Andy, I was watching the video, does the take up spring stay in the down position? Or do you set it on the left? I appreciate all the videos, I'm really trying to learn as much as I can. Thank you again,
Yes, it should be brought up and put on the "rest" of the thread guide. This video I was trying to explain the difference in the 401 class and 500 class tension unit. If you look at 13:08 in this video th-cam.com/video/BL5Idq17VTw/w-d-xo.html I show to just lift the spring loop up to the left and set it on the "rest". Anyone looking for more detail about tension can look at the playlist I made "All about tension": th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U.html Thank you for ponting out about the ckeck spring position in this video. I did not mean to confuse anyone who is not familiar with Singer Tension Units. I'll pin your comment to the top in case others have the same question. Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi Andy, I've viewed a number of ur videos over the years that have been very informative n helpful. I've had problems with thread tension adjustments but haven't attempt to disasemble the tension assembly fearing the worst, not getting it back together. After watching ur step by step overhaul, I did it. What a difference it made, the machine sounds n runs so much smoother. A pandemic beginner n grinning novice that enjoys the contentment sewing brings, Thank You Very Much!🙂🙃😉
Norman, I'm really happy you decided to jump into that tension. I know how rewarding it is to fix it and sew, hear. feel the results. So many viewers have told me that they love fixing and maintaining there vintage Singer machines b/c they have trouble finding any place that will do the servicing properly or they charge so much. I don't sew at all, but my wife and I make a good team. She sews almost every day and I help her service and repair her machines. I appreciate you taking the time to comment, and thanks for watching my channel. Take care.
Mahalo Andy, for responding to my comment . . . as u mentioned the collaboration u have with ur wife as 'the Driver n u the chief mechanic'. It might be presumptuous of me but there is no higher rewards u can get knowing she gets to enjoy the satisfaction(s) u enable by keeping her machines in tip top shape, Much Aloha to U.
Not presumptuous at all, Norman. She has been sewing for 50 years. Made her own clothes for the last 40, and makes many of my shirts. She has made wedding gowns, ball gowns, bridesmaids dresses, drapes, curtains, graduation gowns, tons of clothes for the grandkids, etc. I love hearing the sound of her sewing when I walk by the sewing room b/c I know she is doing what she loves. It's the least I can do as a small thanks for all she's has given me in my life. One of her latest things is buying brand new high end clothing at yard sales and thrift shops. for pennies on the dollar. They are usually 4X or larger but she just cuts them down to the size she wants, maybe changes the neckline or sleeve design and sews them back together. She has gifted friends and family with some of these and gets a kick when her sister, niece, nephew. etc. gets a custom fit Cole Haan or Donna Karan, Hermes, Armani, etc. piece of clothing, hehe.
WoW Andy, I was so intimidated to tackle the tension dial unit until I watched your video. As always, you do a perfect explanation. I can do it! someone (not me) made a mess of this tension unit on this 503A.
Dang right you can do it! No worries; you've got the touch for it. Poor thing with tension abuse but now saved by SuZ. Hey, that would make a great title for your video, right? "Saved by SuZ" how I repair the tension""
Thanks! I fiddled around with one long enough to get the two pieces to separate. This was my first attempt at taking apart and cleaning a VSM and wouldn’t have done it without your amazing 404 series! I was motivated to try it with your detailed instructions! They are amazing!
Oh good job! I'm glad if my videos encourage people to clean, repair ad adjust their VSM. They are just to valuable to be abandonded. I have a feeling you will enjoy yourself so much that before you know it there will be VSM #2 the #3 and so forth. I hope yu still have good thoughs about me then, haha. Take Care.
Thanks for the comment, Amy. If there are any questions with the 40aA tension unit, this short playlist was made using a 404 tension unit, which is the same as the 401A. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U.html Take Care.
I wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your videos. I am a senior woman who loves to quilt. My present machine is a newer not expensive brother. It has trouble going over several thicknesses of fabric. Just comes to a halt. I've been researching for about a year for a machine that is very basic, straight stitch and power to go thro several thicknesses of fabric. I found the juki 2010. Its. 1000.00. I have been working odd-jobs trying to save that much. But, in my quilting group on Facebook someone mentioned a singer 301. So, I went to your sites on how to clean them, their quality and they being American made. I now own a singer 500a Rocketeer. She is beautiful. I named Christa after our only teacher in space(my daughter is a teacher also) and am more excited about my machine than if I had the juki. Number one is American made with American quality workmanship. I am still looking for a singer 301. I will find one and will name her as well. Thank you so much for the time and effort.you put into your videos. These machines need to be brought back and used. No more cheap disposable sewing machines. I am so jazzed. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing this, Mary. I glad you found my channel and feel the videos are helpful. Whew! For $1,000 you could buy 3 or 4 vintage Singer machines, haha. You can do so much with that 500A Rocketeer, and you'll love how portable that 301 is, with its build-in handle and only about 16lbs maybe? That stitch on the 301 is sure favored by quilters. A repairman once told me that the 301 stitch is the only one that looks the same on both sides. Very happy for you and thanks for getting the Singers and keeping them in service. Happy sewing.
Hey Andy, I recently bought a 503A although I have never sewn before. I am teaching myself. I wanted to let you know I am learning a lot from your video's as this one has needed a little love. I greatly appreciate that you took the time to make videos and post them. On one of your replies you stated "Personally, I'd rather own the 403A than the 500A". Why do you prefer the 403?
Thanks for saving the machine, Terry. I prefer the 403A because of its cleaner, industrial styling. I know some folks love the "futuristic" Rocketeer models styling, but to me it was a gimmick that did not improve function. The 403A has a bobbin winder system that will just never break; I've never had a 403A with a broken BW. The 503A on the other hand has come to me many times with broken springs on the bobbin winder and it requires a special, smaller rubber friction ring. On the 403A all you need is staring you in the face other than the smaller flip-up lid cover for changing pattern cams. Model 503A has that big, full length lid to cover the BW, the pattern cam stack and the flip-up spool pins. The felts for those spool pins are glued onto the cover and require more work to change when they get thin, versus the standard spool pin felt you can find everywhere that are on the 403A which has two spool pins on top with direct access. They did add one mechanical feature to the 500A & 503A; the Thread Control that doesn't really help in any way, IMO. Singer never used it again after those two Rocketeer models. Some viewers have told me that the thread control system is to prevent skipped stitches when sewing knit fabrics, but I disagree b/c Singer sent an instruction sheet to bypass the thread control for knits, thread the needle path a different way, and later changed the hook on some of them. th-cam.com/video/m79nr_DHRwQ/w-d-xo.html As I said, I know many folks love the "look" of the rocketeers and they are very very nice machines. I just appreciate form & function over styling I guess. Thanks for watching my channel and take care.
I understand how you are putting this back together but I need help to take mine apart. I am unable to remove the brown tension dial by pulling or turning. Yes I did remove the set screw. Can you please make or direct me to a video on breaking down the thread tension assembly specifically on the 500 Series machines? I have not been able to find anything that shows how to do this. Thank you
I don't have a specific video for this problem, but I can describe how to get the brown dial off. It is fairly common that the brown dial gets stuck on the flange adapter and won't pull off. You can spray WD40 all over everything and heat with a hairdryer and sometimes that will loosen the brown dial enough to pull it straight off. Here is a better way. With the presser bar down, turn the dial all the way left, zero tension. Take a small screwdriver or similar tool and push it into the front of the dial and into the slot of the tension stud. You will feel it hit the crossbar of the stop washer. Push just a little bit more to move the stop washer back; maybe a 1/16 inch or 1/32 inch. Hold it there and gently turn the brown dial to the left. What you have done is pushed back the stop washer which has the stop pin that the little pin inside the brown dial is hitting. By pushing the stop washer back you can turn the dial/post past the stop pin. Then you can keep turning the dial and the flange washer it is stuck to and they will come off the stud and you can remove all the other parts. The little pin inside the dial that I am talking about is shown at 19:40 in the video. When you reassemble the parts, if the flange and dial are still stuck together, you will need to push back on the stop washer again to get the post of the dial past the stop pin of the stop washer while turning it right. You may have to do that 2 or 3 times while zero out the tension assembly. If you'd like more info about tension and how to zero out the assembly, and set the stroke and tension of the take-up check spring, here is a complete playlist of 7 videos all about tension.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for your quick reply. After oiling it a couple times I eventually managed to get the brown dial off by turning it to the left. The flange was indeed married to the brown dial but once it was off the machine I was able to separate them. Once the brown dial was off it was easy to remove the rest of the assembly. I always take plenty of photos as I am dis-assembling so I can remember how to get it back together! I appreciate you Andy!
Hi Andy, I have been using your videos to take apart and clean a 500A, thanks for taking the time to record such detailed videos! Question, I have two Rocketeers and on both of them it seems as though the last two pieces of the tension unit, the flange and dial, are either one piece by design or because they are stuck together. Do you know if in any models the flange and dial were an integrated unit? I didn’t want to force them apart if they were indeed one piece. Thanks!
Hi Tracey. Every Singer 500A and 503A I have worked on had separate parts like in this video. Some of them had the last two parts stuck together like you describe. I had to remove the set screw and push my needle nose plier into the flange from the back side to try and hold it while turning the indicator knob and then the pieces came apart. I was worried I would damage the inside threads on the flange, but it did not on the ones I did (maybe 1/2 dozen or so) When I was removing the parts from the stud they had come off together as one piece. The flange and stud are aluminium (in my opinion) but the indicator dial is steel. I think maybe that is why they stuck together. I don't know if the metals reacted to each other, or expand and contract at different rates. I just remember they surely were stuck together, and at first I thought they were made that way.
I have 2 of these tension units are stuck together. The set screw removed, but top (brown) dial appears to be stuck to the inner "top hat" threaded flange. Is there a way to separate?
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much and what a clever trick (probably should have been mechanically obvious to me but I didn't think of it at all). I've now separated both stuck tensions and they are soaking in hopes that I can remove the threaded flange. But if not, they'll be clean and I can use the other video to properly reset the tensions.
Thank you Andy. You filled in what I was missing from other videos on removing my 500A’s tension. Just one question...is it had to remove the pin in the post to clean it?
Hi Mary. You mean the tension release pin, that looks like a little nail? It should slide right out the front towards you once you take the other parts off. It's steel and if oil got on it it might be sticky. A very small magnet can pull it out sometimes, or clean with alcohol and tilt the top of the machine towards you to get it to slide out. Sometimes it just slips right out before people know it and they lose it. You will see one end is flattened out so when you put it back into the stud, from the front split end, the round end of the pin goes in first and the flat end stops it from just falling out the back.
I have a 500a with the one piece brown tension number indicator. In watching all the videos I could find, it appears that this part should slide right off after the set screw is loosened. It doesn’t budge. Am I incorrect in the easy slide part? Any suggestions on why it’s stuck and what to do?
The original tension unit for the 500A with the one piece brown indicator should slide on and off and is only held by the set screw. It can be stuck onto the threaded flange though. It can have dirt, thread dust, dried oil, etc. and just be stuck on. After I REMOVE the set screw and it will not slide off, I just turn it left and remove the flange it is stuck to along with it. Soaking in warm water can soften the sticky stuff anf let you remove the flange from the indicator by holding the flange with your fingertip and turning the indicator back and forth while pulling it apart. That' has been my experience on a few of the 500A & 503A machines.
Thanks, Andy! I’ll keep trying. Whatever it’s stuck with is tougher than me so far. Wish I could patent it as a glue. I’d make a fortune! Your videos are GREAT!
Hi Andy, I've really been enjoying your channel! I've acquired a Singer 500A. I'm having trouble with the tension. The bobbin tension is all the way tight and the upper tension is all the way loose and I cannot make anymore adjustments as my tension has the bobbin thread showing on top. I would like to take apart the upper tension but after removing the set screw on the numbered dial, I am unable to remove that dial. I have not seen you, or anyone, actually remove this part on the 500A. I have only seen where the tension is already removed and being reassembled. I tried spraying inside the set screw area with WD-40 to no avail. Can you tell me how to remove this part? I am at a loss. Thanks so much!
Hi, Karen. I've had a couple of the 500A/503A tension units like this. For me, the problem has been unique to those two models. I also used the WD-40 in the screw hole and it helped on one unit enough that I could pull the combo-indicator off of the flange part. The others I tried still would not budge so I used a hairdryer on low to medium heat and blew the air into the hole in the front. one time it took a good 20 - 25 minutes. It blew the WD-40 around a little but eventually, it loosened the two pieces enough I could pull the comb-indicator off. I don't have a clue as to why the two pieces stick together sometimes; like they are glued or something. I've restored over a dozen of these models and most of them either slip right off or turning until the pin stops against the finger inside and then the combo-indicator would free up and twist/pull off of the flange. I guess persistence is the key to your success. You can do it. Thanks for watching my channel.
It has worked for me, just use gloves when try to pull it off, the front dial will get hot to the touch. After oiling and heating I have used a hook; like a nut pick with a hooked end, and put it in the screw hole to pull the dial straight of of the flange. You must be careful not to damage the screw threads in the hole. Usually I can turn to zero, push back on the +|- dial into the spring and twist of the number dial with the flange stuck inside, then hold the flange from the back with needle-nose and turn the dial to separate. A couple times I could not push the +|- back enough to clear the stop washer and twist the dial off, so out comes the hairdryer and the hook, haha. Good Luck.
Unless the head of the screw is stripped when I get the machine, I usually remove the tension stud. Since this set screw was damaged I did not remove it. The stud was installed correctly and tightly so I left it like that.
The 500A Rocketeer was the more costly one. It replaced the 401A Slant-o-matic. The 500A has a true cam stack with metal pattern cams. There is a pattern selector mechanism on top of the cam stack that allows additional plastic "Top Hat" Pattern Cams to be snapped in an out under the whole-arm flip-up cover. There are 2 dials on the front that you push & turn or pull & turn to set different patterns. Between the built-in metal pattern cams and the snap-in plastic pattern cams there are dozens of patterns available. If you like a machine with the bells & whistles this is it. The 503A Special replaced the 403A model. It does not have a true cam stack, but a shaft that holds the pattern selector mechanism that's in the 500A. There is a flip-up door that gives access so you can change the Top Hat pattern cams out, of which there are about 22 different ones. Otherwise, it has the same motor, heavy duty all metal parts, and direct drive motor-to-handwheel systems that the 500A has. If you want an incredibly engineered heavy duty machine with only a couple dozen patterns but all the strength and power, this is it. You can download a free 50-page instruction manual for model 500A here>> www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/1308_500_0.pdf You can download a free 98-page instruction manual for model 503A here>> www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/10f8b1ba3a5534c1cbfe8dda7b7ebe531c9e0ccb.pdf
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Andy - as you know I have the 221 and recently purchased a 222K I will now search for a 500-A I think that would make for a nice small and USEFUL collection. I am learning to use these machines to repair LOTS of my wife and kids clothing!
"nice small collection" I've sure heard that before, haha. Personally, I'd rather own the 403A than the 500A, but that's just my opinion. You can't go wrong with almost any metal vintage Singer machine. You have a couple "black" models' and soon maybe a beige or tan model, but what about blue or turquoise or green? Uh-oh, it's only the beginning. I love that you actually USE the machines for sewing. That is why I restore them; to keep the working. They were born to sew and love doing it.
@@andytubesewing1953 Funny you should say that as I was looking at the 403A also. Oh yes I have been using my 221 a lot - completely repaired my daughters sweater and my wife's bra strap LOL. Hopefully after I manage to get either a 403 or a 500 or??? that will be it!
@@RenaissancePeopleNYC Well, even if that is all the machines you will have some of the very best ever made by Singer. Of course, who wouldn't want a beautiful blue one? th-cam.com/video/CaCzYswaey0/w-d-xo.html Here are the other19 free videos about how to restore it, maybe for your daughter? th-cam.com/video/CaCzYswaey0/w-d-xo.html
Andy, I was watching the video, does the take up spring stay in the down position? Or do you set it on the left? I appreciate all the videos, I'm really trying to learn as much as I can. Thank you again,
Yes, it should be brought up and put on the "rest" of the thread guide. This video I was trying to explain the difference in the 401 class and 500 class tension unit. If you look at 13:08 in this video th-cam.com/video/BL5Idq17VTw/w-d-xo.html I show to just lift the spring loop up to the left and set it on the "rest". Anyone looking for more detail about tension can look at the playlist I made "All about tension": th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U.html
Thank you for ponting out about the ckeck spring position in this video. I did not mean to confuse anyone who is not familiar with Singer Tension Units. I'll pin your comment to the top in case others have the same question. Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi Andy, I've viewed a number of ur videos over the years that have been very informative n helpful. I've had problems with thread tension adjustments but haven't attempt to disasemble the tension assembly fearing the worst, not getting it back together. After watching ur step by step overhaul, I did it. What a difference it made, the machine sounds n runs so much smoother. A pandemic beginner n grinning novice that enjoys the contentment sewing brings, Thank You Very Much!🙂🙃😉
Norman, I'm really happy you decided to jump into that tension. I know how rewarding it is to fix it and sew, hear. feel the results. So many viewers have told me that they love fixing and maintaining there vintage Singer machines b/c they have trouble finding any place that will do the servicing properly or they charge so much.
I don't sew at all, but my wife and I make a good team. She sews almost every day and I help her service and repair her machines. I appreciate you taking the time to comment, and thanks for watching my channel. Take care.
Mahalo Andy, for responding to my comment . . . as u mentioned the collaboration u have with ur wife as 'the Driver n u the chief mechanic'. It might be presumptuous of me but there is no higher rewards u can get knowing she gets to enjoy the satisfaction(s) u enable by keeping her machines in tip top shape, Much Aloha to U.
Not presumptuous at all, Norman. She has been sewing for 50 years. Made her own clothes for the last 40, and makes many of my shirts. She has made wedding gowns, ball gowns, bridesmaids dresses, drapes, curtains, graduation gowns, tons of clothes for the grandkids, etc. I love hearing the sound of her sewing when I walk by the sewing room b/c I know she is doing what she loves. It's the least I can do as a small thanks for all she's has given me in my life. One of her latest things is buying brand new high end clothing at yard sales and thrift shops. for pennies on the dollar. They are usually 4X or larger but she just cuts them down to the size she wants, maybe changes the neckline or sleeve design and sews them back together. She has gifted friends and family with some of these and gets a kick when her sister, niece, nephew. etc. gets a custom fit Cole Haan or Donna Karan, Hermes, Armani, etc. piece of clothing, hehe.
WoW Andy, I was so intimidated to tackle the tension dial unit until I watched your video. As always, you do a perfect explanation. I can do it! someone (not me) made a mess of this tension unit on this 503A.
Dang right you can do it! No worries; you've got the touch for it. Poor thing with tension abuse but now saved by SuZ. Hey, that would make a great title for your video, right? "Saved by SuZ" how I repair the tension""
Thanks! I fiddled around with one long enough to get the two pieces to separate. This was my first attempt at taking apart and cleaning a VSM and wouldn’t have done it without your amazing 404 series! I was motivated to try it with your detailed instructions! They are amazing!
Oh good job! I'm glad if my videos encourage people to clean, repair ad adjust their VSM. They are just to valuable to be abandonded. I have a feeling you will enjoy yourself so much that before you know it there will be VSM #2 the #3 and so forth. I hope yu still have good thoughs about me then, haha. Take Care.
Thank you Andy, I am restoring my 503A and this was fabulous 😀.
Welcome, and thanks for saving your 503A.
Thank you very much for sharing this video!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the comment.
I have a 500A and a 503A. I need to disassemble my 400A tension & you've been very clear in your explanations. Thanks so much for your vids.
Thanks for the comment, Amy. If there are any questions with the 40aA tension unit, this short playlist was made using a 404 tension unit, which is the same as the 401A. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U.html
Take Care.
I wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your videos. I am a senior woman who loves to quilt. My present machine is a newer not expensive brother. It has trouble going over several thicknesses of fabric. Just comes to a halt. I've been researching for about a year for a machine that is very basic, straight stitch and power to go thro several thicknesses of fabric. I found the juki 2010. Its. 1000.00. I have been working odd-jobs trying to save that much. But, in my quilting group on Facebook someone mentioned a singer 301. So, I went to your sites on how to clean them, their quality and they being American made. I now own a singer 500a Rocketeer. She is beautiful. I named Christa after our only teacher in space(my daughter is a teacher also) and am more excited about my machine than if I had the juki. Number one is American made with American quality workmanship. I am still looking for a singer 301. I will find one and will name her as well. Thank you so much for the time and effort.you put into your videos. These machines need to be brought back and used. No more cheap disposable sewing machines. I am so jazzed. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing this, Mary. I glad you found my channel and feel the videos are helpful. Whew! For $1,000 you could buy 3 or 4 vintage Singer machines, haha. You can do so much with that 500A Rocketeer, and you'll love how portable that 301 is, with its build-in handle and only about 16lbs maybe? That stitch on the 301 is sure favored by quilters. A repairman once told me that the 301 stitch is the only one that looks the same on both sides. Very happy for you and thanks for getting the Singers and keeping them in service. Happy sewing.
Thanks for the video on the tensions I needed that. Thank you!
You are welcome, Carol. I'm glad if it helped. thanks for watching mycchannel.
Hey Andy, I recently bought a 503A although I have never sewn before. I am teaching myself. I wanted to let you know I am learning a lot from your video's as this one has needed a little love. I greatly appreciate that you took the time to make videos and post them. On one of your replies you stated "Personally, I'd rather own the 403A than the 500A". Why do you prefer the 403?
Thanks for saving the machine, Terry. I prefer the 403A because of its cleaner, industrial styling. I know some folks love the "futuristic" Rocketeer models styling, but to me it was a gimmick that did not improve function.
The 403A has a bobbin winder system that will just never break; I've never had a 403A with a broken BW. The 503A on the other hand has come to me many times with broken springs on the bobbin winder and it requires a special, smaller rubber friction ring.
On the 403A all you need is staring you in the face other than the smaller flip-up lid cover for changing pattern cams. Model 503A has that big, full length lid to cover the BW, the pattern cam stack and the flip-up spool pins. The felts for those spool pins are glued onto the cover and require more work to change when they get thin, versus the standard spool pin felt you can find everywhere that are on the 403A which has two spool pins on top with direct access.
They did add one mechanical feature to the 500A & 503A; the Thread Control that doesn't really help in any way, IMO. Singer never used it again after those two Rocketeer models. Some viewers have told me that the thread control system is to prevent skipped stitches when sewing knit fabrics, but I disagree b/c Singer sent an instruction sheet to bypass the thread control for knits, thread the needle path a different way, and later changed the hook on some of them. th-cam.com/video/m79nr_DHRwQ/w-d-xo.html
As I said, I know many folks love the "look" of the rocketeers and they are very very nice machines. I just appreciate form & function over styling I guess.
Thanks for watching my channel and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for your reply to the previous question. I, too, was wondering the same and it helps me to learn the ‘why’
I understand how you are putting this back together but I need help to take mine apart.
I am unable to remove the brown tension dial by pulling or turning. Yes I did remove the set screw.
Can you please make or direct me to a video on breaking down the thread tension assembly specifically on the 500 Series machines?
I have not been able to find anything that shows how to do this. Thank you
I don't have a specific video for this problem, but I can describe how to get the brown dial off.
It is fairly common that the brown dial gets stuck on the flange adapter and won't pull off. You can spray WD40 all over everything and heat with a hairdryer and sometimes that will loosen the brown dial enough to pull it straight off.
Here is a better way. With the presser bar down, turn the dial all the way left, zero tension. Take a small screwdriver or similar tool and push it into the front of the dial and into the slot of the tension stud. You will feel it hit the crossbar of the stop washer. Push just a little bit more to move the stop washer back; maybe a 1/16 inch or 1/32 inch. Hold it there and gently turn the brown dial to the left.
What you have done is pushed back the stop washer which has the stop pin that the little pin inside the brown dial is hitting. By pushing the stop washer back you can turn the dial/post past the stop pin. Then you can keep turning the dial and the flange washer it is stuck to and they will come off the stud and you can remove all the other parts.
The little pin inside the dial that I am talking about is shown at 19:40 in the video. When you reassemble the parts, if the flange and dial are still stuck together, you will need to push back on the stop washer again to get the post of the dial past the stop pin of the stop washer while turning it right. You may have to do that 2 or 3 times while zero out the tension assembly.
If you'd like more info about tension and how to zero out the assembly, and set the stroke and tension of the take-up check spring, here is a complete playlist of 7 videos all about tension.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for your quick reply. After oiling it a couple times I eventually managed to get the brown dial off by turning it to the left. The flange was indeed married to the brown dial but once it was off the machine I was able to separate them. Once the brown dial was off it was easy to remove the rest of the assembly. I always take plenty of photos as I am dis-assembling so I can remember how to get it back together! I appreciate you Andy!
Nicely done, Nancy! I'm glad you were able to move ahead. Thanks for sharing the results. Take care.
Hi Andy, I have been using your videos to take apart and clean a 500A, thanks for taking the time to record such detailed videos! Question, I have two Rocketeers and on both of them it seems as though the last two pieces of the tension unit, the flange and dial, are either one piece by design or because they are stuck together. Do you know if in any models the flange and dial were an integrated unit? I didn’t want to force them apart if they were indeed one piece. Thanks!
Hi Tracey. Every Singer 500A and 503A I have worked on had separate parts like in this video. Some of them had the last two parts stuck together like you describe. I had to remove the set screw and push my needle nose plier into the flange from the back side to try and hold it while turning the indicator knob and then the pieces came apart. I was worried I would damage the inside threads on the flange, but it did not on the ones I did (maybe 1/2 dozen or so) When I was removing the parts from the stud they had come off together as one piece. The flange and stud are aluminium (in my opinion) but the indicator dial is steel. I think maybe that is why they stuck together. I don't know if the metals reacted to each other, or expand and contract at different rates. I just remember they surely were stuck together, and at first I thought they were made that way.
I have 2 of these tension units are stuck together. The set screw removed, but top (brown) dial appears to be stuck to the inner "top hat" threaded flange. Is there a way to separate?
I made a video with some suggestions for fixing it. th-cam.com/video/woJraVBSWcI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much and what a clever trick (probably should have been mechanically obvious to me but I didn't think of it at all). I've now separated both stuck tensions and they are soaking in hopes that I can remove the threaded flange. But if not, they'll be clean and I can use the other video to properly reset the tensions.
Thank you Andy. You filled in what I was missing from other videos on removing my 500A’s tension.
Just one question...is it had to remove the pin in the post to clean it?
Hi Mary. You mean the tension release pin, that looks like a little nail? It should slide right out the front towards you once you take the other parts off. It's steel and if oil got on it it might be sticky. A very small magnet can pull it out sometimes, or clean with alcohol and tilt the top of the machine towards you to get it to slide out. Sometimes it just slips right out before people know it and they lose it. You will see one end is flattened out so when you put it back into the stud, from the front split end, the round end of the pin goes in first and the flat end stops it from just falling out the back.
I have a 500a with the one piece brown tension number indicator. In watching all the videos I could find, it appears that this part should slide right off after the set screw is loosened. It doesn’t budge. Am I incorrect in the easy slide part? Any suggestions on why it’s stuck and what to do?
The original tension unit for the 500A with the one piece brown indicator should slide on and off and is only held by the set screw. It can be stuck onto the threaded flange though. It can have dirt, thread dust, dried oil, etc. and just be stuck on. After I REMOVE the set screw and it will not slide off, I just turn it left and remove the flange it is stuck to along with it. Soaking in warm water can soften the sticky stuff anf let you remove the flange from the indicator by holding the flange with your fingertip and turning the indicator back and forth while pulling it apart. That' has been my experience on a few of the 500A & 503A machines.
Thanks, Andy! I’ll keep trying. Whatever it’s stuck with is tougher than me so far. Wish I could patent it as a glue. I’d make a fortune! Your videos are GREAT!
Hi Andy, I've really been enjoying your channel! I've acquired a Singer 500A. I'm having trouble with the tension. The bobbin tension is all the way tight and the upper tension is all the way loose and I cannot make anymore adjustments as my tension has the bobbin thread showing on top. I would like to take apart the upper tension but after removing the set screw on the numbered dial, I am unable to remove that dial. I have not seen you, or anyone, actually remove this part on the 500A. I have only seen where the tension is already removed and being reassembled. I tried spraying inside the set screw area with WD-40 to no avail. Can you tell me how to remove this part? I am at a loss. Thanks so much!
Hi, Karen. I've had a couple of the 500A/503A tension units like this. For me, the problem has been unique to those two models. I also used the WD-40 in the screw hole and it helped on one unit enough that I could pull the combo-indicator off of the flange part. The others I tried still would not budge so I used a hairdryer on low to medium heat and blew the air into the hole in the front. one time it took a good 20 - 25 minutes. It blew the WD-40 around a little but eventually, it loosened the two pieces enough I could pull the comb-indicator off. I don't have a clue as to why the two pieces stick together sometimes; like they are glued or something. I've restored over a dozen of these models and most of them either slip right off or turning until the pin stops against the finger inside and then the combo-indicator would free up and twist/pull off of the flange. I guess persistence is the key to your success. You can do it.
Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much, Andy. I will keep trying, probably with the hairdryer.
It has worked for me, just use gloves when try to pull it off, the front dial will get hot to the touch. After oiling and heating I have used a hook; like a nut pick with a hooked end, and put it in the screw hole to pull the dial straight of of the flange. You must be careful not to damage the screw threads in the hole. Usually I can turn to zero, push back on the +|- dial into the spring and twist of the number dial with the flange stuck inside, then hold the flange from the back with needle-nose and turn the dial to separate. A couple times I could not push the +|- back enough to clear the stop washer and twist the dial off, so out comes the hairdryer and the hook, haha. Good Luck.
Were you able to remove & replace the tension stud set screw?
Unless the head of the screw is stripped when I get the machine, I usually remove the tension stud. Since this set screw was damaged I did not remove it. The stud was installed correctly and tightly so I left it like that.
Hola puedes mostrar de la singer 237, gracias
Hola Roxy. Lo siento, no tengo una máquina 237 en este momento.
are there any significant differences between the 500A and 5003A?
The 500A Rocketeer was the more costly one. It replaced the 401A Slant-o-matic. The 500A has a true cam stack with metal pattern cams. There is a pattern selector mechanism on top of the cam stack that allows additional plastic "Top Hat" Pattern Cams to be snapped in an out under the whole-arm flip-up cover. There are 2 dials on the front that you push & turn or pull & turn to set different patterns. Between the built-in metal pattern cams and the snap-in plastic pattern cams there are dozens of patterns available. If you like a machine with the bells & whistles this is it. The 503A Special replaced the 403A model. It does not have a true cam stack, but a shaft that holds the pattern selector mechanism that's in the 500A. There is a flip-up door that gives access so you can change the Top Hat pattern cams out, of which there are about 22 different ones. Otherwise, it has the same motor, heavy duty all metal parts, and direct drive motor-to-handwheel systems that the 500A has. If you want an incredibly engineered heavy duty machine with only a couple dozen patterns but all the strength and power, this is it.
You can download a free 50-page instruction manual for model 500A here>> www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/1308_500_0.pdf
You can download a free 98-page instruction manual for model 503A here>> www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/10f8b1ba3a5534c1cbfe8dda7b7ebe531c9e0ccb.pdf
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Andy - as you know I have the 221 and recently purchased a 222K I will now search for a 500-A I think that would make for a nice small and USEFUL collection. I am learning to use these machines to repair LOTS of my wife and kids clothing!
"nice small collection" I've sure heard that before, haha. Personally, I'd rather own the 403A than the 500A, but that's just my opinion. You can't go wrong with almost any metal vintage Singer machine. You have a couple "black" models' and soon maybe a beige or tan model, but what about blue or turquoise or green? Uh-oh, it's only the beginning. I love that you actually USE the machines for sewing. That is why I restore them; to keep the working. They were born to sew and love doing it.
@@andytubesewing1953 Funny you should say that as I was looking at the 403A also. Oh yes I have been using my 221 a lot - completely repaired my daughters sweater and my wife's bra strap LOL. Hopefully after I manage to get either a 403 or a 500 or??? that will be it!
@@RenaissancePeopleNYC Well, even if that is all the machines you will have some of the very best ever made by Singer. Of course, who wouldn't want a beautiful blue one?
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Here are the other19 free videos about how to restore it, maybe for your daughter? th-cam.com/video/CaCzYswaey0/w-d-xo.html