Matthew! My neighbors in the mid 70's used to hear me screaming and pounding on my SINGER 500 for this exact reason. I can't tell you how many projects were ruined and my repair guy didn't have a clue! Wonderful tutorial!!!!!
I did everything you could imagine to correct this problem. Then I found this fix exchanging emails with a old retired Singer repairman. I knew the delint pin was not required.
Thank you, Matthew. I've discussed removing the delint pin with a handful of people, but this is the first time I've seen/heard of it in a video. It's valuable info based on the number of complaints I have heard of skipping and thread tangles on the Rocketeer models. I appreciate that you took the time to make this video.
The Singer 500 machine was made in 1961-63 and most Singer dealers invited the purchasers to bring the machine in and have a revised retention finger and hook installed, along with a timing adjustment. This coincided with the newer trend to sew in bonded knit fabrics. My beloved grandmother purchased one in 1961 and I own it. It has the modification and I cannot fathom why there are machines "floating around" without the singer modification. This was offered by singer dealers for the 401- 403- 500 and 503 machines to eliminate jamming and thread tangling..
Thank you! Spot on. After watching the video several times and wrestling with the machine all day I finally got it! Sews a nice zig zag now. No jams no skips. 🎉
Hi Matthew. Thought I had it fixed. Stitches well for about 4” then goes wonky and jams. Appreciate any suggestions. Did everything you suggested on the video.
Matthew! Thank you so much for this video! I really really wanted to love my 500A, but it kept jamming. I took pics of the jam and took it to the local family-owned-for-decades repair shop and he cleaned it, greased it and said it was all fixed. Nope. Took it back jammed so he could see it, he “fixed” it again and said I’d have no more trouble. It jammed in less than five minutes. Frustrated, I went to the Rocketeer group on Facebook and learned of your video. Today, I fixed my machine, thanks to you and Andy Tube. I can finally love my machine! Oh! And I didn’t have to dremel anything. I just pulled out that tiny pin with pliers. Voila! I can’t believe such a little thing caused such grief!
Update: My wife just changed the thread, the other was older thin polyester. She put in a new spool of slightly thicker thread, adjusted the upped tension slightly, and installed a new needle. It's sewing great on a 5 Zig Zag. Thanks again for your video.
Thanks for the info! I have been working on a cabinet for a 401A. It is catching thread on the delint pin. I am going to try a few things before I remove it.
@@OutFishing13Matthew We bought a 401A to fix up for my wife's aunt. It wouldn't even sew due to being out of time. I did an Andy modified SPA treatment and adjusted the timing. It was sewing but skipping stitches on anything 3 or over zig zag. Then she changed thread, needle, and upper tension and it''s great. Going to deliver it tomorrow. Good luck.
Greetings Mathew, and happy new year 2022. Hoping you are in good health.✨ I stopped by to thank you again for this great video. I just referred another viewer to it for help with their Rocketeer stitching problems. This fix is not always what caused their problem, but it often has been and they are relieved to find a solution after all the other things they tried. Take care.
@@OutFishing13Matthew Glad to hear you are still into the VSM. By far the folks who complained about the problem were owners of a Rocketeer 500A or 503A.
@@andytubesewing1953 I assume the "modification" parts are no longer available.. In the early 1960's Singer dealers invited clients back to have a modification done on the Slant-O-Matic machines. There was a kit with a different hook, retention finger and timing adjustment. This coincided with the trend to sew in the new bonded knit fabrics and changes in threads.
Thank you, I was actually looking for a fix for a different issue when your title caught my eye. I have a 503a with the thread catching in the same spot, I could watch it catch and I would think, this can't be right, the thread shouldn't be catching here. Your video explained what the problem is and how to fix it. I haven't done the fix yet but I will and I will watch your video when I do. Thank you!
Thanks for the video! I didn't have the skip stitch, but went through your instructions... The de-lint pin on mine had already been removed. I learned more about my 500 though, so thank you very much!
Very nicely done Mathew. Seems as if Singer made the 500 series just a little more complicated than the 400 series. The "de-lint" pin follows "thread control" into improvements that proved to be unnecessary and led to stitching problems. Thanks for the upload.
Thanks. I hope that other 500a owners find and implement the fix. I can sew any type of fabric with any type of thread now and it never misses a stitch. I just about gave up on it. And 8 tried everything. Deburred the hook and bobbin case. Set the timing. Set the thread gap. I bugged Andy Tube a bunch. Went to every forum I could find mentioning the same problem. Then it finally dawned on me that this pin was an issue and I learned that it didn't need to be there. So I bought another position finger on Ebay and made the modification. What a great day to be able to sew without a jam! More than anything I just wanted to solve the problem.
@@1953childstar I have heard about this. It was called a knit kit. An old Singer service tech told me about the new hook. Mine has the new hook without the cross brace, but the position finger still had the delint pin. He told me the kit had instructions to grind off the delint pin, but it also makes sense, that a position finger ca,e without a delint pin. I would like the new timing instructions. I tinkered with my timing a little until it sewed properly straight when moving the needle from all the way left to all the way right.
My mother sewed on one of these in the early 60's, it got lost somewhere along the way. I just found one for $40, and I bought just for nostalgia. It's the second newest machine I own and will be put back in shape to go back to sewing. great video
I recently acquired a 403a that I had the rotating hook out because it was seized. While I had the hook out I noticed that it also has the de-lint pin. I wound up heaving it in. If I have a problem, at least now I know what to do. I also have a 500a and a 503a, great machines. I also had to repair the top hinge pins on both the 500a and 503a nose doors. People just don't know how to handle them. Thanks for posting this video.
I have seen the 401a with and without the delint pin. I know this fixed my issue. Some work well and never have a problem with the delint pin. I wish I had the answer. Thanks for commenting
@@1953childstar Nice! I use my old 500a all the time. I have heard that some machines work great with the delint pin and some are just gremlins. I still have the block with the pin if I ever want to put it back.
Excellent video and explanation you need to check you foot pedal you are turn the hand wheel to start the motor adjust the carbon adjusting screw it will work better ,I learn from you video thank you!!!!!!!!
I changed the pedal to an electronic one. It works better with that one. But I need to clean the motor armature at some point too. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I own a 401a and I truly feel that it , along with the 201, are two of the greatest masterpieces of Singer's history! I can sew knits of any kind on my 401 but get nothing but skipped stitching from my Rocketeer. Many say both machines are identical internally , but I feel that there was some type of screw-up when the 500a was created. Whats funny is that I was told by a service man that I would experience problems sewing fleece and other knits when using the Rocketeer, but I was so taken with the streamlined beauty of it that I had to own one! Boy was he right!! I can't get this machine to sew a consistent zig-zag stitch to save my life!!
I have worked on both the 401a and the 500a a bit. The 401a and the 500a are nearly exactly the same. But the 500a has the additional delint pin on the Position Finger. I have a 500a "Rocketeer" that I sew with a lot and all of the stitches work flawlessly on all sorts of fabric. I hope you can get yours figured out. Singer came out with a Knit Kit in the 1970s. I wonder if yours never had the kit installed.
Hi Matthew, thank you for your detailed video on how to fix this problem. I am encouraged by your clear instructions to take this on myself instead of paying one of these repair shops that take your money and just oil the machine instead of fixing the problem. My question is this: reading thru the comments below, I get the feeling that you can just simply remove that delint doodad instead of filing the problem area with a Dremel. Which do you recommend? Will the machine run if you remove that delint pin altogether?
If you are able to take some plyers and remove the delint pint, I would recommend doing only that. The delint pint is not required for the machine to run. I talked to an old repair man who told me Singer recommended that the delint pin be removed as part of the repair for the "Knit Kit".
Very interesting and wondering if my bad part was manufactured on a Friday. Having to take my relic to a local repair shop because I'm not sure I can do it myself. Poop....!!! Going to take this video to the shop so that maybe it adds a little credence to what you have posted. Frustrating is the word.....!!!
Singer revised the hook and the position finger to eliminate this situation… I have no idea if there are any "kits" floating about.. Singer dealers usually contacted the purchaser and invited them in to have the modification. This coincided with the advent of bonded lints for the home sewer..
Thanks for the video. Andy Tube sent me here. I removed the de-lint pin on the 401A, but it is still skipping stitches in Zig Zag on anything over a 3. I'll keep trying. I'm guessing I only have to remove the pin, not grind down and polish the corner? like you did on the broken piece. Thanks again.
Hey there. Thanks for the comment. The issue with the skipping stitches may be a timing thing. I fixed a 500A for my son that was doing the same thing. I had to advance the timing just a tiny bit to get it to sew in zigzag well and also putting the needle all the way to the left or right.
This was a huge help! I did what you did, but I’m still having problems with my thread breaking. It also wraps around the bobbin case. Do you think this a tension spring problem or a I need a new bobbin case? I know it’s hard to answer that without seeing it firsthand.
Hi Vicki, Thanks for contacting me. I don't think you need a new bobbin case, but sometimes little burrs can grab thread on the main bobbin case, but primarily on the shuttle hook. I would not recommend any of the new bobbin cases out there for a 500A since they will not fit properly. The bobbin case can get sharp little burrs from the rotation of the shuttle after a million times. Also, the 500a has a rotating hook shuttle and can get needle strikes creating a burr which can pick up thread and cause the problem you are talking about. This can be cured though. Using very fine wet/dry sandpaper (600 to 1200 grit) you can carefully feel for sharp edges on the bobbin case and sand them down ever so carefully. Then feel for needle strikes on the shuttle hook and carefully sand them out. Andy Tube has information on that. Here is one of his videos which has information about restoring the hook with any needle strikes. th-cam.com/video/us1sHv1-2Kc/w-d-xo.html
The 503A problem of thread tangle on the pin/position finger. I removed the little roll pin and for a while I thought it was fixed. Things will be going fine and a loop from the needle thread will hang on the lower edge of the position finger where the pin was. It will then keep on making stitches, but the cloth is stuck. I have gone over the adjustments so many times I have the specs memorized. After studying this problem, I keep going back to my initial thought that if the needle thread gets that far around something else had gone wrong. It seems that the thread must begin to release from the hook at 180 degrees from the needle and the take up must occur quickly. The hook makes two revolutions per stitch or one cycle of the needle, so a small adjustment can make a huge difference. To experiment (with two needles installed) I timed the hook to the right needle which makes the hook arrive at the 180 degree/release position a little later and the take up process is a bit farther along. Needle bar adjustment still at factory setting. I have made 100 + covid mask with no problem. The mask project is short runs and slow so to test I used a bed sheet three layers at full speed multiple times no tangle. It makes great stitches with two needles or one in right, center, or left position sewing fast or slow, long, or short stitches, and it will zigzag. My theory is the thread did not release or so late a loop could tangle before the take up could pull up all the thread used to circle the bobbin. I know this is not what the service manual tells us to do, but this remines me when I worked for two auto companies. We would receive our service manuals for a new vehicle and someone in the field would discover a better way to adj something and they would send out technical bulletin for a new procedure but never revise the oringal manual. Thank you for all the videos and I would welcome your opinion of my theory.
You must be on to something. Recently I worked on this 500a for my son when it was skipping stitches. We timed it a little slow and set the needle/hook gap at basically .000. Then we tested it on zigzag and made some minor timing adjustments in the timing until the stitches were perfect. I think the manual is right 90% of the time, but then there's are machines which need a custom setting that is a little different to work.
@@OutFishing13Matthew A little fun fact I just discovered the tiny length of thread used to make each stich has gone around the hook under and over the bobbin 3-4 times before it will show up in the fabric. I used white thread and marked it black just as it entered the needle. Turn by hand and watched it. My point of this, when one of these tangles occurs the thread is over stretched and damaged all the back up the machine. Over stretched thread makes it easy to tangle again.
Singer revised the hook and position finger for the Slant-O-Matic machines.. Most dealers invited the purchasers back for the modification.. I do not understand why there are so many machines "floating around" without the modification..
I have a 500j and a 503j. The 503 is noticeably noisier. I believe the sound is coming form the bobbin area. Occasionally, it will miss a stitch sewing light leather, and once in a while on other materials. I've checked/adjusted the thread clearance, checked/cleaned/adjusted the thread tension-er. It has a tendency to fray some types of thread, more so the heavier ones. I've used denim needles, and leather needles, with little change. The bobbin area remains noisier on the 503 than the 500. The noise can be heard as the thread passes over the bobbin holder area, and the bobbin holder moves slightly, within the clearance tolerances. Can this delint pin lead to a noise in this area, and possible the tendency for thread to be frayed/damaged? The pin appears to be intact and in position on this machine. Thanks for any advice you may have.
Hi Jay. You have a great question. First make sure it is cleaned and delinted and oiled. There are some things that may be going on. First, it is possible the hook has some needle strikes on it and some burrs. I suggest watching Andy Tube and this video on removing burrs from a rotary style hook. That may help with the fraying of the thread. Second , it is possible that the bottom of the rotor is worn allowing the bobbin to sit down farther than when new and the thread bounces it up a bit when the bobbin thread is carried under the bobbin on each stitch. Stop using the metal type 66 bobbing. Start using a good quality plastic bobbin. I don't know if the delint pin would make that noise, when the thread gets stuck on the delint pin you know! It sews about 10 more stitches and jams. Like I said, some work well with the delint pin and some don't I don't know why, but i have only worked on 3 of these machines. I am a novice, but I was determined to fix mine. You can buy and replace the rotary hook with a used one and see if that will help. But that may mean retiming your hook and needle, but it may be worth it if that hook is worn out. Consult with Andy Tube. He is a treasure trove of knowledge and may have some other ideas.
@@OutFishing13Matthew Well' I removed the delint pin on the 503j. Checked timing, adjusted thread clearance again, etc. Also, installed a plastic bobbin. The machine sounds similar to before. I tried several stitches- mostly straight and a couple of other basic ones. The unit seemed to work alright, but I feel it could be a bit better, in light leather. It will sew it, but continues to miss the odd stitch. I took a video with my iphone (slow-mo). You can see the bobbin jump up a bit, as the thread passes over the bobbin holder. Not real sure how much movement is normal here, (or sound for that matter), but I can hear that it is louder than a 401, and my other machine, a 500j. I'll keep digging into this, maybe I'll end up trying a new hook if I can get my hands on one. And thanks very much for taking the time to offer your input and advice. I appreciate it!
Mathew, do you have any idea how to adjust the tension on this machine. I've adjusted til I have a headache. My upper tension is too tight. I've loosened it and loosened, to no avail.
Hi Francine, I do, but it would be hard to explain. I recommend you watch Andy Tube. He has videos all about the tension units. What I learned about these machines, I learned from Andy Tube.
All the "Slant-O- Matic" machines are sensitive to tension issues.. It takes a bit of tedious patience to adjust. The most important issue is to "0" out the upper tension properly..
my stitch length is stuck and will not change as I turn the dial, I have a singer 6110 can you suggest any videos out there that may help me fix it? Thankyou so much for your help!!
Have you tried the Andytube channel? Andy has a ton of videos on Singers. Not really sure if he has one on a 6110. Is this and old machine you just started using or baught recently? My guess is the mechanisms to adjust the dog movement is jammed up with dried up oil. Your machine probably needs a good cleaning. Try using some PB Plaster penetrating oil very liberally on the inside and under the bottom. That will help free us stuck parts.
I recommend you look up AndyTube. He has very detailed service videos on the 500a. You need to clean and lube the cam stack and all the adjusters under the lid. Use something like JB Blaster to get it cleaned and then lube it. Next you need to lube the thread tension rod. That is probably gummed up too. That is the rod that let's the thead tensioner in and out when you lift the foot up and down. The rod is gummed up.
Help!!!!!! I accidentally knocked one of the thread spools into the machine!!! Is one of the White ones the close down when the lid shuts. Idk how to o open the top to fetch it out!!!! I just bought her and she is so in near mint condition, so beautiful but now I'm afraid I killed her or she won't work now! Please help me of you know how to take the top off!!! God bless you!!!
Hi Jeniffer. Oops. I can see that happening. There are two screw under the flip top lid. One on each end of the main lid. Use a flat screwdriver to remove those. Be careful not to drop off the little door on the end. Then turn your machine upside down and get that little white spool pin out.
Hi, Can you please do a tutorial on retiming the machine, i just recently got mine and i think the timing is messed up, it keeps tangling under the foot plate/bobbin area and jamming whenever i sew.
If it was working before you changed the needle, then more than likely it is the needle that is the problem. My guess is you did not get the needle all the way up in the needle bar. Take the needle out. Unscrew the little nut just a little. The flat side of the shank of the needle should be toward the back (the little groove on the needle should be facing forward). MAKE SURE your needle is inserted in the needle bar all the way up inside and then tighten the needle nut. Try again. What happened is the needle was not in far enough and it was getting stuck in the hook. That will fix it I am sure.
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Matthew! My neighbors in the mid 70's used to hear me screaming and pounding on my SINGER 500 for this exact reason. I can't tell you how many projects were ruined and my repair guy didn't have a clue! Wonderful tutorial!!!!!
I did everything you could imagine to correct this problem. Then I found this fix exchanging emails with a old retired Singer repairman. I knew the delint pin was not required.
Thank you, Matthew. I've discussed removing the delint pin with a handful of people, but this is the first time I've seen/heard of it in a video.
It's valuable info based on the number of complaints I have heard of skipping and thread tangles on the Rocketeer models. I appreciate that you took the time to make this video.
Glad it was helpful!
The Singer 500 machine was made in 1961-63 and most Singer dealers invited the purchasers to bring the machine in and have a revised retention finger and hook installed, along with a timing adjustment. This coincided with the newer trend to sew in bonded knit fabrics. My beloved grandmother purchased one in 1961 and I own it. It has the modification and I cannot fathom why there are machines "floating around" without the singer modification. This was offered by singer dealers for the 401- 403- 500 and 503 machines to eliminate jamming and thread tangling..
Thank you! Spot on. After watching the video several times and wrestling with the machine all day I finally got it! Sews a nice zig zag now. No jams no skips. 🎉
Congradulations. Enjoy your machine!
Thank you for the video! I have a 500a that kept jamming. It had the pin and once we removed it the jamming stopped.
Good job! I don't quite understand why some work and some don't. I think it has alot to do with the thread needle and type of fabric.
Hi Matthew. Thought I had it fixed. Stitches well for about 4” then goes wonky and jams. Appreciate any suggestions. Did everything you suggested on the video.
@franfrom9210 one thing you can look for is burrs and needle strikes on the rotating hook. Look for a video on that with Andy Tube
@franfrom9210 I wonder if it is possible that the thread pickup lever is out of time.
@@OutFishing13Matthew it sews a nice straight seam without jams. Just seams with zig zag motion including the special stitches.
Matthew! Thank you so much for this video! I really really wanted to love my 500A, but it kept jamming. I took pics of the jam and took it to the local family-owned-for-decades repair shop and he cleaned it, greased it and said it was all fixed. Nope. Took it back jammed so he could see it, he “fixed” it again and said I’d have no more trouble. It jammed in less than five minutes. Frustrated, I went to the Rocketeer group on Facebook and learned of your video. Today, I fixed my machine, thanks to you and Andy Tube. I can finally love my machine! Oh! And I didn’t have to dremel anything. I just pulled out that tiny pin with pliers. Voila! I can’t believe such a little thing caused such grief!
what a great story! thanks for sharing your experience.
I like how the machine sounds smoother as you continue sewing. Thank you for the tutorial😊
Thanks for watching!
Update: My wife just changed the thread, the other was older thin polyester. She put in a new spool of slightly thicker thread, adjusted the upped tension slightly, and installed a new needle. It's sewing great on a 5 Zig Zag. Thanks again for your video.
Thanks for the info! I have been working on a cabinet for a 401A. It is catching thread on the delint pin. I am going to try a few things before I remove it.
@@OutFishing13Matthew We bought a 401A to fix up for my wife's aunt. It wouldn't even sew due to being out of time. I did an Andy modified SPA treatment and adjusted the timing. It was sewing but skipping stitches on anything 3 or over zig zag. Then she changed thread, needle, and upper tension and it''s great. Going to deliver it tomorrow. Good luck.
Greetings Mathew, and happy new year 2022. Hoping you are in good health.✨ I stopped by to thank you again for this great video. I just referred another viewer to it for help with their Rocketeer stitching problems. This fix is not always what caused their problem, but it often has been and they are relieved to find a solution after all the other things they tried. Take care.
I have fixed two machines this way. I have a new to me 400a I am working on. It too has a delint pin, but no skipping problem so far.
@@OutFishing13Matthew Glad to hear you are still into the VSM. By far the folks who complained about the problem were owners of a Rocketeer 500A or 503A.
@@andytubesewing1953 I assume the "modification" parts are no longer available.. In the early 1960's Singer dealers invited clients back to have a modification done on the Slant-O-Matic machines. There was a kit with a different hook, retention finger and timing adjustment. This coincided with the trend to sew in the new bonded knit fabrics and changes in threads.
Thank you, I was actually looking for a fix for a different issue when your title caught my eye. I have a 503a with the thread catching in the same spot, I could watch it catch and I would think, this can't be right, the thread shouldn't be catching here. Your video explained what the problem is and how to fix it. I haven't done the fix yet but I will and I will watch your video when I do. Thank you!
Glad I could help
Thanks for the video! I didn't have the skip stitch, but went through your instructions... The de-lint pin on mine had already been removed. I learned more about my 500 though, so thank you very much!
Glad it helped! Those darn de-lint pins. Sometimes machines work with them, some don't. I am so glad I found that fix since I love this machine.
Very nicely done Mathew. Seems as if Singer made the 500 series just a little more complicated than the 400 series. The "de-lint" pin follows "thread control" into improvements that proved to be unnecessary and led to stitching problems. Thanks for the upload.
Thanks. I hope that other 500a owners find and implement the fix. I can sew any type of fabric with any type of thread now and it never misses a stitch. I just about gave up on it. And 8 tried everything. Deburred the hook and bobbin case. Set the timing. Set the thread gap. I bugged Andy Tube a bunch. Went to every forum I could find mentioning the same problem. Then it finally dawned on me that this pin was an issue and I learned that it didn't need to be there. So I bought another position finger on Ebay and made the modification. What a great day to be able to sew without a jam! More than anything I just wanted to solve the problem.
@@1953childstar interesting. I would like to see those service instructions
@@1953childstar I have heard about this. It was called a knit kit. An old Singer service tech told me about the new hook. Mine has the new hook without the cross brace, but the position finger still had the delint pin. He told me the kit had instructions to grind off the delint pin, but it also makes sense, that a position finger ca,e without a delint pin. I would like the new timing instructions. I tinkered with my timing a little until it sewed properly straight when moving the needle from all the way left to all the way right.
The # 401 machines also had a "de-lint" pin….
My mother sewed on one of these in the early 60's, it got lost somewhere along the way. I just found one for $40, and I bought just for nostalgia. It's the second newest machine I own and will be put back in shape to go back to sewing. great video
I use mine all the time! such a great machine!
You are a wonderful sewing machine mechanic
Wow, thank you
I recently acquired a 403a that I had the rotating hook out because it was seized. While I had the hook out I noticed that it also has the de-lint pin. I wound up heaving it in. If I have a problem, at least now I know what to do. I also have a 500a and a 503a, great machines. I also had to repair the top hinge pins on both the 500a and 503a nose doors. People just don't know how to handle them. Thanks for posting this video.
I have seen the 401a with and without the delint pin. I know this fixed my issue. Some work well and never have a problem with the delint pin. I wish I had the answer. Thanks for commenting
@@OutFishing13Matthew If you see a # 401 without the pin, it was removed.. Since the the first one made in 1956, they have had the de-lint pin..
@@1953childstar that's good to know
@@OutFishing13Matthew I have # 32 out of one million produced and it has the pin ( and other cool features )..
@@1953childstar Nice! I use my old 500a all the time. I have heard that some machines work great with the delint pin and some are just gremlins. I still have the block with the pin if I ever want to put it back.
Excellent video and explanation you need to check you foot pedal you are turn the hand wheel to start the motor adjust the carbon adjusting screw it will work better ,I learn from you video thank you!!!!!!!!
I changed the pedal to an electronic one. It works better with that one. But I need to clean the motor armature at some point too. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I own a 401a and I truly feel that it , along with the 201, are two of the greatest masterpieces of Singer's history! I can sew knits of any kind on my 401 but get nothing but skipped stitching from my Rocketeer. Many say both machines are identical internally , but I feel that there was some type of screw-up when the 500a was created. Whats funny is that I was told by a service man that I would experience problems sewing fleece and other knits when using the Rocketeer, but I was so taken with the streamlined beauty of it that I had to own one! Boy was he right!! I can't get this machine to sew a consistent zig-zag stitch to save my life!!
I have worked on both the 401a and the 500a a bit. The 401a and the 500a are nearly exactly the same. But the 500a has the additional delint pin on the Position Finger. I have a 500a "Rocketeer" that I sew with a lot and all of the stitches work flawlessly on all sorts of fabric. I hope you can get yours figured out. Singer came out with a Knit Kit in the 1970s. I wonder if yours never had the kit installed.
@@OutFishing13Matthew All of the # 401 machines came from the factory with a "de-lint" pin.. If they do not have it, it was removed by a "mechanic"..
@@1953childstar thanks for the comment! Mine had a major issue with this problem. I was able to resolve it and it has worked perfectly ever since.
Glad I subbed. My wife will love this.
Thanks for the sub! I hope it help many 500a owners.
Thank you, Matthew. Great video with excellent instructions! I like your style! I'm hoping you have done some videos for the 401a as well!
I have t. Andy Tube has comprehensive repair videos on the 401a
Awesome Video!🎥
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi Matthew, thank you for your detailed video on how to fix this problem. I am encouraged by your clear instructions to take this on myself instead of paying one of these repair shops that take your money and just oil the machine instead of fixing the problem. My question is this: reading thru the comments below, I get the feeling that you can just simply remove that delint doodad instead of filing the problem area with a Dremel. Which do you recommend? Will the machine run if you remove that delint pin altogether?
If you are able to take some plyers and remove the delint pint, I would recommend doing only that. The delint pint is not required for the machine to run. I talked to an old repair man who told me Singer recommended that the delint pin be removed as part of the repair for the "Knit Kit".
Very interesting and wondering if my bad part was manufactured on a Friday. Having to take my relic to a local repair shop because I'm not sure I can do it myself. Poop....!!! Going to take this video to the shop so that maybe it adds a little credence to what you have posted. Frustrating is the word.....!!!
Hope everything works out
Singer revised the hook and the position finger to eliminate this situation… I have no idea if there are any "kits" floating about.. Singer dealers usually contacted the purchaser and invited them in to have the modification. This coincided with the advent of bonded lints for the home sewer..
Thanks for the video. Andy Tube sent me here. I removed the de-lint pin on the 401A, but it is still skipping stitches in Zig Zag on anything over a 3. I'll keep trying. I'm guessing I only have to remove the pin, not grind down and polish the corner? like you did on the broken piece. Thanks again.
Hey there. Thanks for the comment. The issue with the skipping stitches may be a timing thing. I fixed a 500A for my son that was doing the same thing. I had to advance the timing just a tiny bit to get it to sew in zigzag well and also putting the needle all the way to the left or right.
This was a huge help! I did what you did, but I’m still having problems with my thread breaking. It also wraps around the bobbin case. Do you think this a tension spring problem or a I need a new bobbin case? I know it’s hard to answer that without seeing it firsthand.
Hi Vicki, Thanks for contacting me. I don't think you need a new bobbin case, but sometimes little burrs can grab thread on the main bobbin case, but primarily on the shuttle hook. I would not recommend any of the new bobbin cases out there for a 500A since they will not fit properly. The bobbin case can get sharp little burrs from the rotation of the shuttle after a million times. Also, the 500a has a rotating hook shuttle and can get needle strikes creating a burr which can pick up thread and cause the problem you are talking about. This can be cured though. Using very fine wet/dry sandpaper (600 to 1200 grit) you can carefully feel for sharp edges on the bobbin case and sand them down ever so carefully. Then feel for needle strikes on the shuttle hook and carefully sand them out. Andy Tube has information on that. Here is one of his videos which has information about restoring the hook with any needle strikes. th-cam.com/video/us1sHv1-2Kc/w-d-xo.html
@@OutFishing13Matthew I"m having the same problem....
The 503A problem of thread tangle on the pin/position finger. I removed the little roll pin and for a while I thought it was fixed. Things will be going fine and a loop from the needle thread will hang on the lower edge of the position finger where the pin was. It will then keep on making stitches, but the cloth is stuck. I have gone over the adjustments so many times I have the specs memorized. After studying this problem, I keep going back to my initial thought that if the needle thread gets that far around something else had gone wrong. It seems that the thread must begin to release from the hook at 180 degrees from the needle and the take up must occur quickly. The hook makes two revolutions per stitch or one cycle of the needle, so a small adjustment can make a huge difference. To experiment (with two needles installed) I timed the hook to the right needle which makes the hook arrive at the 180 degree/release position a little later and the take up process is a bit farther along. Needle bar adjustment still at factory setting. I have made 100 + covid mask with no problem. The mask project is short runs and slow so to test I used a bed sheet three layers at full speed multiple times no tangle. It makes great stitches with two needles or one in right, center, or left position sewing fast or slow, long, or short stitches, and it will zigzag. My theory is the thread did not release or so late a loop could tangle before the take up could pull up all the thread used to circle the bobbin. I know this is not what the service manual tells us to do, but this remines me when I worked for two auto companies. We would receive our service manuals for a new vehicle and someone in the field would discover a better way to adj something and they would send out technical bulletin for a new procedure but never revise the oringal manual. Thank you for all the videos and I would welcome your opinion of my theory.
You must be on to something. Recently I worked on this 500a for my son when it was skipping stitches. We timed it a little slow and set the needle/hook gap at basically .000. Then we tested it on zigzag and made some minor timing adjustments in the timing until the stitches were perfect. I think the manual is right 90% of the time, but then there's are machines which need a custom setting that is a little different to work.
@@OutFishing13Matthew
A little fun fact I just discovered the tiny length of thread used to make each stich has gone around the hook under and over the bobbin 3-4 times before it will show up in the fabric. I used white thread and marked it black just as it entered the needle. Turn by hand and watched it.
My point of this, when one of these tangles occurs the thread is over stretched and damaged all the back up the machine. Over stretched thread makes it easy to tangle again.
Singer revised the hook and position finger for the Slant-O-Matic machines.. Most dealers invited the purchasers back for the modification.. I do not understand why there are so many machines "floating around" without the modification..
I have a 500j and a 503j. The 503 is noticeably noisier. I believe the sound is coming form the bobbin area. Occasionally, it will miss a stitch sewing light leather, and once in a while on other materials. I've checked/adjusted the thread clearance, checked/cleaned/adjusted the thread tension-er. It has a tendency to fray some types of thread, more so the heavier ones. I've used denim needles, and leather needles, with little change. The bobbin area remains noisier on the 503 than the 500. The noise can be heard as the thread passes over the bobbin holder area, and the bobbin holder moves slightly, within the clearance tolerances. Can this delint pin lead to a noise in this area, and possible the tendency for thread to be frayed/damaged? The pin appears to be intact and in position on this machine.
Thanks for any advice you may have.
Hi Jay. You have a great question. First make sure it is cleaned and delinted and oiled. There are some things that may be going on. First, it is possible the hook has some needle strikes on it and some burrs. I suggest watching Andy Tube and this video on removing burrs from a rotary style hook. That may help with the fraying of the thread. Second , it is possible that the bottom of the rotor is worn allowing the bobbin to sit down farther than when new and the thread bounces it up a bit when the bobbin thread is carried under the bobbin on each stitch. Stop using the metal type 66 bobbing. Start using a good quality plastic bobbin. I don't know if the delint pin would make that noise, when the thread gets stuck on the delint pin you know! It sews about 10 more stitches and jams. Like I said, some work well with the delint pin and some don't I don't know why, but i have only worked on 3 of these machines. I am a novice, but I was determined to fix mine.
You can buy and replace the rotary hook with a used one and see if that will help. But that may mean retiming your hook and needle, but it may be worth it if that hook is worn out. Consult with Andy Tube. He is a treasure trove of knowledge and may have some other ideas.
@@OutFishing13Matthew Well' I removed the delint pin on the 503j. Checked timing, adjusted thread clearance again, etc. Also, installed a plastic bobbin. The machine sounds similar to before. I tried several stitches- mostly straight and a couple of other basic ones. The unit seemed to work alright, but I feel it could be a bit better, in light leather. It will sew it, but continues to miss the odd stitch. I took a video with my iphone (slow-mo). You can see the bobbin jump up a bit, as the thread passes over the bobbin holder. Not real sure how much movement is normal here, (or sound for that matter), but I can hear that it is louder than a 401, and my other machine, a 500j. I'll keep digging into this, maybe I'll end up trying a new hook if I can get my hands on one. And thanks very much for taking the time to offer your input and advice. I appreciate it!
Mathew, do you have any idea how to adjust the tension on this machine. I've adjusted til I have a headache. My upper tension is too tight. I've loosened it and loosened, to no avail.
Hi Francine, I do, but it would be hard to explain. I recommend you watch Andy Tube. He has videos all about the tension units. What I learned about these machines, I learned from Andy Tube.
@@OutFishing13Matthew thank you.
I will contact Andy. He helped with my 401. Appreciate your reply.
All the "Slant-O- Matic" machines are sensitive to tension issues.. It takes a bit of tedious patience to adjust. The most important issue is to "0" out the upper tension properly..
my stitch length is stuck and will not change as I turn the dial, I have a singer 6110
can you suggest any videos out there that may help me fix it? Thankyou so much for your help!!
Have you tried the Andytube channel? Andy has a ton of videos on Singers. Not really sure if he has one on a 6110. Is this and old machine you just started using or baught recently? My guess is the mechanisms to adjust the dog movement is jammed up with dried up oil. Your machine probably needs a good cleaning. Try using some PB Plaster penetrating oil very liberally on the inside and under the bottom. That will help free us stuck parts.
Also, try Bob Fowler. He has sewing machine videos. th-cam.com/users/crazybob2525videos
Just recently got a Singer 500A.
1. stitch selector is stuck
2. My top thread is to loose and don't know how to adjust
I recommend you look up AndyTube. He has very detailed service videos on the 500a. You need to clean and lube the cam stack and all the adjusters under the lid. Use something like JB Blaster to get it cleaned and then lube it. Next you need to lube the thread tension rod. That is probably gummed up too. That is the rod that let's the thead tensioner in and out when you lift the foot up and down. The rod is gummed up.
Help!!!!!! I accidentally knocked one of the thread spools into the machine!!! Is one of the White ones the close down when the lid shuts. Idk how to o open the top to fetch it out!!!! I just bought her and she is so in near mint condition, so beautiful but now I'm afraid I killed her or she won't work now! Please help me of you know how to take the top off!!! God bless you!!!
Hi Jeniffer. Oops. I can see that happening. There are two screw under the flip top lid. One on each end of the main lid. Use a flat screwdriver to remove those. Be careful not to drop off the little door on the end. Then turn your machine upside down and get that little white spool pin out.
Hi, Can you please do a tutorial on retiming the machine, i just recently got mine and i think the timing is messed up, it keeps tangling under the foot plate/bobbin area and jamming whenever i sew.
I'm watching this because, I changed the needle and thread and my machine didn't like that, keeps getting stuck and the needle ends up not moving.
If it was working before you changed the needle, then more than likely it is the needle that is the problem. My guess is you did not get the needle all the way up in the needle bar. Take the needle out. Unscrew the little nut just a little. The flat side of the shank of the needle should be toward the back (the little groove on the needle should be facing forward). MAKE SURE your needle is inserted in the needle bar all the way up inside and then tighten the needle nut. Try again. What happened is the needle was not in far enough and it was getting stuck in the hook. That will fix it I am sure.
@@OutFishing13Matthew Yes! That was it. Thank you! 😊
@@mariavadineanu5626 You are welcome. You should check out Andy Tube's channel. He does an outstanding job on sewing machine services.