Getting the Right Flow: Ultimaker Cura 5 Flow Rate Settings
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2024
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In this video, I'm going to show you how to get the proper flow rate in Ultimaker Cura, and talk about all the flow settings you need to know once you have your flow rate.
First, let me explain what flow is and show you some printed examples of flow. Then, I'll discuss E-Steps and the two methods for finding flow. We'll set up tests and go through Method 1: Flow Tower, where I'll show you how to read a flow tower and what to look out for.
After that, we'll move on to Method 2: Accurate Flow, where I'll demonstrate how to measure the cube, do the math, and understand line width. We'll then use this knowledge to calculate a new flow rate.
Next, we'll dive into the flow settings and talk about wall flow settings, top/bottom flow settings, skirt brim flow settings, initial layer flow settings, and how to deal with elephant's foot. I'll also go over five reasons why good flow is important and the settings I check before every print.
And of course, we can't forget the bloopers at the end! So, stay tuned until the end to see some of my hilarious mistakes.
Overall, if you're looking to improve your 3D printing skills, learning about flow rate and flow settings is a crucial step. So, let's get started!
Calipers: amzn.to/3OA5aSP
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00:00 - Introduction
00:19 - DON’T (please)
00:42 - What is Flow
01:37 - Printed Examples of Flow
04:45 - E-Steps
05:49 - 2 Methods for Finding Flow
06:25 - Setting up Tests
07:27 - Method 1: Flow Tower
08:48 - I KNOW…
09:23 - Reading a Flow Tower
12:45 - Nice..but…
13:18 - THANK YOU!
14:05 - Method 2: Accurate Flow
16:38 - Measuring the Cube
19:30 - Doing the Math
20:14 - Understanding Line Width
21:24 - Back to Math
22:10 - New Flow Rate
24:18 - Flow Settings
25:07 - Wall Flow Settings
26:16 - Top/Bottom Flow Settings
26:32 - Skirt Brim Flow Settings
28:28 - Initial Layer Flow Settings
29:27 - Elephants Foot
30:01 - 5 Reasons for Good Flow
34:29 - Settings I Check
34:80 - BLOOPERS - บันเทิง
You definitely have one of the most informative channels on TH-cam. Thank you for all the great content!
Your very welcome!
Great video, well explained. I just have one remark about the 100% precision of the second method. I'd like to draw your attention to how measuring tools, including calipers work.
There are two factors to consider when using them : resolution vs precision.
The resolution of a tool tells you how many increments your tool has. Say you calipers measure down to 0,01mm. Well you may be measuring a 20x20mm cube, and you calipers can read it as 20.00mm.
But your tool/calipers are only PRECISE to 0.02mm.
Well that means if you measure 20.00mm, then it could be 20.02 or 19.98mm.
Another common value is a resolution of 0.02mm, but with precision of 0.04mm. Again, you'd be think you'd be measuring 20.04mm and correcting for that when in fact your measure was spot on at 20.00mm.
So sure, calipers are a good tool, but don't rely on them too heavily. That value is true for good quality tools, such as Mitutoyo, but most people buy cheap calipers that may have a precision less than that even. If you want better precision, you'd need a micrometer, which is designed to measure very small values with a good precision.
You can refer to Mitutoyo's table for reference : www.mitutoyo.com/webfoo/wp-content/uploads/15003A.pdf or search for precision vs resolution calipers on google.
Cheers for the video though. Keep up the good work.
Ive had a little experience with 3D printers, so I just purchased a FLSUN SR and love it. But it is by far a plug and play printer. I came across your videos and you have helped me so much getting the most out of my printer.
Thank you, keep up the amazing work..
This series is AMAZING. I love how detailed you get on explaining everything. I just started 3D printing this week and immediately started issues when I tried to change anything in the settings. Printing a temp tower now and a flow tower next! I hope you're going to continue the series with a video on Supports! Thanks so much for the videos and the help!
I'm so glad you like the series. It was a lot of work and your comment means a lot. There is definitely a huge learning curve when getting started. The last video of the series comes out Tuesday. I'm not covering supports due to I did a support series last year that is still accurate due to Cura didn't change much from Cura 4 to Cura 5. Here is the playlist just skip to the support videos. Cause I also went over some of the things i do in this series. You can see it here: th-cam.com/video/ZgP7yGr20o4/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck with your printing. Feel free to join the Discord group. its a great place if you have issues lots of people that are knowledgeable that are willing to help. Plus you can just ask me there too!
@@ItsMeaDMaDe Oh awesome! Thanks again!
Currently I’m printing at .002in so a thin hair discrepancy on my Ender3v2 and after watching this I’m definitely going to tweak some settings and see how much more accurate I can become. Thank you for the amazing advice though out this whole video. Definitely wish I found you sooner as I just came across you yesterday. I’ve already learned so much more about fine tuned settings it’s astonishing.
Woah! .002?!? That is crazy thin. I’ve never seen a print with that thin of a layer height. Didn’t know the Enders could do that.
Thank you for another GREAT educational video. After finding your channel I've learned a lot. Thank you again.
Andy you are so welcome I’m truly glad I can help you!
Incredible video my friend, very helpful tips. You really are a great teacher and explain things very well.
This video was EXTREMELY WELL DONE! Very informative and easy to follow. Thank you so much! You totally helped me! I had to take my esteps from 93.0 to 101.6!!!!!
Using my Sonic Pad/Ender 3 S1 Pro and your video I was able to make a perfect cube in 4m 4s. I think I can get it to half that time with a few tweaks...thank you so much for this info! It would be amazing if you had a Sonic Pad and made videos about it. Your way of explaining things just makes logical sense and that's what I need to be able to understand things lol. Thank you!
Loving your videos!!! Watching all of them right now
That’s awesome! I hope they help you!
hey, im just staring so pretty green to all that stuff let me tell you that you nailed it for me anymay, keep up the great video. thanks
Love your channel, As of this time I am not a 3D printer!!!! But this time 7:26 pm tomorrow I will have a new Sovol Sv-05 And I can start pulling out what little hair I have left.....But at 81 years old I think it's time to try something new.......Be well and be safe..Now back to watching all the rest of your vids..............🦜
I know the thread is a couple months old but it is full of great information and delivered with great detail
Thanks so much I’m glad you liked it!
Cube all the way. Thank you!
Dude you are a scientist! Love the presentation and passion and humour you bring to the table! Yours videos are informative, in depth and most of all interesting to watch. You have turned a topic that would make most fall asleep of their chairs in the fetal position :).... and turn on the lights and action and brought 3d printing and all its pitfalls to the forefront of problem solving.
I have not seen another you tuber put so much thought and organisation into every single tuning and problematic Cura and printing in general. you need to change your name to "THE CRAZY 3D PRINT SCIENTIST GUY" Well done!
Ha ha ha. You almost made me fall out of my chair. Best comment ever. Thank you for the new title. It’s a complex topic due to having so many tangents. This series took a ton of work. Comments like this made it worth it. Thanks again!
very good explanation, perfect pronunciation for those who are not native English speakers.
Good stuff here! Thanks, again, Chris!
Thanks a lot!!
I took a picture of a flat printed surface. Wich is supposed to to be completely closed. And In Illustrator I measured the relative width of the lines and gaps, find the percentage wich would be the correct width and transfered the value to cura. Worked!
Thanks for this video it help my 3d printer print like a charm thank you so much
Man! You're amazing. Your explanations are great! Keep it up!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it
hi im new to 3d printing world and im lucky to find your videos! this is one of the best flow wideo i ever see.. and im not one of those who dont want to do a test i also like perfect prints.. for start i buy 4KG of filament just to test and learn.. my friends tell me im crayz and i alredy know it.. tnx a lot!
🤣😂 tests are good but that’s a lot. Glad these vids are helping!
Great video and info. I could resolved a problem with a "Whistle model" that required a precise measurement. Thanks
Thanks a lot, this tutorial helped me with the Flow Rate in AnyCubic Kobra 2. It was too high from the factory :)
thank you !!!great video i learned so much!!!
very well put together video! helped me understand very much
thanks for all the awesome vids. love it
No problem hope they helped!
AWESOME VIDEO!! Going to watch the other videos now, but does flow rate change when you change the speed of the print?
THis is really useful
Ive done the Tower flow test and like yours is around 100 - 105 (need to gey a decent magnifying glass
the cube on both machines is so close to 400 its ok
Awesome way to daily in my printer. Thanks
Great Vodeo. Very helpfull and great advice. If you can spare some time and give some advice. I'm printing a disc for a motor and when finshed and placed on a flat surface one side is fine, when turning the disc over there is a wobble. any advice to fix this?
Did the calibration cube and got flow spot on. I think my z offset needs a slight adjustment due to not sticking to the bed the best.
Thank you for such a great video series. I have been following along and have learned a lot! I'm not sure where to ask this question: I've adjust my flow rate to get a good 20mmx20mm cube in the x and y direction, however my z measurement is always greater than 20mm. Any quick recommendations on what to look at?
👍👏💯😎Great Info!!! Well Done!!!! Thanks Chris!!!
Talking about flow - your moustache ❤
😁
You are the best one .THXXXX
Thanks for this wonderful channel. I'm a newbie. Got my printer 2 days ago. Leveled the bed, and set the extruder eSteps. Then did a flow calibration. It was too high. Dialed it back (was supposed to be 0.8mm because I used 2 lines per wall), it's now 0.81mm for 3 walls which I thought was fine. But the 4th wall is 0.94. WTF?? But the interior surface of that wall is nasty. All sorts of stringing. So I think it's a retraction problem and not a flow problem (since 3 walls were perfect). If you have any insight, I'd love to hear it, since I have about 36 hours of experience. THANKS AGAIN !!
YES, great video well done. not done watching yet but I'm here to find out if I use super quality... do I need to manually set the flow to less? thanks so much for the vids
For those that don't have a caliper you can increase the bottom layers to a big number and pause the print and adjust the flow with each layer until you don't see gaps or protrusions between the lines.
Now you need a section on mastering supports! I do a lot of very large prints with 0.8 nozzles and I’ve been testing and tweaking a lot of the Tree Support settings. Looking forward to more tutorials!
Hi Chris, first I wanna say how much I appreciate your videos. You explain things so well and I like that you provide good examples of prints to help me understand how all of these settings work together. I have a request if you are looking for ideas. I am a relatively new and I wanted to try those cool interesting filaments right away. But they are finicky and I just cant seem to find much on how to resolve the issues specifically encountered with finicky filaments like matte, wood, glow, glitter, etc. Specifically mattes with multiple colors just wont work for me but single color mattes are fine (?!). Not very many guide creators cater to people printing art and models and so they dont discuss these aesthetic filaments beyond a cursory note. But I really want to use them. Can you help a gal out?!
Thank you veru much for the great videos! ❤I have a question is I may:
I have done flow calibrations and linear advance (didnt help much), and I still get fat corner instead of very sharp ones. Can you point me to any of you gideos that might help me with this issue?
Runing a bet slinger on Marlin. Thanks!
Thank you
Your welcome hope it helped
Great video - awesome to be able to calculate flow rate based on wall width. I have a potentially stupid question here ; if the nozzle is .4mm, why would you want a .42 mm wall width? Does this have to do with squish?
awesome thanks man
👍
Trying to tune my new np4 new to 3d printing. Going to be Following all your cura tutorials. You know when they’ll drop a profile for the updated version of cura for the Neptune 4 pro? Using the elegoo version of cura that comes with the printer. But it doesn’t have all the new functions that the updated version of cura got.
Most of us can't use wall lines thickness to determine flow, because many printers have z-wobble. meaning the walls won't be stacked exactly over each other. When measuring resulting in thicker walls that they are. This way we tune for under extrusion.
Your videos are fantastic for noobie to 3d printing. I got my Ender 3 v3 SE weekend (21/10/2023) and now working through your videos to improve the printers accuracy. On this video one thing im struggling is getting accurate measurement from the Caliper I have. Not sure if way im using it or flex in print or just not a good Caliper. What some Caliper makes of quality/accurate calipers in your years of experience do you recommend?
Was wondering how do you correct prints that just barely came out right and you need to do some call fudging. I made a stand for my keyboard that holds it up as the feet broke off. It has two pin holders and a slot for my phone to charge. I have two phone with different covers one fits the other was tight a used a drummer on it and even at slow rate it melted the plastic make a mess. Did a lot of cutting to get it to fit but it look bad. Thanks for the help.
Love your videos lots of detail!! Makes all the difference.. I do have a couple of questions though.. First off do you have to change the flow with every different tip you use? Or is this one of those once you figure it out your all set? also i go back and fourth between a 1.0 for large quick i just want my part kind of thing.. And 5.0 when quality is more important.. when you printed your cube you got .44 and you were saying .42 was the sweet spot... I think i understand the rest of the math but for example my cube printed exactly 20 x 20 and 1.1 for the sides i m unsure if i got my flow set right cause with the math mine would be set @ 95% as well.. i do not seam to see any difference really in my print. i figured it would be much more noticeable with a 1.0 nozzle.. maybe i m missing something i overlooked in your video i watched it like 20 times... lol still kind of a noob sorry
Great vids I've been learning alot! Quick question. I'm not even getting a clean looking tower to be able to judge. I'm getting a sea weed look during print on the back, it's strange. I've got an Ender 5 Plus with an 0.6 nozzle printing at the Speed you recommended. The Filament is PLA+ with a hot bed of 80 degrees and the Nozzle temp at 211. Could you give me some advice on what I might be doing wrong? I appreciated it.
Thanks again for another awesome video - you are an awesome teacher!
So, with the tests you did, are we likely to get different results if we change nozzle temp and/or print speed?
Also, if I print with PLA and PETG, I will need to check this for each type because the numbers will likely be different. But do you tend to find much difference in flow between different PLA manufacturers?
Thanks glad you like the video. When it comes to pla I do find slight differences not much.
Personal Self Notes:
- low flow: gaps, holes, thin lines, poor bonding and weak print 2:12 we can see the layer underneath
- high flow: over Extrusion or those blobs and zits and get really rough finishes, awful corners 3:57 & Stringing (9:49)
- when it comes to our line width we don't want exactly what we're telling, lines are not squares butted up against each other they're rounded Corners because we're smooshing plastic those two rounded Corners just barely touching we're not going to get that good of a bond in between our walls so we want it to be just a little bit bigger that way those sides will actually bond together really well ( 0.41 or a 0.42 )
When measuring with the calipers, how much force do you use when squeezing the tool against the walls? Should I just let it touch or should I apply a little bit of squeeze? Thanks for the great video!
Would you run a temp tower first or a flow tower? I would imagine temp dictates a lot here as well.
Excellent video. Will you have one on retraction settings in cura?
Yup! That will probably be next week.
do you have a video on level the build plate? need it for ender 3 vs 2
Thank you VERY MUCH for this video! It is really helpful and clear. I couldn't find the links to the calipers you mentioned in 17:04 though, did I miss them?
Sorry you didn’t miss them I forgot to put it in the description. I just put it in there for you anything like the ones linked in the description would work.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe thanks again! I’ll get one of those! 👍🏻😊
So on the temp tower it seems that the temp "gauge" stays at my regular 200°. Am I missing something? Shouldn't it change on the screen? The tower looks the same from bottom to the top
great video, new suscriber here.
one question, do i have to do this with every filament? ex: red creality pla, blue creality pla, the again red creality pla, silk blue pla and so on?
Looking for some help... I am getting essentially FLAWLESS first layer prints from simple boxs that I am printing for some boardgame pieces but when it starts printing the walls I get these seams of under extrusion. I have re-set my cura seetings back to the basics and I am still getting them.. Slowed the print down to 40mms and still having issues. Eliminated thin walls, ironing, pushed my flow rate up to 92.5%. I almost think the issue is not software buy filament feed motor but why would my bottom layers come out so exceptional but only the walls are failing?
Thanks for the great video. I've never had it explained they way you have where I could understand what you're suppose to do. I have a question though... I have corrected my E-Steps which were way off (now dead on). I have also used the box print to calibrate my flow rate. I have my walls down to .42, but the total width of the box is 20.32 which I think should be closer to 20.00. However, the box height is dead on at 20mm. What should I adjust to get the overall width of the box closer to 20mm? Right now my overall flows are 93%. I had them at 94%, but the widths were off. Any guidance would be appreciated.
i get some weird results where the cube woul;d either be too tall or too short, vut the other mesurements would be perfectly 20.00
all i can say is that for some reason, the z offset afects my dimentions. like i can have the bed perfectly leveled and have a good first layer, but if the z offset is set realy low, then the cube will come out looking rather short or squished. but if you make the offset be higher, then the model will get taller. i myself dont know why it does this but its super anoying when you finaly get a good layer height only to see that you have to re adjust the bed leveling by bringing it up higher or lower to change the offset. for some reason, when i printed the default rabbit from my ender 3 s1 pro stock files, and have my offset realy low, i get those zits or squished look. i at times like calling the pattern on the skin "basket weaving" because that what the bumpy patern looks like
I have a question about wall thickness. What do you do to correct a problem when you have different thickness for your walls?
because of how cura handle calculation you were gonna look for 0.44mm on one single wall. you initial cube flow were right.
Great video. I did the cube test and I'm at 93%. What's next if one side of the cube is on 20mm and the other measurement is 20.19mm?
Weird question.. if i have different speed settings and adjusting depending on the print im doing. Do i have to adjust the flow, e-steps etc also?
Does speed impact the flow enough to f stuff up?
here is an update. i tried the flow tower test and im quite confused. every block looks exactly the same with no difference. and when i switched the color scheme from layer type veiw to flow, it doesnt seem to change at all. the flow rate on every block looks the same. i also tried out the speed tower and its all one solid color, as in the speed doesnt change at all as it prints. is there something here im missing?
To my understanding Cura does a different flow math than Slic3r, e.g. PrusaSlicer. A 0.44 width in Slic3r behaves as 0.4 in Cura.
I finally found Waldo!
This is exactly what i need. When printing the default bunny from the stock printer files, they look fine. But when i try to print a slug, it looks reaky bad. It cant print overhangs very well. I like calling this "basket weaving" because some of the rough bumby edgees look like a basket weave
This dudes mustache kills me. Beyond me someone would have that everyday and put it on the internet.
is the speed set at 50 necessary? or can u set to 180 for instance ..or better yet is 50 what my speed should be set to anyways because it was at 180
I’m new to printing and I’m trying to do a calibration on my machine and the marketplace I can’t find auto towers or cubes
Doesn't these test work only on the specific roll of filament your using?
All Filaments are not the same.
So I would have yo run this test with every new spool used?
Yes, it's the same with calibrating e-steps with filament. You're tuning for that filament type/brand/batch.
Do I have to change the speed to 50? I have a kobra 2 plus from Anycubic and cura profile is set to 180.0 probably because it’s klipper?
Can you please help me fix the z banding I'm getting on every print on my elegoo neptune 4 pro? It's driving me crazy!
i recently went with a direct drive on my ender3 and now i have to check my retraction everytime before i send the file off how do i tell cura thats the new setting for my printer
I have a question someone might be able to answer. I printed out a cube like shown and only one side is 0.02 smaller than the other three side. Is that a problem or is nothing to worry about?
Question I’m new to this 3D print game som I’m noticing my print started acting up after months of printing fine all of a sudden , my finally print was started to come out all fuzzy I’m using Cura with same setup infill at 100 % and tree supports .Should I just reset my Endr 3 printer as well maybe that the issue
What were the calipers you found to be best for the best price?
These are a pretty good set. You want to find ones that the parts are metal no plastic
amzn.to/3MIwyMe
So temp tower, then flow test?
it's weird after all calculations I've got 89% flow, printed anotehr topless cube and got .4 on the wall thickness and not .42, any suggestions why? =O
I did this for overture rock PLA last night and every level was bad. I'm leaning toward temp, thinking I had it at 195 but wanted to hear from anyone on ideas.
The man with the mustache makes some good points 😂
🤣😂🤣 I’m glad he does!!
I don't have "flow" as a setting in Cura. It is giving me an error that says "this setting has been hidden by the value of gcode flavor"
My printer's so screwed up right now I can't even print out a calibration cube it just fades out for lack of a better term it starts off great and then it's like it slowly runs out of filament
as i haven't done my flow rate for maybe a couple of years and having just found this video i thought i would check it? why not i run an arbitrary figure from a flow test from ages ago of 96% which still seems to work well. so test 1 @100% average .435. 19.95mm x 19.93mm. recalculated flow average was now .44 1997 x 19.91. recalculated flow was now giving 44.25 and 19.90x 19.89.. then i noticed the outer wall flow doesn't always match the rest of the flows. i tried a random flow of 93.5 that's when i noticed outer wall flow was still at 95. the only discernible difference i can find is that dimensional accuracy is suffering
That’s interesting there are some other settings to possibly help with outer walls. You might want to check out my wall settings video in this series.
Why does cura tell me it has No Flow Attribute?
32:07 "You are not gonna be getting it at that exact size, you're gonna have to change other settings to compensate for that, and you shouldn't have to."
Plastic shrinkage alone makes this statement invalid. You always have to compensate, 3d printers are not precision instruments, everything from plastic shrinkage to the +- tolerance in the diameter of the filament, pigments, additives, etc., will always require you to compensate.
You didn't say to set the flow to 100% when you were setting the parameters. Other than that good job!!
That entire Tower is printed in all of the same flow. You need to write a script and tell it what you want it to do and what layers to change at.
Love the videos but this is the second time you have said that 0,6% is less then 0,5%, 6g is 0,6% of 1 kg
Again to set your Skirt/Brim it needs turning on in Build Plate Adhesion
Nice video thanks, but no matter what I change, it's always the same, even the stringing video, same thing, from 2 to 8 retraction, always stringing
Dude, you do realize that the flow tower by itself is nothing???? It only generates the shape of the tower. You have to go into the post processing and trigger the post-slice G-code generator to actually modify the flow rate. By the time you get to 85%, the bridge will have ragged gaps in it. So your flow tower didn't do its job at all.
According to the creator of the Autotowers this isn’t necessary:
“There is no need to add a post-processing script after creating the tower. The post-processing is automatically done for you!”
Every time I get my walls exactly 0.4mm, I underextrude everywhere else.
Still not shaved? Noone told you to do so? 😔 😆 Atleast go grow a real beard xD Anyway, love your content about settings 👌 thanks to you i figured out few things, so lvl up 🥳
The stash is here to stay for a while 😆😂
Glad the videos are helping you out.
such a weird thing to care about especially involving another man and not yourself, mad weird.
Just beat in mind that your calipers are probably only accurate to 0.02mm so I wouldnt bother chase anything smaller than that.
Great video, but you're not going to 'break' a stepper motor unless you've been stupid and set it to the 'rated' current and overheat it very badly. Now all that said you might destroy the extruder gears, etc. Stepper, nahhh. Maybe shorten the life of the bearings, nahhh. Nema 14, maybe.
Dude, lose the curly mustache!
My habit is to overextrude the very first layer (140% or so) then make the flow for the rest of the layers 100% (Obviously I have properly adjusted e-steps). This is because I want the smoothest first layer for my prints and good bed adhesion. Very interested in this video, as I am in all videos that help me fine-tune my prints further.
EDIT : I just calculated the extra area of a square instead of a circle, and it's 1.27. Obviously, we are talking about a flattened oval with a width of 0.4 and a height of 0.2. This can be thought of as a central square with two halves of a circle on either end, so we halve the difference between 1 and the multiplier for a circle, we get 1.135. This is the flow multiplier to fill out a 0.4x0.2mm rectangle. Obviously, again, we lay down lines in order and not in-between existing lines, so we should halve that multiplier once more to stop overflow on the side that doesn't already have a line laid down. This gives us a multiplier of 1.07, so to get perfect 100% extrusion with no side flow (perfect 0.4mm lines), you should set your extrusion to 93.4%, 1.65% different to your measured value which is far smaller than the accuracy of your calipers...
I suspect the printer manufacturers and slicer makers have already done these calculations and decided to build in a multiplier of 1.07 into their extrusion results so that the user who just expects 'switch it on, and it works' will get good layer adhesion and part quality.
Knowing this, I shall be setting my initial layer flow to 120% and my wall flow to 93.4% for a couple of test prints to see the quality and strength.