To get the printer stick on surface off, start at one corner and peel back whilst holding back pressure on the stick on surface and start to form a cylinder, then a sharp hobby knife to back cut the adhesive, each cut with the knife will release a bit more of the stick on surface and is real easy to do and comes off in no time at all. Next thing I use a spray bottle with Turpentine give the plate a squirt on the left over adhesive and let it soak for a few minutes then I use a properly sharpened 25 mm wood chisel at a shallow angle to scrape/ cut the softened adhesive off, Turpentine also good for hard to get off masking tape, It's the correct solvent for that type of adhesive, fair dinkum would have taken me no more than ten minutes tops.Good luck.
Hello, CHRIS here. I purchased my new Tevo Tornado a few days back and since I haven’t seen it do or try anything BUT damage itself. All tests were just scratching the green plate. I was adjusting the bed assuming it was that,... nope. I then thought the nozzle was clogged. I took it apart and cleaned it as well and replaced the nozzle with the extra that came inside. It started to come out nice and neat. Popped in the SD card to test print and then just scratch, scratch, scratch like a chalkboard. I said maybe it’s the green bed skin. People take there’s off on Videos. Googoned it real clean. Only to see it get scratched just like the skin. I’m at a loss for words. Wife and kids are dying just to see the technology work! This is a kit,... so assuming it’s a dud would be dumb since parts can be replaced and such as long as I find the problem right? Well I need help!!! I’ll be happy just to see it try doing a boat and coming out blobby,... just do something other then scratch the surface. Ohh I started off with PETG not PLA or ABS. Please suggestions,... I wouldn’t wanna buy anoth printer that just works out the box, cuz everyone LOVES THERES!!! Can I be in the club. I think I’m tearing with all the work I’ve done and obtained nothing. Ok enough talk I’ll be patient for any response and or help. I’ll even throw in my cell if anyone asks if you think that may be faster. PLEASE
Where Nerdy is Cool! I did just that and someone was kind enough to help me. He recommended I start with PLA rather then PETG. I didn’t think that filament was a challenge. Thanx for your help!
Great video EXCEPT..why would you talk about all these great things and NOT PROVIDE LINKS??? There is a better strain relief like the one for the CR10 on Thingiverse. I had trouble with the stock build surface as well but I found if you let the surface COMPLETELY cool things just pop off. I don't like waiting so I'm going to go to glass and gluestick.
@@MissSpaz Just released about a couple of months ago and it's already on it's 4 patch V2.0.4. I jumped on to soon and now I've got the 3D Printers version of the "Blue Screen of Death", so hold off for a few months till they get it fixed.
I've tried about 3 different surfaces. The best one I found (was referred to by a friend) although rather expensive is from FilaFarm.DE in Germany. The actual surface is called FilaPrint.I got the 'Switch' system which is a magnetic system. The magnet sticks to the build plate and thin metal plate sticks to the Filaprint. Never touch with fingers (grease) or a metal object. When the surface cools flex it a bit ad the print drops right off. Check my channel for a video of this system. You can also get just the FilaPrint and stick it down, much cheaper. I got the switch so I can have 2 print surfaces. One cooling down and slap the other on and just continue printing. I also subscribe to this channel. Great information.
To me it was worth every penny. I don't want to name the others I had problems with because there's many who love those. I just didn't have any luck. I added a photo in my main comment
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
To get the printer stick on surface off, start at one corner and peel back whilst holding back pressure on the stick on surface and start to form a cylinder, then a sharp hobby knife to back cut the adhesive, each cut with the knife will release a bit more of the stick on surface and is real easy to do and comes off in no time at all.
Next thing I use a spray bottle with Turpentine give the plate a squirt on the left over adhesive and let it soak for a few minutes then I use a properly sharpened 25 mm wood chisel at a shallow angle to scrape/ cut the softened adhesive off, Turpentine also good for hard to get off masking tape, It's the correct solvent for that type of adhesive, fair dinkum would have taken me no more than ten minutes tops.Good luck.
You might wanna try to use roofing washers on the bottom of the bed. The mix between the rubber and metal should help lock the bed screws down.
Good suggestion...I really dislike this bed screw/bed level design!
Hello, CHRIS here. I purchased my new Tevo Tornado a few days back and since I haven’t seen it do or try anything BUT damage itself. All tests were just scratching the green plate. I was adjusting the bed assuming it was that,... nope. I then thought the nozzle was clogged. I took it apart and cleaned it as well and replaced the nozzle with the extra that came inside. It started to come out nice and neat. Popped in the SD card to test print and then just scratch, scratch, scratch like a chalkboard. I said maybe it’s the green bed skin. People take there’s off on Videos. Googoned it real clean. Only to see it get scratched just like the skin. I’m at a loss for words. Wife and kids are dying just to see the technology work! This is a kit,... so assuming it’s a dud would be dumb since parts can be replaced and such as long as I find the problem right? Well I need help!!! I’ll be happy just to see it try doing a boat and coming out blobby,... just do something other then scratch the surface. Ohh I started off with PETG not PLA or ABS. Please suggestions,... I wouldn’t wanna buy anoth printer that just works out the box, cuz everyone LOVES THERES!!! Can I be in the club. I think I’m tearing with all the work I’ve done and obtained nothing. Ok enough talk I’ll be patient for any response and or help. I’ll even throw in my cell if anyone asks if you think that may be faster. PLEASE
Be sure to join the Tevo Tornado Facebook group....lot's of great people there to help you out.
facebook.com/groups/TEVO.Tornado.Owners
Where Nerdy is Cool! I did just that and someone was kind enough to help me. He recommended I start with PLA rather then PETG. I didn’t think that filament was a challenge. Thanx for your help!
PETG can be tough. I haven’t tried it yet since PLA works well for most of what I print
There is a strain relief that fits underneath, that is what i have. it is on thiniverse
Thank you! I found a few that seem to have potential.
What size nut an washer?
Add a rubber washers to the bed leveling bolts .. mine stopped rotating once I did that.
Stacey Budd under the screw head? That’s a good idea
What size nut an washer did you use
Great video. Is there a link for the Tevo Tornado firmware update file...been searching and cant find the file. Thanks.
I haven't upgraded mine but I will be doing the TH3D Unified Firmware on mine
Great video EXCEPT..why would you talk about all these great things and NOT PROVIDE LINKS??? There is a better strain relief like the one for the CR10 on Thingiverse. I had trouble with the stock build surface as well but I found if you let the surface COMPLETELY cool things just pop off. I don't like waiting so I'm going to go to glass and gluestick.
I’ll do better next time!
Can I get a link for that print surface?
Sure ....here it is!
tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/collections/awesome-upgrades/products/polypropylene-build-plates-for-3d-printers
Where Nerdy is Cool! Appreciate it man thanks
Where Nerdy is Cool! Did you make the holes your self ?
No problem....on that link, you can select the proper size for your printer. The Tevo one has the holes drilled out to access the bed screws
Where Nerdy is Cool! Thanks mobile version of the website drop down menu is broken works on desktop version.
You said you upgraded the firmware... we need a video on that... maybe do the upgrade to the new Marlin 2.0
Marlin 2.0? How new is that?
@@MissSpaz Just released about a couple of months ago and it's already on it's 4 patch V2.0.4. I jumped on to soon and now I've got the 3D Printers version of the "Blue Screen of Death", so hold off for a few months till they get it fixed.
Is pid tuning neccessary?
I’d advise that yes! Get that hot end tuned up
I've tried about 3 different surfaces. The best one I found (was referred to by a friend) although rather expensive is from FilaFarm.DE in Germany. The actual surface is called FilaPrint.I got the 'Switch' system which is a magnetic system. The magnet sticks to the build plate and thin metal plate sticks to the Filaprint. Never touch with fingers (grease) or a metal object. When the surface cools flex it a bit ad the print drops right off. Check my channel for a video of this system. You can also get just the FilaPrint and stick it down, much cheaper. I got the switch so I can have 2 print surfaces. One cooling down and slap the other on and just continue printing. I also subscribe to this channel. Great information.
I've been to that website and their approach looks great! Expensive...but very good.
To me it was worth every penny. I don't want to name the others I had problems with because there's many who love those. I just didn't have any luck. I added a photo in my main comment
Here's a photo of the build plate and the strain Relief I printed from Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:2748197
Photo here: flic.kr/p/LnTxmL
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