use Silvey grinders. are you round or square grinding?
@@OTJake-ENG would be a COOL vid to see you--a PRO--use your grinder...and give pointers would help your sales