Six ways to thread the needle(s). Three for single needle sewing, and three for twin/double needle sewing. For Singer Models 401A, 403A, 404, 500, 500A, 503, 503A
The video is well done and clear. I think the information involving the knit kit is flawed as well as the information involving the automatic thread control. First the thread control was discontinued not because it did not work but that the advantage was not noticeable to the average sewer. The bypass thread path was the solution for damage from thread wear on the thin metal guides that created snag problems and a replacement guide plate was not available. As for the knit kit, no parts were changed in the machine. Thread clearance between the hook and needle was and has always been .000 to .002 inches. You can't get closer than that. The knit kit was made due to the lack of stretchable stiches from the existing cams #0 to #21. This was a problem when sewing collars and sleeves on the "new" knit fabrics. The knit kit or Stretch Stitch Accessories 161983 consisted of a plastic storage box containing a new Overedge presser foot and cam #22 that allowed a stretchable stitch for knit fabrics. I love the 503a and have no intention of ever replacing it. I have all the cams and over 30 attachments and am still collecting more as I find them.
Excerpt from the instruction sheet for the STRETCH STITCH ACCESORIES 161983 copyright 1968 ; "Use FASHION Disc 22 in place of the removable disc and the Overedge Pressure Foot in place of the regular pressure foot. Set the Stitch Width Selector at 5 and the Stitch Length Selector at 15 to 20 for overedged seams and at 20 or above for seam and edge finishes. Regulate thread tension and pressure foot pressure to suit your fabric. Always make a test sample before stitching your garment. " Hope this is helpful.
Thank you for all the information you share here. Were you in the business or just an enthusiast? This past month two different viewers contacted me about the difficulty of making that hook to needle adjustment of .000 to .002. One of the viewers emailed me a copy of a document written by Bill Holman in 2011 that mentions that in the field he would make that adjustment using sound instead of with a gauge. A very light "swing" sound of the needle was the desired result. He also mentions that the hook bracket used during the adjustment of the 401 & 500 class machines was eliminated with the 600 models. To quote his document, "This quickly became a problem, and so a "fix" was offered in the form of a "knit kit" This was a different hook, and an off center bushing in which it was mounted, so that it could be rotated to move the hook in/out from the needle. This was better than nothing, but is also moved the hook side to side, and was not nearly as good as the 401A type Hook Bracket." This makes me wonder if there was more than one "Knit Kit"; the one you describe (stretch Stich Accessories), and the one Bill describes for the 600 models. If so that may account for some of the confusion. Regardless, thanks again for sharing your info on my channel. I pinned your comment up top to share it first in comments. Take Care.
@@1953childstar i can see this on the 600 series but a tune up should suffice for the 500. I found no reference in my service manuals nor in the parts diagrams which list alternate parts if on some models. When I have time, I will look at the 600 docs and see how they recorded it.
Your videos are so helpful! I’ve just got my grandmothers Singer 503 Special and getting used to it. Did a deep clean and now ive threaded it haha. I have the original book and many of the extensions, happy to share the information on some of those pieces with you if you needed it
Thank you. A family machine like yours is so special. I'm happy you have it. I have everything that can be used on the model, but thank you for offering. You may like to own a copy of the original service manual for your machine; just for future reference? You can download a free copy in PDF format from the sewing dude blog at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Thank you for watching my channel, Jasmine, and happy sewing.
Hey, pace yourself! I don't want to be guilty of information overload, haha. Have fun Reta. Ever think of posting any videos? Maybe you could do one about replacing the brushes.
Im excited about this 500A machine what a gem it is thanks for the video. Now to try the bypass as well as check the tensioner. I subscribed today and ill put the machine into action again.
Welcome, John. Thanks for getting the machine back in service. It is a gem for sure. The Rocketeer ⭐ Here is the link to my main Playlist page. I have some playlists you may be interested in. There is Vicky a Model 503A; the sister to your machine. One is for Trouble a model 401A (mostly the same mechanics as your 500) and Regina a model 403A also has many similar parts. Check them out if you find any issues with your machine. PLAYLISTS PAGE: th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists Thanks for watching my channel, and the Sub.
I love how you explain things really well & I especially love how you take your time because it helps us noobies. hehe :) Thanks for sharing this helpful video Andy.
Welcome. A customer who bought a 403A from me wrote me to say the method #3 knit worked well for her recently when sewing some jersey bedding for her kids. That's why I thought I'd pass it along. Take care. (P.S. My mouth watered when I saw the Artisan Bread Joel made, haha)
Andy Tube Wow thanks for the detailed instructions. I love learning new things about these vintage beauties!! I would love to find any of the 500 s. I just love the styling!!
Welcome. I enjoy working on the Rocketeers very much. I actually prefer the 503A over the 500A. The 500A (and famous 401A) ,with the big camstack for built in stitches, is more noisy and not quite as powerful. The motor and gears are the same, but pushing that camstack around and around seems to use up some of the power. This 503A came with about 20 cams with designer stitches that can be used when you want, so it is almost as versatile as the 500A.
Your video is much appreciative and very informative being a new owner of the 503a. This helped tremendously in getting my stitch right. Especially the theading behind the gauge to compensate for the manufacturer's design failure.
I'm glad you found the video and thanks for the comment. If you have any other issues here is a playlist of my videos for the 503A: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html
Hi Andy. You amaze me how much you know about all the details of these vintage machines, especially the Singer models 300s, 400s, and 500s. I’m learning so much. Thank you once again.
You are welcome, but thanks to you and all who watch and comment. The more I have tried to explain and teach people about them, the more I have learned about them and about myself. Who knew? Take Care Doc.
Thank you for this very informative video. I have been using the #3 threading option with the #22 cam and the overlocking foot and it is working great for sewing on velour. I thought the velour was going to be a disaster to sew, but so far so good. 😊. I also appreciate your use of proper terminology for the machine parts. It is helping me to learn my 503A, which my husband had a great time working on while referring to your videos.
Sure, you are welcome. Thanks to Mr. for servicing the machine. It's a beautiful model, a "Rocketeer". I've sold a number of 403A & 503A machines to crafters who told me they heard about them from other folks who make and make & sell products. Love the taller presser feet and that they moved the needle closer to the sewist. With those pattern discs and the attachable buttonholer, it seems the possibilities are endless. Thanks for the nice comment, and happy sewing.
Thank you, Loriann. It's a very strong, versatile machine. I'm glad you found the video. BTW, you can download a FREE pdf copy of the original Singer Instruction Manual for this Model (98 pages) at this link: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/10f8b1ba3a5534c1cbfe8dda7b7ebe531c9e0ccb.pdf Someone gave you a very nice gift.
I purchased one of these machines this week end and found your video demonstration. What luck! Thanks for the in depth threading guide. Really appreciate your videos.
Thank you! When I first learned of "The Automatic Thread Guide" I thought How Cleaver. Turns out it did not do much. My retired Singer guys said it was a flop, and Singer soon told them to advise customers to just thread right past it. It's one of those things I call a "NOTSO" ... Not So Smart or Not So Good. Singer never used it on any other machines. BTW Da Mama, what news of the Take-p Lever on your 201-2? Any luck with getting that replaced. Take care.
Good news: The 201 2 take up lever has been removed and replaced. Bad news: I cannot get the timing correct. I removed the bobbin case and feed dog and it will run. When in place, the needle hits the side of the bobbin case where the screw bump is. I think the needle needs to be down when the depressed area is under the feed dog, Instead the screw on the bobbin case is under the feed dog when the needle is down and bumps into it. When the needle bar is at its lowest position, it does not quite meet the upper timing guide line, so I plan to move it up a bit. I don't see how it will make that much difference, but I don't know what else to try. If the local repair person wasn't so cranky, I would take it for him to time, but I'll keep trying until he becomes more pleasant. (I'm not making book on that happening.) More good news however . I bought a 99K crank Singer from England. It is in pristine condition. Yeah! One working. I just got the 503A home and have not tested it yet.
Good progress! On most Singers when the needle bar has bottomed out AND then on the upward stroke you stop at the LOWER timing mark when it reaches the bottom of the bushing. At that point, the needlepoint should be directly behind the hook point, usually about 1/16" above the threaded hole. If not, then you must reset the timing by loosening gears, belts depending. If you email my channel at andytube53@gmail.com I can send you a copy of the original Service Manual for the 201.
You're welcome, Jillian. Congrats on your Rocketeer 503A. Here is a playlist of videos for the machine about repair and maintenance if needed. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you for taking the time to do this video, especially the part about explaining the tension discs. I just got the machine and am at my wits end trying to thread it as I can't seem to get that part right. Will try your method tomorrow
I was warned by a repairman that the Rocketeer doesn't like knits, but was captivated by its beautiful space-age styling and bought one anyway. That guy was right on the money! What puzzles me is that I can sew any type of knit fabric on my 401a which is an earlier machine without any problems! It's been said that both the 401 and 500 are identical in build internally............what went wrong with the 500?
Hi Jule. Thanks for watching. Both models ARE mostly the same, and they both can have trouble sewing knits. If your 401A handles them that's great! Some do, some don't; it's strange. It was enough of a problem that Singer created a "KNIT KIT" they sent to their stores. Owners could bring in their machine and have a new hook & bushing installed. It basically moved the needle & hook closer together. This worked better for the newer polyester threads that came onto the market. I have had some success just adjusting the needle closer to the hook on a couple of machines. There is also a different threading method Singer recommended. I demonstrate it in this video> th-cam.com/video/m79nr_DHRwQ/w-d-xo.html I actually found a brand new "KNIT KIT" hook in a cabinet I bought. I'm waiting for someone to offer me $100 for it, hahaha. Terrific question Jule, thank you. Hope you stop by again.
Thanks for your quick reply Andy! I sent my message after watching your video and ran to my machine to test it, but no luck, still skipping stitches. The guy who warned me runs a repair shop in my area, I'm going to tak it in and see if he can make the adjustment you're talking about.
Darn, I was hoping it would help. Maybe the shop can help you out. I was also wondering if the timing was a bit off? Either way, you can download a free copy of the Singer Service Manual for your model here >> sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Pages 15 - 16 will be the info you need if you want to have a go at it, or take a copy to your shop guy. Best of luck, Jule!
Hi Andy, First, my best hopes for your health getting better day by day. I have an interesting issue, and it regards the “Knit Kit”. I have three machines, a 404, 503A, and 500A that have different looking hooks and fingers in them, with the hook having the number 382391. I can send you a picture to your email if you want. In the 404, I replaced this hook and finger because it did not fit the bushing (the bushing had to be lowered and even then, the hook seemed to wobble, when spinning. (I was glad to see the “Trouble” video on hook removal and replacement at this time). Since then, I have a 503A and a 500A that have this different looking hook and finger and they both run so nicely-I’m not replacing these hooks. My question for you is, in your “Knit Kit”, does the hook have number on it as “382391”?. I have searched the Internet for where these hooks came from, as I originally thought individuals had replaced them for some reason; I could not identify these hooks as to where they came from. In each of these three cases, the hook gears are marked for the correct meshing-the 503A has nail polish, the 404 and 500A have slash line etched through both gears. I’m just curious to identify these different looking hooks, and I thought of your “Knit Kit” today and thought maybe these are the “Knit Kit” hooks.
Congratulations, Rachael. Your very own Rocketeer sewing machine. Happy for you. ✨ You can download a FREE copy of the Instruction Manual from SInger at this safe link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=503 ALmost everything you need to know about the machine and how to use it. On my main playlist page, I have playlists of videos for model 503A and 403A, which is mechanically the same: www.singer.com/search/support?title=503 Here is a video I did back in 2017 for a 503A Owners group showing how to do regular maintenance th-cam.com/video/Sn2XD4EILFM/w-d-xo.html
Andy, maybe you can clarify something for me. I always assumed the 400 series preceded the 500 series. After looking at the years, there appears to be overlap. Also, I've seen some videos on the 400G series made in Germany. All these seem to have the automatic thread control. Thanks for the fantastic videos!!
The 400 were made before the 500 in the USA. The German Models were made during and after that time, even after/during the time the USA was making the 500. As far as I know, the German factory never made any 500 models, but used some of their features, like thread control and handwheel parts, on their 400G models. The USA timeline is fairly accurate. 401A, 1956-1961. 403A, 1958-`960. 404, 1958-1960, 1963. 500A & 503A, 1961-1963. The German models have less documentation though. 401G, 1960-1964. 404G, 1961-1965. 411G, 412G & 431G,1964-1065. Sources are: www.singer301.com/dating/default.html ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-400-499.html
@@deweygross2968 yeah I did kind of get in to this hobby. Pretty deep haha. Started when my wife brought home a $10 model 600E from a thrift shop and asked me to fix it. I did and was very impressed with the quality and design of the machine. Started picking up vintage machines here and there to see the difference in the models. 9 years and 600 videos later. I have picked up some knowledge of them, although I think certain models are much better than others. I never met a singer machine I didn't like. Thanks for watching my channel and I appreciate your interest
Do you use it much? I felt it was a gimmick and notice they only used it on a handful of models and did not carry it onto the 600 or 700 class machines. Thanks for watching my channel and happy sewing.
Ok thanks for info on my 457. After more cleansing gear was in tiny pieces. Now problem child 2. The 503A which normally gives me no trouble. But lately I sew more then 1 inch and top thread breaks. I have adjusted tension, pressure. Also all of a sudden needle stop wheels locked.
Here is how I would trouble shoot this. Remove all needle thread. Remove the bobbin. Set to: Center needle position, straight stitch, stitch length 12. “AIR” sew a piece of fabric, meaning just sew it without any thread. Slowly. Hear a needle striking anything? Feed dog hitting the needle plate? Does it sew the fabric normally? If so far so good, then do the following according to the instruction manual: www.singerco.com/uploads/download/10f8b1ba3a5534c1cbfe8dda7b7ebe531c9e0ccb.pdf Install a new needle. Wind a different bobbin (class 66). Thread the needle according to the manual. Thread the bobbin case according to the manual. Same settings: center, straight, 12. Sew a piece of fabric. The problem you describe is usually (not always) user error during threading.
Andy, I have a 503a and a hard plastic carrying case. It seems that two screws are needed to hold the case bottom onto the bottom of the machine. Do you know what size screws are needed?
I've seen pictures of the case, but not the case in person. If there are two holes near the back edge on the bottom of the case base they are for long screws to go thru the case and into the bottom holes of the slots for cabinets hinges. The machine left the factory with small set screws for the hinge posts when you hang the machine in a cabinet. Those set screws would be removed and replaced with the long screws I mentioned. None of the SInger Parts Lists for machines mention these longer screws or what the size or what thread count is, however they would be the same as the small set screw, just much longer. I found an eBay ad for a similar case and in the last picture, you'll see the two long screws I am talking about. www.ebay.com/itm/154666125189?hash=item2402d1c785:g:-MUAAOSwR~JhdFIX If the screw holes in your case are different then I have no other knowledge to share about those screw types.
Thank you for this video! I learned a lot. I just bought a 503a a few months ago. I had to have the bobbin tension hook replaced after I received the machine. I noticed the hand wheel has a lot of play in it; it spins when I'm sewing. I'm also having issues lately in winding a bobbin. It will just spin but there's no thread being added to the bobbin. Eventually I get it to work. But if I don't wind the bobbin exactly right, it will have a wavy bobbin stitch. I love the 503, my first vintage machine. Other than the loose hand wheel and the bobbin winding issues, I can't complain. I wondered if you might have any ideas on where to begin.
Congrats on your "new" Rocketeer sewing machine! ✨ Just curious; what is a "bobbin tension hook"? The bobbin winding problem may be related to the handwheel problem, or something as simple as a dry rubber tire that won't grip well any longer. I'll recommend some videos for you. Two videos for working on the bobbin winder system of a Rocketeer model, part 1; th-cam.com/video/BWdT7OlGUMg/w-d-xo.html and part 2; th-cam.com/video/P2ROdLM5zmE/w-d-xo.html Then two videos about the handwheel. They are of a model 404, but even though the parts look a little different, they work the same. Maybe they can help. Remove the handwheel: (usually no need to remove the counterbalance unless it is cracked) th-cam.com/video/eZiMaaka5HE/w-d-xo.html and installing the handwheel, th-cam.com/video/hHl96WL1kzA/w-d-xo.html I hope these will point you in a good direction. If not, let me know, and good luck. Oh, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@cmaddux123 OK, I hope the videos will help, and yes, the spring part no. 172552 is in the video, famous for breaking. No worries, I just thought your machine had a part I did not know of. Thanks for the clarification. Good Luck.
cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos Computadora: ¿Cómo cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos en TH-cam? th-cam.com/video/Q-6_7_dbhRo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/LZz03myFuWA/w-d-xo.html Teléfono Android: Cómo cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos en la aplicación TH-cam th-cam.com/video/KPSgueF_Cpg/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/BDROkkW-OxI/w-d-xo.html
Andy, if you're there, I have started to sew with my new 503a machine and I have a bobbin dilemma. I got one bobbin with the machine that works. The lady sent a pack of class 66 metal bobbins that won't go into the bobbin carrier. I have a few stray Singer plastic bobbins that go into the carrier but are tight on the winder. What's a guy to do. Are there secret bobbins out there that people are hoarding, or what. Help!!!
Thanks for watching my channel, Ralph, and congrats on your new Rocketeer 503A. "The lady..." haha Here are the bobbins I buy, and the trusted seller I buy them from www.ebay.com/itm/20-Singer-66-Class-99-338-1022-802-Drop-In-Metal-Bobbins-many-models-Genuine/201984875093?epid=11026545968&hash=item2f073c9a55:g:S94AAOSwhcJWHXmT www.ebay.com/itm/20-Genuine-Singer-Drop-In-Plastic-Bobbins-172336-S/380304750537?hash=item588bedf7c9:g:6GwAAOSwRXRZVIzn Since April when everyone started sewing masks, bringing out Grandma's old Singer machine, I have been hearing of the problems you are describing. All I can say is I have bought many bobbins from this seller, SInger class 15, 66, and Touch-n-Sew and they all worked fine.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks much Andy. I bought 3. Pretty strange that a modern Singer Class 66 bobbin won't fit in an old machine. May your holiday season be merry and bright. Thanks, Ralph-
@@ralphwatten2426 I think the modern machines use an Apollo type plastic bobbin holder/case while the older vintage machines were metal bobbin holders. I also wonder about sneaky manufacturers misleading their USA buyers and selling off size bobbins as class 66. JMO is all.
I would not try to sew a horse saddle with it but to make leather clothing if that's what you mean sure it can do that it is not an industrial machine it was made for household use but it is very strong
Thanks for asking. It istwo layered fabric interwoven together. Check this link out as they explain better than I can. Thanks for watching my channel. www.ehow.com/about_6331849_double-knit-fabric_.html
Thank you so much, man! I’ve ended up with a lot of my grandmas sewing supplies after she passed and I thought I might as well attempt to sew something! I have the original instruction manual but I’ve never used a sewing machine so the diagram on how to thread the thread made pretty much no sense to me. 😅
Thanks for the nice comment. I'm happy that you found the video and even happier you have your grandma's machines. I know over time you'll come to appreciate them even more. I wish I had even one from my grandma. Happy sewing!
Si está preguntando cómo ajustar la tensión del hilo de la aguja, mire este video: th-cam.com/video/OqZZ-uhnAMY/w-d-xo.html Además, si tiene el Modelo 503A, estos 19 videos pueden ayudarlo con su máquina: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html Buena suerte y gracias por ver mi canal.
Hi reta, and thanks for tuning in. I'm getting my health back and hope to make more videos. Is there something in particular you would like to see? If possible, I'd give it a go. :)
I hope you are better soon. I didn't know you were ill. I have a badged 15-90 I got for 17.00 dollars. I could see thick brown fuss looking into the end of the motor so I took it apart . Not knowing what I was doing one of the brushes went flying and broke . I got discouraged and haven't done anything with it for a year or so. Where do you get brushes for badged machines? And putting them in the motor
Thank you. I have never restored an old "Iron Horse" Singer like a Model 15. I did get one free inside a cabinet one time and looked into it though. It took me awhile to find my notes, but now I can share some resources about it. I usually buy my brushes at sew-classic because if I'm not sure which ones, I can email them and they always know. They cost about $12 for a pair. Here is a link: shop.sew-classic.com/Carbon-Motor-Brush-SPRING-INC-Singer-221-201-2-15-91-others-192457-w-spring.htm For resources, the following may help you: (This is a detailed instructions, include brushes install, but really I think the whole motor is coverd) vssmb.blogspot.com/2012/01/complete-how-to-re-wire-potted-motor.html mysewingmachineobsession.blogspot.com/2012/04/we-can-get-confused-by-terminology.html zoundsdesigns.com/2012/01/20/singer-15-90-restoration-part-5/ Free instruction manual, just enter 15-90 in the box: www.singerco.com/support/instruction-manuals Free parts diagram: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/1_19999/15-88_15-90.pdf IT IS RARE to find a FREE copy of the service adjusters manual. but you are living right and it is your lucky day: parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/15-91.pdf Connie, at thriftyfarmgirl.com, often has vintage parts for some of the 15 models, and is also willing to answer questions and help you track down what you need. She has a very nice book, DIY Sewing Machine Repair Book, on its second edition, that you might like. So I can't do a video for you, but maybe that info will help. Best Wishes Reta.
My 503A singer will NOT sew properly if all Ts aren’t crossed and I’s aren’t dotted if that makes sense. Meaning it won’t sew if that “automatic” thread control isn’t used. It sews very well when that’s being used if I try to skip that step it will skip and won’t sew properly! My machine must be feisty! Lol! (Like myself)🤣
Most of the owners that I asked told me they bypass the automatic control, especially when sewing on knit or double knit fabrics. There are a few mentions online of the 500A and 503A Slant-)-Matics skipping stitches on knit fabric. None of them mentioned if they were a "feisty" sewist, or not, hehe. I only encountered that problem once and adjusted the needlepoint a little closer to the hook point to solve it.
Andy Tube I actually like the stitch quality on this machine. It works very well for decorative stitches as well. It’s fast enough for piecing for me. I will possibly sell this one really soon! Thanks Andy! 👍🏾
there was never any reason to add the so called "automatic thread control". The machine sews fine without it. I have never seen another sewing machine (Singer or otherwise) with that extra garbage. Another example of making things more complicated than they need to be.
I've only seen it on Models 500A & 503A. As to "never any reason" it seems they had some reason to go to the trouble of designing and making the parts and adding the step into the assembly. In the pinned comment above by strayblackcatsmeow it reads "" the thread control was discontinued not because it did not work but that the advantage was not noticeable to the average sewer. """ I should have asked what exactly the "advantage" was supposed to be. Page 8 of the 500A manual says it was "to ensure a smooth flow of thread from the spool to needle". Hmm... like all the machines they made for the prior 100 years did NOT have a smooth flow of thread? Who knew? You may be on to something, Sam, with the thought of it being more complicated than needed. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for reading my comment. I like your video and was especially glad to see how to the thread the "automatic thread control" since I was never sure how to thread it. Whenever I have encountered one of these machines I would just ignore the "automatic thread control" and they seemed to sew fine. (BTW My grandfather went to work for Singer at a retail store in 1910 and worked on his own in the years following. My father followed him in sewing machine business. I have also worked on machines for about 31 years now .) I did notice other commenters that felt that it made a difference so I guess we all have a different experience. But I always wondered why Singer thought it was necessary since none of Singer's other similar machines had this "automatic thread control".
The video is well done and clear. I think the information involving the knit kit is flawed as well as the information involving the automatic thread control. First the thread control was discontinued not because it did not work but that the advantage was not noticeable to the average sewer. The bypass thread path was the solution for damage from thread wear on the thin metal guides that created snag problems and a replacement guide plate was not available. As for the knit kit, no parts were changed in the machine. Thread clearance between the hook and needle was and has always been .000 to .002 inches. You can't get closer than that. The knit kit was made due to the lack of stretchable stiches from the existing cams #0 to #21. This was a problem when sewing collars and sleeves on the "new" knit fabrics. The knit kit or Stretch Stitch Accessories 161983 consisted of a plastic storage box containing a new Overedge presser foot and cam #22 that allowed a stretchable stitch for knit fabrics. I love the 503a and have no intention of ever replacing it. I have all the cams and over 30 attachments and am still collecting more as I find them.
Excerpt from the instruction sheet for the STRETCH STITCH ACCESORIES 161983 copyright 1968 ; "Use FASHION Disc 22 in place of the removable disc and the Overedge Pressure Foot in place of the regular pressure foot. Set the Stitch Width Selector at 5 and the Stitch Length Selector at 15 to 20 for overedged seams and at 20 or above for seam and edge finishes. Regulate thread tension and pressure foot pressure to suit your fabric. Always make a test sample before stitching your garment. " Hope this is helpful.
Thank you for all the information you share here. Were you in the business or just an enthusiast? This past month two different viewers contacted me about the difficulty of making that hook to needle adjustment of .000 to .002. One of the viewers emailed me a copy of a document written by Bill Holman in 2011 that mentions that in the field he would make that adjustment using sound instead of with a gauge. A very light "swing" sound of the needle was the desired result. He also mentions that the hook bracket used during the adjustment of the 401 & 500 class machines was eliminated with the 600 models. To quote his document, "This quickly became a problem, and so a "fix" was offered in the form of a "knit kit" This was a different hook, and an off center bushing in which it was mounted, so that it could be rotated to move the hook in/out from the needle. This was better than nothing, but is also moved the hook side to side, and was not nearly as good as the 401A type Hook Bracket." This makes me wonder if there was more than one "Knit Kit"; the one you describe (stretch Stich Accessories), and the one Bill describes for the 600 models. If so that may account for some of the confusion. Regardless, thanks again for sharing your info on my channel. I pinned your comment up top to share it first in comments. Take Care.
Ooooh! I feel like I'm privileged to get to listen to this conversation!! Thank you both for sharing all your knowledge!!!
@@1953childstar i can see this on the 600 series but a tune up should suffice for the 500. I found no reference in my service manuals nor in the parts diagrams which list alternate parts if on some models. When I have time, I will look at the 600 docs and see how they recorded it.
Your videos are so helpful! I’ve just got my grandmothers Singer 503 Special and getting used to it. Did a deep clean and now ive threaded it haha. I have the original book and many of the extensions, happy to share the information on some of those pieces with you if you needed it
Thank you. A family machine like yours is so special. I'm happy you have it. I have everything that can be used on the model, but thank you for offering. You may like to own a copy of the original service manual for your machine; just for future reference?
You can download a free copy in PDF format from the sewing dude blog at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
Thank you for watching my channel, Jasmine, and happy sewing.
Oh my goodness. That is a wealth of information!! Thank you !! Can't wait to get started on it.
Hey, pace yourself! I don't want to be guilty of information overload, haha. Have fun Reta. Ever think of posting any videos? Maybe you could do one about replacing the brushes.
Im excited about this 500A machine what a gem it is thanks for the video. Now to try the bypass as well as check the tensioner. I subscribed today and ill put the machine into action again.
Welcome, John. Thanks for getting the machine back in service. It is a gem for sure. The Rocketeer ⭐ Here is the link to my main Playlist page. I have some playlists you may be interested in. There is Vicky a Model 503A; the sister to your machine. One is for Trouble a model 401A (mostly the same mechanics as your 500) and Regina a model 403A also has many similar parts. Check them out if you find any issues with your machine. PLAYLISTS PAGE: th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists Thanks for watching my channel, and the Sub.
I love how you explain things really well & I especially love how you take your time because it helps us noobies. hehe :) Thanks for sharing this helpful video Andy.
Welcome. A customer who bought a 403A from me wrote me to say the method #3 knit worked well for her recently when sewing some jersey bedding for her kids. That's why I thought I'd pass it along. Take care.
(P.S. My mouth watered when I saw the Artisan Bread Joel made, haha)
Andy Tube Wow thanks for the detailed instructions. I love learning new things about these vintage beauties!! I would love to find any of the 500 s. I just love the styling!!
Welcome. I enjoy working on the Rocketeers very much. I actually prefer the 503A over the 500A. The 500A (and famous 401A) ,with the big camstack for built in stitches, is more noisy and not quite as powerful. The motor and gears are the same, but pushing that camstack around and around seems to use up some of the power. This 503A came with about 20 cams with designer stitches that can be used when you want, so it is almost as versatile as the 500A.
Your video is much appreciative and very informative being a new owner of the 503a. This helped tremendously in getting my stitch right. Especially the theading behind the gauge to compensate for the manufacturer's design failure.
I'm glad you found the video and thanks for the comment. If you have any other issues here is a playlist of my videos for the 503A:
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html
Hi Andy. You amaze me how much you know about all the details of these vintage machines, especially the Singer models 300s, 400s, and 500s. I’m learning so much. Thank you once again.
You are welcome, but thanks to you and all who watch and comment. The more I have tried to explain and teach people about them, the more I have learned about them and about myself. Who knew? Take Care Doc.
Great job
🙏
Thank you for this very informative video. I have been using the #3 threading option with the #22 cam and the overlocking foot and it is working great for sewing on velour. I thought the velour was going to be a disaster to sew, but so far so good. 😊. I also appreciate your use of proper terminology for the machine parts. It is helping me to learn my 503A, which my husband had a great time working on while referring to your videos.
Sure, you are welcome. Thanks to Mr. for servicing the machine. It's a beautiful model, a "Rocketeer". I've sold a number of 403A & 503A machines to crafters who told me they heard about them from other folks who make and make & sell products. Love the taller presser feet and that they moved the needle closer to the sewist. With those pattern discs and the attachable buttonholer, it seems the possibilities are endless. Thanks for the nice comment, and happy sewing.
I was just given this machine and I’m thoroughly fascinated with all the details surrounding it. Your information is invaluable!
Thank you, Loriann. It's a very strong, versatile machine. I'm glad you found the video. BTW, you can download a FREE pdf copy of the original Singer Instruction Manual for this Model (98 pages) at this link: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/10f8b1ba3a5534c1cbfe8dda7b7ebe531c9e0ccb.pdf
Someone gave you a very nice gift.
I purchased one of these machines this week end and found your video demonstration. What luck! Thanks for the in depth threading guide. Really appreciate your videos.
Thank you! When I first learned of "The Automatic Thread Guide" I thought How Cleaver. Turns out it did not do much. My retired Singer guys said it was a flop, and Singer soon told them to advise customers to just thread right past it. It's one of those things I call a "NOTSO" ... Not So Smart or Not So Good. Singer never used it on any other machines.
BTW Da Mama, what news of the Take-p Lever on your 201-2? Any luck with getting that replaced. Take care.
Good news: The 201 2 take up lever has been removed and replaced. Bad news: I cannot get the timing correct. I removed the bobbin case and feed dog and it will run. When in place, the needle hits the side of the bobbin case where the screw bump is. I think the needle needs to be down when the depressed area is under the feed dog, Instead the screw on the bobbin case is under the feed dog when the needle is down and bumps into it. When the needle bar is at its lowest position, it does not quite meet the upper timing guide line, so I plan to move it up a bit. I don't see how it will make that much difference, but I don't know what else to try. If the local repair person wasn't so cranky, I would take it for him to time, but I'll keep trying until he becomes more pleasant. (I'm not making book on that happening.) More good news however . I bought a 99K crank Singer from England. It is in pristine condition. Yeah! One working. I just got the 503A home and have not tested it yet.
I noticed below that you had manuals for the 15-91. Do you have restoration (and timing) resources for the 201-2 as well?
Good progress! On most Singers when the needle bar has bottomed out AND then on the upward stroke you stop at the LOWER timing mark when it reaches the bottom of the bushing. At that point, the needlepoint should be directly behind the hook point, usually about 1/16" above the threaded hole. If not, then you must reset the timing by loosening gears, belts depending. If you email my channel at andytube53@gmail.com I can send you a copy of the original Service Manual for the 201.
I do. If you'd like to email my channel at andytube53@gmail.com I can send you a pdf copy of it.
This is my love- have newer machine BUT I keep going back to this machine
hey we get that like my wife says if you have a slant omatic you'd be crazy not to use it thanks for watching and we enjoyed your comment take care
Great tutorial. Just inherited a singer 503a and I needed help.
You're welcome, Jillian. Congrats on your Rocketeer 503A. Here is a playlist of videos for the machine about repair and maintenance if needed. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you for taking the time to do this video, especially the part about explaining the tension discs. I just got the machine and am at my wits end trying to thread it as I can't seem to get that part right. Will try your method tomorrow
Thanks for your comment Lisa. You will be threading like a Pro in no time.
I was warned by a repairman that the Rocketeer doesn't like knits, but was captivated by its beautiful space-age styling and bought one anyway. That guy was right on the money! What puzzles me is that I can sew any type of knit fabric on my 401a which is an earlier machine without any problems! It's been said that both the 401 and 500 are identical in build internally............what went wrong with the 500?
Hi Jule. Thanks for watching. Both models ARE mostly the same, and they both can have trouble sewing knits. If your 401A handles them that's great! Some do, some don't; it's strange. It was enough of a problem that Singer created a "KNIT KIT" they sent to their stores. Owners could bring in their machine and have a new hook & bushing installed. It basically moved the needle & hook closer together. This worked better for the newer polyester threads that came onto the market. I have had some success just adjusting the needle closer to the hook on a couple of machines. There is also a different threading method Singer recommended.
I demonstrate it in this video> th-cam.com/video/m79nr_DHRwQ/w-d-xo.html
I actually found a brand new "KNIT KIT" hook in a cabinet I bought. I'm waiting for someone to offer me $100 for it, hahaha. Terrific question Jule, thank you. Hope you stop by again.
Thanks for your quick reply Andy! I sent my message after watching your video and ran to my machine to test it, but no luck, still skipping stitches. The guy who warned me runs a repair shop in my area, I'm going to tak it in and see if he can make the adjustment you're talking about.
Darn, I was hoping it would help. Maybe the shop can help you out. I was also wondering if the timing was a bit off? Either way, you can download a free copy of the Singer Service Manual for your model here >>
sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
Pages 15 - 16 will be the info you need if you want to have a go at it, or take a copy to your shop guy.
Best of luck, Jule!
Hi Andy,
First, my best hopes for your health getting better day by day. I have an interesting issue, and it regards the “Knit Kit”. I have three machines, a 404, 503A, and 500A that have different looking hooks and fingers in them, with the hook having the number 382391. I can send you a picture to your email if you want. In the 404, I replaced this hook and finger because it did not fit the bushing (the bushing had to be lowered and even then, the hook seemed to wobble, when spinning. (I was glad to see the “Trouble” video on hook removal and replacement at this time). Since then, I have a 503A and a 500A that have this different looking hook and finger and they both run so nicely-I’m not replacing these hooks. My question for you is, in your “Knit Kit”, does the hook have number on it as “382391”?. I have searched the Internet for where these hooks came from, as I originally thought individuals had replaced them for some reason; I could not identify these hooks as to where they came from. In each of these three cases, the hook gears are marked for the correct meshing-the 503A has nail polish, the 404 and 500A have slash line etched through both gears. I’m just curious to identify these different looking hooks, and I thought of your “Knit Kit” today and thought maybe these are the “Knit Kit” hooks.
Very helpful I just scored this exact machine at a garage sale! I was struggling to thread it for the first time!😅
Congratulations, Rachael. Your very own Rocketeer sewing machine. Happy for you. ✨ You can download a FREE copy of the Instruction Manual from SInger at this safe link:
www.singer.com/search/support?title=503 ALmost everything you need to know about the machine and how to use it.
On my main playlist page, I have playlists of videos for model 503A and 403A, which is mechanically the same: www.singer.com/search/support?title=503
Here is a video I did back in 2017 for a 503A Owners group showing how to do regular maintenance th-cam.com/video/Sn2XD4EILFM/w-d-xo.html
Andy, maybe you can clarify something for me. I always assumed the 400 series preceded the 500 series. After looking at the years, there appears to be overlap. Also, I've seen some videos on the 400G series made in Germany. All these seem to have the automatic thread control. Thanks for the fantastic videos!!
The 400 were made before the 500 in the USA. The German Models were made during and after that time, even after/during the time the USA was making the 500. As far as I know, the German factory never made any 500 models, but used some of their features, like thread control and handwheel parts, on their 400G models. The USA timeline is fairly accurate.
401A, 1956-1961. 403A, 1958-`960. 404, 1958-1960, 1963. 500A & 503A, 1961-1963. The German models have less documentation though. 401G, 1960-1964. 404G, 1961-1965. 411G, 412G & 431G,1964-1065.
Sources are: www.singer301.com/dating/default.html ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-400-499.html
The depth of your knowledge is amazing!
@@deweygross2968 yeah I did kind of get in to this hobby. Pretty deep haha. Started when my wife brought home a $10 model 600E from a thrift shop and asked me to fix it. I did and was very impressed with the quality and design of the machine. Started picking up vintage machines here and there to see the difference in the models. 9 years and 600 videos later. I have picked up some knowledge of them, although I think certain models are much better than others. I never met a singer machine I didn't like. Thanks for watching my channel and I appreciate your interest
My 401g has that system with the extra thread control finger on the side
Do you use it much? I felt it was a gimmick and notice they only used it on a handful of models and did not carry it onto the 600 or 700 class machines. Thanks for watching my channel and happy sewing.
Thank you
Welcome, Janet.
I wonder how you are doing. ❤️
Playing hide-and-seek with this medical condition. Not able to shake it off yet though. Thanks for asking and giving me a big smile. Take care, Maria.
Ok thanks for info on my 457. After more cleansing gear was in tiny pieces. Now problem child 2. The 503A which normally gives me no trouble. But lately I sew more then 1 inch and top thread breaks. I have adjusted tension, pressure. Also all of a sudden needle stop wheels locked.
Here is how I would trouble shoot this. Remove all needle thread. Remove the bobbin. Set to: Center needle position, straight stitch, stitch length 12. “AIR” sew a piece of fabric, meaning just sew it without any thread. Slowly. Hear a needle striking anything? Feed dog hitting the needle plate? Does it sew the fabric normally? If so far so good, then do the following according to the instruction manual: www.singerco.com/uploads/download/10f8b1ba3a5534c1cbfe8dda7b7ebe531c9e0ccb.pdf
Install a new needle. Wind a different bobbin (class 66). Thread the needle according to the manual. Thread the bobbin case according to the manual. Same settings: center, straight, 12.
Sew a piece of fabric.
The problem you describe is usually (not always) user error during threading.
Good info,Thank you!
Glad you found the video and thanks for the comment.
Good information!
Glad you think so!
Andy, I have a 503a and a hard plastic carrying case. It seems that two screws are needed to hold the case bottom onto the bottom of the machine. Do you know what size screws are needed?
I've seen pictures of the case, but not the case in person. If there are two holes near the back edge on the bottom of the case base they are for long screws to go thru the case and into the bottom holes of the slots for cabinets hinges. The machine left the factory with small set screws for the hinge posts when you hang the machine in a cabinet. Those set screws would be removed and replaced with the long screws I mentioned. None of the SInger Parts Lists for machines mention these longer screws or what the size or what thread count is, however they would be the same as the small set screw, just much longer. I found an eBay ad for a similar case and in the last picture, you'll see the two long screws I am talking about. www.ebay.com/itm/154666125189?hash=item2402d1c785:g:-MUAAOSwR~JhdFIX
If the screw holes in your case are different then I have no other knowledge to share about those screw types.
Thank you for this video! I learned a lot. I just bought a 503a a few months ago. I had to have the bobbin tension hook replaced after I received the machine. I noticed the hand wheel has a lot of play in it; it spins when I'm sewing. I'm also having issues lately in winding a bobbin. It will just spin but there's no thread being added to the bobbin. Eventually I get it to work. But if I don't wind the bobbin exactly right, it will have a wavy bobbin stitch. I love the 503, my first vintage machine. Other than the loose hand wheel and the bobbin winding issues, I can't complain. I wondered if you might have any ideas on where to begin.
Congrats on your "new" Rocketeer sewing machine! ✨ Just curious; what is a "bobbin tension hook"?
The bobbin winding problem may be related to the handwheel problem, or something as simple as a dry rubber tire that won't grip well any longer. I'll recommend some videos for you. Two videos for working on the bobbin winder system of a Rocketeer model, part 1; th-cam.com/video/BWdT7OlGUMg/w-d-xo.html and part 2; th-cam.com/video/P2ROdLM5zmE/w-d-xo.html Then two videos about the handwheel. They are of a model 404, but even though the parts look a little different, they work the same. Maybe they can help.
Remove the handwheel: (usually no need to remove the counterbalance unless it is cracked) th-cam.com/video/eZiMaaka5HE/w-d-xo.html
and installing the handwheel, th-cam.com/video/hHl96WL1kzA/w-d-xo.html I hope these will point you in a good direction. If not, let me know, and good luck. Oh, and thanks for watching my channel.
Andy Tube Thank you! I will check out these videos. The part was called bobbin winder spring 172552. Sorry memory meltdown.
@@cmaddux123 OK, I hope the videos will help, and yes, the spring part no. 172552 is in the video, famous for breaking. No worries, I just thought your machine had a part I did not know of. Thanks for the clarification. Good Luck.
Traducir al español.muchas gracias
cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos
Computadora: ¿Cómo cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos en TH-cam?
th-cam.com/video/Q-6_7_dbhRo/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/LZz03myFuWA/w-d-xo.html
Teléfono Android: Cómo cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos en la aplicación TH-cam
th-cam.com/video/KPSgueF_Cpg/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/BDROkkW-OxI/w-d-xo.html
Andy, if you're there, I have started to sew with my new 503a machine and I have a bobbin dilemma. I got one bobbin with the machine that works. The lady sent a pack of class 66 metal bobbins that won't go into the bobbin carrier. I have a few stray Singer plastic bobbins that go into the carrier but are tight on the winder. What's a guy to do. Are there secret bobbins out there that people are hoarding, or what. Help!!!
Thanks for watching my channel, Ralph, and congrats on your new Rocketeer 503A. "The lady..." haha
Here are the bobbins I buy, and the trusted seller I buy them from www.ebay.com/itm/20-Singer-66-Class-99-338-1022-802-Drop-In-Metal-Bobbins-many-models-Genuine/201984875093?epid=11026545968&hash=item2f073c9a55:g:S94AAOSwhcJWHXmT
www.ebay.com/itm/20-Genuine-Singer-Drop-In-Plastic-Bobbins-172336-S/380304750537?hash=item588bedf7c9:g:6GwAAOSwRXRZVIzn
Since April when everyone started sewing masks, bringing out Grandma's old Singer machine, I have been hearing of the problems you are describing. All I can say is I have bought many bobbins from this seller, SInger class 15, 66, and Touch-n-Sew and they all worked fine.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks much Andy. I bought 3. Pretty strange that a modern Singer Class 66 bobbin won't fit in an old machine. May your holiday season be merry and bright. Thanks, Ralph-
@@ralphwatten2426 I think the modern machines use an Apollo type plastic bobbin holder/case while the older vintage machines were metal bobbin holders. I also wonder about sneaky manufacturers misleading their USA buyers and selling off size bobbins as class 66. JMO is all.
Does it like to sew leather?
I would not try to sew a horse saddle with it but to make leather clothing if that's what you mean sure it can do that it is not an industrial machine it was made for household use but it is very strong
What is Double Knit Fabric?
Thanks for asking. It istwo layered fabric interwoven together. Check this link out as they explain better than I can. Thanks for watching my channel.
www.ehow.com/about_6331849_double-knit-fabric_.html
Thank you so much, man! I’ve ended up with a lot of my grandmas sewing supplies after she passed and I thought I might as well attempt to sew something! I have the original instruction manual but I’ve never used a sewing machine so the diagram on how to thread the thread made pretty much no sense to me. 😅
Thanks for the nice comment. I'm happy that you found the video and even happier you have your grandma's machines. I know over time you'll come to appreciate them even more. I wish I had even one from my grandma. Happy sewing!
Como tenso el hilo
Si está preguntando cómo ajustar la tensión del hilo de la aguja, mire este video:
th-cam.com/video/OqZZ-uhnAMY/w-d-xo.html Además, si tiene el Modelo 503A, estos 19 videos pueden ayudarlo con su máquina: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html Buena suerte y gracias por ver mi canal.
More videos please :)
Hi reta, and thanks for tuning in. I'm getting my health back and hope to make more videos. Is there something in particular you would like to see? If possible, I'd give it a go. :)
Sure hope you feel better soon, Andy. God bless
Thanks! Yes, better each day, thank goodness.
I hope you are better soon. I didn't know you were ill. I have a badged 15-90 I got for 17.00 dollars. I could see thick brown fuss looking into the end of the motor so I took it apart . Not knowing what I was doing one of the brushes went flying and broke . I got discouraged and haven't done anything with it for a year or so. Where do you get brushes for badged machines? And putting them in the motor
Thank you.
I have never restored an old "Iron Horse" Singer like a Model 15. I did get one free inside a cabinet one time and looked into it though. It took me awhile to find my notes, but now I can share some resources about it.
I usually buy my brushes at sew-classic because if I'm not sure which ones, I can email them and they always know. They cost about $12 for a pair. Here is a link: shop.sew-classic.com/Carbon-Motor-Brush-SPRING-INC-Singer-221-201-2-15-91-others-192457-w-spring.htm
For resources, the following may help you:
(This is a detailed instructions, include brushes install, but really I think the whole motor is coverd)
vssmb.blogspot.com/2012/01/complete-how-to-re-wire-potted-motor.html
mysewingmachineobsession.blogspot.com/2012/04/we-can-get-confused-by-terminology.html
zoundsdesigns.com/2012/01/20/singer-15-90-restoration-part-5/
Free instruction manual, just enter 15-90 in the box:
www.singerco.com/support/instruction-manuals
Free parts diagram: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/1_19999/15-88_15-90.pdf
IT IS RARE to find a FREE copy of the service adjusters manual. but you are living right and it is your lucky day:
parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/15-91.pdf
Connie, at thriftyfarmgirl.com, often has vintage parts for some of the 15 models, and is also willing to answer questions and help you track down what you need. She has a very nice book, DIY Sewing Machine Repair Book, on its second edition, that you might like.
So I can't do a video for you, but maybe that info will help. Best Wishes Reta.
My 503A singer will NOT sew properly if all Ts aren’t crossed and I’s aren’t dotted if that makes sense. Meaning it won’t sew if that “automatic” thread control isn’t used. It sews very well when that’s being used if I try to skip that step it will skip and won’t sew properly! My machine must be feisty! Lol! (Like myself)🤣
Most of the owners that I asked told me they bypass the automatic control, especially when sewing on knit or double knit fabrics. There are a few mentions online of the 500A and 503A Slant-)-Matics skipping stitches on knit fabric. None of them mentioned if they were a "feisty" sewist, or not, hehe. I only encountered that problem once and adjusted the needlepoint a little closer to the hook point to solve it.
Andy Tube I actually like the stitch quality on this machine. It works very well for decorative stitches as well. It’s fast enough for piecing for me. I will possibly sell this one really soon! Thanks Andy! 👍🏾
:)
there was never any reason to add the so called "automatic thread control". The machine sews fine without it. I have never seen another sewing machine (Singer or otherwise) with that extra garbage. Another example of making things more complicated than they need to be.
I've only seen it on Models 500A & 503A. As to "never any reason" it seems they had some reason to go to the trouble of designing and making the parts and adding the step into the assembly. In the pinned comment above by strayblackcatsmeow it reads "" the thread control was discontinued not because it did not work but that the advantage was not noticeable to the average sewer. """ I should have asked what exactly the "advantage" was supposed to be. Page 8 of the 500A manual says it was "to ensure a smooth flow of thread from the spool to needle". Hmm... like all the machines they made for the prior 100 years did NOT have a smooth flow of thread? Who knew? You may be on to something, Sam, with the thought of it being more complicated than needed. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for reading my comment. I like your video and was especially glad to see how to the thread the "automatic thread control" since I was never sure how to thread it. Whenever I have encountered one of these machines I would just ignore the "automatic thread control" and they seemed to sew fine. (BTW My grandfather went to work for Singer at a retail store in 1910 and worked on his own in the years following. My father followed him in sewing machine business. I have also worked on machines for about 31 years now .) I did notice other commenters that felt that it made a difference so I guess we all have a different experience. But I always wondered why Singer thought it was necessary since none of Singer's other similar machines had this "automatic thread control".
thank you
Absolutely welcome! Thanks for taking the time to comment.