Turn your 3D Printer into a Vinyl Cutter - Amazing Quality!!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ม.ค. 2022
- Here is the work I have done to turn my 3D Printer into a vinyl cutter.
I hope to be able cut thicker materials as I experiment.
All parts needed are linked below.
The bracket is a re-mix and designed for my Geeetech A20T but should fit the other "A" machines I believe.
Be careful when adjusting your Z off-set so as not to damage anything.
My cura profile (for 4.13.0) is available on Thingyverse along with the bracket itself.
My machine settings are:
start g-code:
G28
G29
M163 S0 P0
M163 S1 P0
M163 S2 P0
end g-code:
G0 Z10
G91
G1 E-1
G0 X0 Y200
M104 S0
G90
G92 E0
M140 S0
M84
M104 S0
M140 S0
M84
nozzle offsets
X -35.0
Y -28.0
Please remember to Like and Subscribe
Help support me with more projects: paypal.me/modellermark2
Bracket, Spring and Cura Profile: www.thingiverse.com/thing:522...
If you want to buy the cutter you can find it here:
www.banggood.com/custlink/33m...
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AVScGx
The Geeetech Printers are available here:
Geeetech A10T s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AokoJp
Geeetech A20 s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A9Fh27
Geeetech A20M s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_As7pF9
Geeetech A20T s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9wllIb
Geeetech A30M s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ALUHK3
Geeetech A30T s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9ipMhN
Geeetech A10T www.banggood.com/custlink/KGD...
Geeetech A20 www.banggood.com/custlink/Gvv...
Geeetech A20M www.banggood.com/custlink/K3m...
Geeetech A20T www.banggood.com/custlink/vDG...
Geeetech A30M www.banggood.com/custlink/mKv...
Geeetech A30T www.banggood.com/custlink/DKm...
Cutting Mats: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...
Other things of interest that I have covered recently:
OMPHobby M2V2:
Flish RC Store is here: www.aliexpress.com/store/1526...
Airwolf Version: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Other places to get the OMP M2 V2 and other OMP Helicopters
www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Single Battery: www.banggood.com/custlink/33K...
Explore Version: www.banggood.com/custlink/mDm...
M1 : www.banggood.com/custlink/D3m...
Eachine EX4 work:
Ardupilot Discussion - all of the picures and descriptions plus I will upload my Mssion planner parameters to it:
discuss.ardupilot.org/t/c-fly...
RCGroups also has lots of the information and again I will upload my mission planner parameters:
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...
Thingyverse links:
Gimbal Cover:www.thingiverse.com/thing:462...
Compass Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:496...
Battery Box: www.thingiverse.com/thing:496...
USB leads and Micro USB board:
Set of leads: www.aliexpress.com/item/40005...
USB Board: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_99bJ3i
Eachine EX4: www.banggood.com/custlink/mKG...
Eachine EX4 with 2 Batteries: www.banggood.com/custlink/mG3...
JJRC X12: www.banggood.com/custlink/DDv...
The New CFly Faith 2: www.banggood.com/custlink/mm3...
Other great drones:
Banggood:
FIMI X8 2020 : www.banggood.com/custlink/KDm...
FIMI X8 2020 With 2 batteries: www.banggood.com/custlink/vKD...
Fimi X8 Mini: www.banggood.com/custlink/33K...
Hubasn Zino Mini: www.banggood.com/custlink/G3K...
AliExpress:
Fimi X8 2020: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ACE8Qj
NEW Fimi X8 Mini: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9yKbtz
Fimi A3: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AE9pux
Remember to Like and Subscribe - Thanks.
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Hi there, great video. I just added the same thing to my ender 3. A little tip... Adjust the top screw in part of the cutter and tighten with the brass knob so that the tip of the blade is protruding just enough below the nozzle of the holder to only cut the vinyl and not the backing paper. We're talking micrometers here. Test it by hand on a scrap piece of vinyl. Once set leave it at that. Do everything else the same except set the z level so that the nozzle touches the vinyl and the spring in your mount is depressed about 1-2mm. You'll find that you'll get a nicer cut that doesn't touch the backing and never cuts your matt and you can even skip the bed leveling. This is called a "kiss-cut" in the industry and is what all proper vinyl plotters do, including the cricut.
great great great video there Sir!!
Thanks you so much for saying that. I am glad you enjoyed and hope it works for you. Thanks for watching and the feedback.👍
Excellent! Thanks for sharing ❤
You are welcome .. your thanks make it all worthwhile 👍
Thank you very much! One of the best review on the topic. It's amusing that it appears among RC models though. Instructive and helpful as well. God bless you.
Thanks for the feedback - makes it worth while knowing it has helped someone. Don't forget to Like, Subscribe and hit the bell and tell others about my channel 👍😊
I just bought an Ender 5 Pro and I am learning the ropes. I just came across your post on RCGroups and had to check it out! I really impressed at what you have done! It's good enough for me right now to know that this can be done! I am building my first 3D printed R/C sailplane and it would be awesome to be able to dress them up with cool graphics! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
Cheers!
Lyle
Thanks for the feedback Lyle - and have fun with your Ender 5 Pro ... 3D printing is very addictive you know 😂 You may find that the bracket I remixed mine from, which was for a Creality, may be OK on your Ender 5 ... either way now that you have a 3D Printer learn to use something like Tinkercad so that you can adapt things and design things for yourself. Once you have a suitable bracket then my Cura profile should help you - the main thing is adjusting the X and Y offsets so that your cut shows in Cura where your blade actually is and the Z off-set to get a nice cut that doesn't dig into the cutting mat. The beauty is that you can pop the blade out along with the spring, change the Z offset and go back to 3D printing in a few moments. Have fun and thanks again. 👍 - oh, and of course don't forget to Like and Subscribe 😂
@@modellermark2, thanks so much for your feedback! I really underestimated how complex 3D printing can be, especially when you run into problems. But there's joy in resolving issues and making good quality prints. Am I out of line in assuming if you can cut vinyl with this set up, you should also be able to cut thin balsa? If so, that would open up a another whole avenue for me.....basically cutting out ribs and other parts for a sailplane.
Cheers!
Lyle
@@lylejeakins Lyle - that was my thoughts too that I could cut depron and balsa with it. Looking at the cricut itself it cuts up to 2.4mm wood and usually takes 4 passes to do it. So I would think a 3mm balsa limit and then set a small layer height in Cura with 4 times that layer height as the height of the object you print. That will make it do 4 passes. 3D printers obviously aren't designed to put downwards pressure on the Z axis so it would all be experimental and I was wondering if my laser which has a Z axis and can be used for CNC cutting as well as laser work may be more suitable for balsa and depron. I am yet to try it but if doing 4 or more passes it may be OK - all at your own risk of course 😊 Let me know how you get on ... if I try it first I will feedback to you or do a short video of the result, Mark
Great video! Thanks
Thanks - glad you enjoyed it and hope it has been useful - worked better than I could have hoped for. Mark
@@modellermark2 It took a little bit of tweaking and changing print speeds, but I'm getting good quality cuts now. I had to print a custom bracket for my CR10.
@@bhyre1 Good stuff - the Z offset is the one to make things really neat so that it doesn't cut into the sticky cricut board - great that you are getting nice cuts. 👍
Great information, thank you for this video. Looks like thingiverse took down your bracket and profile.
Looks all OK now - they were having issues yesterday too so I think it is Thingyverse having web site issues. Glad it has been useful, thanks for the feedback 👍
Outstanding! I've been messing around with adapting my FL SunQQ pro Delta Printer to use as both a plotter and a vinyl cutter. It's a different setup than your printer, of course.
#1 where do I find the LINK to the Thingiverse items, please?
#2 where do I find the LINK to the Cura Profile?
My biggest issue so far, when using the 3D/P as a plotter, is that it wants to trace the outline, but, it then fills the inside of the letter with a thousand lines. If I could get it to just STOP at the outline, I'd be in great shape. Perhaps your Cura profile does that by the line-height and the lack of infill??? I'm 82 and have been 3D printing for a couple of years. The Plotter/Vinyl cutter is new territory, of course. Thanks again for all that you have done here. R
So glad it has been of use. Everything you need is on Thingyverse in the link listed in the descrition www.thingiverse.com/thing:5226111 - the 3D print stl's and Cura Profile are available to download from there. Enjoy - remember to like and subscribe 👍😊
@@modellermark2 Thank You. Since I have a different printer (and I have not messed around with gcodes on my own...before now.), I presume I will look through the gcode and make the necessary changes in my own printer's profile. Were there any special changes other than speed, z-hop choice, etc?
@@ytrichg99 Most of the changes are included in the Cura profile - the gcode changes are also in the machine settings in Cura so you should be able to do everything for your printer by following the video and just adjust settings according to you printer sizes, blade offset etc. but all done from within Cura. Just test it on some scrap or paper first before comitting your vinyl to the blade.
@@modellermark2 Hate to bother you again. I made all of the changes to the gcode per the Thingiverse file. But, the printer still wants to fill in the middle of all of the letters. I couldn't find the exact font that you used from Tinkercad, so, perhaps that might help. Somehow, your cutter only follows the outline of the letter. Mine does that first, but then goes back and tries to run line and line and line gain to fill in the middle? Any thoughts? thanks again.
@@ytrichg99 If my profile doesn't work for you just make sure you set the infill to 0% and have just single line everywhere. Also make sure the Wording in tinkercad i set to 0.4mm high and match that to your settings in Cura. Just work through all of your setting so that you end up with just a single first line, no infill, no supports etc.
The thingiverse link still gives a 404 error I was wondering if you could repost the profile. This looks like a great vinyl cutter solution and I would love to use it!
Try now - something odd had happened with Thingyverse there .... listed tiwce but one is empty ... hopefully the link works now. Mark
would the profile work in latest cura slicer, I am still learning, this looks interesting, would like to try it
I have a cr6 se,
It should be fine - let me know if there is an issue and I will upload a newer one to Thingyverse as soon as I can - a big thank you for your support too ❤👍. Just be careful with the Z Axis setting to make sure you don't do any damage to your bed ...but have fun and I hope it all goes well for you.
@@modellermark2 thank you for a prompt response, it seems the quality type, fast is not compatible with my cr20 creality printer , i have tried setting up a new printer but no joy, had to remodel the mount, so wandering what is the knife position in relation to the auto leveller or hot end , I am guessing different systems use different components so the screws would be in different places, thank you
@@user-fh9mc6cm2t OK - I think you can take a copy of the profile you use for 3D printing and then just modify that, working through my video and notes on here and Thingyverse to just setup the bits needed for cutting. The offset from your nozzle to the blade you can just measure with a rule and set that in your new profile. Keep at it - it should be possible with any printer. The tip from gweedsnz below is handy too setting the blade right up in the holder. Let me know how far you get and which bit you get stuck at.
@@modellermark2 Thought you might like to know I have got it working, had to redesign the mount and figure out the z axis but all good. Thank you
@@user-fh9mc6cm2t Fantastic! Glad you got there - do share the redesigned mount on Thingyverse as a remix (or new design) so that others with your machine can do it too. Brilliant news - thanks for letting me know 👍
We can't hear you whenever you're filming close to your printer, but very nice content. I have an ender 3 and it's been on my mind for quite some time
Sorry - I am progressing my video editing skills and do try to keep sound tracks on the same level when I can these days. Hope you got the information eeded anyway and thanks for watching. Don't forget to like, subscribe and hit that bell! 👍
@@modellermark2 yeah making videos is hard work, and the audio is at least as hard as the video to get right. Most pros record sound separately from the video, i think precisely because while you always hear yourself, in less than ideal conditions, the camera doesn't :)