Fantastic informative step by step instructions. Thankyou very much. I too have just bought a brand new Weihrauch HW97KT blackline synthetic. I've put quite a few bling parts and now i'm going inside. Your excellent video has given me the confidence to do so. I'm starting with a safety catch change. I've bought an oversized one in brass for now, all the rest of my bling parts are in polished aluminium/silver/alloy finish. I've done the safety catch in brass because the 'rekord' trigger is in brass to match. This is the first rifle i've ever had. I'm disabled, most times stuck in a wheelchair with serious mobility, movement issue's. This has really lifted my spirits, it's actually made me a better person to be around. I get outside so much more, it's made me happier, healthier, fitter and a lot less depressed and miserable. I chose a Springer rifle for the exercise. Being ambidextrous it works out both side's of my upper body. Also, I didn't realise how many people shoot regularly and the people i've met through shooting have been really good caring, like-minded, nice to know people. I am very happy with my new hobby and with great informative people like yourself. Thankyou again for your fantastic help, i've subscribed to your channel so as to keep learning. Thankyou.
Thank you, I know you made this video years ago, but the principles stays the same. Currently working on a hw80 to run it sub 12 ft lbs & this has helped me a lot., although I've been putting my piston in a cordless drill because I'm lazy 😂
I beg to differ, polishing the internals gets rid of the manufacturing defects and "roughness" making the rifle a lot smoother to cock & shoot with less recoil & lock time making it more consistent as the final part of the video shows Like I said earlier, personal preference, I've done the same on numerous rifles for friends, it works for me, they are happy and I'll continue doing it and getting the same results.
Hey great Info, this explains the ethos behind tuning very well. One comment though, when Polishing the internals of a bore (the internal bore that the air plunger/piston seal rides on) it would be better (but more difficult) to polish so that the micro rings the polishing leaves are annular (ring shaped and going around the round part of the bore, this minimises leakage. If you polish up and down you get micro scratches that are up and down the bore this may allow air to leak past the piston seal negating some of the work you have done. In IC engines you do something similar when honing a bore. You try to get the scratches at 45 degrees to minimise leakage but also hold oil on the sleeve. Subscribed!
Thank you for the video.. I have been working on air rifles for many years. I do not understand people comparing these compression tubes and cylinders to car engines. A car piston cycles 1000s of times a minute. A air rifle is more like a syringe, A rubber stopper in a polished tube, More like a hydraulic cylinder would be a example. And yes of course the sears in the trigger are polished. But never are the contact points lubricated. I feel i am waffling on so thank you for time..
If you polish the sears, it is because you want the action to be smoother, so why not add a bit of lubrication? The only way the sears will fail, is if it's sanded out of shape; a little bit of oil will not change the shape of the sears and therefore will never make it less effective.
Great video, thanks. Really made it clear of how and where to grease. I cheated and popped my piston in a drill to rotate it when polishing. Saved some effort.
Polishing either the outside or inside of the compression tube is a BAD idea. Doing the outside just makes the tube a looser fit in the action (wobble) and polishing the inside leaves no grip for any lubrication. The only part of the piston worth polishing is the guide end, which is fractionally wider than the rest of the piston body and should be the only part of the piston - apart from the seal - that actually contacts the inside of the compression tube.
A highly debated topic & all I have to draw on is car engines which are under much more load & heat,... An engine cylinder is honed but not polished to a mirror finish & in fact, cylinders can suffer a "glazed bore" which means loss of power & a smoky engine & mechanics rectify this by honing the cylinder to roughen it up with a cross hatch effect,... Even performance mechanics don't polish an engine cylinder, they let the lubricant (oil) do it's job.
Hi Josh Inspect the seal and look for any anomalies, splits, nicks etc. for what it costs (around £10) and for piece if mind it could be worth replacing it anyway. Darryl
You only need to remove scratches in the chamber and feather edge the piston so when the piston is inserted it stops sliding down when holding a finger over the transfer hole, the lube needs something to grip onto if it's too polished it won't hold
As I said in the video it’s all about personal preference and of all the rifles I’ve done I’ve not had any complaints and they still remained smooth, consistent and very accurate
Great video mate. What’s annoying is for an expensive ‘precision German engineered’ air rifle, this should already be done by the manufacturer. Burr removal and surface finish are just part of the manufacturing process and it would in reality cost them very little to achieve the finish you are doing by hand.
Why polish the outside of the compression tube, I don`t understand what good that would do. And I wonder, could the inside of the compression tube be polished with a brake honing tool, these are readily avaliable fairly cheap. Do you lubricate the inside of the compression tube, or is it compleatly dry and you only lubricate the piston.
Polishing any bearing surfaces reduces friction and the cocking effort. I did think about a honing tool but decided against it The only thing lubricated is a very thin layer around the piston and piston seal. Any more and it would fly forward under inertia, end up in front of the piston seal and cause dieselling 👍🏻
Hi gordiehunterTV I've just been watching your hw97 tuning vids very interesting and informative I've just bought a new hw97k and it something I'd be interested in having a got at ( following your instructions carefully) the just question why polish the piston body as this doesn't come it contact with anything thus not need to polish it ? I understand the need to polish the cylinder to make it smooth and clean any rough edges of the piston seal Many thanks Phill
It might just be a personal thing but hypothetically speaking if the piston body does actually come into contact with the piston sleeve the smoother it is the better.
@@GeordiehuntersTV I understand that smoother is better I know from your vids on the hw97 tuning you do your own thing which is very impressive and I'm going to do it to my 97 just one more question have you ever short stoked a piston and if so what's your thoughts I'll be using my 97 for target shooting Thx phill
Never tried Phill, to be honest never had/felt the need to. All the 97’s I’ve owned I’ve done this to and couldn’t be beaten on accuracy of the shooter does their part.
@@GeordiehuntersTV No probs I didn't think it would have been something you'd done after watching your tuning vids the techniques you used over the years of tuning clearly work as shown in your chrono results I'll been ordering some pin punches and wet and dry paper and follow your tuning tips Cheers matey for a set of very informative vids and your replies to my questions 👍
I’ve just bought HW97 and the barrel is really pitted and rusty. Any ideas how to sort this out please. Or is there anywhere that does this for you. Thanks
Hi daryl iv watched you videos and decided to strip my hw97kt its all stripped ready for polishing but the piston just pulls straight out of the sleeve with a bit of pulling can I replace the seal or could I do something to seal it better any info would be great thanks atb josh
Cam Dawson●........Thankyou for that great tip. I've just discovered this and it's a fantastic hobby that's really helped with my disability.........The drill thing will really help me out. Thankyou Cam Dawson.
Great vid! Got a quick question about stock screw tightness. I think I over tightened my front stock screws and she grouped about 6 inches at 31 yards. Setting them so that they're barely tight enough to not move on their own seems to yield the most accuracy, under 5p size @ 31 yards. Is this normal? Are there factory settings for HW97K Stock screws? Thanks :)
Sounds about normal to me - my HW57 and 97 also prefer the screws just slightly tighten. I secure them with non-permanent loctite to make sure they stay put. My HW35 on the other hand likes them stock-cracking tight. So my guess is that the system of 26mm systems flexes more then the 30mm systems of HW35/80. The under lever/stock construction of 57/77/97 probably aids to the issue. I went into touch about this with Weihrauch earlier this year, but all I got from that was a "maybe, we can't tell and a we won't tell you" - I bet they don't even have a clue themselves. They just slap everything together and ship it away, if they ship. Still wait for a new barrel from them that I order and paid months ago.
@23:25 you use grease on the sear. At the gunsmithing course I followed, they taught me to never EVER use grease on sears, because it might cause accidental firing. This is something that I can confirm, because I made that mistake once. A tiny bit of gun oil to prevent rust is okay, but never grease the thing. That's my bit of advice as a professional gunsmith. ;-) Otherwise, great vid.
to polish the internals is a pretty bad idea. it can lead to scuffing. the surfaces are treated at the factory as they should be, with proper roughness, for better lubricant retention. every manufacturer does so
GeordiehuntersTV no. this roughness is necessary for normal action, it's not that greedy krauts wanted to save a couple of $. what you did with sand papers is just useless work.
The standard piston is not that well finished. There are high spots and it can rub unevenly. Look at the piston of a rifle thats had 20000 pellets through it, you will see the marking. True that you dont want a mirror finish because as you say, there is nowhere for the grease to stick to, but you can improve the rifle by making the areas that touch smoother and more even.
same reason barrels in motor vehicles are honed with very sallow grooves , the lubrication is retain in the grooves , as people have written , what you are doing is wrong.
Reducing friction on any moving part will help in smoothing out the action and reducing recoil. As I said in the videos it works for me and know it has worked for many others following the videos 👍🏻
Do not use wet and dry paper dry ( use oil a few drops) Dont use a old spring for internals ! Theres is no,need to polish a trigger very dangerous infact all,thatnpolishing does nothing Taking the factory blueing of the inside ofmthe gun tube no no
To be honest I can't see the point of doing all this.! The method is all wrong from an engineering point of view. You use sandpaper to take the rough out but don't clean those parts afterwards?. Then you smear those parts with lubricant that now traps the dust from the sandpaper onto those parts?. and re-assemble?. So now what you have is greased sandpaper sliding up and down the internal workings of your rifle. But if it floats your boat, and your happy doing it, what's the harm. Just keep away from my rifle.
Watch the video again.... Carefully.... This wasn't the whole process.... The parts after polishing with "sandpaper" was actually wet & dry paper & they were thoroughly cleaned before any lubrication was applied. Also I don't touch anyone else's rifles other than friends & my own Darryl
@@GeordiehuntersTV yeah I wonder the same thing. I was like "but whyyyy" for the entire clip. He took something that was turned straight within given tolerances by the manufacturing and then just started to sanding it. Crazy.
Workbench chaos Clean parts put down on filthy iron fillings infested rags and bench Spend hours polishing parts that shouldn't be polished parts that should be scratch up with a screwdriver. Put it all back together OMG. Why not just lube it up with grinding paste and save yourself hours of work. Over 63000 views and not even 600 likes that must tell you something fella
The video wasn’t done for “likes” If you take the time to watch & listen all components were blasted with an airline prior to being lubricated and assembled. Thanks for your comment though 👍🏻
Fantastic informative step by step instructions. Thankyou very much. I too have just bought a brand new Weihrauch HW97KT blackline synthetic. I've put quite a few bling parts and now i'm going inside. Your excellent video has given me the confidence to do so. I'm starting with a safety catch change. I've bought an oversized one in brass for now, all the rest of my bling parts are in polished aluminium/silver/alloy finish. I've done the safety catch in brass because the 'rekord' trigger is in brass to match. This is the first rifle i've ever had. I'm disabled, most times stuck in a wheelchair with serious mobility, movement issue's. This has really lifted my spirits, it's actually made me a better person to be around. I get outside so much more, it's made me happier, healthier, fitter and a lot less depressed and miserable. I chose a Springer rifle for the exercise. Being ambidextrous it works out both side's of my upper body. Also, I didn't realise how many people shoot regularly and the people i've met through shooting have been really good caring, like-minded, nice to know people. I am very happy with my new hobby and with great informative people like yourself. Thankyou again for your fantastic help, i've subscribed to your channel so as to keep learning. Thankyou.
Thank you so much my friend for teaching me how to do this to my HW97KT I couldn't thank you enough buddy.
Thank you, I know you made this video years ago, but the principles stays the same. Currently working on a hw80 to run it sub 12 ft lbs & this has helped me a lot., although I've been putting my piston in a cordless drill because I'm lazy 😂
Not lazy but very efficient.
Cheers
I beg to differ, polishing the internals gets rid of the manufacturing defects and "roughness" making the rifle a lot smoother to cock & shoot with less recoil & lock time making it more consistent as the final part of the video shows
Like I said earlier, personal preference, I've done the same on numerous rifles for friends, it works for me, they are happy and I'll continue doing it and getting the same results.
Friction is the enemy of speed.
Hey great Info, this explains the ethos behind tuning very well. One comment though, when Polishing the internals of a bore (the internal bore that the air plunger/piston seal rides on) it would be better (but more difficult) to polish so that the micro rings the polishing leaves are annular (ring shaped and going around the round part of the bore, this minimises leakage.
If you polish up and down you get micro scratches that are up and down the bore this may allow air to leak past the piston seal negating some of the work you have done.
In IC engines you do something similar when honing a bore. You try to get the scratches at 45 degrees to minimise leakage but also hold oil on the sleeve.
Subscribed!
Thank you for the video.. I have been working on air rifles for many years. I do not understand people comparing these compression tubes and cylinders to car engines. A car piston cycles 1000s of times a minute. A air rifle is more like a syringe, A rubber stopper in a polished tube, More like a hydraulic cylinder would be a example. And yes of course the sears in the trigger are polished. But never are the contact points lubricated. I feel i am waffling on so thank you for time..
If you polish the sears, it is because you want the action to be smoother, so why not add a bit of lubrication? The only way the sears will fail, is if it's sanded out of shape; a little bit of oil will not change the shape of the sears and therefore will never make it less effective.
Thanks for taking the time and trouble to make this series of vids. Great stuff and much appreciated.
Good work ,nice polish and verry good video👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Best regards from German
Great vid, Darryl!!! I appreciate the effort required to film, and then upload, all of that work. Great job and highly appreciated!!! kevin
Cracking vid Darryl, im sure this will help a lot of people who want to home fettle/tune their springers.
Great video, thanks. Really made it clear of how and where to grease. I cheated and popped my piston in a drill to rotate it when polishing. Saved some effort.
An excellent video on the HW97. I own one, but had little idea of how it operates. I have a much better idea now.
Great job on this guide - THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
Polishing either the outside or inside of the compression tube is a BAD idea. Doing the outside just makes the tube a looser fit in the action (wobble) and polishing the inside leaves no grip for any lubrication. The only part of the piston worth polishing is the guide end, which is fractionally wider than the rest of the piston body and should be the only part of the piston - apart from the seal - that actually contacts the inside of the compression tube.
A highly debated topic & all I have to draw on is car engines which are under much more load & heat,... An engine cylinder is honed but not polished to a mirror finish & in fact, cylinders can suffer a "glazed bore" which means loss of power & a smoky engine & mechanics rectify this by honing the cylinder to roughen it up with a cross hatch effect,... Even performance mechanics don't polish an engine cylinder, they let the lubricant (oil) do it's job.
Hi Josh
Inspect the seal and look for any anomalies, splits, nicks etc.
for what it costs (around £10) and for piece if mind it could be worth replacing it anyway.
Darryl
You only need to remove scratches in the chamber and feather edge the piston so when the piston is inserted it stops sliding down when holding a finger over the transfer hole, the lube needs something to grip onto if it's too polished it won't hold
As I said in the video it’s all about personal preference and of all the rifles I’ve done I’ve not had any complaints and they still remained smooth, consistent and very accurate
Thanks for watching and commenting lads!
Hi bud can u do mine I'm down the road at Peterlee
Great video mate. What’s annoying is for an expensive ‘precision German engineered’ air rifle, this should already be done by the manufacturer. Burr removal and surface finish are just part of the manufacturing process and it would in reality cost them very little to achieve the finish you are doing by hand.
Good Job Mate , i get me hw this christmas.
Exellent vid thank you 👍
Why polish the outside of the compression tube, I don`t understand what good that would do. And I wonder, could the inside of the compression tube be polished with a brake honing tool, these are readily avaliable fairly cheap. Do you lubricate the inside of the compression tube, or is it compleatly dry and you only lubricate the piston.
Polishing any bearing surfaces reduces friction and the cocking effort.
I did think about a honing tool but decided against it
The only thing lubricated is a very thin layer around the piston and piston seal. Any more and it would fly forward under inertia, end up in front of the piston seal and cause dieselling 👍🏻
Does the bluing inside the cylinder protect against rust, if so would it be wise to blue it again after polishing?
@@tordamsleth7460 the light coat of lubricant should stop any rust forming so no need to reblue unless for aesthetic purposes
another good video :) well done liked
Polishing piston and cylinder. And doing it by hands. Yeah, good idea, man.
Hi gordiehunterTV I've just been watching your hw97 tuning vids very interesting and informative I've just bought a new hw97k and it something I'd be interested in having a got at ( following your instructions carefully) the just question why polish the piston body as this doesn't come it contact with anything thus not need to polish it ? I understand the need to polish the cylinder to make it smooth and clean any rough edges of the piston seal
Many thanks Phill
It might just be a personal thing but hypothetically speaking if the piston body does actually come into contact with the piston sleeve the smoother it is the better.
@@GeordiehuntersTV
I understand that smoother is better I know from your vids on the hw97 tuning you do your own thing which is very impressive and I'm going to do it to my 97 just one more question have you ever short stoked a piston and if so what's your thoughts I'll be using my 97 for target shooting
Thx phill
Never tried Phill, to be honest never had/felt the need to. All the 97’s I’ve owned I’ve done this to and couldn’t be beaten on accuracy of the shooter does their part.
@@GeordiehuntersTV
No probs I didn't think it would have been something you'd done after watching your tuning vids the techniques you used over the years of tuning clearly work as shown in your chrono results I'll been ordering some pin punches and wet and dry paper and follow your tuning tips
Cheers matey for a set of very informative vids and your replies to my questions 👍
Phillip Ward no problem. Thanks for watching and good luck with it. Any problems just give me a shout. 👍🏻
great tutorial !! thanks
If you want to tune the rifle just make a gide that fits tight in the spring is all you got to do
I’ve just bought HW97 and the barrel is really pitted and rusty. Any ideas how to sort this out please. Or is there anywhere that does this for you. Thanks
Only way to really do it properly is to rub it down and take it back to bare, clean metal and then reblue it
Hi daryl iv watched you videos and decided to strip my hw97kt its all stripped ready for polishing but the piston just pulls straight out of the sleeve with a bit of pulling can I replace the seal or could I do something to seal it better any info would be great thanks atb josh
i got a really nice polish on my piston by putting the latch end in a drill
Cam Dawson●........Thankyou for that great tip. I've just discovered this and it's a fantastic hobby that's really helped with my disability.........The drill thing will really help me out. Thankyou Cam Dawson.
Hi , may polishing the piston cause it become rusted after some time ?
no, it has a thin coating of grease applied therefore will deter moisture
Great vid!
Got a quick question about stock screw tightness. I think I over tightened my front stock screws and she grouped about 6 inches at 31 yards.
Setting them so that they're barely tight enough to not move on their own seems to yield the most accuracy, under 5p size @ 31 yards. Is this normal?
Are there factory settings for HW97K Stock screws? Thanks :)
To be honest I don't know mate, I normally just tighten them by hand till they're right then give them a "nip"
Sounds about normal to me - my HW57 and 97 also prefer the screws just slightly tighten. I secure them with non-permanent loctite to make sure they stay put. My HW35 on the other hand likes them stock-cracking tight. So my guess is that the system of 26mm systems flexes more then the 30mm systems of HW35/80. The under lever/stock construction of 57/77/97 probably aids to the issue.
I went into touch about this with Weihrauch earlier this year, but all I got from that was a "maybe, we can't tell and a we won't tell you" - I bet they don't even have a clue themselves. They just slap everything together and ship it away, if they ship. Still wait for a new barrel from them that I order and paid months ago.
I got rid and bought a PCP, fed up of constantly checking/adjusting a springer. Great rifles though.
olly killick n
I thought silicone grease was for plastic or nylon surfaces. Metal is for money ??
what are you doing?? your putting the piston in and not cleaning out the dirt and metal out you can even see on the seal its all scratched
The parts will polish them self is al about a tight Gide in the spring .,
Sorry I meant moly grease
@23:25 you use grease on the sear. At the gunsmithing course I followed, they taught me to never EVER use grease on sears, because it might cause accidental firing. This is something that I can confirm, because I made that mistake once. A tiny bit of gun oil to prevent rust is okay, but never grease the thing. That's my bit of advice as a professional gunsmith. ;-)
Otherwise, great vid.
to polish the internals is a pretty bad idea. it can lead to scuffing. the surfaces are treated at the factory as they should be, with proper roughness, for better lubricant retention. every manufacturer does so
Personal preference,
the manufacturers don't spend the time doing so as it would be too much of a time consuming process for the amount of work needed
GeordiehuntersTV no. this roughness is necessary for normal action, it's not that greedy krauts wanted to save a couple of $.
what you did with sand papers is just useless work.
The standard piston is not that well finished. There are high spots and it can rub unevenly. Look at the piston of a rifle thats had 20000 pellets through it, you will see the marking. True that you dont want a mirror finish because as you say, there is nowhere for the grease to stick to, but you can improve the rifle by making the areas that touch smoother and more even.
same reason barrels in motor vehicles are honed with very sallow grooves , the lubrication is retain in the grooves , as people have written , what you are doing is wrong.
Whats garn on here like. We normally mack em an you tack em.
Omg polishing spring ends what ever next
Reducing friction on any moving part will help in smoothing out the action and reducing recoil. As I said in the videos it works for me and know it has worked for many others following the videos 👍🏻
Do not use wet and dry paper dry ( use oil a few drops)
Dont use a old spring for internals !
Theres is no,need to polish a trigger very dangerous infact all,thatnpolishing does nothing
Taking the factory blueing of the inside ofmthe gun tube no no
That's not tuning, that's just finishing off what weihrauch couldn't be bothered to do...
wont be a perfect seal after you not cleaning it you just scored the plast & inside
Per lucidare il pistone usando il trapano lo attacchi e lo fai girare 👍
To be honest I can't see the point of doing all this.! The method is all wrong from an engineering point of view. You use sandpaper to take the rough out but don't clean those parts afterwards?. Then you smear those parts with lubricant that now traps the dust from the sandpaper onto those parts?. and re-assemble?. So now what you have is greased sandpaper sliding up and down the internal workings of your rifle.
But if it floats your boat, and your happy doing it, what's the harm. Just keep away from my rifle.
Watch the video again.... Carefully....
This wasn't the whole process.... The parts after polishing with "sandpaper" was actually wet & dry paper & they were thoroughly cleaned before any lubrication was applied.
Also I don't touch anyone else's rifles other than friends & my own
Darryl
He clearly said in the video to degrease it after polishing, but didnt show it.
@@GeordiehuntersTV yeah I wonder the same thing. I was like "but whyyyy" for the entire clip. He took something that was turned straight within given tolerances by the manufacturing and then just started to sanding it. Crazy.
Silicon grease on sears, wouldn't give you my gun. rest is all bro science.
Workbench chaos Clean parts put down on filthy iron fillings infested rags and bench Spend hours polishing parts that shouldn't be polished parts that should be scratch up with a screwdriver. Put it all back together OMG. Why not just lube it up with grinding paste and save yourself hours of work. Over 63000 views and not even 600 likes that must tell you something fella
The video wasn’t done for “likes”
If you take the time to watch & listen all components were blasted with an airline prior to being lubricated and assembled.
Thanks for your comment though 👍🏻
and again your useing grease with dirty hands