Dropped my rear subframe and I was staring at ebrake cable just hanging lmao thanks and sending love to all the e46 fanatics finally giving their car the tlc the older owners never gave
Cheers Han! I’m working on my e86 Z4M which shares the same rear axle. I’m removing the rear subframe (with the help of your videos) but got stuck with the park brake cables. This has helped loads! 👍👍
Maaaaan, Thanks so much for making this video. Ive had a new left side cable sitting in the trunk of my 330i since 2011. 2022 will be the year I complete that project thanks to you. Lol. Thanks a million once again and have a nice and productive week Han.
Excellent video Han. Love how you make sure to have good camera angles and then edit so that we have a clear understanding of exactly how the job is done. I need this one to compliment your Subframe video
You can also adjust the cable with the screw on the emergency brake shoes, which you could've done before putting alloys back on through the hole in the brake disc with a flat bladed screw driver.
Actually you should do a combination of that, because the adjuster at the shoes adjusts the settings of the shoe relative to the drum inside the brake disc. The other tensions the cable. My German manual says the following: 1. Remove 1 bolt of each of the rear wheels. 2. Raise the rear of the car by jacking it up at the differential subframe and let it rest on two jack stands. 3. Remove the handbrake lever cover to access the adjustment bolts underneath, you can lift the cover up from the rear. 4. Losen the 2 adjustment nuts underneath and make sure you lower the handbrake lever again afterwards. 5. Access the brake shoe adjuster by turning the bolt holes to either the 6 o'clock position for models pre 8-2001, or in models from 9-2001 onwards at the 3 o'clock position driver side and 9 o'clock passenger side (both thus pointing towards the rear of the car). 6. Turn the adjustment screw up towards the outside of the wheel until the wheel doesn't turn anymore by hand. Do this for both wheels. 7. Turn back the adjuster 10 clicks on both wheels (down towards the inside). 8. Double check if both wheels now spin freely, if there is some braking going on still than turn the brake shoe adjuster back 1 click at a time until the wheel turns completely freely. 9. Adjust the handbrake lever: Raise the handbrake 4 clicks up from the down the position. 10. Turn the bolts to tension the cables such that BOTH sides can barely but equally still be turned by hand. 11. Lower the handbrake lever all the way down and check if both wheels can spin freely again, if not repeat the handbrake lever adjustment procedure again. 12. Lower the handbrake all the way down. 13. Turn on the ignition of the car by key and make sure that the handbrake light doesn't stay on. 14. Turn up the handbrake lever 1 click and check if both wheels still spin freely, if it does than repeat the handbrake lever adjustment procedure. The handbrake light on the dashboard is allowed to already light up. 15. Turn up the handbrake lever 2 clicks from the zero position. At this point both tyres should have an equal amount of licht braking power applied to them. If this is not the case, repeat the handbrake lever adjustment procedure. Also the handbrake light on the dash MUST be lighting up at this point, otherwise bent the handbrake contact switch a little on the handbrake lever. 16. Turn of the ignition 17. If you have a jam nut instead of a lock not than make sure this jam nut is secured. 18. Replace the handbrake cover. 19. Lower the car. 20. Put the wheel bolts back in and torqued at 120Nm. 21. Handbrake break-in procedure: for new brake shoes and/or new discs, or simply to remove build up rust on the inside of the brake disc due to little use (recommended: every 4 years). Go for a drive and find an empty street. 22. On the empty street drive at 40km/h and gently tooth for tooth pull on the handbrake lever until you can feel that the vehicle is braking slightly. 23. Keep the vehicle at 40km/h and pull the handbrake lever up 1 click for 400 meters. 24. Release the handbrake and let the brakes cool.
Very helpful, thank you! Knowing I need to replace the rear brake shoes, but without having disassembled them yet, this clearly shows me what I'll be expecting. Great stuff! Thanks.
Just came here to check how to replace the cables because I was tightening them under the brakeboot with 10mm socket and one of the cables broke and the other broke from the screw very weird but knowing the car is 15 years old nothing surprises me anymore by now :D very helpful video tho good job :).
thanks bro haha i pulled my knuckle of for bearing job but was stuck at the hand brake and inpatience made me just cut the cable for now so this will help alot when putting the new one in XD
Not sure why but my e46 rear hub flange face is much bigger circumference wise and as a result i have to use the lug holes to insert the allen key to remove the spring and twist key otherwise the flange is on the way...also removing the cable pull mechanism is a PITA too.
My cable is stuck inside the subframe where there is that rubber piece, i've tried everything i could, now it sit with acid until that rust goes out... i hope it will be finished tomorrow
Bro pls help. I had to shave the old one down with sandpaper to fit the metal part through the subframe but now to fit the new cable I do t want to shave the metal end but it won’t fit and I busted the fuck outta my knuckle open last night trying 😭
@the46guide94 oh no!!!! I would use rust penetrating fluid to get rid of all the gunk out of the subframe and also might still have rubber guides in there. If you have long metal brush wire with drill might help too
@@HansGarage I just did it dude :) I seen another vid where they use the old cable cut off the metal part, then they wrap some coarse sandpaper on it with tape so it barely fits into the subframe. Then just reemed it back and fourth and it eventually became nice and easy and the sand paper came out caked ahahah. New one slid right on in from there thank god 👍🏼
Watching this video bro, I now know why my drivers side fear is making a horrible sound and no park brake function on that side......cheers cuzzy bro.....subscribed
Welp, no way I'm going to that effort to replace the cables, hopefully for me it's just the expanding thing and adjusting screws that are rusty and just need replacing. On the nut adjustment, I can't remember what was written in TIS exactly but aren't you supposed to lift the handbrake by two notches or at the point the handbrake light comes on, then tighten the nuts? Here in the UK, to pass the MOT (roadworthy test), a lever style handbrake has to be tight enough that it's not already at the end of it's travel. I adjusted mine pretty tight to pass the MOT, two months later it's loosened up already =/. Are you going to be doing a steering wheel swap?
brilliant video! thanks so much, very well explained, you've saved me £200 in labour, im going to do this once the weather gets better... 1 question - why do i have to take the 10mm nuts of the hand brake fully? can I not just loosen them right up?... also where is the switch for the handbrake light for the dash?... thanks fella for the upload..👍🏽
1:50 Is it possible that the new adjusting screw was non-original, and too big? Did you check by trying the new brake shoes with the old adjusting screw?
Okey so I’ve got the cables in and through everything but my cables won’t reach the top of the e brake handle. I’ve pushed the cables as far as it goes so it’s just that metal ring showing but it won’t go all the way up, it’s like laying right in the bend of the handle. Any tips or ideas?
@@HansGarage Thank you for replying man, it’s much appreciated! So the way you hammer’d the cable out is the same way I’d hammer the cable into the hub?
Okay so my handbrake like the first couple clicks are fine, but when I get close to the top, you can barely here the clicking sound, and it is not as tight.... anyone know what it would be
3:40 Never use an impact gun to tighten bolts though... always use a torque wrench.... Landrovers (and maybe other cars) have a thin stainless steel cover over the bolts, which is easily damaged with an impact gun....
Hey man, thanks for the video! Question, I just got my first e36 and the rear rotors doesn't want to go in. It was kinda rusty. Do you have any suggestions?
+Mazda Rx7 FD 1993 I use craftsman 19.2 volt. I actually don't recommend getting this one because battery dies quickly. But it is strong enough at the moment.
The new spring installed on the expanding bracket is not the right one. The right on is a double springed sided type with the center straight to accommodate the bracket
Question, does the hand brake lever spring split? Because I'm having a issue with mine... the button you presses to release the hand break kept on getting stuck.. and it popped out.. and I toke the cover off and I saw the spring split..
Han's Garage thanks for a response and do you think just by replacing the lever system my e brake should work? Cause the spring is split and well that honestly the only thing I believe that's wrong with my e brake
i just realized you got the same tires as me, i got my set about 2 months ago and i'm completely in love. i was just wondering how long you've had your set for and if you know how long they would potentially last
Brendon Fernando hey man, that's awesome! I personally love these tires and they were my second set. They should last about 50,000 miles for 6 years but it really depends on how many miles you put on every year.
Jason Cosby for me, I guess my stock cables became too loose over time and I wasnt able to lock the brakes even when I tightened them all the way and expanded my brake shoes
HAN'S GARAGE Whoa!! Thx for the quick reply! I replaced my hardware (came with everything except for the expansion clips) and shoes through O’Reilly’s. The shoes needed fabricating to fit in the inner diameter of the rotor just like you did. After I adjusted everything, I could still turn the wheel (with tension though) when the brake handle was pulled. As I release the handle the shoes dont want to retract. My only ideas are to either order all the hardware and shoes from an OEM supplier, order new expander clips, or install new cables , or all of the above! :-[ Any thoughts? Thanks for your time
HAN'S GARAGE I have like a rotational chirping / squealing sound at the moment when I drive which increases with speed and is not affected by the regular brakes. It doesn’t do it when the handbrake is lifted and it used to be very stiff but now suddenly engages only when pulled very high, so I assume this noise is something to do with the handbrake. Maybe a readjustment will fix it, though I may refresh everything instead with a kit like you’ve used
If I was going to all this effort I would consider replacing the handbrake lever itself, as the ratchet broke on my E46 while parked, and the car rolled down the driveway...
Dropped my rear subframe and I was staring at ebrake cable just hanging lmao thanks and sending love to all the e46 fanatics finally giving their car the tlc the older owners never gave
Never heard better advice for working on cars. “I’m using my impact, look at how easy this is, if you don’t have one. . . Get one”
@@HansGarage haha, love the vid bud. You saved me some time with mine. Keep up the good work.
Cheers Han! I’m working on my e86 Z4M which shares the same rear axle. I’m removing the rear subframe (with the help of your videos) but got stuck with the park brake cables. This has helped loads! 👍👍
Most excellent detailed fully shown repair. This is how it should be done. Thank you.
Maaaaan,
Thanks so much for making this video. Ive had a new left side cable sitting in the trunk of my 330i since 2011. 2022 will be the year I complete that project thanks to you. Lol.
Thanks a million once again and have a nice and productive week Han.
You too brother 🙏
Excellent video Han. Love how you make sure to have good camera angles and then edit so that we have a clear understanding of exactly how the job is done.
I need this one to compliment your Subframe video
Great patience at handling the springs without cursing them ! ...lol !
Daniel Ebbeling ohhh you have no idea in my head lolol
You can also adjust the cable with the screw on the emergency brake shoes, which you could've done before putting alloys back on through the hole in the brake disc with a flat bladed screw driver.
Actually you should do a combination of that, because the adjuster at the shoes adjusts the settings of the shoe relative to the drum inside the brake disc. The other tensions the cable.
My German manual says the following:
1. Remove 1 bolt of each of the rear wheels.
2. Raise the rear of the car by jacking it up at the differential subframe and let it rest on two jack stands.
3. Remove the handbrake lever cover to access the adjustment bolts underneath, you can lift the cover up from the rear.
4. Losen the 2 adjustment nuts underneath and make sure you lower the handbrake lever again afterwards.
5. Access the brake shoe adjuster by turning the bolt holes to either the 6 o'clock position for models pre 8-2001, or in models from 9-2001 onwards at the 3 o'clock position driver side and 9 o'clock passenger side (both thus pointing towards the rear of the car).
6. Turn the adjustment screw up towards the outside of the wheel until the wheel doesn't turn anymore by hand. Do this for both wheels.
7. Turn back the adjuster 10 clicks on both wheels (down towards the inside).
8. Double check if both wheels now spin freely, if there is some braking going on still than turn the brake shoe adjuster back 1 click at a time until the wheel turns completely freely.
9. Adjust the handbrake lever: Raise the handbrake 4 clicks up from the down the position.
10. Turn the bolts to tension the cables such that BOTH sides can barely but equally still be turned by hand.
11. Lower the handbrake lever all the way down and check if both wheels can spin freely again, if not repeat the handbrake lever adjustment procedure again.
12. Lower the handbrake all the way down.
13. Turn on the ignition of the car by key and make sure that the handbrake light doesn't stay on.
14. Turn up the handbrake lever 1 click and check if both wheels still spin freely, if it does than repeat the handbrake lever adjustment procedure. The handbrake light on the dashboard is allowed to already light up.
15. Turn up the handbrake lever 2 clicks from the zero position. At this point both tyres should have an equal amount of licht braking power applied to them. If this is not the case, repeat the handbrake lever adjustment procedure. Also the handbrake light on the dash MUST be lighting up at this point, otherwise bent the handbrake contact switch a little on the handbrake lever.
16. Turn of the ignition
17. If you have a jam nut instead of a lock not than make sure this jam nut is secured.
18. Replace the handbrake cover.
19. Lower the car.
20. Put the wheel bolts back in and torqued at 120Nm.
21. Handbrake break-in procedure: for new brake shoes and/or new discs, or simply to remove build up rust on the inside of the brake disc due to little use (recommended: every 4 years). Go for a drive and find an empty street.
22. On the empty street drive at 40km/h and gently tooth for tooth pull on the handbrake lever until you can feel that the vehicle is braking slightly.
23. Keep the vehicle at 40km/h and pull the handbrake lever up 1 click for 400 meters.
24. Release the handbrake and let the brakes cool.
I was going to point this out.. that his adjustment is wrong..
Very helpful, thank you!
Knowing I need to replace the rear brake shoes, but without having disassembled them yet, this clearly shows me what I'll be expecting. Great stuff! Thanks.
Wow that has to be one of the best instructional vids ever. First class many thanks Hans your a legend
Thanks for watching!
Great channel. More vids please! I don't even have an e46. Video production is great and you are excellent at explaining all the steps.
pgreenx thank you so much.
Amazing, so little rust. Here in the UK my cars really suffer with rusting.
Great video, thanks for posting.
Just came here to check how to replace the cables because I was tightening them under the brakeboot with 10mm socket and one of the cables broke and the other broke from the screw very weird but knowing the car is 15 years old nothing surprises me anymore by now :D very helpful video tho good job :).
So, how did you fish and fix the brake cable that broke from the screw ??
Thanks for the video super easy to follow not steps skipped, going to be rebuilding it for my e39!
thanks bro haha i pulled my knuckle of for bearing job but was stuck at the hand brake and inpatience made me just cut the cable for now so this will help alot when putting the new one in XD
Thanks for the upload! I'm going to watch this a few more times and then attempt to do mines next month.
were you able to install the new cables?
Han's Garage I actually was able to just tighten up the bolts on the inside of the car and that worked out for me. Thanks!
thank you so much, best video on TH-cam
Thanks for the video. This is next weekends car job for me.
Excellent demonstration to a DIY!!!
Thank you sir, subscribed !!
Cheers 😎✌️
Dude you are an inspiration.
Thank you! Means a lot!
This helped me a lot during handbrake line replacement ;) Thanks!
Tomasz Piecha how did you put the new lines back on? This is the point I’m stuck
Thanks for the video, tomorrow will change my brakes, hope all will be ok :D
Do you know why my handbrake light on dash doesn’t come on when I pull on lever , I just have the word brake in red
Did I miss something, only I never saw you set the brake adjusters on the shoes before setting the hand brake cable
I thought the same! Plus why dose the wheel rock back and forth when he checks at the wheel to see if the hand brake works ??
So to just change the cable i can just take the lock off and the small spring to be able to push the bottom end of the cable out?
Odličan video .
Momak je objasnio kako kednostavno odradit posao na svom autu.
Svaka čast i sve pohvale.
How long are the cables?
I installed mine but I think they are too long because I don’t have much tension when pulling the handle.
Not sure why but my e46 rear hub flange face is much bigger circumference wise and as a result i have to use the lug holes to insert the allen key to remove the spring and twist key otherwise the flange is on the way...also removing the cable pull mechanism is a PITA too.
My cable is stuck inside the subframe where there is that rubber piece, i've tried everything i could, now it sit with acid until that rust goes out... i hope it will be finished tomorrow
Currently in the middle of doing this.. my new cable that I've got just does not fit through the subframe whole. Any advice please?
Persistence and some swearing I got the rubber part out 👍😁
Bro pls help. I had to shave the old one down with sandpaper to fit the metal part through the subframe but now to fit the new cable I do t want to shave the metal end but it won’t fit and I busted the fuck outta my knuckle open last night trying 😭
Any tips pleaseeee
@the46guide94 oh no!!!! I would use rust penetrating fluid to get rid of all the gunk out of the subframe and also might still have rubber guides in there. If you have long metal brush wire with drill might help too
@@HansGarage I just did it dude :) I seen another vid where they use the old cable cut off the metal part, then they wrap some coarse sandpaper on it with tape so it barely fits into the subframe. Then just reemed it back and fourth and it eventually became nice and easy and the sand paper came out caked ahahah. New one slid right on in from there thank god 👍🏼
Watching this video bro, I now know why my drivers side fear is making a horrible sound and no park brake function on that side......cheers cuzzy bro.....subscribed
Kwest what did it end up being making the noise?
tryna pull wire while u can loosen brake handle lmao what a specialist xd
Is there a special tool you can use to remove the handbrake cable?
I am curious to know if you can apply this rebuild to other cars like a 240sx for instance. Awesome in depth video as well.
I honestly have no idea... Guessing it wouldn't be too different??
On the e46 318i bought 2 new cables that came with labels for left and right and the right one is 15mm longer. Do you know why that is Han? Thanks
If my button to release the brake is loose/broken, and the brake doesnt bite, can i just replace the handle? Or do i need to buy all the other stuff?
Gute Arbeit Danke .
Think I'm pay shop after watching 😂
If you are paying, add the subframe bushings if you haven’t swapped them out
Welp, no way I'm going to that effort to replace the cables, hopefully for me it's just the expanding thing and adjusting screws that are rusty and just need replacing.
On the nut adjustment, I can't remember what was written in TIS exactly but aren't you supposed to lift the handbrake by two notches or at the point the handbrake light comes on, then tighten the nuts?
Here in the UK, to pass the MOT (roadworthy test), a lever style handbrake has to be tight enough that it's not already at the end of it's travel. I adjusted mine pretty tight to pass the MOT, two months later it's loosened up already =/.
Are you going to be doing a steering wheel swap?
Thanks for video. I want to ask when adjust cables at the front is it ok twist cables
Can they stay straight or they stressed and twist inside too?
brilliant video! thanks so much, very well explained, you've saved me £200 in labour, im going to do this once the weather gets better... 1 question - why do i have to take the 10mm nuts of the hand brake fully? can I not just loosen them right up?... also where is the switch for the handbrake light for the dash?... thanks fella for the upload..👍🏽
I’d take them off to be able to get the two cables out?
1:50 Is it possible that the new adjusting screw was non-original, and too big? Did you check by trying the new brake shoes with the old adjusting screw?
Isn't it necessary to adjust the parking brake shoes at the wheel adjuster before making a final adjustment at the handbrake lever?
Very good video thank you man!!!
Hey, at 25:39 seems that the wheel was blocked, do you have an automatic? If not, was it blocked that way by your parking break?
+Gonzalo Soto oh no I was spinning my wheel to show that the e Brake was working when pulled up
I was expecting not to have any play when the parking break was applied. I have that play too in my e36 but thought it was not working properly...
Gonzalo Soto it's actually normal because the brake pads need to have some room to expand and retract
good to know, thanks mate!
no problem!
How do you put the cable back into the back of the rotor ???
So you're not adjusting the actual adjusting screw/nut in the rear brakes themselves?
I explained why in the intro why adjusting screws won't work 😉
What is the labour time for a handbrake adjustment on an E46 if the shoes and lever need adjusting?
Okey so I’ve got the cables in and through everything but my cables won’t reach the top of the e brake handle. I’ve pushed the cables as far as it goes so it’s just that metal ring showing but it won’t go all the way up, it’s like laying right in the bend of the handle. Any tips or ideas?
You have to push the other end all the way, it cant be too loose and have the locking pin installed.
HAN'S GARAGE yeah I understand. Is there anywhere else I can reach you? So I can send pics
Hansgarage1@gmail.com
HAN'S GARAGE I fixed it! But I will keep the mail for further questions! Thanks alot!
@@marvelousyang amazing!
any tips on getting the expanding lock to hold??
+J Ferrer just have to hook it to the cable and it should hold the lock
I know this video is 7 years old now, but how do you install the new cable through the drum? I’ve only seen how to take it out - please help!
They go in same way they come out. Very easy install once the old cables are out
@@HansGarage Thank you for replying man, it’s much appreciated! So the way you hammer’d the cable out is the same way I’d hammer the cable into the hub?
@Fabianedwd no need to hammer in it will fit snug after cleaning out the hole
@@HansGarage Copy that! Thank you man!
very informative video, well explained, thankyou
Okay so my handbrake like the first couple clicks are fine, but when I get close to the top, you can barely here the clicking sound, and it is not as tight.... anyone know what it would be
karter fuller you have to adjust your cable nuts by tightening them so the cables are tight
Right underneath your ebrake handle
karter fuller 4:28
3:40 Never use an impact gun to tighten bolts though... always use a torque wrench.... Landrovers (and maybe other cars) have a thin stainless steel cover over the bolts, which is easily damaged with an impact gun....
Hey man, thanks for the video! Question, I just got my first e36 and the rear rotors doesn't want to go in. It was kinda rusty. Do you have any suggestions?
I would buy new rotors since I had the same exact issue and could not fit them again
@@HansGarage yee, I figured..just ordered. Thanks man💪🏾💪🏾
What did you use for the wedge?
What's up Han! Can you tell me which impact your using. I'm using a dewalt 1/2 with 325 pound of torque. it wouldn't take off my wheels. thanks
+Mazda Rx7 FD 1993 I use craftsman 19.2 volt. I actually don't recommend getting this one because battery dies quickly. But it is strong enough at the moment.
Very helpful thanks 👍
Best video ever tho thank you... i just want to know where did u get all the springs?
The new spring installed on the expanding bracket is not the right one. The right on is a double springed sided type with the center straight to accommodate the bracket
I was thinking the same thing
Question, does the hand brake lever spring split? Because I'm having a issue with mine... the button you presses to release the hand break kept on getting stuck.. and it popped out.. and I toke the cover off and I saw the spring split..
ImStarx yea.... that should not slit...
Han's Garage thanks for a response and do you think just by replacing the lever system my e brake should work? Cause the spring is split and well that honestly the only thing I believe that's wrong with my e brake
+ImStarx hard for me to say without looking at all your components...
i just realized you got the same tires as me, i got my set about 2 months ago and i'm completely in love. i was just wondering how long you've had your set for and if you know how long they would potentially last
Brendon Fernando hey man, that's awesome! I personally love these tires and they were my second set. They should last about 50,000 miles for 6 years but it really depends on how many miles you put on every year.
thats not bad! yeah exactly, it definitely depends on how you drive, but thats very good to hear. thanks man
@@HansGarage 50,000 lol my michelin pilot sport 4s last 8,000 if I'm good.. Too many roundabouts in my area
@@wdbdb382 you a crazy man lol
I like the fake 'I-Drive' knob at 0:06s :)
That's air refresher lolol
8:04 my mans ripping the sandys
Hey Haan thx for the video. What were the symptoms for replacing the cables?
Jason Cosby for me, I guess my stock cables became too loose over time and I wasnt able to lock the brakes even when I tightened them all the way and expanded my brake shoes
HAN'S GARAGE Whoa!! Thx for the quick reply! I replaced my hardware (came with everything except for the expansion clips) and shoes through O’Reilly’s. The shoes needed fabricating to fit in the inner diameter of the rotor just like you did. After I adjusted everything, I could still turn the wheel (with tension though) when the brake handle was pulled. As I release the handle the shoes dont want to retract. My only ideas are to either order all the hardware and shoes from an OEM supplier, order new expander clips, or install new cables , or all of the above! :-[
Any thoughts?
Thanks for your time
Jason Cosby id try getting parts from fcp and return if they dont work and get full refund
Hello Han! does this concept also work on a '97 e39 as well?
yes they should almost be the same
What side does the longer cable go on?
they should be equal I believe.
Would be nice if you made a video on installing rear camber arms
865_Rostislav you can actually see my subframe reinforcement vids to take them off and installing them :)
+Han's Garage Sweet,thanks!
hello sir, can u teach me how to open in. from inside the handle is broken
Hi, once you take off the boot, the handle is held on by 3 screws. 2 right by where the cables are and one behind the handle bar. Hope this helps!
Tnx, good tutorial!
😂I don't know why I can't stop laughing
Richy Rich glad i can make you laugh :)
Great stuff - if you bought the refresh kit, how many hours of labour roughly is this work for a garage?
Really depends on the condition of your car
HAN'S GARAGE Thank you Han x How does the condition of the car affect the labour time? Apologies if that’s a silly question
HAN'S GARAGE I have like a rotational chirping / squealing sound at the moment when I drive which increases with speed and is not affected by the regular brakes. It doesn’t do it when the handbrake is lifted and it used to be very stiff but now suddenly engages only when pulled very high, so I assume this noise is something to do with the handbrake. Maybe a readjustment will fix it, though I may refresh everything instead with a kit like you’ve used
If I was going to all this effort I would consider replacing the handbrake lever itself, as the ratchet broke on my E46 while parked, and the car rolled down the driveway...
No need to grind! There's an adjustment teethed little knob!
Rip brake lines lol, otherwise excellent vid
Great fucking video... u saved me like 300 dlls
Why are you removing the cables..
I wanted to replace them with fresh ones.
Those Bilstein HD look a little worn lol
brake borken
hung tang how so??
1:20 This is pure bullshit! Lol