Advanced Tuning: ESTEPS calibration and PID Control for your Tevo Tornado 3D Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- Today I am doing some advanced calibration on the Tevo Tornado 3d printer. First we are going to run the autotune on the PID control in the Marlin firmware. This will help the printer stablize and determine the optimum settings to heat and cool your hotend, so it can better maintain the temperature you've given it! You'll see that PID Tuning isn't that hard!
After that, I am measuring the 20 mm test block to verify the X, Y and Z axis are as close to 20 mm as possible. In this video, I need to calculate the esteps to fix my z axis! It's a little bit of math and quite easy to do!
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This is wrong. You never calibrate movement steps based on a shrinking material. The BEST way to adjust steps/mm is to command the axis to move 100mm, measure how much it moved, and adjust based on that. Doing it this way will remove the numerous other variables (extrusion rate, material shrinkage, etc) that this guys calibration method has.
As I have learned from others, I completely agree with you. I should re-edit this to cut that section out and keep the PID autotune section in. The way I was taught wasn't correct and as you rightfully point out, mechanically verifying the esteps in the proper way to do it
@@WhereNerdyisCool Just wanted to throw it out there for anyone who might see this vid!
@@wbreslin951 that's why I pinned your comment to the top! I love feedback...I like learning and even when I'm proven wrong, I want to learn it correctly!
Hey @Where Nerdy is Cool!, Should I just ignore everything but the PID autotune section? If so this cover everything about the extrusion calibration? And if Not could you make another video about how to correctly calibrate a 3D Printer Extruder. Thanks for the videos buddy. I've subscribed and watch . I'm a noob and it is getting complicated but I'm working it all out.
Yes. AutoTune is correct. What I was shown on doing esteps isn’t correct. We’re all learning here!
I really liked your video. I appreciate you explaining the changes and how it would impact the printer. Not many people talk about software on this printer so it was refreshing to hear how to tune the settings on this printer.
Thanks! Now since I posted this I have learned that using esteps on XY and Z isn’t the best. You want to check those mechanical settings a different way.
Thank you Paul, appreciate it! I will tune my upgraded UM2 (3dSolex block, nozzles, 40W heater, Meduza’s feeder and other small stuffs). I got PID numbers with gr5 but I wasn’t sure where to insert in S3D. Cheers from Rio, FerGazz / UM community
what software are you using to get into the setting
Fairly new subscriber here. Appreciate your videos and how you explain things. I'm a Star Wars fanatic and also in the 501st Legion. Thinking about printing a R2 sometime in the near future.
Hello TK! Welcome aboard and thanks for subscribing! You can 3D print an R2-D2 ...there's many ways to build one! However the best place to explore it is at Astromech.Net! What type armor do you have?
I'm a sandtrooper and my kit is a bit of a mixture but mostly Walt's Trooper Factory parts. I am thinking the heavy printing will begin to take place in the late fall and throughout the Winter to give me something to do. Right now I'm having too much fun printing things on my CR-10s to give up the time to dedicate on one project that'll take weeks and months of printing.
Nice info drop thanks do a few amazing prints from sci fi and games. Feel better too but sick day watching old shows might give you some ideas
Thanks for putting this together Paul. Another great video!!
I've got a question for you, regarding the PID Autotune... I followed your commands exactly, and the first time I wasn't sure if I read it correctly, so I ran it again. Since I got different results the second time I ran it a third time so I could use the average and store it in my firmware... Well the third time yielded wildly different results, especially on "P" & "I"... Do you have any thoughts or recommendations?
1st) P=57.06 I=10.55 D=77.12
2nd) P=56.55 I=10.79 D=74.12
3rd) P=21.00 I=1.42 D=77.83
I run it multiple times as I saw others do. It seems the result is the best average?
Great video, but I was hoping you can help me. I need to do some PID tuning but have never connected to my printer before, I simply ran it from SD card. I notice you connect to your laptop via the USB cable, but I don't know what software you are using to send the commands to the printer. Sorry if this is a really noob question. but if you could let me know the software so I can download it. Thanks
We all start as newbies! I’ll come up with a short video that should help!
I hope I have made your wish come true with my newest video... th-cam.com/video/kBtqvomcK4Q/w-d-xo.html
This was a great video, could you please next time you do a screen shot try to get the whole screen in shot.
Not complaining, just easier to follow.
Great video tho thank you.
Good point and I thank you for this constructive criticism....I'm always trying to improve!
@@WhereNerdyisCool Yes please, I have no idea what software you are using and where you are inputting the g-code.
Fantastic video thank you for sharing. I was able to calibrate a 20mm cube to within .05mm! However when I ran it scales to 40mm it's big .5mm in all axis. Any suggestions?
You could also check your mechanical esteps...meaning, make sure if you move the X / Y / Z axis, use a ruler/caliper and make sure it's really moving the distance you commanded it
I really wish you got more into the x,y,z calibration. There are no videos on this topic
Good idea.
@@WhereNerdyisCool It would be great! Comment here so i know its up. Subscribing now!
@@Bamlydean I know someone did a video on it...maybe for their Tevo as well. But it's something I need to do on my other printers as well. Good video suggestion! I imagine setting up the esteps is much like the extruder.
What software are you using for the commands and is it free? I want to use free programs or trial versions
I was using Simplify3D but that's commercial software. For free stuff, PronterFace and RepitierHost work quite well too!
Can you show us how to do it in repetier host most of us cant afford s3d. Cheers
It’s the same steps with Pronterface or Repetier Host
great video, hopefully I'll get to these advance tuneing soon. I setup my first printer the tornado, yesterday and it seems I'm getting clicking .."skipping" from my extruder. I'm planning on raising my extruder voltage from 0.95v to 1.0v, and making sure there aren't any blockage in my filiment tube. would you have any other advice on what else to check if these dont solve the skipping?
It's interesting you mentioned this...I have a recent print with a Y axis shift, so upon doing some research, I have to increase my voltage on the Y axis. If you have skipping in the extruder, be sure to check that hard-to-reach tension screw...that might be worth checking out too! And the Facebook group is a great resource too...if you can catch it doing it on video, share that on there! (Thanks for Subscribing! Welcome!)
Thank you for your video! How do you get such wonderful adhesive results? My calibration figures are unglued almost 90% of my prints and that lead to print failure of course :-((( tevo2018, glass hotbed, stock config.
I'm having great luck with Polypropylene Build Plates from Tiny Machines
tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/collections/awesome-upgrades/products/polypropylene-build-plates-for-3d-printers
@@WhereNerdyisCool How do you remove the heating pad under the glass and glue or bond it to the new bed plate?
Very slowly and carefully. Then apply to the new bed
#1 My "Z" must be loosing a lot of steps as it's knocked off 4 prints right off the bed, (Including the over sized raft). At around the 1"/1-1/2" height the nozzle starts hitting the print. So how do I adjust that?
#2 What are those programs you're using on the laptop?
#3 Is there a more detailed video to show me how to use those programs and more importantly "What am I looking for in the way of Search terms?
If you’re knocking over prints, one trick you could try (which I use, too) is to add z hop. In Cura you’ll find it under Travel and Z Hop When Retracted. The default distance is 1 mm. In Simplify3D it’s on the Extruder tab and called Retraction Vertical Lift and you can put in a value like 1 mm. Good luck!
@@WhereNerdyisCool Been there; Done that! Up to 6mm. It's not the hop, it's hitting as it prints. It's loosing steps in height, layer by layer as it prints.
@@WhereNerdyisCool You haven't said a thing about the programs; are they a secret or pirated software? I thought most of the software was open-source.
The software is free, with the exception of Simplify3D. Nothing secret!
@@WhereNerdyisCool have you got a link for the 'free' part.... I haven't got a 150 bucks for S3D.
Hello!! Love love love your content 😊
Thank you! I hope you Subscribe to see more!
My TEVO Tornado is going nuts.... it will shift the print to the right as much as a half an inch after about 15 to 20 layers... then the next print will be a half an inch to the left (X axis). What do I look for to fix this?
Stepper drivers staying cool?
@@WhereNerdyisCool Yes as far as I know.... I've done 1 and 2 day prints without a problem... now even a 20 minute print will shift. (Side Question: Have you updated to the new version 2 Marlin?)
I have a question hopefully someone can answer. I want to get into 3D printing & I'm a complete novice to it, but I'm very technically inclined. Been in the computer industry for over 30 years, can do board level soldering, home automation & work in the security alarm, access control, & surveillance for a living. I'm looking for a printer that can do great printing for the value, but also upgradable if possible. The more I look at reviews on printers the more undecided I'm getting. Thanks in advance.
How much build volume do you need? The FolgerTech printer kits are fun to put together!
I am new to the Tevo Tornado and I just ran the PID Tuning, adjusted and stored successfully, and wanted to make the change recommended by Paul in the video in the configuration.h file but I can't find it. I have Simplify3d that I used for the tuning. Can any one tell me where it is?
Hi Dan. Due to the limits of this chat box I can’t show you where it is but if you do a Ctrl F and search PID you should spot it. If not let me know
@@WhereNerdyisCool Thanks Paul but I'm on a mac so Ctrl F doesn't do anything! Any other suggestions?
@@danskow9718 Command F? I don't know Macs. Could never afford one :)
@@WhereNerdyisCool Thanks, but it appears there is no configuration.h file on the mac. The printer is not reading a config file from the mac anyway. Why would I have one on the mac? Is it in the firmware?
The Marlin firmware is where you could enter that value. Assuming you are familiar with editing and compiling your own in Arduino. Otherwise, the gcode commands or manually enter it in the control box would work
hı ı have a tevo tornado ı lıke my3d printer but have a problem my prınter y axes shifting when ı printed oclıdgen object not shıftıng but when ı prınt cırcles object y axes shıftıng u have any opinion thanks...
Check out Ruiraptor, he has a lot of Tevo videos too....in short, I bet you need to raise the Y Stepper Voltage to 1.0v
Can someone tell me how to put z steps in Cura start code?
I used a needle and ruler. It looks good but 0.1mm is hard to see
Great idea!
But my issue now is I dont know how to make my Y axis to print correct. It turns out 0.1mm bigger compare to X. Basicly same when scaling it up the test cube..
If I try tune the y steps for a 20 cube it works..
However when scaling up at this point it gets wrong again.
Also noticed increasing infill makes it shrink less.
100% infill 10cube = 10.05
20% infill = 9.90-95 ish
The gt2 belt sits tight . And it has quality pulleys. Even tested printing slower but it doesnt seem to be backlash.
An OK vid but feeling a bit teased. You brought Cristina out for a few vids and I think all responded favorably. Now you won't bring her back. Not fair at all.
She's flattered by your comment! I'm working on getting her back in front of the camera!