Dana/Spicer Model 18 Transfer case: How To Rebuild
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มี.ค. 2015
- If your thinking of rebuilding your Dana/Spicer Model 18 Transfer case, here is a good place to start! with very few components and a simple construction, this transfer case is an enjoyable rebuild.
dual lip oil seal
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for additional specs and information visit
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for Novak's teardown and rebuild instructions, see
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and be sure to pick up parts here
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these guys can help you on any of your restoration or conversion need in a very professional manner.
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** This video is for your personal viewing, must not duplicate or sell. this video is for insight on a rebuild, follow procedures at your own risk and hold ownership for your own work** - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I don't know quite how to explain it but you did a better job than 99.9% of these TH-camrs I can't say enough good
Excellent video. A trick when measuring the end play is to mount the indicator on the TC.. I used the flat of the oil pan.. that way any movement of the case on the workbench etc won't skew the readings.
You didn’t miss a detail. Thank you!
Brother What a good video so clear and straight forward to understand keep up the good work from Australia.
Great job with your step by step assy procedure. It saved me a lot of time and frustration.
Thanks for the video…
Very helpful!
One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen! Fantastic job! Thank you.
I just re-use the shim packs it came with and I’ve never had a problem with it
That's the best video yet, great job!
Very good to see this prior to removing T Case for rework. Great Job, Thanks.
Outstanding guide for us neophyte shade tree mechanics; thank you!
that was great mate now i know how to rebuild the transfer case keep up the good work
About to tackle my T90/D18 rebuild. Thanks for the video.
Great how to video. Detailed info is spot on. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Excellent video, great help. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
A very concise and easy to understand instruction video. Thanks for all your work on this Model 18 "how-to". 👍
Thank you so much for this wealth of information. I am preparing to rebuild a '65 Jeep CJ5, and I'm sure this instruction will be invaluable to me.
Thanks for your super video, I followed your step by step process and now have a perfectly rebuilt Dana 18.
its a great feeling isn't it!
Super Video, vielen Dank für die wertvolle Arbeit, Gruss aus der Schweiz
Great job, I completed my D18 for my Scout 80. test drove, works great! Thanks for a great video.
Thanks for your very illustrative video
very helpful, thanks for the walk through.
Great video. Just had mine rebuilt and leaks all over. Going to have to take it apart again!
Excellent video.... I did a video on the tear down of a Dana 300 transfer case in preparation for a rebuild. My intention was to do a two part video on the complete rebuild, but I blew out a rotator cuff right after making part 1 and didnt get to do part 2. I may put a link there to this video since these cases are so similar. Once again, excellent job on the video and the transfer case.
nice thanks, iam working in my transfer case exellent video . I from Argentina
Painting the transfer case (and the transmission too) light gray like you have done is an excellent way of using the lighter color for detecting oil leaks. Black paint doesn't allow this for obvious reasons. The transfer case is often covered in a 1/8" thick combination of lube and trail dust from leaking over the years. It leaks simply due to seal failure from multiple cold-to-hot cycles, wear and tear and the factory seals and sealing methods were fairly mediocre for the time.
Awesome work!
Nice thanks, I am working on the eralier version C18 with th loose roller bearing pins for the intermediate shaft.
Great Video! Very informative!
Great quality video ....many thanks.
Great presentation.
Great tutorial - wish you had one for the Dana 20
Very thorough how to video.
Just a heads up if your installing the parking break backing plate you have to install the intermediate shaft and gear before installing the output shaft cover and backing plate.
I was doing the victory dance and realized what happened lol. Hope this helps. I appreciate the hard work and time you put into this video.
excellent video instruction
Very useful video! Thank you!
What a great help this is!
Great how to video :-) you made it look simple nice job of explaining your rebuild.
thank you!
Thanks this was great!
Excellent video!!
OK!!! muy bueno!!! bien explicado!!! gracias
Well done video man
I’m inspired to rebuild my own D18
Thank you Sir, you save me a lot!
Instead of a piece of wood against the front bearing cap I install all 5 cap screws and turn them evenly all the way around and it draws it in evenly and seats it perfectly
Great Video!
Thanks for the great instruction. As good as the FSM is, it does not cover the removal of the output shaft bushing. Your method works well. And the FSM just says assembly is reverse of disassembly, which is lame in my opinion. You've provided excellent video of the assembly process, especially the output shaft end play adjustment.
Good informative vid- thank you
Thanks for the great instruction!!!
you're welcome Paul. and thank you for watching.
Well done
Awesome. Thank you.
This is the one to watch if you value your SCOUT !!! Don.
Be careful with the copper spray on the shims on the rear bearing cap as it will throw your endplay off I would re check endplay on shaft after doing that
Thank you :)
Hwllo
Very interesting channel colleagues, bravo 👏
Thank you for this video! I am about to tackle this rebuild on my '66 CJ5. Have you ever rebuilt the T86 transmission? I have been looking for information on that fun one as well. Thanks again!
Shnitzlhaus, Thanks for the excellent tutorial - the detail you have included is really good. However, just like "Al Sa", I'm having one hell of a time getting the T-case "cap front bearing" separated. There is a circlip (so far hidden) that then allows the shaft to be driven out of the gears. The famous Rick Stivers covers this removal but in my case, the bearing is very tight on the shaft. I am making a wedge shaped "pickle fork-like" tool that will hopefully work, but I'm tempted to use a little micro torch to heat up the bearing's inner race. Heating would be tricky because of the tight space involved. Did you develop your own method fro bearing removal or did yours come off easily? Cheers from Vancouver, Pavel.
nice man
I really missed your videos man
hopefully these kinds of videos are worth the wait. will try to keep frequency but quality is always in mind and that hampers timing sometimes. thank you for watching and support :)
ShnitzlHaus Hey man we all have lives jobs and other events keeping use busy, your videos are great quality and they are some of the most detailed I have ever seen on youtube thanks for showing us.
Very interesting, you know your parts!
hey thanks Craig, I say the same for you! ...... possibly a thing or two, but always room for learning more on my end!
Nice detailed instructions. I have to replace the yoke seal on the rear speedo housing. Never did it before. Thinking simple to do but any help on that so I don’t screw it up.
Thankyou
I’ve never had good results from spray welding,it usually chips off
Dam dude! How did you get the case so clean? Take it in to be hot tanked?
I have a question. I am trying to check the and play. I have bolted both sides and made sure to start with a tick shim pack but I am not getting any play ? What am I doing wrong ?
When I installed the intermetate gear if is very tight. I can't spin it by hand. Do I need to take some material of the thrust washers?
Goodone
Can I just remove the front output shaft and replace the bearing without removing the whole transfer case from the vehicle?
this is very helpful but to help you at when you talk to us directly instead of checking if you're in frame look into the lense
Hello, can you delete low gear in the transfer case and only have high gear?
How deep was your bushing into the output shaft? The depth to the shoulder of your install tool?
Sorry tool has been modified since then.
If you have not removed your original old bushing you could measure the depth of that but I would guess you would have thought about doing so.
I could see if I have another shaft to measure.
Don’t know if possibly Ricks guide online or the manual has any additional info.
Thanks for your video. I'm thinking of rebuilding my dana 20. Couple of questions: I thought the needle bearings were singular, I guess the replacements are caged? And the shaft, how'd you get the Orings installed without marking them up? Thanks, Chris
Needle bearings; the Dana 20 uses individuals non caged. For the shaft it’s very difficult to get the o-rings in unscathed. I think if you used the o-ring with some gasket maker it would work well but you need to be mindful of not spreading that everywhere inside. I did not take this approach but I sealed the ends of the shaft afterwards. The end with the locking tab you could even try a small engine piston ring compressor to collapse the o ring but that end isn’t really an issue as sealer is easy to use on the last 100 thou or so of the shaft, the opposite end is more troublesome so you can try putting gasket sealer in the bore of the transfer case housing again last 100 thou towards the outside, this way the shaft pushes the excess outwards ;) Not a big deal in any way about the oring the major factor here is having the quality Novak idler shafts.
@@ShnitzlHaus . Thanks for your reply. Yeah, I think i'll order the kit sometime next month. Looks like the hardest part is putting those needle bearings in... time consuming, and lots of grease.. Chris
Where did you vet specs for the output yokes?
Thanks for your great videos!!!!! helped me a lot!!!!
I am in a process of rebuilding my dana spicer 18 but am stuck with disassembling it.... i have an issue removing "cap, front bearing" and "Output Clutch Shaft". Is there a step i need to take to go about removing these items? I would totally appreciate if you show the disassembly part somehow as well.... Thank you so much man!!!
+Al Sa , I'm having the same problem.
your trying to remove the "cap,front bearing" from the rest of the housing? if so did you remove all the springs and poppet balls from the housing? you should have a bolt head on each side where the shifter rails run into the housing. then you need to move one of the shifter 4wd? then the entire housing will slide off.
I'm explaining the problem badly. There is a shaft with shims and a cap at one end. The bearing at the other end of that shaft needs to be moved forward so you can access a hidden clip. I haven't been able (so far) to move that bearing. I've used a homemade wedge to attempt to move the bearing away from the gear beside it with no luck... plan to carefully heat the bearing inner race... Any suggestions? I want to reuse the bearing, not destroy it. Thanks, Pavel in Vancouver.
Thanks for details. I successfully did the job! Thanks!
Thanks a bunch! Job done!
what was the total cost to rebuild your transfer case. Thanks good info
It's been 6 years ago this is my old account I finally road tested my rebuild t18 transmission and dana -18 transfer case wasn't for this video I would never try to do anything of this thank you
How much different than the Dana 20
Like your vid's...question...why do you look at the camera screen instead of the camera LENS...might give a more personal look to the viewer if you look into the camera lens....kinda looks like your watching yourself.......I say this as a friend. Gooday friend.
feed back is always appreciated. this is something I noticed also, many reasons I could list. I will pay extra attention on my next video to be sure it does not happen. thank you and for watching!